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Talk of the Town - Neon Signs

Emerging in the late half of the 20th century, neon signs were a display of post-war prosperity and have been a defining visual element of Hong Kong. Various fields of industries and companies; restaurants, hotels, nightclubs, pawn shops, foreign companies and even mah-jong parlours all battling for attention with the brightest and biggest neon signs in the narrow streets, shaping one of the most iconic and distinctive scenes in the world. Awardnominated and globally acclaimed films like Transformers, Blade Runner and ChungKing Express were all inspired by the futuristic yet retro and nostalgic aesthetics that the neon glow creates. Though, this unique embodiment of the city’s versatility and cultural heritage is dying out due to various reasons and interest groups and NGOs are actively trying to preserve it.

THE GLOWING ARTEFACT OF HONG KONG’S VISUAL CULTURE: NEON SIGNS

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The beginning: A symbol for rapid growth and prosperity

There is no doubt about the level of influence in art and films and worldwide recognition that neon signs have gained. On top of all the vibrant colours and glowing beauty, they possess the city’s cultural and historical significance; like an artefact that has been through the rich evolution of Hong Kong and witnesses the city as it becomes one of the busiest and diverse cities in the world.

During the industrialisation of Hong Kong in the 60’s and 70’s, people were becoming wealthier and living conditions were improving. This rapid emergence of middle-class citizens led to the increase of consumption power and affordability of luxury items. The economic boom created a fierce competition in the commercial market, hence, the need for an effective method of advertising - attention grabbing with over-the-top signs in crowded streets and on skyscrapers visible to everyone across the harbour.

Under British rule, there were not many restrictions and regulations for erecting over-hanging signs because the government not only did not want to interfere but also to facilitate commercial activities, especially with global brands flushing the market. Also, given the state of technological advancement during that era, physical banners and signs were still prominent and most effective in the space of advertisement. This fight for attention turned into a competition for the biggest and brightest sign, composing the beautiful yet chaotic picture of glowing shapes and calligraphy overwhelming the narrow streets between old tenement buildings albeit concerns for safety risks and structural integrity. The glamourness of neon signs, from this point on, started becoming a symbol of status and reputation of the brand.

During its primetime, the record holder for the biggest neon sign according to the Guinness World Record was once a sign for Marlboro in the 80’s, which was later overtaken by another sign in Hong Kong in 1999 - a giant dragon spanning 299 metres.

“Nathan Road, Hong Kong” by GothPhil is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

The inevitable downfall

Though, it is exactly because of the rapid development and modernisation of the city, neon signs are eventually facing their inevitable demise. According to CityLife - a local tourism magazine - up to 90% of the main neon lights of the city have disappeared during the last 20 years. One of the many culprits would be regulations. As part of the Signboard Control System introduced by the Building Department, it was found that most signs constructed during the “golden era” do not conform to legal requirements and safety standards. This led to a mass take-down operation aimed at removing unnecessary overhead hazards on the streets of Hong Kong. Since 2006, about 3,000 “unauthorised” signs have been removed every year.^1

Regulations had not been historically strict, though. When neon signs were first introduced into Hong Kong in the 20’s, by-laws were made with the goal of not disrupting natural beauty. Despite multiple proposals for taxing sign owners (which were dropped under fierce objections and difficulty in enforcement) and temporary bans on operating under difficult weather conditions (because of a fire accident), regulations were never imposed to manage safety hazards. It was not until the 2000’s when public concerns were raised and emergencies were reported that authorities started enforcing assessment and removal programs - one being Kwun Tong Renovation program, where many signs resided. They are put in place to eliminate not only falling risks due to lack of maintenance, but also the dangerous process of installation and repair. As a result, unlawful signboards, especially ones that overhang and extend from walls of buildings, were ordered to be taken down. In 2009 alone, more than 5,000 signs were removed. Shop owners were not complaining, though.

Perhaps as with every other innovation, neon signs were destined to be superseded by a newer innovation: LED lights. Emerged in the 90’s, the diode technology is dominantly superior compared to the old-fashioned glass-bending craft which makes it irresistible to upgrade. LEDs beat neon tubes not only in energy usage, which makes it more cost effective, but also in durability - as they are not as brittle as glass which is more prone to breaking and takes a considerable amount of time and money to fix. This deters shop owners and corporations from continuing to use neon signs to save costs, further accelerating the decline of the industry. Even if it weren’t for the all-doing LEDs, environmental concerns were raised.

According to Reuters, a public opinion poll in 2008 on energy conservation by the Council for Sustainable Development found 71 percent of over 80,000 people backed turning off neon lights in the small hours to conserve energy. Apart from the large consumption of energy, the light pollution by the blinding neon signs is just as detrimental. The city’s environmental protection department received some 50 complaints about light pollution in 2008, up from the 40 cases received in 2007, indicating a growing nuisance for the public.

The preceding downfall of the industry is worrying, with craftsmen reporting more than 100 pipe-bending working engineers during the peak down to more than 20 in 1995. Just 10 years later, there are only 7 people left. With production almost stopping, will neon signs head to extinction very soon? Luckily, the glowing artefact is finally getting its appreciation and attention it deserves; ironically only after when it is most needed.

“Light” at the end of the tunnel

In “light” of the seemingly imminent extinction (pun intended), preservation has gone into full effect initiated by interest groups and communities in recent years. Being a by-product of the booming era of Hong Kong, neon signs have become a tangible heritage for people to reminisce about the “good ol’ days”. They are beyond an iconography for the shops but for the cultural era they are in as well. Preserving them allows us to appreciate our past visual culture and the result of crosscultural dynamics; or they are simply just pleasant to look at.

“It is not until you have lost it then you realise how much it means to you” - a quote that is particularly fitting. When locals are used to seeing and living with neon signs for a long time, they wouldn’t be as much aware of the beauty of the signs as foreigners. Thankfully, designers and artists have been pushing the revival of the neon culture with indoor installations. The art inspiration has, in turn, created a new group of audience, which helps maintain demand. People are starting to admire neon signs as an art form as we embrace it as part of our culture.

Maybe we can no longer roam around the once intoxicatingly illuminated streets, but with growing awareness and interest, a dying artform and industry is kept alive by organisations like Neonsigns.hk, as a featured section in M+ museum and HK Neon Heritage Group. Iconic signs like Sammy’s Kitchen (Neon Cow) and Kai Kee mah-jong parlour (Neon Chicken) were on the verge of going to waste, but owners were generous enough to donate them to M+, assigning them a new visual identity.

People might argue the neon signs are as good as trash if preservation means taking them away from where they belong and displaying them within the confined space of a museum. As doing so also means taking away the very values that they bring and the visual culture they represent. The neon signs serve and set an identity for the local community on top of commercial purposes. For example, they function as a landmark for people to navigate within the local community. For each sign that gets removed, the city just lost a bit of its character and completeness. Therefore, it seems the only way of giving a new life/ meaning to them would be to provide a place for display as it not only creates an opportunity to educate and inspire, but also keep them physically safe.

Hong Kong’s neon lights may not be shining as bright as they once were, and the city’s renowned spectacular packed night glow may be forever gone; but their legacy continues to live on and the flaunty yet elegant; familiar yet mysterious floating signs will stay glowing in a special place in everyone’s hearts.

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