Scottish Winter Courses
2011 WINTER SEASON
ICE FACTOR WINTER MOUNTAINEERING COURSES SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
CONTENTS
Location ......................................................................................................................... 3 Course Ethos ................................................................................................................. 4 Which Course? .............................................................................................................. 5 Dates and Prices ........................................................................................................... 5 Introductory Winter Mountaineering .............................................................................. 6 Winter Mountaineering ................................................................................................... 7 Private Guiding & Instruction ......................................................................................... 8 Instructor & Guides ........................................................................................................ 9 Accommodation and Travel Arrangements ................................................................. 10 Fitness ......................................................................................................................... 11 Insurance, Bookings, Payment and Pre-Course Admin .............................................. 11
Ice Factor National Ice Climbing Centre - www.ice-factor.co.uk, info@ice-factor.co.uk
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ICE FACTOR WINTER MOUNTAINEERING COURSES SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
The Outdoor Capital of the UK
The Mamore Mountains around Loch Leven. The Ice Factor is sandwiched between Ben Nevis and the fabulous Glencoe Mountains.
The Ice Factor We based the Ice Factor in the epi-centre of British Mountaineering. The centre is surrounded by mountains - there are more mountains over 3,000ft in this immediate area than every national park in England and Wales put together. This means, choice, variety, conditions and difficulty to suit groups of every ability. The Best Range of Mountains in Britain. The mountains of Ben Nevis, Aonach Mor, Glencoe, the Mamores, The Grey Corries, Glen Orchy Hills and Creag Meagaidh are all within easy striking distance of the Ice Factor. This unrivaled choice ensures
irrespective of weather conditions that there is always an option for the day. For this reason Lochaber is the main centre of operation for every commercial guiding company throughout the winter.
providing a safe, structured and fun introduction to the joy of Scottish Winter Mountaineering.
It’s fun - you’re on holiday! We know that your time is precious. There is a lot to cram into a few short days - so whilst safety Expert Instruction Our instructors and guides, live, dominates our thinking and practices, work and play in the West Highlands. we keep focussed on the fun aspect. Over the past decade we’ve amassed Sauna and Steam rooms at the considerable knowledge of the end of each day, hot chocolate in ‘hidden gems’ and built up an front of the fire and regular enviable reputation for delivering programme of events in The Bothan outstanding mountaineering courses. bar. Perhaps this is why, year after Ice Factor have probably taught year, our clients come back to Ice more people to ice climb than any Factor to develop new skills, meet organization on the planet and have new friends and to continue their become a main provider of winter journey of development in the mountaineering skills courses, mountains.
Ice Factor National Ice Climbing Centre - www.ice-factor.co.uk, info@ice-factor.co.uk
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ICE FACTOR WINTER MOUNTAINEERING COURSES SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
WINTER 2011 Learn..Practice..Lead.. The core objective of an Ice Factor Winter Course, is to safely impart the knowledge and core skills to facilitate the safe use of the mountains in winter. There is a lot to take in, whichever level of course you are on, Our focus is on quickly teaching core skills, allowing you to consolidate those new skills under direct
supervision and ultimately to have you lead the day. Courses will always begin with a refresher or introduction to the basics of safe travel on snowy terrain. Starting with the correct equipment, we will demonstrate how to use the boot as a tool, safe use of Ice Axe and how to fit and use crampons. Moving onto choosing your route/terrain. We’ll explore avalanche awareness and anticipation. Snow Pack analysis and tools used to determine p a c k stability. From this we’ll m o v e
Sron na Lairig, GLencoe
mountaineering. For some that will be on the many Munro’s {mountains over 3,000ft} that surround the centre, for others it will be classic ridges. For the advanced it will be the classic winter climbs. Irrespective of your course, you will come away with new skills, new experiences and memories that will last a life time. During every course, you will be given the option of trying a session on the Ice Climbing Wall. Your instructor will coach you through a detailed session to get you familiar with belaying, knots, crampon and ice axe technique, all on the Wo r l d ’s B i g g e s t i c e climbing facility.
onto basic rope skills and how to protect on steep ground. Mountain Weather and navigation- always a big issue in winter! - will be covered in detail, allowing you to use the various re s o u rc e s t o o p t i m u m effect. Courses usually finish with the client’s choice of route or mountain. The aim is each day to operate above the snow line. Give you the knowledge and empowerment to make sound mountaineering judgement calls and ultimately to open up the Snow Bollard - Glencoe joys of winter
Ice Factor National Ice Climbing Centre - www.ice-factor.co.uk, info@ice-factor.co.uk
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ICE FACTOR WINTER MOUNTAINEERING COURSES SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
WHICH COURSE?
Each day will build upon and consolidate prior experience, culminating in you choosing the route/ mountain.
Choosing the correct course is vital to get the most out of your Scottish Winter Experience. We strongly suggest you speak with one of our guides or instructors to get the a p p ro p r i a t e c o u r s e booked. They will be able to discuss your past experience, goals and objectives and make the most a p p r o p r i a t e recommendation.
Set Realistic Goals Every course will begin with core winter mountaineering. Without those skills you will be unable to progress through the more advanced courses - you need a bedrock of core knowledge
Safety is Paramount Having established the level you currently operate at, the guide or instructor can work out which course will give you the best return and outline the optimal way of achieving your aims and objectives. The course is about you, but the safety of all will drive every decision and recommendation
Stunning view looking out from Stob Coire Nan Lochan, over the Aonach Eagach Ridge, beyond the Mamores to Ben Nevis {obvious whaleback on left} Aonach Mor. More mountains over 3,000ft in this single area than all of England & Wales!
Dates & Prices 2011 WEEK
INTRODUCTORY WINTER MOUNTAINEERING - 1:6 RATIO WINTER MOUNTAINEERING - 1:4/2
INTRODUCTORY LONG WEEKEND
1
Sun 16-Fri 21 Jan
Fri 21 - Mon 24 Jan
2
Sun 23 Jan-Fri 28 Jan
Fri 28 Jan - Mon 31st Jan
3
Sun 30 Jan-Fri 4 Feb
Fri 4 - Mon 7 Feb
4
Sun 6 - Fri 11 Feb
Fri 11 - Mon 14 Feb
5
Sun 13 - Fri 18 Feb
Fri 18 - Mon 21 Feb
6
Sun 20 - Fri 25 Feb
Fri 25 - Mon 28th Feb
7
Sun 27 Feb - Fri 5 Mar
Fri 4 - Mon 7 Mar
8
Sun 6 - Fri 11 Mar
Fri 11 - Mon 14 Mar
9
Sun 13 - Fri 18 Mar
Fri 18 - Mon 21 Mar
10
Sun 20 - Fri 25 Mar
Fri 25 - Mon 28 Mar
COURSE
COURSE PRICE
Introductory Winter Mountaineering
£485
Winter Mountaineering
£586
Private Guiding {course only}
£185 p/d + £20 p/p
Introductory Long Weekend
£285
Ice Factor National Ice Climbing Centre - www.ice-factor.co.uk, info@ice-factor.co.uk
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ICE FACTOR WINTER MOUNTAINEERING COURSES SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
Introductory Winter Mountaineering Sunday to Friday - 5 Full Days of Instruction Ratio 1:6
Fantastic inversions on the summit of Ben Nevis, fun filled days learning ice axe arrest.
Core Skills The course covers: Winter Safety Equipment for mountaineers Navigation skills Appraisal of avalanche risk Refresher of any prior skills Boots & Crampon technique Ice Axe Arrests Security on Steep Ground Rope Work Belay Construction Use of Snow Anchors Emergency Snow Shelters
Your instructor will aim to introduce you to a variety of mountain areas in order to train, practice and consolidate a range of core winter skills. These will include moving on steep ground, use of ice axe and crampons, using the rope to safeguard the party on steep ground, choice and construction of snow and rock anchors. The objective is to quickly impart the knowledge and allow you to consolidate and practice in the mountain environment.
Introductory Winter Mountaineering This course is designed to address the needs of those with no previous experience of winter mountaineering or for those who want a refresher on the core skills needed to walk or climb safely in the Scottish Winter Mountains. Excellent technical preparation for overseas trekking expeds.
Day 2 Your introduction to the Sottish Winter Mountains! We will focus on the use of crampons and ice axe, moving on steep ground. Practice of preventing slips and falls then Ice Axe Arrests. During the day we will look at practical assessment of avalanche risk and avoidance techniques.
Throughout the focus is on you the client. Where at all possible we try to accommodate the wishes of the team to include specific mountains - Buachaille Etive Mor/Beag, Circuit of the Mamore Mountains. The Grey Corries, Aonach Mor. Tell us what’s on your wish list! Day 3 - 6 Mountaineering Days. If the weather ‘manks out’ The objective over the next few you will be given the option of days is to get all participants an indoor session on the rock moving comfortably and safely over a variety of mountain and ice walls, where you will be terrain. provided with a structured Throughout your instructor will introduction to climbing. These be focussed on your safety and typically involve belaying, Outline Programme enjoyment, providing climbing knots, rope work and Day 1. The course beings opportunity for practicing and at 6pm on Sunday evening consolidating the core skills you techniques for steep ice climbing on the World’s Biggest with a course briefing. This is have learned. Indoor Ice Climbing Wall. an essential element of the Typical ascents over past Each evening we will aim course to provide the years have included: to return to the Ice Factor for a information for the week ahead. Ben Nevis via No. 4 Gully debrief, equipment check, An instructor will discuss or the Carn Mor Dearg Arete drying room. Students can use equipment for the following day, Stob Coire nan Lochan via the sauna/steam room, relax issue hire kit, after dinner there the Zig Zags or Broad Gully with a drink in front of the wood will be a short presentation on Ascent of Bidean Nam burning stove in our climber’s the mountain environment in Bian - highest peak in Argyll Bothan Bar and socialise. winter.
Ice Factor National Ice Climbing Centre - www.ice-factor.co.uk, info@ice-factor.co.uk
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ICE FACTOR WINTER MOUNTAINEERING COURSES SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
Winter Mountaineering
Sunday to Friday - 5 Full Days of Instruction - Max Ratio 1:4, 1:2 above Grade II Winter Mountaineering Aimed at those with extensive prior experience of the Scottish Winter Mountains. You must have completed an introductory level course or accumulated considerable experience to attend Winter Mountaineering. The focus is on a quick refresher of core skills before changing to climbing routes of Grade I, II and III.
The Ice Factor Winter Mountaineering Course is aimed at those who want to focus more on the technical and climbing aspects of winter mountaineering, specifically advancing through the Scottish Winter Grades. Subject to weather and prevailing conditions we will aim to take you through a variety of Scottish Winter Climbs, from easy angled snow gully routes, to mixed - rock/ice sections and ridges.
Day 2 A seminal day to consolidate and refresh the core skills. We will focus on the use of crampons and ice axe, moving on steep ground. Practice of preventing slips and falls then Ice Axe Arrests. During the day we will look at practical assessment of avalanche risk and avoidance techniques. Day 3 Introduction to winter mountaineering - Grade I/II climbing
Day 4-6 Winter Climbing on routes of Grade I/II and III. The choice of route will be dictated Outline Programme Day 1. The course beings by prevailing conditions on the day. Ice Factor instructors live/ at 6pm on Sunday evening work and play in the area - so with a course briefing. This is rest assured we’ll find an essential element of the something in ‘nik’. Typical routes over past course to provide the years have included: information for the week ahead. Left Hand Twin, Aonach An instructor will discuss Mor Scottish Grade III equipment for the following day, Dorsal Arete, Bidian nam issue hire kit, after dinner there Bian, Glencoe II/III will be a short presentation on Traverse of Carn Mor the mountain environment in Dearg Arete to Ben Nevis - I winter.
Curved Ridge, Buachaille Etive Mor - II/III NC Gully - II - Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glencoe. Ledge Route Ben Nevis, II Where at all possible, your instructor will seek to accommodate your wish list of routes/hills. Prevailing conditions will dominate the selection. If the weather ‘manks out’ you will be given the option of an indoor session on the rock and ice walls, where we can focus on developing your grade on very steep, overhanging and mixed ice routes. These sessions always add value and help enormously for the outdoor climber. Each evening we will aim to return to the Ice Factor for a debrief, equipment check, drying room. Students can use the sauna/steam room, relax with a drink in front of the wood burning stove in our climber’s Bothan Bar and socialise.
Ice Factor National Ice Climbing Centre - www.ice-factor.co.uk, info@ice-factor.co.uk
Core Skills The course covers: Winter Safety Advanced Navigation Avalanche Avoidance Route Selection Use of Guide Books Belay construction Rock, Ice & Snow anchors Moving together - roped Short Roping Pitching Winter Climbing Gear
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ICE FACTOR WINTER MOUNTAINEERING COURSES SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
Private Guiding & Instruction
Green Gully IV/3, Waterfall Gully IV, Orion Direct V, 5 ***
Core Skills The course covers: Winter Safety Equipment for mountaineers Navigation skills Appraisal of avalanche risk Refresher of any prior skills Boots & Crampon technique Ice Axe Arrests Security on Steep Ground Rope Work Belay Construction Use of Snow Anchors Emergency Snow Shelters
Many students opt for the weekend refresher course, followed by 2 days of private guiding. This gives you a thorough refresher/ understanding of the essential safety issues, whilst the remainder is focussed utterly on your personal wish list. Private guiding with the Ice Factor allows you to pick and chose the days/dates and course objectives. For may, this is simply extending the Long Weekend Introductory Courses, for others its a single day with a single objective - e.g Traverse of the Aonach Eagach Ridge - II/III. With the burgeoning growth in winter climbing, we increasingly get requests from university and Mountaineering Clubs, looking for a specific set of objectives at a date to suit this may be training new club members, before joining a wider group on a challenging traverse, or a very specific itinerary.
The first step is to contact the Ice Factor and ask for a call back from one our experienced winter guides. They will discuss in detail your preferences and expectations and provide a course structure and itinerary to suit your specific needs.
Private Guiding & Instruction We understand many climbers don’t have the time to commit to a full course, equally there are those who finish a refresher course and want to get their teeth into more challenging ground. Private Guiding gives you the flexibility to add days, work around your diary and focus purely on your requirements. assessment of avalanche risk and avoidance techniques.
Day 3+ Subject to weather and prevailing conditions, your choice! Is there a route that you have always wanted to bag? A ridge that you’ve always fancied tackling, a steep ice route that Typical Programme you want some extra comfort Day 1. The course beings on. The choice is yours, the at 6pm on Friday evening with programme is yours. a course briefing. This is an We don’t forget that days essential element of the course off are precious and whilst the to provide the information for focus must always be on safety the week ahead. An instructor and skills transfer, the fun and will discuss equipment for the social aspect are important too. following day, issue hire kit, Many of our clients have come after dinner there will be a short year after year, and made many presentation on the mountain new friends as a result of an Ice environment in winter. Factor course. Day 2 Your introduction to the Each evening we will aim Sottish Winter Mountains! We to return to the Ice Factor for a will focus on the use of debrief, equipment check, crampons and ice axe, moving drying room. Students can use on steep ground. Practice of the sauna/steam room, relax preventing slips and falls then Ice Axe Arrests. During the day with a drink in front of the wood we will look at practical burning stove in our climber’s Bothan Bar and socialise.
Ice Factor National Ice Climbing Centre - www.ice-factor.co.uk, info@ice-factor.co.uk
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ICE FACTOR WINTER MOUNTAINEERING COURSES SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
Our Instructors
Ice Factor Instructors Every Ice Factor instructor is a passionate climber. Some are outstanding on rock, some on ice and snow, but the common passion is love of the Scottish Mountains. Some are gnarly and weather beaten! With decades of mountaineering expertise gathered in locations from the Canadian Rockies, European Alps, High Tatra Mountains, Chinese Himalaya, Norwegian Ice, Arctic and Antarctic, Afghanistan to Mongolia. Others still flushed with youthful exuberance are cutting their teeth on the great Scottish Game whilst progressing through their NGB awards from Mountain Leader towards Mountaineering Instructor. Our resident MIC’s will select the most appropriate instructor{s} for your course - blending the right expertise, with the skills required for your specific group, to ensure your course is safe, professional and fun! Ice Factor National Ice Climbing Centre - www.ice-factor.co.uk, info@ice-factor.co.uk
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ICE FACTOR WINTER MOUNTAINEERING COURSES SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
Details
Course student briefing at the Ice Factor. Relax at the end of each day in our sauna & steam rooms, unwind with a gourmet coffee or chat in the climber’s bar with wood-burning stove
Accommodation You will be accommodated in the 4 star climber’s bunkhouse behind the Ice Factor. All rooms are en-suite, with TV room, drying room and common rooms. Sauna & Steam rooms are available in the centre for your use, throughout the course. Your course includes full board full cooked highland breakfast, lunch, hot chocolate off the hill, and 3 course meal each evening - including arrival and departure evenings. Dinner is served at 7pm each evening and consists of a hearty three-course meal plus coffee. Centre staff will provide a regular programme of evening lectures, mountain skills movies, discussion or just an informal chat over a drink in front of the wood burning stove attendance of the first evening lecture is mandatory. The social element is an important part of your course, designed to give you the very best of
highland hospitality - look out for the live music! The village of Kinlochleven is well served with bank, post office and CoOp. For those students on courses during February there is a nightly itinerary for the Fort William Mountain Film Festival. Travel Arrangements Course members should make their own travel arrangements to and from the Ice Factor, Kinlochleven. There is a regular bus and train service from Glasgow and Inverness to Glencoe - please contact the centre staff if you are arriving by bus and we will arrange to collect you from Glencoe. There are a range of low cost carriers flying into Glasgow, Edinburgh and Inverness from across the UK. Bus, Train and Flight schedules will be included with your joining instructions.
Ice Factor National Ice Climbing Centre - www.ice-factor.co.uk, info@ice-factor.co.uk
Equipment and Gear Required A detailed equipment list is sent to you with your booking confirmation. We will provide all group climbing and specialist equipment - ropes and hardware. As part of your course you will be provided with crampons, helmets and ice axe free of charge. We encourage all students to bring their own boots. If you do not have appropriate B2 winter boots you can either hire them from us -£5 per day/£25 per week or benefit from special client discount in the Ice Factor Shop. Clients on Winter Mountaineering/Private Guiding courses will generally require B3 fully stiffened boots. All Ice Factor Clients qualify for a 15% discount for purchases from the shop. The shop carries all the key brands including Haglofs, Scarpa, Grivel, Montane and Rab.
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ICE FACTOR WINTER MOUNTAINEERING COURSES SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
Details Fitness Before attending a Scottish Winter Course, you should ensure you are fit enough to take part in the programme. Winter Mountaineering is extremely arduous. Simply put, the fitter you are, the more you are likely to enjoy and get the full benefit of your course. Daily we will be carrying large packs into the hills, routinely for 7+ hours. A typical Ice Factor Winter Course will include 15-18km of walking and an average of 1,000m in cumulative ascent. Consider the effects of doing this repeatedly over several days. Build up some residual fitness before your course, regular cycling, walking and swimming are all excellent training. Prior to arrival you should be comfortable with walking 15km, carrying 15kg of weight. The more prepared you are, the more you will get out of your course.
Insurance Please read the Booking Conditions carefully, complete, sign, date and post back to Ice Factor Winter Courses. There will be a ÂŁ150 non-refundable deposit required for any course. We always try to accommodate clients if there is an un-foreseen circumstance, but would always advise you to take out appropriate personal accident and cancellation insurance. Payment by Debit or Credit card is the safest and best way to book. Please note, your course must be paid for in full a min of 30 days before the course is due to commence. After receiving payment we will send you a full course programme, joining instructions and detailed personal equipment list. We will ask you to complete a detailed personal experience questionnaire to determine your level of expertise. Please complete with
your current hillwalking, mountaineering and climbing experience, this will allow us to ensure you are aligned with the correct course/instructor. And Finally.... Training and research, booking time away and the costs of a Winter Mountaineering Course require major commitment. You can be assured that your commitment to us will be reciprocated - you will finish you course empowered, enthused, with a raft of new skills, memories and hopefully new friends to last a life time. We look forward to giving you the warmest of welcomes! Contact Ice Factor on: Tel: +44(0) 1855 831 100 Fax: +44(0) 1855 831 762 Email: info@ice-factor.co.uk Web: www.ice-factor.co.uk
Ice Factor Outdoor Equipment Shop - Client get a 15% discount, Inside Bothan Bar and Bistro, Ice Factor Entrance. Ice Factor National Ice Climbing Centre - www.ice-factor.co.uk, info@ice-factor.co.uk
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