Groovy Geiri Smart

Tiny, ruby red dices of raw meat on a spread of skyr, garnished with wild berries and wood garlic. The beef tartar melts in my mouth, harmonising with the chilled Pinot Noir rosé. In the open kitchen, chefs are preparing the next course: fried fillet of cod with potato purée, pickled onions, cauliflower gratin and glaze of Jarl cheese. I’m in for a treat. I take in the surroundings, the black-and-white tiled floor, blue velvet chairs and mustard velvet drapes – very retro, yet modern at the same time.

Located on Hverfisgata in 101 Reykjavik, Geiri Smart is the hotel restaurant of Canopy by Hilton Reykjavik City Centre. “It’s a Canopy prototype,” says Alba E. H. Hough, the hotel’s lead food and drink enthusiast. “And if I may say so myself – we nailed it!” The Canopy concept is designed for the modern traveller. Each hotel is inspired by its surrounding environment. The design is characterised by open spaces, creativity and warmth. Guests can expect special treats, such as locally made delicacies. The hotel’s staff is not only friendly, but also knowledgeable about local happenings.

People are curious about the name of the restaurant. It comes from the song “Sirkus Geira Smart” by legendary Icelandic ’70s band Spilverk thjodanna. “This was all done in agreement with them and they have small-scale gigs here from time to time,” says Alba. References to the song, band and the decade can be found throughout the restaurant, from the menu to the decor. Hjartagardurinn, a popular hangout for graffiti and skater kids, which used to be right outside the hotel, also features in the design. “The square is still there, tastefully redone – we offered street food there this summer,” says Alba. The hotel collaborated with some street artists from the neighbourhood on remaking their artwork inside the hotel, including the glitter drop waterfall by Theresa Himmer, which wowed many a pedestrian. “These things matter,” stresses Alba.

In the bistro, tourists can try an Icelandic taster menu, including hardfiskur (dried fish) and hangikjot (smoked lamb). The main restaurant offers brunches, lunches and dinners – including a two-course theatre menu for those with tickets to the National Theatre across the street. Uniquely, the dishes are paired with wines from cold-climate regions only; wine pairing is one of Alba’s passions. The bar has a daily happy hour, currently celebrating “Pink October” with pink cocktails and rosé. “The Canopy concept is about reaching locals as much as tourists,” says Alba. Hence the attention to detail foreigners may find curious but locals love. “Travellers want the local experience.”

For the love of local

At Canopy by Hilton Reykjavík City Centre, Geiri Smart Restaurant serves local fun and funky flavours.

TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir PHOTOS: Geiri Smart Restaurant

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04 01 Beef tartar with skyr, wild berries and wood garlic.

02 The interior is very retro, yet modern at the same time.

03 Ambition is the name of the game.

04 Celebrating “Pink October”.

05 The restaurant’s design was inspired by legendary ’70s band Spilverk thjodanna.

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