7 minute read
Creativity and recreation in East Iceland
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New adventures in the East
East Iceland may be a long way from the capital, but that’s a large part of its charm. Check out what’s new and noteworthy in the region.
TEXT: Carolyn Bain PHOTOS: Arni Saeberg, Shutterstock and courtesy of the proprietors
TRAVEL East Iceland
I’m a big cheerleader for East Iceland, my favourite part of the country. It sometimes gets overlooked, especially by Ring Road tourists speeding through the region on their way between the southeast’s glacial wonders and Myvatn’s geothermal action. As a result, the East has to work harder to pique interest; there’s often a high degree of creativity on show here. With the chance to do a little pepping for the region, I set off to review the newest items to add to the ever-expanding catalogue of why people should visit. Topping the list for anyone looking for a taste of the stellar local produce is Nielsen (page 12), a new restaurant helmed by a bigname chef.
Vok Baths, Urridavatn
The headline summer opening was Vok Baths, located 5 km (3 miles) outside Egilsstadir on the shores of lake Urridavatn. Here, East Iceland scored its own designer geothermal spot to rival new hot-water bathing destinations such as GeoSea in North Iceland and Krauma in West Iceland, which have both made a splash in recent years. Compared with the rest of the country, East Iceland is not well endowed with hot water; the natural hot springs bubbling away deep under Urridavatn are a prize, and channelling them for bathing seems a recipe for success. Vok’s opening has been highly anticipated, and the design (from Basalt Architects, the award-winning firm behind many of Iceland’s finest pools and geothermal baths) serves the lake location to great effect. Prime attention rightfully focuses on the two floating pools set in the lake waters, reached by a short walkway from the main
complex. On the shore are two more hot pools, an outdoor pool bar, steam baths and a cold tunnel equipped with mist showers, for those seeking a refreshing cold-water jolt.
The complex’s raison d’etre is celebrated inside the smart facilities, too: an infusion bar allows visitors to make their own herbal tea, selecting herbs grown at nearby Vallanes farm and brewed using the certified drinkable hot-spring water of the lake. The onsite café serves beer specially crafted by Egilsstadir microbrewer Austri Brugghus; these brews also make use of the spring water and locally grown herbs and barley.
The Wilderness Center, Nordurdalur
In a remote valley southwest of lake Lagarfljot, the Wilderness Center continues to add to its collection of unique and cleverly crafted attractions. First, a bathhouse complex built with recycled timber and decorated with yesteryear mementoes, in keeping with the farm’s rustic style. Inside the building are bathrooms and showers, a sauna and a relaxation area with small fireplace and hammocks; outside is a stone-lined pool fed by hot spring water and enjoying glorious valley views.
Showing similar levels of theatrical ingenuity and cosiness is the Wilderness Center’s new “stargazing station”, housed in an unassuming reconstructed barn where the show-stopping feature is a retractable roof. When skies are clear and dark, visitors can sit on sheepskins by the fire, sip hot cocoa and have constellations – or dancing northern lights – revealed to them as the roof opens. Miles from any sources of light pollution, the dark skies can reveal their treasures with the help of a modern telescope and enthusiastic stargazing and storytelling guides.
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Studlagil canyon, Jokuldalur
If you’ve been anywhere near Instagram this summer, you’ve probably seen images of a spectacular canyon lined with crazy basalt column formations, with an intensely bluegreen river running through it. This is Studlagil, a canyon traversed by the Jokulsa a Dal river. It was once a gushing glacial river, but its flow (and colour) has been dramatically altered by the construction of the Karahnjukar dam in the eastern highlands. Now it’s one of East Iceland’s most photogenic spots, getting its turn in the spotlight and a steady flow of visitors despite its remote location.
A short but steep marked trail (around 260 m / 853 ft) has been developed to guide visitors to two scenic viewpoints on the west side of the canyon edge, and the path is accessed from the farm named Grund, where there’s a small car park and signage to let you know you’re in the right spot. From Egilsstadir, follow Route 1 northwest for 53 km (32 miles), then turn south on gravel road number 923 and drive another 19 km (11 miles) to reach Grund.
The path is steep – there is rope in
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a few places to aid your scrambling – and the canyon edge is sheer, so extra caution is recommended, especially in slippery weather. But it’s unquestionably worth it.
Fjord Bikes, Borgarfjordur eystri
Borgarfjordur eystri has been establishing a well-earned reputation for first-class hiking trails in its surrounding mountains, so it was probably just a matter of time before someone spied the potential for mountain biking in those same peaks. Enter Arni Magnusson, founder of a newly created company called Fjord Bikes, primed to get you onto two wheels and out among nature. Arni hails from a family with strong ties to the fjord, and he and his new American wife are building a house in the village. For his tourism degree, he got to grips with the ups and downs of global mountain-bike trails, and he is now applying his knowledge to Borgarfjordur. Visitors can simply hire bikes and helmets from him and tap into local advice (bikes are located at the community-run village store), or they can organise a guided village ride or more in-depth mountain-trail exploration. Arni is super-flexible and passionate; the cruisy evening ride I took with him was a sensory idyll of golden sunlight, birdsong, mountain panoramas, and fields studded with lupine.
01 Everyone’s new favourite canyon, basaltlined Studlagil. Photo: Shutterstock. 02 The biggest opening in the East for 2019,
Vok Baths. Photo: Vok Baths. 03 Soak in the Wilderness Center’s new hot pools. Photo: The Wilderness Center. 04 A retractable roof is the headliner at the
Wilderness Center’s stargazing station.
Photo: The Wilderness Center. 05 The much-loved Sirkus bar finds a new home in Seydisfjordur. Photo: Arni
Saeberg. 06 Beer and pizza: a perfect combination at
Askur Taproom and Pizzeria. Photo: Arni
Saeberg.
Sirkus, Seydisfjordur
Sirkus was a legendary Reykjavik bar, a hotbed of mayhem, creativity and community until its closure in 2007. Sigga, the bar’s owner, had the foresight to save elements of the bar’s facade and decor before demolition, and after a decade in storage these Sirkus souvenirs can again see the light of day. The Sirkus puffin signage lives on out front, and palm-tree artwork from the bar’s original facade now adorns some of the interior walls. The DJ station is original, as are many of the chairs, and the bar’s vibe is eclectic and welcoming.
The location of the bar’s new incarnation seems a logical one: Seydisfjordur has built a reputation for creativity thanks to great festivals like LungA and a strong community of artists. Behind the bar on my recent visit was Philippe, who also worked in the original Reykjavik location. I asked about future plans for the freshly opened venue – whether it plans to open all year, for example, and to serve food eventually – and the answers are a little vague. This seems perfectly apt: “Sirkus has always been a shapeshifter”, Philippe says. “This version will be the same.”
TRAVEL East Iceland
07 Borgarfjordur eystri beckons mountain bikers.
Photo: Fjord Bikes.
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Askur Taproom, Egilsstadir
Microbreweries are all the rage in Iceland, it seems. They’re springing up in small towns around the country, and East Iceland is no exception (see a great example at Beljandi Brugghus in tiny Breiddalsvik). Egilsstadir’s brewery is Austri Brugghus, and its home base is the excellent Askur Taproom, taking the local nightlife by storm (especially because options were super-slim prior to the taproom’s opening).
There are six taps allowing you to sample widely from the Austri range, from Muli (oatmeal stout) to Skessa (a double IPA infused with locally grown wasabi). Curious beer-lovers can arrange brewery tours via the website.
A calendar of events keeps the locals returning – quiz nights, live music, DJs and more are advertised on Askur’s Facebook page. Next door is the Askur Pizzeria, a simple, stylish space pumping out a menu of 12-inch pizzas that range from standard (ham and pineapple) to unexpected (wild goose and red-onion jam).
GETTING THERE:
Reykjavik Borgarfjordur
Seydisfjordur Jokuldalur Egilsstadir
Nordurdalur
Air Iceland Connect flies daily to Egilsstadir in only 50 minutes. From there, the drive to Seydisfjordur takes 30 minutes and to Borgarfjordur eystri roughly one hour.
