4 minute read
Faroese festivities
The Faroe Islands are among countries with the smallest populations in the world, yet I’ve never seen as many people in the streets. It’s midnight on 29 July, the peak of Olavsoka − the national festival − and it seems that all of the islands’ 50,000 inhabitants have gathered
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in the centre of the capital Torshavn to celebrate. There are quite a few bystanders as well, such as myself, easily distinguishable by their casual attire. The natives are proudly wearing their national costumes.
Having just witnessed a crowd of hundreds – or thousands – of people singing together, song after song in near perfect harmony (and awkwardly trying to hum along), it’s now time for Ormurin langi (“The Long Serpent”) – all 85 stanzas of it. A bystander no more, my Faroese sister-in-law puts her right arm on top of my left. I quickly grab my husband before I lose him in the crowd, and we join the chain dance, a local tradition which goes back to medieval times.
Glymur dansur i holl, dans slaid ring! Gladir rida noregs menn til hildarting.
Dance resounds in the hall; dance in a ring! Gladly ride Norway’s men to Hildr’s Thing.
Stanza by stanza, the leader of the long and growing procession recites the old folk ballad about the fall of Norse Viking King Olaf Tryggvason (announcing into his mic that if he pauses, it’s because somebody offered him schnapps). Arm in arm, we chant along as loudly as we can. Two steps to the left and one to the right, we try not to step on anyone’s toes, as we snake our way through the town centre. The serpent is long, but so is the night, and it’s just about to start. Die hard Faroese repeat Ormurin langi until sunrise. Dance resounds in the hall.
Day breaks on the emerald islands, gleaming in a rare ray of sunshine. Striking landscapes often hidden behind a veil of fog, the Faroes may seem like the mythical island Avalon of the Arthurian legend. With a surface area of only 1,399 km2 (540 sq mi) divided between 18 islands, the country is subject to a subpolar oceanic climate. The wet weather creates optimal grazing conditions for the many free-roaming sheep (far in Norse), after which the islands are named – and fog. As the fog lifts, grassy mountains, wondrous waterfalls, sea-filled gorges and unrivalled ocean views are revealed. In slumbering seaside villages and trendy Torshavn, local culture thrives. Having overcome centuries of hardship, the people are proud to have preserved their heritage – and happy to share it with visitors.
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01 The crowd at Olavsoka in the centre of Torshavn around midnight. Photo: Olavur Frederiksen.
02 View of Mykines island from the village of Gasadalur. Photo: Christoffer Collin.
03 Old grass-roofed house in the village of Saksun. Photo: Christoffer Collin.
04 The village of Eidi. Photo: Christoffer Collin.
Connecting the dots
There’s always something happening at Air Iceland Connect. Here’s a brief roundup of the most newsworthy events of the past few months.
TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir
Titanic Belfast. PHOTO: Chris Hill Hverarond, Namaskard. PHOTO: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson Mikael Mikiki. PHOTO: Ragnar Axelsson
Bring it on, Belfast!
On 1 June, Air Iceland Connect launched flights to Northern Ireland’s capital in collaboration with Icelandair, with a full year-round service three times a week, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. The flight from Belfast to Keflavik will provide easy connections with Icelandair’s wide network of destinations in the US and Canada. This is Air Iceland Connect’s second destination in Great Britain; the route to Aberdeen, Scotland, was launched in March 2016, with three scheduled flights a week, year-round.
Northwards bound
If you’re eager to explore Iceland’s North, there’s no need to travel through Reykjavik. Starting last winter, Air Iceland Connect offers direct domestic flights between Keflavik International Airport (KEF) and Akureyri (AEY), North Iceland, in connection to international flights via Keflavik. Akureyri is a popular destination, but it’s also a great base for further exploration of the region. Flights between KEF and AEY are operated all year round, up to six times a week during the winter and two times a week during the summer.
Chequered friendship
Eleven members of Icelandic chess club Hrokurinn travelled to Nuuk in early June to organise the Air Iceland Connect Chess Tournament in Greenland’s capital. The winner was young Mikael Mikiki, who scored 6.5 points out of 7. In addition to the trophy, Mikael was invited to Iceland to chess camp. Since the club’s first trip to Greenland in 2003, its members have visited the country 60 times to share their love of the game with Greenlandic youth. Air Iceland Connect has been the initiative’s main sponsor from the start.
Fast facts
about Air Iceland Connect
5
planes in Air Iceland Connect’s fleet
240
employees
4
international airports
17
destinations
8
destinations in Iceland
99%
reliability of scheduled flights at Egilsstadir Airport
400,000
passengers go through Reykjavik Airport annually