Icelandair Stopover magazine - spring 2018 by Icelandair

Welcome Aboard I Spring 2018

ICELANDAIRSTOPOVER #MyStopover

JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY

Enjoy a Spring Stopover in Iceland

FOLLOWING YOUR BLISS

VIKING PLAYGROUND

FEELING FABULOUS Icelandair Stopover

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E A R LY B I R D C AT C H E S After her time in Iceland, Naomi arrives early at the airport so she can enjoy her last hours there before continuing her journey.

GIVE YOUR SELF MORE TIME TO SHOP

W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S

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Arrive early at Keflavík Airport and we will greet you with open arms. Check in up to 2 ½ hours before your flight so you can enjoy your last moments in Iceland. We offer unlimited free Wi-Fi, many charging stations and a range of shops and restaurants, so you can embrace the last drops of Icelandic taste and feel — and of course Tax and Duty Free.

MORE TIME FOR SHOPPING To remember her time in Iceland, she brings back home unique souvenirs that she bought at the airport.

Icelandair Stopover / 1

LOOK INSIDE From our CEO

Iceland 101

What to Do this Spring

SPRING 2018 I PUBLISHED BY ICELANDAIR

Iceland Writers Retreat

Hot Off the Press

Small Nation, Big Teams

“Crazy Commentator” Strikes Again

Dreams of a New Life in a New Land

Travel Blog: Seattle to London Via Iceland

Saga Shop Kitchen

Icelandair @work: Something’s Brewing

The Icelandair Route Network

Our Fleet

Icelandair Experience

In-Flight Entertainment

Services On Board

Devices and Wi-Fi

Safety First

Customs Forms

Europe’s Tallest Bird Cliff

For the Fun of Food-Making

Hot Spring Hopping

Preparing for the World Cup in Russia

Tales of the Unexpected

My Town: The Wild Westfjords

Glimpses of a Glacial Lagoon

Reykjavík Culture Inside Out

#MyStopover: Hunting the Northern Lights

Children’s Corner: Visiting the Westman Islands

Our Top Stopover Picks

Tribute to Jóhann Jóhannsson

Icelandair on Instagram

COVER IMAGE: Riders at the foot of Vestrahorn mountain in southeast Iceland. Photo by Marino Thorlacius. COPY EDITOR: Sarah Dearne CONTRIBUTING WRITERS: Anthony Adeane, Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir, Sigríður Ásta Árnadóttir, Carolyn Bain, Sarah Dearne, Bob Ecker, Vala Hafstað, Björn Halldórsson, Jonas Moody, Karin Murray-Bergquist, Einar Lövdahl, Lisa Gail Shannen, Frank Wiedemeier

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In the Tree’s Shadow

EDITOR: Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir (editor@icelandair.is)

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR: Heidi Warner

Rediscovering the Joy of Flying

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: Anthony Adeane, Jack Anstey, Siggi Anton, Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir, Carolyn Bain, Víðir Björnsson, Fabian Burghardt, Bob Ecker, Roman Gerasymenko, Jónatan Grétarsson, Geir Guðsteinsson, Benjamin Hardman, Kristinn Ingvarsson, Ásta Kristjánsdóttir, Baldur Kristjáns, Piviso, Rhombie Sandoval, Lesley Leslie-Spinks, Þröstur S. Valgeirsson, Frank Wiedemeier, Steingrímur Jón Þórðarson, Brynjar Snær Þrastarson ADVERTISING: icelandair.us/advertise-en DESIGN: Ágústa S. Þórðardóttir / Icelandic Ad Agency PRINTING: Oddi

Visit our stores: Skólavörðustígur 7, 12 & 16 and Kringlan, Reykjavík. Hafnarstræti, Akureyri. Haukadalur. Geysir.com

FROM OUR CEO

EXCITEMENT IN THE AIR Dear Passenger, Exciting times are ahead. On June 16, our national men’s football team will play its opening game in the World Cup— against Argentina in Moscow. Making it to the World Cup is a major achievement for a small nation such as ours and now every Icelander is waiting with bated breath for the games to begin. Loyal supporters have bought tickets for Iceland’s first three games and taken advantage of Icelandair’s “express flights” straight to Moscow for the game against Argentina; Volgograd, where Iceland will play Nigeria on June 22; and Rostov, where we will take on Croatia on June 26. As excitement builds, we ponder on our team’s ability from various angles; read more on pages 30, 32 and 34. We at Icelandair have plenty of reasons to feel excited. In 2013 we placed an order for 16 new Boeing 737 MAX 8 and MAX 9 aircraft, and the first MAX 8 has

just arrived! We named it Jökulsárlón for our beloved glacial lagoon in southeast Iceland, where tourists flock to watch seals swim among the icebergs. The aircraft was designed to save fuel—hence it’s more environmentally friendly than older models—and enhance the experience of flying. Read more about Jökulsárlón on this page and on pages 12 and 84, and for a photo series about the actual glacial lagoon, flip over to page 52. There’s more to discover in the pages of this magazine— consider it a taster of all the exciting activities possible on your Iceland stopover. On page 22, Anthony Adeane reveals his favorite “secret” swimming pools, while on page 40, Carolyn Bain shares with you her most unexpected travel experiences, like having authentic Moroccan food in Iceland’s northernmost town and sleeping in an old-fashioned dormitory in the distant East. In our Children’s Corner on page 76, a puffin

Björgólfur Jóhannsson Icelandair President and CEO

Making it to the World Cup is a major achievement for a small nation such as ours and now every Icelander is waiting with bated breath for the games to begin.

takes her friends on an adventure to Vestmannaeyjar, the Westman Islands, and on page 44, seasoned traveler Bob Ecker writes about his trip to the islands. The remote and remarkable Westfjords are also featured in this issue. On page 48, the band members of Between Mountains talk about their home between Westfjordian mountains, and on page 64, photographer Frank Wiedemeier documents his hunt for the northern lights in the region. We have plenty more travel tips for you in and outside of Reykjavík. Take a look at the event calendar on page 10, our top stopover picks on page 80 and all the articles in between. Don’t forget the inspiring films on our in-flight entertainment system. Sit back, relax and enjoy the flight, and feel how the excitement builds up as the plane touches down. Góða ferð! I Have a nice trip.

FLOATING ICEBERG IN THE SKY In April 2018, Icelandair welcomed Jökulsárlón, the airline’s first new aircraft of the Boeing 737 MAX series. Joining a fleet of 30 aircraft all named after volcanoes or glaciers, Jökulsárlón, a 737 MAX 8, shares a name with the famous glacial lagoon in southeast Iceland, where chunks of ice break off Vatnajökull—Europe’s largest glacier—and flow to the sea. Sailing among the icebergs is a dreamy experience, and so is flying Jökulsárlón. Passenger

ABOUT ICELANDIC LETTERS 4 / Editorial

comfort was the main objective when designing the interior and as on the airline’s other aircraft, it has in-flight entertainment systems and plenty of legroom. Gate-to-gate Wi-Fi will be available later in 2018. The MAX 8 is 129 ft, 8 in (39.5 m) long with seating for 160.

Great emphasis was placed on fuel efficiency; fuel savings are up to 20% per seat compared to other narrow-body airplanes. The MAX 8 and 9 have larger, more efficient engines than previous models and enhancements to the airframe help reduce aerodynamic drag. The

The articles in this magazine use Icelandic letters and accents. In Icelandic, you can use accents on all the vowels: á, é, í, ó, ö, ú, ý. Each accent makes the pronunciation of the

vowel different. We also have an additional three letters: Æ (sometimes written as “ae”) is pronounced like the “i” in tide. Ð (sometimes written as “d”) is pronounced like the “th” in

operating cost is 8% lower per seat than comparable aircraft. The MAXs are, in fact, the most cost-efficient single-aisle aircraft on the market. They also have a greater flight range than previous 737 models and will help to increase Icelandair’s flexibility and efficiency. Fifteen other aircraft of the 737 MAX series are set to arrive by 2021. Read more on pages 12, 84 and online: icelandair.com/ about/our-fleet/jokulsarlon

there. Þ (sometimes written as “th”) is pronounced like the “th” in think. Kærar þakkir fyrir að lesa blaðið! I Thank you for reading!

of things to Do in húsavík 2017

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ICELAND 101 Welcome to Iceland! Looking for the basics on Iceland before your Icelandair stopover? Here are a few essentials about our North Atlantic paradise. GRÍMSEY

SUÐUREYRI ÍSAFJÖRÐUR DALVÍK

FLATEY

REYÐARFJÖRÐUR

THIS IS HIGHWAY 1

ARNARSTAPI

We call it the Ring Road because, as you can see, it is shaped like a ring around the whole island. Many people like to follow this route when they want to see a lot of the country, but don’t forget to venture off on other roads so you can explore areas like the Westfjords, Snæfellsnes Peninsula and Reykjanes.

The national language is Icelandic, and while you’ll have no problem getting by using English, we’re grateful anytime a visitor tries to use góðan daginn (good day) or takk (thank you). You are going to land at Keflavík Airport. When you first step outside, take a deep breath and inhale our wonderful clean air. Welcome to the North Atlantic. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, winter temperatures are milder here than you’ll find in New York or Toronto. When the thermometer creeps above 68°F (20°C) in summer, Icelanders bask in the sun at cafés and beaches. You probably already know that Iceland is a volcanic land. We also have many glaciers and countless other natural wonders. Remember to stay safe on your travels and check out safetravel.is before you go. There’s no need to buy bottled water when you’re here. What comes out of the tap is pure, clean, tasty—and free. You may notice the hot water has a slightly sulfurous smell, 6 / Icelandair Stopover

HOFSJÖKULL LANGJÖKULL

VATNAJÖKULL

AKRANES

REYKJAVÍK REYKJANESBÆR

HEKLA

but it’s plentiful; we even use it to heat our homes! It does not get as cold in winter as you might think, but nevertheless our weather can be quite unpredictable. Bring lots of clothes to wear in layers—even in summer— and a good quality windproof jacket. Most importantly, don’t forget your bathing suit! Visiting our thermal pools is a highlight of most trips (though you can always rent a suit if you forgot yours). There aren’t a lot of trees in Iceland. It can be windy here. Remember to hold your car door when you open it. Trust us; your rental company will thank you. Electricity in Iceland is 220 volts, the same as in Europe. If you bring electronics from the US or Canada, you’ll need an adapter for both plugs and current. Iceland is a wired society, and you’ll find Internet hotspots almost everywhere. Many of you will be visiting our country to enjoy our unique nature, of which we are very proud. Please remember, though, that

Iceland’s delicate landscapes can take decades, or even centuries, to recover from misuse. Please don’t collect stones, tread on or pick up sensitive moss, or drive off road— even in what may appear to be barren, sandy territory. Speaking of our landscapes, you’ll notice that there aren’t many signs, fences or other barriers around our natural wonders. We trust your common sense. So when you see or hear a warning, please heed it: Do not step over ropes that are blocking an area. Hot springs can be dangerously hot. Rocks near waterfalls can be slippery. And the sea can be deceptively calm. Follow local advice. The name of Iceland’s capital, Reykjavík, means “smoky bay.” About two-thirds of our population of 330,000 live in the Capital Region. Photographers love Iceland for its incredible, ever-changing light. It never gets fully dark between about mid-May and early August, while in December a muted light shines over the island for a few short hours each day.

Spend the night at a snow-powered hotel In Iceland, all electricity is generated from renewable sources; falling water, the heat of the earth and the force of the wind. Welcome to the land of renewable energy. landsvirkjun.com/visitus

Icelandair Stopover / 7

SUNSET AT EUROPE’S LARGEST BIRD CLIFF Located at the southwestern tip of the Westfjords peninsula, Látrabjarg is Iceland’s westernmost point. Some say the bird cliff is also Europe’s westernmost point—only the Azores lie further to the west. In any case, Látrabjarg is the continent’s largest bird cliff. Millions of seabirds nest in the 8-mi (14-km) long and 1,446-ft (441-m) tall cliff in the summer, including puffins, fulmars, kittiwakes, gannets, guillemots and storm-petrels. Out of reach for foxes, the birds are quite tame and can easily be photographed. Látrabjarg is one of the Westfjords’ most frequently-visited destinations; well worth the long drive. The bird cliff’s highest point is easily accessible, offering a spectacular view across Breiðafjörður bay. Be careful not to step too close to the edge—puffin holes make it treacherous.

TEXT BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTO BY BENJAMIN HARDMAN. instagram.com/benjaminhardman @benjaminhardman

COMPILED BY SARAH DEARNE.

HERE

Akureyri n

THERE

Here’s what’s happening on the hippest island in the North Atlantic this spring and early summer. REYKJAVÍK

Reykjavík n Hafnarfjörður n

APRIL 19 TO 22

Hammond Festival Held every year in the picturesque village of Djúpivogur (53 mi / 86 km south of Egilsstaðir), the Hammond Festival brings Icelandic musicians together in celebration of the humble Hammond organ. Whether you stay all four days or just pop in for one concert, this is a prime opportunity to combine Icelandic music with the remote yet beautiful East. hammond.djupivogur.is

with stables all around the country running horse shows and other equine-themed events. May 1 is also Labor Day, so it’s a public holiday, and you may see workers’ protest parades in the larger towns. horsesoficeland.is

AKUREYRI

MAY 1

International Day of the Icelandic Horse With an impressive 5 gaits, 40 color varieties, and 1,000 years of purebreeding, the Icelandic horse has earned a day of its own. On the International Day of the Icelandic Horse, you can meet, ride, and learn all about this sweet-natured creature, 10 / Events

Robert Wilson; and New Worlds, a fusion of literature and music performed by Bill Murray (yes, that one!) and his musical companions. listahatid.is/en

MAY 30 TO JUNE 2

Vaka Folk Arts Festival If your musical curiosity goes beyond the top 40, head up to Akureyri, North Iceland, for the Vaka Folk Arts Festival. Over four fascinating days, you’ll experience everything from haunting medieval ballads, to Finnish kantele music, to Icelandic and Norwegian folk dancing. And don’t miss returning guest Anna Fält, who wowed in 2015 with her enormous voice. thjodlist.is/vakaen

ICELAND / HAFNARFJÖRÐUR

REYKJAVÍK / ICELAND JUNE 16, 22 AND 26

It’s also well worth taking the short bus ride to neighboring Hafnarfjörður, which has smaller crowds and all the more charm. Overlapping with June 17, Hafnarfjörður also hosts the four-day Viking Festival, which recreates a bustling Viking market from the time of the first settlers. 17juni.is/en • fjorukrain.is/en

Photo: Fabian Burghardt.

FIFA World Cup – Public screenings Last year Iceland made history as the smallest nation ever to qualify for the FIFA World Cup. Come June, the entire country will be out in force to cheer on “Our Boys” as they take on Argentina, Nigeria and Croatia in Russia. Come and join us in the Viking clap at public screenings at Ingólfstorg and elsewhere in downtown Reykjavík, and at bars and sports clubs all around the country.

ICELAND

APRIL 17 TO 22

Children’s Culture Festival If you’re traveling with youngsters, it’s always good to keep some kid-centric fun up your sleeve. The Children’s Culture Festival has a busy program of performances and exhibitions, and the under-16 crowd will love getting stuck into hands-on art, theater, circus, and dance workshops. All events are free of charge. childrensculturefestival.is

DJÚPIVOGUR

Djúpivogur n

REYKJAVÍK

Icelandic National Day and the Viking Festival Iceland gained independence on June 17, 1944, and the date has been celebrated as the National Day ever since. Every town hosts their own festivities, but you’ll find the biggest celebrations in downtown Reykjavík, where there’s a massive parade, live music, and various fun activities for the kids.

JUNE 1 TO 17

Reykjavík Arts Festival The biennial Reykjavík Arts Festival is one of Iceland’s biggest arts events, setting aside two-and-a-half weeks to celebrate all things creative. This year’s highlights include EDDA, a theatrical twist on Norse mythology, directed by the iconic

JUNE 14 TO 17

Photo: Lesley Leslie-Spinks.

NO NEED TO WAIT FOR YOUR BAGS if you do what the locals do and pick up some duty free goods in the arrival store before your luggage www.dutyfree.is

THE DUTY FREE ALLOWANCE IS 6 UNITS OF ALCOHOL, ANY WAY YOU LIKE IT Use the duty free allowance calculator on our website, www.dutyfree.is, to determine how to make the best use of your allowance.

FLYING – AND FEELING FABULOUS With new and improved aircraft, new classes and the option of extra leg space, Icelandair wants to make passengers feel as comfortable in the air as in their own living rooms. MAX-ing the Icelandair Experience Close your eyes and imagine that you’re sailing among the icebergs… Sense how smoothly the boat glides through the crystal-clear water. Feel how fresh the air is. Listen to the ice calve from the glacier and fall into the lagoon. As the Icelandic proverb goes: Hugurinn ber þig hálfa leið; “The mind carries you half the way”— Icelandair takes care of the rest. Icelandair is extremely pleased to announce the arrival of Jökulsárlón, the latest addition to its fleet. The brandnew Boeing 737 MAX 8 is named after the famous glacial lagoon in southeast Iceland. The aircraft was designed with passenger comfort in mind and to enhance the experience of flying. Great emphasis was also placed on fuel efficiency, which leads to a lower operation cost and smaller carbon footprint.

12 / Icelandair

In February 2013, Icelandair Group placed an order for 16 Boeing 737 MAX 8 and MAX 9 aircraft, with purchase rights for additional eight. Icelandair’s current fleet comprises 25 Boeing 757-200, one 757-300 and four 767-300. Jökulsárlón is the first of the new 737 MAX series; the remaining 15 aircraft will arrive by 2021. The MAX 8 has seating for 160 passengers, while the longer MAX 9 seats 178. All aircraft will be fitted with all the comforts Icelandair passengers have come to expect, including in-flight entertainment systems, gate-to-gate Wi-Fi access*, and plenty of legroom. When designing the interior of the 737 MAX series, Boeing’s main objective was to improve passenger experience, for example, by following Icelandair’s lead in using special lighting. In Hekla Aurora, green and purple lights recreate the magic of the aurora borealis, while in Vatnajökull, the blue hues take passengers mindtraveling into an ice cave. Flying Icelandair is not just a means for getting from one destination to the next, it’s an experience on its own. We look forward to welcoming you on board Jökulsárlón. *Jökulsárlón will have Wi-Fi later in 2018. Find more information about Jökulsárlón on pages 4 and 84, and for a photo series about the lagoon after which it is named, go to page 52.

COMPILED BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR.

Meeting Your Every Need With five classes, from Economy Light to Saga Premium Flex—each designed to meet the needs of different passengers— travelers now have more options than ever when booking a flight with Icelandair. At the lowest airfare, Economy Light includes one carry-on bag, designed for those who choose to travel light. Economy Standard includes in addition one checked-in bag, perfect for families or leisure travelers going on a longer vacation. Designed for those traveling for business, Economy Flex also includes priority boarding and free Wi-Fi. For leisure travelers who would like to cut the queues and enjoy first-class service, we recommend Saga Premium, including two check-in bags, priority check-in, lounge access, fast track, priority boarding, free meals and drinks, and free Wi-Fi. In Saga Premium Flex, meeting all the needs of business travelers, passengers get all this and more: Two carry-on bags and an unlimited stopover in Iceland without additional airfare. In all other classes, passengers can make a stopover in Iceland for up to seven days without extra airfare, except for Economy Light, where passengers can make a stopover for up to three days. Even More Legroom is yet another novelty, starting in late April, enabling all Economy passengers to buy extra legroom for added comfort. For further information about the new classes, go to page 88.

YOUR NEW MAX HAS ARRIVED

Congratulations to Icelandair for taking delivery of its first 737 MAX. The elevated passenger experience of the 737 MAX will complement Icelandairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strong reputation for exceptional service and reliability. This first delivery marks the continuation of our close partnership with Icelandair, and we look forward to many great years ahead.

boeing.com/commercial Icelandair Stopover / 13

14 / Culture

BY LISA GAIL SHANNEN. PHOTO BY ROMAN GERASYMENKO.

FABULOUS FOOD & FUN This year’s Food & Fun Festival, February 28 to March 4, added lots of new and exciting flavors to Reykjavík’s flourishing culinary landscape, with top international chefs from as far as Argentina and Puerto Rico in attendance. The event, which celebrated its 18th edition this year, continually boosts Iceland’s reputation as a food destination and has been a lively addition to the annual calendar of events in the city since its inception in 2001. During the five-day “culinary circus,” the guest chefs—who between them have a wealth of impressive accolades—cook, compete and create innovative gourmet menus for their host restaurants in Reykjavík. From the sweet berries of the South American Chañar tree to Icelandicgrown Japanese wasabi, the diversity of ingredients used to accompany the mainly-Icelandic centerpieces of each dish was astounding. At Sumac on Laugavegur high street—a restaurant inspired by the flavors of Northern Africa—guests were treated to a special edition Food & Fun cocktail made with cool gin and cucumber, heated throughout with pepper and spiced with tangy sumac. This theme of extremes set the stage for the much-anticipated sevencourse menu prepared by Athanasios Kargatzidis—head chef and owner at Baron Beirut in Lebanon—who created a complementary and sometimes divergent food experience designed specifically to play with the senses. Standouts of the meal were many, from the slow-cooked salmon confit to the sweet ginger and date pudding served with tahini sesame ice cream; however, the superstar of the menu were the sensational oven-baked, stuffed dates cooked with the tasteintensifying addition of smoked tomatoes, pancetta and pomegranate molasses. Inexplicably delicious! foodandfun.is

Icelandair is a proud founding sponsor of the Food & Fun Festival. Icelandair Stopover / 15

FRESH AND SEXY Abercrombie & Fitch presents with pride a new fragrance for men and women. David Abercrombie founded Abercrombie CO in the heart of New York City in 1892, selling high-quality outdoor clothing, camping and hunting gear. In 1904 he went into partnership with lawyer Ezra Fitch and they changed the business’s name to Abercrombie & Fitch. The brand became known as the world’s leading sports and outdoor equipment store and had famous customers such as US Presidents John F. Kenney and Teddy Roosevelt.

Special Promotion

The brand has evolved from the days of Abercrombie and Fitch. Headquartered in New Albany, Ohio, Abercrombie & Fitch now has 1,050 outlets carrying quality everyday clothing for young people, as well as fragrances and other products. Abercrombie & Fitch carries the torch for its founders with fresh and sexy ambitions for the future. First Instinct Inspired by the magical moment when two strangers meet for the first time and sparks fly, First Instinct is a divine mixture of seductive scents for him and her. The man who wears the fragrance is confident, sincere and naturally charming. Already hard to resist, First Instinct enhances his charm and makes him irresistible. The fragrance takes you back to the moment when you first fell for your one and only. The eau de toilette’s top notes are comprised of gin & tonic and melon for freshness and a boost of adrenaline; the middle notes are a mixture of pepper and

16 / Special Promotion

citrus, a powerful concoction increasing the fragrance’s depth and energy flow; while the base notes of sueded musk and amber provide for perfect softness, rounding off the fragrance. The woman who wears the fragrance is unique in every way, her humble beauty makes everyone she meets speechless. She has a comfortable presence and radiates positive energy and confidence. She is not afraid to express her feelings or follow her emotions. The eau de toilette has top notes of sunkissed magnolia, grapefruit and passionfruit for charming freshness; middle notes of wild orange blossoms, orchid and waterlily for an amiable and feminine appearance; and bottom notes of warm amber and lustful musk for seductiveness.

Flip over this magazine and you’ll discover our exclusive Saga Shop Collection of on-board duty-free products.

Completing the Golden Circle

Geothermal baths - Natural steam baths Local kitchen - Geothermal bakery Open daily 11:00 - 22:00 (01/01 - 08/06) 10:00 - 23:00 (09/06 - 20/08)

BY VALA HAFSTAÐ. PORTRAIT OF EDDA BJÖRGVINSDÓTTIR BY ÁSTA KRISTJÁNSDÓTTIR. PHOTOS FROM UNDER THE TREE BY BRYNJAR SNÆR ÞRASTARSON.

At the 2017 Icelandic Film and Television Academy Edda Awards in February, Under the Tree (Undir trénu) by director Hafsteinn Gunnar Sigurðsson earned seven awards, including Best Film, Best Director, Best Leading Actress, Best Leading Actor and Best Supporting Actor. The black comedy, which premiered at the Venice International Film Festival in August of last year, has won six international awards and four additional international nominations. Set in a Reykjavík suburb, the film portrays an ever escalating dispute between neighbors. A tree in one family’s backyard casts a shadow on the neighbors’ deck, triggering a series of clashes. The indisputable star of the film is the leading actress, Edda Björgvinsdóttir, a beloved comedian, here in a dramatic role. Her performance as Inga, a grieving mother unable to come to terms with the disappearance and apparent suicide of her son, has been widely praised, both in Iceland and abroad. Sarah Ward

EXPLORING EMOTIONS Comedian Edda Björgvinsdóttir discusses her dramatic role in the film Under the Tree—a performance that earned her the 2017 Edda Award for Best Leading Actress. of Screen Daily wrote that with her performance, Edda “instantly thrusts the character into the annals of memorable screen matriarchs.” What was the toughest part about this role? To delve into all the deep, tough emotions, because if you don’t do that, it won’t touch the audience. Technically you can interpret happiness, grief, 18 / Film

concern for others, love, and what have you, but if you don’t dig deep into your own emotions from your own experience, then it won’t affect the audience … they will neither cry nor laugh. How did you prepare for it? I’m lucky enough to be part of a wonderful, loving, but dysfunctional family, where there are many alcoholics and lots of codependency, and that’s the most fantastic experience base you can have … [battling your codependency] forces you on a journey of a major introspection. I used the whole summer [of 2016] … to explore all my feelings. The worst any human being can imagine—and thank God it’s not part of my experience base—is to lose a child, and [for this kind of role], you need the ability, which actors have, through their training, to step well enough into other people’s shoes to be able to dwell in the emotion, even though I would never claim to know how such parents feel, ever, but I reach a place where I feel a different kind of sorrow and fear, which I have experienced, and then imagine it to be, maybe, four times as bad. What, in your view, is the message of the movie? In my mind, the core is human misery and human frailty and failing to address problems at hand with maturity, love and wisdom—I’m talking about human interactions in their smallest form, when you quarrel with your husband or children— and how the world itself is affected by such immaturity … I think it’s a global message; if we fail to talk to one another with understanding and love, then we’ll leave the world in ruins. Did the rave reviews you received for your performance change the way you see yourself as an actress or increase your interest in taking on dramatic roles? The amazing thing which has been proven all over the world

is that if you have an easy time making people laugh—which is when their defenses drop—the bonus of it is that then it’s just as easy to reach all their deep and sad feelings. You see this with all comedians … All actors desire getting a chance to use their whole spectrum of skills, so I would find it a privilege to be given a chance to do both. But the fact is that [the roles] choose you. You don’t have much of a chance to choose what kind of roles you get, comical or dramatic. What significance does it have for you to receive an Edda Award for this role? When I was young and much more arrogant, I used to think

that such an award wouldn’t mean a thing to me … But now, I must say, that receiving it matters a lot to me … I’m full of gratitude and joy. In your career as an actress, you have acted in films, on TV and on stage. Which of the three do you enjoy the most and why? I have a lot of energy and it takes a lot of energy to act on stage. A night of performance requires so much energy that it’s much like moving all your furniture by yourself. That is a major challenge and so much fun to be allowed to do it, one role after another, as I now do at the National Theatre [of Iceland]. That is a fantastic

privilege, especially since, at my age [65], most women have dropped out a long time ago. In recent years, you’ve also worked as a motivational speaker for employees. Tell me about that experience. I’m so insanely hyperactive, I’m proud to say. I got a master’s degree in cultural management quite some time ago and wrote my master’s thesis on humor in management. Then I earned a diploma in positive psychology at the University of Iceland several years ago. For 20 years, I’ve been giving classes and speeches, and then about seven years ago, I began giving talks on humor and joy in the workplace—a dead serious subject. When used in a positive way, humor can improve the atmosphere in a workplace tremendously and increase creativity. You’re best known as a comedian. What does it take to be good in that role? It doesn’t hurt to have a tragic past, but what’s most important is to have a superb connection with your own emotions and to be very emotionally intelligent. But good comedians or standup comedians also have something … which can neither be defined nor learned. It either is there or isn’t. What’s on the horizon for you? Since acting in Under the Tree, I have participated in two films, which have yet to premiere. Right now, I have a role in two plays at the theater. Then I will be acting in a wonderful children’s play there in the fall—a novel production of Astrid Lindgren’s Ronia, the Robber’s Daughter. I look so much forward to it … Finally, a screenplay with me in the lead is being written right now, but that’s all I can reveal at this point. It’s all very exciting. You can watch Under the Tree on the in-flight entertainment system.

Icelandair Stopover / 19

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Hörgshlíðarlaug. Courtesy of Visit Westfjords.

SECRET SWIMMING POOLS If you want to understand Iceland, visit its pools.

22 / Travel

In April 2017 a friend from the UK visited me in Reykjavík, where I was staying to research my book Out of Thin Air. He had a long weekend to drive around Iceland and wanted to see some of the country’s most unusual bathing spots. The time limit was curiously attractive. Could we see the best of Iceland’s hidden pools in just four days?

BY ANTHONY ADEANE.

In the Shadow of the Volcano In hot countries pools are for cooling down, but in Iceland they are for warming up. Heated by water piped from the country’s geothermal core, they are dotted all around the volcanic landscape that Icelanders call home. We loaded our bags into a rental car so flimsy that it felt like a strong gust might blow it from the road, and began to drive east. Our first stop was Seljavallalaug, a few hours from Reykjavík. Although not far from Route 1—the Ring Road, the main thoroughfare for the two million tourists who visit the country annually, very few people make it to the pool there, not least because there are no signs indicating its whereabouts. Once parked, we wended our way on foot along gravel paths and over a small stream. As we descended the valley, the sun peeped from the clouds and by the time we arrived at the pool the snow-capped peaks above us were gleaming. The pool itself is simple and attractive, and there is a small communal changing room next to the water. Volunteers maintain the upkeep of the pool by fishing out any volcanic ash that might have drifted into the water from the nearby Eyjafjallajökull volcano. In the winter, they crack the early morning ice. There is no entry fee. But it is the setting that makes Seljavallalaug so special. When you are in the water you are surrounded by nature. The sides of the valley rise away on three sides. Totemic black rock formations loom in the distance. Meeting the Locals After two hours there, we continued our mammoth drive on to Höfn, briefly stopping by the beaches at Vík to watch the sea sweep into the bay and to pick bright blue shells off the black sands. We sped along the Ring Road, fueled by coffee and hot dogs, but slowed down considerably after seeing the rust-covered carcasses of trailers that had spun off the icy roads. We were intent on visiting Laugarvallalaug by Kárahnjúkar, a pool near the borders of the eastern Highlands that is only accessible in a decent car. Fortunately, our hostel proprietor Icelandair Stopover / 23

Perched on the top of a hill and with a view of the sea, the Ostakarið tub just outside the town is a gem. A reconverted cheese tub may not sound promising, but once inside it’s impossible not to be charmed. As we relaxed in the warm waters, we suddenly realized we had company. An elderly Icelandic couple. They squeezed into the water alongside us and surveyed the view. “Not bad eh?” one of them said, gesturing at the sea in the distance. Every fiber of my British upbringing was telling me that being sat eyeball-to-eyeball with a stranger in their swimwear should be discomfiting. But actually, the opposite was true. Being up close to someone like this is oddly relaxing. In fact, it’s humanizing. Divested of anything that might gesture towards status, being in the pool means that everyone is on the same level. We sat back in the pool and spoke until our fingers were pruned. Those Icelandic politicians canvassing for votes at the pool are definitely onto something. put us in touch with some tourists in Egilsstaðir who had a 4x4. The following day we found ourselves being driven across the uneven terrain that leads to one of Iceland’s most difficult-to-reach pools. Fed by two streams, one piping hot and one warm, the water at Laugarvallalaug is a perfect temperature. We took it in turns to have a shower under a small waterfall cascading from a rock face before spending a long afternoon chatting with two local farmers who had stopped by for a swim.

From top: Laugarvallalaug. Photo by Rhombie Sandoval. Courtesy of Visit East Iceland; Seljavallavallalaug. Photo by Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir; Ostakarið (which is about to close). Photo by Carolyn Bain; The Geothermal Sea Baths, which are set to open in the location where Ostakarið is now in mid-June.

24 / Travel

In Iceland the pool is where people go to socialize. It serves much the same function as the pub, providing a spot for catching up with friends, arguing good-naturedly with strangers, or simply staring into space. When politicians want to tap into the public mood, they put on their swimwear and head to the pool. It’s the best place to go if you want to meet Icelanders and have a chat. The Cheese Tub Next day, after a night in the artsy town of Seydisfjörður in the East Fjords, where we marveled at the famous ice-blue church and listened to an eerie audio installation in the hills, we zig-zagged our way through the fjords, driving north and then west. We passed abandoned farmhouses, yellow lighthouses and plump hay bales bound in white plastic like humungous balls of buffalo mozzarella. By late afternoon, we arrived at Húsavík in the Northeast.

Bath in a Blizzard For our final day, we drove to a tiny pool in Mjóifjörður in the remote Westfjords region. Located next to Hörgshlíð farm, the small pool has a perfect view of the fjords. After a long stint in the car, we were looking forward to unwinding in its warm embrace. A sign nearby directed us to the local landowner who cheerily granted us permission to visit. It was snowing when we arrived and when the snow hit the water steam rose from the surface. We slid into the water and savored the temperature. My hair was stiff with ice but, despite the blizzard, it felt like relaxing in the bath at home. This, more than anything, seems to be why pools have such appeal in Iceland. For all its otherworldly beauty, Iceland’s landscape can sometimes be unforgiving and desolate. That’s what makes the pool so special. Its waters provide respite from the harshness of the elements. It can be like finding an oasis in the desert. It’s a refuge.

Anthony Adeane is a freelance journalist based in the UK, mainly working for the BBC. Out of Thin Air by Anthony Adeane—a true crime book about a pair of disappearances in 1974 that would go on to become Iceland’s most infamous criminal cases—was published by riverrun in March 2018.

Icelandair Stopover / 25

Left: A panel with the featured authors at the 2017 IWR.

Every April, authors from all over the world gather at the Iceland Writers Retreat in Reykjavík to give or attend writing workshops, share their passion for literature and learn about Iceland’s literary heritage.

FOR THE LOVE OF THE WRITTEN WORD What kind of event is the IWR? It’s a combination of small-group workshops and cultural tours. It has a friendly, informal, welcoming atmosphere, and it’s for anybody who is interested in writing. You don’t have to be a published author. I’ve compared it to going to a cooking class in Thailand. You might be a professional chef or just someone who tinkers with cooking; either way, you’ll get something out of the experience by being among likeminded people in a new environment. Erica (left) and Eliza at a previous IWR.

In 2012, friends and book lovers Eliza Reid and Erica Jacobs Green determined over a glass of wine that Iceland was the perfect location for a writer’s conference. Eliza, a journalist and travel writer, and Erica, who has years of experience in book publishing, joined forces, establishing the Iceland Writers Retreat (IWR) in 2014. A great success, the fifth annual event will take place April 11–15, including an authors’ evening on April 10 that is free and open to the public. Icelandair Stopover’s Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir asks Eliza—who has also been First Lady of Iceland since 2016—a few questions about her brainchild. 26 / Literature

What can you tell me about the faculty and workshops? The faculty changes each year and we like to showcase authors who are well known in their own communities, and often internationally, too. We try to have a good balance in gender, age and background so that it’s as diverse as possible and there’s always at least one author from Iceland. This year we have authors from the US, Canada, UK, Iceland, Sweden and Palestine who will be leading workshops. Each featured author offers two workshops and picks the topics. We offer a mixture of fiction and non-fiction focused workshops. What kind of tours do you offer? They’re unique literary-themed tours that you can’t book at a travel agency. Participants can choose between three all-day tours of the Icelandic countryside,

PORTRAIT OF ELIZA REID BY GEIR GUÐSTEINSSON. OTHER PHOTOS BY ROMAN GERASYMENKO.

all of which have an Icelandic author as a guide and include a stop at Gljúfrasteinn [the home-turned-museum of Icelandic Nobel Prize in Literature laureate Halldór Laxness] with a reading by a local author. All participants can also join a literary walking tour of Reykjavík. Finally, we have a pub night on the last evening featuring local music and readings. Are participants happy about the experience? What they enjoy the most is the access they have to well-known authors in a small workshop and friendly atmosphere. It’s very open. Even if they don’t attend a workshop with a specific author they may be seated next to him or her at lunch. And of course nothing beats Iceland as a location for a writing event; the surroundings are inspirational and as a society we have tremendous respect for literary pursuits. We have received excellent reviews. Pretty much unanimously. The Sydney Morning Herald named us one of the world’s best writer’s retreats and the editor-in-chief of Poets & Writers magazine said that it was a life-changing experience. icelandwritersretreat.com Icelandair is the proud founding sponsor of the Iceland Writers Retreat.

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Spring is a time for translations. Björn Halldórsson has picked a selection of translated Icelandic novels for you, some of which are available in English for the very first time this year.

Audio book

THE WOMAN AT 1,000 DEGREES

KIN

HOTEL SILENCE

BY SNORRI KRISTJÁNSSON

BY AUÐUR AVA ÓLAFSDÓTTIR

BY HALLGRÍMUR HELGASON

The first book in brand-new series The Helga Finnsdóttir Mysteries, Kin takes Nordic Noir to some unexpected places— namely Viking Age Scandinavia. The eponymous Helga is the adopted daughter of Unnthor Reginsson, a fearsome Viking warlord who has hung up his war-axe and turned from raiding to farming. When Unnthor’s trueborn children gather for a feast at the old homestead, wounds that never fully healed are torn open and bad blood will out. The stage is set for a “murder at the mansion” mystery like no other. Helga must use her unassuming stature in the household to her advantage if she is to save an innocent man from the axe. While providing ample mystery to urge the reader on, the book is also a fascinating insight into everyday life among the Vikings. Helga and her adoptive mother, the fearsome Hildigunnur who acts as matriarch and advisor to the valley’s womenfolk, are strong character creations that trade in guile and intuition to navigate and harness power in a society that has no qualms about might equaling right.

Jónas Ebeneser is pretty much done with life. No one seems to have much use for a middleaged loner who has little to offer but his abilities as a handyman. After finding out he is not his daughter’s biological father, he stoically decides to end it all. To spare his family he picks a random travel destination as the setting for his final act, deciding upon an unnamed war-torn country as he figures the locals will already be so familiar with death they will hardly bat an eye at his own meagre end. Ever the pragmatic, he packs his drill and toolbox (the smaller one) for the trip in case he’ll need to install a ceiling hook to ensure a successful hanging. However, once he finds himself living among these survivors of war, his reasons for ending his life start to seem rather pitiful. Resplendent with Auður Ava’s signature black humor and stripped-down poetic language, Hotel Silence addresses the subtle process of physical and emotional healing and the human desire to be of use in the world.

From the author of 101 Reykjavík: In a rented garage in a suburban hamlet of Reykjavík, an old woman prepares her cancerridden self for a final cremation at 1,000°. With only her cigarettes and memories for company—as well as a WWII-era hand grenade that never leaves her side—she whittles away the time by recounting her strange and winding life story; the many incarnations of Herbjörg “Herra” María Björnsson. With casual sarcasm and scurrilous honesty, Herra traces her story from her childhood in the islands of Breiðafjörður, through Nazi occupied Copenhagen and the forests of Poland to her time in post-war Argentina—all the while remaining obstinately unapologetic for the choices she made that led her to her current, bedridden self. As per usual, Hallgrímur’s text is dense yet delightful, full of humor and wordplay that is expertly reproduced by Brian FitzGibbon’s translation. Throughout, the reader gets the sensation that the author cares deeply for his garrulous and vitriolic protagonist, who was inspired by a real person.

THE PERFECT LANDSCAPE BY RAGNA SIGURÐARDÓTTIR

Art historian Hanna returns to Iceland to take up a position at an art gallery in Reykjavík. It’s the height of the country’s economic boom and works of art are becoming valued as a secure investment regardless of their artistic merits. When the museum receives a donation from a wealthy beneficiary, a previously unknown painting by a famous 20th-century Icelandic artist, it’s initially seen as quite the coup. Soon, however, doubts begin to surface regarding the painting’s authenticity. As the painting’s donor and the gallery owners show little inclination to do anything to devalue their latest acquisition, Hanna must forge ahead alone into the murky underworld of art forgeries to determine the painting’s authenticity. But in a world of high investment and high stakes, does anyone still care for the truth? The intrigue of this novel is the insight it gives into the ethics and feuds of the art world, a world that the author, who is a painter and an art critic, is very familiar with.

Check out which audio books are available on page 86 and on our in-flight entertainment system.

28 / Icelandair

Icelandair Stopover / 29

BY EINAR LÖVDAHL.

Viðar Halldórsson. Photo by Kristinn Ingvarsson.

Viðar Halldórsson, Associate Professor of Sociology at the University of Iceland, recently published a book on the so-called “Golden Age of Icelandic sports.”

THE SMALLNESS IS OUR STRENGTH Being an Icelandic sports fan has been extraordinarily enjoyable in the recent years. After decades of supporting other national teams at major tournaments such as the FIFA World Cup, Icelanders will be able to support their own team this summer as the men’s team heads to Russia in June. Opening the Floodgates According to Viðar Halldórsson, Associate Professor of Sociology at the University of Iceland, who has spent the last couple of years researching Iceland’s success in team sports, we’re experiencing “the Golden Age of Icelandic sports.” Iceland first qualified for a team sport major tournament in 1958, when the men’s handball team reached the World Championship. In fact, handball was the only sport the nation was any good at, generally speaking, for the next 50 years. “It reached the point where foreign handball coaches thought our elementary schools only taught math, Icelandic and handball,” Viðar informs. “But this shifted in 2008, the year that we first won a medal in men’s handball—silver at the Olympics in Beijing—which seemed to open the floodgates,” he adds. 30 / Football

Namely, in the last 10 years Iceland has qualified for major tournaments in men’s and women’s handball, men’s basketball as well as women’s and men’s football (as portrayed in the table on the opposite page). We Could Never Play “the Brazilian Way” A nation of 340,000 people qualifying for the FIFA World Cup—the smallest nation ever to do so—has understandably called for explanations. More often than not people have credited the Icelandic Football Association’s (KSÍ) program of improving coaching education and facilities by building indoor football pitches. This, Viðar claims, is a huge simplification. “Since we had success in all these sports in the same decade, I was sure the key factor was missing.” Thus, Viðar started digging into the common elements of the aforementioned teams and wrote a book, Sport in Iceland: How small nations achieve international success. “I argue that the smallness of the nation is a strength rather than a disadvantage. The smallness has helped the Icelandic teams cohere since the players share the same social

backgrounds—it helps establish teams which are based on friendship, respect and sacrifice so they become something more than the sum of their parts,” Viðar explains. “We have certain elements that other bigger nations lack. Team spirit is the backbone of our teams and they approach each game as, in fact, a game,” Viðar says and points out that the timing and luck also play a part. “At the same time, the world of marketized sports has been facing increasing problems such as the rise of greed and individualism, which doesn’t fit team sports. Many national teams have suffered from this.” All else aside, one can’t help but wonder whether publishing a holistic analysis of the success isn’t like revealing a national secret that could harm the Icelandic teams. “There is no secret. Our way of playing sports is just a derivative of our culture and therefore, other nations could never try to adapt ‘the Icelandic model’, just like we could never play ‘the Brazilian way’,” he replies. “So I hope putting this into context helps in some way—rather than the other way around.”

VARIOUS ACHIEVEMENTS OF “THE GOLDEN AGE” The men’s handball team won the silver medal at the 2008 Olympics in Beijing, becoming the smallest nation to win a medal in a team sport. They have since reached 10 more major tournaments. In 2010 the women’s handball team qualified for the IHF European Championship for the first time, then again in 2012 and 2014. The women’s football team qualified for the UEFA European Championships three times. In 2009, 2013—reaching the second round—and 2017. The men’s basketball team earned a spot at the FIBA EuroBasket twice in a row— 2015 and 2017. The men’s football team qualified for the UEFA European Championships for the first time in 2016, where they reached the quarter-finals. After becoming by far the smallest nation to ever qualify, Iceland’s men’s team will compete in the 2018 FIFA World cup in Russia.

Top right: Iceland’s captain Aron Einar Gunnarsson. All of the photos on this page are from Iceland vs. Croatia in the World Cup qualifiers in June 2017. Courtesy of the Football Association of Iceland. Icelandair Stopover / 31

Gummi Ben in action at the 2016 Euros in France.

GUMMI BEN: DREAMING AND SCREAMING Iceland’s favorite commentator is still getting emails from abroad after going viral in 2016. He can’t wait for the next chapter—the World Cup in Russia. 32 / Football

Before Iceland vs. Portugal at the 2016 Euros in France. It’s June 27, 2016. A simple blow of a whistle ends a match that could be called one of the greatest upsets in football history. The smallest nation ever to qualify for the UEFA European Championship, Iceland has knocked out England—and one Guðmundur Benediktsson, the commentator of the Icelandic television broadcaster, loses it. He screams from the top of his lungs about a never-ending dream for more than a minute, becoming an instant social media sensation. “It’s all still kind of blurred,” Guðmundur says chuckling. “And so are the following days,” he adds, although he does recall having had to turn off his phone since it wouldn’t stop beeping and ringing. “I still get weekly emails from foreign journalists who want to discuss Icelandic football with the ‘Crazy Commentator’.” Guðmundur, or Gummi Ben as he is more commonly known, is a former footballer with 10 games for Iceland on his resumé. He relishes the chance to have a role in the recent sporting fairytale—Iceland playing at the World Cup in Russia in June and July—but insists that commentating football doesn’t come close to playing. “There is no better profession in the world than being a footballer, simple as that.” Miles Away From Neutrality The men’s national team bears the nickname “Our Boys,” but in Guðmundur’s case, it has an even stronger meaning. His own son is one of those fighting for a place in the squad for the World Cup in Russia this summer.

The 20-year-old Albert Guðmundsson, who made his debut for the team last year, grew up on the sideline of a football pitch as his mother and Guðmundur’s wife, Kristbjörg Ingadóttir, is also a former footballer. On top of that, he’s named after his greatgrandfather, who happens to be Iceland’s first professional footballer.

BY EINAR LÖVDAHL. PHOTOS BY STEINGRÍMUR JÓN ÞÓRÐARSON.

“He has been known as a promising player since he was a kid—which isn’t easy—so seeing where he is today with both feet on the ground makes me really proud,” Guðmundur says. And he’s keeping his fingers crossed for the boy. “You could definitely argue that he should be picked for the World Cup, but I’m miles away from being neutral,” he says smiling. “They Got This” In the recent months Guðmundur has been all over Europe making a TV series on how to win the World Cup. Like many, he can’t wait for Iceland’s first game on June 16 as “Our Boys” will line up against Argentina—a two-time World Cup winner and the team of arguably the best player ever, Lionel Messi. One could certainly ask for an easier opener, but Guðmundur is optimistic. “I remember the feeling before our first game of the Euros. ‘Perhaps this stage is one size too big,’ I said to myself, but once I had interviewed the players before the game I walked away thinking, ‘they got this.’ They’re just that confident,” he says. “They believe they’re going through to the second round, and therefore I believe,” says the “Crazy Commentator”—who will hopefully find plenty of reasons to scream about never-ending dreams come June. Icelandair Stopover / 33

HANNES ÞÓR: THE MAN WITH THE SAFEST HANDS The story of Iceland qualifying for the men’s World Cup is arguably one of the most fascinating underdog stories in recent times. Goalkeeper Hannes Þór Halldórsson is the embodiment of that story. During the summer of 2013, he worked as an advertising director and played semiprofessional football in Iceland. This summer, he will be facing possibly the best footballer of all time—Lionel Messi of Argentina—on the biggest stage of all.

Hannes Þór Halldórsson went from semiprofessional football in Iceland to the World Cup in less than five years.

Motivational Home Decorating Hannes protected Iceland’s goal at the Euros in 2016, where the team shook the world by reaching the quarter-finals. He admits it was hard to fight off doubts of whether the team would ever get another such shot at glory. “Usually, teams that are surprisingly successful at a major tournament struggle to maintain the success. I think we all had that at the back of our mind at the beginning of the World Cup qualifiers,” he explains. “But we gained belief gradually and all that just makes you even prouder of this team.”

In company with Argentina, Iceland will face Croatia and Nigeria, which has to be considered a challenging group. “We could have been luckier, but we’ve proven that we should never be counted out,” Hannes says. And so, on June 16 Hannes will strap on his gloves for the biggest moment of his career. He’s excited but he admits that taking the field comes with an increased heart rate, mostly due to the goalkeeper’s responsibilities. “It never reaches the point where you feel like it’s no big deal, but you learn to cope with it by experience.” He says the team’s famed unity helps. “We find 100% backing in each other and the supporters. And I believe that if you prepare yourself absolutely as well as you can, you’re good—and the game is just what happens,” says Hannes, the man with the safest hands in Iceland.

For self-motivation, Hannes did some interesting home decorating. He printed out a picture of a stadium in Russia, the host of the World Cup, and hung it on the bedroom wall. “I did the same before the Euros, when I was going through a tough rehabilitation after injuring my shoulder. I decided to try it again—to remind me of the final goal every single morning—and I have to believe it helped,” he informs. Stopping the World’s Best Player Hannes describes the World Cup as a distant thought, although it’s becoming more real by the day. “It kind of hits 34 / Football

me when I see a Barcelona game on TV that we’re playing Messi in June,” he says. The situation reminds him of the Euros when Iceland faced Portugal, the team of Messi’s archrival, Cristiano Ronaldo. “When I was studying Ronaldo before the game, I couldn’t help but shake my head in disbelief and joke about [how unreal it was] with my friends via Snapchat. I guess this will be similar, but of course that’s not what we’re going for—our mission is to stop Messi and his team,” he explains.

Icelandair is a proud sponsor of Iceland’s national teams in men’s and women’s football.

BY EINAR LÖVDAHL. PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE FOOTBALL ASSOCIATION OF ICELAND.

Icelandair offers direct flights to Iceland’s first three games at the World Cup in Russia, taking place on June 16 in Moscow, June 22 in Volgograd and June 26 in Rostov.

Clockwise from top right: Hannes Þór Halldórsson in Iceland’s game against Croatia in the World Cup qualifiers in June 2017; Fans witness Iceland beating Croatia by one goal; Iceland’s head coach Heimir Hallgrímsson after the game.

Icelandair Stopover / 35

Clockwise from top right: The harbor in Hofsรณs in 1938; From the exhibit New Land, New Life; From Prairies Wide and Free; The old warehouse; From Silent Flashes and New Land, New Life (center); An aerial shot of the town. 36 / History

BY KARIN MURRAY-BERGQUIST. PHOTOS BY ÞRÖSTUR S. VALGEIRSSON, COURTESY OF THE ICELANDIC EMIGRATION CENTER.

BRIDGING TIME AND SPACE

A visit to the Icelandic Emigration Center in Hofsós, North Iceland, leads to encounters with the past.

Looking towards the mouth of Skagafjörður from the Hofsós pier is a glance backward in time. Located in northwest Iceland, the town stands on the eastern side of the fjord, with mountains rising at its back. While today it’s a quiet spot, the turn of the 20th century saw the harbor filled with ships bound for the Americas. The Icelandic Emigration Center, a researchoriented museum, has worked for over 20 summers to tell the stories of those who emigrated between 1870 and 1914—roughly a fifth of Iceland’s population —and to connect with their descendants. The center stands at the harbor by the mouth of the river Hofsá. The buildings that now house the museum, including the village’s old warehouse, were falling into decay but were meticulously reconstructed by the center’s director, Valgeir Þorvaldsson. Each exhibit offers a different perspective: In the old co-op building, New Land, New Life describes reasons for leaving and the often circuitous routes to the new land. Silent Flashes puts faces to names by way of photography, then a new technology. Prairies Wide and Free focuses on North Dakota through the eyes of children. The largest building, Frændgarður, houses the library and genealogy database, where visitors can trace their ancestry. West-Farers The 19th century in Iceland saw widespread poverty and hunger following volcanic eruptions, crop failures, and low fish stocks.

The museum’s year-by-year weather and emigration record shows the effect of these natural catastrophes on the population, as well as the main destinations for departure. The word used for the emigrants, vesturfarar, literally translates to “west-farers,” for it was westward that Icelanders looked to start anew, many settling in Manitoba, Alberta, and the Dakotas. The town of Gimli, Manitoba, was the heart of New Iceland, and today still hosts Íslendingadagurinn, an annual Icelandic Festival. Valgeir has his own family stories bound up in his work, and throughout two decades, he has forged ties with several Icelandic-North American communities. The vastness of the land was apparent on his first visit to Canada: Stepping off the plane in Halifax, he realized that his next stop, Winnipeg, was as far away as Reykjavík. At the turn of the century, this would have meant several days on the train, following a rigorous ocean crossing. Excerpts from letters and journals illustrate emigrants’ impressions of the new land, including vivid descriptions by 20-year-old Stephan G. Stephansson, who settled in Alberta and became known as Klettafjallaskáldið, the “Poet of the Rocky Mountains.” The center tracks several such journeys, some ending in eastern ports, while others continued westward for better land, new opportunities, or pursuing family ties. Now, these ties lead many back to Hofsós.

Reunion Three Generations in the Making One summer, two stories came to an unexpected conclusion. A family from Canada had come to the center in search of an ancestor, and as they discussed his journey, another group began to listen intently. There was a reason it sounded familiar: They were descended from that emigrant’s younger brother. Although the pair had intended to meet in America, the elder brother decided to move further west, and by the time the letter bearing the news reached Iceland, the younger had already boarded a ship. They never saw each other again. According to Valgeir, such encounters are not so rare: The concentration of information and visitors in one place makes it possible for previously unknown cousins to meet by coincidence. Manitoba fiddler Murray Jowett, visiting in 2016, arrived unaware of his own connection to Hofsós. He recounts the warm welcome and genealogical insight he received. “Valgeir plugged in the names of my relatives and grandparents, and ended up saying, ‘Look! We are closely related! Fourth cousins!’” Coast to Coast The center has grown since its opening in 1996, in terms of material rather than physical size. Years of visitors have added to its trove of history, but for their wealth of content, the buildings are compact, reflecting the scale of the town. It’s easy to spend hours walking through them, enjoying the view of the harbor and the snug sense of a small house in a vast landscape. When Valgeir speaks of growth, the meaning is clear—creating and maintaining a “bond of continuity” between past and present, North America and Iceland. In early 2017, the west coast of Canada and the United States saw a landmark celebratory visit, with further trips to come. The Icelandic Emigration Center gives its visitors a snapshot of the world inhabited by the vesturfarar, looking across an ocean to a new beginning. The visitors to Hofsós each summer recall the crowds of an earlier time, as ships set off, packed with people, from the pier. Whether led by curiosity or genealogy, they have brought history circling back on itself, bridging a century, an ocean, and two continents.

The Icelandic Emigration Center is open June 1 to September 2, 11 am to 6 pm or by appointment. Icelandair Stopover / 37

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TALES OF THE UNEXPECTED The waterfalls and glaciers of Iceland need little introduction, and some local highlights are now so popular they need to be pre-booked (we’re looking at you, Blue Lagoon). With the arrival of more and more visitors, we want to let you in on some surprise treats scattered around the country.

BY CAROLYN BAIN.

My job as a travel writer means investigating the obvious and not-so-obvious attractions, and there’s nothing I love more than a road trip that uncovers unexpected gems (often with great backstories) in unlikely locations. Every trip results in a new list of offbeat treats to share. Far-from-Home Flavors Heading out of Reykjavík, food from the Horn of Africa is not what I expected to find as I toured the Golden Circle. Stop by Minilik in Flúðir and you’re in for a colorful surprise. Here, an Icelandic-Ethiopian couple warmly offers you Ethiopian coffee ceremonies and exotic traditional dishes (including good vegetarian options). Cross-cultural diners can forsake cutlery and use the injera, a spongy flatbread, to scoop mouthfuls of spice-enhanced stews. A Viking Playground You’ve probably seen images of Stokksnes in Iceland’s southeastern corner: A stunning black beach with Vestrahorn’s peak looming as a moody backdrop. What holds equal appeal to me is the Viking-themed playground that sits at the base of the mountain (accessible by paying a small fee to the landowner). From the rustic Viking Café you can take a short walk to a film set constructed around 2009 for a project by renowned Icelandic filmmaker and TV director Baltasar Kormákur (a project that has yet to come to fruition). Parts of the film set are a little decrepit, and the site can get muddy, but it’s a photogenic destination for unleashing your inner Viking.

Main photo: Bed down in history, in a re-created baðstofa. Photo courtesy of the Wilderness Center. From top left: Chef Jaouad adds spice to Siglufjörður. Courtesy of Siglunes Guesthouse; The Wilderness Center has the highlands at its doorstep; Play Viking warrior on a far-flung film set. Photos by Carolyn Bain. Icelandair Stopover / 41

The perfect pitstop at Havarí. Photo courtesy of the proprietors. Veggie Eats, Remote Beats Continuing east, the population thins and roadside pitstops dwindle. I certainly didn’t expect to find vegan food and live indie music miles from “civilization,” between the small towns of Djúpivogur and Breiðdalsvík. Havarí is a property owned by a creative young family who moved East from Reykjavík and then proceeded to turn their organic farm into something special. Owners Berglind and Svavar Pétur (better known as Icelandic indie-pop singer Prins Póló) run a hostel and a café, where they serve their Bulsur (vegan sausages) and farm-made Sveitasnakk (chips made from potatoes or turnips). The café is in the farm’s converted cowshed, and in summer it hosts regular live gigs from some big names in Icelandic music. Beds in a Baðstofa My heart lies in Iceland’s East, an area so many road-trippers speed through. Deep in a valley here, about an hour’s drive southwest of Egilsstaðir, is the Wilderness Center, an appealing place to retreat into old-school Icelandic farm life and storytelling traditions. It’s so authentic you can sleep in a re-created baðstofa, the common living-sleeping room found in most Icelandic farms in the 19th century. Here, the baðstofa dormitory allows a peek into yesteryear without foregoing comforts—and also at the farm is a clever modern museum, and activities that tap into the beautiful edge-of-the-Highlands location, like horse-riding tours and waterfall trails. Living Room Designs Small-town creativity is a trademark of Seyðisfjörður, a village filled with rainbow42 / Travel

hued cottages and small galleries. Curious to see inside one of the local homes, I made a beeline for the sweet green cottage named Blóðberg (“Arctic Thyme”), which dates from around 1870. Inside its timber walls, Erna Helgadóttir has filled her cozy living room with Icelandic goodies perfect for stylish souvenir hunters. It’s a petite, well-curated collection that features dresses by Reykjavík designers Hildur Yeoman and Helicopter, ceramics by Embla and by Finnsdottir, organic skincare from Sóley, and super-cute kids’ treats from Tulipop. Photogenic Pitstop The isolated Highland farm of Möðrudalur is a great base for visiting the central Highlands, or just a worthy detour off the Ring Road while traveling between the North and East. The food here is a farmto-table triumph (the lamb, reindeer and goose all have very low food miles, as does the unique moss soup). But I’ll go out of my way to visit Möðrudalur simply for the chance to refuel at the prettiest gas station in Iceland—the gas pumps are housed in a wooden cottage with a turf roof. I love an N1 hot dog as much as any road-tripper, but Möðrudalur makes for a heartwarming change of scenery. Like a Kid in a Candy Store The window of Sjoppan vöruhús intrigued me, as did the sign advertising Minnsta hönnunarsjoppa Íslands (“Iceland’s smallest design store”). Great sales pitch! Designer Almar Alfreðsson makes shopping a nostalgic joy at Sjoppan, a “kiosk” in Akureyri across the street from the town’s art museum. A board out front outlines the shop’s catalogue and hours

Vestrahorn looms over Viking-themed structures. Photo by Carolyn Bain. (you can also see these on Sjoppan’s Facebook page). Ring the bell during opening hours then order your purchase through the window. The whole concept was inspired by the candy stores of Almar’s youth, and the Icelandic design trinkets on offer are as fun as any sugary treat. North Africa Meets North Iceland As with Minilik in Iceland’s Southwest, it warms my heart to stumble on distant flavors and kitchen creativity in unexpected places. In history-filled Siglufjörður, less than 24 mi (40 km) from the Arctic Circle, I relished the chance to dine on authentic Moroccan flavors paired with fresh Icelandic produce. Jaouad Hbib hails from Morocco’s Atlantic coast and is now the chef at Siglunes Guesthouse’s restaurant. Each night (excluding Monday) he prepares a changing menu of aromatic, slow-cooked tagines and fruity desserts, where spices rule and homemade soft cheeses are used to great effect. Want more? The list of hidden gems is almost endless. There are beer-filled spas, concerts where the audience is blindfolded, and a place where you can dive among puffins. I encourage you to go looking beyond the landscapes for the untold stories—there are plenty to be found… Carolyn Bain is an Australian travel writer who has written dozens of guidebooks and articles for publishers, including Lonely Planet and BBC Travel. After four circuits of the Ring Road in five years, the lure of Iceland proved impossible to fight and she recently set up permanent home in Reykjavík.

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TRAVEL BLOG:

SPLITTING UP THE FLIGHT On his way from Seattle to London, seasoned traveler Bob Ecker makes a memorable stopover in Iceland while beating the jetlag.

Islets belonging to the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago. Photo by Benjamin Hardman.

44 / Travel Blog

Flew from the Sacramento airport to Seattle last September to catch my Icelandair flight to Reykjavík, and eventually on to London. With Icelandair, you can make a stopover in Iceland for a few days without extra airfare. You get to see a fascinating country, beat jetlag and all for much cheaper than most airlines. What’s not to like? Heard there will be a new flight from San Francisco starting up later in the year, but for me had to catch the nearest Icelandair connection. Seattle is a very cool city. And situated in a gorgeous area of the Pacific Northwest, between Puget Sound and the lakes and mountains of the interior. From the famous Space Needle, an icon of Seattle, you can see the Cascade Mountains and even Mt. Rainier on a clear day. Other fun spots include artist Dale Chihuly Garden and Glass museum, amazing works of glass; the awesome Museum of Flight and the delicious Pike Place Market; really, this 101-year-old market is what all others strive to emulate. I went to Iceland about 10 years ago and had a blast. Saw Reykjavík, of course… oohhh those lamb hot dogs, the best! Took in the Golden Circle sights like the majestic Gullfoss waterfall, the Strokkur geyser and the incredible Þingvellir, where the first parliament took place. Very cool. Plus, the Blue Lagoon. I even flew north for some whale watching in Húsavík. But this time, I wanted to see Vestmannaeyjar, or the Westman Islands, a bit off the southeast coast. Heard it was an interesting place. Sailed into the Heimaey harbor past rugged cliffs with tons of seabirds—I think they’re gannets—whizzing around and nesting up there. I’ve been told that cliff scaling and rappelling, or sprang is a dangerous local sport. Away from the port, the land is austere and rough, like much of Iceland, yet I was surprised to see lots of nice green grass. There’s even a golf course against the mountains and the sea. A couple of guys were out there playing. Looks like a tough course. The weather is pleasant, though I imagine the water is cold. Seabirds continually fly by. The name, Vestmannaeyjar, was given by Norse settlers referring to “west men” from Ireland who were brought to Iceland as slaves. A group of these Irish slaves escaped from Iceland proper and ended up here. Though they were caught and killed, at least these islands still bear their name. Meet Jörgen, my driver. Funny thing, he

From top: Hallgrímskirkja church in Reykjavík; A house buried in ash in Vestmannaeyjar; A mural in Reykjavík; Inside the Lebowski Bar; From London; From Seattle. Top four photos by Bob Ecker. refers to “the Islands” as if apart from Iceland. I thought it was Iceland… but they have a slightly different mentality here. The eruption in January of 1973 of the Eldfell Volcano drastically altered life on these islands. In some ways worse, in others for the better. He drove us past the remains of his grandmother’s home which was destroyed. Jörgen tells how many moved away but some returned to start a new life in the Westman Islands. We make it to an interesting museum, Eldheimar, which is built on and around actual burned and demolished buildings from the eruption. Inside there’s an entire house, three quarters covered in ash. It’s sobering. The audio guides work well and start talking when you get close to an exhibit. This is a modern museum. Much of the town was covered by ash from the volcano, but the critically important fishing harbor was saved, partially due to American help. I have a good cup of coffee in the museum café and contemplate what it must have been like during that eruption. I also hear that there’s a pretty fun local brewery called The Brothers Brewery on the islands. Ah well, I need to come back. I take the ferry back, drive to Reykjavík and head to one of my favorite spots, the Lebowski Bar. Yes, named for The Dude of The Big Lebowski fame. There are bowling pin taps and Lebowski paraphernalia all over. I have a White Russian—well, just because. Lots of fun. And then on to the airport for the next Icelandair leg, London. The flight from Keflavík is an easy three and half hours to Heathrow. The shuttle bus takes me to London’s main station and then there’s a quick walk to the lovely The Rubens at the Palace Hotel, not far from Buckingham Palace. Later that day I go to the National Portrait Gallery, a fantastic (and free) museum. I stop at a humble pub for some delightful fish & chips, stroll around and generally play tourist for a day. Didn’t see the Queen but did see the changing of the guards before heading back to The Rubens for a smart dinner at The English Grill. Love the chicken liver parfait. All too soon, I reverse my journey and fly home on Icelandair yet again. Icelandair Stopover / 45

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Looking out over Dýrafjörður fjord. Photo courtesy of Visit Westfjords.

MY TOWN:

SCREAMING INTO THE ABYSS, FOLLOWING YOUR BLISS

Ásrós (left) and Katla (right), the members of Between Mountains. Photo by Baldur Kristjáns.

It’s late January. There’s a snowstorm raging outside, the US government has shut down and the island is entirely sold out of kale, but all anyone is talking about in Iceland is the new video for “Into the Dark” that just dropped by Icelandic teen twee sensation Between Mountains. There’s weird dancing. Ominous, torchlit mountainscapes. Extreme weather. Group choreography set in a high school. It’s part voguing, part Children of the Corn, part semaphore training gone wild. I literally cannot stop watching it. Who are these kids? Where did they come from? The Westfjords. That’s where. 48 / My Town

From Underdogs to Wunderkind The teenage singer-songwriter duo made a huge splash at the 2017 Músíktilraunir (Iceland’s Battle of the Bands) where they ended up the surprise winners. “We had absolutely no expectations of getting to the finals, let alone placing or winning the whole thing,” Ásrós says. “It isn’t that I believed we weren’t good or didn’t have any potential,” adds Katla. “It’s just that it came so soon.” The competition has been a springboard for some of the biggest names to come out of Iceland’s music scene in recent years, like Of Monsters

Katla Vigdís Vernharðsdóttir and Ásrós Helga Guðmundsdóttir from Between Mountains speak with Icelandair Stopover’s Jonas Moody about their sudden success, the good life in the Westfjords and where the future leads.

and Men, Samaris and Pascal Pinon. Since taking home the title, Between Mountains has made a splash in the Icelandic music scene, including a big turnout for their performances at last year’s Aldrei fór ég suður festival in Ísafjörður and Iceland Airwaves in Reykjavík—and got quite a lot of international press for it as well. They don’t even have a record out and they’re not old enough to drink, but David Fricke is waxing poetic over their music in Rolling Stone. Whispy vocal harmonies floating over melodic instrumentations of keyboard, xylophone, guitar and accordion…

according to the band, the music is inspired from their home in the Westfjords. “I get a lot of influence from the landscape around me,” says Katla. “It always fascinates me how the weather is changing and how nature is constantly giving and taking at the same time. I don’t think my music would be the same way if I had lived somewhere else as a child.” Small Towns, Big Ambitions The northern Westfjords are a sparsely populated region of the country, carved deeply by fjords between towering mountains. Katla comes from the tiny fishing village

Suðureyri, Katla’s hometown, on a bright, snowy day. Photo courtesy of Visit Westfjords.

Below: Stills from the band’s video for “Into the Dark.” Courtesy of Hawk Björgvinsson/Chanel Björk.

Suðureyri in Súgandafjörður fjord while Ásrós comes from the even tinier settlement (can we even call it a village at this point? A hamlet?) of Núpur in Dýrafjörður fjord near the town Þingeyri. Between the two fjords, as you may have guessed by now, are mountains. Big, dramatic ones. Hence the band’s name: Between Mountains. Both musicians consider themselves lucky to call the Westfjords home. “It’s good to grow up in such a small place since you get to know all the people and everyone really supports what you’re doing,” says Ásrós. “That said, we don’t

have the kind of opportunities they have down south.” For Katla, her hometown has become a kind of touchstone in all the frenzy of their fame. “I am really thankful that I grew up in a small town and living there now is keeping me on the ground,” she says. “It can be frustrating sometimes to be traveling so much but I like it and wouldn’t want to be anywhere else at the moment.” With all their gigs the duo has logged a lot of miles on the travels between Reykjavík and the Westfjords, but this might explain the fondness they have for visitors who make their way to this far-flung corner of

Iceland. “A lot of tourists stop at Núpur these days,” says Ásrós, “and I really enjoy it, since there are so few people there to begin with.” In fact, Katla may have ended up in a few sightseeing snapshots. “I live in a beautiful, old house in Suðureyri so there are a lot of tourists who stop in front of it and take photos,” she says. “It doesn’t really bother me that much. I just think I’m lucky to live here!” Home Is Where the Harp Is What’s most striking about this area is simply how wide open and unpeopled the landscape is. And with so much open, empty space, many have

the irresistible urge to fill it up. Yelling, dancing, hurling yourself down mountainsides. It’s cathartic. Ásrós agrees. After a meal at Tjöruhúsið in nearby Ísafjörður, she most enjoys the Ingjaldssandur area, about 12 mi (20 km) from Núpur, for its untouched nature where she can “be someplace where I can play instruments and sing out loud to my heart’s content.” And while many people may cringe at the thought of watching the bars on their mobile phone disappear one by one, going off grid holds great appeal for the right frame of mind. “Ingjaldssandur is not just Icelandair Stopover / 49

a beautiful place but there is little to no Internet connection, so you just don’t have any distractions.” Her old family farm there, Ástún, has now become their summer house. Ásrós adds that there are few sights as stunning as “ending the day with a magnificent sunset down by the water, which is where you’ll find us on August evenings.” Katla also likes to take visitors to see a place connected to her family. “A little outside of my town is Staðardalur, a very beautiful valley where my grandmother is actually from. Just relax and enjoy, that’s the best way to get to know my 50 / My Town

home area. If it’s during the summer, I would try to take them to my favorite place in the world which is Fljótavík in Hornstrandir. It’s a nature reserve and the most beautiful place I know.” Life is still full of possibility for these two. “Who knows?” says Ásrós, “maybe I’ll be an astronomer or an architect or a singer or a police officer or an actor or just a street cleaner.” And even if they have to leave the mountains behind, they’ll take the music with them. “I know that whatever happens, my life will always have music in it,” says Katla. “I will always be surrounded by music.”

Top: Hikers traversing the shore at Ingjaldssandur. Bottom right: Walking along Ingjaldssandur at sunset. Bottom left: Tjöruhúsið restaurant in Neðstikaupstaður, the old town in Ísafjörður. Photos courtesy of Visit Westfjords. Icelandair is a sponsor of Músíktilraunir, which takes place every year at the end of March.

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ENDLESS ATTRACTION OF ICE SCULPTURES Crystal-like structures floating in clear glacial water, perfectly reflected in the smooth surface. Pieces of ice melting in the black sand, sparkling like diamonds in the sun. The ever-changing sky above: Bright blue; cloudy and moody; lit by millions of stars and dancing northern lights. There’s no coincidence that Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon is one of Iceland’s biggest attractions and most photographed locations. Tourists sail among the icebergs, marvel at nature’s creations and wave at curious seals that stick their heads out of the water. Jökulsárlón lagoon is situated in southeast Iceland at the edge of Vatnajökull National Park. It is fed with meltwater and ice that calves from outlet glacier Breiðamerkurjökull. As the glacier recedes, the lake grows, now covering an area of 6.9 sq mi (18 km2). The icebergs flow towards

the Atlantic and get stranded on Breiðamerkursandur beach. The lake gradually moves closer to the ocean; its borders currently lying at 0.93 mi (1.5 km) away from the shore. Photographers line the lagoon’s banks, day and night, patiently waiting for the perfect photo opportunity. The results are as diverse as they are many; here, three different photographers share a sample of their images from the glacial lagoon. Icelandair’s new Boeing 737 MAX 8 is named after Jökulsárlón. Read more about it on pages 4, 12 and 84.

BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR.

Photo by Siggi Anton.

Photo by Víðir Björnsson (Off to Iceland). 54 / Photography

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REMEMBERING JÓHANN JÓHANNSSON One of Iceland’s most successful musicians, Jóhann Jóhannsson—best known for his award-winning film score for The Theory of Everything—passed away on February 9. His manager and friend Tim Husom says he was “a special kind of composer,” whose life was all about making music. TEXT BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTO BY JÓNATAN GRÉTARSSON.

56 / Tribute

Jóhann Jóhannsson was only 48 when he died of unknown causes in his home in Berlin on February 9. Jóhann is survived by his daughter, parents and three sisters, and the world lost one of its most talented film composers. “He was the smartest person I knew. He devoured books. He was the kind of guy who watched movies I couldn’t understand—you know, he was one of these friends who tell you to watch something and you think, ‘Why the hell are you watching this!?’,” says Tim Husom, Jóhann’s manager. He and Jóhann go back seven years and were close friends, as was everyone who worked at Redbird Music management company. “We learned a lot together. I think we were such good friends because we had our roots planted where we came from, making music for the sake of making music. It’s been a great adventure.” Music Was His Life Music was Jóhann’s biggest passion. “It was absolutely his life, which is maybe why he was so good at it. Aside from family, it’s what made him most happy. For me, Sunday is a day of rest and I don’t even pick up the phone unless there’s an emergency, but he would be in the studio with his colleagues making music—seven days a week.” Born in Iceland in 1969, Jóhann began studying the piano and trombone at 11 but gave up academic musical training for studying literature and languages at university. Jóhann played and wrote music for various indie rock bands, including HAM, and co-founded electric ensemble Apparat Organ Quartet in 1999. From early on, Jóhann’s songwriting was experimental, combining classical and electronic elements. His influences ranged from composers like Gorecki, Arvo Pärt and Morton Feldman, as well as bands like Suicide, The Velvet Underground, The Stooges and Krautrock. His first solo album Englabörn appeared in 2002 and his ninth and last, Orphée, in 2016. Film Scoring Success In recent years, Jóhann spent a fair amount of his time writing music for film. In 2014, he won a Golden Globe Award for Best

Original Score for James Marsh’s The Theory of Everything about the life of the late Stephen Hawking, as well as receiving Oscar, Grammy and BAFTA nominations for the same film. The composer-director duo also collaborated on the score for Marsh’s The Mercy, which premiered only a few days before Jóhann died. He received his second Oscar nomination for his music in Denis Villeneuve’s Sicario in 2015, earned a nomination for a Golden Globe and BAFTA for his score in Arrival by the same director in 2016, and for a Grammy the following year. The pair had previously collaborated on Villeneuve’s Prisoners (2013). “He hated the limelight and after he started receiving nominations I had to drag him to the award ceremonies. He didn’t create music on any level to win an award— although, of course, he appreciated the respect of the film industry—but it definitely wasn’t his comfort zone,” reveals Tim.

melodic, breathy music, then less than a year later, this crazy, dark and evil score for Sicario,” Tim mentions as an example. Shortly before his death, Jóhann had been hired to write the score for Disney’s Christopher Robin, featuring Winnie-thePooh. “That would have been a whole other world to dive into,” he says. “It’s hard to place his music in one category. His studio albums were dark and orchestral. He definitely tried doing everything.” Tim adds that Jóhann made a point of working with independent filmmakers whom he admired, even though it wouldn’t earn him a lot of money. For example, he wrote the score for Panos Cosmatos’ thriller Mandy, which premiered in January and hits theaters in September. Jóhann’s latest film score which he co-wrote with fellow Icelander Hildur Guðnadóttir, was for biblical drama Maria Magdalene by director Garth Davis, which saw its UK premier in March.

“He created a sea-change in the film industry. His classical work inspired a lot of people and his approach was definitely one that no one had ever taken before.” Tim says Jóhann’s approach involved taking chances. “Like in Arrival, because the director invited him to be involved from the very beginning, he was creating music not based on pictures but what the film was about, extraterrestrial beings, and the message of the film. He created a whole different sound, mostly consisting of him recording different vocal sounds never heard before, and the director trusted him 100% with his vision. He took a lot of risks and followed his instinct. He was a special kind of composer,” states Tim. Jóhann’s objective was always being part of a filmmaking team and making the best movie possible and sometimes that meant taking a step back. Director Darren Aronofsky had asked him to write the score for his horror-drama Mother! (2017) but in the end they decided that an experimental soundscape would be a better fit and Jóhann’s music was never used in the film.

In addition to making film music and studio albums, Jóhann wrote music for theater, choirs and created art projects, including Drone Mass, a piece for string quartet, electronics and vocals, which ran at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2015. Jóhann also made films himself. His directorial debut, End of Summer, a documentary short, was released in 2015.

Tried Doing Everything Jóhann was an extremely versatile artist. “For The Theory of Everything he wrote

When asked about Jóhann’s biggest achievement, Tim responds: “Aside from the birth of his daughter… If you ask the public, they would say the Golden Globe for The Theory of Everything.” However, Jóhann himself was proudest of his multimedia piece The Last and First Men, which premiered at the 2017 Manchester International Festival. Narrated by Tilda Swinton, the project combines film and music to create a poetic meditation on memory, loss and the idea of Utopia. Tim and his team are planning to take the piece on an international tour. “That was his greatest accomplishment,” he declares. You can listen to Jóhann Jóhannsson’s music on the in-flight entertainment system.

Icelandair Stopover / 57

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BY LISA GAIL SHANNEN. PHOTOS BY ROMAN GERASYMENKO.

LOCAL HANGOUTS, HAUNTS AND HIDEAWAYS Reykjavík culture from the inside out.

Ívar at the Reykjavík seaside. Opposite page: From Ívar’s tour. The first time I ever saw Ívar Pétur Kjartansson he was crowd-surfing across a bouncing sea of ecstatic fans as his band performed at the Iceland Airwaves Music Festival. Today the FM Belfast drummer— who doubles as a certified guide—is dressed in his winter woollies and ready to take a small group of visitors On Tour With Ívar, a walk through a cultural realm of Reykjavík you don’t find on regular tours of the city.

Although Ívar usually starts off at Lucky Records—a record store and popular hangout for local musicians—today, because we’re still only 36 hours into the New Year, we’re meeting at KEX Hostel, where we’re treated to a seasonal platter of rye bread and assorted pickled herring, featuring an excellent version with blueberries. To wash it down, we’re introduced to a strange but delightful mango pale ale that I plan on meeting again.

Blueberry-Pickled Herring and Mango Ale Since I live in the city center, I was looking forward to trying out Ívar’s tour and keen to find out if he could surprise me. Ívar, who grew up in the small town of Seyðisfjörður in East Iceland, has been living in Reykjavík for most of his adult life, and as a local musician, he inhabits a unique subculture that most visitors don’t get access too. He himself is quick to point out that what he’s offering is far from conventional: “I’m the only guide, it’s not a travel company where you get a random guide, hence the name. The places we visit on the tour are my actual hangouts.”

Raven Reading the Newspaper Avoiding the high streets, as promised, and any other on-the-beaten path attractions, Ívar takes us on a zig-zag route around the city center, where we stop at some of his favorite spots. During the three-and-a-half-hour tour, we sample fabulous pastries and cocktails, and as we stroll between locations we listen to some fun firsthand anecdotes from the music and arts scene. At one point we were witness to a remarkable sight when one of Ívar’s stories was interrupted by a noisy raven (not part of the tour) who seemed to be curiously exploring the pages of a newspaper and loudly disagreeing with the contents.

60 / Culture

The afternoon was full of memorable moments like our visit to an artisan bakery where we could see the bread being made by the baker, who is also a notable local musician. But the highlight of the tour was Ívar himself, and the time we spent with him was truly enlightening, even for a local like me. After having lived in the city center for over a decade I was surprised to discover a number of hidden spaces and places where cultural history was made. While it’s definitely geared towards those interested in music and the arts, from what I experienced you don’t need to be a serious consumer of that side of culture to enjoy it.

You can find an interview with Ívar and bandmate Lóa from FM Belfast in the documentary Iceland Airwaves – A Musical Microcosm featured on Icelandair’s in-flight entertainment system.

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Northern lights above Reykhólar.

#MYSTOPOVER:

WHERE THE NORTHERN LIGHTS DANCE Traveling with a camper in the Westfjords of Iceland.

It’s early February 2017 and I’m about to embark on a journey of the far north of Iceland with my friend Taro to photograph winter landscapes and northern lights. However, as we approach Keflavík disappointment sinks in. The gray landscape around us doesn’t match our expectation of Iceland in winter as shaped by travel guides and photo books. But our mood picks up when we arrive at the car rental company. Like little boys with sparks in our eyes, we face our 4x4 van. Its jacked-up chassis and all-terrain tires on large black rims make an impression and make us laugh with excitement. The interior has plenty of room for a little table during the day and two sleeping bags during the night.

Icelandic horses are kept outside all year round. 62 / #MyStopover

Up North Our plan is to do a roundtrip of the Westfjords; follow the Ring Road to the North and encircle the peninsula clockwise, then drive back to Reykjavík and catch the south coast before our return flight—all in

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY FRANK WIEDEMEIER.

12 days. To stay on schedule we have to travel 124 mi (200 km) per day. However, it seems that the word “diversion” was invented in Iceland. This year’s mild winter means shades of brown. These, combined with a broad spectrum of blue and the scarce snow—which almost looks like powdered sugar—make the landscape, reduced in its forms, something special. In front of each hill, we wonder what we can expect behind it. First we follow the Ring Road from Reykjavík through Borgarnes up to Dalsmynni, then turn onto Road 60 until we reach Flókalundur. From there we continue along Road 62 to Patreksfjörður on the western tip of the Westfjords peninsula. Gradually, the snow cover grows more condense and the road leads up a slope. This is closer to our expectation of Iceland and excitement builds up, until, suddenly, we stand in front of a barrier, shortly after passing through Bíldudalur on Road 63. A sign warns us

Hraunfossar, one of the many waterfalls we drove past.

Jökulsárlón. The lights of the car illuminate the ice.

Northern lights at Reykhólar.

Deildartunguhver hot spring.

Skeiðarárjökull, an outlet glacier of Vatnajökull.

By Reykjanesviti lighthouse on Reykjanes. Icelandair Stopover / 63

From top: By Reykjanesviti lighthouse on Reykjanes; The strong wind blows the waterfall upwards. Seen while traveling from Jöklusárlón to Vík.

that if we travel any further and get stuck, we have to cover the rescue costs ourselves. An adventure for single persons, perhaps, but rationality wins and fathers buckle. Journey of Discovery Whoever has a Plan A should be able to pull Plan B out of his pocket when needed. On the website of the Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration, road.is, we search for a different path to Ísafjörður. Our plan: We drive almost all the way back, nearly down to Króksfjarðarnes, take Road 61—which seems like a good bypass to get further north— to Hólmavík and onwards to Ísafjörður. The return trip, initially seen as a necessary evil, becomes our new journey of discovery. Winter days in Iceland are short, and halfway back darkness falls. We find ourselves in Reykhólar in the southern Westfjords when we witness a gigantic spectacle. What announces itself with a grayish glow in the night blue 64 / #MyStopover

sky, then grows—directly above us—into a delicately dancing green veil, which changes constantly and so rapidly from one second to the next that we can no longer keep up with our photography and feel overwhelmed by amazement. We’re witnessing the northern lights. Expect the Unexpected The next day, we continue along our new route, Road 61, towards Hólmavík. It’s the perfect adventure for sensible fathers: ice, wind, snow—and passable roads. Ísafjörður, here we come! Just before we reach Hólmavík, we check the road conditions between Hólmavík and Ísafjörður on road. is. To our surprise, in the last few hours the driving condition of our new route changed from “difficult driving” to “difficult condition.” We hesitate. What if the conditions worsen? What if we get stuck? We have to drive the whole way back and the aircraft won’t wait for us. Our lesson is this: It’s nice to have a plan, but on a tour like this, especially in winter,

expect the unexpected. This makes traveling much easier. So, we take a turn to the south. First to Reykjavík, then along the south coast to Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon. We hope to get a splendid view of Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Iceland. Our idea for a picture: Northern lights, directly above the glacier, in front of the glacial lagoon. Immediately after we arrive, we take a position in a parking lot. The clouds disappear; the stars shine. Ideal conditions until, at the crucial moment, new banks of clouds appear and block the view. The highlight of the evening is ruined. Our disappointment is limited, though, as we already have “our” northern lights in the box. Where the Winds Blow After 11 days, the tachometer reads 1,429 mi (2,300 km) and we have arrived at the extreme southwest of Reykjanes peninsula. The Atlantic Ocean crashes against the rocky shore; it’s hardly possible to stand still in the strong wind. Once again, we experience a completely different side to Iceland. Satisfied, we continue to the last highlight of the trip: The Blue Lagoon. With green mud masks on our faces, we swim through the milky water and feel the heat creep back into our bodies after being exposed to cold and stormy weather. In the lagoon, there’s an illuminated map of the world. “When we get home tomorrow, we have to tell our families what our next destination will be,” I say, looking inquisitively at Taro. “OK, where should we go next?” he asks. “Namibia,” I reply; “It should be warm there!”

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT

SAGA SHOP KITCHEN Our meals are served in environmentally-friendly packaging that features interesting information about Icelandic nature. The children’s box also has some activities printed on it. In our Economy classes, we do our best to serve quick and fresh food for everyone.

Children between 2 and 11 years of age receive a complimentary meal box on all flights.

Saga Premium passengers enjoy complimentary wine and beer.

Passengers in Saga Premium enjoy complimentary meals and have a variety to choose from.

All non-alcoholic beverages are complimentary on all classes.

We offer a selection of Icelandic delicacies, including hjónabandssæla, a jamfilled oatmeal cake known as “wedded bliss.”

Skyr – eat like an Icelander A healthy dairy product from Iceland. If a certain spinach-loving cartoon character had know skyr, he’d have been infinitely stronger.

Please see the menu in the seat pocket in front of you for a complete selection of what is available on this flight. We welcome your feedback on the dining experience on board. Please drop us a line at kitchen@icelandair.is with any comments. Verði þér að góðu! Bon appétit! 68 / Saga Shop Kitcen

Icelandair Stopover / 68

Icelandair Stopover / 69

DO YOU FLY REGULARLY WITH ICELANDAIR? Our Frequent Flyer Program, Icelandair Saga Club, has multiple benefits for all members as well as special offers and benefits for our most frequent flyers who have acquired Saga Silver and Saga Gold status.

Saga Gold and Saga Silver benefits:

Members can earn from 850 to 7,200 Tier Points for each leg with Icelandair and need 40,000 Tier Points to become a Saga Silver member and 80,000 Tier Points to become a Saga Gold member.

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ICELANDAIR @WORK Icelandair Launches New Website Icelandair proudly launched its new website in early March. Aiming to be the leading airline in digital, the web team spent months developing the new concept based on Icelandair’s philosophy that all travel experience should be enjoyable, including booking the ticket. The new website focuses on simplicity and ease of use. You can search anything you want and get an answer instantly. Just type in “baggage allowance” or “cost of transporting golf equipment” and you’ll get your answer straight away without having to click around an information section. The new website also seeks to inspire prospective travelers, providing all the information you could ever need about Icelandair’s destinations, and not just about the most popular sights but insider information about hidden natural gems and local hangouts for an authentic travel and cultural experience. Icelandair.com—Your next adventure is just a search away! Photo: KSÍ.

Flying Fans to the World Cup On the occasion of Iceland qualifying for the 2018 FIFA World Cup in men’s football in Russia—making history in the process as the world’s smallest nation ever to have qualified for the World Cup—Icelandair will offer direct flights to the cities in Russia where Iceland will be playing: Moscow, Volgograd and Rostov on June 16, 22 and 26. The Icelandic fan club with their famous “Viking Clap” were a fixed feature at Iceland’s games at the 2016 Euros in France and a game at the World Cup would not be complete without them. Therefore—as a proud sponsor of Iceland’s sporting heroes—Icelandair wants to give all dedicated fans the chance to travel to the World Cup, even if this means making detours from the airline’s regular route map. Read about Iceland’s journey to Russia on pages 30, 32 and 34. 72 / News

With the 2018 FIFA World Cup coming up in June, fans are taking advantage of Icelandair’s direct flights to Iceland’s first three games. Icelandair is also celebrating new aircraft, new destinations and a new website. From San Francisco.

FIVE NEW US DESTINATIONS Icelandair announced in January the return of the airline’s international service to San Francisco International Airport (SFO) and Baltimore-Washington International Airport (BWI). Seasonal flights to San Francisco will begin on June 1, 2018 with four non-stop flights a week to Iceland on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, and to Baltimore on May 28, 2018 with four non-stop flights a week to Iceland on Mondays, Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays. In addition, seasonal service to the heartland of America with flights to Kansas City International Airport (MCI) will commence on May 25, 2018.

Icelandair’s Kansas City service will offer three non-stop flights a week from Iceland, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. Icelandair had previously announced that flights to Dallas and Cleveland would being in summer 2018. Travelers from all five destinations—as on all Icelandair flights—have the opportunity to make a stopover in Iceland at no extra airfare from three to an unlimited number of days, depending on the type of ticket. From Iceland, there are easy connections to and from more than 25 destinations in Europe. In summer 2018, Icelandair will launch flights to Dublin, Ireland.

Enjoy 737 Transatlantic IPA To celebrate the arrival of Jökulsárlón, our new Boeing 737 MAX 8 aircraft, Icelandair partnered up with Boyne BrewHouse in Ireland to brew a special edition Icelandair Pale Ale (IPA). Its blend of Pacific Northwest hops and European malts is a refreshing homage to the Icelandair journeys it will take you on. As of mid-April, the beer will be available on board all Icelandair planes—for free if you’re flying Saga Premium or Saga Premium Flex. Sit back, relax, enjoy the 737 Transatlantic IPA and celebrate with Icelandair. Cheers! Read more about Jökulsárlón on pages 4, 12 and 84.

SPRINGTIME IN PORTLAND AWAITS

Spring is the time to visit Portland, when the gardens come to life and the tulips are in bloom. Indulge in its exciting food culture, stroll along its lively waterfront, or enjoy some of the many excellent museums and galleries this hip and vibrant city has to offer.

Icelandair Stopover / 73

A THOUSAND WORDS Thanks to Instagram, Facebook and Twitter, you can share your travel experience with the world. Check out this selection of recent images from our passengers who tagged their pictures with the #MyStopover tag. Pretty great, right? In upcoming issues, we will feature the best pics by users who include the #MyStopover tag. Happy snapping! Join us

Please note that by using the #MyStopover hashtag, you are granting us permission to use your image in our magazine or on our social media channels.

Reykjavík from above, wrapped up in a blanket of snow. #icelandair #MyStopover. I kathiotreba I Kathi Otreba

“Tranquility” Here’s a rather conventional view of supposedly the most photographed mountain in the world. However you won’t find too many images of it with the landscape in such a pristine state I magichourtravelscapes I Kah Kit Yoong

The cutest bunny I have ever seen. I snorrijons I Snorri S. Jónsson Chose your Side. I moussti I Timothée Lambrecq When your most beautiful memories about summer aren’t looking like summer at all. I marinaweishaupt I Marina Weishaupt

I don’t know what I love the most about Iceland, stunning landscapes or those beautiful horses, one of the purest breeds in the world. The unique and exceptional animal. A road trip in Iceland really isn’t complete without petting a local horse or two, or all of them. Just look in those perfect eyes full of sincerity. I torykvinna I Victoria Gubanova

74 / Instagram

Fractured earth adjacent to active geothermal vents on the Reykjanes peninsula in Iceland. A scene found in close proximity to my previous post, but photographed nearly 3 weeks later. I peytonhale I Peyton Hale

Sky high • shot on iPhone 6s I ameture.photography I Aisling Harris

Remember to choose a seat by the window when you visit this land of ice and fire, you will definitely be surprised by the view down below and won’t wanna close your eyes @icelandair #mystopover. I tongyumii I Tong Yimin

The retired vessel guarding Höfn Harbour. I mattmneary I Matt Neary

The local residents of the famous Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. A must-see if you visit Iceland. These guys were just chilling on the other side of the lagoon, inaccessible by foot. Thankfully, I had the drone and got pretty close to the lil beauties without spooking them. Awesome times. I mikescott2 I Michael Scott

After visiting 8 countries in 2017, Iceland is definitely the one I had a crush on … I thomaslcmt I Thomas Lecomte

Small turf houses from Skaftafell / Vatnajökull National Park that look like elves’ houses. I cecile.soukhavong I Cécile Colucci-Soukhavong

Are you far away with your kids too? Icelandair knows how to entertain kids. Our little princess got a nice package that kept her really busy. She got playing cards and with her own rules she found the best pictures ever. Best entertainment for the whole trip to be continued at home. I lahdetaantaas I Teija Kohijoki

Siglufjörður, a little town hidden in a fjord along Iceland’s northern coast. It was the herring capital of the country until the 1970’s when the fish suddenly disappeared. I andreas__jansen I Andreas Jansen

Not far from the famous Laugavegur track lies this stunning and colourful place. But to reach it you have to cross some freezing cold rivers … As a reward there are no crowds and this otherworldly view. I jan.knebel I Jan Knebel

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CHILDREN’S CORNER:

ADVENTURE IN THE WESTMAN ISLANDS The Icelandic animals from Treasure Iceland are best buddies. One of the things they love most is traveling to new places in Iceland. This time Katla the puffin is taking them to her home in Vestmannaeyjar—the Westman Islands.

It was a lovely sunny spring day and the five friends were preparing for their trip. “We’re lucky the weather’s so good,” Katla told them. “Sailing to the islands is impossible in bad weather!” Her friends thought this sounded very exciting—all except Mosi the ram, who thought staying home would be safer. But his friends soon convinced him it was going to be an adventure he wouldn’t want to miss. “Oh well, as long as my wool doesn’t get wet,” he said, and off they went. The friends were soon on board the Westman Islands ferry. Halfway there, poor Freyja the horse got a little seasick. But all discomfort was forgotten as soon as they saw the islands rising from the ocean. How beautiful they were! And all those seabirds soaring around the cliffs! Flóki, being a raven and always up for a chat, immediately took to the skies to ask the feathered locals for the latest gossip. “Get back down here you chatterbox!” Katla laughed. “Or you’ll miss the boat!” Suddenly, the cliffs seemed to magically open up and a lovely little harbor town full of colorful houses came into view. Skotta the sheepdog got really excited and started barking. “I wonder if there are any sheep here that I can herd!” Mosi looked annoyed. “Most likely just puffins for you to herd,” he said. “There are more than 10 million puffins on these islands—it’s the largest puffin colony in the world.”

BY SIGRÍÐUR ÁSTA ÁRNADÓTTIR. ILLUSTRATIONS BY HEIDI WARNER.

76 / Kids

Katla, hatched and raised in the Westman Islands, proved to be an excellent guide. She showed them the town and told them that about 45 years ago, a volcano had erupted and glowing lava had flowed over a part of the houses. Fortunately, all ships had been in harbor and took the people to safety. Her friends could hardly believe this

shocking story but there was no mistake: A thick lava field could be seen right in the middle of the town. Freyja got tears in her eyes thinking of people’s homes buried underneath it. The atmosphere brightened as the gang entered Katla’s puffin colony, bustling with life. Flóki and Skotta of course felt right at home where things were happening and made fast friends with the amiable puffins. “The noise!” Mosi grumbled. “But at least my wool still is dry.” Katla showed them a cozy puffin hole, which is where the puffins lay their single egg and raise their chick. “Hullo!” A friendly puffin stuck his head out and soon afterwards the head of a cute little puffin chick followed. “Want to come in?” Flóki and Katla eagerly accepted. But the others were just too big! The chick, introducing herself as Pysja, offered to show the larger animals something fun instead. Skotta, Mosi and Freyja followed her to a cliff where some local children were dangling from ropes, kicking their feet against the cliff and having a great time. “They call it sprang and it’s a special Westman Islands game,” Pysja told them. “The kids of the Island are great friends to us puffin chicks. If we get lost on our way to the shore to catch fish, they find us and bring us there safely.” After an exciting day in the Westman Islands, the five friends sailed back home. This had been a day they’d never forget.

If you want to play with the animals of Treasure Iceland, check out our on-board kids’ material. If you didn’t get it already, just ask the friendly flight attendant.

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WE MAKE A POINT OF REWARDING CUSTOMERS FOR LOYALTY Did you know that members of Icelandair Saga Club earn Saga Points for all Icelandair flights, for their purchases on board and with our partners around the world? These little points pack a lot of punch.

Joining is easyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;you can sign up online on your mobile device or computer right now. Go to Icelandair.com or find the application form in the Saga Shop Collection section of the magazine.

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By joining Icelandair Saga Club you can: Book flights with your Saga Points

Buy products and refreshments on board with your Points

Acquire Saga Silver or Saga Gold status with increased benefits by flying regularly with Icelandair

Earn Saga Points through Booking.com and Rentalcars.com

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STOPOVER ICELAND:

OUR TOP PICKS With so much you can pack into an Icelandair stopover, the options can feel overwhelming. So, we keep it simple: Four new themes and four fresh suggestions every issue. Take your pick.

Ice Cream Icelanders love ice cream parlors even in the depths of winter, and on a warm sunny day, you’ll find lines out the door. Which is fine— you’ll need a moment to ponder your order. The classic choice is light and milky soft serve, the perfect vehicle for candy, sauces and dips. It also shines in the bragðarefur (literally, “flavor fox”), a custom blend of ice cream and your choice of treats. You can find this at just about any neighborhood creamery, though we recommend the 1950s-style Ísbúð Vesturbæjar in Reykjavík, and Brynjuís in Akureyri, which may be the best-loved ice cream shop in the country. Recent years have also seen a boom in gelato shops, which include Reykjavík favorites Valdís, close to the harbor, and the newly-opened Skúbb, near Laugardalslaug pool. The dairy diner at Efstidalur II near Laugarvatn is also a must if you’re in the area. And if you’re lactose intolerant, don’t despair. Arna dairy company does lactosefree ice cream, and Joylato in downtown Reykjavík offers six vegan-friendly flavors. Lighthouses Since 1878, Iceland’s lighthouses have kept watchful eyes over the nation’s intrepid sailors. Most of them are still active and well maintained, and each has its own distinctive charm. One of the most popular to visit is Grótta lighthouse in Seltjarnarnes. It’s an easy bus ride from downtown Reykjavík, but make sure you time it carefully—the ocean swallows the walkway at high tide. If you’re road-tripping around the country, other detour-worthy spots include the clifftop Dyrhólaey lighthouse, a fortresslike structure with views of the iconic south coast; and Hópsnes lighthouse in 80 / Stopover Iceland

Reykjanes, a distinctive golden rectangle that’s also close to several interesting shipwrecks. And if you want to explore a lighthouse from the inside, check out the larger of the two lighthouses in Akranes, West Iceland. It also hosts exhibitions and concerts, and the view from the top is worth the glute workout. Camping Camping in Iceland is more than just a cheap way to travel; it’s an adventure in its own right. Indeed, few experiences can beat sleeping under the stars—or if you’re here in summer, sleeping under the midnight sun. Although it’s possible to camp out in the wilderness under special circumstances, we recommend staying at one of the country’s numerous campsites. Not only does this help keep you safe, it also protects our delicate nature. (Also: Plumbing.) Some of the best spots include the Húsafell campgrounds in West Iceland; the two sites at Ásbyrgi in the North; and the Atlavík campsite in Hallormsstaðaskógur forest in the East. However, there are picturesque, well-equipped campsites all over the country. If you plan on staying at several, it’s worth investing in a Camping Card, which gives you access to over 40 of them. And no worries if you don’t own a tent; you can rent equipment once you get here.

As always in Iceland, come prepared for all conditions, let people know of your whereabouts, and leave nature as pristine you found it. Kids Even in clean, safe, child-friendly Iceland, traveling with small people can be a bit daunting. Luckily, there are plenty of kidpleasing options to curb the are-we-thereyets. For young animal lovers, petting zoos are a safe bet. Try the Family Park and Zoo in Reykjavík, which has a mix of Icelandic species and farm animals, alongside an excellent playground and a handful of rides. And if you’re passing through the southwest, set aside a couple of hours for Slakki Mini Zoo, where you’ll find plenty of cute creatures, as well as a mini-golf course. While these are great options for the youngsters, older kids and teens will find more appeal in horseback riding and whale- and puffin-watching tours, which are available around the country. There are also a number of excellent museums worth checking out, particularly in the capital. Two of the best are the brand new Perlan Museum, where you can hike through the world’s first indoor ice cave; and the Whales of Iceland Museum, which features life-size models of all of Iceland’s cetaceans.

And no discussion of kid-friendly Iceland would be complete without a mention of the geothermal pools. There’s one in just about every town and village in the country, and many have children’s play areas and water slides. Last but not least, if you happen to be in Reykjavík between April 17 and 22, check out the Children’s Culture Festival, which you can read about on page 10.

1 Ísbúðin Valdís is situated in a converted bait shed by Reykjavík harbor. 2 Delicious flavors at Valdís. Photos 1 and 2: courtesy of Valdís. 3 A sunbathing seal at the Family Park and Zoo in Reykjavík. 4 Icelandic goats at the Family Park and Zoo. Photos 3 and 4: courtesy of the Family Park and Zoo.

6 Arctic fox at Slakki. 7 Outdoor seating at Slakki. Photos 5, 6 and 7: courtesy of Slakki Petting Zoo. 8 Malarrif lighthouse on Snæfellsnes peninsula. Photo by Jack Anstey. 9 Camping by Mt. Kaldbakur in the Westfjords. Photo by Piviso.

5 Hungry calves at Slakki in South Iceland. Icelandair Stopover / 81

Iceland’s uniquely central location THE ICELANDAIR between Europe and North America the key to Icelandair’s hub-andROUTE NETWORK isspoke network, which our efficient, fleet of Boeing 737 MAX, AND AIRCRAFT FLEET economical 757 and 767 aircraft is perfectly suited to serve.

ANCHORAGE

HELSINKI VANCOUVER SEATTLE

STOCKHOLM EDMONTON

OSLO GOTHENBURG BERGEN COPENHAGEN

PORTLAND

SAN FRANCISCO ICELAND

BILLUND BERLIN HAMBURG FRANKFURT MUNICH AMSTERDAM GLASGOW BRUSSELS ZURICH MANCHESTER MILAN DUBLIN LONDON PARIS GENEVA HEATHROW & GATWICK ORLY & CDG

DENVER MINNEAPOLIS / ST. PAUL

MADRID CHICAGO TORONTO KANSAS CITY CLEVELAND DALLAS

MONTREAL

BALTIMORE HALIFAX BOSTON WASHINGTON D.C. PHILADELPHIA NEW YORK JFK & NEWARK

TAMPA BAY

82 / Route Map and Fleet

ORLANDO

THE NAMES OF OUR AIRCRAFT

Each of our aircraft is named after an Icelandic volcano or glacier. Passengers boarding the plane can see a sign with an illustration of the volcano or glacier in question, explaining its name and giving some basic information about it. BLÁFJALL | TF-FIK | BLAU-fyatl | A table mountain in North Iceland. From its flat top it offers climbers an astounding view over one of the most beautiful creations of Mother Nature, Lake Mývatn. BÚRFELL* | TF-FIW | BOOR-fetl | Name of a table volcano located close to the scenic Þjórsárdalur valley. One of the biggest hydroelectric power stations of Iceland was built at the foot of this mountain.

HLÖÐUFELL | TF-ISO | HLEU-thu-fetl | This a tuya volcano 6 mi (10 km) southwest of Langjökull glacier. Hlöðufell was formed when lava erupted through a thick ice sheet that covered all of Iceland during the Pleistocene epoch. JÖKULSÁRLÓN* | TF-ICE | YUH-kuls-aur-loan | Jökulsárlón is a picturesque glacial lagoon in southeast Iceland. Floating on its blue surface are magnificent icebergs from Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Europe.

DYNGJUFJÖLL | TF-ISS | DEENG-iu-fiudl | Volcanic highland massif in North Iceland. The famous Askja caldera, a popular tourist destination, is situated in Dyngjufjöll.

KATLA | TF-FIV | KAT-la | Volcano beneath the ice sheet of the South Iceland glacier Mýrdalsjökull. The last eruption of Katla was in 1918.

EIRÍKSJÖKULL | TF-ISZ | AY-reeks-yuh-kutl | According to legend, an outlaw named Eiríkur escaped from his pursuers by cartwheeling to the top of the highest mountain in West Iceland. This volcano, formed by subglacial activity, was later named in his honor.

KEILIR | TF-ISJ | KAY-leer | Cone-shaped volcano that was created subglacially and is located on the Reykjanes Peninsula to the south of Reykjavík, from where it can be viewed as a well-known landmark. It rises to 1,243 ft (379 m) and consists primarily of hyaloclastite and pillow lavas.

ELDBORG | TF-FIN | ELD-borg | The name of an extinct volcanic crater in the west of Iceland, one of the country’s most beautifully formed.

KETILDYNGJA | TF-ISR | KETTIL-deengja | This is a shield volcano southeast of the famous Lake Mývatn, formed as a resu lt of an eruption in Ketildyngja about 3,800 years ago.

ELDFELL | TF-ISK | ELD-fetl | On Heimaey, one of the Westman Islands, is a volcanic cone formed during a surprise 1973 eruption not far from the centre of one of the most important fishing villages in Iceland. No one was hurt. ELDGJÁ | TF-ISP | ELD-giau | The largest volcanic fissure in the world, 25 mi (40 km) long. Into it plunges the spectacular Ófærufoss waterfall, which until 1993 had a natural stone bridge extending over it. The bridge broke in a glacial flood. EYJAFJALLAJÖKULL | TF-FII | AY-ya-fyat-la-yuh-kutl (good luck!) | A relatively small ice cap in South Iceland, just west of the much larger Mýrdalsjökull glacier. Eyjafjallajökull covers the caldera of a volcano with a summit elevation of 5,466 ft (1,666 m). The most recent eruption in Eyjafjallajökull was in April 2010. GRÁBRÓK | TF-ISV | GRAU-broke | A crater that was formed in a fissure eruption in West Iceland less than 3,000 years ago. Children love running up to the top of this friendly volcano, which stands just a few metres from the road. GRÍMSVÖTN | TF-FIS | GREEMZ-vutn | A volcano and a series of subglacial lakes in South East Iceland on the Vatnajökull glacier. Grímsvötn has one of the highest eruption frequencies in Iceland; the last was in May 2011. GULLBORG | TF-ISW | GUTL-borg | Means the Golden Fortress and refers to the beautiful regular round shape of this extinct crater in western Iceland. HEKLA AURORA | TF-FIU | HEK-la au-RO-ra | Iceland’s most famous volcano, which last erupted in 2000. The aircraft was renamed Hekla Aurora in 2014 and repainted in northern lights livery for our #MyStopover campaign. HELGAFELL | TF-FIT | HEL-gah-fetl | A dormant cone volcano on the outskirts of an important fishing town in the Westman Islands. Its neighbour, Eldfell, was formed in an eruption in 1973. HENGILL | TF-FIX | HEN-gitl | Volcanic system not far from Reykjavík. The most recent eruption has been radiocarbon dated to about 1,900 years ago. Hellisheiði Geothermal Plant is situated at Hengill. The estimated production capacity for the completed Hellisheiði plant is 300 MW of electricity and 400 MW of thermal energy. HERÐUBREIÐ | TF-FIA | HARE-theu-braith | An extinct volcano in the Highlands of North Iceland. It is a “tuya,” a volcano formed under a glacier. Many Icelanders consider Herðubreið to be the most beautiful mountain in Iceland.

KRAFLA | TF-FIO | KRAB-la | Caldera about 6 mi (10 km) in diameter and is in a 56-mi (90-km) fissure zone, in the north of Iceland in the Mývatn region. Krafla’s highest peak reaches 818 m. There have been 29 reported eruptions in recorded history, the last of which occurred between 1975 and 1984. LAKI | TF-ISF | LAH-kih | Laki is the name of a volcanic fissure and mountain in southern Iceland. The largest lava eruption in recorded history began here on June 8, 1783. MAGNI | TF-FIC | MAG-nih | Name of one of the two craters that were tailor-made for tourists in the first stage of the Eyjafjallajökull eruption in March 2010. SKJALDBREIÐUR | TF-LLX | SKYALD-bray-ther | An extinct shield volcano in the vicinity of Þingvellir, the South Iceland site of the old Icelandic parliament, or Alþing. Skjaldbreiður is estimated to be around 9,000 years old. SNÆFELL | TF-FIP | SNEYE-fetl | Snæfell, an extinct volcano northeast of Vatnajökull glacier. It has been dormant for at least 10,000 years. SNÆFELLSJÖKULL | TF-ISD | SNEYE-fetls-yuh-kutl | Extinct stratovolcano in western Iceland. The entrance to the centre of the Earth is to be found at its top. Some even believe it is a landing site for extraterrestrials. SURTSEY | TF-FIJ | SEURT-say | Off the coast of South Iceland, a young island that grew up from the ocean floor during a volcanic eruption in 1963. SVÖRTUBORGIR | TF-ISN | SWUR-tuh-boregear | A row of volcanic craters west of Námafjall near Lake Myvatn. This cone row was created in an eruption 2000 years ago. TORFAJÖKULL | TF-ISY | TOR-va-yuh-kutl | Is in the Highlands of South Iceland and is named after Torfi, an Icelandic historical figure. During the plague in 1493, he is said to have found shelter there with his family. VATNAJÖKULL | TF-FIR | VAT-na-yuh-kutl | Europe’s largest glacier, covering 8% of Iceland’s surface. Six volcanoes lie underneath it, including Bárðarbunga, which caused the Holuhraun eruption in 2014– 2015. ÖRÆFAJÖKULL | TF-ISL | EU-rye-va-yuh-kutl | The largest active volcano in Iceland, and on its north-western side is Hvannadalshnjúkur, the highest peak in the country. It has not erupted since the 18th century.

* Wi-Fi is not currently available on Búrfell and Jökulsárlón as a new system is being installed. This new state-of-the-art Wi-Fi system will be implemented across all of Icelandair’s fleet in the coming months.

Icelandair Stopover / 83

WE ARE ADDING TO OUR FLEET IN 2018

These new aircraft will further enhance our passengers’ travel experience. We are especially proud of next year’s addition: Our first Boeing 737 MAX 8, a brand-new Boeing design that features both much quieter engines and a completely redesigned cabin space for extra comfort. BOEING 737-MAX 8 Number of seats: 160 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy Light, Economy Standard and Economy Flex, and 2-2 in Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex Length: 138’2" / 42.11 m Wingspan: 117’10" / 35.92 m Cruising speed: 521 mph / 839 km/h Maximum range: 3,515 NM / 6,510 km Maximum take-off weight: 181,200 lb / 82,189 kg Engine: (two) CFM International LEAP-1B

BOEING 757-300 Number of seats: 225 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy Class and Economy Comfort, and 2-2 in Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex Length: 178’7" / 54.5 m Wingspan: 134’7" / 41 m Cruising speed: 544 mph / 851 km/h Maximum range: 3,200 NM / 5,100 km Maximum take-off weight: 273,000 lb / 123,800 kg Engine: (two) RB211-535E4-B BOEING 757-200 Number of seats: 183–184 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy Light, Economy Standard and Economy Flex, and 2-2 in Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex Length: 155’2" / 47.3 m Wingspan: 134’9" / 41.1 m Cruising speed: 544 mph / 851 km/h Maximum range: 3,900 NM / 6,300 km Maximum take-off weight: 250,000 lb / 113,400 kg Engine: (two) RB211-535E4 Maximum range based on full passenger load. BOEING 767-300 Number of seats: 262 Seating arrangement: 2-3-2 in Light, Economy Standard and Economy Flex, and 2-1-2 in Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex Length: 180’3"″ / 50.88 m Wingspan: 166’11" / 50.88 m Cruising speed: 544 mph / 851 km/h Maximum range: 6,890 NM / 11,090 km Maximum take-off weight: 412,000 lb / 186,880 kg Engine: (two) GE CF6-80C2B6F

84 / Our Fleet

DISCOVERING ICELAND IN THE SKY Whether you’re flying with us today en route to or from Iceland, or between Europe and North America with a short airport stopover, we’d like you to feel as if you’ve learned a little bit about our country during the flight. We’re very proud of our Icelandic heritage and culture and hope we’re able to share that enthusiasm with you. Take a look around you now. You should spot several little glimpses of Iceland, but if you want to catch them all, here’s our cheat sheet: The music as you boarded was composed and performed by Icelandic artists. Like it? It’s from our Icelandair Spotify playlist. You can check out the playlist in our in-flight entertainment system. Our menu selection features Icelandic ingredients and snacks like hjónabandssæla (oat-and-jam square) and awardwinning lager.

We are very proud of our ancient language. You’ll see some samples of Icelandic, which is a North Germanic language, throughout the cabin. Some headrests show Icelandic translations of some common phrases in English, while pillow covers show a popular traditional lullaby both in Icelandic and in translation. The paper cups list the different words used in Icelandic for cups, and the napkins tell you about Iceland’s first settlers. Our in-flight entertainment system features numerous Icelandic films, documentaries and television programs, as well as an exclusive documentary called Unique Iceland, which will introduce you to some of the country’s highlights for visitors. We’re so proud of our volcanoes and glaciers, that we’ve even named our aircraft after them. After all, Iceland is the land of fire and ice! Each one bears the moniker of an Icelandic volcano, including

Icelandair’s travel experience introduces you to our special country Katla and the famously unpronounceable Eyjafjallajökull, which actually doubles as a glacier. Vatnajökull is our first aircraft named after a glacier only. At the risk of being immodest, we think our water is the best tasting water in the world. Try it for yourself on this flight. We serve refreshing Icelandic Glacial water throughout the trip. On some lucky aircraft you’ll find mood lighting, like on Vatnajökull: The blue LED lighting in the cabin creates the illusion of being inside an ice cave, while on Hekla Aurora it feels as if you’re watching the northern lights dancing in the Icelandic winter sky. We hope you enjoy your flight with us.

Icelandair Stopover / 85

OUR IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Dear Passenger, On this flight you have access to a personal in-flight entertainment system, and these pages offer a sneak peek into our selection. Since we always aim to offer interesting and relevant material on board our flights, we update our selection regularly. Have a browse through the content on the screen in front of you to see everything we offer this time around.

NEW

The selection is quite varied, and we try to offer the latest Hollywood blockbusters of the season. We’ve also dedicated a category to All-Time Classics, where some of the carefully selected films are available for a whole year, allowing you to revisit some of your favorites each time you fly with us.

AUDIO BOOKS

Language: Icelandic and/or English

Endalokin Young Adult I 4:30 hr.

Skálmöld Historical Novel I 5:05 hr.

Laðaðu til þín það góða Self-Help I 2:40 hr.

Mistur Crime I 6:47 hr.

When Baldvin and Inga’s next-door neighbors complain that a tree in their backyard casts a shadow over their sundeck, what starts off as a typical spat between neighbors in the suburbs unexpectedly and violently spirals out of control. I 89 min.

TV PROGRAMS

Language: English (with Icelandic subtitles)

The Handmaid’s Tale s1 e1–10 I R I Drama I 60 min.

Will & Grace s9 e1–6 I PG-13 I Comedy I 22 min.

Liar s1 e1–6 I R I Crime I 45 min.

Legion s1 e1–4 I R I Action I 60 min.

The Disaster Artist R I Comedy I 105 min.

The Shape of Water R I Fantasy / Drama I 123 min.

HOLLYWOOD BLOCKBUSTERS Language: English (with Icelandic subtitles)

Blade Runner 2049 R I Sci-Fi I 164 min.

86 / In-Flight Entertainment

Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri R I Crime I 115 min.

SHORTS & DOCS

RECOMMENDED WHEN VISITING ICELAND

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles) S

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

SHORTS & DOCS

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC SHORT FILM S

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC SHORT FILM

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

Iceland Airwaves – A Musical Microcosm Documentary I G I 51:18 min.

Did you forget your headphones? We sell quality headphones that you can use on this flight and anywhere else.

SINE

the tried and tested, r spot. This modestt serves excellently and meat. They also ion of cheeses and ted delicacies.

TORFAN

Unique Iceland I A holiday destination of extremes. An entertaining and informative series about Iceland, both city and country, so you can feel prepared for your Stopover.

Reynir sterki / Beyond Strengh G I Documentary I 87 min.

Retro Stefson / Last Change G I Documentary I 56:24 min.

VOURITE S IN REYKJAVÍK

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

ICELANDIC MOVIE

Sumarbörn / Summer Children G I Family / Drama I 84 min.

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Undir trénu / Under the Tree PG-13 I Drama I 89 min.

Helga G I Short Film I 12:28 min.

ICELANDIC TV PROGRAMS

ICELANDIC FILMS

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

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Anna og skapsveiflurnar / Anna and the Moods PG I Animation 26:26 min.

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DINING

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ICELANDIC TV SERIES

Fangar / Prisoners s1 e1–6 I PG-13 I Drama / Detective I 43 min.

Pressa II / The Press II s1 e1–6 I R I Drama / Thriller I 47 min.

Spongebob Squarepants / Svampur Sveinsson I 4 ep. I G I Comedy / Kids I 30 min.

Louie I 4 ep. I G I Animation / Kids I 30 min.

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMS Language: Icelandic/English

Go Diego Go! 4 ep. I G I Animation / Kids I 30 min.

Dora the Explorer / Dóra landkönnuður 4 ep. I G I Animation / Kids I 30 min.

Please note that you have many more audio books, films and TV programs to choose from on the in-flight the entertainment system. The films and TV programs listed here are only a small selection.

Icelandair Stopover / 87

CLASSES OF SERVICE Icelandair offers a range of on-board services available to all passengers. We are the first European airline to offer gate-to-gate Wi-Fi, which means that you can stay online from the moment you board until you leave the aircraft, free from interruptions during boarding, take-off and landing. For our youngest flyers, we have a selection of children’s entertainment and games available on the in-flight entertainment system. Children also receive a box with a meal and juice and are provided with headphones and an activity bag. Passengers can check in quickly and easily with our online check-in service. You can use your smart device to check in even faster. It is possible to check in 36 hours before departure to Europe and Canada and 24 hours before departure to North America.

Icelandair caters to a range of tastes and budgets with a selection of five classes: Economy Light, Economy Standard, Economy Flex, Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex. Economy Light offers quality at a reduced price with a luggage allowance of one handbag only, ideal for short-haul trips. Economy Standard includes both hand luggage and one checked-in bag, and Economy Flex additionally includes priority boarding and free Wi-Fi. For an indulgent experience in an exclusive, quiet cabin at the front of the aircraft, choose Saga Premium. With four-abreast wide seating and plenty of legroom, you’ll have ample space to work or simply stretch out and rest up for your destination. Saga Premium Flex additionally offers an unlimited stopover in Iceland and the flexibility to refund. For detailed information about what each class has to offer, see the table below.

ECONOMY LIGHT

ECONOMY STANDARD ECONOMY FLEX

Priority check-in

No No Yes, where applicable

SAGA PREMIUM

SAGA PREMIUM FLEX Yes, where applicable

Lounge access

Yes, where applicable

Priority boarding

Yes, where applicable

Seating 737, 757

3-3

3-3 3-3 2-2

2-2

Seating 767

2-3-2

2-1-2

Luggage allowance

No checked luggage

1x50 lb (23 kg)

2x70 lb (32 kg)

Carry-on luggage

1x22 lb (10 kg)

2x22 lb (10 kg)

Legroom

31–32" / 79–81 cm

40" / 101 cm

In-flight entertainment

Yes

Wi-Fi

At a small fee

Included for 2 devices

Headphones

For sale

Yes, noise-canceling

Blankets and pillows

Upon request

Universal electric outlet No USB port

Yes

Upon request

Yes

Yes Yes Yes Yes

Non-alcoholic beverages Included

Included

Alcoholic beverages

For sale

Included

Champagne

For sale

Included

Meals

For sale

Included, special menu

Travel kit

On N-American routes

Hot towels

Yes

Pre-flight drink

On N-American routes

On N-American routes Unlimited

Stopover

For up to 3 nights

For up to 7 nights

Change fees

$300 Fare difference may apply*

$150 Fare difference may apply*

None, but fare difference is applicable

From $150 None, but fare difference Fare difference may apply* is applicable**

Refundability Non-refundable Non-refundable Refundable

Non-refundable Refundable

Combinability between Combines classes solely with Economy Light

Combines with Saga Premium

Combines with Saga Premium Flex

Combines with Economy Standard

Combines with Economy Flex

Saga Points earned 50%

100%

150%

200%

300%

*Subject to currency changes

88 / Services on Board

**Additionally: A free shift of flight time up to +/– 24 hours if booked within 48 hours of the original departure time. Valid on FI flights only.

CLEVELAND IS HAPPENING

Welcome to the friendly hometown of rock ’n’ roll and LeBron James. After an exciting game of basketball, why not check out Ziggy Stardust’s jumpsuit and other treasures at the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame? You can also savor food and history at the 100-year-old market, get in a round of golf, or be surprised by the Cleveland Museum of Art. You’ll enjoy a happenin’ city break in Cleveland, Ohio.

PASSENGER GUIDE

PORTABLE ELECTRONIC DEVICES WHAT ELECTRONIC DEVICES CAN I USE ON BOARD THE AIRCRAFT?

Always permitted

Hearing Aid

Handheld devices with flight mode Handheld devices, such as tablets, e-readers and mobile phones may be used during all phases of the flight, provided that flight mode is enabled before departure. Devices must be safely secured in the customer’s hand or pocket during taxi, take-off and landing.

Pacemaker

Permitted at gate and above 10,000 feet*

DVD Player

Devices without flight mode Any device that transmits or receives radio signals but does not have flight mode must be switched off for the duration of the flight.

Laptop / Tablet

NOTE: *Larger PEDs (more than 1 kg) such as laptops must be securely stowed in overhead compartments or under the seat before take-off and landing.

Laptops and other larger devices These devices may be used during boarding but not for taxi, takeoff and landing. They may be used in-flight. They shall be stowed away safely during taxi, take-off and landing.

Always permitted*

Tablet

E-reader

Smartphone (in-flight mode)

Camera (digital, film, video)

NoiseCanceling Headphones (power ON)

CD Player

Media Player

Handheld Game

NOTE: *Small lightweight Portable Electronic Devices, or PEDs – 1 kg or less (iPhone, iPad, iPad mini, Samsung Galaxy phones & tablets, Nokia, Microsoft Surface, Kindle e-reader, digital cameras etc.) are permitted as long as they are secured during take-off and landing. Passengers must either hold their PED or securely place it in the seat pocket. Lightweight PEDs may not be unsecured on the seat beside them. PED cords or accessories are not to impede emergency egress. We ask passengers to remove their headphones and pay attention to the safety briefing.

Power outlets are located in all seats on Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex. USB outlets provide power to charge small personal electronic devices, such as mobile phones, cameras or Aircraft B75-200 I Aircraft B 757-300 Plug

Rows 1–14

USB

All rows

NOTE: PEDs must be disconnected from any in-seat electrical power supply during taxiing, t akeoff, approach, landing and during abnormal or emergency conditions.

90 / Devices and Wi-Fi

Other devices without connectivity This includes items such as DVD players, electronic games and music players. Only small, handheld devices may be used during taxi, take-off and landing. Larger devices must be switched off and stowed away safely during take-off and landing. Are there times when I can’t use my handheld devices? Flight or cabin crew may ask you at any time to switch off all electronic devices should interference be detected. Can I connect to Wi-Fi (if provided in-flight) even if flight mode is enabled? Yes. Cellular services must be turned off (flight mode) at all times, but other wireless services such as Wi-Fi may be used above 10,000 ft if a connection service is installed in the aircraft. It is possible to re-enable Wi-Fi and connect to a Wi-Fi network while flight mode is enabled.

WIRELESS INTERNET ON BOARD SEE OUR WI-FI PORTAL FOR PRICING INFORMATION How do I connect to the Wi-Fi network? 1. Make sure your mobile device is set to flight mode during all phases of flight. Then activate Wi-Fi on your device. 2. Choose the “Icelandair Internet Access” network. 3. Open your browser of choice and then press “Get Wi-Fi” if using a laptop. On your phone, choose either the “Wi-Fi” or “Complimentary” option. What you can expect The connection speed is similar to 3G. Keep in mind that the on-board Wi-Fi is therefore not as fast as home connections. The number of users can affect the speed of the connection. Wi-Fi is available from the moment you board and until you leave the aircraft.

HELSINKI VANCOUVER

Do I need to set my smartphone or tablet to flight mode? All smartphones and tablets may be switched on at all times, but in flight mode only. You might have to activate Wi-Fi separately when your device is set to flight mode. Your device must be safely secured in your hand or pocket during taxi, take-off and landing. You can stay connected throughout your flight – from the moment you board and until you disembark. What kind of device can I use? You can use a laptop, a tablet or a smartphone to connect. The connection will be activated on the same device you use to purchase or validate Internet access. When can I start using the Wi-Fi access? You will be able to connect as soon as you want, and the connection will be active throughout your flight.

ANCHORAGE

SEATTLE

What can I do when connected? n You can check your email. n You can browse the web. n You can use social media and other communication platforms.

STOCKHOLM EDMONTON

OSLO GOTHENBURG BERGEN COPENHAGEN

PORTLAND

SAN FRANCISCO ICELAND

BILLUND BERLIN HAMBURG FRANKFURT MUNICH AMSTERDAM GLASGOW BRUSSELS ZURICH MANCHESTER MILAN DUBLIN LONDON PARIS GENEVA

If you are having trouble connecting, please send an email to wifi@icelandair.is the next time you are connected to the Internet. More questions can be found in the Wi-Fi portal.

HEATHROW & GATWICK ORLY & CDG

DENVER MINNEAPOLIS / ST. PAUL

MADRID CHICAGO TORONTO KANSAS CITY CLEVELAND DALLAS

Icelandair Saga Gold members and booked Saga Premium passengers get complimentary Wi-Fi access for two devices.

MONTREAL

BALTIMORE HALIFAX BOSTON WASHINGTON D.C. PHILADELPHIA NEW YORK JFK & NEWARK

TAMPA BAY

ORLANDO

The pink color indicates network coverage on Icelandair routes.

Icelandair Stopover / 91

SAFETY FIRST Iceland’s vast nature is spectacular, unique—and unpredictable. Sunny and calm periods can transform into windstorms, blizzards and plummeting temperatures in a matter of hours. If you are planning to travel to a more isolated area, please leave a copy of your itinerary with the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue at safetravel.is, and, for all excursions, observe these tips: DRIVING n When driving, keep your full attention on the road, especially on areas where tarmac turns to gravel. Blind hills should be approached with caution. It is illegal to operate a vehicle after consuming alcohol.

KNOW YOUR EMERGENCY NUMBER IN ICELAND / EUROPE �� 112 IN USA AND CANADA �� 911 IN UK �� 999 / 112 icesar.com Emergency calls are free to make from mobile phones. But if you’re on the other side of the Atlantic, or in Iceland from North America, don’t forget to check on arrival if yours is working. Some phones operate on a different bandwidth and will not work in foreign countries.

On single-lane bridges, the car closer to the bridge has the right of way, but it is always wise to stop and assess the situation.

ICELANDIC SEARCH AND RESCUE:

Only take Highland roads if you have a 4x4 jeep, and make sure you have the experience necessary to operate these vehicles in tough conditions.

Roads can be quite slippery during winter, especially after frost in the early morning. All Highland roads are closed during winter.

OUR COUNTRY’S BRAVE VOLUNTEERS

Off-road driving is illegal.

HIKING When you are hiking, be prepared for sudden weather changes, stick to your travel plan, and dress appropriately, with water- and wind-resistant clothing, gloves and hats.

Do not get too close to cliff edges or hot springs. When waves are big, stay far ahead from the sea; be especially vigilant along the south coast, which is open to the Atlantic Ocean.

If you get lost, call 112, the emergency service line. Stay where you are and wait for rescue services to find you.

The search and rescue association also offers a free emergency app, downloadable from their website. Your coordinates will be sent to the emergency response crews should you use the app. There is more information on safe travel in Iceland on our in-flight entertainment system.

Visit safetravel.is for equipment lists, travel plans and the latest traveling conditions.

92 / Safety

If you get lost on a mountain, can’t find your way at sea, or encounter virtually any other difficulty in Iceland’s outdoors, the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue (ICE-SAR) is there to help. In a country with no military and only a few coast guard vessels and helicopters, ICE-SAR’s 3,000 highly-trained volunteers command deserved respect from both locals and visitors. Their teams deal with thousands of calls annually and are available 24 hours a day, on land or at sea. So while the vast majority of trips to Iceland will be without incident, you can rest easy that, should the need arise, the nation’s most experienced people will be prepared to save lives and prevent accidents under even the harshest conditions. Remember too that rescue operations are expensive to launch: Advanced equipment is used and volunteers take time off from their jobs to take part. ICE-SAR relies entirely on donations to finance itself; you can contribute via their website, icesar.com.

SAFETY ON BOARD

Please follow all instructions provided in our in-flight video carefully and read the information on the safety card in your seat pocket. Our cabin crew puts your safety above all else, so we kindly recommend that you follow their guidance or suggestions during the flight. The use of small electronic devices in flight mode is permitted from gate to gate. Please see page 90 for information on the use of portable electronic devices. The use of heart pacemakers, hearing aids and other devices required for medical reasons is of course unrestricted. We recommend that you keep your seat belt fastened throughout the flight.

Cabin baggage should be stored in the overhead compartments or placed under the seat in front of you. Please be careful when you open the compartments, as luggage may have shifted during the flight. When space is limited, we might need to store part of the cabin baggage in the luggage compartments. Smoking is prohibited on all Icelandair flights. That includes electronic cigarettes.

In front of HallgrĂmskirkja

Icelandair Stopover / 93

SAMNINGUR UM UNDANÞÁGU FRÁ VEGABRÉFSÁRITUN TIL BANDARÍKJANNA (VISA WAIVER PROGRAM – VWP) Samningur um undanþágu frá vegabréfsáritun til Bandaríkjanna (Visa Waiver Program) gerir ríkisborgurum tiltekinna landa kleift að ferðast til Bandaríkjanna í skemmti- eða viðskiptaferð í allt að 90 sólarhringa án þess að sækja um og fá sérstaka vegabréfsáritun. Ferðamönnum, sem þessi samningur tekur til, er eftir sem áður heimilt að sækja um vegabréfsáritun ef þeir kjósa svo. Aðeins tiltekinn fjöldi ríkja eru aðilar að þessum samningi (VWP) og ekki er öllum ferðamönnum frá ríkjum, sem eru aðilar að samningnum, heimilt að nýta sér undanþáguna. Öllum ferðamönnum frá löndum, sem eru aðilar að VWP, er skylt að sækja um rafræna ferðaheimild á vef bandarískra innflytjendayfirvalda (Electronic

System for Travel Authorization – ESTA). Þegar komið er til Bandaríkjanna verður starfsmaður innflytjendayfirvalda á

flugvellinum að staðfesta að viðkomandi ferðamaður hafi undanþágu skv. VWP og ferðamaðurinn er þá skráður í US-VISIT kerfið.

Lönd sem eru aðilar að samningnum um undanþágu frá vegabréfsáritun til Bandaríkjanna Countries participating in the Visa Waiver Program n

Andorra Australia n Austria n Belgium n Brunei n Czech Republic n Denmark n Estonia n Finland

France Germany n Hungary n Iceland n Ireland n Italy n Japan n Latvia n Liechtenstein

Lithuania Luxembourg n Malta n Monaco n The Netherlands n New Zealand n Norway n Portugal n San Marino

Singapore Slovakia n Slovenia n South Korea n Spain n Sweden n Switzerland n United Kingdom

VISA WAIVER PROGRAM The Visa Waiver Program (VWP) enables nationals of certain countries participate in the VWP, and not all travelers from VWP countries are eligible to use the program. VWP travelers are required to apply for authorization through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA), are screened at their port of entry into the United States and are enrolled in the US-VISIT program. Visit cbp.gov/esta to learn more.

US CUSTOMS DECLARATION EN

Before arriving in the US, each traveler or head of family is required to fill this form out and present to US Customs.

Hver komufarþegi eða forráða maður í fjölskyldu skal gefa eftirfarandi upplýsingar (fyrir hverja fjölskyldu dugar EIN yfirlýsing).

Vor der Einreise in den U.S.A müssen Sie eine Zollerklärung ausfüllen.

1. Eftirnafn, skírnarnafn, miðnafn

1. Familienname,Vorname, Zweiter Vorname

2. Fæðingardagur dagur / mánuður / ár

2. Geburtsdatum / Tag / Monat / Jahr

3. Fjöldi fjölskyldumeðlima sem ferðast saman

3. Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder

4. a) Heimilisfang í Bandaríkjunum (nafn hótels / áfangastaðar) b) Borg c) Fylki

4. (a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels / Reiseziel) (b) Stadt (c) Staat

Avant d’arriver aux États-Unis, il vous sera demandé de remplir un formulaire de déclaration en douane.

1. Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom. 2. Date de naissance Jour / Mois / Année. 3. Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous. 4. Adresse aux États-Unis a) Destination ou nom de l’hôtel. b) Ville. c) Etat.

5. Útgáfustaður vegabréfs (land)

5. Pass ausgestellt von (Land)

6. Númer vegabréfs

6. Passnummer

7. Land búsetu

7. Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land)

8. Lönd sem var farið til í þessari ferð, fyrir lendingu í Bandaríkjunum

8. Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA

7. Pays de résidence.

9. Flugfélag / Númer flugs eða heiti flugvélar

9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes

8. Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l’arrivée aux Etats-Unis.

10. Markmið þessarar ferðar er viðskiptalegs eðlis JÁ / NEI 11. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis: a) ávexti, jurtir, mat, skordýr: b) kjöt, dýr, dýraafurðir c) smitefni, frumuræktir, snigla d) mold eða hef/höfum dvalist á bónda bæ /mjólkurbúi / beitilandi JÁ/NEI 12. Ég hef (við höfum) verið í snertingu eða meðhöndlað lifandi dýr JÁ / NEI 13. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis peninga / gjaldmiðil eða aðra fjármuni að jafngildi hærri upphæð en USD 10.000. (sjá skilgreiningu á fjármun-um á bakhlið seðilsins) JÁ / NEI

10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich. Ja/nein 11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten. (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte. (c) Krankheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken. (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/einer Ranch/Weide. Ja/ nein 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit). Ja/nein

14. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis varning (til sölu eða sem ég hef (við höfum) keypt eða fengið erlendis, sem ekki teljast til persónulegra eigna) JÁ / NEI

13. Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit.

15. Búsettir í Bandaríkjunum – andvirði varnings sem ég hef (við höfum) keypt eða fengið erlendis (einnig gjafir fyrir aðra) er: Ekki búsettir í Bandaríkjunum – andvirði alls varnings sem verður eftir í Bandaríkjunum:

(Siehe die Definition von Zahlungsmitteln auf der Rückseite). Ja/nein

14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten) Ja/nein 15. Ansässige – der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschliesslich der kommerziellern Waren, die ich (wir) im Ausland gekauft oder erworben habe(n) - (einschließlich Geschenke an Dritte, jedoch ausschließlich Gegenstände, die per Post in die USA gesendet wurden) und in die USA einführe(n).

94 / Customs Info

Besucher – der Gesamtwert aller Waren, die in den USA verbleiben werden, einschließlich der kommerziellen Waren, beträgt.

5. Lieu de délivrance du passeport (nom du pays). 6. Numéro de passeport.

9. Ligne aérienne / et numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau. 10. Vous voyagez pour raison d’affaires. OUI /NON 11. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes. b) viandes, animaux, produits provenant d’animaux ou d’animaux sauvages c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots d) terre. J’ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis, OUI / NON 12. J’ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail. OUI/NON 13. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d’espèces ou d’instruments monétaires d’une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d’instruments monétaire au verso) à plus de 10 000$ US. OUI / NON 14. Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstra tion ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels). OUI/NON 15. Résidents : La valeur totale de tous les arti cles (y compris les marchandises commer ciales) que j’ai / nous avons acheté ou acquis à l’étranger et que j’apporte / nous apportons (y compris cadeaux, mais qui excluent les effets affranchis vers les États-Unis) aux ÉtatsUnis. Visiteurs : La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis (y compris les marchan dises commerciales).

CANADA CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM Before arriving in Canada, each traveler or head of family is required to fill this form out and present to Customs. PART A All travelers (living at the same address) 1. Last name, first name and initials a) Date of birth b) Citizenship 2. Home Address – Number, street, apartment No. a) City/Town b) Prov./State c) Country d) Postal/Zip code 3. Arriving by: a) Air b) Rail c) Marine d) Highway e) Airline/flight no., train no. or vessel name

4. Purpose of trip: a) Study b) Personal c) Business 5. Arriving from: a) U.S. only b) Other country direct c) Other country via U.S. 6. I am/we are bringing into Canada: • Firearms or other weapons (e.g. switchblades, Mace or pepper spray). • Currency/or monetary instruments of a value totaling CAN$10,000 or more per person. I/we have shipped goods that are not accompanying me/us. I/we have visited a farm and will be going to a a farm in Canada.

PART B Visitors to Canada Duration of stay in Canada Do you or any person listed above exceed the duty-free allowances per person? (see instructions on the left)

Complete in the same order as Part A Date left Canada YY-MM-DD Value of goods-CAN$. Purchased or received abroad (including gifts, alcohol & tobacco)

PART C Residents of Canada Do you or any person listed above exceed the exemptions per person? (See instructions on the left)

Part D Signatures (age 16 and older): I certify that my declaration is true and complete

Why passengers coming from non-EEA or Schengen countries require security screening upon arrival in Iceland Aviation security regulations in countries outside the European Economic Area (EEA), including Canada, do not comply with those in EEA

countries, including Iceland. Passengers from non-EEA countries must therefore go through security screening at Keflavík International

Airport before joining other passengers in the terminal. The same rules apply to the quantity of liquids in carry-on baggage.

ICELANDAIR ALLERGY POLICY Icelandair cannot guarantee an allergen-free environment on board its aircraft. Therefore, we strongly encourage passengers with severe allergies that can result in anaphylaxis to bring an epinephrine autoinjector (EpiPen®) and any other medications they may need. The meals offered on Icelandair flights do not contain peanuts or peanut products, such as peanut butter, although trace elements from peanuts may be found in meals. In addition, tree nuts (e.g. almonds) may be found in meals on board, and fish and shellfish are sometimes on offer in Saga Premium. Unfortunately, it is not possible to remove tree nuts, fish or shellfish from the cabin.

In the case of severe nut allergy, our cabin crew can make an allergy announcement on board, asking other passengers on the flight not to consume foods that contain nuts. Please contact Icelandair Customer support at +354 50 50 100 at least 48 hours before departure to request an allergy announcement. We do, however, wish to stress that Icelandair can in no way restrict other passengers from bringing or consuming their own food on the aircraft that may contain nuts or other allergens. For that reason, it is possible to find traces of nuts on seat cushions, arm rests, tray tables, or elsewhere in the cabin.

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