Icelandair Stopover magazine - spring 2019 by Icelandair

Vor I Spring 2019

#MyStopover

STOPOVER THAWING OUT FOR SPRING Jason Momoa on Filming in Iceland page 16 Birdwatching Hotspots Around the Country page 20 The Paradox of Immigration in The Deposit page 36 Marveling at the Midnight Sun page 38

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W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S

LOOK INSIDE

SPRING 2019 I PUBLISHED BY ICELANDAIR

26 Featured Content:

4 Letter From Icelandair 5 Icelandic for beginners 6 Iceland 101 8 Landscape: Hiking in Hornstrandir 10 What to Do This Spring 12 Recommended Reads 14 Outdoor Art: Sun Voyager 16 Interview: Jason Momoa 18 My Location: Justice League 20 Travel: Birdwatching Hotspots 26 Travel: The “Leg Breaker” Trail 30 Sport: Captain Sara Strikes Again 32 Travel: Diamond at Your Doorstep Editor: Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir (editor@icelandair.is) Cover Image: Shutterstock Copy Editor: Sarah Dearne Contributing Writers: Mica Allan, Ásta Andrésdóttir, Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir, Carolyn Bain, Sarah Dearne, Björn Halldórsson, Benjamin Hardman, Matthew Hickey, Tina Jøhnk Christensen, Larissa Kyzer, Valentin Manhart, Karin Murray-Bergquist, Gísli Pálsson, Lisa Gail Shannen, Jonathan Thompson Contributing Illustrators: Alfreð I. A. Pétursson

36 Film: “Them” and “Us” in The Deposit 38 Nature: Basking in the Midnight Sun 42 Icelandair on Instagram 46 Photo Essay: Waterfalls

and Other Wonders

Bocuse D’Or

The Animals of Treasure Iceland

50 History: The First Black Settler of Iceland 52 Food: Icelandic Contestant Talks 54 #MyStopover: Honeymoon on Ice 58 Our Top Stopover Picks 62 All the Flavors of Philadelphia 64 Top 10 Adventures in Anchorage 66 Art of All Kinds in the Netherlands 68 Children’s Corner: and KIDZinflight Contributing Photographers: Annca, Kári Heiðar Árnason, Carolyn Bain, Chris Bonis, Jack Bonney, Wayde Carroll, Lilja Draumland, Roman Flepp, Nicole Geils, Roman Gerasymenko, Ken Graham, Benjamin Hardman, Alexandra Hawkins, Matthew Hickey, Bernd Hildebrandt, Kyle Huff, Kristín Jónsdóttir, Lilja Jónsdóttir, Gao Junyi, Katla Leósdóttir, Mario Liebherr, Jacqueline Macou, Valentin Manhart, Roland A. Mores, Karin Murray-Bergquist, Karl Petersson,

Flyer’s Hub:

69 Route Network 70 Saga Shop Kitchen: On-Board Menu 71 Icelandair Travel Experience 74 Icelandair @Work: Novelties and News 76 In-Flight Entertainment 78 Services on Board 80 Our Fleet: Aircraft Types and Names 84 Devices and Wi-Fi 86 Safety First 88 Guide to US Customs Form

Jody Overstreet, Patrik Ontkovic, OZZO, Gísli Pálsson, Robert Postma, Julie Rowland, Einar Rúnar Sigurðsson, Tobias Stoffels, Patrick Tomasso, Helgi Rafn Viggósson Advertising: icelandair.com/advertise Design: Ágústa S. Þórðardóttir and Jónas Unnarsson / Icelandic Ad Agency Printing: Oddi AN SV

S MERK

IÐ

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Correction: In the article “Tales from the North,” published in the winter 2019 issue of Icelandair Stopover, all photos were mistakenly credited to Juan Camillo Roman Estrada. However, he took the portrait of Benedikt Erlingsson, director of Woman at War, and Bergsteinn Björgúlfsson should have been credited for the stills from the film. We sincerely apologize for the mistake.

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VOLCANO & EARTHQUAKE EXHIBITION The Lava Centre is situated at Hvolsvöllur on the South Coast of Iceland, surrounded by active volcanoes. It truly acts as the gateway to Iceland’s most active volcanic area. It’s a must-see for anyone wanting to get a better understanding of the incredible forces that have shaped Iceland. The Lava Centre just received two Red Dot Awards, which cement its position as a world class exhibition.

More info and tickets at

www.lavacentre.is

Open every day

9:00 - 19:00

Lava now accepts

social media

Iceland Volcano & Earthquake Centre Austurvegur 14, Hvolsvöllur · South Iceland

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LETTER FROM ICELANDAIR:

PASSION FOR TRAVELING SIGRÚN BENDER, CAPTAIN. Dear fellow traveler, There are so many reasons I chose this career, but one of the biggest is that I get to see the world and travel. Traveling gives you so many wonderful experiences, like learning about new cultures, challenging yourself in situations you have not yet encountered, spending time and making unforgettable memories with your fellow travelers and expanding your senses. There’s no feeling like standing in a new city or hiking a new mountain and experiencing how amazing, big and challenging this world can be. Whether it’s reaching the top of the mountain or laying your head on the pillow after immersing yourself into a new culture, the overwhelming feeling is pride. While traveling, you learn more about yourself, and during the journey you gain perspective on the important things in life. Life is not about the finishing line but about the experiences you have while getting there. In Iceland, nature has awakened from its winter slumber: Trees bud, flowers blossom and birds sing all through the bright summer

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night. Hiking is a joyous activity at this time of year, whether in remote nature reserves (see page 8), or on historic trails closer to the beaten path (see page 26). For the best birdwatching spots, take a look at our guide on page 20, and for activities under the midnight sun, see page 38. You’ll find more tips on page 58. In #MyStopover on page 54, Matthew Hickey reveals the romance of glacial hiking, while in their photo essay on page 46, Valentin Manhart and Roman Flepp share their favorite spots around Iceland. In Children’s Corner on page 68, the animals of Treasure Iceland travel the Golden Circle— familiar to most tourists. But what is the Blue Diamond? Flip over to page 32 and find out. On page 10, see what’s happening on our adventure island in the coming months. Curious about culture? Read about Icelandic literature on page 12, outdoor art on page 14 and a contestant’s take on the world’s most prestigious gastronomic competition on page 52. On page 36, we discuss a thought-provoking Icelandic feature film,

The Deposit—which you can also watch on our in-flight entertainment system. Also don’t miss our interview with Jason Momoa about shooting in Iceland and his role as Aquaman, on page 16. On page 18, we feature Djúpavík, the location for Justice League. Read the remarkable story of Iceland’s first black settler on page 50, and on page 30, an interview with Iceland’s first lady of football. Beyond Iceland, three Icelandair destinations are in focus: Philadelphia with its culinary fusions and fabulous hangouts on page 62, Anchorage with its abundance of outdoor activities on page 64, and Amsterdam and Rotterdam for the art lover, on page 66. And remember, when you’re flying between Europe and North America, you can add a Stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare— an adventure waiting to happen! May your flight be enjoyable and your journey magical. Góða ferð! Have a good trip.

ICELANDIC FOR BEGINNERS

1,000 years, under 400,000 speakers and 50 words for snow. The Icelandic language is something else.

Fewer than 400,000 people speak Icelandic, a Germanic language that developed from Old Norse, the language of the Vikings. Listening to it is like traveling through time—due to the nation’s geographic isolation and conscious preservation, it has changed remarkably little in the past 1,000 years. Preserved ancient texts— which are still largely intelligible to modern readers—are studied at all school levels, and young and old still enjoy the Icelandic sagas. In Iceland, creating new words for techno logical innovation is a national pastime, especially since the 19th century. Usually they are based on existing ones. • The word for telephone is sími, from an ancient word for long thread. • The word for computer is tölva—a fusion of tala (number) and völva (prophetess). • The word for helicopter is þyrla, from a verb meaning twirl.

The Icelandic alphabet has 32 letters, including: • Æ / æ (sometimes written as “ae”) is pronounced like the “i” in tide. • Ð / ð (sometimes written as “d”) is pronounced like the “th” in there. • Þ / þ (sometimes written as “th”) is pronounced like the “th” in think.

Lakagígar n

Of course, Icelanders have selected their favorite word in a national referendum: Ljósmóðir (literally, “mother of light”) is the Icelandic word for midwife.

Icelandic contains approximately 50 words describing different types of snow. These include skæðadrífa, kafaldsmyglingur, él, snjóhraglandi and hundslappadrífa. For some reason, the most popular one is snjór.

are addressing. And make sure to address Icelanders by their first name, even if they’re a music icon (Björk) or the world’s first female president (Vigdís). In fact, our phone book is listed alphabetically by given names.

Unlike most European languages, there is no formal and informal version of the word you. Simply use þú regardless of whom you

Iceland has a strict government-run committee that decides which names are appropriate for giving to newborns.

Above: Volcanic landscape in Lakagígar, in the Highlands of Iceland.

ICELANDIC 101 Hello Sæl (seyel) for addressing a woman Sæll (seyetl) for addressing a man Hi Hæ (hi) Good morning / afternoon Góðan daginn (go-than dye-yin) Good evening Gott kvöld (goht-kvohld) Good night Góða nótt (go-tha noht) Goodbye Bless (blehss)

Bye Bæ (bye)

Okay Allt í lagi (allt ee lye-yih)

See you later Sjáumst (syow-umst)

I love you Ég elska þig (yeh elska thih)

Thank you very much Takk fyrir (tahk fe-reer)

My name is Ég heiti (yeh hay-ti)

You’re welcome Það var ekkert (thah vahr ehk-kert)

One hot dog with everything please Eina með öllu, takk (ay-na meth oddlu takk)

Yes Já (yow)

Where can I find… Hvar finn ég... (kvahr finn yeh…)

No Nei (nay)

I don’t speak Icelandic Ég tala ekki íslensku (yeh tah-la eh-kih ees-lensku)

Maybe Kannski (kahn-skih)

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GRÍMSEY

SUÐUREYRI ÍSAFJÖRÐUR

DALVÍK

FLATEY

ARNARSTAPI

REYÐARFJÖRÐUR

HOFSJÖKULL LANGJÖKULL

VATNAJÖKULL

AKRANES

HEKLA

REYKJAVÍK REYKJANESBÆR

THIS IS HIGHWAY 1 VESTMANNAEYJAR

ICELAND 101 Welcome to Iceland! Looking for the basics on Iceland before your Icelandair Stopover? Here are a few essentials about our North Atlantic paradise. The national language is Icelandic, and while you’ll have no problem getting by using English, we’re grateful anytime a visitor tries to use góðan daginn (good day) or takk (thank you). You are going to land at Keflavík Airport. When you first step outside, take a deep breath and inhale our wonderful clean air. Welcome to the North Atlantic. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, winter temperatures are milder here than you’ll find in New York or Toronto. When the thermometer creeps above 68°F (20°C) in summer, Icelanders bask in the sun at cafés and beaches. You probably already know that Iceland is a volcanic land. We also have many glaciers and countless other natural wonders. Remember to stay safe on your travels and check out safetravel.is before you go. There’s no need to buy bottled water when you’re here. What comes out of the tap is pure, clean, tasty—and free. You may notice the hot water has a slightly sulfurous smell, but it’s plentiful; we even use it to heat our homes!

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It does not get as cold in winter as you might think, but nevertheless our weather can be quite unpredictable. Bring lots of clothes to wear in layers—even in summer—and a good quality windproof jacket. Most importantly, don’t forget your bathing suit! Visiting our thermal pools is a highlight of most trips (though you can always rent a suit if you forgot yours). There aren’t a lot of trees in Iceland. It can be windy here. Remember to hold your car door when you open it. Trust us; your rental company will thank you. Electricity in Iceland is 220 volts, the same as in Europe. If you bring electronics from the US or Canada, you’ll need an adapter for both plugs and current. Iceland is a wired society, and you’ll find Internet hotspots almost everywhere. Many of you will be visiting our country to enjoy our unique nature, of which we are very proud. Please remember, though, that Iceland’s delicate landscapes can take decades, or even centuries, to recover from misuse. Please don’t collect stones, tread on or pick up sensitive moss, or drive off road—

We call it the Ring Road because, as you can see, it is shaped like a ring around the whole island. Many people like to follow this 882mile (1,323-km) long route when they want to see a lot of the country, but don’t forget to venture off on other roads so you can explore areas like the Westfjords, Snæfellsnes peninsula and Reykjanes.

even in what may appear to be barren, sandy territory. Speaking of our landscapes, you’ll notice that there aren’t many signs, fences or other barriers around our natural wonders. We trust your common sense. So when you see or hear a warning, please heed it: Do not step over ropes that are blocking an area. Hot springs can be dangerously hot. Rocks near waterfalls can be slippery. And the sea can be deceptively calm. Follow local advice. The name of Iceland’s capital, Reykjavík, means “smoky bay.” About two-thirds of our population of 350,000 live in the Capital Region. Photographers love Iceland for its incredible, ever-changing light. It never gets fully dark between about mid-May and early August, while in December a muted light shines over the island for a few short hours each day.

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Hornstrandir n Hornbjarg

AT THE EDGE TEXT AND PHOTO BY BENJAMIN HARDMAN (INSTAGRAM.COM/ BENJAMINHARDMAN). Enduring rough and rainy seas last summer, I traveled north by boat with a plan to explore one of Icelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most remote areas, the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. Waking up in my tent to the fresh air of the mountains the following morning, I set my eye on the magnificent cliffs of Hornbjarg, situated across the fjord from our camp. After an eventful hike, from crossing rivers on foot to the occasional encounter with the true locals, the Arctic foxes, we arrived at the cliffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge. Looking out to a seemingly infinite ocean, my mind wandered as I observed the shape of a distant iceberg on the horizon. It had floated over from East Greenland after the spring. With the sounds of thousands of chirping birds echoing off the rock walls in front of us, dense in vibrant shades of green foliage, I sat peacefully with my camera, capturing this incredible scene.

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HERE AND THERE

BY SARAH DEARNE.

Here’s what’s happening on the hippest island in the North Atlantic this spring. REYKJAVÍK

April 24–27 SIGLUFJÖRÐUR

Reykjavík International Literary Festival Held every two years since 1985, the International Literary Festival draws wordsmiths from around the world to Reykjavík, a UNESCO City of Literature. Events include readings, panel talks and workshops in cozy venues around the city, and at the end you can groove on the dance floor with your favorite author at the Literary Ball. Admission is free for all events except the ball, so you’ll have krónur to spare when you hit the bookstores. I bokmenntahatid.is

REYKJAVÍK

Djúpivogur n

May 17

Super Troll Ski Race Catch the tail end of the ski season on Tröllaskagi (Troll Peninsula), a majestic mountainous area in North Iceland, just a few miles south of the Arctic Circle. This annual cross-country race will take you through awe-inspiring back country, over a mountain pass, ascending a peak and then down again to celebrate your achievement in Siglufjörður, Iceland’s northernmost mainland town. facebook.com/supertrollskirace

AROUND ICELAND May 31 to June 2

April 25–27 Seamen’s Day

Seamen’s Day honors Iceland’s seafaring traditions while giving sailors a well-deserved day off. Celebrations take place around the country, with typical festivities including boat rides, sea-creature exhibits, helpings of delicious seafood, and various other nautical fun. Among the biggest events are the Festival of the Sea by Reykjavík Harbor (June 1–2) and the Happy Sailor festival in Grindavík (May 31 to June 2), about 45 minutes from the capital. April 25–28 grindavik.is/sjoarinnsikati I hatidhafsins.is

Sónar Reykjavík The Reykjavík edition of the international Sónar festival brings youthful spirit to Harpa Concert Hall. The focus is on electronic music in all its forms, with Harpa’s kaleidoscopic facade providing the perfect backdrop. You’ll find the coolest kids downstairs in the SónarLab, a (literally) underground rave in Harpa’s car park. I sonarreykjavik.com

DJÚPIVOGUR

Hammond Festival Head east to the tiny town of Djúpivogur for the Hammond Festival, a four-day musical homage to the beloved Hammond organ. Favored by jazz, blues and gospel artists, this distinctive instrument weaves a musical thread between the diverse lineup of Icelandic musicians. You can get a festival pass or pop in for one concert (Lay Low in Djúpivogur Church looks particularly promising). I hammond.djupivogur.is

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AROUND ICELAND / HAFNARFJÖRÐUR

Siglufjörður

n Reykjavík Hafnarfjörður Grindavík

n n

crowds aren’t your thing, we recommend getting out of the city for a small-town take on the day. Hafnarfjörður, just 20 minutes from the capital, is ideal, with National Day celebrations overlapping with the annual Viking Festival (June 13–17), a bustling medieval market that takes you back to the days of the first settlers. 17juni.is I visithafnarfjordur.is

REYKJAVÍK

June 29 to July 6

Reykjavík Fringe Festival After a cracking first run in 2018, the Reykjavík Fringe Festival is back with a fresh lineup of talent. Inspired by the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, this eight-day event celebrates all forms of artistry, with highlights including theater performances, live music, burlesque, standup comedy and theatrical workshops. The program takes place in large and intimate venues around the city center. rvkfringe.is Left: Iris Thorarins improvises live music at

June 17 Reykjavík Fringe Festival in 2018. Photo by June 13–17 Patrik Ontkovic.

National Day / Viking Festival Iceland celebrates its National Day on June 17, the anniversary of its independence from Denmark. Festivities around the country include parades, live entertainment, bouncy castles and face painting, with the biggest celebrations taking place in Reykjavík. If huge

Center: Fatboy Slim gets the crowd going at Sónar Reykjavík in 2017. Photo by Lilja Draumland Photography. Right: Reykjavík International Literary Festival attracts storytellers from around the world. Photo by Patrick Tomasso.

NO NEED TO WAIT FOR YOUR BAGS if you do what the locals do and pick up some duty free goods in the arrival store before your luggage www.dutyfree.is

THE DUTY FREE ALLOWANCE IS 6 UNITS OF ALCOHOL, ANY WAY YOU LIKE IT Use the duty free allowance calculator on our website, www.dutyfree.is, to determine how to make the best use of your allowance.

READ WITH THE LIGHTS OFF! Spring has sprung and in Iceland the midnight sun is wreaking havoc with the nation’s sleep cycles. Might as well give up all hope of a full night’s sleep and dig into one of these choice reads selected by Björn Halldórsson. BIRDS By Hjörleifur Hjartarson and Rán Flygenring Being an isolated and rather young (geologically speaking) island, Iceland’s only native mammal is the Arctic fox—which presumably found its way here during some prehistoric ice age. However, Iceland’s placement and relative lack of predators makes it an ideal breeding ground for birdlife. In this book, Hjörleifur Hjartarson applies ornithology and humor to offer readers the knowledge necessary to spot Icelandic bird species—also providing an account of each species’ cultural significance to the nation. The illustrations play a key role as Rán

Flygenring’s drawings of the birds and their habitats offer hilarity as well as information, embellishing each species with a personality that speaks volumes about the sentimentality with which Icelanders view the country’s birdlife. Thankfully, Rán has been given the space and freedom to pursue her own bliss in her art, with many of the in-jokes and subtler nuances of the illustrations going unnoticed until a second or third reading. Accessible and suitable for all ages, Birds is the perfect book to share as a family during your travels in Iceland.

STORMWARNING By Kristín Svava Tómasdóttir This translation of Kristín Svava’s 2015 poetry collection was nominated for the PEN America Translation Prize in 2018 and is presented here in a bilingual format. Stormwarning offers a very different image of winter than the one touted by adverts for the Icelandic winter tourist season. Here, seasonal affective disorder reigns and the northern lights are nowhere to be seen. The poems’ speakers are confined to their homes, forced to keep their own company while waiting out a storm. There, they revel in their

melancholy and loneliness with acute self-awareness, addressing the humdrum of the everyday while darkness presses against their windows. Even so, the tone is light, ironic and funny, as if they can’t quite manage to keep from smirking while listing their own miseries with theatricality and verve. In fact, you might say that Kristín Svava’s poetry offers a perfect balance: It’s funny without being silly, sarcastic without being bitter, and serious without taking itself too seriously.

CAB 79 By Indriði G. Þorsteinsson Published in 1955 and now available in English for the first time, Cab 79 is among the earliest Icelandic novels to examine the shift in values experienced by the country’s newly urbanized post-war generation—especially in regard to the Western influence of the US Navy base in Keflavík. Ragnar, the book’s protagonist, is a recent arrival in Reykjavík and the driver of cab 79. This arbitrary number— assigned to him by the taxi company—speaks to the powerlessness and loss of identity that Ragnar experiences in the city. In 1962, the novel was adapted into a AUDIO BOOK

film that is considered to mark the start of modern Icelandic cinematic history. No wonder, as the book’s sparse and realistic language and dialogue is a screenwriter’s dream—a drastic departure from the prior generation’s idyllic country romances. Some readers might find this gritty urban depiction of Reykjavík eerily familiar, as Indriði is the father of renowned contemporary crime author Arnaldur Indriðason, who provides an introduction for the book and whose own style certainly seems to draw inspiration from his father’s.

DAYBREAK By Viktor Arnar Ingólfsson This is the first book in Viktor Arnar’s series of novels about odd couple detectives Birkir Li Hinriksson and Gunnar Maríuson. When the shotgun-blasted body of a goose hunter is discovered in the idyllic Dalasýsla district, they are sent from Reykjavík to assist with the investigation. Murders are few and far between in Iceland, so it comes as a shock when more bodies begin turning up. Soon, the detectives realize that they may be dealing with Iceland’s first serial killer. Strangely enough, their killer only chooses goose hunters as his victims, stalking

his prey while they themselves are on the hunt. As with Viktor Arnar’s other novels, Daybreak’s pacing may take some getting used to for readers more versed in fastpaced Western thrillers. In fact, it has more in common with British police procedurals, advancing the plot by relying on character creation and vividly rendered surroundings. The novel was adapted into a television miniseries in 2008.

Check out which audio books are available on page 76 and on our in-flight entertainment system.

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DREAMS MADE OF STEEL BY LISA GAIL SHANNEN.

PHOTO BY ROMAN GERASYMENKO.

Reykjavík

It took six tons of stainless steel and 3,250 hours of work to craft Jón Gunnar Árnason’s remarkable Sun Voyager sculpture. Located on the main coastal path on Sæbraut street in Reykjavík, it was Reynir G. Hjálmtýsson and his humble two-man team who were charged with the gargantuan task of bringing Jón’s artistic vision to a solid and magnificent 56-ft-long (17-m) reality. The intensive polishing of the surfaces alone constituted 60% of the labor involved. The striking work of art, which has around 525 ft (160 m) of flawless welded seams, resembles a Viking ship and

was conceptualized by the sculptor during a vivid dream of ancient voyages and discovery. Since its installation in 1990, it has become one of the city’s most famous landmarks, with a constant stream of visitors flocking to photograph it. The sculpture site, which is the main highlight of the Sculpture and Shore Walk, has extensive views across the bay towards Mt. Esja, creating a spectacular backdrop for snapshots, especially when framed by those glorious summer sunsets or the equally impressive winter northern lights.

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LOVING THE WATER Portraying Aquaman in the DC Universe is the perfect fit for Jason Momoa because he loves the ocean— whether it’s the frigid fjords of Iceland or the warm waves of his home state, Hawaii. BY TINA JØHNK CHRISTENSEN. PHOTOS COURTESY OF TRUENORTH / WARNER BROS.

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Jason Momoa loves the water no matter what. When he was in Iceland in 2016, shooting Justice League, he was unafraid of plunging into the cold waters of the sub-Arctic. That’s why the 39-year-old actor is the perfect fit for Aquaman in the DC Universe’s Justice League and Aquaman, released in 2017 and 2018. Jason, who was born in Hawaii and grew up in Iowa, became an instant icon after portraying the muscular, long-haired king Khal Drogo, who spoke Dothraki with the Mother of Dragons in Game of Thrones. Today, aside from Aquaman, he can be seen in TV series Frontier and upcoming series See. He lives outside of Los Angeles with his wife, Lisa Bonet, and their two kids. You went to Iceland to shoot Justice League in 2016. What was it like? I didn’t get to have the pleasure to go to Iceland during Game of Thrones, so that was my first time there and it is unbelievable. It’s one of the most magical places I’ve ever been in my life and I would love to spend a lot of time in Iceland, I really would. I would recommend it to anyone. It’s so special.

Did you learn Icelandic while you were there? Oh yeah, absolutely. I had a teacher and then one of the actors I worked with was amazing. I had a coach who taught me how to speak the language. Do you remember any Icelandic? It’s like saying do I know Dothraki right now. [Challenge me] on a Sunday morning, sweetheart, sure, let me […] whip out some Icelandic [laughs]. What’s your relationship to water? And can you deal with cold water? Well, I love cold. I think it’s the perfect split between how I was raised. Being born in Hawaii, I am very connected to the ocean. I come from a big family of watermen who are lifeguards and surfers. And then Iowa is cold, so I like the cold. I don’t like being in the heat just in general. So cold water works for me. And you studied marine biology, right? Isn’t that weird? I’m obviously a huge ocean fan; I definitely love the ocean and I wanted to be a marine biologist when I was little. In high school there was this campus that you could

go to get credits for college. We’d go down into the Florida Keys and study over spring break. And then I was a biology major and was going to Hawaii to continue on, and then the TV show [he appeared on Baywatch, 1999–2001] came and then I was an actor. What has been your most extreme adventure on the ocean? I went on a big surfing trip and I drowned. My friends couldn’t get to me. My daughter was very young and it was the first time in my life I gave up. My body could not move anymore. I couldn’t breathe at all. It was only because I couldn’t breathe. I used to smoke and I was very good at holding my breath for a very long time. I still battled many waves, but the waves were too big and they couldn’t get to me in time. I hit the other reef and I was waiting for my friends to get to me. I was almost a mile out in the middle of the ocean. But I lived. This was about 10–11 years ago, but I went out the next day and did it again. I wanted to teach to my kids that if you want to do it again, you have to do it. You have to learn.

What went through your mind when you couldn’t breathe? It was terrifying. I prayed to my ancestors. I prayed to my grandmother and my grandfather. I could have been away out on the ocean, but I hit something and I dug my feet in. That was the other reef. And then my friends could see where I was at and they finally got to me. But I learned my lesson, obviously, and I never smoked again. Never smoked again. You went to Tibet as a young man. What kind of insights did you get there? It was like a child’s dreamland. I remembered it being very otherworldly—the smells and everything. It’s definitely the most different or dynamic place I have been in my life. I do not remember seeing children that happy, ever. They had nothing and they had smiles bigger than any kid I have ever seen. They have something that we obviously do not have. I’m not sure what that is. You’re very muscular. Is there one exercise you could never do without? I cannot do without rock climbing: the act of climbing. I like the way I move, and I like the

way I feel. I like the way my body hangs off my arms and my fingers. You love training in the morning. How do you manage to get yourself out of bed? I’m a morning guy. I’m a total morning guy. I wake up and it’s like Christmas. I’m just that way. I wake up with so much stupid energy. [...] I love torturing my workout partners or whoever I’m with, because they are not morning people and I can just destroy them because I’m happy in the morning. Previous page: Jason Momoa as Arthur Curry, the true king of Atlantis, in Aquaman. Top left: Arthur Curry and Mera (Amber Heard), queen of the sea, on a mission to retrieve King Atlan’s missing Trident of Neptune. Bottom left: Bruce Wayne / Batman (Ben Affleck) trying to recruit Arthur Curry / Aquaman for Justice League. Right: From Justice League. All stills ©Warner Bros.

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Djúpavík n

MY LOCATION:

WHEN SUPERHEROES MEET SUPERNATURE BY LISA GAIL SHANNEN. “You’re out of your mind, Bruce Wayne!” exclaims Aquaman, just before throwing himself backwards into the freezing embrace of an icy sea and disappearing. You might say the same to Aquaman himself, portrayed by Jason Momoa. The Justice League scene he was performing in (apart from the icebergs floating in the distance) was completely real—no luxuries like warm-water filled studio tanks involved. The scene, also starring Ben Affleck as Bruce Wayne / Batman, was filmed on the shores of Djúpavík, a remote fishing village on the Strandir coast of Iceland’s Westfjords. The tiny settlement, with only 11 houses and three permanent residents, is set deep in a fjord surrounded by towering mountains and overlooked in the background by high, angular cliffs

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from which an attractive waterfall cascades. Filming his debut as the DC Comics superhero, Jason strips down to the waist (showing off his serious upper-body strength) before braving the extremely cold sub-Arctic sea. But he doesn’t even lose his breath as he endures temperatures as low as 37–39°F (3–4°C)! Perhaps the beauty of the surrounding landscapes, not to mention all those great potential climbing spots (he’s also an avid rock climber), had already stolen his breath. Together with cast members Ben Affleck, Amber Heard and Willem Dafoe, Jason arrived in tiny Djúpa vík in October 2016 to film scenes for the epic superhero ensemble movie. The varied and versatile landscapes of Iceland have been employed for authentic dramatic effect in countless blockbuster films over the years, but it was the

The cast and crew of DC Comic’s Justice League descend on Djúpavík. first time this village starred in such a large project. The location, scouted a year earlier by super vising location manager Thor Kjartansson from the Icelandic production company Truenorth, says the area was selected for both its “genuine remote and rustic appeal,” with the old Djúpavík herring factory providing a “perfect setting and atmosphere for their interior shots.” “It was also quite challenging,” adds Thor, explaining the limitat ions of filming in such an isolated area. “There’s only one hotel with eight rooms in Djúpavík and we had 300-plus crew members. So, we ended up building a campervan village to accommodate everyone. We had bonfires and entertainment and we made a bar in the old section of the herring factory. It was a different setup than what they were used to, but it ended up

being one hell of an adventure for everyone.” That included the locals, too. Some, such as the entire family of the one hotel in town and their dogs (Sóley and Freyja), ended up in the film as extras. Thor adds, “They know all the stories about the fun we had, so [for visitors and fans] it’s definitely worth the trip.” Top: View of Reykjarfjörður fjord by which Djúpavík stands. Photo by Robert Postma. Bottom left: Jason Momoa wades unfazed into the freezing sea. Photo courtesy of Truenorth / Warner Bros. Bottom right: Dramatic backdrop of Djúpavík featuring the stunning waterfall and cliffs. Photo by Roland A. Mores.

Laxnes Horse Farm is a family owned and operated horse farm offering daily tours since 1968. With a wide range of horses we specialize in short and long tours designed to introduce our customers to the amazing, gentle and one of a kind Icelandic horse. Additionally we offer a variety of combination tours letting you get the most out of your day in Iceland. We offer pickup service in Reykjavik and the farm’s easy to find location just outside Reykjavik makes joining our tours easy if you have a car. “The best way to see Icelandic nature is from the back of a horse. Laxnes is our home and with our horses being part of the family our main goal has always been to combine well organized professionalism with a warm and friendly family atmosphere.” Haukur Thorarinsson Manager

Laxnes Horse Farm 271 Mosfellsbær Iceland Tel: +354 566 6179 info@laxnes.is

Qr code to www.laxnes.is

To celebrate our 50th anniversary in 2018 a live size statue of Neisti, our first horse, was commisioned and made by our local workshop Ásgarður which is a protected workplace employing over 30 disabled people and assistants. The workshop outdid themselves this time producing a roughly 500kg three dimensional wooden statue which stands on a 12 metric ton rock unearthed at the farm. The statue of Neisti stands proud and ready like it’s namesake and serves as a constant reminder of what can be accomplished with hard work, fairness and good friends.

CONNECT WITH US Follow, like and subcribe to #laxneshorsefarm on social media

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FAIR-WEATHER FRIENDS Iceland welcomes a bevy of feathered stopover guests. BY CAROLYN BAIN.

Budding leaves and blooming bulbs may be springtime markers in other parts of the world, but in Iceland spring is heralded by the golden plover (the lóa in Icelandic), a bird with pretty mottled feathers and an unmistakable call. Lóan er komin! (the lóa has arrived!) is both a well-known folk song and the headline of newspaper articles reporting the first sighting of the season. This welcome migrating guest normally arrives in the final week of March. Iceland is a summertime breeding destination for thousands of birds, and the locals pay heed to the arrival of these visitors: It signals that spring is finally arriving and long daylight and milder weather await. But it’s not just the locals who roll out the welcome mat for these stopover guests—tourists flock (sorry!) to anywhere that offers the promise of puffins. They’re everyone’s favorite bright-beaked clowns, but supporting these headliner acts is a magnificent cast of feathered co-stars, spread across the country. See our map on page 22 for some birding hotspots, and read on for some of the best and most surprising bird-loving locales. Ingólfshöfði, South Iceland In the southeast region of Iceland, where all eyes are drawn to icy flows (and tours to icy

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endeavors), the summertime puffin tour of Ingólfshöfði warms hearts with its homespun charm. Not far from the national-park treasures of Skaftafell, visitors board a tractor-towed hay cart for a rustic journey to the Ingólfshöfði nature reserve, a 250-ft (76m) headland where great skuas nest and puffins take up residence in the cliff edges. After a bumpy open-air ride of 3.7 miles (6 km) across mudflats, the property owners (who have lived in the area for generations) guide guests up a steep sandy trail to an elevated position where the majesty of the Vatnajökull glacier is on full display (on a clear day, that is). The tour begins with a brief history lesson: This is where Iceland’s first settler, Ingólfur Arnarson, spent his first winter in A.D. 874. Then a leisurely 90-minute walk is taken around the flat headland, drinking in the views, marveling over seemingly misplaced sheep, dodging protective skuas, and ogling camera-ready puffin colonies. Tours run from early May to mid-August (when the puffins depart), and pre-booking is required. It’s worth noting that you are very exposed to the elements on this trip, so dress accordingly.

Borgarfjörður eystri, East Iceland I find it hard to sleep when I pay my regular summer visit to Borgarfjörður eystri. I usually arrive buzzing on a splendorinduced high after driving the spectacular approach road, 43 unpaved miles (70 km) from Egilsstaðir, and sleep doesn’t come easily. On recent trips, I have developed the habit of paying a post-midnight visit to Hafnarhólmi, 3 miles (5 km) outside the village, where I can sit alone on the viewing platforms among prolific birdlife, listening to puffins warble and gulls screech while admiring the pink summer sky that won’t darken properly for weeks. Hafnarhólmi is a small bird-filled hill by a picturesque marina, and a timber staircase climbs the hillside and levels out at platforms where you can observe puffins going about their business from marvelously close proximity; a small birdwatching

hide is also available. The hill’s raucous cliffs are more than just a puffin playground from May to mid-August—thousands of kittiwakes, fulmars and eider ducks also nest here each summer. Drangey, North Iceland It’s no mean feat to combine a boat tour and adrenaline-inducing hike with superb birdwatching and storytelling, but a summertime trip to Drangey, a rocky volcanic islet in North Iceland’s Skagafjörður, does it with aplomb. From a tiny dock north of Sauðárkrókur, a morning boat sets off on one of Iceland’s least hyped but most fun adventures. After a 20-minute trip across the fjord waters, the boat reaches a small dock at the foot of this 590-ft (180-m), sheer-sided rock fortress, and the adventure begins: Rough-hewn steps, ladders and narrow trails climb up the cliff-edge to reach the grassy top, from where the 360°

panoramas are mind-blowing and the birdlife magical. Sitting on the grass watching the comical departures and landings of puffins, auks and guillemots is entertaining enough, but the island’s connections to Grettis Saga, a tale of outlaws as recounted by guide Helgi, enrich the experience.

Previous page: Ingólfshöfði puffin. Photo by Einar Rúnar Sigurðsson.

Note that this tour is physically challenging, and not for small kids or people with mobility issues or a fear of heights! Rest assured, you can go at your own pace, but at your own risk. The exhilaration of the climb is matched by the views.

Bottom left: The trail from Drangey’s boat dock. Photo by Carolyn Bain.

Top left: The approach to Drangey. Photo by Kári Heiðar Árnason. Top right: Views across Skagafjörður from atop Drangey. Photo by Helgi Rafn Viggósson.

Bottom center: Ingólfshöfði puffins. Photo by Einar Rúnar Sigurðsson. Bottom left and right: Climbing Drangey. Photo by Carolyn Bain.

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BIRDWATCHING HOTSPOTS Got a thing for feathers? Twitch away, friends. This map barely scratches the surface of the avian riches to be found across Iceland, from tiny islets and soaring sea cliffs to lakes, ponds and lagoons that play host to countless visitors with a starring role on birders’ checklists. 1. Reykjavík Birds enjoy city life too, if Tjörnin pond and the wetlands of Vatnsmýri are any indication.

2. Arnastapi Rocky arches meet nesting seabirds.

3. Látrabjarg Iceland’s westernmost point, and Europe’s largest bird cliff.

4. Vigur Abundant eider and puffins visit this view-enriched island.

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5. Drangey An adventurous tour lets you clamber to the top of this islet.

6. Grímsey Bountiful birds, plus the Arctic Circle crossing point.

7. Langanes A remote duck-shaped peninsula teeming with birdlife.

8. Mývatn A lake named for its insect life is a magnet for ducks and other waterfowl.

Tractor journey across mudflats at Ingólfshöfði, with views to Vatnajökull. Photo by Einar Rúnar Sigurðsson.

9. Borgafjörður eystri Come eye-to-eye with puffin posses in this secluded spot.

10. Papey Solitude, a mysterious religious past, and seabirds aplenty.

11. Ingólfshöfði A promontory rich in birds, panoramas and history.

12. Vestmannaeyjar Storied southern islands overflowing with puffins.

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Special Promotion

THE BEAUTY OF BIRDS Fascinated with birds since his childhood, Sigurjón Pálsson designs quality souvenirs from wood: elegantly made waders, puffins and other animals.

Flip over this magazine and you’ll discover our exclusive Saga Shop Collection of on-board duty-free products.

Sigurjón Pálsson. Photo by Katla Leósdóttir.

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Sigurjón Pálsson studied design at The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts but had been working as an author when a knee surgery led him back to design. “I was having trouble sitting down for long stretches of time, so I brought out my old sketchbook. Before long, birds appeared on the paper,” says Sigurjón. “Originally I designed my Shorebirds for a friend, a retired carpenter, who was looking for small, suitable things for the lathe in his old workshop, to turn and sell at the local handcraft market in our native town, Húsavík.” When the first birds were ready, Sigurjón sent a picture to Normann Copenhagen. The next morning he received a phone call, inquiring whether his birds were available. Turned from oak, the sleek and stylish Shorebirds collection features three species of waders in different sizes and colors. “The sale far exceeded our expectations,” says Sigurjón. “And now, five years later, demand is still growing.”

Húsavík

Reykjavík

In collaboration with Epal design house in Reykjavík, Sigurjón also designs souvenirs like puffins, hens and whales, produced by Path, the firm he runs with his son. “I wanted to raise the standards of Icelandic souvenirs. The market was flooded with cheap rag dolls and other trinkets, and especially the poor puffin had fallen victim to that process. It was quite challenging for me to make a quality design item out of the puffin,” says Sigurjón, adding that the bird has become iconic for Iceland. “It’s thanks to the tourists. The bird is so special; it’s such a character. It cannot be confused with any other bird in the world. It has automatically become a brand for Iceland tours and at the same time, an obvious souvenir.” Sigurjón’s elegantly turned Puffin, in black and white with a colorful beak, is available in Saga Shop, along with the Normann Copenhagen Shorebird Mini.

Completing the Golden Circle

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LEGGJABRJÓTUR:

BREAK A LEG! At the far end of Hvalfjörður, an epic trail begins, leading across cloud-capped hills and over storied streams.

BY KARIN MURRAY-BERGQUIST.

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Þingvellir

North of Reykjavík, the Ring Road dips under Hvalfjörður, providing a quick shortcut to North Iceland. For those who take the long way around, however, the end of the fjord has its own rewards. A signpost points from the road, towards the parking lot where two hikes begin. One leads to the waterfall Glymur, the other to Leggjabrjótur, an adventurous 12-mile (19-km) hike whose eventual destination— Þingvellir, now a national park—is the ancient site of the first Icelandic parliament. The Trail to Þingvellir The Leggjabrjótur trailhead leads past the turn-off towards Glymur, and on into a slope of bracken and pressed earth. The hills rise on each side as if to remind the hiker to enjoy

the easy path while they can, and a convenient bridge allows hikers to cross the first stream, at least, with dry feet. It’s a gentle start to a long and varied trail. The name means “leg-breaker,” and it’s a rigorous hike in some places, particularly the deceptively flat stretches of broken stones covered in moss. But the name does not originally refer to people—rather, it was horses that were in danger during the centuries that the path was used to ride to the parliament, Alþingi. Luckily, most people today choose to take it on foot. As with many Icelandic landscapes, there’s also a connection to the sagas. The trail starts in Botnsdalur, where Hörður, one of the

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protagonists in Harðar saga og Hólmverja, is said to have lived. From the valley, the trail becomes more dramatic as it rises to the mountainous range of Botnssúlur, then evens out to a fairly gentle elevation, with cloud-capped mountains enclosing the hills and rocky scree that make up the path. On the last stretch of the trail, the rounded hills part, and the shining water of Þingvallavatn interrupts the horizon across an expanse of stone. Still far off, the illusion of proximity is tantalizing, a reminder that without trees to break up the view, it’s easy to

underestimate the distance. The trail ends in the dramatic rift valley of Þingvellir, where two tectonic plates meet. Flora, Fauna and Fantasy At first, Leggjabrjótur resembles the nearby waterfall hike—a small and twisting path jogs its way over stones and around birches and small bushes, with steep drop-offs into streams on one side. Though not a hard slope, the trail winds distinctly upwards, towards something of a plateau near a wide bird-haven of a lake. This is Sandvatn, edged by reeds

Previous page, top left: Hills extend to the horizon. Photo by Karin Murray-Bergquist. Previous page, bottom left: Water from the trail is cold and refreshing. Photo by Kristín Jónsdóttir. Center: The scenic route around Hvalfjörður. Photo by Kristín Jónsdóttir. Top right: Always have a good route map on hand. Bottom right: The calm pools of Þingvellir are a striking color. Photo courtesy of Guide to Iceland.

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Top: Þingvellir’s dramatic landscape inspires visitors. Photo courtesy of Guide to Iceland. Bottom: Take breaks along the way to breathe in the peace and quiet. Photo by Kristín Jónsdóttir.

and surrounded by gentle slopes and occasional outcrops of rock. After Sandvatn, the trail more or less follows the river Öxará, the subject of a legend telling that it turns to either blood or red wine on New Year’s Eve. The transformation of the river was said to be prophetic for the year ahead: Blood meant strife, whereas wine meant prosperity. The trails here are narrow and sometimes steep, but the views from the top are worth it: Looking down into grassy valleys with sparkling streams, or upward to the rounded heads of the higher hills, lost in cloud. Cairns mark the way—a reminder of the importance of letting them be, as they are helpful navigational aids, and should not be built nor taken apart by hikers passing by. The higher ground is peppered with larger rocks, many of which are covered in soft moss, making it treacherous to cross—and giving some explanation for the trail’s name. Without horses, however, there’s less risk of injury, and darting among the stones can be a great deal of fun for the hiker with an affinity for obstacle courses. The next part of the trail is boggier, as it dips down towards lower ground where several broad, shallow streams emerge. Along the way, there are islets of wild thyme, the smell subtly wafting on the air. The plants here are delicate, despite their hardiness, and though they should not be picked, they should definitely be photographed or drawn by hand. There is one thing that can be gathered freely from the trail: water. As clear streams cross the hiking path, it’s possible and indeed encouraged to fill a bottle with their delicious water. This is both essential for hydration, and a welcome relief after several hours on the trail. Water is a constant companion along Leggjabrjótur, between the streams that can

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trip up the inattentive, the brilliant ripples of Sandvatn and the occasional waterfalls that appear behind sudden cliffs. Practical Remarks Speaking of water, there is one wider stream crossing—neither too deep nor too fierce, but requiring some wading. This takes place close to the last segment of the hike, but use caution as it would still be unpleasant to hike several miles in wet clothing. The chances of breaking a leg on the trail are fortunately minimal, and hikers in good condition can manage it without much difficulty. But the main challenge is to keep on the right trail. Although the trailhead is well-marked, some places further along are more difficult to find. The route to Sandvatn and the parts marked by cairns are usually clear, but among the rocks and tussocks, as well as the hills after the stream crossing, routes diverge and there are no signposts. Visitors without knowledge of the area are

not encouraged to try it without an experienced guide. The other question is that of time—for most hikers, 6–7 hours is long enough for one day, so a return trip would be difficult. It’s a good idea to leave time for exploring the sights of Þingvellir, which may involve camping at one of the two nearby campsites. Otherwise, visitors should arrange transport from Þingvellir to their next destination. Leggjabrjótur is best attempted with a group or a knowledgeable guide, and hikers should leave their route plan with a friend or in the dashboard of their car—and on safetravel.is. Food and water are important, as are good hiking boots, extra socks and a local map. Bring a GPS or compass, and know how to use them. For safety information, safetravel.is is an essential resource. There’s also an app, Wapp—The Walking App, that includes Leggjabrjótur as a route.

PASSION, PERSEVERANCE AND PRIDE

Icelandic football legend Sara Björk Gunnarsdóttir has her eyes on the ultimate prize.

BY LISA GAIL SHANNEN. PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE FOOTBALL ASSOCIATION OF ICELAND.

Where did you grow up and what were the training grounds like? I grew up in Hafnarfjörður. It’s different now, kids today have amazing facilities and support. Back then I trained outside, the facilities were not like they are today but I still loved it, playing even in the snow, wind and rain. I showed up to every training session.

You don’t get to be captain of the Icelandic National Football team without solid, hard graft, and Iceland’s 2018 Sportsperson of the Year, Sara Björk Gunnarsdóttir, has been preparing since the age of six. Icelandair Stopover caught up with the 28-year-old midfield star who also plays for top division team, VfL Wolfsburg in Germany. Congratulations on your football achievements and becoming Iceland’s 2018 Sportsperson of the Year. What does the award mean to you? It means a lot; it’s one of the biggest honors you can get as a sportsperson in Iceland. We have so many amazing athletes, so just to be nominated in the top 10 is an achievement I was happy with. And then winning the prize was

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a bit unreal. You work so hard to achieve your goals, so to get recognition for it is an honor. How did you celebrate? I was with my boyfriend Alex ander at the ceremony and then was invited afterwards to my friend’s [Rakel Hönnudóttir, from the national team] 30 th birthday party. I think we only slept for two or three hours before we got on a plane to London to spend the New Year there. Did you always want to be a footballer? How did you get into the sport? I was pretty young when I started playing football. I was six years old. I think it was the right sport for me since I was really competitive. My father played football and he took me to my first training game. After that, I was hooked. I loved the competition, I loved to play, and win, of course. I hated to lose, I was so competitive.

Does growing up with Icelandic weather help? It’s quite funny because when I play abroad and we are training in the wind, rain or snow, everyone says, “Hey, it’s like Icelandic weather!” Yes, we get everything in Iceland and I may be more used to the cold, but that doesn’t mean I like it. What was the first team you supported? I grew up watching the Premier League with my dad and he loved Leeds United. At the time I

was fascinated with Manchester United. I didn’t have any football idols, but I loved watching David Beckham, Paul Scholes and Ryan Giggs. I just really enjoyed football and spending time with my dad watching it. What are the standout moments of your career so far? There have been many highlights, [such as] the first time we qualified with the national team for a big tournament. Also, being a female professional soccer player is a privilege and something I’m really proud of, and it’s always an honor to be able to lead the national team onto the field. Being just a whisker away from qualifying for the World Cup, what were your takeaways from the experience? Yeah, it was a big opportunity for us and it was really exciting. We were so close to qualifying and we had some good games. It was disappointing to be so close and

it’s hard to describe the feeling, but the only thing you can do is leave it in the past and move forward. I’m excited to see what the year is going to bring us. We, of course, want to play in the big tournaments and I think we have the potential to do it. Now you have a new coach, Jón Þór Hauksson. What lies ahead for the national team and what are you most looking forward to? Yes, we have a new coach and of course there are changes. Last year there were ups and downs and it’s been a bit like a roller coaster, but there are always positive things with changes and I think it was good for the team to get someone new in and start a new chapter. The next big competition we are looking forward to is the Euros [EUFA European Championships]. In the long term I would love to go to the World Cup; it would be a dream.

What do you do for fun? With the national team, there’s only a short window of time when you can meet up; everyone usually has to leave the day after so we don’t have much time to celebrate. We have a dinner after every game, and sometimes in between games and training we just hang out, drink coffee and watch movies. Are there any practical jokers on the team? Yes, we have two, Hallbera Guðný Gísladóttir and Fanndís Friðriksdóttir. They like playing tricks on each other and there’s always laughter.

I also miss the nature and the calmness. Finally, what are your favorite places in Iceland? Kirkjubæjarklaustur in the southeast of Iceland. It’s a place where I can relax; I don’t have to use my phone, computer or TV, it’s just peaceful. On the way there, there’s a place called Dyrhólaey close to Reynisfjara [beach], which is breathtaking. I’d definitely recommend it. Icelandair is a proud sponsor of the Icelandic national football teams.

Previous page: Sara Björk leads the Viking clap after a 0–1 defeat in a friendly against Brazil in 2017. Top left: Battle over the ball in Iceland vs. Brazil. Top right: Sara Björk leads a young footballer into Laugardalsvöllur stadium before the 2019 World Cup qualifier game against the Faroe Islands. Iceland won 8–0. Bottom: The captain in action.

What do you miss most about Iceland when you’re away? My mom’s cooking. When I go home I go straight to my mom’s and eat. She’s the best cook; she makes this crazy-nice salmon with sweet potatoes and salad.

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THE GATE TO THE ATLANTIC The Blue Diamond is a stunning tourist route designed for Stopover travelers. BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTOS BY OZZO. Wind in my face, I take in the view before me. On the left: Valahnúkur, with its vertical sea cliff, and on the right: the white tower of Reykjanesviti, one of Iceland’s oldest lighthouses. Off shore, sea stack Karlinn appears as gatekeeper to the wild Atlantic Ocean. Welcome to the Blue Diamond, a true gem of a tourist route, right next to Keflavík International Airport. Alien Attractions Perched on Iceland’s southwestern edge, Reykjanes peninsula is the region most tourists first set foot in. Yet it’s quite often overlooked as people quickly move on to Reykjavík and the country’s most famous attractions. A volcanic wonderland—and in fact a certified UNESCO Geopark—Reykjanes is covered in ancient lava fields. Without the deep fjords and tall mountains as seen in other parts of the country, the landscape seems out of this world. Hidden in the lava are natural wonders and other attractions that can be visited as part of the Blue Diamond tourist route, a brand developed by local pioneers and tourism companies. Map Out Your Magnets Designed specially with Stopover passengers in mind, the Blue Diamond can be toured in as little as one hour—perfect for an escape from the airport while waiting for a connecting flight. But there’s plenty to see and experience on longer excursions. At bluediamond.is, travelers can tailor their adventures to their timeframes and personal appetites, then opt for a rental car or a tour bus. You could, for example, check out a few geological gems before a warming lobster soup at a cozy café, then try out the slides at a local swimming pool, followed by a visit to a Viking ship museum. The choice is yours.

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Previous page: Reykjanesviti lighthouse on the right and Valahnúkur mountain on the left; Karlinn in the sea on the right, and Eldey island on the horizon. Left: Brimketill, a naturally carved pool. Right: Karlinn, a majestic crater tap.

BLUE DIAMOND HIGHLIGHTS A string of gemstones not to be missed on the Reykjanes tourist route. 1.

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4. Gunnuhver – The largest mud geyser in Iceland is named after a 400-year-old poltergeist. The ghost of Gunna wreaked havoc until a priest trapped her in the boiling hot spring. Her spirit still haunts it, so beware! Also, locals used to bake bread in the hot ground here.

5. Stampar – A series of craters created in two eruptions, about 800 and 2,000 years ago. The two craters closest to the road at the north end of the crater row date back

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to the “Reykjanes Fires” (1210–1240). Walk inside a living volcano and take in the view of the lava fields, or, if you have time to spare, follow the signposted “Hundred Crater Trail” into the lava.

6. Reykjanes Lighthouse – One of Iceland’s oldest lighthouses stands stately on Bæjarfell; its light signal at 226 ft (69 m) above sea level. Its predecessor— constructed on Valahnúkur in 1878—was the country’s first; the lighting equipment a gift from Frederick VIII of Denmark. His visit in 1906 is considered to mark the start of tourism in Iceland.

3. Reykjanes Power Plant – With capacity of 100 MW, the plant began generating electricity for the national grid in 2006. The plant uses up to 608°F (320°C) hot steam and brine, extracted from twelve 8,858-ft (2,700-m) boreholes in the area.

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Keflavík International Airport – The main gateway to Iceland with about 96% of international traffic. The Blue Diamond tourist route loops from the airport. Bridge Between Continents – Built as a symbol for the connection between Europe and North America, the small footbridge lies across a fissure created by great forces underneath the Earth’s crust that pull the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates apart.

Valahnúkur – Formed in a single eruption when 2,192°F (1,200°C) hot lava rapidly cooled down in the cold sea, Valahnúkur is an easy hike, offering splendid views across Reykjanes and the Atlantic. The beach next to it is filled with boulders tossed ashore by wild waves.

8. Karlinn – “The Man” is a 164-ft (50-m) high crater tap that stands majestically in the ocean off the beach by Valahnúkur. There used to be a “Kerlingin” (“The Woman”), but she washed away into the ocean a long time ago and the poor widower has been alone since.

9. Eldey – About 9.6 miles (15 km) off shore, “Fire Island”—one of the world’s largest gannet colonies—rises 253 ft (77 m) out of the sea. Eldey used to be home to the now extinct great auks. By Valahnúkur, a lone statue of the big flightless bird stands facing the island.

10. Brimketill – The small pool, naturally carved by marine erosion, can be viewed from a platform near Gunnuhver. The powerful surf is mesmerizing but equally dangerous, so keep a safe distance. The only one allowed to bathe in the pool is a giantess named Oddný.

11. Seltún – The high-temperature geothermal area that features a variety of hot springs: bubbling mud pots, simmering streams and steaming fumaroles. The multicolor ground surprises with shades from pale yellow to bright red, and turquoise to dark green.

12. Kleifarvatn – The largest lake on Reykjanes is at 318 ft (97 m) one of the deepest in Iceland and, according to legend, home to a whale-shaped monster! Due to earthquakes, water is slowly draining from the lake—it featured in a 2004 crime novel by Arnaldur Indriðason.

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TRUE COLORS Director Ásthildur Kjartansdóttir’s first feature film, The Deposit (Tryggð), raises questions about relations between Ice landers and immigrants.

BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTOS COURTESY OF ASKJA FILMS. “Through the entire filmmaking process, I wasn’t nervous. But now I’m nervous!” director Ásthildur Kjartansdóttir admits before the Icelandic premiere of her first feature film, The Deposit (Tryggð), in late January. Soon after, leading actor Elma Lísa Gunnarsdóttir’s face appears on the huge projection screen. Her character, Gísella, is obviously distraught. Her powerful presence demands attention from the audience, giving them a feeling of discomfort which sets the tone for the film. Allegory for Western Authorities Based on Auður Jónsdóttir’s novel Tryggðarpantur (2006), the film tells the story of Gísella Dal, who lives by herself in a large house she inherited from her grandmother. Used to a fancy lifestyle, she suddenly finds herself in financial trouble. As Gísella has quit her newspaper job, she agrees to write an article on the housing problems of immigrants for a different publication. While researching the story she comes across two women living

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in a rundown building—one of them with her young daughter—and invites them to move in to her house. Gísella thinks of herself as being charitable, but also, their rent money will help sort out her situation. “As much as she is fallible, we wanted to turn her into a human being; that was our goal,” says Ásthildur. She and Elma Lísa worked on developing Gísella’s character for three years prior to filming. “In the book she is also a symbol for vexing authorities. Populists who have seized power in Europe. If you take that out, the story loses its allegory. It’s difficult, holding on to both, the humanity and the symbolism, but I think we succeeded.” Elma Lísa adds, “We changed a number of things because we wanted Gísella to have a substantial background. In the book, everything is vague, like where she gets her money from. It was exciting trying to work out these elements, to make the rather annoying Gísella interesting, even sympathetic and multilayered.” Laying Down the Rules At first, the living situation appears a success. Marisol from Colombia (Raffaella Brizuela Sigurðardóttir), Abeba (Enid Mbabazi) and her daughter Luna (Claire Harpa Kristinsdóttir)

from Uganda are grateful that Gísella has invited them to stay in her beautiful home and accept the initial house rules and the deposit, the advance payment she asks for. Gísella seems pleased to have company and eager to get to know her roommates—and use their stories for her article. She develops an affection for Luna, which makes Abeba feel uneasy. It turns out that Gísella once had a baby, but lost it. “The baby was not in the book,” explains Elma Lísa. “We included it to give her a background story so that it’s easier to connect with her and better understand the heart of the movie, which is the relationship between Gísella and Luna.” Gradually, the situation unravels. Gísella

believes the women should respect her more and hence, comes up with new house rules, whereas her roommates find her to be unfair and begin to rebel against her. And the hostility escalates on both fronts. “You never get to know anyone as well as when you live with them,” states Ásthildur. “Then, you can’t hide anything. You show your true colors. The film is in fact more about human interaction than interaction between Icelanders and immigrants.” Elma Lísa reveals: “Some people have told me that they understood Gísella very well.” The Paradox of Immigration Yet the film inevitably raises questions about immigrants and their situation in Iceland. “We want manual laborers to come work here. They have low-paying jobs and immediately get a poor status in society,” says Elma Lísa. “And we want to keep the salaries low to keep the prices down.” The book—contrary to the film, which is set in Reykjavík—takes place in an unspecified European city. “Auður was living in Denmark at the time [of writing it] when there were protests and riots,” says Ásthildur, adding

that immigration had not yet become a major issue in Iceland. “Now we’re find ourselves in this situation with the housing problem constantly in the news. The film fits well into the discussion about class and calls for strike among foreigners on low salaries.” If Gísella’s house is an allegory for Icelandic society, how could she have avoided conflict with her roommates? “First of all, we shouldn’t try to adapt foreigners to us. If we try, we’ve failed already. The good old rule applies, that we cannot change other people even though we want to, but that we can change ourselves,” opines Ásthildur. “We need these people. We can learn so much from them. My God! We lack broad-mindedness. We’re

an island. We need foreigners. When we’ve generally recognized that, then we can think about how to welcome them with dignity.” Pioneering Women There were many “firsts” about The Deposit. It was Ásthildur’s first feature film. She has previously directed numerous documentaries, shorts and fiction for television. “I bought the rights to the book in 2008 and applied for funding but always got a ‘no’.” Ásthildur almost gave the project up but with the help of producer Eva Sigurðardóttir at Askja Films, among others, they eventually secured funds through a film recruitment platform. “I had to fight like a lion and I actually believe that it was more difficult because I’m a woman. I wish I could have made more films for practice. Women need to have a voice.” It was also the first film in Iceland with a 50 / 50 gender ratio among the filmmaking staff and the first to obtain an albert certification as an environmentally sustainable production. Moreover, The Deposit was the first Icelandic film where the main female character ap-

pears in every single frame—and hence, it was Elma Lísa’s biggest role to date. “The stress before the premiere… No pressure!” She laughs. “But mainly it was fun because I had never tried it before, playing such a big role. A part like that is really good for character creation, doing so much and taking it all the way.” And it was the first acting experience for her supporting actors. “People asked me, ‘Are you going to do your first film with inexperienced actors and a child?’,” reveals Ásthildur. “It was a challenge. We had many auditions, Elma and I, to find the right actors. Then we practiced a lot and it went really well.” Elma Lísa adds, “And acting opposite these women gives it more of a realistic feel; acting opposite strangers with different backgrounds

creates tension and we believe that it shows.” She notes that despite the friction in the film, the atmosphere on set was good. “Claire was such a sweetheart. What is wonderful about children is that they either have it or they don’t. She just has it in her.” Elma Lísa stresses, “Everyone did a tremendous job. It was invaluable, getting to know these women.” You can watch The Deposit with English subtitles on our in-flight entertainment system.

Previous page: Director Ásthildur Kjartansdóttir (right) with Elma Lísa Gunnarsdóttir and Claire Harpa Kristinsdóttir on set. Photo by Lilja Jónsdóttir. Left: Gísella with her roommates Marisol (Raffaella Brizuela Sigurðardóttir) and Abeba (Enid Mbabazi) while they were still on good terms. Photo by Julie Rowland. Right: Gísella, the journalist, investigating the housing situation of immigrants. Photo by Lilja Jónsdóttir.

Check out which other films and TV shows are available on page 76 and on our in-flight entertainment system.

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Seljalandsfoss n

MIDNIGHT SUN Staying up late in the long summer light. BY CAROLYN BAIN. PHOTO BY SHUTTERSTOCK. In Iceland in June, the sun extends a sincere (albeit belated) apology for its winter disappearing act. Remorse is demonstrated in the form of near omnipresence: There is a springtime battle to vanquish darkness that sees the sun emerge victorious, and the prize is near-endless bright skies. The summer solstice, when the sun peaks and produces the longest day of the year, occurs on June 21. On this date, Reykjavík’s sunrise is at 2:55 am; sunset occurs 21 hours later at 00:03 am. For three hours of twilight, the sun sits just below the horizon and delivers lingering natural light. (Fun fact, for contrast: December’s winter solstice offers a mere four hours and seven minutes of daylight in the Icelandic capital.) The further north you travel in Iceland, of course, the more prolonged the summer light. Akureyri boasts 23.5 hours of light on June 21; Ísafjörður has 24-hour brightness, and Grímsey (the only part of Iceland within the Arctic Circle) also has perpetual light. The sun’s apology is not so humble that it comes with genuine warmth—in the tropical sense—but as the daytime temperatures hopefully nudge the mid-’60s (Fahrenheit), and the late-evening skies take on a pinky-peach glow, winter’s gloom is generally forgiven. Midnight Sun for Visitors For six weeks either side of the June 21 solstice, you’ll enjoy bright nights: The sun lingers long and low on the horizon like a welcome dinner guest. Even after its sunset departure a rosy afterglow will remain. Sightseeing under the midnight sun is a joy (after all, there are fewer busloads at waterfalls at 11 pm). Bird-filled cliffs offer a comforting soundtrack of warbling. Hot tubs and springs offer delicious warmth and may help to edge insomniacs closer to sleep. There are events, too (see page 58). The summer solstice was traditionally a time of bounty in the lives of the Nordic nations and a cause for celebration. Be ready to enjoy a burst of energy and a crazy sense that time is immaterial.

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A THOUSAND WORDS Thanks to Instagram, Facebook and Twitter, you can share your travel experience with the world. Check out this selection of recent images from our passengers who tagged their pictures with the #MyStopover tag. Pretty great, right? In upcoming issues, we will feature the best pics by users who include the #MyStopover tag. Happy snapping! Please note that by using the #MyStopover hashtag, you are granting us permission to use your image in our magazine or on our social media channels.

Since it rained so much yesterday and last night. I just had to make today a waterfall day. All of these waterfalls have interesting names when translated to English. Gljúfrabúi (one who lives in the canyon). I shhandin I Chandon Pajardo

Join us

One day I hope you take me on your wings again. I jadzia79 I Harald Schaller What’s that old saying about a green sky at night? Iceland is like a fairytale and I’ve wanted to see the Northern Lights since the day I learned about them when I was a kid. Take that, bucket list. I wherecordell I Wes Cordell

Currently working on a plan to move this waterfall to my backyard. I taylorbspencer I Taylor Spencer

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Glacier bl-hues. I mayzo I May Alomari

Reykjavík is such a strange city! Beautiful in its own bizarre way. I jenormond8 I Jennifer Ormond

It smells bad... I mean really BAD!! But it looks amazing. I yvon_83 I Yvonne Verlaan

Supposedly standing on two separate tectonic plates. I kaitlinmtucker I Kaitlin Tucker

Six hour sunset as the darkness chases us from behind. Somewhere over Greenland. I silentroamer I Steven Ta

Back thru Iceland - because it's beautiful, and because we certainly didn't see it all the first time. I marylovesparis I Mary Watson

Last night's Lights Festival in Reykjavik was simply gorgeous! I jerjerjer.jpg I Ang Zhao Yan, Jerald

Myvatn, Iceland. Mars-like landscape. I russdocksteader I Russel Docksteader

Finally made it to @icelandicstreetfood. That lamb soup, y’all! And free soup refills too. I shannondtravels I Shannon DalPozzal

Icelandair Stopover 43

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Stopover 45

PHOTO ESSAY:

ICELANDIC ADVENTURE We had high expectations for Iceland, but by the first evening, they were already met. BY VALENTIN MANHART. PHOTOS BY VALENTIN MANHART AND ROMAN FLEPP (INSTAGRAM.COM/TWINTHEWORLD).

Goðafoss n

Brúarfoss

Reykjanes coastline n

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East Iceland

Vatnajökull

Seljalandsfoss

On September 8 at 5 pm we started our rental car and just drove south from the airport in Keflavík. We had 11 days ahead of us, 11 days to explore this rough fairytale island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. We’re two cousins from Switzerland who have been traveling, photographing and uploading our photos on Instagram together for five years now. We had already seen much of Northern Europe and had heard a lot about Iceland, so our expectations were quite high. But by the first evening—after driving south and then southeast for one hour—our expectations were met. When we got to the coastline, we just had to stop next to the road. The cliffs were amazing, as were the breaking of the waves and harsh wind— exactly what we expected from Iceland. The next day, our search for adventure continued and we found perfect subjects you can’t find anywhere else, like those distinct Icelandic waterfalls, cliffs and mountains. So, we completed our Ring Road drive in those 11 days with many experiences, memories and of course photographs in our backpack. This photo essay should give you an impression of what we witnessed on our Icelandic adventure.

Above: From East Iceland, where the mountains are high, the fjords long and the houses cozy. Opposite page top: A glacial tongue of Vatnajökull at sunrise. We really recommend leaving the car for a moment and going on a hike—you will be surprised to discover what you would have missed if you had just driven by. Opposite page bottom: The coastline we drove along on the first evening showed us that there’s so much more to explore apart from Iceland’s best-known attractions.

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Top: BrĂşarfoss waterfall. Its color still amazes us. Bottom left: GoĂ°afoss waterfall in North Iceland was our favorite waterfall located off the Ring Road. Bottom right: Seljalandsfoss, a pretty well-known but still impressive waterfall with dimensions that gave us goosebumps.

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Icelandair Stopover 49

BY GÍSLI PÁLSSON.

It had been a strenuous day in Copenhagen. As I watched TV one evening in 2007, trying to unwind, I was drawn into a documentary about Danish slavery. Those interviewed were descendants of an enslaved black man, Hans Jonathan (1784–1827), a “mulatto” from the Danish Virgin Islands. I was stunned. Some of these people had been my neighbors in Vestmannaeyjar (the Westman Islands) where I was born and raised. I had not encountered a black person in my childhood and never questioned the tacit assumption that we were all “white.” The impact of the documentary was immediate. As an anthropologist I was curious to know more about the life of Hans Jonathan. Returning to Iceland, I began calling some of his descendants.

THE CURIOUS CASE OF HANS JONATHAN The man who broke free from slavery and became the first black settler of Iceland. n

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Djúpivogur

Who Was He? Hans Jonathan—the son of a house-slave, Emilia Regina of African ancestry, and a Dane (probably musician Hans Gram)—began his life in bondage on the island of St. Croix. At the age of seven he was sent to Copenhagen to join his masters, the Schimmelmann family who were resettling in the city. Ten years later he enlisted in the Danish navy preparing for the Battle of Copenhagen in 1801, which took many lives. As Hans Jonathan played a heroic role, he imagined that he would be set free. His owners, however, launched a famous court case that concluded that he was the property of the Schimmelmanns who, as a result, were entitled to return him to St. Croix

and sell him to a plantation. Hans Jonathan swiftly escaped. Neatly stored in the National Archives of Denmark, the court documents provide a rare window into the world of slavery and debates on human rights. Once I had access to the papers I concluded that I would have enough material for a biography. For two centuries Hans Jonathan’s fate was shrouded in mystery. Eventually it was revealed that soon after the verdict, he had fled to Djúpivogur in East Iceland, where he settled, married local girl Katrín Antoníusdóttir and had two children. He worked in the town’s store and later became a subsistence peasant in the tradition of Bjartur of Summerhouses portrayed in Independent People by Icelandic Nobel Prize author Halldór Laxness. Hans Jonathan’s 1,100 descendants are scattered around Iceland and abroad. A Cult Figure There is a case for considering that Hans Jonathan’s biography, in its various forms, has now passed into the international public domain. After several years of research, endless interviews and repeat visits to the Virgin Islands, Copenhagen and other key sites, I published the biography The Man Who Stole Himself: The Slave Odyssey of Hans Jonathan (The University of Chicago Press, 2016, translated by Anna Yates), also available in Icelandic, Danish and French. Hans Jonathan’s story has also been told in a one-hour documentary by Valdimar Leifsson.

Even more significantly, in 2018 the journal Nature Genetics reported a study by researchers at deCODE genetics in Reykjavík that partially reconstructed Hans Jonathan’s genome. The study was widely presented in international media as a breakthrough in forensic history; indeed, this was the first case of mapping someone’s genome in the absence of physical remains. In hindsight, I have sometimes wondered why my career and writing took this sudden and unexpected turn. I am reminded, however, that my first academic piece, my bachelor dissertation in 1972, had focused on race and blackness. I had assumed at the time that such themes were only marginally relevant in Iceland. For me, the story of the ex-slave Hans Jonathan raised many questions about the relationship between the Danish empire and its satellites and the life of the first black person to settle in Iceland. The Punchline One of the conclusions of my study is that Hans Jonathan was not met with racism; on the contrary he became “one of them,” honest and well-meaning, teaching people navigation and other skills. In the wake of the independence movement, on the other hand, with its emphasis on national heritage and racial purity, “color” arrived on the official agenda with painful consequences for some of Hans Jonathan’s descendants. Some of my friends have pointed out that Hans Jonathan’s story has been so ingrained in my

own life in the course of the last decade or so that he refuses to leave. Recently I had to cancel my visit to the gym and sauna: a weekly treat and a chance to get together with some friends. I told them I couldn’t come because I had to tend to my two young grandsons. One of my friends cynically commented, “I see; I bet they are named Hans and Jonathan!” Previous page, top: From the making of the documentary Hans Jonathan: The Man Who Stole Himself. Actors Georg Leite and Edda Björnsdóttir in the scene where Hans Jonathan proposes to Katrín. Courtesy of Valdimar Leifsson, The Cinema. Previous page, bottom: The Constitution Hill Plantation, 1833, one of the homes of the Schimmelmann family in St. Croix, where Hans Jonathan and his mother sometimes lived. Frederik von Scholten, courtesy of M / S Museet for Søfart, Helsingør, Denmark. Top left: Lúðvík Lúðvíksson (b. 1856), grandson of Hans Jonathan and Katrín Antoníusdóttir. Courtesy of Helga Tómas dóttir. Top right corner: Hans Jonathan’s signature, from the records of the store of Djúpivogur, East Iceland. Courtesy of the National Archives of Iceland, Reykjavík. Top right: Descendants of Hans Jonathan and Katrín Antoníusdóttir gather for a commem oration in 2016, to erect a tombstone in the graveyard by Djúpivogur where Hans Jonathan was buried. Photo by Gísli Pálsson.

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COMPLIMENTS TO THE CHEF A taste of the world’s most rigorous cooking competition from Chef Bjarni Siguróli Jakobsson.

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BY LARISSA KYZER. PHOTOS BY KARL PETERSSON.

2019, Iceland has competed in the Bocuse d’Or 14 times, taken home the bronze medal twice and routinely placed in the top 10.

Known as the Olympics of cooking, the Bocuse d’Or is a culinary marathon that has spent 32 years pitting “the most promising chefs of their generation” against each other. After surviving two qualification rounds— national and then continental—the last 24 chefs standing spend a year designing and refining their own takes on the two tremendously technical challenges they are set, Theme on Plate and Theme on Platter. On the day, they have but five and a half hours to create and plate their dishes in front of a live audience, before serving them to a panel of their most illustrious peers. Iceland’s representative on the judging panel, Icelandair chef Sturla Birgisson, was the country’s first Bocuse d’Or competitor in 1999. Counting

Nothing Short of Perfect “It’s an entirely different standard,” laughs Chef Bjarni Siguróli Jakobsson, Iceland’s 2019 Bocuse d’Or competitor. Having worked in some of Iceland’s best restaurants, Bjarni now operates his own private catering company, Reykjavík Gastronomy. But, according to him, “you can’t even compare” the experience of working in a kitchen—even a fine dining restaurant—with a competition on this level. Luckily, Bjarni’s no stranger to the world of tournament chefing. Indeed, it was the Bocuse d’Or that gave him his first taste, when in 2010 he served as commis, or second chef, to Þráinn Freyr Vigfússon. Bjarni

Previous page, top: Vegetable and shellfish chartreuse: Jerusalem artichoke panada, lovage, and cauliflower filled with scallops; celeriac stuffed with shellfish.

Previous page, bottom: Chef Bjarni Siguróli Jakobsson.

Above: Oven-roasted veal rack, stuffed with sweetbreads and served with a red currant and Icelandic rosemary-infused apple wine and veal jus; baked leek with Icelandic wasabi flowers; crispy potato; yellow beetroot filled with foil gras and apples; mushroom cup filled with ceps, Jerusalem artichoke, and golden enoki.

was then named Iceland’s 2012 Chef of the Year, earned silver in the Nordic Chef of the Year competition in 2013, and was captain of the Icelandic Culinary Team from 2015 to 2017.

treuse whose filling was at least half vegetable and also included a mix of shellfish. “It’s a really technical thing to do,” explains Bjarni, not least in terms of juggling different cook times. “I really had to wrack my brain to figure it out.” In the end, however, he decided not to take “too serious an approach,” simply letting the “flavors, composition, and textures” of his elegant, flower-shaped chartreuse “show the ingredients [Jerusalem artichoke, celeriac, scallops] at their best.”

draws from global influences, bringing them together in a clean and uncomplicated manner. “It’s hard to be simple!” he declares. In stepping away from the local focus of New Nordic cuisine, he capitalizes on Iceland’s international learnings. “I could bring hákarl, sure,” Bjarni jokes, naming Iceland’s infamous fermented shark dish. “But that’s not going to compare. Bocuse d’Or is foie gras, truffles, caviar, Champagne.”

Not Your Grandma’s Chartreuse The Bocuse d’Or’s whole purpose is to destabilize chefs with unexpected challenges. This year’s Theme on a Plate, for instance, was a chartreuse, an old-school French classic that isn’t a familiar dish for most contemporary chefs. In essentials, a chartreuse is a vegetable or protein filling enveloped in a highly decorative, edible wrapper, such as cabbage. (If this sounds simple, consider that multi-Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud spent three days preparing his version for a New Yorker food writer.) Competitors were required to make a char-

In the end, Denmark, Sweden and Norway took home the top three seats in this year’s competition, while Iceland placed 11th. Hákarl vs. Caviar In his dishes—including suckling veal rack stuffed with sweetbreads, served with crispy potato and pomme purée with Icelandic cheese, among other side courses—Bjarni

Bjarni wants to see Iceland celebrate its hybridized approaches to food culture. “We’re a bit different,” he smiles. “That’s exactly why all these people come to visit our country [...] We need to create something that’s unique to us.”

Icelandair Stopover 53

#MYSTOPOVER:

LUNAR LANDSCAPES From Australia to an adventurous honeymoon in Iceland. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY MATTHEW HICKEY (INSTAGRAM.COM/MATTHICKEYPHOTO). We donned our crampons, ice picks and brightly-colored helmets and set off towards the base of the Svínafellsjökull glacial tongue, leaving behind the small village of Kirkjubæjarklaustur. My wife Louise and I had tagged on to the end of a multi-day tour with Intrepid Travel, following the south coast of Iceland along the Ring Road, a more adventurous part of our honeymoon. While others might’ve been satisfied with a more tropical beach getaway, Iceland in winter searching for the northern lights was our ideal romantic destination.

54 Icelandair Stopover

As you arrive it’s no wonder that film and television crews such as in Interstellar and Game of Thrones have used this truly lunar landscape to portray otherworldly places. Nestled in Skaftafell in Vatnajökull National Park, between an array of spectacular mountains, the icy scape of Svínafellsjökull confronted me with its sheer size and awe. It was about as far from sunny Australia as I’d ever felt. As we began our journey onto the glacier, we walked a clear path behind our guide, the terrain beneath making the transition from a layer of volcanic sediment into a gleaming surface of blue ice. With metal spikes crunching as we tiptoed on the ice, we followed in

single line formation, keeping a wary distance from the various drop-offs, and stepping on the already crushed-up ice path where others had trekked before us. The rains from the previous day had washed away much of the volcanic sediment and snow that usually covers the glacier. Instead, as we hiked along this natural marvel, we were met with a polished surface of dancing blue hues. As you hike through the jagged glacial walls, lines and cracks in the thousand-year-old ice form impressive patterns that themselves appear art-like. It’s easy to forget the dangers of glaciers such as these when standing atop. Only a single step aside could potentially have you

Previous page: A guide treks with group. Center: Explorers walk into a crevasse. Bottom: Path to SvĂnafellsjĂśkull. Next page, top: A lone explorer takes in the landscape. Next page, bottom: Gradient of volcanic sediment and glacial ice.

Icelandair Stopover 55

falling hundreds of feet into one of many crevasses. Well below the ice, intertwining glacial rivers flow like ribbons, presenting new dangers for any unlucky person who opts not to follow the precautions laid out by qualified glacial guides. That being said, the dangers of Svínafellsjökull and Iceland’s many other glaciers are far outweighed by their sheer beauty. Towering ice walls and plunging blue crevasses bewitch the mind and will take your breath away. With Iceland being home to a cascade of glaciers, there’s always somewhere for you to get your fix of nature. My trip, shared with newfound friends hiking on top and through the ice, comes highly recommended, as do the guides from Blue Iceland. It’s one of the many experiences that I will always treasure about my dream journey to the land of ice and fire. Hiking on Svínafellsjökull is currently not advised due to landslide danger. There are many other glaciers that can be hiked all year, including Falljökull and Sólheimajökull, but booking a guided tour is recommended. For safety information, visit safetravel.is.

56 Icelandair Stopover

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“ONE OF THE MOST INCREDIBLE DAYS OF MY LIFE”

Pick your tour! HÚSAVÍK ORIGINAL WHALE WATCHING

SILENT WHALE WATCHING

An unforgettable whale watching exploration, recommended by thousands of travellers.

Glide silently alongside the whales on an electric boat. A tranquil whale watching experience.

BEST SELLER

CARBON-NEUTRAL

WHALES AND PUFFINS

WHALES AND SAILS

The perfect combination. A whale watching excursion with a stop by the peaceful Puffin Island.

Get close to the whales on board a traditional Icelandic sailboat and learn the old ways of sailing.

call +354 464 7272 or book your adventure at

HOME OF THE PUFFINS

TRADITIONAL SAILING

www.northsailing.is Icelandair Stopover 57

STOPOVER ICELAND:

OUR TOP PICKS

BY SARAH DEARNE.

With so much you can pack into an Icelandair Stopover, the options can feel overwhelming. So, we keep it simple: Four new themes and four fresh suggestions every issue. Take your pick. w

WILDLIFE:

Animal Exhibitions If you’re curious about Icelandic wildlife, make time for some natural history museums during your stay. In the Westfjords, you can learn about Ice land’s cutest (and only) native land mammal at the Arctic Fox Centre. In addition to a small exhibition and touring services, you can meet the center’s two adorable live foxes, Ingi and Móri, who have been gainfully employed as ambassador animals since being orphaned as cubs. Larger in scale, for obvious reasons, are Iceland’s two excellent whale museums. In Reykjavík, Whales of Iceland has life-size models of all 23 of Iceland’s cetacean species, while in the North, Húsavík Whale Museum has 11 whale skeletons, including a narwhal—a gift from Greenland. Also up North is Sigurgeir’s Bird Museum at Mývatn, featuring a small but lovingly tended collection of birds and eggs. And if you’re in Reykjavík, visit the new Perlan Museum to see a sophisticated replica of the famous Látrabjarg bird cliffs. Also worth a peek are the Museum of Natural History in Neskaupstaður and the Sæheimar Aquarium in Vestmannaeyjar, which often has a live puffin or two on the premises.

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SEASONAL:

Midnight Sun The Icelandic summer gifts you with endless daylight to spend as you please. Although the brightest time of year is around the solstice, June 21, you’ll get mileage out of your eye mask from May to August. Midsummer festivals make prime use of the longest days. In Reykjavík, you can party through the light at Secret Solstice music festival (June 21–24), or compete in the Midnight Sun Run (June 20), which ends with a soak at Iceland’s largest geothermal pool. If you’re in the North, you can stay up for 24 hours of culture at the Akureyri Midsummer Magic festival (June 22–23), tee off at the Arctic Open golf tournament (June 19–22), or take a short flight or ferry to Grímsey island to experience the Solstice Festival within the Arctic Circle (June 21–24). Of course, you don’t need festival tickets to bask in the midnight sun. Make your own fun hiking, golfing, fishing or camping, or book an evening tour to whale-watch, bird-watch or horse-ride into the night. And for the simplest solstice pleasure, take a midnight stroll to see the sun dip just below the horizon—and if you walk for long enough—bounce back up before you return. Continues on page 60.

Top: Camping under the midnight sun at Mývatn. Photo by Jacqueline Macou. Right top: Augmented reality helps recreate the Látrabjarg bird cliffs at Perlan Museum. Photo courtesy of Perlan. Right center: Celebrating the bright nights at Secret Solstice festival. Photo by Tobias Stoffels / Neon Photography. Right bottom: A blue whale skeleton gives a sense of scale at Húsavík Whale Museum. Photo courtesy of the museum.

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ARCHITECTURE:

Churches While it’s hard to miss the iconic Hallgríms kirkja (kirkja means church) in downtown Reykjavík, there are architecturally intriguing chapels around the country. The oldest are the humble turf churches, of which only five remain (a sixth has been constructed using timber from an older church). Built since the adoption of Christianity in A.D. 1000, these Hobbit-like structures made innovative use of Iceland’s limited resources. Some beautiful examples include Hofskirkja in southeast Iceland and Víðimýrarkirkja in the North, both built in the 19th century on ancient ecclesiastical grounds and restored in the 20 th century. By the 19th and 20 th centuries, churches were constructed from hardier materials such as stone, wood and corrugated iron. Among the prettiest are the Bláa Kirkjan (the Blue Church) in the East Fjords and Húsavíkurkirkja in the North. When it comes to modernist churches, you may wonder if a law passed mandating that all new churches must look like spaceships. Prime examples of this futuristic style include Stykkishólmskirkja and Ólafsvíkurkirkja, both on Snæfellsnes peninsula. Slightly less sci-fi is the columned Akureyrarkirkja in North Iceland, which was designed by Guðjón Samúelsson, who also drafted Hallgríms kirkja.

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NATURE:

Mountains Iceland’s landscape is rippled with mountains of all shapes, sizes and colors, calling to be climbed or admired from afar. In the East Fjords, Vestrarhorn and its surrounding peaks are a favorite among photo graphers, but for a lesser-known beauty, make your way to the pyramid-like Búlands tindur, which also offers some wonderful moderate-to-challenging hikes. On the other side of the country, in the Westfjords, you’ll notice that the mountains tend to be tall yet flat on top, characteristic of the basalt from which they are largely formed. If you’re staying around Ísafjörður, try the short but challenging hike up Naustahvilft (“the troll seat”), or embark on easier trails such as Eyrarhlíð to Ísafjörður and Óshlíð to Bolungarvík. There are also some marvelous mountains to explore close to the capital. Esjan, the broad mountain that dominates the Reykjavík skyline, is a popular hiking spot 20 minutes northeast of the city—see if you can spot your hotel from the top. And if you venture southwest along the Reykjanes peninsula, the small and conical Keilir makes for a perfect afternoon climb.

Top left: The jagged peaks of Vestrarhorn tower over the blacks sands of Stokksnes beach. Photo by Annca. Top right: Húsavík Church was built using wood imported from Norway and was consecrated in 1907. Photo by Bernd Hildebrandt. Center right: A rainbow path leads to Seyðisfjörður’s elegant Blue Church, consecrated in 1922. Photo by Mario Liebherr. Bottom right: The mountains of Ísafjörður offer views of the town and fjord. Photo courtesy of Visit Westfjords / westfjords.is.

ísafjörður

akureyri

brjánslækur flatey

egilsstaðir

stykkishólmur

höfn reykjavík

landeyjahöfn vestmannaeyjar

vík

NATURE PARADISE

IN BREIDAFJORDUR AND VESTMANNAEYJAR ICELAND'S LARGEST AND SMALLEST INHABITED ISLANDS.

seatours.is Book online

seatours.is

EVERY TRIP IS AN ADVENTURE

WWW.GEYSIR.IS

STOPOVER DOESN’T MEAN YOU NEED TO STAY PUT visit www.geysir.is for great car rental offers Icelandair Stopover 61

OUR DESTINATIONS:

FINE PHILLY FLAVORS

Cheesesteaks and more in the City of Brotherly Love.

BY CAROLYN BAIN. Philadelphia is one of the USA’s fastestgrowing cities for millennials, so it’s no surprise to find it overflowing with craft breweries, distilleries, coffee roasters and food trucks catering to a cashed-up, coolseeking demographic. But it’s a city steeped in tradition, too, so old-school flavors abound. This is a place that delivers a bumper sandwich, and then some. Cheesesteaks, Naturally Philly obsesses over sandwiches in all their iterations. Cheesesteaks, hoagies, roast pork sandwiches and more are regularly rated and critiqued. The famed cheesesteak garners most of the visitor attention—it’s a long roll that features hot, thinly sliced beef topped with melted cheese and (optional) fried onions. Get the conversation started by asking a local for the best place to try one, and for their opinion on cheese choices, too: American, provolone, Cheez Wiz?

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There are dozens of places to check out a cheesesteak. Try one in its natural habitat at Pat’s King of Steaks, the 24-hour diner that invented the dish back in 1930. Fancy doing some taste-testing? Head across the street from Pat’s to rival Geno’s Steaks. Reading Terminal Market Take the pulse of Philly’s flavor-makers at the big, bountiful Reading Terminal Market, billed as America’s oldest farmers market. It dates from 1893 and is a hive for everything fresh, local and inventive, but also for tried-andtested taste sensations that never go out of style. Build yourself a picnic from local favorites: The roast pork sandwich from DiNic’s is a bonafide star (crowned “Best Sandwich in America” in 2012), and the cannoli from Termini Brothers Bakery inspires sweet accolades. There’s a corner of the market dedicated to the hearty, homespun foods of the so-called Pennsylvania Dutch, where baked goods, soups and pot pies reign.

Israeli Food Michael Solomonov is an Israeli-born chef and local restaurateur, heralded by the prestigious James Beard Foundation for bringing modern Israeli cuisine to the United States. His flagship restaurant is Zahav in Philly’s Old City neighborhood, and critics and diners swoon over the creamy, nutty hummus, served with laffa bread (a flatbread similar to pita) baked in a wood-burning oven. Zahav’s roasted lamb shoulder with pomegranate and chickpeas also sends flavor-seekers into a mild frenzy. Solomonov has a family of eateries sprinkled around town, ranging from Federal Donuts (zeroing in on fried chicken and donuts) to Goldie, a falafel bar serving shawarma-spiced fries and tahini shakes. Ballpark Snacks The baseball season kicks off in March (running until September) and heralds the unofficial start of spring. Citizens Bank Park stadium is home turf of the Phillies team, and has capacity for over 40,000 fans. Conces-

sion stands give the sports-hungry locals plenty of fast-food options to fuel their cheers. Crabfries are crinkle-cut hot potato fries with not a hint of crab, served with a cheese dipping sauce. You can go big on chicken wings, soft pretzels, hot dogs, hoagies and cheesesteaks (of course). For dessert: hot donuts sprinkled with cinnamon sugar. And don’t forget a water ice, a Philly warmweather essential. It’s an Italian-style sorbetlike concoction made from water, sugar and fruit (or syrup), and available in flavors like mango, blue raspberry and pink lemonade. Parks on Tap Want to partake in some feel-good summer vibes? How about Parks on Tap, a brilliant “traveling beer garden” initiative that gives back to the community. Seasonal pop-up beer gardens arrive in neighborhood parks all across town, generally from late April to late September. Fairy lights and hammocks are strung; families, pets, and all-comers are welcomed.

Locally brewed beer is served (a rotating selection from hometown favorites including Yards and Yuengling) alongside wine and well-priced picnic-friendly food, and there are often alfresco treats such as live music, yoga classes, and mini golf. Icelandair flies to Philadelphia four to five times a week from late May to October. Traveling from Europe, you have the opportunity to add a Stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare.

Previous page: Swann Memorial Fountain with City Hall in the background. Photo by Shutterstock. Top left: Cheesesteak at Pat’s King of Steaks. Photo by Kyle Huff. Top right: Parks on Tap. Photo by Kyle Huff. Bottom left: Citizens Bank Park. Photo by Gao Junyi. Bottom right: Lamb shoulder at Zahav. Photo by Alexandra Hawkins.

Icelandair Stopover 63

OUR DESTINATIONS:

ANCHORAGE’S HIDDEN HOTSPOTS One of the most wild and intriguing cities in the US, Anchorage has plenty to offer visitors. Here are 10 of the best things to do in Alaska’s largest city.

BY JONATHAN THOMPSON. PHOTOS COURTESY OF VISIT ALASKA. Hike Flattop Mountain Outside is where Anchorage shines. If you want to take a quick hike to amazing views, head straight for Flattop Mountain. Alaska’s most-climbed peak, it’s only 20 minutes from downtown, but boasts incredible views from an easily-achievable summit. Go Flightseeing One of the best ways to see Anchorage is from the sky—on one of the ever-popular floatplane tours. An excellent means to get your city bearings, it’s also a fantastic opportunity to soar over glaciers and outlying islands, as well as to spot local wildlife, from minke whales to brown bears. Capture the Northern Lights Anchorage’s night skies are frequently illuminated by the aurora borealis, particularly between September and April. Local company Alaska Photo Treks will not only take you out to enjoy them from the best local vantage points, they’ll also help you achieve the notoriously difficult feat of capturing them on camera.

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Explore the Foodie Last Frontier Anchorage’s restaurant scene is justifiably famous for its delicious seafood (do not leave without ordering king crab at least once!), but there are a few curveballs to catch too, from turkey gizzards to reindeer sausages. Explore the quirkiest bites at the Anchorage Market and Festival each weekend, or make a reservation at South Restaurant and Coffeehouse on Old Seward Highway, renowned for its famously left-field menu. Get to Know Alaska’s Native People Discover the indigenous people of the Last Frontier at the Alaska Native Heritage Center, a fascinating museum and performance hall dedicated to preserving the traditions and culture of the tribes who called this place home centuries before the city arrived. Bike the Coastal Trail The crown jewel of Anchorage’s impressive paved trail system, the 11-mile (18-km) Tony Knowles Coastal Trail (named for the former Alaska governor) boasts breathtaking views of the rugged coastline as it rolls in and out of lush birch forests. Bike rentals are both widely available and inexpensive across downtown (try Pablo’s on L Street), or join an organized bike tour with Alaska Trail Guides.

Cast Yourself as an Urban Angler Plenty of people come to Alaska to fish, but few realize the state’s most popular fishery is in the heart of downtown Anchorage. Salmon-swamped Ship Creek is teeming with king and silver salmon each summer—and angling here is actively encouraged. Head to the nearby Bait Shack for supplies, then pick a nice spot and find yourself reeling. Toast Sunset From the Crow’s Nest Situated on the 20 th floor of the outstanding Hotel Captain Cook, the Crow’s Nest is a local favorite when it comes to sipping sundowners. The service is excellent, as are the views of the city, the ocean and the mountains beyond. The bar itself is elevated above the surrounding restaurant, meaning you get an unobstructed view, however focused you are. Dive Into Alaska’s Largest Museum The modern, interactive and recently-expanded Anchorage Museum is the biggest and best of its kind in the entire state. Dedicated to telling the multilayered story of Alaska from every conceivable angle, it’s also an excellent primer for any onward journeys beyond the city.

Ski Alyeska Just 50 minutes outside Anchorage, the legendary ski resort of Alyeska makes for an outstanding day trip. The drive there—skirting the Turnagain Arm along the Seward Highway, and AllAmerican Road and Scenic Byway—is one of the most beautiful stretches of road in the US, and the skiing when you get there is equally breathtaking. For those who want to truly embrace the perfect emptiness of Alaska’s Western Chugach Mountains, there are also extensive heli-skiing options to pick from. For more information on Anchorage’s wild adventures and urban delights, visit anchorage.net.

Previous page: Anglers cast for salmon in Ship Creek with downtown Anchorage in the background. Photo by Ken Graham Photography. Top left: Downhill skiers at Alyeska Resort have a view of Chugach Mountains and Turnagain Arm from the slopes. Photo by Jack Bonney. Top right: King crab plated at Sushi Garden. Photo by JodyO.Photos. Bottom left: Floatplanes docked at Lake Hood in Anchorage. The lake is the busiest seaplane base in the world, with more than 500 takeoffs and landings daily during busy summer months. Photo by Nicole Geils. Bottom right: A young bull moose browses near wildflowers in Anchorage. Photo by Wayde Carroll Photography.

Icelandair flies to Anchorage May through September. Traveling from Europe, you have the opportunity to add a Stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare.

Icelandair Stopover 65

OUR DESTINATIONS:

DUTCH DELIGHTS A trip to the Netherlands might see you savoring cheese and getting up close to the graceful and mesmerizing windmills. Or you could meander around one of the many fine museums. Here are a few artsy destinations crammed with culture, color and charm. BY MICA ALLAN. The Rijks Museum A grand venue with 80 galleries and 8,000 artifacts, The Rijks Museum in Amsterdam is a paradise for museum lovers who want an immersive experience. Due to the museum’s sheer size, we recommend you plan ahead and select what you’d like to see. Famous pieces include three doll houses from 1676, complete with miniature fixtures in glass, silver and china; Jan Asselijn’s painting The Threatened Swan, which was the very first acquisition of the Nationale Kunstgalerij (the Rijksmuseum’s predecessor); as well as Rembrandt’s imposing The Night Watch. In amongst all the lavish art there are also other treats to indulge in. The main café, housed in a vast atrium within the museum, serves wholesome soups, delicious cheeseboards and sumptuous cakes. And for those with more of an appetite, the museum has its own Michelin-starred restaurant.

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After all the art and fine food, the museum’s gardens with their sculptures, water features and flowerbeds are perfect for a leisurely stroll. Foam Foam, or to use its full Sunday name, Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam, is set in the gorgeous canal district of Amsterdam on the Keizersgracht canal. Since opening its doors in 2001, this museum of photography has hosted four large exhibitions and a variety of smaller ones at any given time. The museum showcases a range of photographic genres such as art, fashion, film, portrait, street, glamour as well as documentary. Exhibitions focus on the work of established artists, and at Foam Next Door (literally an adjoining gallery), you can see the work of up-and-coming international artists and enjoy a free guided tour in Dutch or English. After taking in a host of exhibitions, it’s also nice to know that there’s a cozy café in the basement for a caffeine fix and a sweet treat. Icelandair flies to Amsterdam daily, year-round. Traveling from North America, you have the opportunity to add a Stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare.

Previous page: There are over 1,000 windmills in the Netherlands. They are used for drainage, grinding grain, as sawmills, as museums, or serve other purposes. Photo by Shutterstock. Above: The colorful houses along one of the canals of Amsterdam. Photo by Shutterstock. Opposite page, bottom: Calypso Fall in Rotterdam. Photo by Chris Bonis.

Mothership Artists Monique Benthin and Rick Messe maker of art collective Mothership, based in Rotterdam, were so inspired by Icelandic nature that they created an urban waterfall with the stunning backdrop of Iceland’s Seljalandsfoss. Calypso Fall, as the installation is called, is captured on a simple concrete wall near the residential apartment block Calypso Towers at Mauritsplaats in the middle of the city, close to the Rotterdam central station. You can enjoy this spectacle with a short trip from central Amsterdam (approximately 45 minutes by train). So, although you’re firmly in mainland Europe you can enjoy a little bit of Icelandic nature. Mothership is a well-known art collective responsible for over 500 art projects in the Netherlands and across the globe. It makes unique art that is highly visual. Icelandair took part in sponsoring Calypso Fall.

Icelandair Stopover 67

A Golden Circle Adventure The Icelandic animals from Treasure Iceland are best buddies. One of the things they love most is traveling to new places around the country. This time, Freyja the horse takes the gang to her home region, South Iceland.

Comic by Ásta Andrésdóttir and Alfreð I. A. Pétursson. Characters created by KIDZinflight.

The group of friends was bursting with excitement. Today, they were going to explore the natural wonders along the Golden Circle route. WE'LL BE CAMPING AT ÞINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK, BUT FIRST WE'LL STOP BY THE GREAT GEYSIR. IT‛S GOING TO AMAZE YOU, I'M SURE!

GEYSIR MEANS GUSHER… WHY IS THAT? YOU'RE ABOUT TO FIND OUT!

MAYBE I SHOULD HAVE BROUGHT MY RAINCOAT

AT LEAST NOW WE KNOW WHY IT'S CALLED GUSHER!

THIS IS STROKKUR. IT ERUPTS EVERY 10 MINUTES BECAUSE OF NEARBY VOLCANOES THAT HEAT GLACIAL WATER, WHICH THEN ESCAPES THROUGH HOLES IN THE GROUND. THE GREAT GEYSIR HAS NOT BEEN ACTIVE FOR 100 YEARS. ITS ERUPTIONS REACHED AS HIGH AS 230 FEET, THE SIZE OF HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA —ICELAND'S TALLEST CHURCH!

THE ICELANDIC HORSE HAS REMAINED PUREBRED SINCE THE VIKING AGE. ALSO, WE ARE ONE OF VERY FEW EXISTING BREEDS THAT “TÖLT,” WHICH IS A SPED-UP VERSION OF WALKING. WHAT MAKES US UNIQUE IS THAT WE COMPETE IN FIVE DIFFERENT GAITS.

Þingvellir Finally, the gang arrived in Þingvellir and Freyja began to explain its significance. DEERRIN-DEE….

THE WORLD'S OLDEST RUNNING PARLIAMENT WAS FOUNDED HERE IN 930 AD, AND THE LANDSCAPE IS ALSO SPECIAL. THE EARTH'S CRUST IS MADE FROM GIANT PLATES THAT PART AND COLLIDE. ICELAND IS ON SUCH BOUNDARIES, AN UNDERWATER MOUNTAIN RANGE. HERE AND IN AFRICA, IT RISES ABOVE SEA LEVEL, SO WE CAN SEE THE EARTH'S CRACKS WITHOUT GETTING WET!

Mosi turned around and saw a tiny bird appear. It was a golden plover.

OUR ARRIVAL SHOWS THAT SPRING HAS FINALLY ARRIVED, AND THEREFORE WE HOLD A SPECIAL PLACE IN ICELANDERS' HEARTS.

YES PLEASE! WHAT ARE WE GOING TO CELEBRATE?

SPRING HAS ARRIVED!

HI, I'M LÓA. DID SOMEONE SAY AFRICA? I'VE TRAVELED FROM THERE FOR THE SUMMER. IN FACT, I WAS AMONG THE FIRST OF US TO BE SPOTTED AND GOT MY PICTURE IN THE PAPER. IT WAS ALL VERY EXCITING!

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WON'T YOU JOIN US FOR A PICNIC? WE ARE GOING TO CELEBRATE!

If you want to play with the animals of Treasure Iceland, check out our on-board kids’ material. If you didn’t get it already, just ask the friendly flight attendant.

FLYER’S HUB Icelandair’s route network connects more than 40 destinations on both sides of the Atlantic, from the airline’s hub at Keflavík International Airport.

ANCHORAGE

HELSINKI VANCOUVER SEATTLE

STOCKHOLM EDMONTON

OSLO

PORTLAND

SAN FRANCISCO ICELAND

BERGEN COPENHAGEN BILLUND BERLIN HAMBURG DUSSELDORF FRANKFURT AMSTERDAM MUNICH GLASGOW BRUSSELS ZURICH MANCHESTER MILAN LONDON DUBLIN PARIS GENEVA HEATHROW & GATWICK

DENVER MINNEAPOLIS / ST. PAUL

MADRID CHICAGO KANSAS CITY

TORONTO CLEVELAND

MONTREAL

BOSTON WASHINGTON D.C. PHILADELPHIA NEW YORK

HALIFAX

JFK & NEWARK

TAMPA

ORLANDO

Contents: 70 Saga Shop Kitchen: On-Board Menu 71 Icelandair Travel Experience 74 Icelandair @Work: Novelties and News 76 In-Flight Entertainment

82 Services on Board 80 Our Fleet: Aircraft Types and Names 84 Devices and Wi-Fi 86 Safety First 88 Guide to US Customs Form

IS FLYING MAKING YOU FAMISHED?

SAGA SHOP KITCHEN No problem. Our new Economy menu has never been more appetizing and varied. Just fish it out of the seat pocket in front of you and order what your heart desires.

VEGAN

GLUTEN FREE

Gourmet falafel salad Falafel, cherry tomatoes, chickpeas, fresh salad leaves, red cabbage, sweet potatoes, roasted pumpkin seeds and a hummus dressing. Turkey pretzel triangle Honey-roasted turkey, barbecue mayonnaise, fresh salad and red bell peppers in a freshly baked crispy butter pretzel triangle.

Travel Experience

Tapas snack box Serrano ham, mini fuet, grissini, bruschetta dip and matured Iberico cheese. Tapas snack box + olives + wine.

WARM

VEGETARIAN

Pizza Margherita Pizza with tomatoes and mozzarella cheese, served with one of the world’s best olive oils straight from Italy. Choose between basil or chili flavor. Product not available when departing from YVR

We welcome your feedback on the dining experience on board. Please drop us a line at kitchen@icelandair.is with any comments. Verði þér að góðu! Bon appétit!

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DISCOVERING ICELAND IN THE SKY Icelandair’s travel experience introduces you to our special country. Whether you’re flying with us today en route to or from Iceland, or between Europe and North America with a short airport stopover, we’d like you to feel as if you’ve learned a little bit about our country during the flight. We’re very proud of our Icelandic heritage and culture and hope we’re able to share that enthusiasm with you. Take a look around you now. You should spot several little glimpses of Iceland, but if you want to catch them all, here’s our cheat sheet: The music as you boarded was composed and performed by Icelandic artists. Like it? It’s from our Icelandair Spotify playlist. You can check out the playlist in our in-flight entertainment system. Our menu selection features Icelandic ingredients and snacks like hjónabandssæla (an oat-and-jam square, whose name translates as “happy marriage”) and awardwinning lager.

We are very proud of our ancient language. You’ll see some samples of Icelandic, which is a North Germanic language, throughout the cabin. Some headrests show Icelandic translations of some common phrases in English, while pillow covers show a popular traditional lullaby both in Icelandic and in translation. The paper cups list the different words used in Icelandic for cups, and the napkins tell you about Iceland’s first settlers. Our in-flight entertainment system features numerous Icelandic films, documentaries and television programs, as well as an exclusive documentary called Unique Iceland, which will introduce you to some of the country’s highlights for visitors. We’re so proud of our volcanoes, glaciers and other natural wonders, that we’ve even named our aircraft after them. After all, Iceland is famous for its spectacular landscapes. Each one bears the moniker of an Icelandic attraction, including the famously

unpronounceable Eyjafjallajökull volcano— which actually doubles as a glacier; Vatna jökull, Europe’s largest glacier; Látrabjarg, Europe’s largest bird cliff; and now also Þingvellir, the rift valley where our parliament was founded in A.D. 930. At the risk of being immodest, we think our water is the best tasting water in the world. Try it for yourself on this flight. We serve refreshing Icelandic Glacial water throughout the trip. On some lucky aircraft you’ll find mood lighting, like on Vatnajökull: The blue LED lighting in the cabin creates the illusion of being inside an ice cave, while on Hekla Aurora it feels as if you’re watching the northern lights dancing in the Icelandic winter sky. We hope you enjoy your flight with us.

Icelandair Stopover 71

WE MAKE A POINT OF REWARDING CUSTOMERS FOR LOYALTY Did you know that members of Icelandair Saga Club earn Saga Points for all Icelandair flights, for their purchases on board and with our partners around the world? These little points pack a lot of punch. 72 Icelandair IcelandairStopover Stopover

Joining is easyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;you can use our on-board Wi-Fi on your mobile device or computer and join right now. It is free to visit icelandair.com.

+ icelandair.com

By joining Icelandair Saga Club you can: Book flights with Saga Points partly or for the whole airfare

Buy products and refreshments on board with your Points

Acquire Saga Silver or Saga Gold status with increased benefits by flying regularly with Icelandair

Earn Saga Points through Booking.com and Rentalcars.com

Upgrade with Points and enjoy your next flight in a better seat

Use your Saga Points at Hotels.com

Icelandair Stopover 73

NEWS:

ICELANDAIR @WORK With spring—the most delightful of seasons—we welcome new people, new parties, new perks and new possibilities. COMPILED BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR.

Wild New Amenity Kits In April, Icelandair launches its new Dýralíf amenity kit collection, which pays tribute to Iceland’s wildlife. Icelandair has collaborated with design company WESSCO and skincare company Hannes Dóttir to produce a collection that draws inspiration from animals woven into the nation’s folklore. Each kit is made from eco-friendly and sustainable materials (including canvas, vegan leather, recycled PET felt, and microsuede) and are complimentary for Saga Premium passengers on all flights between Keflavík and North America. Launching in 2019 are kits inspired by the puffin and Arctic fox; in 2020, the Icelandic horse and raven step into the spotlight. The kits are also available for purchase on the Saga Shop website: sagashop.is.

Ready for Some Rhineland Roaming?

New Captain in the Cockpit

Icelandair launched direct flights between Keflavík International Airport and Dusseldorf in April. The city is the airline’s fifth destination in Germany in addition to Berlin, Hamburg, Munich and Frankfurt. A great mix of business-meets-pleasure, Dusseldorf is prosperous and creative, fashion-forward and up for a party. Art is embraced, beer is celebrated, and riverside rambles have rarely looked so appealing. Dusseldorf is the perfect base for Rhineland roaming, Carnival capers and super-charged shopping. With the new route, Icelandair aims to strengthen its transatlantic service, while opening up new opportunities for Germans traveling to Iceland and vice versa. Icelandair flies to Dusseldorf three to four times a week.

Bogi Nils Bogason was appointed CEO of Icelandair Group— Icelandair’s parent company—late last year, after having served as interim president and CEO since August. There were many qualified applicants, but in the end, Bogi was deemed best suited for the job. “He knows the company, has a clear vision and is well suited to lead it through new times,” remarks Úlfar Steindórsson, Chairman of the Board of Directors. Bogi says that he is honored to have been chosen, and while being proud of the company’s past, “The future is both exciting and challenging … which calls for a clear vision and effective operations. Icelandair Group has strong pillars that we will build on to forge ahead to success.”

74 Icelandair Stopover

Events of Note The 27th annual Icelandair Mid-Atlantic Tradeshow took place in Iceland from January 31 to February 3. The largest trade show in Iceland, it’s a key event in Icelandic tourism held to connect buyers and sellers, domestic and foreign. This year, there were approximately 700 participants from 21 countries and more than 100 Icelandic companies from all over the country. A fixed event on the Reykjavík cultural calendar, Food & Fun was held to much fanfare from February 27 to March 3. The festival features guest chefs dishing up their culinary creations at some of the capital’s most celebrated restaurants, with a focus on Icelandic ingredients. Icelandair has been a proud sponsor since the festival’s establishment in 2002.

Icelandair also has a history of supporting musical talent; the 2019 edition of Músík tilraunir (Icelandic Music Experiments) was held between March 30 and April 6. The battle-of-the-bands-style competition shines a spotlight on young musicians and has birthed some of the country’s best musical exports—including Of Monsters and Men. Meanwhile, Icelandair has started warming up for Iceland Airwaves. The country’s biggest music festival will take place November 6–9, 2019, and festival packages including flights are on sale now: icelandair.com/vacations/ city-breaks/iceland-airwaves. Hotel packages are also available. The first artists have been announced; among them Iceland’s infamous Eurovision entry, bondage scream band Hatari.

New Connections, New Possibilities

Our Buddies Are Back

Beginning in May 2019, the new North American flight bank, available from Boston, Chicago, Minneapolis-St. Paul, New York City, Toronto and Washington D.C., will arrive in Iceland at approximately 9:30 am, with onwards connections to Europe departing at 10:30 am to Amsterdam, Berlin, Brussels, Copenhagen, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Helsinki, Munich, Oslo, Paris, Stockholm and Zurich. Returning flights from Europe arrive in Iceland at approximately 6:30 pm, in time for connecting flights to North America departing around 8:00 pm. The new bank will operate outside peak hours at Keflavík International Airport, giving passengers additional comfort, flexibility and greater choice of connections.

Searching for the perfect place to soak in geothermal waters? Or the coziest coffee spot in the capital? Your answer is just a quick phone call away. In April, our Buddy Hotline is here to offer our passengers trusty local travel advice straight from the source. Our Buddies are carefully selected Icelandair employees and locals in the know when it comes to the most exciting and essential things to see, do, experience and explore during your stay in Iceland. So, go ahead, make that call and make the most of your trip. They look forward to hearing from you! For more information, visit icelandair.com/buddyhotline.

Icelandair Stopover 75

OUR IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Dear passenger, On this flight you have access to a personal in-flight entertainment system, and these pages offer a sneak peek into our selection. Since we always aim to offer interesting and relevant material on board our flights, we update our selection regularly. Have a browse through the content on the screen in front of you to see everything we offer this time around.

NEW

The selection is quite varied, and we try to offer the latest Hollywood blockbusters of the season. We’ve also dedicated a category to All-Time Classics, where some of the carefully selected films are available for a whole year, allowing you to revisit some of your favorites each time you fly with us.

AUDIO BOOKS

Language: Icelandic and / or English

Líf Biography I 25:02 hr.

Ætíðarþjófurinn Children I 5:27 min.

Ferðin Fiction I 7:45 hr.

Krýsuvík Crime I 18:14 hr.

Tryggð / The Deposit I When Gísella decides to rent out bedrooms in her lavish Reykjavík home to two immigrant women, she doesn’t realize just how much she will need to compromise. An arrangement that begins well soon develops into Gísella’s worst nightmare as she loses control of her home and her sanity. I 89 min.

TV PROGRAMS

Language: English (with Icelandic subtitles)

The Handmaid’s Tale s2 e1–6 I R I Drama, Sci-Fi I 60 min.

2 Broke Girls s6 e5–8 I PG-13 I Comedy, Romance I 22 min.

Fresh Off the Boat s3 e5–8 I PG I Action, Drama I 22 min.

The Big Bang Theory s10 e5–8 I PG-13 I Comedy I 22 min.

Bohemian Rhapsody PG 13 I Biography, Drama, Music I 134 min.

The Favourite R I Biography, Comedy I 118 min.

HOLLYWOOD BLOCKBUSTERS Language: English (with Icelandic subtitles)

A Star Is Born R I Drama, Music, Romance I 136 min.

76 Icelandair Stopover

Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald PG 13 I Action, Adventure I 134 min.

SHORTS AND DOCS

RECOMMENDED WHEN VISITING ICELAND

Language: English / Icelandic (with English subtitles)

’T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

Did you forget your headphones? We sell quality headphones that you can use on this flight and anywhere else.

Out of Thin Air G I Documentary I 84 min.

IC CUISINE

nt to do the tried and tested, in is your spot. This modestestaurant serves excellently resh fish and meat. They also ne selection of cheeses and d marinated delicacies.

TORFAN

past few years, Iceland’s scene has taken huge leaps With more selection than ore, it should be easy to staurant somewhere in the hat tickles your fancy.

690 Vopnafjörður G I Documentary I 57 min.

Unique Iceland I A holiday destination of extremes. An entertaining and informative series about Iceland, both city and country, so you can feel prepared for your Stopover.

Trúnó / Off the Record G I s1 e1–4 s2 e1–4 I Documentary I 30 min.

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC SHORT FILM

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

Tvíliðaleikur / Playing With Balls R I Short Film I 9 min.

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

DINING

GLÓ

ESSENSIA

AIN

OSTABÚÐIN

BJÓRGARÐURINN

N HJÖRTU

IKHÚSIÐ

Amazing Iceland G I Documentary 47 min.

OUR FAVOURITE URANTS IN REYKJAVÍK

ICELANDIC TV PROGRAMS

ICELANDIC FILMS

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

'T M

I S S OU

ICELANDIC MUSIC!

DON'T MISS OUT ON T HE

ICELANDIC MOVIE

'T M I S ON THIS

ICELANDIC TV SERIES

ICELANDIC MOVIE

ON ON

ICELANDIC MOVIE

Svanurinn / The Swan PG I Drama I 92 min.

'T M I S ON THIS

ICELANDIC MOVIE

I S S OU

FOR YOUR ENJOYMENT WE'VE SELECTED THE BEST OF

I S S OU

DON'T MISS OUT ON T HE

'T M

ICELANDIC MUSIC!

ICELANDIC MOVIE

Tryggð / The Deposit PG I Drama I 89 min.

'T M I S ON THIS

ICELANDIC MOVIE

I S S OU

ICELANDIC MOVIE N

'T M

FOR YOUR ENJOYMENT WE'VE SELECTED THE BEST OF

ICELANDIC MOVIE

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

ou with your search for the are in Iceland, we’ve compiled escription of some noteworthy n the Dining Advisor brochure at pocket in front of you.

ICELANDIC TV SERIES

Stella Blómkvist R I e1–6 I Drama, Detective I 45 min.

Kokkaflakk / Chefs Abroad G I s1 e1–5 I Documentary, Food I 30 min.

Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles s2 e1–2 I PG I Adventure, Action I 30 min.

Victorious s2 e1–2 I PG I Comedy, Drama, Family I 30 min.

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMS

Language: Icelandic / English

Paw Patrol s1 e5–7 I G I Adventure, Action, Animation I 30 min.

Scooby-Doo Mystery Incorporated s1 e1–2 I PG-13 I Animation I 30 min.

Please note that you have many more audio books, films and TV programs to choose from on the in-flight entertainment system. The films and TV programs listed here are only a small selection. Ratings are provided according to the US system but may vary from country to country.

Icelandair Stopover 77

CLASSES OF SERVICE Icelandair offers a range of on-board services available to all passengers. We are the first European airline to offer gate-to-gate Wi-Fi, which means that you can stay online from the moment you board until you leave the aircraft. For our youngest flyers, we have a selection of children’s entertainment and games on the in-flight entertainment system. Children receive a meal and juice and are provided with headphones and an activity bag. Passengers can check in quickly and easily with our online check-in service. You can use your smart device to check in even faster. It is possible to check in 36 hours before departure to Europe and Canada, and 24 hours before departure to North America.

Icelandair caters to a range of tastes and budgets with a selection of five fare classes and amenities for tailor-made travel. Economy Light offers quality at a reduced price and includes hand luggage only, ideal for short-haul trips. Economy Standard includes hand luggage and one checked-in bag, and Economy Flex additionally includes priority boarding, free Wi-Fi, and the flexibility to change or cancel your fare. For a pampering experience in an exclusive, quiet cabin at the front of the aircraft, choose Saga Premium. With four-abreast wide seating and plenty of legroom, you’ll have ample space to work or simply stretch out and rest up for your destination.

ECONOMY LIGHT

ECONOMY STANDARD

ECONOMY FLEX

SAGA PREMIUM

SAGA PREMIUM FLEX

Priority check-in

Yes, where applicable

Lounge access

Yes, where applicable

Priority boarding

Yes, where applicable

Seating 737, 757

3-3

2-2

Seating 767

2-3-2

2-1-2

Luggage allowance

No checked luggage

1x50 lb (23 kg)

2x70 lb (32 kg)

Carry-on luggage

1x22 lb (10 kg)

2x22 lb (10 kg)

Legroom

31–32" / 79–81 cm

40" / 101 cm

In-flight entertainment

Yes

Wi-Fi

For a small fee

Included for 2 devices

Headphones

For sale

Yes, noise-canceling

Blankets and pillows

Upon request

Yes

Universal electric outlet

Yes

USB port

Yes

Non-alcoholic beverages

Included

Alcoholic beverages

For sale

Included

Meals

For sale

Included, special menu

Amenity kit

On N-American routes

Hot towels

Yes

Pre-flight drink

On N-American routes

Stopover

For up to 3 nights

For up to 7 nights

Unlimited

Change fees

$300 Fare difference may apply*

$150 Fare difference may apply*

None, but fare difference is applicable

From $150 Fare difference may apply*

None, but fare difference is applicable**

Refundability

Non-refundable

Refundable

Non-refundable

Refundable

Combinability between classes

Combines solely with Economy Light

Combines with Saga Premium

Combines with Saga Premium Flex

Combines with Economy Standard

Combines with Economy Flex

Saga Points earned

50%

100%

150%

200%

300%

*Subject to currency changes

78 Icelandair Stopover

**Within 48 hours of flight time, one free change to 24hr before / after original departure time. Valid on FI flights only.

BRING YOUR COSTCO CARD WITH YOU TO ICELAND! Costco Iceland opened in May 2017. Just like other Costco warehouses, Costco Iceland offers one of the largest and most exclusive product category selections to be found under one roof. Categories include groceries, confectionery, appliances, television and audio equipment, automotive supplies, tires, toys, hardware, sporting goods, jewellery, watches, cameras, books, housewares, apparel, health and beauty aids, furniture, office supplies and office equipment. The warehouse also has a self-service gas station.

Kauptun 3, 210 Gardabaer WAREHOUSE OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 10am to 9pm Saturday: 9:30am to 8pm Sunday: 10am to 6pm

Phone: +354 532 5555

Email: costco@costco.is

GAS STATION OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 7am to 10pm Saturday: 7am to 9.30pm Sunday: 7am to 7pm

PHARMACY OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 11am to 7pm Saturday: 10am to 6pm Sunday: 10am to 4pm

ICELANDAIR FLEET n n n n n n n n

Number of passenger seats: 262 Seating arrangement: 2-3-2 in Economy, 2-1-2 in Saga Premium Length: 180 ft 3 in / 54.9 m Wingspan: 166 ft 11 in / 50.9 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.80 / 461 kn / 531 mph / 854 km/h Maximum range: 5,988 NM / 6,890 mi / 11,090 km Maximum takeoff weight: 412,000 lb / 186,900 kg Engines: 2 x General Electric CF6-80C2B6F

BOEING 767-300

n n n n n n n n

Number of passenger seats: 225 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy, 2-2 in Saga Premium Length: 178 ft 7 in / 54.5 m Wingspan: 134 ft 7 in / 41.0 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.80 / 461 kn / 531 mph / 854 km/h Maximum range: 3,200 NM / 3,682 mi / 5,926 km Maximum takeoff weight: 273,000 lb / 123,800 kg Engines: 2 x Rolls-Royce RB211-535E4-B

BOEING 757-300 n n n n n n n n

BOEING 757-200

n n n n n n n n

Number of passenger seats: 183 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy, 2-2 in Saga Premium Length: 155 ft 3 in / 47.3 m Wingspan: 134 ft 7 in / 41.0 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.80 / 461 kn / 531 mph / 854 km/h Maximum range: 3,915 NM / 4,505 mi / 7,250 km Maximum takeoff weight: 250,000 lb / 113,400 kg Engines: 2 x Rolls-Royce RB211-535E4 Maximum range based on full passenger load

Passenger seats: 178 Seating arrangement: 3-3 Economy, 2-2 Saga Premium Length: 138 ft 4 in / 42.1 m Wingspan: 117 ft 10 in / 35.9 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.79 / 453 kn / 521 mph / 839 km/h Maximum range: 3,515 NM / 4,045 mi / 6,510 km Maximum takeoff weight: 194,700lb / 88,314 kg Engines: 2 x CFM International LEAP-1B

BOEING 737 MAX 9*

n n n n n n n n

Number of passenger seats: 160 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy, 2-2 in Saga Premium Length: 129 ft 6 in / 39.5 m Wingspan: 117 ft 10 in / 35.9 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.79 / 453 kn / 521 mph / 839 km/h Maximum range: 3,515 NM / 4,045 mi / 6,510 km Maximum takeoff weight: 181,200 lb / 82,200 kg Engines: 2 x CFM International LEAP-1B

BOEING 737 MAX 8* *Temporarily suspended from operations at the time of publishing.

80 Icelandair Stopover

GLACIAL WONDERS Each of Icelandair’s aircraft is named after a magnificent natural phenomenon. For this issue, we have chosen to highlight three aircraft that represent the glacial wonders of Iceland: Vatnajökull, Snæfellsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull. A remarkable 10% of Iceland is covered by glaciers, including Europe’s largest glacier (Vatnajökull). Did you know that the white in the Icelandic flag pays tribute to these glacial marvels?

VATNAJÖKULL I TF-FIR I VAT-na-yuh-kutl I Europe’s largest glacier, it covers 8% of Iceland’s surface. Six volcanoes lie underneath it, including Bárðarbunga, which caused the Holuhraun eruption in 2014–2015.

EYJAFJALLAJÖKULL I TF-FII I AY-ya-fyat-la-yeu-kutl I With a name that’s hard to forget and impossible to pronounce, in 2010, South Iceland’s Eyjafjallajökull erupted, causing quite the chaos across the globe. It is in fact an ice cap covering a caldera of a volcano.

SNÆFELLSJÖKULL I TF-ISD I SNEYE-fetls-yuh-kutl I Located in West Iceland, it contains an extinct stratovolcano under its surface. It’s considered a place of paranormal activity and, according to literary legends, its top is the entrance to the center of the Earth.

Read more about our aircraft and their names at icelandair.com/about/our-fleet.

767-300

Eldgjá TF-ISP Gullborg TF-ISW Hlöðufell TF-ISO Svörtuborgir TF-ISN

757-300

Hengill TF-FIX Þingvellir TF-ISX

757-200

Bláfjall TF-FIK Dyngjufjöll TF-ISS Eldborg TF-FIN Eldfell TF-ISK Eyjafjallajökull TF-FII Grábrók TF-ISV Grímsvötn TF-FIS Hekla Aurora TF-FIU Helgafell TF-FIT Herðubreið TF-FIA Katla TF-FIV

Keilir TF-ISJ Ketildyngja TF-ISR Krafla TF-FIO Laki TF-ISF Magni TF-FIC Öræfajökull TF-ISL Skjaldbreiður TF-LLX Snæfell TF-FIP Snæfellsjökull TF-ISD Surtsey TF-FIJ Torfajökull TF-ISY Vatnajökull TF-FIR

MAX 9

Hvítserkur TF-ICA* Langjökull TF-ICB* Kirkjufell TF-ICC*

MAX 8

Dyrhólaey TF-ICU Jökulsárlón TF-ICE Látrabjarg TF-ICY Mývatn TF-ICN* Búlandstindur TF-ICO* Landmannalaugar TF-ICP* *Aircraft joining the fleet in 2019.

Icelandair Stopover 81

DO YOU FLY REGULARLY WITH ICELANDAIR? Our frequent flyer program, Icelandair Saga Club, has multiple benefits for all members as well as special offers and benefits for our most frequent flyers who have acquired Saga Silver and Saga Gold status.

Saga Gold and Saga Silver benefits:

Members can earn from 850 to 7,200 Tier Credits for each leg with Icelandair and need 40,000 Tier Credits to become a Saga Silver member and 80,000 Tier Credits to become a Saga Gold member.

SAGA SILVER

SAGA GOLD

One upgrade a year*

Upgrade every time you fly*

Saga Premium check-in

Lounge access

Excess baggage

Spouse Card available

Complimentary Spouse Card

Limousine service

Priority on waiting lists

Parking at KeflavĂk Airport

Complimentary Wi-Fi on board

Icelandair Golfers membership

Fast track through security

* To the next cabin when space is available.

82 Icelandair Stopover

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More than 90 different companies Restaurants • Bars • Cafés Entertainment • Shopping 30 %

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COFFEE & ROLL

DISCOUNT

At selected Olís stations

21 FOR

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chicken & bacon sub

At select Olís stations

15 %

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brochure with every app access code you buy on board!

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Local food

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PASSENGER GUIDE

PORTABLE ELECTRONIC DEVICES Always permitted

Permitted at gate and above 10,000 feet*

Power outlets are located in all seats on Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex. USB outlets provide power to charge small personal electronic devices, such as mobile phones, cameras or iPods.

Aircraft B757-200 I Aircraft B757-300 Hearing Aid

Pacemaker

DVD Player

Plug

Laptop / Tablet

NOTE: *Larger PEDs (more than 1 kg) such as laptops must be securely stowed in overhead compartments or under the seat before takeoff and landing.

Rows 1–14

USB

All rows

NOTE: PEDs must be disconnected from any in-seat electrical power supply during taxiing, t akeoff, approach, landing and during abnormal or emergency conditions.

Always permitted*

Tablet

E-reader

Smartphone (in-flight mode)

Camera (digital, film, video)

NoiseCanceling Headphones (power ON)

CD Player

Media Player

Handheld Game

WHAT ELECTRONIC DEVICES CAN I USE ON BOARD THE AIRCRAFT? Handheld devices with flight mode Handheld devices, such as tablets, e-readers and mobile phones, may be used during all phases of the flight, provided that flight mode is enabled before departure. Devices must be safely secured in the customer’s hand or pocket during taxi, takeoff and landing. Devices without flight mode Any device that transmits or receives radio signals but does not have flight mode must be switched off for the duration of the flight. Laptops and other larger devices These devices may be used during boarding but not for taxi, takeoff and landing. They may be used in-flight. They shall be stowed away safely during taxi, takeoff and landing. Other devices without connectivity This includes items such as DVD players, electronic games and music players. Only small, handheld devices may be used during taxi, takeoff and landing. Larger devices must be switched off and stowed away safely during takeoff and landing.

84 Icelandair Stopover

NOTE: *Small lightweight Portable Electronic Devices, or PEDs – 1 kg or less (iPhone, iPad, iPad mini, Samsung Galaxy phones & tablets, Nokia, Microsoft Surface, Kindle e-reader, digital cameras, etc.) are permitted as long as they are secured during takeoff and landing. Passengers must either hold their PED or securely place it in the seat pocket. Lightweight PEDs may not be unsecured on the seat beside them. PED cords or accessories are not to impede emergency egress. We ask passengers to remove their headphones and pay attention to the safety briefing.

Are there times when I can’t use my handheld devices? Flight or cabin crew may ask you at any time to switch off all electronic devices should interference be detected. Can I connect to Wi-Fi (if provided in-flight) even if flight mode is enabled? Yes. Cellular services must be turned off (flight mode) at all times, but other wireless services such as Wi-Fi may be used above 10,000 ft if a connection service is installed in the aircraft. It is possible to re-enable Wi-Fi and connect to a Wi-Fi network while flight mode is enabled. A peaceful cabin for everyone To keep the cabin peaceful, please use headphones when listening to music or other material and place computer games and such on silent or very low volume. Precaution If your mobile phone or tablet gets caught in the seat, please inform the cabin crew and they will assist you. If a battery operated device overheats during the flight, inform the cabin crew immediately.

WIRELESS INTERNET ON BOARD SEE OUR WI-FI PORTAL FOR PRICING INFORMATION How do I connect to the Wi-Fi network? 1. Make sure your mobile device is set to flight mode during all phases of flight. Then activate Wi-Fi on your device. 2. Choose the “Icelandair Internet Access” network. 3. Open your browser of choice and then press “Get Wi-Fi” if using a laptop. On your phone, choose either the “Wi-Fi” or “Complimentary” option. What you can expect The connection speed is similar to 3G. Keep in mind that the on-board Wi-Fi is therefore not as fast as home connections. The number of users can affect the speed of the connection. Wi-Fi is available from the moment you board and until you leave the aircraft. A new state-of-the-art Wi-Fi system will be implemented across all of Icelandair’s fleet in the coming months.

What can I do when connected? You can check your email. n You can browse the web. n You can use social media and other communication platforms. n

Do I need to set my smartphone or tablet to flight mode? All smartphones and tablets may be switched on at all times, but in flight mode only. You might have to activate Wi-Fi separately when your device is set to flight mode. Your device must be safely secured in your hand or pocket during taxi, takeoff and landing. You can stay connected throughout your flight – from the moment you board and until you disembark. What kind of device can I use? You can use a laptop, a tablet or a smartphone to connect. The connection will be activated on the same device you use to purchase or validate Internet access. When can I start using the Wi-Fi access? You will be able to connect as soon as you want, and the connection will be active throughout your flight.

ANCHORAGE

Now Icelandair Saga Club members can use their Saga Points to pay for Wi-Fi access. For more details, see the pricing information in our Wi-Fi portal. HELSINKI

VANCOUVER SEATTLE

STOCKHOLM EDMONTON

OSLO

PORTLAND

SAN FRANCISCO ICELAND

BERGEN COPENHAGEN BILLUND BERLIN HAMBURG DUSSELDORF FRANKFURT AMSTERDAM MUNICH GLASGOW BRUSSELS ZURICH MANCHESTER MILAN DUBLIN LONDON PARIS GENEVA HEATHROW & GATWICK

DENVER

If you are having trouble connecting, please send an email to wifi@icelandair.is the next time you are connected to the Internet. More questions can be found in the Wi-Fi portal.

MINNEAPOLIS / ST. PAUL

MADRID CHICAGO KANSAS CITY

TORONTO CLEVELAND

MONTREAL

BOSTON WASHINGTON D.C. PHILADELPHIA NEW YORK

HALIFAX

JFK & NEWARK

TAMPA

ORLANDO

The pink color indicates network coverage on Icelandair routes.

Icelandair Saga Gold members and booked Saga Premium passengers get complimentary Wi-Fi access for two devices.

Icelandair Stopover 85

SAFETY FIRST Iceland’s vast nature is spectacular, unique—and unpredictable. Sunny and calm periods can transform into windstorms, blizzards and plummeting temperatures in a matter of hours. If you are planning to travel to a more isolated area, please leave a copy of your itinerary with the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue at safetravel.is, and, for all excursions, observe these tips: DRIVING n When driving, keep your full attention on the road, especially on areas where tarmac turns to gravel. Blind hills should be approached with caution. It is illegal to operate a vehicle after consuming alcohol. n

On single-lane bridges, the car closer to the bridge has the right of way, but it is always wise to stop and assess the situation.

Only take Highland roads if you have a 4x4 jeep, and make sure you have the experience necessary to operate these vehicles in tough conditions.

Roads can be quite slippery during winter, especially after frost in the early morning. All Highland roads are closed during winter.

Off-road driving is illegal.

HIKING When you are hiking, be prepared for sudden weather changes, stick to your travel plan, and dress appropriately, with water- and wind-resistant clothing, gloves and hats.

Do not get too close to cliff edges or hot springs. When waves are big, stay far from the water’s edge; be especially vigilant along the south coast, which is open to the Atlantic Ocean.

If you get lost, call 112, the emergency service line. Stay where you are and wait for rescue services to find you.

The search and rescue association also offers a free emergency app, downloadable from their website. Your coordinates will be sent to the emergency response crews should you use the app. There is more information on safe travel in Iceland on our in-flight entertainment system.

Visit safetravel.is for equipment lists, travel plans and the latest traveling conditions.

86 Icelandair Stopover

KNOW YOUR EMERGENCY NUMBER ICELAND / EUROPE �� 112 USA AND CANADA �� 911 UK �� 999 / 112 icesar.com Emergency calls are free to make from mobile phones. If you’re on the other side of the Atlantic, or in Iceland from North America, don’t forget to check on arrival if yours is working. Some phones operate on a different bandwidth and will not work in foreign countries.

ICELANDIC SEARCH AND RESCUE:

OUR COUNTRY’S BRAVE VOLUNTEERS If you get lost on a mountain, can’t find your way at sea, or encounter virtually any other difficulty in Iceland’s outdoors, the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue (ICE-SAR) is there to help. In a country with no military and only a few coast guard vessels and helicopters, ICE-SAR’s 3,000 highly-trained volunteers command deserved respect from both locals and visitors. Their teams deal with thousands of calls annually and are available 24 hours a day, on land or at sea. So while the vast majority of trips to Iceland will be without incident, you can rest easy that, should the need arise, the nation’s most experienced people will be prepared to save lives and prevent accidents under even the harshest conditions. Remember too that rescue operations are expensive to launch: Advanced equipment is used and volunteers take time off from their jobs to take part. ICE-SAR relies entirely on donations to finance itself; you can contribute via their website, icesar.com.

SAFETY ON BOARD We put safety first on all of our flights. The in-flight safety video gives a good overview of what you need to know for a safe journey. Please follow the instructions carefully and check out the safety card in your seat pocket. The cabin crew is there to assist and keep you safe at all times so please follow their guidance and suggestions. All electronic devices (mobile phones, tablets, e-readers) have to be switched off or in flight mode during the flight. Of course, this does not extend to heart pacemakers, hearing aids and other devices needed for medical reasons. If your mobile phone or tablet gets caught in the seat, please inform the cabin crew and they will assist you. If a battery operated device overheats during the flight, inform the cabin crew immediately. Whenever the seatbelt signs are on please: n

Stow devices larger than 10.5 in (27 cm) and/or more than 2.2 lb (1 kg) in the overhead compartment.

Please note that your life jacket may be located under your seat, above your seat, or in the armrest.

Hold devices smaller than 10.5 in (27 cm) and lighter than 2.2 lb (1 kg) or stow them in the overhead compartment or seat pocket. To keep the cabin peaceful please use headphones when listening to music or other material and place computer games and such on silent or very low volume.

luggage in the overhead compartments or place it under the seat in front of you. Be careful when opening the compartments as luggage may have shifted. When space is limited we might need to store some hand luggage the luggage hold. Smoking is prohibited on all Icelandair flights. This includes vaping.

For your safety and comfort we recommend that you keep your seatbelt fastened and visible throughout the flight. Store your hand

ICELANDAIR ALLERGY POLICY Icelandair cannot guarantee an allergen-free environment on board its aircraft. Therefore, we strongly encourage passengers with severe allergies that can result in anaphylaxis to bring an epinephrine auto-injector (EpiPenÂŽ) and any other medications they may need. The meals offered on Icelandair flights do not contain peanuts or peanut products, such as peanut butter, although trace elements from peanuts may be found in meals.

In addition, tree nuts (e.g. almonds) may be found in meals on board, and fish and shellfish are sometimes on offer in Saga Premium. Unfortunately, it is not possible to remove tree nuts, fish or shellfish from the cabin. In the case of severe nut allergy, our cabin crew can make an allergy announcement on board, asking other passengers on the flight not to consume foods that contain nuts. Please contact Icelandair Customer support

at +354 50 50 100 at least two business days before departure to request an allergy announcement. We do, however, wish to stress that Icelandair can in no way restrict other passengers from bringing or consuming their own food on the aircraft that may contain nuts or other allergens. For that reason, it is possible to find traces of nuts on seat cushions, arm rests, tray tables, or elsewhere in the cabin.

Icelandair Stopover 87

VISA WAIVER PROGRAM – VWP – FOR TRAVEL TO USA Samningur um undanþágu frá vegabréfsáritun til Bandaríkjanna (Visa Waiver Program) gerir ríkisborgurum tiltekinna landa kleift að ferðast til Bandaríkjanna í skemmti- eða viðskiptaferð í allt að 90 sólarhringa án þess að sækja um og fá sérstaka vegabréfsáritun. Ferðamönnum, sem þessi samningur tekur til, er eftir sem áður heimilt að sækja um vegabréfsáritun ef þeir kjósa svo. Aðeins tiltekinn fjöldi ríkja eru aðilar að þessum samningi (VWP) og ekki er öllum ferðamönnum frá ríkjum, sem eru aðilar að samningnum, heimilt að nýta sér undanþáguna. Öllum ferðamönnum frá löndum, sem eru aðilar að VWP, er skylt að sækja um rafræna ferðaheimild á vef bandarískra innflytjendayfirvalda (Electronic System for

VISA WAIVER PROGRAM The Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allows most nationals of participating countries to travel to the USA for tourism or business for up to 90 Lönd sem eru aðilar að samningnum um undanþágu frá vegabréfsáritun til Bandaríkjanna days without a visa. VWP travelers must have a valid Electronic System for Travel Authorization Countries participating in the Visa Waiver Program (ESTA) approval prior to travel and meet all n Andorra n France n Lithuania n Slovakia requirements explained at cbp.gov/esta. n Australia n Germany n Luxembourg n Slovenia n Austria n Greece n Malta n South Korea n Belgium n Hungary n Monaco n Spain n Brunei n Iceland n The Netherlands n Sweden n Chile n Ireland n New Zealand n Switzerland n Czech Republic n Italy n Norway n Taiwan n Denmark n Japan n Portugal n United Kingdom n Estonia n Latvia n San Marino n Finland n Liechtenstein n Singapore

Travel Authorization—ESTA). Þegar komið er til Bandaríkjanna verður starfsmaður innflytjendayfirvalda á

flugvellinum að staðfesta að viðkomandi ferðamaður hafi undanþágu skv. VWP og ferðamaðurinn er þá skráður í US-VISIT kerfið.

US CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM EN

Before arriving in the US, each traveler or head of family is required to fill this form out and present to US Customs.

Hver komufarþegi eða forráða maður í fjölskyldu skal gefa eftirfarandi upplýsingar (fyrir hverja fjölskyldu dugar EIN yfirlýsing).

Vor der Einreise in den U.S.A müssen Sie eine Zollerklärung ausfüllen. Ein Formular pro Familie ist erfordert.

1. Eftirnafn, skírnarnafn, miðnafn

1. Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname

2. Fæðingardagur dagur / mánuður / ár

2. Geburtsdatum / Tag / Monat / Jahr

3. Fjöldi fjölskyldumeðlima sem ferðast saman

3. Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder

4. a) Heimilisfang í Bandaríkjunum (nafn hótels / áfangastaðar) b) Borg c) Fylki

4. (a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels / Reiseziel) (b) Stadt (c) Staat

Avant d’arriver aux États-Unis, il vous sera demandé de remplir un formulaire de déclaration en douane. Un formulaire par famille suffit.

1. Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom. 2. Date de naissance Jour / Mois / Année. 3. Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous. 4. Adresse aux États-Unis a) Destination ou nom de l’hôtel. b) Ville. c) Etat.

5. Útgáfustaður vegabréfs (land)

5. Pass ausgestellt von (Land)

6. Númer vegabréfs

6. Passnummer

7. Land búsetu

7. Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land)

8. Lönd sem var farið til í þessari ferð, fyrir lendingu í Bandaríkjunum

8. Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA

7. Pays de résidence.

9. Flugfélag / Númer flugs eða heiti flugvélar

9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes

8. Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l’arrivée aux Etats-Unis.

10. Markmið þessarar ferðar er viðskiptalegs eðlis JÁ / NEI 11. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis: a) ávexti, jurtir, mat, skordýr: b) kjöt, dýr, dýraafurðir c) smitefni, frumuræktir, snigla d) mold eða hef/höfum dvalist á bónda bæ /mjólkurbúi / beitilandi JÁ/NEI 12. Ég hef (við höfum) verið í snertingu eða meðhöndlað lifandi dýr JÁ / NEI 13. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis peninga / gjaldmiðil eða aðra fjármuni að jafngildi hærri upphæð en USD 10.000. (sjá skilgreiningu á fjármun-um á bakhlið seðilsins) JÁ / NEI

10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich. Ja/nein 11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten. (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte. (c) Krankheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken. (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/einer Ranch/Weide. Ja/ nein 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit). Ja/nein

14. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis varning (til sölu eða sem ég hef (við höfum) keypt eða fengið erlendis, sem ekki teljast til persónulegra eigna) JÁ / NEI

13. Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit.

15. Búsettir í Bandaríkjunum – andvirði varnings sem ég hef (við höfum) keypt eða fengið erlendis (einnig gjafir fyrir aðra) er: Ekki búsettir í Bandaríkjunum – andvirði alls varnings sem verður eftir í Bandaríkjunum:

(Siehe die Definition von Zahlungsmitteln auf der Rückseite). Ja/nein

14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten) Ja/nein 15. Ansässige – der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschliesslich der kommerziellern Waren, die ich (wir) im Ausland gekauft oder erworben habe(n) - (einschließlich Geschenke an Dritte, jedoch ausschließlich Gegenstände, die per Post in die USA gesendet wurden) und in die USA einführe(n).

88 Icelandair Stopover

Besucher – der Gesamtwert aller Waren, die in den USA verbleiben werden, einschließlich der kommerziellen Waren, beträgt.

5. Lieu de délivrance du passeport (nom du pays). 6. Numéro de passeport.

9. Ligne aérienne / et numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau. 10. Vous voyagez pour raison d’affaires. OUI /NON 11. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes. b) viandes, animaux, produits provenant d’animaux ou d’animaux sauvages c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots d) terre. J’ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis, OUI / NON 12. J’ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail. OUI/NON 13. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d’espèces ou d’instruments monétaires d’une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d’instruments monétaire au verso) à plus de 10 000$ US. OUI / NON 14. Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstra tion ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels). OUI/NON 15. Résidents : La valeur totale de tous les arti cles (y compris les marchandises commer ciales) que j’ai / nous avons acheté ou acquis à l’étranger et que j’apporte / nous apportons (y compris cadeaux, mais qui excluent les effets affranchis vers les États-Unis) aux ÉtatsUnis. Visiteurs : La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis (y compris les marchan dises commerciales).

TRENDY TOUCHES

CULTURE AND CUISINE

TASTY AND TRADITIONAL

Pair creative, award-winning chefs with fresh, seasonal and local produce and you can’t go wrong. Add exquisite interior design and you’ve got Geiri Smart: a feast for all senses.

A charming gem at the heart of Reykjavík, Hannesarholt restaurant is the century-old home of poet and politician Hannes Hafstein. Lunch Tue-Fri and weekend brunch or a Thu-Sat night dining menu with fish, lamb, vegetarian and vegan dishes.

Focusing on Icelandic cuisine, the atmospheric Lækjarbrekka has operated in one of Reykjavík’s oldest buildings since 1981. Here you will find traditional Icelandic courses in their original home-cooking style as well as with a modern twist.

HANNESARHOLT • RESTAURANT REYKJAVÍK • STEIKHÚSIÐ THE LOBSTERHOUSE • SLIPPURINN • GEIRI SMART ESSENSIA • VOX • TORFAN • SATT • LÆKJARBREKKA

Over the past few years, Iceland’s culinary scene has taken huge leaps forward. With more selection than ever before, it should be easy to find a restaurant somewhere in the country that tickles your fancy.

13 OF OUR FAVORITE RESTAURANTS IN REYKJAVÍK To help you with your search for the perfect fare in Iceland, we’ve compiled a short description of some noteworthy places in the Dining Advisor brochure in the seat pocket in front of you.

You can also dive into a culinary episode on the in-flight entertainment system and Wi-Fi portal on board.