Icelandair Stopover magazine - summer 2018 by Icelandair

Welcome Aboard I Summer 2018

ICELANDAIRSTOPOVER #MyStopover

Enjoy a Summer Stopover in Iceland

YOUTH POWER

GRAND COUNTRY PARTY

GO ICELAND!

Icelandair Stopover / 1

24 types OF ICELANDIC beer

2 / xxxxxxxxx

W W W. K E FA I R P O R T. I S

#WHENINKEF

KEF airport is the busy place to be. You can choose between 24 different types of beer, leaf through hundreds of magazines, go for hot coffee (or cold), or even take a shower. Be fashionably early.

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LOOK INSIDE From Our CEO

Iceland 101

What to Do This Summer

Recommended Reads

World Cup: Iceland vs. Nigeria

World Cup: Iceland vs. Croatia

History: Father of Fantasy and Iceland

Icelandair Experience

My Town: A Lyrical Look at Hafnarfjörður

Saga Shop Kitchen

Our Top Stopover Picks

Icelandair @Work: New Horizons

Route Network

Our Fleet

In-Flight Entertainment

Services on Board

Devices and Wi-Fi

Safety First

Customs Forms

SUMMER 2018 I PUBLISHED BY ICELANDAIR

On a High in the Highlands

Iceland By Air

Film: A Tale of Two Women

World Cup: Iceland vs. Argentina

World Cup: Cheer for Team Iceland

Eiður Smári Guðjohnsen Talks Football

Music: Ateria Wins Battle of the Bands

#MyStopover: Among Eiders on Paradise Island

Icelandair on Instagram

Destination: Culinary Copenhagen

Children’s Corner: Visiting the Westman Islands

Photo Essay: Sorting Sheep at Réttir

Destination: New Side to New York

COVER IMAGE: Páll Ketilsson COPY EDITOR: Sarah Dearne CONTRIBUTING WRITERS: Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir, Sigríður Ásta Árnadóttir, Carolyn Bain, Karen Carmichael, Sarah Dearne, Vala Hafstað, Björn Halldórsson, Dylan Johnston, Kim Kaufmann, Larissa Kyzer, Einar Lövdahl, Kristín Ómarsdóttir, Brandon Presser, Lisa Gail Shannen, the Society of Antiquaries

2 / Table of Contents

Travel: Highland Oasis

EDITOR: Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir (editor@icelandair.is)

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR: KIDZinfligh

Festival of the Arts

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: Hörður Ásbjörnsson, Ágúst Atlason, Javier Ballester, Art Bicnick, Hilmar Björnsson, Hafliði Breiðfjörð, Sarah Dearne, Ursula Drake, Roman Gerasymenko, Benjamin Hardman, Friðþjófur Helgason, Dylan Johnston, Lilja Jónsdóttir, Larissa Kyzer, Jason Loucas, Brandon Presser, Ólafur Már Svavarsson, Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson, Jacob Sjoman, Rebecca Stumpf, Ross Weinberg, Ita Zbroniec-Zajt ADVERTISING: icelandair.us/advertise-en DESIGN: Hafsteinn Alexandersson, Ágústa S. Þórðardóttir / Icelandic Ad Agency PRINTING: Oddi

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MEN: Skólavörðustígur 16. WOMEN: Skólavörðustígur 7 & Kringlan. HOME: Skólavörðustígur 12. GEYSIR: Hafnarstræti, Akureyri and Haukadalur. Geysir.com

FROM OUR CEO

GO ICELAND! Dear Passenger, Icelanders are still on a high after the World Cup, where Iceland made history as the smallest nation ever to have qualified. We are extremely proud of our sporting heroes and continue to expect great things from our young and talented team. With football on the brain, this issue is packed with interesting stuff for soccer fans: On pages 28, 30 and 32, photos capturing the atmosphere at Iceland’s World Cup games; on page 34, a taster of the vibe at #TeamIceland events; and on page 38, an interview with Eiður Smári Guðjohnsen, Iceland’s most successful footballer of all time, about his amazing career and life after football. But there’s more to this issue than football. On page 22, Larissa Kyzer takes us on a magical hike through the “Valley of the Gods” and on page 54, travel writers and photographers Karen

Carmichael, Rebecca Stumpf and Ross Weinberg share with us their experience of rounding up sheep in North Iceland—the ageold tradition of réttir—through a stunning photo series. Meanwhile, photographer Dylan Johnston participates in a long-standing family tradition of picking eiderdown on Hrísey island (page 60). We also travel into the past, so to speak, and get to know Iceland through the writings of William Morris (1834–1896), the father figure of the Arts and Crafts Movement in the UK (page 46). Furthermore, in this issue, we let you in on “insider information” about two of our foreign destinations: New York, which in 1948 became our first destination in North America, and Iceland’s old capital Copenhagen (see pages 64 and 66). Icelandair proudly sponsors up-and-coming artists and on page 44, there’s an interview with the shooting stars of Ateria, the band that won the 2018

Músíktilraunir – Icelandic Music Experiments competition. On page 26, director Ísold Uggadóttir discusses her award-winning film And Breathe Normally (which you can watch on our in-flight entertainment system) and on page 50, celebrated author Kristín Ómarsdóttir writes about her hometown, Hafnarfjörður.

Björgólfur Jóhannsson Icelandair President and CEO

We are extremely proud of our sporting heroes and continue to expect great things from our young and talented team.

From landscape photography to culture festivals, children’s comics and travel tips, there’s something for everyone in Icelandair Stopover, providing you with plenty of reasons to stopover in Iceland when you fly Icelandair— at no extra airfare. Come visit us as we bask in the afterglow of the World Cup and enjoy the long daylight hours of the Icelandic summer. Áfram Ísland! – og góða ferð! I Go Iceland!—and have a nice trip!

BEHOLD ICELANDAIR’S SOVEREIGNTY PLANE natural wonders, volcanoes and glaciers, and Þingvellir—a UNESCO World Heritage Site and national park—is not only significant historically but also geologically. There, visitors can observe where two tectonic plates meet.

This year not only marks the 100th anniversary of Iceland’s sovereignty, but also the debut of the men’s national football team at the FIFA World Cup. Therefore, Icelandair wanted to do something really special. Flying the flag for national pride, Icelandair’s new Boeing 757-300 was repainted with the colors of the Icelandic flag: Blue for the blue of the mountains, sea and sky, red for the fire of the volcanoes and white for the ice of the glaciers. On the body, it reads:

ABOUT ICELANDIC LETTERS 4 / Editorial

“100 FULLVELDI ÍSLANDS” —“100 SOVEREIGNTY ICELAND.”

went on to tie Argentina 1-1 in the debut game on June 16.

To tie in with the World Cup, artificial grass lines the aisle, particularly fitting as the first flight of the new sovereignty plane took the Icelandic football team’s famous supporter club Tólfan to Moscow, where Iceland

The special livery aircraft was given the name Þingvellir, which is where Alþingi, Iceland’s parliament—often claimed to be the oldest in the world—was established in 930 AD. All of the airline’s aircraft are named after

The articles in this magazine use Icelandic letters and accents. In Icelandic, you can use accents on all the vowels: á, é, í, ó, ö, ú, ý. Each accent makes the pronunciation of the

vowel different. We also have an additional three letters: Æ (sometimes written as “ae”) is pronounced like the “i” in tide. Ð (sometimes written as “d”) is pronounced like the “th” in

Icelandair’s new livery aircraft will be flying the flag for Iceland for years to come. Read more about Þingvellir and the other aircraft in the fleet on pages 76, 78 and online: icelandair.com/about/our-fleet.

there. Þ (sometimes written as “th”) is pronounced like the “th” in think. Kærar þakkir fyrir að lesa blaðið! I Thank you for reading!

of things to Do in húsavík 2017

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ICELAND 101 Welcome to Iceland! Looking for the basics on Iceland before your Icelandair stopover? Here are a few essentials about our North Atlantic paradise. GRÍMSEY

SUÐUREYRI ÍSAFJÖRÐUR DALVÍK

FLATEY

REYÐARFJÖRÐUR

THIS IS HIGHWAY 1

ARNARSTAPI

We call it the Ring Road because, as you can see, it is shaped like a ring around the whole island. Many people like to follow this route when they want to see a lot of the country, but don’t forget to venture off on other roads so you can explore areas like the Westfjords, Snæfellsnes Peninsula and Reykjanes. The national language is Icelandic, and while you’ll have no problem getting by using English, we’re grateful anytime a visitor tries to use góðan daginn (good day) or takk (thank you). You are going to land at Keflavík Airport. When you first step outside, take a deep breath and inhale our wonderful clean air. Welcome to the North Atlantic. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, winter temperatures are milder here than you’ll find in New York or Toronto. When the thermometer creeps above 68°F (20°C) in summer, Icelanders bask in the sun at cafés and beaches. You probably already know that Iceland is a volcanic land. We also have many glaciers and countless other natural wonders. Remember to stay safe on your travels and check out safetravel.is before you go. There’s no need to buy bottled water when you’re here. What comes out of the tap is pure, clean, tasty—and free. You may notice the hot water has a slightly sulfurous smell, 6 / Icelandair Stopover

HOFSJÖKULL LANGJÖKULL

VATNAJÖKULL

AKRANES

REYKJAVÍK REYKJANESBÆR

HEKLA

VESTMANNAEYJAR

but it’s plentiful; we even use it to heat our homes! It does not get as cold in winter as you might think, but nevertheless our weather can be quite unpredictable. Bring lots of clothes to wear in layers—even in summer— and a good quality windproof jacket. Most importantly, don’t forget your bathing suit! Visiting our thermal pools is a highlight of most trips (though you can always rent a suit if you forgot yours). There aren’t a lot of trees in Iceland. It can be windy here. Remember to hold your car door when you open it. Trust us; your rental company will thank you. Electricity in Iceland is 220 volts, the same as in Europe. If you bring electronics from the US or Canada, you’ll need an adapter for both plugs and current. Iceland is a wired society, and you’ll find Internet hotspots almost everywhere. Many of you will be visiting our country to enjoy our unique nature, of which we are very proud. Please remember, though, that

Iceland’s delicate landscapes can take decades, or even centuries, to recover from misuse. Please don’t collect stones, tread on or pick up sensitive moss, or drive off road— even in what may appear to be barren, sandy territory. Speaking of our landscapes, you’ll notice that there aren’t many signs, fences or other barriers around our natural wonders. We trust your common sense. So when you see or hear a warning, please heed it: Do not step over ropes that are blocking an area. Hot springs can be dangerously hot. Rocks near waterfalls can be slippery. And the sea can be deceptively calm. Follow local advice. The name of Iceland’s capital, Reykjavík, means “smoky bay.” About two-thirds of our population of 350,000 live in the Capital Region. Photographers love Iceland for its incredible, ever-changing light. It never gets fully dark between about mid-May and early August, while in December a muted light shines over the island for a few short hours each day.

Spend the night at a snow-powered hotel In Iceland, all electricity is generated from renewable sources; falling water, the heat of the earth and the force of the wind. Welcome to the land of renewable energy. landsvirkjun.com/visitus

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ATOP “MEASURE HILL” Summer is the time to explore Iceland’s interior as Highland roads are closed in other seasons. Mælifell is an iconic composite cone volcano in the southern Highlands, just south of mountain route Fjallabaksleið syðri (F-210; only passable in 4x4 vehicles). Beloved among landscape photographers, the bright green moss-covered peak is in sharp contrast with the black volcanic sand of Mælifellssandur, on which it stands. This photo is taken from the top of the mountain, with Mýrdalsjökull glacier on the left. Mælifell is 2,595 ft (791 m) tall but as the sand plain is at an altitude of approximately 1,970 ft (600 m), the hike is no more than 660 ft (201 m). However, it is steep, and it is important to follow the trail to spare the delicate vegetation. The view of the rugged landscape of the interior is certainly rewarding. There are around 10 mountains in Iceland with the name Mælifell, which means “measure hill.” Located in different regions, these are all high standalone mountains with sharp peaks that can easily be recognized by travelers from a long distance. Through centuries, they have been used as landmarks. It is also believed that the settlers used these mountains to separate regions and divide the land between them, hence the name. TEXT BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTO BY BENJAMIN HARDMAN. instagram.com/benjaminhardman

BY SARAH DEARNE. Bolungarvík n Ólafsfjörður n Dalvík n

HERE

THERE

Fáskrúðsfjörður n

Here’s what’s happening on the hippest island in the North Atlantic this summer. FÁSKRÚÐSFJÖRÐUR

JULY 26 TO 29

French Days (Franskir Dagar) Fáskrúðsfjörður may look like a typical Icelandic fishing village, but street signs in French hint at a surprising past. Beginning in the 1880s, the bountiful coastal waters drew intrepid sailors from France, and soon this tiny East Iceland village had a Frenchbuilt hospital, church and even a consul. In the 1930s the Gallic population bade adieu and returned to warmer climes, but their legacy lives on at the annual French Days festival. Events include a pétanque tournament, street markets, live music, the Tour de Fáskrúðsfjörður bike race and various other family-friendly activities. franskirdagar.com

ICELAND

AUGUST 3 TO 6

Merchant’s Weekend (Verslunarmannahelgi) Merchant’s Weekend is Iceland’s most eventful long weekend, with festivals kicking off all around the country. The biggest is Þjóðhátíð (the National Festival) in Vestmannaeyjar, where thousands camp out for three days of concerts in Herjólfsdalur, a beautiful volcanic valley that forms a kind of natural amphitheater. If you prefer to keep the outdoors at safe distance, opt instead for Innipúkinn (“the indoors sulk”) music festival in downtown Reykjavík, where top-notch bands can be enjoyed free from the effects of rain and vitamin D. And if you want to get down and dirty, head up to Bolungarvík in the Westfjords for the Swamp Soccer Championship (Mýrarboltinn), where teams tussle over football in the mud. dalurinn.is • innipukinn.is • myrarbolti.com

REYKJAVÍK

AUGUST 7 TO 12

Reykjavík Pride Week Every August, Iceland comes together to support and celebrate the country’s vibrant LGBTQIA+ community. The main parade is one of the most popular events of the year, 10 / Events

Reykjavík n

N E

Photo: hinsegindagar.is

Vestmannaeyjar

town church, which is known for its rich acoustics. The festival is so named because mid-August is the beginning of berry season, and on the last day everyone is invited on a guided hike to sample Ólafsfjörður’s delicious wild blueberries and mushrooms. berjadagar-artfest.com

ICELAND

attracting everyone from rainbow-clad toddlers to flag-waving grandparents—a testament to Iceland’s rep as an open and accepting society. There’s also a busy sixday program of events, so be sure to check out some of the parties, educational talks, concerts, exhibitions and drag shows taking place around the town. hinsegindagar.is/en

DALVÍK

AUGUST 10 TO 12

The Great Fish Day Who says there’s no such thing as a free meal? The Great Fish Day invites guests to a generous buffet of delicious seafood, all free of charge. The event is hugely popular, and for a few days the seaside town of Dalvík, North Iceland, fills up with thousands of hungry visitors. There’s also plenty of entertainment on offer, including fun activities for the kids, a fish exhibition, street theater, kayaking, concerts and fireworks. fiskidagurinnmikli.is

ÓLAFSFJÖRÐUR AUGUST 16 TO 19 Berjadagar (Blueberry Music Festival) Now in its 20th year, Berjadagar brings together Iceland’s finest classical musicians for a wonderfully intimate festival in Ólafsfjörður, North Iceland. Guests include singers and instrumentalists from Iceland and abroad playing in venues such as the

SEPTEMBER AND EARLY OCTOBER

Réttir Every autumn, Icelanders hop on their horses and head out for réttir, the annual roundup. Sheep and horses have been roaming free in the mountains all summer, so they need to be herded and sorted back to their respective farms. It’s quite the spectacle, and everyone is welcome to come and watch and then celebrate at the end with singing, dancing, and some wellearned drinks. The most popular event is the horse roundup at Laufskálarétt in Skagafjörður, North Iceland, but you can attend réttir in farming regions all over the country. (Check out a photo essay on réttir on page 54.) bondi.is

REYKJAVÍK

SEPTEMBER 27 TO OCTOBER 7

Reykjavík International Film Festival (RIFF) Reykjavík International Film Festival showcases the year’s boldest, freshest and most fascinating independent films from Iceland and abroad. Guests have the opportunity to meet and chat with directors at panels and workshops, and screenings are sometimes held in strange and wonderful locations such as the swimming pool or the director’s own living room. You can buy individual tickets, or get the festival pass for a proper 12-day cinema binge. riff.is

NO NEED TO WAIT FOR YOUR BAGS if you do what the locals do and pick up some duty free goods in the arrival store before your luggage www.dutyfree.is

THE DUTY FREE ALLOWANCE IS 6 UNITS OF ALCOHOL, ANY WAY YOU LIKE IT Use the duty free allowance calculator on our website, www.dutyfree.is, to determine how to make the best use of your allowance.

THE CRIMINAL AND THE LYRICAL

From crime fiction to poetry and true-crime to crime-poetry, Björn Halldórsson will provide you with the reading thrill you seek while kept awake by the midnight sun.

OUT OF THIN AIR

DRÁPA

WAITRESS IN FALL

THE SHADOW KILLER

BY ANTHONY ADEANE

BY GERÐUR KRISTNÝ

BY KRISTÍN ÓMARSDÓTTIR

BY ARNALDUR INDRIÐASON

In this work of investigative journalism, Anthony Adeane exposes an ugly scar on the Icelandic national psyche. The cases of Guðmundur and Geirfinnur, two seemingly unconnected men who vanished without a trace in 1974, led to tension and paranoia running rife within Iceland’s insular community. What followed is considered by some to be one of the worst miscarriages of justice in Icelandic history. As the investigators wove them-selves a web of outlandish conspiracy theories, the confinement and constant interrogations began to take their toll on the suspects, leading to confessions and finally the conviction of six young people whose lives were irrevocably altered. All of them later withdrew their confessions. Adeane’s investigation—which began as a BBC documentary— does not unveil any new information per se, but his factual approach does a good job of setting the scene for the unique environment of 1970s Iceland, and the arrangement of the book’s many interviews provide the story with a singular narrative focus.

Gerður Kristný has called Drápa her contribution to Nordic Noir, despite the book being a novel-in-verse written according to the drápa poetic form common among the Viking Age skaldic poets. The title contains a dual meaning, as it also refers to the Icelandic word for “killing” (dráp). This slim book relates the tale of a young woman who falls through society’s cracks and is finally murdered by her husband. The picture that this long-form poem draws of Reykjavík is a dark and cold one, where women can easily fall prey to those who purport to be their protectors. In fact, the book is based on real events that Gerður encountered through her work as an investigative journalist, when—alongside interviewing victims of violence—she would regularly travel to Iceland’s prisons to speak to offenders and murderers. Although she has chosen the Dark One himself as narrator for the poem to provide the reader with a sufficient authority on evil, the compassion and tenderness that the poetry offers to its fallen beings is a striking reading experience.

With the publication of this selection of Kristín Ómarsdóttir’s poetry the oeuvre of one of Iceland’s foremost contemporary poets is at long last available to the Anglophone world. Editor and translator Vala Thorodds has provided a selection that spans Kristín’s 30-year career as a poet, and her choices unveil themes and aspects of Kristín’s work that have remained consistent throughout. The selection presents an extremely unified whole, building from Kristín’s earliest poems to her latest collection. Filled with surreal landscapes stockpiled from the scraps of modern life, her poetry is bound up with feminine physicality, sex and womanhood but also with dark humor and the domestic stupor of the everyday. Throughout, Kristín’s voice is utterly her own; fearless yet frail and tender, presenting lines that trip into one another, traveling from joy into despair and back again with only the barest fluctuation of tone and meaning.

In the second novel in Arnaldur Indriðason’s new wartime Iceland series we find Detective Flovent and Icelandic-Canadian army liaisons officer Thorson thrust together again due to a gruesome murder with evident connections to the American occupational forces. Set at a turbulent time when the occupational role of the British forces was being overtaken by the Americans, the novel’s focal point is the uneasy coexistence of Icelanders and the foreign armed forces. The all-toocommon habit of occupying soldiers everywhere courting or seeking favor from local girls is causing a moral panic in Reykjavík, leading to governmental interference as well as the involvement of private individuals attempting to put a stop to what they refer to sub rosa as “The Situation.” As with many of Arnaldur’s books, the tightly-wound plot is enhanced by the thorough map that the novel draws of the country’s capital and its history, allowing the reader to walk the streets of wartime Reykjavík alongside Flovent and Thorson as they hunt their killer.

Kristín Ómarsdóttir writes about her hometown Hafnarfjörður on page 50.

Check out which audio books are available on page 80 and on our in-flight entertainment system.

12 / Books

Icelandair Stopover / 13

DINOSAURS AND DAEMONS A flock of formidable looking dinosaurs tower over the crowds, swishing their long, glittering tails and piercing the air with their high-pitched primeval calls. Under the spell of their Burtonesque ringleader, sporting a black, Bauhaus-style costume, they playfully peck at the throngs of onlookers and nibble at the trees as they parade along the high street. The “Saurus” performance by the Close-Act Theatre from the Netherlands provided the spectacular opening event of the

14 / Reykjavík Arts Festival

2018 Reykjavík Arts Festival—a 17-day celebration of the arts running from June 1 to 17 and just one of the many visual spectacles in the extensive program of events. Later on, at Harpa, three floors are dedicated to Daniel Lismore’s extraordinary “Be yourself, everyone else is already taken” exhibition, a sensational army of wonder inspired by the Terracotta Warriors of China. Each of the life-size figures, with handpainted casts of Daniel’s face,

BY LISA GAIL SHANNEN. PHOTOS BY ROMAN GERASYMENKO.

features one of his striking “living art” costumes and is loaded with culture, history and pure daemonic force. The ensemble is meticulously assembled and detailed with an extensive collection of garments, fabrics and jewelry. Celebrity donations to the exhibition include a hat from Boy George, one of Björk’s headpieces and a vintage Balenciaga cabin crew hat from Icelandair. listahatid.is

The Reykjavík Arts Festival is held biennially in June, bringing together a vast network of multinational artists.

Icelandair Stopover / 15

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Jökulsárlón, flying over Vatnajökull glacier.

ICELAND BY AIR WINNING PHOTOGRAPHS Unveiling the top four bird’s-eye view shots.

Photo by Fedja Salihbasic (@felecool). 18 / Icelandair

To celebrate the exciting beginning of the renewal of our fleet, we launched the Iceland By Air game, where we encouraged all passengers to take an out-of-the-window shot of Iceland during their flight with Jökulsárlón, our new Boeing 737 MAX 8, and share it on social media under #IcelandByAir. Below, you can see the beautiful winning photographs from our talented passengers.

Photo by Roberto Leiro (@rleiro).

Boeing has developed a groundbreaking new aircraft that combines less fuel use, less noise and a revolutionary redesign of the passenger space, including a better view from the windows. We are proud to be among the very first airlines to take the aircraft of the future into use. We already have three of them up and running and will receive a total of 16 Boeing 737 MAX planes over the coming years.

Photo by Harriet Baskas (@hbaskas).

Photo by Nigel Thompson (@nigelcthompson).

VOLCANO & EARTHQUAKE EXHIBITION The Gateway to Iceland’s Most Active Volcanic Area

The Lava Centre A world class exhibition on volcanoes and earthquakes surrounded by active volcanoes.

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Volcanic eruptions in Iceland Walk through the recent volcanic history of Iceland and learn about over 30 eruptions.

Iceland Volcano & Earthquake Centre Austurvegur 14, Hvolsvöllur · South Iceland Icelandair Stopover / 19

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Walking along the Markarfljรณt riverbed, in the shadow of the Eyjafjalljรถkull glacier.

HIDDEN VALLEY OF THE GODS PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR.

22 / Travel

Larissa Kyzer reaches new heights in ร รณrsmรถrk.

It’s a crisp and clear July afternoon when I climb into the elevated 4x4 bus that will take me from the lovely Seljalandsfoss waterfall on the southern coast of Iceland into the Highland nature reserve of Þórsmörk—“Þór’s forest”—a densely wooded and verdant valley hemmed by glaciers that both local and foreign hikers speak of in the reverent tones reserved for gothic cathedrals or ancient stone temples. Iceland lacks any such architectural wonders, and yet it’d be hard to argue that any manmade marvel could compete with the experience of standing atop Mt. Valahnúkur, gazing for miles in every direction, tracing the serpentine tendrils of the Markarfljót river cutting across a broad black-sand flood plain and watching as a veil of fog is pulled slowly across the snowy face of Eyjafjallajökull glacier in the distance. A River Runs Through It Located on the far side of a deceptively deep and powerfully currented river (and several shallower ones, too) and largely inaccessible for much of the year, Þórsmörk is the proverbial hidden gem— one of those rare destinations that even many locals have yet to visit. We’ve barely gone 6 mi (10 km) when the landscape becomes more rugged, a little fantastical.

Our clear day has suddenly turned overcast and the silvery light gives a Middle Earth vibe to the steep, moss-covered sides of black mountains dotted with fat, fluffy sheep that turn and hop peevishly away from our rumbling intrusion.

front of us, its brittle whiteness flecked through with stripes of ash. Almost more eye-catching are the pops of yellow and violet—tiny flowers that have somehow managed to take root and thrive in this otherwise barren expanse.

There are several ways to get to Húsadalur, Þórsmörk’s de facto base for hikers, whether they’re ending the 19-mi (30-km) hike along the Fimmvörðuháls trail from Skógar, starting out on the 31-mi (55-km) Laugavegur trail to Landmannalaugar, or just enjoying any number of the shorter day hikes that spoke outwards from the campsite and comfortably rustic dormitories that Volcano Huts operates there. You can A) take a 4x4 bus, B) drive your own 4x4 vehicle, or C) hike some or all of the way, making the various river crossings by means of moveable, elevated footbridges. Observing several SUVs attempting, with various levels of success, to cross even the smaller waterways makes me glad that I opted for the first option, as does the sight of bedraggled walkers lugging heavy packs, heads down and fists tightly gripping their hiking poles.

Before long, we’re back on the bus and have reached the Krossá river, the current of which is whooshing along at an intimidating speed. We drive parallel to the river for several minutes until reaching a spot where deep tracks from the previous bus are visible in the wet sand. From my window, I can see tracks coming out on the other side of the river, but they’re some ways back downstream. Then we hear a series of mechanical clicks and clunks, almost like an old house settling, before driving into the river at an angle. Our progress is slow, but steady, and I quickly understand why the exit tracks from the other buses weren’t straight in front of us: Any vehicle that tried to forge directly into the river would surely be tipped over by the raging current.

The driver announces that we’ll be making one stop, turns up a gravelly hill and lets us out at an overlook facing the Eyjafjallajökull glacier. An ice tongue lolls into the valley in

Back on dry land, there’s more creaking and clanking before we continue around a mossy hill that looks like the humpback of a sleeping dragon. And then, without further ado, we’ve arrived.

The mist-shrouded mountaintop of Valahnúkur.

Gazing down at the Markarfljót riverbed from the top of Mt. Valahnúkur.

The peaceful campsite at Langidalur. Icelandair Stopover / 23

What do you do if you get lost in an Icelandic birch forest? Stand up (and enjoy the view)!

Arriving at Húsadalur.

Shorter trails intersect with multi-day hikes near Langidalur.

Shrouded in Mystery My companion and I waste no time in putting on our rain gear and heading out for our first hike. It’s about 3 pm, which means that even though it’s cloudy, the sun won’t set for another eight hours—and even then, it won’t be entirely dark. All of the trails leading out of Húsadalur are clearly plotted with color-coded markers and we walk towards Langidalur—a small, selfservice hut and camp area 1.1 mi (1.7 km) away from Volcano Huts. The trail meanders down through surprisingly dense birch woods and up past a rockface that bygone hikers carved their names into: Rósa og Jónas 1940 — Helgi & Sigrún 1987. (It’s only charming because the most recent etchings are 30+ years old; I’m very glad that this tradition has given way to our present-day Leave No Trace ethos.) The misty drizzle has turned into large, plopping raindrops, which only makes the landscape more ethereal. We’re in the Highlands, but actually, Þórsmörk is at a lower elevation than much of this inland region. The frequent swirls of fog that wreath the surrounding mountains are then created when warm air from the valley floor rises and mixes with the colder air rolling off the glaciers. I know that I’m wearing a wool sweater in the Highlands on an island in the North Atlantic and yet—with the 24 / Travel

birdsong pinging off the rock walls and mountains jutting up into the mist around me—I feel like I’ve been transported to a rainforest, albeit a chilly one, with no bugs.

splashing into little dells decorated with narrow waterfalls and an abundance of electric green angelica flowers, which fill the air with their distinct herbal perfume.

As the rain abates, we start our hike up Mt. Valahnúkur, which promises 360° views from its summit, 1,526 ft (465 m) above sea level. The path is pretty steep, but very well-maintained—in fact, we pass a group of young orange-jumpsuited trail maintenance volunteers enjoying a very scenic coffee break on our way up. When I stop to catch my breath and turn around, I’m rewarded with a magnificent view of the valley, right as the sun breaks through the clouds. It feels like I could reach out and touch the sparkling glacier peaks and am worlds away from the peaceful campsite and its colorful tents below.

All Tomorrow’s Hikes We dedicate most of our next day to a fivehour hike called the Tindfjöll Circle, a trail that sometimes wanders along broad, wideopen plateaus, and sometimes cuts a path so narrow into a mountainside that you have to walk heel-to-toe. The views are continuously, fantastically gorgeous, but being neither equipped with hiking poles nor the most experienced of hikers, we opt not to make some of the more precarious ascents. We’re able to connect with another trail, however, which leads us down into a gorge and back to the Markarfljót river bed, from where we’re able to take shorter trails that run parallel to the floodplain and up into different pockets of birch forest.

By the time we reach the top, more than a little triumphant, the fog has rolled majestically in once again. Heading down the back side of the mountain, we really have to take our time on the manicured stairway so as not to lose our footing. The fog becomes so dense that I don’t see a hiker coming up in the other direction until she’s almost standing on the same stair. Then we’re back on the forest floor, detouring to see the aptly named Sönghellir—“song cave”—and splish-

As we climb back into the 4x4 early the next morning, we’re already talking about when we might be able to return, perhaps to attempt one of the longer, multi-day hikes. I tend to believe that it’s always good to leave something undone when you travel, so that you always have a reason to come back. By this logic, I’ll have reasons to return to Þórsmörk long into the future.

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Icelandair Stopover / 25

BY VALA HAFSTAÐ. STILLS BY ITA ZBRONIEC-ZAJT. BLACK-AND-WHITE PHOTOS BY LILJA JÓNSDÓTTIR.

AIMING FOR AUTHENTICITY

Director Ísold Uggadóttir discusses her film And Breathe Normally, for which she received the Directing Award at the 2018 Sundance Film Festival.

At this year’s Sundance Film Festival, Icelandic director/screenwriter Ísold Uggadóttir’s first feature film, Andið eðlilega (And Breathe Normally), received the Directing Award in the category World Cinema Dramatic. This was followed by the FIPRESCI Award from the International Federation of Film Critics at the 2018 Göteborg Festival in Sweden. Set in Keflavík, Iceland, the film tells the story of two women whose lives intertwine—one of them a struggling single Icelandic mother, the other one an asylum seeker from Guinea-Bissau. Icelandair Stopover met with Ísold, who holds an MFA degree from Columbia University, to discuss her career and the film. When was your interest in filmmaking first kindled? I hardly remember not being interested in filmmaking. I lived in the US for six years as a child, while my parents were studying, and remember us constantly having happenings in our basement, whether it be breakdancing, creating haunted houses, or puppet shows. There was this desire to create something and to have an audience. My understanding is that as a very young child, I used to lead games, displaying something of an entrepreneurial spirit. I have vague memories of wanting to create something and receive a reaction. Later on, when I was a teenager, the family acquired a video camera, which I adopted, and I was constantly recording at home.

26 / Film

Why did you choose this subject in And Breathe Normally? I had recently completed my studies when I began work on the screenplay. I lived in New York City for 10 years, where I studied filmmaking and worked as a film editor. I came home a few years after the financial crash and was preoccupied with poverty and people who lost their homes and such. I initially began writing a story about a mother, a child and their cat—a family that becomes homeless. At the same time, around 2012, I frequently read news reports about refugees stuck in Iceland in a sort of limbo, where bureaucracy forces them to wait in constant uncertainty. I also became aware of people who took drastic

and at times life-threatening measures in these dire circumstances. It seemed obvious to me that this was material worth filming in Iceland. So, I looked for a way to connect the character I was developing, the Icelandic mother, with a female refugee in dire circumstances. To become better acquainted with these issues, I started working as a volunteer mentor at the Red Cross, and by chance I was connected with a woman from Uganda, who had fled her country due to her sexual orientation. We became friends, and she was kind enough to offer her insight as I continued to develop the work. How did you choose the title for the film? These are words you hear on board airplanes when you’re asked to put the oxygen mask on yourself first and then on the child, “and breathe normally.” I find it ironic and somewhat comical to ask passengers to breathe normally under circumstances where oxygen masks are needed. It is, of course, suggestive of utter denial, which also mirrors how the lead character Lára deals with her difficult circumstances. What effect would you, as a director, like to have on your audience in And Breathe Normally? I enjoy hearing from people that the film remains with them and that the characters of the film have a strong and lasting effect on them. Audiences seem to be able to feel their pain and struggles. In essence,

I hope the film leaves viewers with emotions that they are not fully able to describe, including examining their own prejudices. Which directors have influenced you the most? I can name the Belgian Dardenne brothers who adhere to a certain social realism, whose films are, in my view, very authentic and almost documentary-like. I’m also inspired by the British director Andrea Arnold, who is one of my favorites. Have you considered making documentaries? I have a feeling it will happen one day. There are a few subjects I’d consider taking on, but nevertheless I believe my next project will be a fictional film. Are you working on a film right now? Yes, I’m developing material at the moment but I do feel as if I’m at a crossroads, having just finished the marathon of making this film. It’s such a long journey so it’s important to choose a project that will keep you interested and engaged for a long period. What qualities does a film director need to succeed? Being able to work under pressure whilst maintaining a clear vision is important. It’s a job that requires a variety of skills, but above all I think you have to be able to block out of all of the distractions that often are present on a film set. A crucial part of the process is simply talking to people, that is, talking to actors and creative collaborators about creative decisions along the way, and making sure everyone is on the same page. It helps if the director is a good listener, willing to adjust to new ideas and suggestions. There is a constant search for some sort of truth in every single moment, making certain that every scene feels authentic and true. A good director must also be aware that every single actor matters, not just the leads. What significance does it have for you to have received the Sundance award? I hope it will make funding for my next film and its production easier, and that I am able to get to the filming process quicker. Hopefully, it will also result in more people seeing And Breathe Normally. For me, as the filmmaker, it is of course incredibly rewarding to have spent more than five years on a project that turned out to be successful. You can watch And Breathe Normally on the in-flight entertainment system.

Ísold on set.

Goalkeeper Hannes Þór Halldórsson was named Man of the Match for making several saves, including a penalty by Lionel Messi.

DON’T CRY, ARGENTINA

Iceland “wins” first World Cup game 1-1.

Stopping Lionel Messi, one of the world’s best footballers, and his team Argentina— the 2014 World Cup silver medalist—was never going to be easy. That’s why the 1-1 draw felt like a victory. On June 16, Iceland played its debut game in the 2018 FIFA World Cup in Russian capital Moscow. The smallest ever nation to have qualified for the World Cup, Iceland was determined to make an impression. The game’s first goal was scored by Sergio Agüero in the 19th minute. But Iceland was quick to kick back; in the 23rd minute, Alfreð Finnbogason scored the equalizer. Iceland was on the defense in the second half, struggling to keep the ball away from their goal, when Argentina got a penalty. The tension was high when Messi took the shot. But, with nerves of steel, Iceland’s goalkeeper Hannes Þór Halldórsson deflected the ball. Despite some more close calls, Iceland stood their ground and earned an important point. Hannes made many crucial saves and was named Man of the Match.

BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTOS BY HAFLIÐI BREIÐFJÖRÐ / FOTBOLTI.NET

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Iceland’s head coach Heimir Hallgrímsson expresses his gratitude after the game.

Midfielder Gylfi Þór Sigurðsson battles Argentina’s Cristian Pavón for the ball.

Striker Alfreð Finnbogason celebrates after scoring Iceland’s first goal at the World Cup.

Midfielder Birkir Bjarnason helps Lionel Messi get back on his feet.

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Midfielder Gylfi Þór Sigurðsson in action.

NEVER MIND, NIGERIA

After a dream start at the World Cup, Iceland took a blow.

Still on a high after the 1-1 draw against 2014 World Cup silver medalist Argentina, Icelanders expected nothing less than victory over Nigeria in Volgograd on June 22. The game started out well with Iceland attacking aggressively, albeit missing some golden opportunities to score, and putting up a good defense. At half-time the score was 0-0. The second half was quite different. Nigeria seized control of the game and in the 49th minute, Ahmed Musa scored after an excellent pass from Victor Moses. Then, in the 75th minute, Musa did it again, increasing Nigeria’s lead to two goals. Shortly before the end of the game, Iceland earned a penalty, but Gylfi Þór Sigurðsson missed the goal. This sealed Iceland’s fate and the end score was 2-0 for Nigeria. Musa was named Man of the Match.

Defender Hörður Björgvin Magnússon in mid-air.

Captain Aron Einar Gunnarsson tries to keep Ahmed Musa away from the ball.

Midfielder Birkir Bjarnason chases after Victor Moses.

Ahmed Musa celebrates scoring against Iceland.

Bummed but not broken, Iceland’s captain Aron Einar Gunnarsson admitted to “recklessness” in interviews after the game but promised victory against Croatia on June 26—Iceland’s final chance to make it to the knockout stage.

BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTOS BY HAFLIÐI BREIÐFJÖRÐ / FOTBOLTI.NET

30 / World Cup

Icelandair Stopover / 31

After scoring from a penalty, Gylfi Þór Sigurðsson gave Iceland renewed hope of making it to the knockout stage.

SO CLOSE, CROATIA

After a 1-2 defeat against Croatia, Iceland’s World Cup dream was out.

For its third and final game in the group stage on June 26, Iceland took on its “old” rival Croatia in Rostov. After having been pitted together in the qualifying stage for both the 2014 and 2018 World Cups, the two teams knew each other’s strengths and weaknesses. The game was a nerve-wracking affair throughout. In the first half, Iceland had more of the ball, creating chances to score but missing them… just barely. At half-time the score was 0-0. Iceland returned to the pitch determined to win and advance to the knockout stage, but devastatingly, in the 53rd minute, Milan Badelj scored for Croatia. Luck seemed to turn in Iceland’s favor in the 71st minute when they earned a penalty. This time, Gylfi Þór Sigurðsson struck the ball just under the crossbar—scoring the equalizing goal for Iceland.

Defender Sverrir Ingason and Croatian forward Marko Pjaca head-to-head.

All eyes on the ball: Defenders Ragnar Sigurðsson and Sverrir Ingason in full swing.

Defender Birkir Sævarsson tries to stop Croatian forward Ivan Perišić.

So close! Croatian goalie Lovre Kalini prevents Iceland from scoring.

Croatia was not about to give up though, and the last 20 minutes were almost unbearable to watch. Iceland gave their all, but in vain. The last goal was scored by Ivan Perišić in the 90th minute, landing Croatia’s ticket for the 16-team finals. Meanwhile, Argentina beat Nigeria, also progressing to the knockout stage. While disappointed—naturally—Gylfi stated in interviews after the game that this was just the beginning. Iceland belonged among the world’s best teams, he said, and hungry for more he vowed that they would be back for the next Euros—and the next World Cup. BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTOS BY HAFLIÐI BREIÐFJÖRÐ / FOTBOLTI.NET

32 / World Cup

Icelandair is a proud sponsor of the Icelandic national football teams.

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MEANWHILE, IN ICELAND

BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTOS BY HÖRÐUR ÁSBJÖRNSSON.

Celebrating the first World Cup match in style. In Moscow on June 16, the heat was on as the referee blew the whistle, starting Iceland’s debut game at the World Cup, against Argentina. Dedicated fans followed the team to Russia, but not all could make it to the game. Back in Reykjavík, the fan zone at Hljómskálagarðurinn public park in the city center was packed with eager spectators, eyes glued to the huge screen. Not only Icelanders are fans of the Icelandic football team. Iceland caught the world’s attention with its underdog run at the 2016 Euros, and then solidified their reputation last year by becoming the smallest ever nation to qualify for the World Cup. To round up as many fans as possible to cheer for Iceland, Inspired by Iceland launched the #TeamIceland campaign, and with support from Icelandair, they invited some lucky winners to join in on the celebration in Iceland. After watching the game at Hljómskálagarðurinn, the group of around 100 special guests were invited to a whale exhibition at the Grandi harbor, and afterwards on a sailing tour to Viðey island off the capital’s coast. There, the Icelandic national culinary team had prepared a three-course meal of Icelandic fish, lamb and skyr for a delicious end to a delightful celebration. Icelandair is a proud sponsor of the Icelandic national football teams—and of the national culinary team.

The presidential couple encourage football fans worldwide to join #TeamIceland.

JOIN TEAM ICELAND The #TeamIceland campaign kicked off 100 days prior to Iceland’s first game at the World Cup. In a video, President of Iceland Guðni Th. Jóhannesson and First Lady Eliza Reid demonstrated their football “skills” inside the presidential residence while inviting the world to join #TeamIceland. A nation of only 350,000 people needed all the support they could get! Each member received a personalized digital jersey with their own squad number and their “Icelandic” name. The world took notice, and at kickoff almost 50,000 people from 191 countries had signed up. Thank you all for your support. Go #TeamIceland!

Top: The winners were welcomed to Viðey by brass band Lúðrasveit Verkalýðsins. Middle: The national culinary team preparing the festive dinner. Bottom: The dinner party at Viðeyjarnaust on Viðey island.

34 / World Cup

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Eiður sitting outside Maradona’s first home in Buenos Aires.

BY EINAR LÖVDAHL. PHOTOS FROM SHOOTING LOCATIONS IN ARGENTINA BY HILMAR BJÖRNSSON. OTHER PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE FOOTBALL ASSOCIATION OF ICELAND.

FOOTBALL CAN UNITE PEOPLE Eiður Smári Guðjohnsen, Iceland’s most successful footballer of all time, looks back at a unique career.

On a warm summer night in Rome, May 27, 2009, Eiður Smári Guðjohnsen lifted the prestigious Champions League trophy with Barcelona, becoming the first and only Icelander to win it. Prior to Eiður’s spell with Barca, he had won back-to-back championships in the English Premier League with Chelsea. All in all, Eiður played first-team football for 15 clubs in nine countries and became the leading goal scorer in the history of the Icelandic men’s national team, with two decades between his first and last cap for Iceland. Now a football pundit on TV, he recently warmed up for the World Cup in the most fitting way: By traveling the world.

From Eiður’s last chapter with the national team, the 2016 Euros. 38 / Football

It’s summertime, football season in Iceland, and all people talk about is the World Cup, yet you don’t have football boots on. How does that feel? It’s alright. I played professionally for over 20 years and I always knew that eventually it would come to an end. However, right after I quit I went through a period of grief,

so to speak. But you learn to accept it and now I’m happy to look back at simply great memories. But besides that, I actually do play once a week when I’m in Iceland. Nowadays, playing five-a-side football at noon with some friends is my Champions League. You have 88 games and 26 goals for Iceland to your name. What’s the first moment that comes to mind when you hear that? My first game for Iceland was the most special because I came on as a substitute for my father [Arnór Guðjohnsen]. But all in all, my time with the national team was a roller coaster ride. In my peak years, we had a fine team and came close to qualifying for a major tournament a few times, but then again, we also went through lows, times where we ranked at 100-and-something on the FIFA World Ranking. My last chapter with the team was the upswing of the last few years and it gave

me a lot to take part in that; fighting for a place in the 2014 World Cup and eventually qualifying and playing in the 2016 Euros. It made it easier for me to accept the whole roller coaster ride. Shortly after the famous moment when you replaced your father, you missed the opportunity to play together because of an injury that kept you out of football for two years. In the meantime, your father retired. Last summer you had the chance to play with your son, Sveinn Guðjohnsen, who plays for Breiðablik in Iceland. Wasn’t that tempting? It certainly was. I had been training with the team for a couple of weeks when they suggested that I’d play for them. Obviously, I’ve played with Sveinn in training and it feels wonderful. He’s a great player and we can almost read each other’s minds. But in the end, I made a “fatherly” decision. I didn’t want the media attention it would have caused, both in Iceland and from abroad, and I felt like my time was up and the boy should flourish without having his dad around. You won various titles with Chelsea and Barcelona. If you’re 100% honest, don’t you ever look back and ask yourself, “Wow, all that really happened?” Well, yes [laughs]. I think all these memories just become sweeter as time goes by. Once I become a grandfather, I will probably log on to YouTube with the littles ones on my lap: “Look, your granddad used to be quite good” [laughs]. All jokes aside, I don’t pinch myself, and never have, because for me it was all normal. I don’t mean that in an arrogant way, I’m just saying, I never had stars in my eyes while I was training with the best players in the world. They were just my teammates and I had simply reached that level myself. I’m trying to imagine a training session at Barcelona: Ronaldinho, Messi, Xavi, Iniesta, Henry. Can you describe for us mortals what the football was like at those trainings? It was the football of my dreams. Let’s say the squad was split into two sides, when the other team had the ball, it felt like a nightmare, but when my team had it, it was like heaven. You’ve traveled the world through football, playing for clubs in nine different countries, and recently you visited Argentina, Croatia and Nigeria while filming a show about our World

Playing Latvia in the 2016 Euro qualifiers. Cup opponents. What has all this taught you about football? Football can give so many so much, even though it’s just a game. Football can unite people, especially when it comes to an event like the World Cup. It’s like people are able to look past everyday troubles and all of a sudden, a whole nation is synchronized. Icelanders experienced this during the Euros two years ago. Nobody was talking about bad weather or fighting over politics—every Icelander was positive.

Eiður in his new role as TV host.

You were also on screen during the World Cup qualifiers. How do you like working in television? I really enjoy it. Obviously, it’s very different from my former profession and requires a different kind of energy, but it’s fun. I’ve got some positive feedback, and it seems like people enjoy listening to me talk about football, but I’ve always said—if I can’t talk about football after all these years, then I can’t talk about much at all.

The core of the group are boys who almost grew up together, they stepped up to Iceland’s first team together, and so they know each other in and out. Everything is about unity. It’s fair to say that we don’t have the best footballing quality in the world, but we have the biggest hearts, and that aspect is really evident within every single player of the squad.

What about watching the national team from afar, how’s that? It’s harder than being on the pitch. It’s difficult to get used to not being able to affect the game when you’re still so invested in it, I really want the team to succeed. Sometimes I simply have to look the other way when the opposing team is attacking, but the thrill when we score is still as great. It’s only been two years since you were a part of the squad. How would you describe the boys?

What does the next chapter look like for you? I live in the moment. We’ll see what’s on the table after the World Cup. I’ve been really busy since I hung up my boots so I’m looking forward to taking a nice break after the World Cup. I have certain ideas and I can guarantee that whatever I’ll do, it will be football-related. The interview took place prior to Iceland’s matches at the World Cup.

Icelandair Stopover / 39

Guðbjartur at his studio.

NOT JUST ACCESSORIES Infinity by Vera Design won the bronze at the 2018 A’ Design Award. Here’s the story behind the bracelet.

Íris, wearing her jewelry.

Jewelry from the Infinity line.

Designer and stylist Íris Björk Jónsdóttir was at a crossroads in her life when in 2012 a bracelet gave her a new sense of direction. “It was the ‘Infinity’ bracelet, as I would later call it. I had worn it for many years. It was a gift from my former partner.” Engraved with religious symbols, the bracelet is the design of Icelandic goldsmith Guðbjartur Þorleifsson. “I was having a drink with my friend, Sigurður Kristjánsson, flight attendant at Icelandair, and he said: ‘I know we could sell this on board the planes’.” Íris wasted no time and contacted Guðbjartur the following day about a possible collaboration, and 48 hours later, she had bought his design. The pair worked together until Guðbjartur passed away in 2017 at 86.

40 / Special Promotion

Guðbjartur found his inspiration not only in Christian symbols but also in Norse mythology, Icelandic nature, history and the sagas. “He spent a lot of time at the National Museum, studying objects from excavations, like the Urnes brooch, Thor’s hammer and runic symbols.” Always with respect for Guðbjartur’s vision, Íris now makes her own jewelry. “It’s more modern but I hold onto his classic style.” Íris is currently working on a design based on the Icelandic coat of arms, something her mentor was keen on having her realize. Íris’s first design was a necklace in the Infinity line, which is still her best-selling piece of jewelry. The pendant is a circle with the same symbols as on Guðbjartur’s original bracelet but Íris felt something was missing. “When I was sketching it, my

daughter, who was nine at the time, came into the room and said: ‘Why don’t you put a cross in the center?’ ‘Yes, brilliant!’ I said, and that’s how it was created.” Jewelry by Vera Design comes in different sizes and versions, in gold, silver, rose gold and black. The pieces can be worn in a variety of ways and new pieces harmonize with previous designs. Suitable for people of all ages, they “don’t go out of fashion after three weeks,” states Íris and smiles. Their message is important, too. “Like the ring with the Serenity Prayer. If you’re irritated about traffic, or whatever, it reminds you of serenity. They have a meaning. They’re not just accessories.” Flip over this magazine and you’ll discover our exclusive Saga Shop Collection of on-board duty-free products.

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HANNESARHOLT • RESTAURANT REYKJAVÍK • STEIKHÚSIÐ TORFAN • SLIPPURINN • KITCHEN & WINE • OSTABÚÐIN ESSENSIA • VOX • OSUSHI THE TRAIN • GLÓ TORFANSATT • GEIRI SMART

Over the past few years, Iceland’s culinary scene has taken huge leaps forward. With more selection than ever before, it should be easy to find a restaurant somewhere in the country that tickles your fancy.

13 OF OUR FAVORITE RESTAURANTS IN REYKJAVÍK To help you with your search for the perfect fare in Iceland, we’ve compiled a short description of some noteworthy places in the Dining Advisor brochure in the seat pocket in front of you.

You can also dive into a culinary episode on the in-flight entertainment system and Wi-Fi portal on board.

DINING

Icelandair Stopover / 43

BY LISA GAIL SHANNEN. PHOTOS BY ROMAN GERASYMENKO.

YOUTH POWER Ateria wins the annual Icelandic Music Experiments competition.

Winning smiles—Ateria with their IME awards. From left: Fönn Fannarsdóttir, Ása Ólafsdóttir and Eir Ólafsdóttir.

44 / Music

Ateria perform on the IME stage at Harpa.

Nothing quite captures the spark of potential like the raw power of youth, as demonstrated by the three young members of the band Ateria, who, despite their tender age and limited experience, won over the judges at this year’s Icelandic Music Experiments (IME), held in late March. The band, all locals from Reykjavík, is composed of two sisters, Ása Ólafsdóttir (18) and Eir Ólafsdóttir (15), and their cousin, Fönn Fannarsdóttir (13). The girls battled 29 other hopeful acts to win the 2018 top spot. Like Of Monsters of Men, who won the title in 2010, and Between Mountains, last year’s winners, Ateria have picked up some excellent prizes, including studio time, flights with Icelandair and the opportunity to perform at a number of fantastic music festivals, both in Iceland and abroad. Most importantly, they have secured some essential support to give them every chance of success in the music industry. Icelandair Stopover caught up with IME’s latest champions to find out more about their adventures in music. Congratulations on winning this year’s IME! How did you all feel when they announced that you’d won? (EÓ) Thanks! The feeling was very surreal and I had a really hard time believing that we’d actually won. (FF) I was surprised and very happy. (ÁÓ) I was completely surprised and happy of course. I was not expecting to win at all. Was IME your first ever competition as a group? How long did you have to prepare for it? (ÁÓ) IME was our first competition as a

group; we had only performed once before. We prepared for it for about two to three weeks. What’s the story behind the band? (ÁÓ) Eir and I are sisters and we always wanted to start a band or something like that. Then we heard that Fönn had started learning to play the drums and we thought it’d be brilliant if we could get her with us. How did you come up with the name? (ÁÓ) It took us a really long time to come up with the name, but then we decided to try to find something that we all have in common, besides being related. Our grandparents take care of a nesting area of eider ducks in the summer and we have all helped out. We took the name Ateria from the Latin name of the eider, which is Somateria mollissima. For those who haven’t heard your music yet, how would you describe it? (EÓ) Describing our music is quite hard. [The songs] are not all that alike and we have never really decided on a genre ourselves, though we have been described as “folk-goth” by other people. (ÁÓ) We don’t really like to put a label on it, but, yes, people have called it folk-goth. Are you inspired by any other artists? (FF) I listen to Adele, Ruth B and many other artists. (EÓ) I suppose that what one listens to will always affect what one plays. I really like bands like Radiohead, Muse and Red Hot Chili Peppers, but also artists like Emilíana Torrini and amiina.

(ÁÓ) Yes, I like artists like Led Zeppelin, Grýlurnar, Radiohead, Muse, Sigur Rós, Mammút, Eivør and many more. I also like to listen to classical music. We all listen to rather diverse music and it does affect what we do. How do you go about writing your songs? Who does what? (EÓ) Ása is the main songwriter in our band. We usually get an idea and then she works something out of it. We add our bits, but the songs are mainly hers. (ÁÓ) I also write the lyrics for the songs. Sometimes I get an idea for a song or lyrics and I think about it constantly until I finish it. What do you love most about making music? (FF) It’s fun and you learn something every time you make music. (EÓ) Music is a way to express yourself, I suppose. It’s a great feeling when you listen to something and think, “Wow, I wrote that.” (ÁÓ) It’s also a way to explore yourself; in a way, the music I write often reflects the mood I’m in. I also like it because it feels good to have made something worth listening to. What’s next for Ateria? (EÓ) We will perform at Secret Solstice and Iceland Airwaves this year, and try to do as much playing as we can. (ÁÓ) We’re also going to record some songs in June and maybe release a music video after that. Icelandair is a proud sponsor of the Icelandic Music Experiments.

Icelandair Stopover / 45

BY THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES. PHOTOS FROM THE SOCIETY’S COLLECTION.

“I AM A MAN OF THE NORTH” William Morris. “So I have seen Iceland at last … I went up on deck for that great excitement, the first sight of a new land … a terrible shore indeed: a great mass of dark grey mountains worked into pyramids and shelves, looking as if they had been half built and half buried … and wreaths of cloud dragged across them here and there …”

William Morris and Iceland. So wrote William Morris in his diary on July 13, 1871, while on board the ship Diana, as she sailed past the dramatic southeastern corner of Iceland.

Librarian at the University of Cambridge. They collaborated on translations of the Sagas and traveled together to Iceland for the first of Morris’s two visits.

William Morris (1834–1896) was one of the most influential figures of the 19th century, having achieved worldwide fame as designer-craftsman, writer, translator, conservationist and political activist. Morris was the father figure of the Arts and Crafts Movement, which advocated the revival of traditional handicrafts and a return to a simpler way of life. His extraordinary prose romances—now considered amongst the first fantasy novels—influenced such writers as C. S. Lewis and J. R. R. Tolkien.

Morris kept a diary of his travels, describing the main sites of the Sagas, as he and his companions trekked along the south coast to Bergþórshvoll, Þórsmörk, Geysir, Þingvellir, and then back to Reykjavík; he was overwhelmed by the “strangeness and excitement” of it all. He relished the physical challenge of getting around the country by horse, camping outdoors and cooking over a campfire. As well as admiring the drama of Iceland’s varying landscapes, Morris admired, too, the resilient Icelandic people who offered a welcome of great warmth to the travelers.

In 1871 Morris rented Kelmscott Manor jointly with his friend, the Pre-Raphaelite painter-poet Dante Gabriel Rossetti. For the next three years this ancient West-Oxfordshire countryside retreat provided privacy for the romantic relationship taking place between Rossetti and Morris’s wife Jane. Morris’s trip to Iceland over the summer months of 1871 provided him with an escape from the deep unhappiness of his troubled homelife to a place where he could explore his passionate interest in ancient Nordic culture, fueled by the Victorian popularity of the Icelandic Sagas. Morris had more than a superficial interest in these epic works, having studied both the literature and language with Icelandic scholar Eiríkur Magnússon (1833–1913), 46 / History

Morris returned to Iceland two years later, revisiting many of the sites he had previously seen, before continuing north to Vatnajökull glacier and Fljótsdalur. He was struck afresh by the impact of Iceland as somewhere that history, custom and community—all of fundamental importance to Morris—still retained their meaningfulness within a society slow to change. A living tradition of folk art and craft went hand-in-hand with this way of life, and Morris took many examples back to England (some of which can be seen today at Kelmscott Manor), which were highly treasured within his own family. His experience of Iceland had a profound effect on Morris’s social and political thinking:

“I learned one lesson there, thoroughly I hope, that the most grinding poverty is a trifling evil compared with the inequality of classes.” It spurred him towards direct political action in the coming years. Indeed, he made a special pilgrimage to Þingvellir, where the Icelanders had created the first democratic parliament in 930. Of his second trip to Iceland Morris wrote: “The journey has deepened the impression I had of Iceland and increased my love for it.” He would maintain links with the country for the rest of his life, in the form of friendships and, in the 1880s, as a prime mover in the Iceland Famine Relief Fund. In the words of his first biographer (1899), William Morris’s travels to Iceland were of “an importance in Morris’s life which can hardly be over-estimated.” William’s daughter May Morris (1862–1938), a renowned designer and embroiderer herself, followed in her father’s footsteps and visited Iceland three times between 1924 and 1931 with the companion of her later years at Kelmscott Manor, Mary Frances Vivien Lobb. Like her father she kept detailed diaries, and these (along with papers and photographs) have recently been acquired by the Society of Antiquaries of London, which owns Kelmscott Manor, the Morris family’s country retreat. May’s observations of the people and places they encountered were as detailed and vivid as her father’s, and she too made lasting friendships there.

Kelmscott Manor next to the Thames.

May Morris in Iceland. In the last entry of May’s travel diary on Thursday, September 3, 1931, she writes as she sails homeward from the port of Vestmannaeyjar: “All along the South coast we had an unforgettable panorama of the Southern mountains—like a sort of day dream, soft and lovely against a flawless sky … The last of Iceland—my father’s ‘holy land’ and grown very dear to me.” At both Kelmscott and in Iceland, the past and present seemed to meet for William Morris, their ancient communities rooted to the land and to tradition. In his writings and his conservation activism he strove to safeguard such places, their fragile simplicity representing the irreplaceable in a world of rapid and unthinking change. It is a legacy that continues to this day.

About Kelmscott Manor and the Society of Antiquaries William Morris was elected a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries in 1894. Founded in 1707, the Society is the oldest learned society in the world concerned with the study of the material culture of the past. Its mission, as stated by its Royal Charter of 1751, is “The encouragement, advancement and furtherance of the study and knowledge of the antiquities and history of this and other countries.” The Society owns and maintains Kelmscott Manor and opens it up to the public from April to October each year. The Society has recently embarked on a GBP 6 million conservation project to secure the future of Kelmscott Manor. Major repairs and refurbishment works to Kelmscott Manor will take place from autumn 2018 until spring 2021. You can learn more about Kelmscott Manor and help support this conservation work at sal.org.uk/support-us/ kelmscott-manor-campaign.

Icelandair Stopover / 47

DISCOVERING ICELAND IN THE SKY Whether you’re flying with us today en route to or from Iceland, or between Europe and North America with a short airport stopover, we’d like you to feel as if you’ve learned a little bit about our country during the flight. We’re very proud of our Icelandic heritage and culture and hope we’re able to share that enthusiasm with you. Take a look around you now. You should spot several little glimpses of Iceland, but if you want to catch them all, here’s our cheat sheet: The music as you boarded was composed and performed by Icelandic artists. Like it? It’s from our Icelandair Spotify playlist. You can check out the playlist in our in-flight entertainment system. Our menu selection features Icelandic ingredients and snacks like hjónabandssæla (oat-and-jam square) and awardwinning lager.

48 / Icelandair

We are very proud of our ancient language. You’ll see some samples of Icelandic, which is a North Germanic language, throughout the cabin. Some headrests show Icelandic translations of some common phrases in English, while pillow covers show a popular traditional lullaby both in Icelandic and in translation. The paper cups list the different words used in Icelandic for cups, and the napkins tell you about Iceland’s first settlers. Our in-flight entertainment system features numerous Icelandic films, documentaries and television programs, as well as an exclusive documentary called Unique Iceland, which will introduce you to some of the country’s highlights for visitors. We’re so proud of our volcanoes, glaciers and other natural wonders, that we’ve even named our aircraft after them. After all, Iceland is famous for its spectacular landscapes. Each one bears the moniker of an Icelandic attraction, including the

Icelandair’s travel experience introduces you to our special country. famously unpronounceable Eyjafjallajökull volcano—which actually doubles as a glacier—Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier, Látrabjarg, Europe’s largest bird cliff, and now also Þingvellir, the rift valley where our parliament was founded in 930 AD. At the risk of being immodest, we think our water is the best tasting water in the world. Try it for yourself on this flight. We serve refreshing Icelandic Glacial water throughout the trip. On some lucky aircraft you’ll find mood lighting, like on Vatnajökull: The blue LED lighting in the cabin creates the illusion of being inside an ice cave, while on Hekla Aurora it feels as if you’re watching the northern lights dancing in the Icelandic winter sky. We hope you enjoy your flight with us.

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MY TOWN:

WHILE THE RAIN SANG AND MY ROOTS CALLED OUT TO ME Author Kristín Ómarsdóttir writes about her hometown Hafnarfjörður.

TRANSLATED BY SARAH BROWNSBERGER. PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR BY ART BICKNICK / THE REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE. OTHER PHOTOS COURTESY OF VISIT HAFNARFJÖRÐUR.

50 / My Town

Hail pelts the lawn, white dots, green lines, then the cloudburst ends and hailstones that landed on trees and roofs slow the rhythm and prolong the murmuring. In spring, composers go out walking to absorb the trees’ song to use in unwritten music. The moment the leaves spurt from the buds, a song begins that lasts until autumn. The roses sing until they wither. If you watch a roomful of people waiting for a lecture to begin, the air sparkles with a many-voiced clamor that sounds like ardent strings; the words’ meaning doesn’t matter, the meaning emerges as people gather and the words—twinkle—for people twinkle as people gather. Likewise, trees twinkle back and forth, branches draw near, lean away, draw near. While a person sits under a tree, the tree observes her, calmly/slyly.

from the hollow were longer than we were. Now automotive shops and service stations stand where once there was a hollow full of trash.

The other day I wound up in an industrial zone in the town of my youth, Hafnarfjörður, near the town line. I don’t know the bus routes, highways appall me, I rushed to where women with baby carriages were heading across, and scuttled in their wake as the green man blinked; thus I embarked on an adventure that I didn’t know I had coming. Spring was still new.

The swans on the pond didn’t glance up: You, here. Ripples in a corrugated-iron roof: Oh, you, here. Gable windows danced without moving: You, here, and the distant raindrops accompanied the song. Outside the old library stood new motorcycles. Once two women worked here, one a hippie, the other one’s wig straight out of a movie. You, here—the girl who delivered the communist paper and moved up the clock, said a litter bin on a lamp pole, and the silence repeated it, the diminutive rain broadcast it.

Through another industrial zone I walked. Here, aged 13, in the summer youth work crew, I picked up trash and boards from a hollow, supervised by a boss who wore no watch. I was timekeeper for the group and moved the clock up daily, time crumbled away, 10 minutes, 15, until I had moved the clock up two hours and work was over at two. But I didn’t get scolded because Matthildur (the boss) was the daughter of Hanna Kjeld, home ec teacher at the Flensborg school. We could hardly budge the wheelbarrows; the boards we pulled

From that zone I walked on into a development of one-, two-, and three-family houses where I had often pushed wheelbarrowsful of trash or plants, bicycled, hung out with girls in the backseat of a Japanese car on the main drag. Now the calm song of slender raindrops caught my attention, along with a delicate murmur. A streetlight pointed: Bike, behind that tree. A pink hula hoop below a window whispered: See me. A ball in the window of the next house said hi, and the gable sang: See how nicely they painted the house while you were gone.

Embrace is another word for the peace that enveloped me without constraining me, for embraces can constrain. Hi there, you, the words—sparkled—in the air. A road sign: See me, I’m here too. A tree: See me, I’m here too. Old computer by three garbage bins: Here I am too. The three garbage bins: We too, the open window above: I too. The computer watched as I walked away,

Young man pushing a pram: Taking pictures of me is forbidden. Trash bulging from a bin: See me. On the pavement, trash that didn’t fit in the bin: Hi. The stairs up into the elves’ land were freshly painted. Raindrops: Murmur, murmur, calm quiet murmur/song. Peeling paint on a gable: We have nothing to hide. New balcony on the back of the building that once housed the magistrate: We are the ruins of your time. Distant rain: We know you, you delivered the communist paper.

Snapshots from Hafnarfjörður. Photos by Ólafur Már Svavarsson (top) and Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson.

the window shut as I vanished around the corner. In the next yard an upside-down wheelbarrow muttered: I never left. The bikes next door offered me a lift. The raindrops: We were here and will never leave. Traffic cone by a phone box: We don’t blame you for having left. Orange extension cord dangling from a window: See me.

High in the sky above the bus station two gulls harried a raven, pecked it, the raven swiveled in mid-flight, dropped, and rose, the gulls close behind, pecking; it swiveled, dropped, and rose as the bus left the station. The surroundings in Reykjavík don’t sing, they’re dead-silent, I thought, heading there, on the bus. In my old town I have a hiding place; I go there, sit down, and let the trees X-ray me. You can read about Waitress in Fall, collection of poetry by Kristín Ómarsdóttir, on page 12.

Trampoline: See me. Icelandair Stopover / 51

DO YOU FLY REGULARLY WITH ICELANDAIR? Our Frequent Flyer Program, Icelandair Saga Club, has multiple benefits for all members as well as special offers and benefits for our most frequent flyers who have acquired Saga Silver and Saga Gold status.

Saga Gold and Saga Silver benefits:

Members can earn from 850 to 7,200 Tier Points for each leg with Icelandair and need 40,000 Tier Points to become a Saga Silver member and 80,000 Tier Points to become a Saga Gold member.

SAGA SILVER

SAGA GOLD

One upgrade a year

Upgrade every time you fly*

Business class check-in

Lounge access

Excess baggage

Fast Track through Security

Spouse Card available

Excess baggage

Limousine service

Priority on waiting lists

Complimentary Spouse Card n

Limousine service

Priority on waiting lists

Parking at KeflavĂk Airport

Complimentary Wi-Fi on board n

n Icelandair Golfers membership

* To the next cabin when space available

IS FLYING MAKING YOU FAMISHED?

SAGA SHOP KITCHEN No problem. Our new Economy menu has never been more appetizing and varied. Just fish it out of the seat pocket in front of you and order what your heart desires.

Chicken Caesar salad sandwich Grilled chicken, romaine lettuce, baked tomatoes, avocado and Caesar dressing with parmesan cheese. Turkey pretzel triangle Honey-roasted turkey, barbecue mayonnaise, fresh salad and red bell peppers in a freshly baked crispy butter pretzel triangle.

Tapas snack box Serrano ham, mini fuet, grissini, bruschetta dip and matured Iberico cheese. Tapas snack box + olives + wine.

Hamburger Factory burger duet Two juicy hamburgers with cheese and sauce from the Icelandic Hamburger Factory. Hamburgers + Pringles + beer.

We welcome your feedback on the dining experience on board. Please drop us a line at kitchen@icelandair.is with any comments. Verði þér að góðu! Bon appétit! Icelandair Stopover / 53

54 / Photo Essay

BY KAREN CARMICHAEL. PHOTOS BY REBECCA STUMPF AND ROSS WEINBERG.

GRAND COUNTRY PARTY Celebrating the ancient tradition of Iceland’s réttir. Sheep are integral to Iceland: Some 800,000 roam the country, more than twice the human population, and they’ve sustained the island’s inhabitants for centuries. Best of all, they’re almost entirely free range. After lambing time in May, farmers turn their flocks loose to graze on the lush highland grasses and berries of Iceland’s interior. September brings réttir—the nationwide roundup where people on foot, ATVs or Icelandic horses retrieve their stock from the mountains and valleys, aided by trusty sheepdogs. The grueling endeavor sometimes requires days in the saddle, and entire communities turn out in support. The ancient tradition is followed by sorting at réttir, circular pens with radiating sections where farmers separate their herds. It’s a grand country party, where friends, family and neighbors come together to play music, picnic outdoors and help each other marshal their sheep. Tourists are welcome to join in on the fun. Here, these images capture iconic moments of réttir in Skagafjörður, North Iceland.

A bird’s-eye view of Stafnsrétt reveals how the farmers’ sections radiate like spokes on a wheel. Photo by Ross Weinberg. Icelandair Stopover / 55

At Mælifellsrétt, sheep wait patiently beneath a blustery September sky. Photo by Ross Weinberg.

Locals wade into the rétt’s tightly packed ring to find their animals, identified by earmarks. Photo by Rebecca Stumpf. 56 / Photo Essay

Riders such as Guðmundur Óskar Guðmundsson of Akureyri join the réttir every year to assist farming friends. Photo by Rebecca Stumpf.

Children delight in the bustling excitement of the sorting. Photo by Rebecca Stumpf.

The réttir are a group effort, with dozens of people on foot, horseback and in support vehicles working together during each roundup to herd thousands of sheep. Photo by Rebecca Stumpf.

Sheep don’t go quietly—it takes strength and skill to handle them. Photo by Ross Weinberg. Icelandair Stopover / 57

In the valley of Mælifellsdalur, riders on Icelandic horses cross streams and climb steep hillsides to collect far-ranging sheep. Photo by Rebecca Stumpf.

Sorting complete, members of Starrastaðir farm guide their flock home. Photo by Ross Weinberg. 58 / Photo Essay

Stafnsrétt, located in the valley of Svartárdalur, is a prime example of a traditional rétt for sorting livestock. Photo by Ross Weinberg.

Icelandair Stopover / 59

PHOTOS BY THE AUTHOR.

#MYSTOPOVER:

EIDER ISLAND An old photo of Hrísey. The car comes to a stop after a five-hour drive from Keflavík Airport. As I open my eyes, I see Kristján Pétur Sæmundsson pointing to the end of a dock, where his father Sæmundur Sæmundsson is waiting in the family boat. Hrísey island, which is where we’re headed, sits in the middle of Eyjafjörður fjord in North Iceland and can be reached by ferry from Árskógssandur in about 15 minutes. After loading a dozen bags of groceries, several cases of beer, luggage and camera equipment, we shove off the dock and head towards Hrísey. I’m still waking up as I chat with Sæmundur about the history of the island and he points to where he spotted a humpback whale the day before. His family owns the northern two-thirds of the island, a nature reserve for common eider ducks. Kristján’s grandfather, Sæmundur Stefánsson, purchased the land in 1959 with the intent to create the ideal environment for eider ducks to nest. At the time, the island was bare, unmaintained and open for

For over 60 years the same family has gathered eiderdown on Hrísey island in North Iceland. Last year, Dylan Johnston was invited to join them. nearby livestock to graze, yielding just 2 lb (1 kg) of eiderdown in the first year. A valuable resource, eiderdown is used as padding for duvets, jackets and more. Over the decades, Sæmundur Sr. and his wife Úlla Bettý Knútsdóttir made the island better suited for eider nesting by creating 12 ponds and planting 80,000 trees. The ponds are a resting place and a great area to nest, while the trees shelter the ducks from their few predators and help block the high winds that come down from the North Pole. Besides the dirt road and two houses, the family’s entire portion of Hrísey is a wild nesting environment for eiders. We unload the boat and jump into a truck with tires taller than my legs and cruise the town, which takes all of one minute. We pull up to an unlocked gate, push it open and are now in the reserve. Around a mile down the dirt road (the island is 4.7 mi / 7.6 km at its longest) we pull up to Kristján’s grandmother’s house, where his brothers, aunt and uncle are waiting for us. Near the end of June, the whole family gathers in Hrísey to help harvest, sort and sell the eiderdown for their grandmother. The harvest is early this year (2017) and they’ve already gone through much of the island, but have waited for us to help in the gathering. After 10 hours of travel my legs are shaky, but we push through tall bushes and hike across the uneven terrain. I’m instantly in awe looking across the fjord to the mountains on either side and straight north where the only thing blocking my view of the Arctic is a small orange lighthouse.

Picking eiderdown from nests. 60 / #MyStopover

The eiders naturally pick this island to nest because of its lack of predators and abundance of space, and they return year after year. The female eiders find a suitable area typically near bushes or in a small crevice to build their nest away from seagulls and other birds of prey that feast

on eider eggs and ducklings. The females pluck the feathers from their chest and build their nest to lay the eggs. Once the eggs have been laid, they stay there to incubate and protect them for several weeks, only briefly leaving to drink. Eiders tend to hatch around the same time every year, in mid-to-late June, so at the start of the month Sæmundur walks the island marking nesting areas with red and yellow stakes in order to more easily find the nests after the eggs have hatched. Also, they typically nest in similar areas to previous years, and it’s theorized that eiders that nest near each other are related. Once the eggs hatch the nest is no longer needed and the family spends several days walking up and down the island collecting every empty nest by hand. At this point in the year most ducklings have hatched and the eider ducks have left their nests. If unhatched eggs are present, they will carefully remove the eggs, collect the down, and build a new nest out of hay, which is a suitable insulation for the eggs until they hatch. Everything is done by hand, ensuring no animals are harmed or ever in danger while collecting eider. After circling the north end of Hrísey several times over the week, the family cleans and dries the collected down and prepares it to be sold. This family has been collecting eiderdown for over 60 years, and more recently Kristján and his girlfriend Birta Ísólfsdóttir have been purchasing the down from his grandmother to use in jackets designed by Birta for their company, S. Stefánsson & Co. Collecting eiderdown is a worldwide tradition spanning 1,000 years and it is most often used in luxury apparel due to its light weight and incredible insulation. The down Kristján and his family gather annually accounts for around 1% of the world’s down.

Main photo: The down must be cleaned and dried before it is sold. From left: An eider duck nest; The familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home on HrĂsey; The nesting areas are marked with stakes.

A THOUSAND WORDS Thanks to Instagram, Facebook and Twitter, you can share your travel experience with the world. Check out this selection of recent images from our passengers who tagged their pictures with the #MyStopover tag. Pretty great, right? In upcoming issues, we will feature the best pics by users who include the #MyStopover tag. Happy snapping! Please note that by using the #MyStopover hashtag, you are granting us permission to use your image in our magazine or on our social media channels.

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Dragon or dinosaur? I bozu_shutterbugger I Donny Patel

Minke whale (Balaenoptera acutorostrata). I stealthchip I Alexander Hufert

Summer Hallgrimskirkja. I jelonkowate I Monika WĹ&#x201A;odarczyk 32 starts like this! I ojec I Oleg Kabakchiev

After 6 hours of not sleeping, Olli fell asleep deeply in the last hour of the flight. Iceland here we go!! I oliverhiller I Oliver Hiller View from my @icelandair plane over Chicago. I brit_in_wisconsin I Matthew Rattcliff

62 / Instagram

Iceland, you have tested us like no other country has done before. We have felt winds like we have never felt before, your rain has hit our faces so hard that it stung, and yet you continue to lure us back out each day because we can’t miss a single opportunity to see what you have to offer. It isn’t the weather we hoped for, but we accept it as our authentic Icelandic experience. Besides, we don’t scare easily. I familycantravel I Celine Brewer

But what do you “really” do when it walks up and nuzzles you? Ya, you pet it. I mkrasser2 I Marshall Krasser

Beautiful basalt columns at Reynisfjara beach. I thebackbutton I Kanika Mediratta

Icelandic doors. I emilypainesmith I Emily Paine Smith

I’ve been a bit inactive lately, but I’ll try to keep up!* Here for the Icelandics! I belgianflyah I Giovanni

Snorkeling in Thingvellir National Park in the Silfra fissure, where the north American and Eurasian tectonic plates come together. I kristinasonderkjaerr I Kristina Sønderkjær Jensen

This was a special one! Seljalandsfoss is one of my favorite waterfalls. The special fact of Seljalandsfoss is that you can walk behind him. I promise you, you will get wet. But it is really worth it! I photosofaredhead I Lea Kunz

And more flowers on the ashes. I halfbeever I Natalija Jakunina

Icelandair Stopover / 63

A peaceful oasis with views of the urban jungle.

OUR DESTINATIONS:

Inside a bell tent.

NEW YURT CITY

Glamping in the middle of New York.

Most New Yorkers would agree that their forefathers made terrible use of the city’s natural geography when laying down its gridiron. Spread across a series of islands where the Atlantic narrows into a set of parallel rivers, the Big Apple is more like a scatter of slices tenuously tied together by an infrequent tunnel or bridge. Only in the last few years did each of the five boroughs realize the development potential along their shores rather than carving up urban canyons like Central Park. Green spaces have thusly grown in, and a new treasure has been recently reclaimed right in the heart of the city along its waterfront. A rock in the harbor where Manhattan, Brooklyn and Staten Island converge like battleships, Governor’s Island is a new point of interest on most locals’ mental map, as it was snagged by the United States Coast Guard and largely off limits to the public for the lion’s share of the city’s history. Around a decade ago, the National Park Service opened the island’s 120plus acres to public picnickers, and this summer, for the first time, visitors will be able to spend the night snuggling up with 1,500-thread-count linens in chic safari-style tents.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY BRANDON PRESSER. 64 / Travel

The new glamping (or “glamorous camping”) project is the brainchild of Collective Retreats, a vacationing concept buoyed by an infusion of venture capitalist funds that creates pop-up five-star accommodation on parcels of undeveloped land. Previous seasonal sites have included initiatives in rural Montana and the Hudson Valley, just a couple of hours’ drive north of New York City.

For the Governor’s Island project, tents are grouped into two pods with a generous amount of green space in the middle, where guests can greet the day with morning yoga and play lawn games throughout the afternoon. In the evening, grab a DIY barbecue kit, or opt for the three-course “ferry to flame” menu; a nod to New York’s eclectic dining scene with fusion-Asian and Italian selections. Leave room for a second dessert and roast s’mores over the communal fire pit as the sun sets behind the Statue of Liberty. Day visitors can delight in a short-stay getaway as well. The on-site restaurant is public-facing, and the Friday evening ferry service now runs until 10 pm. But at 9:45 pm, when it’s time to head pier, you may have a hard time tearing yourself away from the well-articulated summer camp vibe. Looks like the “city that never sleeps” finally has its place to rest and relax. Governor’s Island is an eight-minute ferry ride from Lower Manhattan’s terminal, or a five-minute journey from the port in Brooklyn Bridge Park. Collective Retreat’s campus is a short 10-minute walk from the pier, on the western side of the island. Prices range from USD 125 to USD 700. A two-night minimum is required for weekending guests. The experience is open from June through the end of October. Icelandair flies to New York daily.

ísafjörður

akureyri

brjánslækur flatey

egilsstaðir

stykkishólmur

höfn reykjavík

landeyjahöfn vestmannaeyjar

vík

NATURE PARADISE

IN BREIDAFJORDUR AND VESTMANNAEYJAR ICELAND'S LARGEST AND SMALLEST INHABITED ISLANDS.

seatours.is

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BY KIM KAUFMANN AND CAROLYN BAIN. PHOTOS BY JASON LOUCAS.

OUR DESTINATIONS:

COPENHAGEN’S RESTAURANT BABY BOOM For nearly a decade, Copenhagen has been synonymous with food worth traveling for. In 2010 the city’s culinary icon Noma was first awarded the title of the world’s best restaurant (it won the award a further three times), which sparked an influx of foodies in search of gastronomic bliss. It also inspired the blossoming of a galaxy of Michelin-starred restaurants that continue to elevate the city’s cuisine to new heights. Recently, another delicious food trend has emerged in Copenhagen. It’s been called the baby boom—the opening of baby-brother restaurants by a series of Michelin-recognized chefs looking for a new creative outlet in the form of a more playful, relaxed take on dining. The best part? These restaurants serve up Michelin-level menus at approachable prices, which means you can break bread in style without breaking the bank. Pony Pony is the baby brother of the acclaimed Kadeau restaurant, with Michelin-starred locations in both Copenhagen and the blissful Baltic island of Bornholm. Pony offers adventurous dishes at a friendly price based on what’s local and in season.

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If you choose your travel destinations based on food, Copenhagen may already be on your itinerary. If it isn’t, these babybrother restaurants could give you reason to reconsider.

Choose from the à la carte offerings or dig in to the fourcourse menu, the “Pony Kick.” And enjoy. No. 2 The little brother of renowned AOC, No. 2 is a Nordic bistro with international perspective and a focus on seafood, all in a comfortable, laid-back atmosphere. Big windows give you a view of the Black Diamond (home to the Royal Library) and surrounding harbor district, while a covered patio invites al fresco dining. Uformel The edgy younger brother to Formel B, Uformel offers an accessibly priced pick-and-mix menu. And true to its name, Uformel (or “informal”) keeps the ambiance cool and approachable but doesn’t forego style. Dishes change by the season, but creativity is a constant. And a sustainable approach only adds to the feelgood vibe. Chai Wong Little brother to Kiin Kiin, one of Europe’s best Thai restaurants, Chai Wong serves an innovative and refined menu they call Asian-crossover. Comfy dining beds mean you can truly kick off your shoes and relax, while reasonable

108’s elegant interior. prices mean you’ll still feel just as comfortable when the bill arrives. 108 The sibling of world-famous Noma, 108 offers New Nordic cuisine at a more moderate price, with ingredients sourced from far and wide. The chic setting is known for using traditional cooking methods to create adventurous tasting menus and à la carte options, with dishes often presented by the chefs themselves. It all adds up to a top-notch experience well within reach. Restaurant Barr You can’t deny the family connections—Restaurant Barr

opened in the old Noma space after big brother moved out. Noma’s master, Rene Redzepi, is involved at Barr, and the focus is a clever one: The eating and drinking traditions of the North and Baltic Seas. That’s “cold-country cooking” accompanied by a stellar beer selection, plus plenty of stylish Danish hygge (“coziness”) to keep things warm and welcoming. Icelandair flies to Copenhagen daily. Traveling from North America, you have the opportunity to add a stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare.

A selection of dishes from 108.

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STOPOVER ICELAND: OUR TOP PICKS Grímsey Church. Photo: Friðþjófur Helgason / Visit Akureyri.

BY SARAH DEARNE.

With so much you can pack into an Icelandair Stopover, the options can feel overwhelming. So, we keep it simple: Four new themes and four fresh suggestions every issue. Take your pick.

EXPLORATION:

LEISURE:

Islands Summer is the perfect time to hop on a ferry and explore some of Iceland’s beautiful islands. One of the most popular to visit is Heimaey (“home island”), the largest and only populated island in the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago. It’s most famous for its puffins and still-simmering volcano, but visitors will also enjoy its museums, excellent pool, whale watching tours and friendly town center.

Golf Golf is hugely popular in Iceland, and there are over 60 golf courses dotted around the country. Many are set amidst beautiful landscapes, and during summer the long hours of daylight mean you can play well into the night.

Located along the northwestern coast, the islands of Breiðafjörður bay are often said to be uncountable, but the more prosaic among us will tell you there are 3,009. The largest is Flatey (“flat island”), which is home to a handful of humans, a few lazy sheep and around 30 species of birds. With a cluster of colorful houses and no cars in sight, a visit here feels like stepping into an idyllic past. Other islands worth exploring include Drangey, a birdwatcher’s paradise in the North; and Grímsey, the only populated area of Iceland within the Arctic Circle. And if you’re in Reykjavík, take the 5-minute ferry ride to Viðey, where you can enjoy a relaxing stroll around the island followed by coffee and waffles at the historic Viðey House. Bjarnarey in Vestmannaeyjar. Photo: Ursula Drake.

If you’re looking for a scenic course close to the capital, try Keilir Golf Club in Hafnarfjörður, where the front nine are nestled in the lava fields and the back nine offer ocean views spanning all the way to Snæfellnes. The Oddur, Grafarholt and Brautarholt courses in the greater Reykjavík area are similarly gorgeous. Other spectacular courses around the country include the Geysir Golf Course in South Iceland, where you can play nine holes right next to Iceland’s most famous geysers, and Vestmannaeyjar Golf Club on Heimaey island, where you can play 18 holes in a volcanic valley with breathtaking views of the archipelago. And if you’re in Akureyri around the solstice, head to Akureyri Golf Club for the annual Arctic Open Golf Championship, where golfers from Iceland and abroad compete under the glow of the midnight sun. Keilir Golf Club. Photo: Jacob Sjoman / golficeland.org.

The view from Vestmannaeyjar Golf Club. Photo: Sarah Dearne. Colorful houses on Flatey. Photo: Ágúst Atlason / Visit Westfjords.

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Petra Sveinsdóttir (1922–2012) in her home, which is now a museum. Photo: steinapetra.is.

On Austari Jökulsá. All rafting photos courtesy of Viking Rafting Iceland / vikingrafting.is.

CULTURE:

ADVENTURE:

Museums Iceland is known for its natural beauty, but the country is equally rich in history and culture, as can be seen from its many interesting museums.

River Rafting If you’re after a bump of adrenaline, book a river rafting tour in one of Iceland’s glacial rivers.

On a sunny afternoon in the capital, hop on the bus to Árbær Open Air Museum, where you can explore old Icelandic houses guided by locals in traditional dress. Alternatively, stroll down to Reykjavík harbor to check out the Maritime Museum’s brand new permanent exhibition, Fish & Folk. Kids and kids at heart will also enjoy a romp around the Coast Guard Ship Óðinn, which is docked nearby. Summer is also the best time to check out the country’s smaller and quirkier museums, not least because many of them are closed in winter. One of the most charming is Petra’s Stone Collection in Stöðvarfjörður, East Iceland, while the Samúel Jónsson Art Museum in the Westfjords is simultaneously surreal and endearing. The Westfjords are also where you’ll find the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft, home of the notorious necropants, which are every inch as ghoulish as they sound.

At Árbær Open Air Museum. Photo: Javier Ballester.

If you’re based in the capital you’ll probably want to head to Hvítá (“white river”), which runs through Brúarhlöð canyon, close to the Golden Circle. Its rapids are exciting yet beginner-friendly, and relatively calm tracts allow you to take in the natural beauty of the hyaloclastite cliffs. There are also two excellent rafting rivers in the North: Vestari Jökulsá (West Glacial River) and its rowdier sibling, Austari Jökulsá (East Glacial River), which lies adjacent. If you’re after heart-thumping whitewater action, Austari Jökulsá is the place to go. This so-called “Beast of the East” is relentlessly exciting, with turbulent waters, steep drops, and dramatic cliffs towering overhead. Vestari Jökulsá is more akin to Hvítá, with fun but manageable currents that are perfect for family trips. It’s also flanked with cliffs, and you’ll see steaming riverside hot springs along the way. No experience is needed to take a river rafting tour, but you’ll need to be 18 or over and fit to take on Austari Jökulsá.

Rafting in the beautiful scenery of Skagafjörður.

Arnafjörður monsters at the Sea Monster Museum in Bíldudalur. Photo: skrimsli.is.

A playful pause between the rapids of Austari Jökulsá. Icelandair Stopover / 69

CHILDREN’S CORNER:

ADVENTURE IN THE WESTMAN ISLANDS The Icelandic animals from Treasure Iceland are best buddies. One of the things they love most is traveling to new places in Iceland. This time Katla the puffin is taking them to her home in Vestmannaeyjar—the Westman Islands.

It was a lovely sunny spring day and the five friends were preparing for their trip. “We’re lucky the weather’s so good,” Katla told them. “Sailing to the islands is impossible in bad weather!” Her friends thought this sounded very exciting—all except Mosi the ram, who thought staying home would be safer. But his friends soon convinced him it was going to be an adventure he wouldn’t want to miss. “Oh well, as long as my wool doesn’t get wet,” he said, and off they went. The friends were soon on board the Westman Islands ferry. Halfway there, poor Freyja the horse got a little seasick. But all discomfort was forgotten as soon as they saw the islands rising from the ocean. How beautiful they were! And all those seabirds soaring around the cliffs! Flóki, being a raven and always up for a chat, immediately took to the skies to ask the feathered locals for the latest gossip. “Get back down here you chatterbox!” Katla laughed. “Or you’ll miss the boat!” Suddenly, the cliffs seemed to magically open up and a lovely little harbor town full of colorful houses came into view. Skotta the sheepdog got really excited and started barking. “I wonder if there are any sheep here that I can herd!” Mosi looked annoyed. “Most likely just puffins for you to herd,” he said. “There are more than 10 million puffins on these islands—it’s the largest puffin colony in the world.”

BY SIGRÍÐUR ÁSTA ÁRNADÓTTIR. ILLUSTRATIONS BY KIDZINFLIGH.

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Katla, hatched and raised in the Westman Islands, proved to be an excellent guide. She showed them the town and told them that about 45 years ago, a volcano had erupted and glowing lava had flowed over a part of the houses. Fortunately, all ships had been in harbor and took the people to safety. Her friends could hardly believe this

shocking story but there was no mistake: A thick lava field could be seen right in the middle of the town. Freyja got tears in her eyes thinking of people’s homes buried underneath it. The atmosphere brightened as the gang entered Katla’s puffin colony, bustling with life. Flóki and Skotta of course felt right at home where things were happening and made fast friends with the amiable puffins. “The noise!” Mosi grumbled. “But at least my wool still is dry.” Katla showed them a cozy puffin hole, which is where the puffins lay their single egg and raise their chick. “Hullo!” A friendly puffin stuck his head out and soon afterwards the head of a cute little puffin chick followed. “Want to come in?” Flóki and Katla eagerly accepted. But the others were just too big! The chick, introducing herself as Pysja, offered to show the larger animals something fun instead. Skotta, Mosi and Freyja followed her to a cliff where some local children were dangling from ropes, kicking their feet against the cliff and having a great time. “They call it sprang and it’s a special Westman Islands game,” Pysja told them. “The kids of the Island are great friends to us puffin chicks. If we get lost on our way to the shore to catch fish, they find us and bring us there safely.” After an exciting day in the Westman Islands, the five friends sailed back home. This had been a day they’d never forget.

If you want to play with the animals of Treasure Iceland, check out our on-board kids’ material. If you didn’t get it already, just ask the friendly flight attendant.

Icelandair Stopover / 71

WE MAKE A POINT OF REWARDING CUSTOMERS FOR LOYALTY Did you know that members of Icelandair Saga Club earn Saga Points for all Icelandair flights, for their purchases on board and with our partners around the world? These little points pack a lot of punch.

Joining is easy – you can use our onboard Wi-Fi on your mobile device or computer and join right now. It is free to visit icelandair.com

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By joining Icelandair Saga Club you can: Book flights with your Saga Points

Buy products and refreshments on board with your Points

Acquire Saga Silver or Saga Gold status with increased benefits by flying regularly with Icelandair

Earn Saga Points through Booking.com and Rentalcars.com

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COMPILED BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR.

ICELANDAIR @WORK

While reinventing its home base, Icelandair has set its sights on a faraway place.

From Düsseldorf. READY FOR SOME RHINELAND ROAMING? Eyeing an opportunity in Air Berlin’s disappearance from the market—or “Des einen Tod ist des anderen Brot,” as the Germans would say—Icelandair announced in May direct flights between Keflavík and Düsseldorf to commence on October 25. Düsseldorf will be Icelandair’s sixth new destination in 2018, in addition to Dublin, Ireland, and five cities in the US: Baltimore, Cleveland, Dallas, Kansas City and San Francisco. A great mix of business-meets-pleasure, Düsseldorf is prosperous and creative, fashion-forward and up for a party. Art is embraced, beer is celebrated, and riverside rambles have rarely looked so appealing. Düsseldorf is the perfect base for Rhineland roaming, Carnival capers and super-charged shopping. With the new route, Icelandair aims to strengthen its trans-Atlantic service, while opening up new travel opportunities for Icelanders in Germany and making Iceland more appealing for German travelers. Icelandair already flies to four other destinations in Germany: Berlin, Hamburg, Munich and Frankfurt. STRETCH YOUR LEGS! Icelandair recently announced five new classes: Economy Light, Economy Standard, Economy Flex, Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex—each designed to meet the needs of different passengers. In April, yet another novelty was introduced: More Legroom, enabling all Economy passengers to use either Saga Points or money to buy extra legroom for added comfort. Icelandair already offers an impressive standard seating pitch in Economy of 31–32 in, while other airlines have as few as 29 in as standard. Read more about the new classes on page 82. ICELANDAIR GOES COMMUNAL Icelandair’s headquarters in Reykjavík are currently undergoing a revamp. Following the lead of the creative and tech industries, Icelandair is adapting an open communal office space without hierarchy and fixed desks to make it easier for people of different levels and departments to work together. The goal is to enhance cooperation, productivity, creativity and work satisfaction. 74 / News

From India.

CONQUERING A NEW CONTINENT

Icelandair will take on a whole new continent and launch direct flights to India in the autumn of 2019. Icelandair President and CEO Björgólfur Jóhannsson announced the ambitious addition to the airline’s route map in May. However, it has not yet been revealed which city in India will be the airline’s first destination in Asia. Icelandair’s flights to India will open up new and exciting opportunities for travelers. For example, the travel time from New York to New Delhi with a stopover in Iceland would be around 17 hours. Meanwhile, on May 25, Icelandair celebrated its inaugural flight to Kansas City, one of its five new destinations in the US. By the end of 2018, the airline will have reached 23 destinations in North America—only one other airline covers more destinations on the continent. Icelandair also offers flights to 25 destinations in Europe—26 including Iceland—and a stopover in Iceland at no extra charge.

ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TIME FOR CHARM CITY Baltimore is a charismatic city by Chesapeake Bay, and is one of the oldest cities in the US. Adore the historic buildings and ships while you stroll around the harbor area, which is teeming with coffee shops, restaurants and antique stores.

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Iceland’s uniquely central location THE ICELANDAIR between Europe and North America the key to Icelandair’s hub-andROUTE NETWORK isspoke network, which our efficient, fleet of Boeing 737 MAX, AND AIRCRAFT FLEET economical 757 and 767 aircraft is perfectly suited to serve.

ANCHORAGE

HELSINKI VANCOUVER SEATTLE

STOCKHOLM EDMONTON

PORTLAND

SAN FRANCISCO ICELAND

OSLO GOTHENBURG BERGEN COPENHAGEN BILLUND BERLIN HAMBURG DUSSELDORF FRANKFURT AMSTERDAM MUNICH GLASGOW BRUSSELS ZURICH MANCHESTER MILAN DUBLIN LONDON PARIS GENEVA HEATHROW & GATWICK

DENVER MINNEAPOLIS / ST. PAUL

MADRID CHICAGO TORONTO KANSAS CITY CLEVELAND DALLAS

MONTREAL

BALTIMORE HALIFAX BOSTON WASHINGTON D.C. PHILADELPHIA NEW YORK JFK & NEWARK

TAMPA

76 / Route Map and Fleet

ORLANDO

THE NAMES OF OUR AIRCRAFT

Each of our aircraft is named after an Icelandic volcano, glacier or other natural wonder. Passengers boarding the plane can see a sign with an illustration of the natural wonder in question, explaining its name and giving some basic information about it. BLÁFJALL | TF-FIK | BLAU-fyatl | A table mountain in North Iceland. From its flat top it offers climbers an astounding view over one of the most beautiful creations of Mother Nature, Lake Mývatn.

JÖKULSÁRLÓN* | TF-ICE | YUH-kuls-aur-loan | Jökulsárlón is a picturesque glacial lagoon in southeast Iceland. Floating on its blue surface are magnificent icebergs from Vatnajökull, the largest glacier in Europe.

DYNGJUFJÖLL | TF-ISS | DEENG-iu-fiudl | Volcanic highland massif in North Iceland. The famous Askja caldera, a popular tourist destination, is situated in Dyngjufjöll.

KATLA | TF-FIV | KAT-la | Volcano beneath the ice sheet of the South Iceland glacier Mýrdalsjökull. The last eruption of Katla was in 1918.

DYRHÓLAEY | TF-ICU | DIHR-hoal-a-ay | This picturesque 120-m-high promontory on the south coast of Iceland sports a hole large enough for ships to sail through on a calm day. Its name translates to “door hill island”.

KEILIR | TF-ISJ | KAY-leer | Cone-shaped volcano that was created subglacially and is located on the Reykjanes Peninsula to the south of Reykjavík, from where it can be viewed as a well-known landmark. It rises to 1,243 ft (379 m) and consists primarily of hyaloclastite and pillow lavas.

EIRÍKSJÖKULL | TF-ISZ | AY-reeks-yuh-kutl | According to legend, an outlaw named Eiríkur escaped from his pursuers by cartwheeling to the top of the highest mountain in West Iceland. This volcano, formed by subglacial activity, was later named in his honor.

KETILDYNGJA | TF-ISR | KETTIL-deengja | This is a shield volcano southeast of the famous Lake Mývatn, formed as a result of an eruption in Ketildyngja about 3,800 years ago.

ELDBORG | TF-FIN | ELD-borg | The name of an extinct volcanic crater in the west of Iceland, one of the country’s most beautifully formed. ELDFELL | TF-ISK | ELD-fetl | On Heimaey, one of the Westman I slands, is a volcanic cone formed during a surprise 1973 eruption not far from the centre of one of the most important fishing villages in Iceland. No one was hurt. ELDGJÁ | TF-ISP | ELD-giau | The largest volcanic fissure in the world, 25 mi (40 km) long. Into it plunges the spectacular Ófærufoss waterfall, which until 1993 had a natural stone bridge extending over it. The bridge broke in a glacial flood. EYJAFJALLAJÖKULL | TF-FII | AY-ya-fyat-la-yuh-kutl (good luck!) | A relatively small ice cap in South Iceland, just west of the much larger Mýrdalsjökull glacier. Eyjafjallajökull covers the caldera of a volcano with a summit elevation of 5,466 ft (1,666 m). The most recent eruption in Eyjafjallajökull was in April 2010. GRÁBRÓK | TF-ISV | GRAU-broke | A crater that was formed in a fissure eruption in West Iceland less than 3,000 years ago. Children love running up to the top of this friendly volcano, which stands just a few meters from the road. GRÍMSVÖTN | TF-FIS | GREEMZ-vutn | A volcano and a series of subglacial lakes in southeast Iceland on the Vatnajökull glacier. Grímsvötn has one of the highest eruption frequencies in Iceland; the last was in May 2011. GULLBORG | TF-ISW | GUTL-borg | Means the “golden fortress” and refers to the beautiful regular round shape of this extinct crater in West Iceland. HEKLA AURORA | TF-FIU | HEK-la au-RO-ra | Iceland’s most famous volcano, which last erupted in 2000. The aircraft was renamed Hekla Aurora in 2014 and repainted in northern lights livery for our #MyStopover campaign.

KRAFLA | TF-FIO | KRAB-la | Caldera about 6 mi (10 km) in diameter and is in a 56-mi (90-km) fissure zone, in the north of Iceland in the Mývatn region. Krafla’s highest peak reaches 818 m. There have been 29 reported eruptions in recorded history, the last of which occurred between 1975 and 1984. LAKI | TF-ISF | LAH-kih | Laki is the name of a volcanic fissure and mountain in southern Iceland. The largest lava eruption in recorded history began here on June 8, 1783. LÁTRABJARG | TF-ICY | LAU-tra-byarg | Látrabjarg is the westernmost point in Iceland and is Europe’s largest bird cliff. This 14-km-long and 440-m-high cape is home to millions of birds, including puffins and razorbills. MAGNI | TF-FIC | MAG-nih | Name of one of the two craters that were tailormade for tourists in the first stage of the Eyjafjallajökull eruption in March 2010. SKJALDBREIÐUR | TF-LLX | SKYALD-bray-ther | An extinct shield volcano in the vicinity of Þingvellir, the South Iceland site of the old Icelandic parliament, or Alþingi. Skjaldbreiður is estimated to be around 9,000 years old. SNÆFELL | TF-FIP | SNEYE-fetl | Snæfell, an extinct volcano northeast of Vatnajökull glacier. It has been dormant for at least 10,000 years. SNÆFELLSJÖKULL | TF-ISD | SNEYE-fetls-yuh-kutl | Extinct stratovolcano in western Iceland. The entrance to the centre of the Earth is to be found at its top. Some even believe it is a landing site for extraterrestrials. SURTSEY | TF-FIJ | SEURT-say | Off the coast of South Iceland, a young island that grew up from the ocean floor during a volcanic eruption in 1963. SVÖRTUBORGIR | TF-ISN | SWUR-tuh-boregear | A row of volcanic craters west of Námafjall near Lake Myvatn. This cone row was created in an eruption 2000 years ago.

HELGAFELL | TF-FIT | HEL-gah-fetl | A dormant cone volcano on the outskirts of an important fishing town in the Westman Islands. Its neighbor, Eldfell, was formed in an eruption in 1973.

TORFAJÖKULL | TF-ISY | TOR-va-yuh-kutl | Is in the Highlands of South Iceland and is named after Torfi, an Icelandic historical figure. During the plague in 1493, he is said to have found shelter there with his family.

HENGILL | TF-FIX | HEN-gitl | Volcanic system not far from Reykjavík. The most recent eruption has been radiocarbon dated to about 1,900 years ago. Hellisheiði Geothermal Plant is situated at Hengill. The estimated production capacity for the completed Hellisheiði plant is 300 MW of electricity and 400 MW of thermal energy.

VATNAJÖKULL | TF-FIR | VAT-na-yuh-kutl | Europe’s largest glacier, covering 8% of Iceland’s surface. Six volcanoes lie underneath it, including Bárðarbunga, which caused the Holuhraun eruption in 2014–2015.

HERÐUBREIÐ | TF-FIA | HARE-theu-braith | An extinct volcano in the Highlands of North Iceland. It is a tuya, a volcano formed under a glacier. Many Icelanders consider Herðubreið to be the most beautiful mountain in Iceland. HLÖÐUFELL | TF-ISO | HLEU-thu-fetl | This a tuya volcano 6 mi (10 km) southwest of Langjökull glacier. Hlöðufell was formed when lava erupted through a thick ice sheet that covered all of Iceland during the Pleistocene epoch.

ÞINGVELLIR | TF-ISX | THING-vet-leer | The Þingvellir plains are a spectacular rift valley in southwest Iceland created by two tectonic plates drifting apart—one of the few places in the world where this can be observed on dry land. There the Alþingi, one of the world’s oldest parliaments, was founded in 930 AD. ÖRÆFAJÖKULL | TF-ISL | EU-rye-va-yuh-kutl | The largest active volcano in Iceland, and on its northwestern side is Hvannadalshnjúkur, the highest peak in the country. It has not erupted since the 18th century.

* Wi-Fi is not currently available on Jökulsárlón, Dyrhólaey or Látrabjarg as a new system is being installed. This new state-of-the-art Wi-Fi system will be implemented across all of Icelandair’s fleet in the coming months.

Icelandair Stopover / 77

WE ARE ADDING TO OUR FLEET IN 2018

These new aircraft will further enhance our passengers’ travel experience. We are especially proud of this year’s addition: Our first Boeing 737 MAX 8s, a brand-new Boeing design that features both much quieter engines and a completely redesigned cabin space for extra comfort. BOEING 737 MAX 8 Number of passenger seats: 160 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy Light, Economy Standard and Economy Flex and 2-2 in Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex Length: 129 ft 6 in / 39.5 m Wingspan: 117 ft 10 in / 35.9 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.79 / 453 kn / 521 mph / 839 km/h Maximum range: 3,515 NM / 4,045 mi / 6,510 km Maximum takeoff weight: 181,200 lb / 82,200 kg Engines: 2 x CFM International LEAP-1B

BOEING 757-300 Number of passenger seats: 225 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy Light, Economy Standard and Economy Flex, and 2-2 in Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex Length: 178 ft 7 in / 54.5 m Wingspan: 134 ft 7 in / 41.0 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.80 / 461 kn / 531 mph / 854 km/h Maximum range: 3,200 NM / 3,682 mi / 5,926 km Maximum takeoff weight: 273,000 lb / 123,800 kg Engines: 2 x Rolls-Royce RB211-535E4-B

BOEING 757-200 Number of passenger seats: 183 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy Light, Economy Standard and Economy Flex, and 2-2 in Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex Length: 155 ft 3 in / 47.3 m Wingspan: 134 ft 7 in / 41.0 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.80 / 461 kn / 531 mph / 854 km/h Maximum range: 3,915 NM / 4,505 mi / 7,250 km Maximum takeoff weight: 250,000 lb / 113,400 kg Engines: 2 x Rolls-Royce RB211-535E4 Maximum range based on full passenger load

BOEING 767-300 Number of passenger seats: 262 Seating arrangement: 2-3-2 in Economy Light, Economy Standard and Economy Flex, and 2-1-2 in Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex Length: 180 ft 3 in / 54.9 m Wingspan: 166 ft 11 in / 50.9 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.80 / 461 kn / 531 mph / 854 km/h Maximum range: 5,988 NM / 6,890 mi / 11,090 km Maximum takeoff weight: 412,000 lb / 186,900 kg Engines: 2 x General Electric CF6-80C2B6F

78 / Our Fleet

LET ICELANDAIR SAGA CLUB WORK FOR YOU WHILE YOU TRAVEL n n n n

Earn Saga Points on all hotel bookings Save up to 50% on your booking 24/7 support Book now, pay later

hotels.icelandair.com

Icelandair Stopover / 79

OUR IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Dear Passenger, On this flight you have access to a personal in-flight entertainment system, and these pages offer a sneak peek into our selection. Since we always aim to offer interesting and relevant material on board our flights, we update our selection regularly. Have a browse through the content on the screen in front of you to see everything we offer this time around.

NEW

The selection is quite varied, and we try to offer the latest Hollywood blockbusters of the season. We’ve also dedicated a category to All-Time Classics, where some of the carefully selected films are available for a whole year, allowing you to revisit some of your favorites each time you fly with us.

AUDIO BOOKS

Language: Icelandic and/or English

Brynhildur Georgía Hundadagar Björnsson Fiction I 11:26 hr. Biography I 3:16 hr.

Mórún – Í skugga Sakramentið Skrattakolls Fiction I 7:52 hr. Young Adult, Fantasy I 4:26 hr.

On the edge of Iceland’s Reykjanes peninsula, two women’s lives will intersect while being trapped by unforeseen circumstances. Between a struggling single mother from Iceland and an asylum seeker from Guinea-Bissau, an intimate bond will form as both fight to get their lives back on track. I 102 mins.

TV PROGRAMS

Language: English (with Icelandic subtitles)

Man in the High Castle s1 e1–10 I R I Drama I 60 min.

Goliath s1 e1–6 I R I Drama I 60 min.

Peaky Blinders s3 e1–6 I R I Crime I 60 min.

The Big Bang Theory s8 e22–24, s9 e1 I PG-13 I Comedy I 22 min.

Black Panther PG-13 I Action / Adventure I 134 min.

Game Night R I Comedy I 100 min.

HOLLYWOOD BLOCKBUSTERS Language: English (with Icelandic subtitles)

Isle of Dogs PG-13 I Animation, Comedy I 101 min.

80 / In-Flight Entertainment

Love, Simon PG-13 I Comedy, Drama I 110 min.

SHORTS & DOCS

RECOMMENDED WHEN VISITING ICELAND

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles) S

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

Did you forget your headphones? We sell quality headphones that you can use on this flight and anywhere else.

SHORTS & DOCS

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC SHORT FILM S

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC SHORT FILM

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

Kokkaflakk / Chef’s Abroad s1 e1–5 I G I Documentary I 30 min.

SINE

the tried and tested, r spot. This modestt serves excellently and meat. They also ion of cheeses and ted delicacies.

TORFAN

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'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

Unique Iceland I A holiday destination of extremes. An entertaining and informative series about Iceland, both city and country, so you can feel prepared for your stopover.

Gudjohnsen s1 e1–7 I G I Documentary I 35 min.

DINING

GLÓ

ESSENSIA

OSTABÚÐIN

JÓRGARÐURINN

RTU

Fyrir Ísland / This is for Iceland s1 e1–4 I G I Documentary I 35 min.

Ég er kominn heim / I am Home G I Documentary 103:53 min.

Munda G I Short Film I 18:27 min.

VOURITE S IN REYKJAVÍK

ICELANDIC TV PROGRAMS

ICELANDIC FILMS

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

ICELANDIC MOVIE

Undir trénu / Under the Tree PG-13 I Drama I 89 min.

ICELANDIC MUSIC!

ICELANDIC MOVIE 'T M

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ICELANDIC MOVIE

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ICELANDIC TV SERIES

ICELANDIC MOVIE

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FOR YOUR ENJOYMENT WE'VE SELECTED THE BEST OF

Andið eðlilega / And Breathe Normally G I Drama I 102 min.

I S S OU

DON'T MISS OUT ON T HE

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ICELANDIC MUSIC!

ICELANDIC MOVIE

'T M I S ON THIS

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ICELANDIC MOVIE N

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ICELANDIC MOVIE

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

your search for the land, we’ve compiled n of some noteworthy ng Advisor brochure t in front of you.

ICELANDIC TV SERIES

Fangar / Prisoners s1 e1–6 I PG-13 I Drama / Detective I 43 min.

Pressa II / The Press II s1 e1–6 I R I Drama / Thriller I 47 min.

Spongebob Squarepants / Svampur Sveinsson I 4 ep. I G I Comedy / Kids I 30 min.

Louie I 4 ep. I G I Animation / Kids I 30 min.

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMS Language: Icelandic/English

Go Diego Go! 4 ep. I G I Animation / Kids I 30 min.

Pablo, the Little Red Fox 4 ep. I G I Animation / Kids I 30 min.

Please note that you have many more audio books, films and TV programs to choose from on the in-flight entertainment system. The films and TV programs listed here are only a small selection. Ratings are provided according to the US system but may vary from country to country.

Icelandair Stopover / 81

CLASSES OF SERVICE Icelandair offers a range of on-board services available to all passengers. We are the first European airline to offer gate-to-gate Wi-Fi, which means that you can stay online from the moment you board until you leave the aircraft, free from interruptions during boarding, takeoff and landing. For our youngest flyers, we have a selection of children’s entertainment and games available on the in-flight entertainment system. Children also receive a box with a meal and juice and are provided with headphones and an activity bag. Passengers can check in quickly and easily with our online check-in service. You can use your smart device to check in even faster. It is possible to check in 36 hours before departure to Europe and Canada and 24 hours before departure to North America.

Icelandair caters to a range of tastes and budgets with a selection of five classes: Economy Light, Economy Standard, Economy Flex, Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex. Economy Light offers quality at a reduced price with a luggage allowance of one handbag only, ideal for short-haul trips. Economy Standard includes both hand luggage and one checked-in bag, and Economy Flex additionally includes priority boarding and free Wi-Fi. For an indulgent experience in an exclusive, quiet cabin at the front of the aircraft, choose Saga Premium. With four-abreast wide seating and plenty of legroom, you’ll have ample space to work or simply stretch out and rest up for your destination. Saga Premium Flex additionally offers an unlimited stopover in Iceland and the flexibility to refund. For detailed information about what each class has to offer, see the table below.

ECONOMY LIGHT

ECONOMY STANDARD ECONOMY FLEX

Priority check-in

No No Yes, where applicable

SAGA PREMIUM

SAGA PREMIUM FLEX Yes, where applicable

Lounge access

Yes, where applicable

Priority boarding

Yes, where applicable

Seating 737, 757

3-3

2-2

Seating 767

2-3-2

2-1-2

Luggage allowance

No checked luggage

1x50 lb (23 kg)

2x70 lb (32 kg)

Carry-on luggage

1x22 lb (10 kg)

2x22 lb (10 kg)

Legroom

31–32" / 79–81 cm

40" / 101 cm

In-flight entertainment

Yes

Wi-Fi

For a small fee

Included for 2 devices

Headphones

For sale

Yes, noise-canceling

Blankets and pillows

Upon request

Universal electric outlet No USB port

Yes

Upon request

Yes

Yes Yes Yes Yes

Non-alcoholic beverages Included

Included

Alcoholic beverages

For sale

Included

Champagne

For sale

Included

Meals

For sale

Included, special menu

Travel kit

On N-American routes

Hot towels

Yes

Pre-flight drink

On N-American routes

On N-American routes Unlimited

Stopover

For up to 3 nights

For up to 7 nights

Change fees

$300 Fare difference may apply*

$150 Fare difference may apply*

None, but fare difference is applicable

From $150 None, but fare difference Fare difference may apply* is applicable**

Refundability Non-refundable Non-refundable Refundable

Non-refundable Refundable

Combinability between Combines classes solely with Economy Light

Combines with Saga Premium

Combines with Saga Premium Flex

Combines with Economy Standard

Combines with Economy Flex

Saga Points earned 50%

100%

150%

200%

300%

*Subject to currency changes

82 / Services on Board

**Additionally: A free shift of flight time up to +/– 24 hours if booked within 48 hours of the original departure time. Valid on Icelandair flights only.

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PASSENGER GUIDE

PORTABLE ELECTRONIC DEVICES Always permitted

Permitted at gate and above 10,000 feet*

Power outlets are located in all seats on Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex. USB outlets provide power to charge small personal electronic devices, such as mobile phones, cameras or iPods.

Aircraft B75-200 I Aircraft B 757-300 Hearing Aid

Pacemaker

DVD Player

Plug

Laptop / Tablet

Rows 1–14

USB

All rows

NOTE: PEDs must be disconnected from any in-seat electrical power supply during taxiing, t akeoff, approach, landing and during abnormal or emergency conditions.

NOTE: *Larger PEDs (more than 1 kg) such as laptops must be securely stowed in overhead compartments or under the seat before takeoff and landing.

Always permitted*

Tablet

E-reader

Smartphone (in-flight mode)

Camera (digital, film, video)

NoiseCanceling Headphones (power ON)

CD Player

Media Player

Handheld Game

WHAT ELECTRONIC DEVICES CAN I USE ON BOARD THE AIRCRAFT? Handheld devices with flight mode Handheld devices, such as tablets, e-readers and mobile phones may be used during all phases of the flight, provided that flight mode is enabled before departure. Devices must be safely secured in the customer’s hand or pocket during taxi, takeoff and landing. Devices without flight mode Any device that transmits or receives radio signals but does not have flight mode must be switched off for the duration of the flight. Laptops and other larger devices These devices may be used during boarding but not for taxi, takeoff and landing. They may be used in-flight. They shall be stowed away safely during taxi, takeoff and landing. Other devices without connectivity This includes items such as DVD players, electronic games and music players. Only small, handheld devices may be used during taxi, takeoff and landing. Larger devices must be switched off and stowed away safely during takeoff and landing.

84 / Devices and Wi-Fi

NOTE: *Small lightweight Portable Electronic Devices, or PEDs – 1 kg or less (iPhone, iPad, iPad mini, Samsung Galaxy phones & tablets, Nokia, Microsoft Surface, Kindle e-reader, digital cameras etc.) are permitted as long as they are secured during takeoff and landing. Passengers must either hold their PED or securely place it in the seat pocket. Lightweight PEDs may not be unsecured on the seat beside them. PED cords or accessories are not to impede emergency egress. We ask passengers to remove their headphones and pay attention to the safety briefing.

Are there times when I can’t use my handheld devices? Flight or cabin crew may ask you at any time to switch off all electronic devices should interference be detected. Can I connect to Wi-Fi (if provided in-flight) even if flight mode is enabled? Yes. Cellular services must be turned off (flight mode) at all times, but other wireless services such as Wi-Fi may be used above 10,000 ft if a connection service is installed in the aircraft. It is possible to re-enable Wi-Fi and connect to a Wi-Fi network while flight mode is enabled. A peaceful cabin for everyone To keep the cabin peaceful please use headphones when listening to music or other material and place computer games and such on silent or very low volume. Precaution If your mobile phone or tablet gets caught in the seat, please inform the cabin crew and they will assist you. If a battery operated device overheats during the flight, inform the cabin crew immediately.

WIRELESS INTERNET ON BOARD SEE OUR WI-FI PORTAL FOR PRICING INFORMATION How do I connect to the Wi-Fi network? 1. Make sure your mobile device is set to flight mode during all phases of flight. Then activate Wi-Fi on your device. 2. Choose the “Icelandair Internet Access” network. 3. Open your browser of choice and then press “Get Wi-Fi” if using a laptop. On your phone, choose either the “Wi-Fi” or “Complimentary” option. What you can expect The connection speed is similar to 3G. Keep in mind that the on-board Wi-Fi is therefore not as fast as home connections. The number of users can affect the speed of the connection. Wi-Fi is available from the moment you board and until you leave the aircraft. A new state-of-the-art Wi-Fi system will be imple mented across all of Icelandair’s fleet in the coming months.

HELSINKI VANCOUVER

Do I need to set my smartphone or tablet to flight mode? All smartphones and tablets may be switched on at all times, but in flight mode only. You might have to activate Wi-Fi separately when your device is set to flight mode. Your device must be safely secured in your hand or pocket during taxi, takeoff and landing. You can stay connected throughout your flight – from the moment you board and until you disembark. What kind of device can I use? You can use a laptop, a tablet or a smartphone to connect. The connection will be activated on the same device you use to purchase or validate Internet access. When can I start using the Wi-Fi access? You will be able to connect as soon as you want, and the connection will be active throughout your flight.

ANCHORAGE

SEATTLE

What can I do when connected? n You can check your email. n You can browse the web. n You can use social media and other communication platforms.

STOCKHOLM EDMONTON

OSLO GOTHENBURG BERGEN COPENHAGEN

PORTLAND

SAN FRANCISCO ICELAND

BILLUND BERLIN HAMBURG FRANKFURT MUNICH AMSTERDAM GLASGOW BRUSSELS ZURICH MANCHESTER MILAN DUBLIN LONDON PARIS GENEVA HEATHROW & GATWICK ORLY & CDG

DENVER MINNEAPOLIS / ST. PAUL

Now Icelandair Saga Club members can use their Saga Points to pay for Wi-Fi access, more details in our pricing information in our Wi-Fi Portal. If you are having trouble connecting, please send an email to wifi@icelandair.is the next time you are connected to the Internet. More questions can be found in the Wi-Fi portal.

MADRID CHICAGO TORONTO KANSAS CITY CLEVELAND DALLAS

MONTREAL

BALTIMORE HALIFAX BOSTON WASHINGTON D.C. PHILADELPHIA NEW YORK

Icelandair Saga Gold members and booked Saga Premium passengers get complimentary Wi-Fi access for two devices.

JFK & NEWARK

TAMPA BAY

ORLANDO

The pink color indicates network coverage on Icelandair routes.

Icelandair Stopover / 85

SAFETY FIRST Iceland’s vast nature is spectacular, unique—and unpredictable. Sunny and calm periods can transform into windstorms, blizzards and plummeting temperatures in a matter of hours. If you are planning to travel to a more isolated area, please leave a copy of your itinerary with the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue at safetravel.is, and, for all excursions, observe these tips: DRIVING n When driving, keep your full attention on the road, especially on areas where tarmac turns to gravel. Blind hills should be approached with caution. It is illegal to operate a vehicle after consuming alcohol.

KNOW YOUR EMERGENCY NUMBER ICELAND / EUROPE �� 112 USA AND CANADA �� 911 UK �� 999 / 112 icesar.com Emergency calls are free to make from mobile phones. If you’re on the other side of the Atlantic, or in Iceland from North America, don’t forget to check on arrival if yours is working. Some phones operate on a different bandwidth and will not work in foreign countries.

On single-lane bridges, the car closer to the bridge has the right of way, but it is always wise to stop and assess the situation.

ICELANDIC SEARCH AND RESCUE:

Only take Highland roads if you have a 4x4 jeep, and make sure you have the experience necessary to operate these vehicles in tough conditions.

Roads can be quite slippery during winter, especially after frost in the early morning. All Highland roads are closed during winter.

OUR COUNTRY’S BRAVE VOLUNTEERS

Off-road driving is illegal.

HIKING When you are hiking, be prepared for sudden weather changes, stick to your travel plan, and dress appropriately, with water- and wind-resistant clothing, gloves and hats.

Do not get too close to cliff edges or hot springs. When waves are big, stay far ahead from the sea; be especially vigilant along the south coast, which is open to the Atlantic Ocean.

If you get lost, call 112, the emergency service line. Stay where you are and wait for rescue services to find you.

The search and rescue association also offers a free emergency app, downloadable from their website. Your coordinates will be sent to the emergency response crews should you use the app. There is more information on safe travel in Iceland on our in-flight entertainment system.

Visit safetravel.is for equipment lists, travel plans and the latest traveling conditions.

86 / Safety

If you get lost on a mountain, can’t find your way at sea, or encounter virtually any other difficulty in Iceland’s outdoors, the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue (ICE-SAR) is there to help. In a country with no military and only a few coast guard vessels and helicopters, ICE-SAR’s 3,000 highly-trained volunteers command deserved respect from both locals and visitors. Their teams deal with thousands of calls annually and are available 24 hours a day, on land or at sea. So while the vast majority of trips to Iceland will be without incident, you can rest easy that, should the need arise, the nation’s most experienced people will be prepared to save lives and prevent accidents under even the harshest conditions. Remember too that rescue operations are expensive to launch: Advanced equipment is used and volunteers take time off from their jobs to take part. ICE-SAR relies entirely on donations to finance itself; you can contribute via their website, icesar.com.

SAFETY ON BOARD We put safety first on all of our flights. The in-flight safety video gives a good overview of what you need to know for a safe journey. Please follow the instructions carefully and check out the safety card in your seat pocket. The cabin crew is there to assist and keep you safe at all times so please follow their guidance and suggestions. All electronic devices (mobile phones, tablets, e-readers) have to be switched off or in flight mode during the flight. This does of course not extend to heart pacemakers, hearing aids and other devices needed for medical reasons. For further information see page 84. If your mobile phone or tablet gets caught in the seat, please inform the cabin crew and they will assist you. If a battery operated device overheats during the flight, inform the cabin crew immediately.

Please not that your life belt may be located above your seat or in the arm rest.

Whenever the seatbelt signs are on please: n

Stow devices larger than 10.5 in (27 cm) and/or more than 2.2 lb (1 kg) in the overhead compartment.

Hold devices smaller than 10.5 in (27 cm) and lighter than 2.2 lb (1 kg) or stow them in the overhead compartment or seat pocket. To keep the cabin peaceful please use headphones when listening to music or other material and place computer games and such on silent or very low volume.

For your safety and comfort we recommend that you keep your seatbelt fastened and visible throughout the flight. Store your hand luggage in the overhead compartments or place it under the seat in front of you. Be careful when opening the compartments as luggage may have shifted. When space is limited we might need to store some hand luggage the luggage hold. Smoking is prohibited on all Icelandair flights. This includes vapings.

Icelandair Stopover / 87

SAMNINGUR UM UNDANÞÁGU FRÁ VEGABRÉFSÁRITUN TIL BANDARÍKJANNA (VISA WAIVER PROGRAM – VWP) Samningur um undanþágu frá vegabréfsáritun til Bandaríkjanna (Visa Waiver Program) gerir ríkisborgurum tiltekinna landa kleift að ferðast til Bandaríkjanna í skemmti- eða viðskiptaferð í allt að 90 sólarhringa án þess að sækja um og fá sérstaka vegabréfsáritun. Ferðamönnum, sem þessi samningur tekur til, er eftir sem áður heimilt að sækja um vegabréfsáritun ef þeir kjósa svo. Aðeins tiltekinn fjöldi ríkja eru aðilar að þessum samningi (VWP) og ekki er öllum ferðamönnum frá ríkjum, sem eru aðilar að samningnum, heimilt að nýta sér undanþáguna. Öllum ferðamönnum frá löndum, sem eru aðilar að VWP, er skylt að sækja um rafræna ferðaheimild á vef bandarískra innflytjendayfirvalda (Electronic

System for Travel Authorization – ESTA). Þegar komið er til Bandaríkjanna verður starfsmaður innflytjendayfirvalda á

flugvellinum að staðfesta að viðkomandi ferðamaður hafi undanþágu skv. VWP og ferðamaðurinn er þá skráður í US-VISIT kerfið.

Lönd sem eru aðilar að samningnum um undanþágu frá vegabréfsáritun til Bandaríkjanna Countries participating in the Visa Waiver Program n Slovakia n Andorra n France n Lithuania n Slovenia n Australia n Germany n Luxembourg n South Korea n Austria n Greece n Malta n Spain n Belgium n Hungary n Monaco n Sweden n Brunei n Iceland n The Netherlands n Switzerland n Chile n Ireland n New Zealand n Taiwan n Czech Republic n Italy n Norway n United Kingdom n Denmark n Japan n Portugal n n

Estonia Finland

n n

Latvia Liechtenstein

n n

VISA WAIVER PROGRAM The Visa Waiver Program (VWP) enables nationals of certain countries participate in the VWP, and not all travelers from VWP countries are eligible to use the program. VWP travelers are required to apply for authorization through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA), are screened at their port of entry into the United States and are enrolled in the US-VISIT program. Visit cbp.gov/esta to learn more.

San Marino Singapore

US CUSTOMS DECLARATION EN

Before arriving in the US, each traveler or head of family is required to fill this form out and present to US Customs.

Hver komufarþegi eða forráða maður í fjölskyldu skal gefa eftirfarandi upplýsingar (fyrir hverja fjölskyldu dugar EIN yfirlýsing).

Vor der Einreise in den U.S.A müssen Sie eine Zollerklärung ausfüllen.

1. Eftirnafn, skírnarnafn, miðnafn

1. Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname

2. Fæðingardagur dagur / mánuður / ár

2. Geburtsdatum / Tag / Monat / Jahr

3. Fjöldi fjölskyldumeðlima sem ferðast saman

3. Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder

4. a) Heimilisfang í Bandaríkjunum (nafn hótels / áfangastaðar) b) Borg c) Fylki

4. (a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels / Reiseziel) (b) Stadt (c) Staat

Avant d’arriver aux États-Unis, il vous sera demandé de remplir un formulaire de déclaration en douane.

1. Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom. 2. Date de naissance Jour / Mois / Année. 3. Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous. 4. Adresse aux États-Unis a) Destination ou nom de l’hôtel. b) Ville. c) Etat.

5. Útgáfustaður vegabréfs (land)

5. Pass ausgestellt von (Land)

6. Númer vegabréfs

6. Passnummer

7. Land búsetu

7. Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land)

8. Lönd sem var farið til í þessari ferð, fyrir lendingu í Bandaríkjunum

8. Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA

7. Pays de résidence.

9. Flugfélag / Númer flugs eða heiti flugvélar

9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes

8. Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l’arrivée aux Etats-Unis.

10. Markmið þessarar ferðar er viðskiptalegs eðlis JÁ / NEI 11. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis: a) ávexti, jurtir, mat, skordýr: b) kjöt, dýr, dýraafurðir c) smitefni, frumuræktir, snigla d) mold eða hef/höfum dvalist á bónda bæ /mjólkurbúi / beitilandi JÁ/NEI 12. Ég hef (við höfum) verið í snertingu eða meðhöndlað lifandi dýr JÁ / NEI 13. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis peninga / gjaldmiðil eða aðra fjármuni að jafngildi hærri upphæð en USD 10.000. (sjá skilgreiningu á fjármun-um á bakhlið seðilsins) JÁ / NEI

10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich. Ja/nein 11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten. (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte. (c) Krankheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken. (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/einer Ranch/Weide. Ja/ nein 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit). Ja/nein

14. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis varning (til sölu eða sem ég hef (við höfum) keypt eða fengið erlendis, sem ekki teljast til persónulegra eigna) JÁ / NEI

13. Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit.

15. Búsettir í Bandaríkjunum – andvirði varnings sem ég hef (við höfum) keypt eða fengið erlendis (einnig gjafir fyrir aðra) er: Ekki búsettir í Bandaríkjunum – andvirði alls varnings sem verður eftir í Bandaríkjunum:

(Siehe die Definition von Zahlungsmitteln auf der Rückseite). Ja/nein

14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten) Ja/nein 15. Ansässige – der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschliesslich der kommerziellern Waren, die ich (wir) im Ausland gekauft oder erworben habe(n) - (einschließlich Geschenke an Dritte, jedoch ausschließlich Gegenstände, die per Post in die USA gesendet wurden) und in die USA einführe(n).

88 / Customs Info

Besucher – der Gesamtwert aller Waren, die in den USA verbleiben werden, einschließlich der kommerziellen Waren, beträgt.

5. Lieu de délivrance du passeport (nom du pays). 6. Numéro de passeport.

9. Ligne aérienne / et numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau. 10. Vous voyagez pour raison d’affaires. OUI /NON 11. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes. b) viandes, animaux, produits provenant d’animaux ou d’animaux sauvages c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots d) terre. J’ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis, OUI / NON 12. J’ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail. OUI/NON 13. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d’espèces ou d’instruments monétaires d’une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d’instruments monétaire au verso) à plus de 10 000$ US. OUI / NON 14. Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstra tion ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels). OUI/NON 15. Résidents : La valeur totale de tous les arti cles (y compris les marchandises commer ciales) que j’ai / nous avons acheté ou acquis à l’étranger et que j’apporte / nous apportons (y compris cadeaux, mais qui excluent les effets affranchis vers les États-Unis) aux ÉtatsUnis. Visiteurs : La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis (y compris les marchan dises commerciales).

CANADA CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM Before arriving in Canada, each traveler or head of family is required to fill this form out and present to Customs. PART A All travelers (living at the same address) 1. Last name, first name and initials a) Date of birth b) Citizenship 2. Home Address – Number, street, apartment No. a) City/Town b) Prov./State c) Country d) Postal/Zip code 3. Arriving by: a) Air b) Rail c) Marine d) Highway e) Airline/flight no., train no. or vessel name

4. Purpose of trip: a) Study b) Personal c) Business 5. Arriving from: a) U.S. only b) Other country direct c) Other country via U.S. 6. I am/we are bringing into Canada: • Firearms or other weapons (e.g. switchblades, Mace or pepper spray). • Currency/or monetary instruments of a value totaling CAN$10,000 or more per person. I/we have shipped goods that are not accompanying me/us. I/we have visited a farm and will be going to a a farm in Canada.

PART B Visitors to Canada Duration of stay in Canada Do you or any person listed above exceed the duty-free allowances per person? (see instructions on the left)

Complete in the same order as Part A Date left Canada YY-MM-DD Value of goods-CAN$. Purchased or received abroad (including gifts, alcohol & tobacco)

PART C Residents of Canada Do you or any person listed above exceed the exemptions per person? (See instructions on the left)

Part D Signatures (age 16 and older): I certify that my declaration is true and complete

Why passengers coming from non-EEA or Schengen countries require security screening upon arrival in Iceland Aviation security regulations in countries outside the European Economic Area (EEA), including Canada, do not comply with those in EEA

countries, including Iceland. Passengers from non-EEA countries must therefore go through security screening at Keflavík International

Airport before joining other passengers in the terminal. The same rules apply to the quantity of liquids in carry-on baggage.

ICELANDAIR ALLERGY POLICY Icelandair cannot guarantee an allergen-free environment on board its aircraft. Therefore, we strongly encourage passengers with severe allergies that can result in anaphylaxis to bring an epinephrine autoinjector (EpiPen®) and any other medications they may need. The meals offered on Icelandair flights do not contain peanuts or peanut products, such as peanut butter, although trace elements from peanuts may be found in meals. In addition, tree nuts (e.g. almonds) may be found in meals on board, and fish and shellfish are sometimes on offer in Saga Premium. Unfortunately, it is not possible to remove tree nuts, fish or shellfish from the cabin.

In the case of severe nut allergy, our cabin crew can make an allergy announcement on board, asking other passengers on the flight not to consume foods that contain nuts. Please contact Icelandair Customer support at +354 50 50 100 at least 48 hours before departure to request an allergy announcement. We do, however, wish to stress that Icelandair can in no way restrict other passengers from bringing or consuming their own food on the aircraft that may contain nuts or other allergens. For that reason, it is possible to find traces of nuts on seat cushions, arm rests, tray tables, or elsewhere in the cabin.

Book a taxi with ease.

We specialize in personalized sightseeing day trips to the natural wonders of Iceland – for small groups of 4-8 persons

We´ll make you a Comfortable Price offer!

Download the Hreyfill Taxi App

The taxi app is FREE and available in iOS and Android.

All major credit cards accepted by the driver. We specialise in trips to the Blue Lagoon(3-hour stop)on the way from or to the airport

To book in advance: tel:+354 588 5522 or on www.hreyfill.is E-mail: tour@hreyfill.is

Icelandair Stopover / 89