Icelandair Stopover magazine - summer 2019 by Icelandair

Summer Magazine 2019

#MyStopover

STOPOVER

OCEANIC ADVENTURES Kit Harington on Game of Thrones and Iceland page 16

A Guide to Iceland’s Seafood Trail page 20

Cool Diving and Hot Bathing Spots page 26

On the Lookout for Earth’s Largest Animal page 44

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Make the most of your last hours in Iceland. We are your one stop shop for Icelandic design, souvenirs and traditional food. Browse wheninkef.is to see our selection and offers. All shops and restaurants are tax- and duty free.

SUMMER 2019 I PUBLISHED BY ICELANDAIR

LOOK INSIDE Featured Content:

4 Letter From Icelandair 6 Iceland 101 8 Landscape: A Soak on the Shore 10 What to Do This Summer 12 Recommended Reads 14 Activities: Sea Swimming 16 Interview: Kit Harington 18 My Location: Game of Thrones 20 Food: The Seafood Trail 26 Travel: Diving Adventures in the North 30 Sport: Iceland’s New Shooting Star 32 Travel: Suburban Secrets 36 Film: Doomed Love in Let Me Fall 38 Quiz With the Winners of Music

40 Travel: Arctic Coast Way Opens 42 Icelandair on Instagram 44 Searching for the Blue Whale 46 Icelandic for Beginners 48 Aerobatics for 100 Years of Aviation 50 #MyStopover: Icelandic Wedding 54 Children’s Corner: The Animals of

Editor: Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir (editor@icelandair.is) Cover Image: Getty Images Copy Editor: Sarah Dearne Contributing Writers: Ásta Andrésdóttir, Eygló Svala Arnarsdóttir, Carolyn Bain, Egill Bjarnason, Kiri Buchanan, Sarah Dearne, Björn Halldórsson, Tina Jøhnk Christensen, John Lee, Einar Lövdahl, Sally O’Brien, Brandon Presser, Lisa Gail Shannen, Michelle Spinei

Contributing Illustrators: Alfreð I. A. Pétursson and KIDZinflight Contributing Photographers: Egill Bjarnason, Erlendur Bogason, Bryony Caldwell, Hjördis Eyþórsdóttir, Roman Gerasymenko, Willy Grauby, Hákon Guðröðarson, Al Harvey, Jón Óskar Hauksson, Sigurgeir Jónasson, John Lee, Mario Liebherr, David Mark, Nelson Mouellic, Sally O’Brien, Hlynur Vestmar Oddsson, Jónas Ottósson,

Experiments

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Treasure Iceland

56 Film: The Quirks and Charms of RIFF 60 Our Top Stopover Picks 64 Our Destinations: The Green Spaces of Vancouver

66 Our Destinations: 68

Flyer’s Hub:

75 76 77 79 80 81 82 84 90 92 94 96

Route Network Icelandair @Work: Novelties and News Icelandair’s Special Children Travel Fund Saga Shop Kitchen: On-Board Menu Icelandair Travel Experience Services on Board In-Flight Entertainment Map of Iceland and Domestic Routes Our Fleet: Aircraft Types and Names Devices and Wi-Fi Safety Information Guide to Customs Forms

Winding Down in Geneva Our Destinations: Family Fun in Billund Alfreð I. A. Pétursson, Karissa Poot, Brandon Presser, Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson, Helen Sloan, Björn Steinbeck, Denis Tyrin, Kim Wyon Advertising: icelandair.us/advertise-en Design: Alfreð I. A. Pétursson / Icelandic Ad Agency Printing: Oddi

AN SV

S MERK

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VOLCANO & EARTHQUAKE EXHIBITION The Lava Centre is situated at Hvolsvöllur on the South Coast of Iceland, surrounded by active volcanoes. It truly acts as the gateway to Iceland’s most active volcanic area. It’s a must-see for anyone wanting to get a better understanding of the incredible forces that have shaped Iceland. The Lava Centre just received two Red Dot Awards, which cement its position as a world class exhibition.

More info and tickets at

www.lavacentre.is

Open every day

9:00 - 19:00

Lava now accepts

social media

Iceland Volcano & Earthquake Centre Austurvegur 14, Hvolsvöllur · South Iceland

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LETTER FROM ICELANDAIR:

SUMMER SUN AND SMOOTH SEAS BOGI NILS BOGASON, CEO OF ICELANDAIR GROUP.

Dear fellow traveler, Over the past decade, Icelandair has been at the forefront of transforming Iceland into a year-round tourist destination. Our focus on steadily expanding our route network over the years has been key to enhancing Iceland’s position as an international connecting hub. This has been our focus since 2012, when we created our future vision “to unlock Iceland’s potential as a year-round-destination, to strengthen Iceland’s position as a connecting hub, and to maintain our focus on flexibility and experience.” It’s safe to say that we have reached our goals and fulfilled this vision. Iceland is already a popular yearround destination and now serves as a strong connecting hub between Europe and North America. In 2018, we transported 4.1 million pass engers, and I want to use this opportunity to thank you for choosing Icelandair for your journey to Iceland, Europe or North America. If your plan is to stop in Iceland this summer, I have a recommendation: to play golf in the Icelandic midnight sun. It’s known that Ice landers are fond of handball and football. It’s not as widely known that Icelanders are also fierce golf players, with over 60 golf courses all around the country.

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I started playing golf when I was seven years old in a 9-hole golf course in Eski fjörður, a small village in the East Fjords where I grew up. I have been playing golf ever since then. We have a short season in Iceland but it’s quite handy to be able to play late evenings during the summer, taking advantage of the midnight sun. There’s nothing that compares to it. In this issue, we cover some of the adven tures of the North Atlantic, including ocean swimming (page 14), diving and snorkeling in the high north (page 26), keeping watch for the world’s biggest whale (page 44), seafood galore (page 20) and the opening of Iceland’s next big tourist attraction: The Arctic Coast Way (page 40). Game of Thrones has come to an end. Kit Harington discusses the hit series and his role as Jon Snow on page 16, and on page 18, you can learn more about some of the series’ most memorable shooting locations in Iceland. For culture in and around the capital, read about the upcoming Reykjavík International Film Festival on page 56, and on page 32, discover the attractions of the capital’s charming neighboring towns. We also shine a light on rising stars in film, music and sports. Nineteen-year-old foot baller Arnór Sigurðsson, the youngest

Icelander to play and score in the Champions League, is in an interview on page 30. Elín Sif Halldórsdóttir and Eyrún Björk Jakobsdóttir were praised for their roles as troubled teenagers in drama Let Me Fall. They discuss the harsh realities of drug addiction along with the film’s director, Baldvin Zophoníasson, on page 36. Teenage metal band Blóðmör won the 2019 Icelandic Music Experiments. Read a Q&A with its members on page 38. Also, don’t miss a photo series of an enchanted wedding in Iceland on page 50. For more travel tips, flip over to page 60, and check out upcoming events on page 10. Beyond Iceland, we cover three fabulous summer destinations: the Green Spaces of Vancouver (page 64); lakeside lounging, boating and wine tasting in Geneva (page 66); and fun activities for families in and around Billund, Denmark (page 68). And remember, when you fly between North America and Europe, you can add a Stopover in Iceland at no extra charge and make the most of your travel adventure. Whether you spend your summer traveling or working, I hope you enjoy your journey with Icelandair. We look forward to seeing you on board again. Góða ferð! Have a good trip.

GRÍMSEY

SUÐUREYRI ÍSAFJÖRÐUR

DALVÍK

FLATEY

ARNARSTAPI

REYÐARFJÖRÐUR

HOFSJÖKULL LANGJÖKULL

VATNAJÖKULL

AKRANES

HEKLA

REYKJAVÍK REYKJANESBÆR

THIS IS HIGHWAY 1 VESTMANNAEYJAR

ICELAND 101 Welcome to Iceland! Looking for the basics on Iceland before your Icelandair Stopover? Here are a few essentials about our North Atlantic paradise. The national language is Icelandic, and while you’ll have no problem getting by using English, we’re grateful anytime a visitor tries to use góðan daginn (good day) or takk (thank you). You are going to land at Keflavík Airport. When you first step outside, take a deep breath and inhale our wonderful clean air. Welcome to the North Atlantic. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, winter temperatures are milder here than you’ll find in New York or Toronto. When the thermometer creeps above 68°F (20°C) in summer, Icelanders bask in the sun at cafés and beaches. You probably already know that Iceland is a volcanic land. We also have many glaciers and countless other natural wonders. Remember to stay safe on your travels and check out safetravel.is before you go. There’s no need to buy bottled water when you’re here. What comes out of the tap is pure, clean, tasty—and free. You may notice the hot water has a slightly sulfurous smell, but it’s plentiful; we even use it to heat our homes!

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It does not get as cold in winter as you might think, but nevertheless our weather can be quite unpredictable. Bring lots of clothes to wear in layers—even in summer—and a good quality windproof jacket. Most importantly, don’t forget your bathing suit! Visiting our thermal pools is a highlight of most trips (though you can always rent a suit if you forgot yours). There aren’t a lot of trees in Iceland. It can be windy here. Remember to hold your car door when you open it. Trust us; your rental company will thank you. Electricity in Iceland is 220 volts, the same as in Europe. If you bring electronics from the US or Canada, you’ll need an adapter for both plugs and current. Iceland is a wired society, and you’ll find Internet hotspots almost everywhere. Many of you will be visiting our country to enjoy our unique nature, of which we are very proud. Please remember, though, that Iceland’s delicate landscapes can take decades, or even centuries, to recover from misuse. Please don’t collect stones, tread on or pick up sensitive moss, or drive off road—

We call it the Ring Road because, as you can see, it is shaped like a ring around the whole island. Many people like to follow this 882mile (1,323-km) long route when they want to see a lot of the country, but don’t forget to venture off on other roads so you can explore areas like the Westfjords, Snæfellsnes peninsula and Reykjanes.

even in what may appear to be barren, sandy territory. Speaking of our landscapes, you’ll notice that there aren’t many signs, fences or other barriers around our natural wonders. We trust your common sense. So when you see or hear a warning, please heed it: Do not step over ropes that are blocking an area. Hot springs can be dangerously hot. Rocks near waterfalls can be slippery. And the sea can be deceptively calm. Follow local advice. The name of Iceland’s capital, Reykjavík, means “smoky bay.” About two-thirds of our population of 350,000 live in the Capital Region. Photographers love Iceland for its incredible, ever-changing light. It never gets fully dark between about mid-May and early August, while in December a muted light shines over the island for a few short hours each day.

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Birkimelur

POOL PARTY BY CAROLYN BAIN. PHOTO BY BJÖRN STEINBECK.

Far away in the northwestern corner of Iceland, rutted roads wind along fjord edges and over mountains, carrying travelers to bird-filled cliffs, empty beaches, towering waterfalls and sleepy villages. A summer road-trip through the Westfjords is a delight, as epic landscapes are unveiled and naturebased pitstops beckon. Some of the best-loved stops are the region’s outdoor swimming spots and hot pools. Many have perfected the combination of relaxing geothermal soak accompanied by endless vistas. This image is a bird’s-eye view of the summer-opening Birkimelur pool, sitting in a plum location on the Westfjords’ south coast, west of the ferry terminal at Brjánslækur as you head to the avian wonders of Látrabjarg. It’s a simple concrete pool with modest facilities, but you can see the criteria met for the textbook Icelandic swimming experience. Remote location, check. Scenery, check (on a clear day, look for Snæfellsjökull glacier across the bay). Geothermal rockpool, check. Dive in!

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HERE AND THERE

Here’s what happening on the hippest island in the North Atlantic this summer. NESKAUPSTAÐUR

BY SARAH DEARNE.

July 10–13

DALVÍK / HRAFNAGIL August 8–11

Eistnaflug Serving up an ironclad combo of heavy metal and Icelandic small-town charm, Eistnaflug is a four-day family reunion of headbangers from far and wide. Taking the stage this year are local scenesters Auðn, Sólstafir and Dynfari, alongside international acts Primordial (Ireland) and Golden Core (Norway). Don’t be fooled by the corpse paint—Eistnaflug is famously friendly and inclusive, with one key exception: “No idiots allowed!” I eistnaflug.is

The Great Fish Day / The Arctic Handcraft and Design Fair August 8–11 are busy days in North Iceland, with festivals coinciding in the villages of Dalvík and Hrafnagil (a little north and south of Akureyri, respectively). The immensely popular Great Fish Day in Dalvík reels you in with the promise of a free seafood buffet, then treats you to a delightful day out by the harbor, complete with live entertainment and ocean-themed activities. And if you’re in the market for holiday keep sakes, skip the puffin stores and head down to the Arctic Handcraft and Design Fair, where you can nab authentic treasures hand made from local materials such as wool, fish leather and volcanic stones. The fair also has family-friendly entertainment and food on offer, making for a perfect afternoon out in the Eyjafjörður countryside. I fiskidagurinnmikli.is, handverkshatid.is

REYKHOLT

July 26–28

Reykholt Chamber Music Festival The tiny village of Reykholt hosts the Chamber Music Festival, a summer music staple since 1997. The three-day event makes use of Reykholtskirkja church’s lush acoustics, with performers from Iceland and abroad filling its chambers with classical and contemporary sounds. Reykholt is one of the most important historic sites in Iceland, so be sure to wander over to the Snorrastofa medieval center while you’re there. I reykholtshatid.is

EYJAFJÖRÐUR

July 20–21

Gásir Medieval Days The Medieval Days festival invites you to venture back in time to the Gásir marketplace, an ancient trading post brought to life by history buffs in medieval garb. You can learn about traditional craftsmanship, games, cooking and more, while younger travelers burn off steam and battle out back-seat disputes with friendly sword fights. There are some neat ancient ruins to explore, too. Keen authenticity makes Medieval Days festival as enlightening as it is enjoyable. I gasir.is

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VATNAJÖKULL REGION August 17 Firework Show at Jökulsárlón After weeks of midnight sun, locals and visitors welcome back the nighttime darkness with the annual Firework Show at Jökulsárlón, Iceland’s iconic glacier lake. Splashes of light and color twinkle over the glacial waters and illuminate the icebergs, creating a surreal sensory experience that won’t soon be forgotten. As a feel-good bonus, all proceeds go towards ICE-SAR, the Icelandic search and rescue team. I visitvatnajokull.is/event/firework-showat-jokulsarlon

REYKJAVÍK

August 24

Reykjavík Marathon and Culture Night Every August, runners and revelers flock

Dalvík Gásir Hrafnagil Akureyri Neskaupstaður n

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Reykjavík

Jökulsárlón

downtown for the Reykjavík Marathon and Culture Night, one of Iceland’s most attended annual events. The day scurries into action with the marathon (you can also sign up for shorter distances), then around noon it’s time for cultural events in every imaginable form, followed by evening concerts and harborside fireworks to cap off the night with a bang. Cultural events and public transport are free for the day, so peruse the program and hop on a bus downtown. I marathon.is, culturenight.is

REYKJAVÍK

September 4–8

Reykjavík Jazz Festival Just try to resist the funky charm of the Reykjavik Jazz Festival. Unfolding over five days, the program focuses on contemporary jazz including Nordic and avant garde stylings performed by handpicked local and international players. The festival also advertises programs for kids and “nonjazzers,” though these may be a ruse to lure you in with their groovy rhythms. I reykjavikjazz.is Left: Gásir marketplace. Photo courtesy of Akureyri Museum. Center: Photo by Jón Óskar Hauksson. Right: The Great Fish Day serves up fresh fish. Photo by Bryony Caldwell.

NO NEED TO WAIT FOR YOUR BAGS if you do what the locals do and pick up some duty free goods in the arrival store before your luggage www.dutyfree.is

THE DUTY FREE ALLOWANCE IS 6 UNITS OF ALCOHOL, ANY WAY YOU LIKE IT Use the duty free allowance calculator on our website, www.dutyfree.is, to determine how to make the best use of your allowance.

VACATION TRANSLATIONS With more and more translated books being published in English each spring, works of international literature are becoming top vacation reads for the discerning traveler. Take a gander at Björn Halldórsson’s selection of new books from Iceland. THE DARKNESS By Ragnar Jónasson In The Darkness Ragnar Jónasson lays to rest stalwart Siglufjörður policeman Ari Þór for a new and very different protagonist: Detective Hulda Hermannsdóttir, 65, widowed and facing retirement. Although weary after struggling under the glass ceiling of the Reykjavík Police Force for decades, it still comes as a shock to Hulda when she is asked to take early retirement and release her ongoing cases to her replacement—a much younger man. As meager compensation, she is given permission to look into a cold case file of her own choosing, while

running out the clock on her final week on the job. Hulda immediately knows which case she wants: the supposed suicide of a young Russian woman, an asylum seeker whose body was discovered in the surf near the town of Vík í Mýrdal a mere year ago. In this first book in his new Hulda series, Ragnar Jónasson twists and subverts the traditions of the detective genre in order to present something new and different to even the savviest crime fiction enthusiasts.

HISTORY. A MESS. By Sigrún Pálsdóttir In the archives of an elite European university, an aspiring academic stumbles upon a 365-year-old diary entry that offers proof of the world’s first documented professional female artist. It’s the chance of a lifetime, an opportunity to establish her career at a time when society is ripe for rethinking women’s role in history. Six years and 600 pages later, when she returns to the source that sparked her research, the young academic makes a devastating discovery, the strain of which causes emotional issues from her past to resurface. Struggling to maintain her

composure and too ashamed to seek comfort and guidance from her loved ones, the narrator gradually loses faith in her own senses, causing her narration to spiral out of control. This novel provides a startling insight into the strain and isolation of academia, so that one might wonder whether the author, an Oxford-educated historian and biographer, is exorcising a few personal demons in this, her first work of fiction. Ask any academic and they will tell you that History. A Mess. is a horror story at heart.

THE SAGAS AND SHIT By Grayson Del Faro Most Icelanders first come into contact with the sagas in secondary school—the killing field of great works of literature. As such, their drama, swift violence and oftentimes sordid poetry tend to get lost under teenage scar-tissue left by longwinded sections of Icelandic genealogical history. Enter The Sagas and Shit. Though outwardly vitriolic and puerile, Grayson Del Faro’s obscenity-laden Cliffs Notes to the Icelandic sagas provide succinct summaries as well as the cultural context necessary to aid the immersion of new and old readers. Furthermore, Del Faro’s fondness AUDIO BOOK

for his adopted homeland, where he procured a master’s degree in Old Norse, is evident in his explorations of the love/hate relationship that Icelanders have with the sagas, as well as the tongue-lashing he delivers to marketing forces that use the word Viking to peddle everything from sushi to machismo. In this slim and bawdy book, he commits the high-wire act of both celebrating and demystifying the old texts in a manner that is sure to earn him the ire of the academic field but which will also send scores of new readers saga-ward.

CODEX 1962 By Sjón Brought together in a single volume for its first publication in English, CoDex 1962 contains Icelandic writer and poet Sjón’s magnum opus: a trilogy of novels 25 years in the making. In these three texts, Josef Löwe—narrator, golem and self-confessed fictional construct—recounts his entire life and more, reaching all the way back to the chance meeting of his father and mother in WWII-era Germany and their shaping of his child’s body out of clay. Throughout, his tale twists

and turns to pull in all manners of stories—great mythologies as well as minor incidents. The three books contained herein form a triptych of romance, mystery and science fiction, pulling in references from the annals of folklore, theology, literature and science, as well as pulps, comics, films and music. Together, the trilogy stands as a testament to Sjón’s idea of the novel as the ultimate mode of storytelling, a Legion-like construct that contains within itself all other forms of writing.

Check out which audio books are available on page 82 and on our in-flight entertainment system.

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Reykjavík

HAPPY IN THE HIGH TIDE BY LISA GAIL SHANNEN. PHOTO BY ROMAN GERASYMENKO. Swimming is an integral part of life in Iceland. While most seek the toasty temperatures of geothermally-heated hot tubs and pools, there’s a small but growing community that is keen for the more extreme conditions of the sea. The most popular destination for sea swimming is the Ylströnd geothermal beach at Nauthólsvík in Reykjavík, which has it all: a lagoon of geothermally-heated seawater, hot pots and a steam room to warm up in after a dip in the shivery big blue. With temperatures ranging from just above 32°F (0°C) in the winter and up to 59°F (15°C) in the summer, it’s not for everyone. But those who have the

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mettle for it speak enthusiastically of the health benefits, which are said to include improved circulation and help with anxiety and depression. No wonder they look so happy! Some describe it like a hangover in reverse: a few moments of discomfort followed by an extended, wholesome high. You might run in screaming, but you come out beaming and invigorated to the core. Although sea swimming is a fun and refreshing activity, those who are new to it should never swim alone and should stay close to the shore and recognize the symptoms of hypothermia.

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AFTER THE END OF GAME OF THRONES Kit Harington was part of the hugely popular Game of Thrones for nine years. When his character Jon Snow died, he found it difficult to keep silent about it to all his fans. But now it’s really over: Game of Thrones has come to an end and the 32-year-old actor has moved on, starring in Sam Shepard’s play True West in London. Before that happened, Icelandair Stopover spoke to Kit Harington on the set of the final season of Game of Thrones in Belfast. BY TINA JØHNK CHRISTENSEN. STILL COURTESY OF HBO, PHOTOS COURTESY OF PEGASUS PRODUCTIONS.

We’re in the room where you read the last episodes of Game of Thrones for the first time. What was the atmosphere like? There was a standing ovation and there were tears and I broke down. I just started sobbing and there were a lot of people that were exactly the same. I don’t know what it was, it was just reading the words. Because every year we read “end of season five,” “end of season six,” and this just said: “End of Game of Thrones.” I almost get teary thinking about it. It was like, “Oh f***, it’s done. It’s done.” So how was it reading the final episodes of Game of Thrones? I found this much more emotionally pressing than I thought it was going to be. I kind of think of myself as quite a cynical, realistic, unbothered English man and […] I found it quite an emotional punch to the gut. Not just what happens generally but just kind of reading the final lines and the end of it. I’ve never been on this kind of emotional journey in anything I’ve done.

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How do you feel about it being over now? I feel that some of me is leaving school. That is the closest thing I can feel to it. I’ve never been in an institution this long and there is part of me that is like a teenager just wanting to get out into the real world and the other half of me that feels like I’m tugging on my parents’ apron strings not wanting to leave, and those two things are pulling at each other. But the one thing that I do know and the one thing that all the actors feel, and I think everyone involved feels, is that everything with Game of Thrones felt so right. This feels like the right journey to be finishing it and I feel like I’m very ready for it to end. But I am very sad to see it go. You have been with Jon Snow for such a long time. Are you anything like Jon Snow? And what has he taught you about yourself? I always thought I was like Jon Snow and then [when] we finished, not being him per se anymore, I realized that it was a character that

I was playing. I know it sounds weird but I feel he is not with me anymore and that he is a character in the past. I love him dearly but it is only in finishing that I have kind of realized the kind of heaviness that came with him in my life. As an actor you adopt the characters you play to some extent. If you play a character for nine years and he is always there with you and you go back to him again and again, you adopt some of what he is. I think he is a very heavy and very damaged person and I think it is quite nice not having him with me for a bit. What was your favorite costume from the show? I think in season two it was the lightest. So probably [the costume from] season two. That’s why I was so happy, it seems. I remember that big kind of shaggy one [when] they go off beyond the wall and he has this kind of like ranger’s outfit on. That was pretty cool.

Dimmuborgir n

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Fjallsárlón

What was your favorite season of Game of Thrones? My favorite was season two because of Iceland and because of the storyline in it. I loved it. And because we realized we were sitting on a show that people had responded to and that had been critically acclaimed. It was doing well and we got nominated for an Emmy. Suddenly you were like, “We’ve got liftoff; we’ve got something that works here.” What are some of your favorite memories from shooting Game of Thrones? I met my wife on Game of Thrones [Rose Leslie; Ygritte in the series]. So that is the greatest gift it’s given me. So my favorite memories are from Iceland when we first met. Iceland really is a special kind of place for me. How would you describe Iceland? Iceland is magical. I don’t know what else I can say about it other than that. This year it was like, “Well I definitely won’t be going back there so now maybe I want to buy a place there.” I just can’t let go of that country. I don’t think I ever will. There’s something otherworldly about Iceland, and actually Scandinavian countries in general. I am a real fan because I just love the kind of serenity, especially at this point in my life when everything is hectic. What is so significant about Iceland for you? I think it marked a specific and incredible point in the journey of Game of Thrones for me, when we had the first season come out and it was a success and we were entering the second season and we went on location.

Of course, I had been on location in Belfast, but I went out into a quite unusual and strange and different landscape with the show, and there was something about traveling away from home like on a school trip with this cast and crew, which I was beginning to find were like family. When we were put in a situation with the landscape and the people of Iceland, it takes on a kind of magical quality and those few seasons we were there were some of the fondest of my life. So it will always be synonymous with Game of Thrones and linked to filming in that country and linked to the times that my life was changing quite rapidly.

of so few that you are invited into and the culture is just there. The world is just there. The culture is so defined by the landscape and its weather and its wildness that you just bleed into it.

Did you get to speak the language and learn about the culture? You cannot go to Iceland without learning about the culture. It is there. It’s a population

Bottom: Shooting scenes for season two’s “The Old Gods and the New,” with Kit Harington and Rose Leslie at Svínafellsjökull.

Previous page: From season three, episode one: “Valar Dohaeris,” where a captive Jon Snow is being taken to Mance Rayder— The King Beyond the Wall. Shot in Dimmuborgir, Mývatn. Photo by Helen Sloan. Top: Scene featuring Jon Snow captured by Wildlings shot at Fjallsárlón for “The Prince of Winterfell” episode from season two.

Icelandair Stopover 18

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MY LOCATION:

WATERFALL OF WINTERFELL BY LISA GAIL SHANNEN. STILL COURTESY OF HBO. One of the standout romantic moments from the final season of Game of Thrones was shot on location in South Iceland and stars, among other gorgeous places, the legendary Skógafoss waterfall in all its winter glory. The scene, from the “Winterfell” episode, features Kit Harington as Jon Snow and Emilia Clarke as Daenerys Targaryen taking the dragons for a spin through a series of stunning snow-laden river canyons before landing in front of the spectacular icicle-encrusted waterfall. “We could stay for a thousand years; no one would find us,” exclaims Daenerys. They share a passionate kiss in front of the famous waterfall—augmented for the occasion with extra tiers and torrents in post-production—but before they get the chance to melt the snow, the moment is interrupted by Drogon (the dragon) who seems to be staring intently at them—or is he? Perhaps he spotted the fabled chest of gold, which, according to Icelandic folklore,

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Some of the most romantic scenes from Game of Thrones were shot in Iceland, including Jon Snow and Daenerys Targaryen’s kiss at the half-frozen Skógafoss waterfall. was hidden behind the falls by one of the first settlers of the Skógar area, Þrasi Þórólfsson. While Jon and Daenerys may be oblivious to the treasure behind them, Icelandic location expert from Pegasus Pro ductions, Einar Sveinn Þórðarson, knows a thing or two about spotting treasure: He has now worked as location scout and supervisor on seven seasons of the hit TV show, which came to its epic conclusion earlier this year. Working closely with Executive Producer Bernadette Caulfield and Producer Chris Newman, Einar has scouted a trove of treasured locations for the show, including iconic sites in Þingvellir National Park (“The Bloody Gate”), Mývatn in the North (“Beyond the Wall”) and Dyrhólaey (“Eastwatch by the Sea”). The showrunners, David Benioff and Daniel Weiss, have said the main reason for filming in Iceland is for authenticity purposes, with them preferring natural views over green screen and special effects. The real winter environments—which for season eight were mainly shot in the mountains and canyons above the town of Kirkjubæjarklaustur—

also help the actors: They don’t have to act cold; they really are. Apart from the task of keeping the actors warm between takes, other challenges included dealing with the short daylight hours and weather conditions. During the three-day shoot for season eight “there were only around five hours of daylight to work with,” explains Einar, which meant the crew had to set up in the darkness, and “because we needed as much snow as possible, we had to move much higher into the mountains, which meant we also had to do a lot of snow clearing.” While dealing with shorter days and weather conditions comes with the territory in Iceland, the “great people working on it” made sure it was a “smooth and enjoyable co-operation.” Looking back, it’s been an incredible journey and Einar is proud to have been part of it. “It’s definitely been an adventure and I miss it already. HBO picked a fantastic team, and boy has it paid off! We got the gold!” Above: Daenerys Targaryen invites Jon Snow to keep her warm with a kiss in front of Skógafoss.

Laxnes Horse Farm is a family owned and operated horse farm offering daily tours since 1968. With a wide range of horses we specialize in short and long tours designed to introduce our customers to the amazing, gentle and one of a kind Icelandic horse. Additionally we offer a variety of combination tours letting you get the most out of your day in Iceland. We offer pickup service in Reykjavik and the farm’s easy to find location just outside Reykjavik makes joining our tours easy if you have a car. “The best way to see Icelandic nature is from the back of a horse. Laxnes is our home and with our horses being part of the family our main goal has always been to combine well organized professionalism with a warm and friendly family atmosphere.” Haukur Thorarinsson Manager

Laxnes Horse Farm 271 Mosfellsbær Iceland Tel: +354 566 6179 info@laxnes.is

Qr code to www.laxnes.is

To celebrate our 50th anniversary in 2018 a live size statue of Neisti, our first horse, was commisioned and made by our local workshop Ásgarður which is a protected workplace employing over 30 disabled people and assistants. The workshop outdid themselves this time producing a roughly 500kg three dimensional wooden statue which stands on a 12 metric ton rock unearthed at the farm. The statue of Neisti stands proud and ready like it’s namesake and serves as a constant reminder of what can be accomplished with hard work, fairness and good friends.

CONNECT WITH US Follow, like and subcribe to #laxneshorsefarm on social media

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THERE’S PLENTY MORE FISH IN THE SEA Where to chase piscatorial pleasure across Iceland and how to sample treats from cold coastal waters. BY CAROLYN BAIN. PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE PROPRIETORS.

All that coastline, all those fishing boats! It’s a given that you’re going to eat some fine fresh fish on your travels around Iceland. You may have heard of farm-toplate dining? Iceland does this style of locavore cuisine as second nature—and trust us when we say it’s equally enthu siastic about fishing-boat-to-plate (or bowl, in the form of sensational soups). The time between catching, cooking and eating is sometimes just a matter of hours. Look out for favorites such as cod (in Icelandic, þorskur), delicious Arctic char (bleikja; it’s similar to trout) and haddock (ýsa). For some of great spots for fresh, delicious fish and assorted sea critters, here’s a handy guide. Langoustine You may see lobster soup and other “Ice landic lobster” (humar) dishes on menus around the country. This is actually langous tine, the smaller cousin of the lobster, fished in local waters. Höfn in the southeast of Iceland is the unofficial langoustine capital, and the town celebrates the crustacean with an annual festival each summer. Every menu in town features langoustine in some form or another, from pizza topping to sandwich

21 Icelandair Stopover

filling, but the classic dish of langoustine tails with butter and garlic can’t be beat. Try it in elegant restaurants like Humarhöfnin and Pakkhús, or in sandwich form at the fun local diner, Hafnarbúðin. Other great langoustine haunts include Fjöruborðið, a cozy, unpretentious waterside restaurant in south-coast Stokkseyri (about a one-hour drive from downtown Reykjavík), where the langoustine soup comes with extra magic and a great menu description. In Reykjavík, Sægreifinn (also known as the Sea Baron) by the harbor is justifiably renowned for its rich, creamy soup. Fish Pans Many restaurants have cottoned on to the fact that fresh fish cooked simply and well, without too many bells and whistles, makes diners happy. To that end, they simply pan-fry fish in cast-iron pans that are then brought to the table, together with potatoes and a salad to enjoy. Cod may be simply grilled in butter, or Arctic char with perfect flavoring such as honey, almonds and cherry tomatoes. Fish served in this manner is found in quality restaurants around the country, including the rustic Messinn in Reykjavík and Noa Seafood in Akureyri. A newer place to discover is the

Bait Shack or Beituskúrinn), which brings a touch of New England to Neskaupstaður in East Iceland. In the Westfjords, the ultimate fishy destination is Tjöruhúsið in Ísafjörður, where a cozy wooden building from 1782 houses a family-run restaurant that lays on a buffet of fish pans—all the better for tasting a variety of creations, from a signature wolffish dish with cream cheese, capers, mushrooms, and grapes, to delicious cod cheeks in butter and garlic. Sushi Access to all that fresh fish makes for some fine sushi (fun fact: Iceland grows fresh wasabi), and one of the best places in the country to sample local seafood with a modern Japanese twist is in the East, in the charming town of Seyðisfjörður. At Norð Austur, open in summer, the fish lands straight off the boat and into the hands of an internationally trained sushi chef. The aesthetics (of both the dishes and the restaurant) are first-class, and the sake, botanical cocktails and Japanese beers belie the far-flung locale. In the capital, a few high-class places fight for your attention with super sushi, including Fiskmarkaðurinn (also known as the Fish

Market) and Fiskfélagið (Fish Company), where tasting menus take the pain out of choosing and options run beyond sushi to cover impeccable local fish, meat and other flavors. Sushi Social is also a fun option, a fusion of Japan meets South America (sounds odd, but it works!). Mussels Locally harvested blue-shell mussels draw diners to charming Stykkishólmur, on the Snæfellsnes peninsula in West Iceland. Narfeyrarstofa and the more casual Sjávar pakkhúsið both take the provenance of their food seriously, with menus bursting with local specialties and fresh-from-the-bay goodness. Fishy Tours Sure, a restaurant meal of fresh fish is a delight, but nothing beats fishing for your own dinner. Sea-angling trips are available in a few towns around Iceland, including Reykjavík, where a handful of tour companies will take you out to sea with the required gear and will barbecue your catch on board. In Dalvík in North Iceland, you can combine whale-watching with a little sea-fishing. From Stykkishólmur, “Viking Sushi” summer boat tours go out exploring islands, birdlife and scenery, and a net drags up shellfish

to sample raw (including scallops and sea urchins). Landlubbers and fans of slow travel might prefer the “Seafood Trail,” a guided gourmet walking tour around Suðureyri, a remote and beautifully sited fishing village in the West fjords. The company running the tours is simply called Fisherman—they have a store in Reykjavík too. Previous page: Local catch with Japanese flair at Norð Austur. Photo courtesy of Norð Austur. Top, left and right, and bottom center: The fresh haul on board the Viking Sushi boat tour. Photo courtesy of Seatours Eimskip. Bottom left: Fish pan from The Bait Shack. Photo by Hákon Guðröðarson. Bottom right: Local Atlantic rock crab at Sjávarpakkhúsið. Photo by Hjördis Eyþórsdóttir.

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3 4

5 6

7 2

1 10

CATCH OF THE DAY ACROSS THE COUNTRY 1. Reykjavík Trawl the capital for piscatorial riches.

2. Stykkishólmur Mussels and treats from (and on) Breiðafjörður.

3. Suðureyri Explore fishing-village life in this scenic outpost.

4. Ísafjörður Sample a bountiful fish buffet.

6. Akureyri Fresh fishy business in the town’s restaurants.

7. Seyðisfjörður Quite the surprise: one of the country’s best sushi options.

8. Neskaupstaður As far east as you can get, with rustic flavor on a view-filled deck.

9. Höfn All the langoustine your heart desires.

5. Dalvík Scenery aplenty, plus whalewatching and sea-fishing.

10. Stokkseyri Magical soup and classic crustacean fare.

Above: Nautical vibes at The Bait Shack, Neskaupstaður. Right: The Bait Shack’s fish pan. Both photos by Hákon Guðröðarson.

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carpets and other textiles. Bracenets are manufactured by hand in the company’s own workshop in the heart of Hamburg in Germany. Furthermore, four workshops of people with disabilities are supporting Bracenet. For every Bracenet sold on board, the company donates 1% of profits to their partner organization NGO Healthy Seas. The donations finance the recovery of the nets, the divers’ equipment, and everything that is needed for the fight against ghost nets. The overarching goal of the joint venture of Bracenet, Healthy Seas, Ghost Fishing and Nofir is to clean the oceans, protect the environment and to transform waste to wear.

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Eyjafjörður n Árskógssandur n Hjalteyri nn

GETTING INTO HOT— AND COLD—WATER Some of Iceland’s top spas and scuba diving spots are found in the North. “I want you to meet Stephanie. I spend a lot of time with her—she’s mostly the reason that my wife and I split up,” Erlendur Bogason said with such steely stoicism I was only half-sure he was joking. “She’s my pet wolffish,” he added with a smirk, pointing to the water out the window where she lives. Erlendur is the custodian of three delicate chimneys, called strýtur, in Eyjafjörður, one of Iceland’s longest fjords, taking eager scuba divers like me deep below the sea to mingle with legions of spawning cod and explore Stephanie’s rock garden—true to her reputation, she found a cozy spot between my legs as we knelt on the ocean’s sandy floor.

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Grímsey n

Húsavík

Akureyri

BY BRANDON PRESSER. PHOTOS BY BRANDON PRESSER AND ERLENDUR BOGASON / STRÝTAN DIVECENTER. Erlendur’s outfit, the aptly named Strýtan Divecenter, offers diving courses and tours from Hjalteyri, near Akureyri, North Iceland’s largest town. And the hallmark experience is witnessing the strýtur’s awesome, ancient power—imagine: As you venture deeper, the icy water begins to warm. As a child, Erlendur heard stories of strange protrusions in the sea from sailors measuring their fishing grounds—20 years ago he helped discover the hydrothermal conduits connecting the surface of the planet to the center of the earth, pumping up hot water that scientists believe to be over 10,000 years old.

Up the road in Árskógssandur, you’ll find Bruggsmiðjan, the nation’s first microbrewery, which started serving Kaldi, its wildly popular beer, in 2006. Originally an idea spawned from a news report about craft draughts in Czechia, Bruggsmiðjan’s founders recently returned to Eastern Europe to garner inspiration for their next concept: beer baths. Turns out a concoction that may not be so good for the liver does wonders for the skin—guests soak in a mixture of the area’s legendary mineral water topped off with live yeast cultures, hops and gallons of beer in its earliest stages of fermentation at Bjórböðin Spa. You can also enjoy a cold one the old-fashioned way in a pint glass to help wash down some delectable lamb or Arctic char at the onsite restaurant. And for those who are less inclined to suds up in a tub of ale, there are oversized barrel kegs on the fjord-side patio, filled to the brim with good ’ole H2O from a nearby spring.

On the far side of Eyjafjörður—plus an hour’s drive further beyond—is the coastal village of Húsavík, where hot-water wellness is brewed in a completely different manner. Long famous as Iceland’s whale-watching hub due to the scores of minke and humpback whales that congregate in Skjálfandi bay, the port town is now earning a second reputation as a haven for thalassotherapy. Developed on the western shores of France, the warming of seawater has been proven to have ame liorative effects on conditions as varying as joint pain and weight loss.

Previous page: Scuba diving around Strýtan. Photo by Erlendur Bogason. Clockwise from top left: A warm soak in Hjalteyri after a chilly dive; a beer bath; sunset at Geosea (photos by Brandon Presser); Stephanie the wolffish (photo by Erlendur Bogason).

The hot pools at Húsavík’s Geosea could be considered doubly potent, as the healing properties of hot ocean water are combined with the rich mineral outpouring from a local geothermal source. Perched on a grassy hill overlooking the bay, Geosea is best visited around sunset (or as late as possible during the weeks of endless daylight) as the soft

Icelandair Stopover 28

glow of golden hour seemingly glitters all the way to the North Pole. There’s only one piece of the land of fire and ice, however, that truly protrudes beyond the Arctic Circle—the offshore islet of Grímsey, a community of hardy fisherfolk living in a time-warped version of Iceland from 40 years ago. Just 2 square miles (5.3 km2) in size, Grímsey’s huddle of wind-battered abodes is home to a human population that’s far outnumbered by its roaring colonies of kittiwakes, guillemots, puffins and terns. Most travelers only come for the afternoon to snap selfies at the erroneously placed Arctic Circle monument. The real magic, however, happens after the day-trippers leave—especially under the infinite rays of summer sun that illuminate Iceland’s distant northern crest and give the island’s nestriddled coves a blue-green Caribbean tint. Arctic Trip, run by Halla Ingólfsdóttir and her family, welcomes overnight guests to the

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island and promises one of the most unique swimming experiences on the planet—no curious wolffish are involved—on Grímsey you snorkel with... birds. Patience and perseverance are necessary virtues for a successful dive, but once you get the hang of the stillness required to float under the avian colonies, you’ll soon be sideby-side with gulls pummeling the ocean’s surface in search of small fish. Stories about the perilous task of egg gathering and tales of Grímsey’s unusual history—including why every household has a chess board—are duly offered after a hot shower and a tea. And Halla’s desire to bridge the gap between the Arctic realms of land and sea is helping bolster Erlendur’s continued underwater analyses as he moves beyond studying the strýtur formations. Many of his recent surveys have targeted the Atlantic wolffish—in Iceland they’re called steinbítur, or “stone biters,” and don’t make for very

comely girlfriends with their snarled jowls of overgrown teeth. Over the last few years, Erlendur has become one of the world’s leading researchers of the bottomfeeding species, a creature that has largely eluded scientists as they tend to hide between rocky outcrops in near-freezing temperatures. He is now one of the key individuals in successfully documenting the mating and maturing trends of this elusive fish. Recently he figured out that his dear Stephanie was actually a Stephan. Clockwise from top left: Diving around Eyjafjörður’s geothermal chimneys (photo by Erlendur Bogason); Grímsey’s bird cliffs; Swimming with the birds around Grímsey. Photos by Brandon Presser. Air Iceland Connect offers multiple daily flights from Reykjavík Domestic Airport to Akureyri with continuing service onto Grímsey. There is also a ferry connection from Dalvík.

ALREADY LIVING THE CHILDHOOD DREAM Arnór Sigurðsson, the youngest Icelander to play and score in the Champions League, is one of the faces of the future for the men’s national team. It’s December 12 and most teenagers in Iceland are cramming for their Christmas exams. A 19-year-old from Akranes, however, is lacing up his boots before the biggest game of his life. His team, CSKA Moscow, is about to face Real Madrid at the Santiago Bernabéu Stadium. Ninety minutes later, the young midfielder has not only added an assist to his name but also a neat goal to seal a 3-0 victory over the Spanish dynasty. In just over two years, Arnór Sigurðsson has gone from being just a promising kid at his childhood club in Akranes to the youngest Icelander to play and score in the Champions League, and a regular for the men’s national team. A year ago, you were slowly moving up in the football world in your first season as a pro for IFK Norrköping in Sweden. Then CSKA came along and signed you for EUR 4,000,000, which led to your “breakout season.” How has the roller coaster ride been? When I signed with CSKA last summer, my hopes weren’t too high, I was just determined to give it my best and see what kind of a role I would get in return. I was on the bench in my first match with the

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BY EINAR LÖVDAHL. PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE FOOTBALL ASSOCIATION OF ICELAND AND DENIS TYRIN / PFC CSKA.

team but since then I’ve played in every match, when I was match fit. The club has put a lot of trust in me, which is a great feeling. Since joining CSKA you’ve made a name for yourself in Russia and even the Champions League. Have you ever had to convince yourself that you’re not dreaming? My first game for CSKA was actually in the Champions League so it all started with a bang. From that moment on, I just played game after game and never really took a moment to think about what I had achieved. It wasn’t until I went away on Christmas break, straight after the game against Real Madrid, that it really sunk in. But all that showed me how focused I’d been the whole time. I hadn’t realized that I was already living my childhood dream. Last December you netted a goal and got an assist against Real Madrid, arguably the biggest club in the world. How would you describe that evening? It was the best night of my life, thus far. I think I barely got 10 minutes of sleep after the game. My phone kept beeping through the night and

on top of that I could hardly lie still because of the adrenaline rush. I invited my whole family to the game, and to achieve this with six familiar faces in the stands was unbeliev able. They decided to attend this exact game before I had even played my first game for CSKA, so at the time we had no idea whether I would even participate in the match. How it all played out was extra, extra sweet.

How has joining the squad been? The recent games have been challenging for the team, but for me personally it has been inspiring and I have already learned a lot from the older players. You can really feel that this is a team which has been to two major tournaments and also how eager the guys are to qualify for another one—the 2020 Euros. And that kind of mentality is contagious.

How do you keep your feet on the ground after such an evening? Even though I’m confident in my own ability, I’ve always been pretty down to earth. I guess it’s just the way I was raised. If I do something good on the pitch, I always call my parents afterwards, and they have a knack for praising my performance but also keeping me levelheaded. It’s important to keep both feet on the ground, even though things are going well, in order to stay motivated.

In June, the national team beat both Albania and Turkey in two massive games in the UEFA Euro 2020 Qualifiers. What was the key to bouncing back from the 4-0 loss against France in March? I think we all just knew how important these games were. They were must-win games for us if we’re going to reach our goal—to qualify for the 2020 Euros—and that motivated us all. As soon as the squad met up for preparation, you could feel how everyone was ready to give everything they had to get those six points. To get my first game with the team on our home ground, Laugardalsvöllur, on top of a win, was yet another dream come true.

The Icelandic men’s national team has been historically successful in the last couple of years, and last November you were called up to the squad for the first time. How was that? Being selected was such an honor. It was one of the long-term goals on my list—which are the sweetest ones to check off—and to be able to do that at only 19 was huge for me. If you’d have asked me two years ago, I think I would never have realistically thought I would have come this far by now.

We’re less than a year away from the opening match of the Euros. Are you already envisioning yourself playing at your first major tournament, granted that we qualify? I can’t say I’ve really thought of that, how short or far away the tournament is, since it’s important not to get ahead of yourself. We’ll

simply play one match at a time and to reach our goal we’ll have to repeat what we did in the last two games. We’ll have to play to our strengths and hopefully that will lead to us playing in the Euros once again. You still have four years left on your contract with CSKA. Can you tell me anything about your future? I’m in a great place at the moment and in no hurry, but one of my long-term goals is to play for a big club in a bigger league one day. Until that happens, I will stay focused on my current challenges. Previous page: Celebrating an important goal against Zenit with teammate Fyodor Chalov. Photo by Denis Tyrin. Left: Battling Raphaël Varane, Real Madrid’s renowned defender. Photo by Denis Tyrin. Top right: There were plenty of reasons to celebrate last season. Photo by Denis Tyrin. Bottom right: Arnór broke into Iceland’s first team in November and hasn’t looked back since. Photo courtesy of the Football Association of Iceland. Icelandair is a proud sponsor of the Icelandic national football teams.

Icelandair Stopover 32

CULTURE EXPRESS Bus No. 1 drives past some of Iceland’s primary cultural institutions before taking you on a magical tour of suburban surprises. There’s more to Iceland’s capital area than downtown Reykjavík. A short bicycle or bus ride away you’ll find five charming towns, each with their own characteristics and special attractions. Bus No. 1 takes you to three of these in only about 30 minutes from the city. Culture Hill Enjoy the 20-minute ride past some of the most notable cultural institutions in central Reykjavík before disembarking at Hamraborg. Perched on a hill, this is the center of Kópa vogur, which with almost 40,000 inhabitants is Iceland’s second-largest urban settlement after Reykjavík. Right next to a graffiti splattered underpass where Icelandic punk was born stand the town’s Culture Houses. Today, there is no punk in sight, but kids are cheerfully jumping on a huge bouncy mat. This place is frequented by families, not least because a dive into culture can easily be combined with one in the swimming pool down the street.

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BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTOS BY RAGNAR TH. SIGURÐSSON, COURTESY OF VISIT REYKJAVÍK.

The Natural History Museum boasts a collection of nearly 70 stuffed birds—including an intimidating eagle and elusive snowy owl— as well as Arctic foxes, a seal and an orca skeleton. Curious ocean creatures are on display, too, and a separate room is reserved for geology. An orienteering game for families makes the museum even more fun to explore. For a hearty dose of music, visitors to the Culture Houses can come listen to free jazz concerts in a relaxed atmosphere in the lounge outside Salurinn concert hall on Thursdays this summer. No one needs to go hungry either, for local hangout Pure Deli serves salads, wraps and other treats. A treat for other senses is Kópavogur Art Museum, Gerðarsafn, dedicated to Gerður Helgadóttir (1928–1975), an Icelandic pioneer of three-dimensional abstract art and glass art. (Gerður made the distinct stained windows of the stately Kópavogskirkja church,

positioned on the top of the hill.) As Iceland’s only art museum named after a woman, female artists are highlighted in its exhibitions. In “Outline,” running through September 8, artwork of various media— including works by Rúrí, Theresa Himmer and Gerður herself—are displayed and the lines that define them compared. In an old storage space nearby is gallery Midpunkt, where up-and-coming artists exhibit their progressive work. Suburban Secret Jump back on bus No. 1 and head deeper into suburbia. After a mere five-minute ride, disembark at Ásgarður, pass through a subway and stroll towards Garðatorg, the main square of Garðabær, which roughly 15,000 people call home.

(Continues on page 34.)

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Here, the Museum of Design and Applied Art surprises with ambitious exhibitions tracing the story of Icelandic design, currently focusing on ceramics, which are being categorized and registered by museum staff. Also on show this summer is “Urban Shape” by Paolo Gianfrancesco, examining city maps from around the world. In an open workshop, visitors can observe designers in action and purchase quality design items in the gift shop. Across the square is Mathús Garðabæjar, one of the hottest eateries in the capital area. Loved by locals, the family-friendly restaurant has varied and tempting brunch, bistro and dinner menus, as well as an impressive selection of beers on tap. Protruding into the sea is Álftanes—dubbed “Presidential Peninsula,” for this is where Bessastaðir, the presidential residence is located— also a part of Garðabær. Walking paths lead along the seashore, past historical buildings, and to birdwatching hotspots. Álftanes also has Iceland’s only swimming pool with artificial waves! Harbor Village Continue on bus No. 1 and in about five minutes you’ll arrive in Fjörður. This is the center of Hafnarfjörður, a town of 30,000 people, known for elf sightseeing and Viking-style feasts and festivals. But those are only two of its many attractions.

in their homes. Heart of Hafnarfjörður is a three-day music festival held in early July. Artists hang out at Súfistinn, a café that has been around for decades and which is also a favorite among locals. The old town is characterized by cute corrugated-iron houses, quaint little design shops, secondhand stores and a lively harbor. The catch of the day is best enjoyed in Tilveran, while Krydd, housed in Hafnarborg – the Hafnarfjörður Centre of Culture and Fine Art, has a more diverse menu. Located in a former drugstore, Hafnarborg focuses on contemporary art. This summer’s exhibition explores the contrast between photographs of the town’s modern cityscape and old romantic paintings. With mobile walls and outstanding acoustics, the center doubles as a concert hall. Further down the road are two hip hangouts: Von Mathús & Bar, with passion for seasonal cooking, and homey café Pallett. Íshús Hafnarfjarðar, a defunct freezing plant, where artists and designers have taken up shop lies across the street. On the upper floor is the country’s largest ceramic workshop. On special occasions, visitors can tour the building. Lose yourself in suburbia or limit your stay to a few hours—options are best explored on visitreykjavik.is. Bus No. 1 will bring you safely back to Reykjavík. Page 32: Kópavogskirkja church.

In Hafnarfjörður Museum, one can journey into the past on a tour of old buildings of different purposes, which have been preserved with their original interior. Bæjarbíó is the oldest-running movie theater in Iceland. It is now a popular concert venue among Icelandic musicians, also occasionally screening family classics and providing a stage for smaller theater groups. Hafnarfjörður hosts an annual music festival called Heima in April, when residents invite visitors to intimate concerts

35 Icelandair Stopover

Left: Hafnarfjörður harbor. Top right: Bessastaðir in Álftanes. Bottom right: The Museum of Design and Applied Art.

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Icelandair Stopover 36

SILENT SCREAM Based on true events, feature film Let Me Fall exposes the horrors drug users face on the flip side of Icelandic society. BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. STILLS AND PHOTOS COURTESY OF KISI PRODUCTIONS. Top: Magnea (right) comforts a distraught Stella.

“It’s supposed to crush you. I’m thrilled if it deprives you of sleep!” declares Baldvin Zophoníasson, director of Let Me Fall (Lof mér að falla). The horror story of drug addiction shocked and saddened 54,000 Icelandic moviegoers after its release in 2018. Only Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again sold more tickets that year. Baldvin and fellow writer Birgir Örn Steinarsson spent seven years writing the screenplay, based on the experiences of several women who have fallen victim to drug addiction. Their stories are told through the film’s main characters, Magnea and Stella. Viewers meet them as troubled teenagers, then follow their destructive relationship and downward spiral into addiction. A curious 15-year-old, Magnea is attracted to the older and tougher Stella, who lures her away from her loving family, loyal friends, sport and schoolwork. Magnea drops everything for the more exciting world of partying, pillpopping and petty crimes. As her parents start losing their grip, Stella tightens hers, and eventually there is no turning back. The years pass by in oblivion. When the two lovers become separated, Magnea sinks deeper into the world of drugs and sex abuse while Stella manages to claw her way out and clean up her act. Twelve years later, a chance re-encounter proves fateful for both of them. Baldvin has described the film as a love story above anything else: “A beautiful story in an ugly world.” Deep End of the Pool At its center are two young and inexperienced actors: Elín Sif Halldórsdóttir (Magnea) and Eyrún Björk Jakobsdóttir (Stella). Baldvin “discovered” Elín when she performed in the

37 Icelandair Stopover

2015 Eurovision preliminaries. “What really caught my attention was the video played before her performance. She danced ballet and totally left me charmed.” Baldvin asked Elín to play a role in his TV series Case—and she passed the “test.” Others auditioned for the role of Magnea, too, but it quickly became clear that it was meant for Elín, who was 18 at the time and still in junior college. “My parents said ‘no’ at first. They weren’t sure that it was a good idea, whether I would be able to handle it. But then they got to know Baldvin and were told that if anyone was able to do this well and take care with sensitive scenes, it would be him.” When casting for the role of Stella, Baldvin wanted Elín to sit in on all auditions to make sure she and her co-star would click. “Eyrún was in fact the only girl who came in for the audition who didn’t try to force herself into the role. The acting came naturally. I saw that this could be a beautiful relationship.” The young actors jumped straight into the deep end of the pool. “Elín and I had to French kiss in the first training session and I also had to French kiss Bjartur!” Eyrún says of Sigurbjartur Atlason, who plays Toni, Stella’s boyfriend. Eyrún loved the acting experience. “When I was in the bus in the morning, having makeup applied, I thought to myself: ‘This is something I could do forever!’ I couldn’t believe that work could be so much fun. I truly appreciated working in such a small team—we became like family—and taking part in creating something like this.” Elín adds that the atmosphere on set had been so friendly that they hadn’t realized how dark the film would turn out until they saw it in full for the first time at the premiere. “We

were wrapped up in cotton,” she explains. Both Elín and Eyrún want to study acting and Elín is also pursuing a career in music. The Unseen and Unheard At the 2019 EDDA Icelandic Film Awards, Let Me Fall was nominated in 12 categories, including for Best Film, Best Screenplay and Best Director. Elín was nominated as Best Actor in a Leading Role, and Kristín Þóra Haraldsdóttir (older Magnea), Lára Jóhanna Jónsdóttir (older Stella) and Þorsteinn Bachmann (Magnea’s father) as Best Actors in a Supporting Role. The film won four awards, one of which went to Kristín Þóra for her interpretation of the older Magnea. She gave an emotional speech, pleading with authorities to take immediate action to help addicts out of their hopeless situation. “We started writing the screenplay in 2011 following a drug prevention project,” recounts Baldvin. “In hindsight, I think my colleague Sigurbjörg Jónsdóttir was the main influencer.” Sigurbjörg is a talented film editor who worked with Baldvin on his first two feature films—winning an EDDA for Life in a Fishbowl in 2015. She was meant to edit Let Me Fall but by then had become a heavy drug user. Sigurbjörg tells her story in documentary Let Me Live (Lof mér að lifa, 2018), along with Þóra Björg Sigríðardóttir, on whom Stella’s character is largely based. When asked about the worst thing she did while using, a regretful Þóra responds: “Sell my friend.” Baldvin explains that Þóra was helpful in describing the practicalities of the Icelandic underworld, how drugs are purchased and sold, in what portions, and the lingo used. “Stella isn’t bad. She has lost her way and has become caught up in [the world of drugs], so she does what she has to do,” reasons Eyrún. “There’s no room for ethical values when using.”

Diaries of a Drug Addict Both main characters also have references to the story of Kristín Gerður Guðmundsdóttir, a young woman who committed suicide following years of drug addiction and sex abuse. She kept diaries and her family gave Baldvin permission to read them. He felt captivated by her story. “I was determined to make it public and open people’s eyes to the reality of women in her situation. The truth is that they are abused by men who are not using, who take advantage of these women.” Some scenes are exactly like Kristín Gerður describes them. “The only scenes which aren’t exactly the same are when we had to soften them,” informs Baldvin. In 2010, Sigrún Mjöll Jóhannesdóttir became the youngest person to die of an overdose in Iceland at only 17. “In every photograph I’ve seen of Sigrún I don’t see a user. I only see a sweet, innocent girl,” says Baldvin. Her father, television reporter and editor Jóhannes Kr. Kristjánsson, became involved early on and he put Baldvin in touch with some of his sources. In Let Me Fall, one of the characters suffers the same fate as Sigrún, but she was also the main inspiration for Magnea’s character. Her relationship

with her father is to a large extent based on Jóhannes’s experience. There are hints in the film that Stella had a traumatic past, but Magnea seems to have had a healthy upbringing—and still she ended up on the street. “She is looking for herself, for recognition and attention,” explains Baldvin, stressing, “The trauma that happens after she starts using was enough to turn her into a street person. You may have raised your child well, there may not have been any neglect, but this world is ugly enough to ruin people.” Baldvin appreciates the attention Let Me Fall has received. “What I want to get out of my films the most is that people watch them and talk about them and remember them. And if they make a difference, that’s a bonus,” he says, concluding, “It gives a voice to people who have none.” Top: On location in Spain. Left: Baldvin directing Eyrún on location in Reykjavík. Right: Kristín Þóra, Lára Jóhanna, Eyrún and Elín at Toronto International Film Festival.

You can watch Let Me Fall on board this flight. Check out which other films and TV shows are available on page 82 and on our in-flight entertainment system.

Icelandair Stopover 38

IT’S A WIN FOR BLÓÐMÖR! BY LISA GAIL SHANNEN. PHOTO BY ROMAN GERASYMENKO. Teenage band Blóðmör took the win at this year’s Iceland Music Experiments (Músíktilraunir), a battle-of-the-bands kind of competition for young musicians. Blóðmör are joining an impressive list of musical alumni, including Jónsi from Sigur Rós and Of Monsters and Men. The band was formed in Kópavogur in 2016 by three childhood friends: guitarist and singer, Haukur Þór Valdimarsson (17); bass player and singer, Matthías Stefánsson (16); and drummer, Ísak Þorsteinsson (18). They won over the panel of judges with their superb delivery of fast and groovy punk metal (also known in Iceland as graðhestarokk, “horny stallion rock”). The first prize earned them studio time, flights with Icelandair and the opportunity to perform at festivals in Iceland and abroad—including Iceland Airwaves in November. Congratulations on your win! You looked utterly shocked when they announced it. How did it feel? Winning felt amazing! We really didn’t believe it at first and it took us a long time to finally get up on the stage. What does the name of your band Blóðmör mean and how did you come up with it? The name is from an old traditional Icelandic food which means “blood sausage.” Our

39 Icelandair Stopover

Their music may sound dark, but the three tight-knit friends who won this year’s Iceland Music Experiments say that they just like to “hang out, make music and have fun.”

guitarist and his mom were out driving and discussing band names. Haukur started talking about a band called Bloodbath, a death metal band. She instantly suggested “Blóðmör,” and it stuck. Any influences? [Our drummer] Ísak’s inspirations include the drummer from Utangarðsmenn [Maggi Stef], Sepultura, Acid Bath and Pantera. Haukur is mostly into old Icelandic punk, Fræbbblarnir, Purrkur Pillnikk, HAM and such, which were around in the early ’80s and made very raw, quality punk. He is also into black metal. Matthías listens to the heaviest music, bands like Autopsy, Skinless, Dying Fetus and even Cryptopsy. This difference in musical taste plays a huge role in our sound. Do you all take part in the writing process? All of our songs are written by Haukur, but then Ísak always does his own drum fills and Matthías often writes his own bass lines. What subjects inspire your songwriting? It’s hard to pinpoint one exact answer. If we find weird things we always go, “We should write a song about that!” Líkþorn [“corn,” was voted] the ugliest word [in the Icelandic language]; it was too good not to write about, because lík means “dead body,” and þorn

means “dry.” It should mean something nasty, but it doesn’t, so it also has a goofy side to it. We also have a song called “Stelpur fara saman á klósettið,” meaning “Girls Go to the Restroom Together,” which is about a guy wondering why they do that and what they are doing in there. What does winning the Iceland Music Experiments mean to you? It gave us tons of media coverage and allowed us to boost our career as a band, and it’s a huge advantage in terms of spreading out our music and getting noticed by the public, which means a lot to us, since we are just three guys who like to jam sometimes. What are you looking forward to most in the coming months? We are releasing an EP called Líkþorn very soon. We have many gigs, very big ones for a band like us. We are talking Secret Solstice, Iceland Airwaves and a festival in the Netherlands. This is all pretty over-whelming but also incredibly exciting. Top: Blóðmör perform title track “Líkþorn” from their upcoming EP at the Iceland Music Experiments. Icelandair is a proud sponsor of the Iceland Music Experiments and Iceland Airwaves.

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Hvammstangi

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

Recently opening on June 8, the Arctic Coast Way marks the first official tourist route in Iceland.

Travelers to Iceland may be familiar with the south coast, but this summer, North Iceland is getting well-deserved attention with a new initiative highlighting the region’s uniqueness. The Arctic Coast Way (Norður-strandarleið), is a 560-mile (900-km) driving route that winds through fjords from Hvammstangi to Bakkafjörður and through 21 fishing villages. The route just opened but has already earned third place on Lonely Planet’s Best in Europe 2019 list.

off to a mix of paved and gravel roads. This means that while the route is accessible year-round, certain sections are best suited from spring through autumn.

The Arctic Coast Way marks the first official tourist route in Iceland. Tourist routes are specially designated areas that lead visitors through remote destinations. The concept for the Arctic Coast Way was based on popular coastal routes, but what makes the Arctic Coast Way unique is that it was built to focus on experiences, with sections of the route representing the themes of sagas, fishing towns and nature. Fast-paced travelers can drive the length of the Arctic Coast Way in a day, but it’s best savored at a slower pace by stopping along the route and staying in some of the fishing villages. The route is literally off the beaten path—instead of following Route 1 (the Ring Road), it turns

41 Icelandair Stopover

BY MICHELLE SPINEI. PHOTOS COURTESY OF VISIT NORTH ICELAND.

The official opening ceremony and ribbon cutting took place on June 8, World Ocean Day, at each of the route’s starting points. It was the first chance for the public to see the road signs with the Arctic Coast Way logo that designate the route. Celebrations, held along the coastline, included beach cleanups, sailing, hikes, a paddle boat tour and the grand opening of Hótel Dalvík. Notable highlights to explore on the route include a stop in Hvammstangi at the Ice landic Seal Center to learn about North Atlantic and Arctic seals followed by a sealwatching tour to get an up-close view of seal colonies. For a unique spa experience, head to Bjórböðin spa in Árskógssandur, the first beer spa in Iceland where visitors can relax in wooden bathtubs of beer. For birdwatchers, the island of Grímsey, the northernmost inhabited point of Iceland, is a three-hour ferry trip away and is home to a sizable bird population. The island is also notable for

being the part of the country that crosses the Arctic Circle and is therefore a perfect place to experience the midnight sun. The charming town of Húsavík is known for its whale-watching tours and it’s also the oldest settlement in Iceland. A road trip on the Arctic Coast Way is a great chance to see wildlife, dip into geo thermal pools, and take part in adventure activities like hiking, boating and horse riding surrounded by views of sea and mountains. While you may not see as many tourists in this part of Iceland, the mix of colorful culture and breathtaking landscapes is sure to make this a road trip to remember. Top: Riding Icelandic horses on a smooth sand beach is a magical experience. Left: Driftwood commonly washes up on North Iceland’s shores—Drangey island graces the horizon. Right: Kayaking and whale watching are just two of the many activities available along the Arctic Coast Way.

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The Golden Circle & Friðheimar

South Shore Adventure

SRE74

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YOU CAN BUY TOURS ON THIS FLIGHT! Our brochure is located in the seat pocket in front of you!

The Lava Tunnel

- Caving in Raufarhólshellir

Free WiFi USB Port IN SELECTED VEHICLES

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BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík

A THOUSAND WORDS Please note that by using the #MyStopover hashtag, you are granting us permission to use your image in our magazine or on our social media channels.

Join us

Thanks to Instagram, Facebook and Twitter, you can share your travel experience with the world. Check out this selection of recent images from our passengers who tagged their pictures with the #MyStopover tag. Pretty great, right? In upcoming issues, we will feature the best pics by users who include the #MyStopover tag. Happy snapping!

Streets of Reykjavik I soniac_fiona I Sónia Rosa Garcia Fernandes Cântara

Næsta stopp Svíþjóð I rikhardurolafs I Ríkharður Daði Ólafsson

Playing hide and seek with a seal at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. The best game ever. I nathalie.cdec I Nathalie Cordier de Croust

The return view from Glymur Falls I joisaclop I Jose Lopez

It had been a while since I had the camera out, but Hekla Aurora of Icelandair on a beautiful evening at @mspairport was a great reason to change that. I tjo4 I TJ O’Keefe

They like risks. I already like them. I giantkrak3n I Guillaume Renard

Just hop on a dragon (like Jon Snow and Dany did on #GOT season 8, ep.1), and fly to this waterfall. I whitneyharrodmorris I Whitney Harrod Morris

43 Icelandair Stopover

Hot water inside the earth I jordy9686 I Andrea Giordani

Get you someone who looks at you the way Adam looks at a mini iceberg I atsullll I Annie Sullivan

Majulah Puffin! The picture was taken on 26 May 2019 at nearshore water of Akurey Island, which is a few kilometers away from Reykjavík Harbour. In summer, puffins go to coastal cliffs or uninhabited islands to reproduce. I ky168bp I Justin Qian

E decorating the airplane window, with the stickers she got from @icelandair I mariafonn I María Fönn Thorsdottir

We’ve taken the Iron Throne I lynscp I Lynsey Pilgrim

Grilled Atlantic Char with garlic parsley remoulade and grilled root vegetables I cc_scrumpulescent I Caroline Casanova

Day 2 adventures bring us more waterfalls, geothermal pools in 50 degree weather, hiking, scenic roads, a stop at a cemetery and back to town for Icelandic Cod fish and chips. I ridersj_shelly_rider I Shelly Rider

Lots of driving, but the amazing scenery makes it so enjoyable sinnafuglen I Elisabeth Berentzen

2 flights. 6 hour time difference. It is currently 7:25 am. GOOD MORNING ICELAND! I whitneyryphoto I Whitney Buettner

Icelandair Stopover 44

Húsavík

DINOSAUR OF THE DEEP Searching for Earth’s largest animal in Iceland’s whalewatching capital. BY EGILL BJARNASON. PHOTOS BY EGILL BJARNASON AND COURTESY OF NORTH SAILING. Húsavík is a town of one harbor, four whalewatching companies and a population that weighs about the same as the blue whale. And that’s not because the 2,000 people who live in Húsavík are exceptionally slim: Averaging 155 tons, the blue whale is biblically big! It’s the approximate length of a Boeing 737 aircraft and has a heart the size of a Volkswagen. Impressed already? Its veins are wide enough to room a water slide. Mystery Whale Arrives About a thousand blue whales are estimated to live in the North Atlantic Ocean. They all lead private and mysterious lives. Marine biologists who make it their life’s mission to study them don’t know, for the most part,

45 Icelandair Stopover

where Earth’s largest animal hangs out and makes love. But one thing has emerged in the past 10 years: The blue whale really, really likes Húsavík, the “whale-watching capital of Europe” by Skjálfandi bay in Northeast Iceland. Researchers have identified 148 individual blue whales in Skjálfandi bay, about 15% of the entire regional population, in the past 10 years. They come to feed, together with other migrant marine mammals, and the most likely time to see them is late-June. But sporadic sightings are made all through summer—the first this season was on May 26. “People don’t always realize how magnificent and special it is to see the blue whale,” says Marianne Helene Rasmussen, a Húsavíkbased research professor at the University of Iceland. “They are possibly the largestever animal to inhabit Earth. Larger than the dinosaurs.” It has always been my dream to see real-life dinosaurs and I reasoned that seeing a blue whale was the closest I could get. Marianne’s first blue whale sighting in Iceland was after a 14-hour whale-watching trip in 2004. Only in the last decade, with changes

in the ocean’s food-web linked to climate change, have the blue whales regularly been spotted in less than a two-hour sailing distance from Húsavík. Hanging Out With Humpbacks According to North Sailing, the oldest whalewatching company in Húsavík, the blue whale is spotted on 2–5% of all tours (about 1,500 in total over the summer). Sightings always come down to luck. The whales need to breathe oxygen at a 20-minute interval, give or take, and that is the whale watchers’ only chance to catch a glimpse of them. Skjálfandi bay is wide and deep and with a delta from a powerful glacier river believed to stir up the ecosystem. Few places in Europe offer the same variety of whale species. The humpback is most common, known for breaching and acrobatic stunts. The orcas usually reside in West Iceland but hunt their northern neighbors on occasions; pods of orcas have attacked and killed a minke in front of whale-watching passengers. Sperm whales and fin whales frequent the popular feeding ground in growing numbers but are still relatively rare. Overall, according to North Sailing’s logbook, whales and dolphins are spotted on about 98% of tours.

In Húsavík you’ll find the ambitious Whale Museum, housed in a renovated slaughterhouse overlooking the harbor. Three years ago, the museum installed a blue whale skeleton recovered from a 2010 corpse found on a remote beach in North Iceland. The whale is displayed upside down, with the rib bones reaching towards the ceiling, and isn’t visible until halfway through the museum. “It catches visitors by a surprise, especially those who are not expecting to see one,” says museum director Eva Björk Káradóttir. Blown Away When the blue whale swims to the surface for a breath, it spouts water 33 ft (10 m) straight up. Late May this year, I set out to experience the majestic sight when joining a whale-watching tour on the old oak ship Sæborgin. Among the 15-some passengers on the boat, I noticed a dedicated German guy with expensive binoculars around his neck. Tour guide Tere Losada told us to actively look out for spouts or a broad, dark back coming up from the surface. These instructions led one couple to eagerly point at a black skerry soon after leaving harbor. I had been tipped off by a possible blue whale sight in the middle of the bay but the guide kept it a secret. She was in

the business of managing expectations until everyone could certainly see it, at least from a distance. The first passenger to spot the geyser-tall spout was the binocular-equipped German, of course. The skipper turned 10 degrees starboard and the next time the whale came up we could all see it a few hundred feet from the ship. Maybe less. I was prepared for the sight—but not the sound. The whale exhaled, inhaled. Pause: Exhaled, inhaled. It sounded human, almost, like some one puffing the chest and then forcing the air out. I held my breath all the while, until the blowhole was under water again. Expanding the Imagination We only saw a slice, the part surrounding the blowhole. The imagination filled out the rest. That is the beauty of whale watching, I find— to have these giants expand the imagination for a short moment. And you wonder, what have they been doing before this? The Icelandic Marine Research Institute has tried attaching trackers to the blue whales of Skjálfandi to see where they spend the remaining 11 months of the year. So far, the trackers have lost signal when the whales

swim out of Icelandic waters. A new method is underway, but until then we can only assume that the whales are all gathered for a karaoke deep in Herman Melville’s watery part of the world. The blue whale I met was heading north, faster than the boat could sail. Like a true performer, it followed the fundamental principle of showmanship: Always leave the audience wanting more. Previous page: Which way to the beach? Húsavík is one of few places in the North Atlantic where the blue whale is regularly spotted close to shore, sometimes within an hour’s sailing distance. Top left: Passengers on the lookout for whales. Photo by Egill Bjarnason. Bottom: A blue whale lifts its fluke going down for a deep dive. Right: The 85-ft (26-m) schooner Hildur observing a pair of the largest animal on Earth.

Icelandair Stopover 46

ICELANDIC FOR BEGINNERS

1,000 years, under 400,000 speakers and 50 words for snow. The Icelandic language is something else.

Fewer than 400,000 people speak Icelandic, a Germanic language that developed from Old Norse, the language of the Vikings. Listening to it is like traveling through time—due to the nation’s geographic isolation and conscious preservation, it has changed remarkably little in the past 1,000 years. Preserved ancient texts— which are still largely intelligible to modern readers—are studied at all school levels, and young and old still enjoy the Icelandic sagas. In Iceland, creating new words for techno logical innovation is a national pastime, especially since the 19th century. Usually they are based on existing ones. • The word for telephone is sími, from an ancient word for long thread. • The word for computer is tölva—a fusion of tala (number) and völva (prophetess).

Lakagígar n

• The word for helicopter is þyrla, from a verb meaning twirl. The Icelandic alphabet has 32 letters, including: • Æ / æ (sometimes written as “ae”) is pronounced like the “i” in tide. • Ð / ð (sometimes written as “d”) is pronounced like the “th” in there. • Þ / þ (sometimes written as “th”) is pronounced like the “th” in think.

snjóhraglandi and hundslappadrífa. For some reason, the most popular one is snjór. Unlike most European languages, there is no formal and informal version of the word you. Simply use þú regardless of whom you are addressing. And make sure to address Icelanders by their first name, even if they’re a music icon (Björk) or the world’s first female president (Vigdís). In fact, our phone book is listed alphabetically by given names.

Of course, Icelanders have selected their favorite word in a national referendum: Ljósmóðir (literally, “mother of light”) is the Icelandic word for midwife.

Icelandic contains approximately 50 words describing different types of snow. These include skæðadrífa, kafaldsmyglingur, él,

Iceland has a strict government-run committee that decides which names are appropriate for giving to newborns.

Above: Volcanic landscape in Lakagígar, in the Highlands of Iceland.

ICELANDIC 101 Hello Sæl (seyel) for addressing a woman Sæll (seyetl) for addressing a man

See you later Sjáumst (syow-umst)

I love you Ég elska þig (yeh elska thih)

Hi Hæ (hi)

Thank you very much Takk fyrir (tahk fe-reer)

My name is Ég heiti (yeh hay-ti)

Good morning / afternoon Góðan daginn (go-than dye-yin)

You’re welcome Það var ekkert (thah vahr ehk-kert)

One hot dog with everything please Eina með öllu, takk (ay-na meth oddlu takk)

Good evening Gott kvöld (goht-kvohld)

Yes Já (yow)

Where can I find… Hvar finn ég... (kvahr finn yeh…)

Good night Góða nótt (go-tha noht)

No Nei (nay)

I don’t speak Icelandic Ég tala ekki íslensku (yeh tah-la eh-kih ees-lensku)

Goodbye Bless (blehss)

Maybe Kannski (kahn-skih)

Bye Bæ (bye)

Okay Allt í lagi (allt ee lye-yih)

47 Icelandair IcelandairStopover Stopover

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37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F)

Stopover 48

CELEBRATING 100 YEARS OF AVIATION At the 2019 Reykjavík Airshow, the 100th anniversary of aviation in Iceland was celebrated with a demonstration of all things airborne. BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. TOP PHOTO BY ROMAN GERASYMENKO. People gasp as the TF-BCX does a vertical climb. The engine dies and the plane seems to drop uncontrollably… until the pilot starts the engine again and continues his aerobatics in the clear blue sky. It’s June 1 and hordes of people have gathered in the sunny weather for the annual Reykjavík Airshow at Reykjavík Airport. This year’s show is extra special, for it’s held in celebration of the 100th anniversary of aviation in Iceland. It was in this very location, Vatnsmýri—where Reykjavík Airport is based—that Iceland’s first airplane, an Avro 504K, took off in September 1919, leaving spectators in awe. The airplane was acquired by the country’s first airline,

49 Icelandair Stopover

Flugfélag Íslands, and was used for air shows and sightseeing for two summers until it was sold in 1920. Icelanders were quick to realize the potential of aviation in a country with settlements scattered around a rugged island deprived of roads, and in 1928, the second Flugfélag Íslands was established. The first passenger flight on a Junkers F-13 seaplane took off from Reykjavík in June that year, making stopovers in Ísafjörður and Siglufjörður before arriving at its final destination in Akur eyri. Now there was no turning back and domestic flights became scheduled. Iceland’s history of international flights goes back to 1937, when Flugfélag Akureyrar, a forerunner to Icelandair, was founded. At the Reykjavík Airshow is a PBY Catalina, an American flying boat, like the ones stationed

in Iceland during World War II, which were also used for passenger flights prior to air ports. Attendees can take a look at it on the ground before watching it fly by. Another historical plane on show is a DC-3, also hugely important to Iceland’s story of aviation. During the four-hour show, the audience is treated to aerobatics of other small aircraft, helicopters, gliders, powered parachutes, a hot air balloon— and a Lamborghini racing a helicopter! But the biggest event—quite literally—is the lowaltitude flight of Icelandair’s Boeing 757. Top: Aerobatics during the 2019 Reykjavík Airshow. Bottom: Iceland’s first airplane in Vatnsmýri in 1919.

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OUR ENCHANTED ICELANDIC WEDDING A lifetime of adventure begins with the adventure of a lifetime in Iceland. BY KIRI BUCHANAN. PHOTOS BY KARISSA POOT PHOTOGRAPHY (FACEBOOK.COM/KARISSAPOOTPHOTOGRAPHY / @KARISSA.RUMPH ON INSTAGRAM)

Imagine: Steam billows across the lagoon. The melodic sounds of guitar and violin blend with the pitter-patter of rain on the water. We stand in front of a rugged cement structure. We look out at our friends and family floating in the tranquil hot pool. The surrounding landscape is illuminated in the soft morning glow from nearby geothermal greenhouses. Our guests are comfortable in the warm water yet refreshed by the cool wind and drizzle. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sensory overload for all. In this haunting setting, we exchange our heartfelt vows. We are completely lost in the moment, enveloped in immeasurable love and beauty.

51 Icelandair Stopover

What I just described was our magical wedding ceremony at Gamla Laugin. A true fairytale. After our ceremony, we set out on the adventure of a lifetime with our family and friends in tow. A classic European-style buffet break fast awaited at the Icelandair Hotel in Flúðir. Our guests received the fuel required to embark on a day filled with exploring—which, in Iceland, is neither for the faint of heart nor the hungry.

Flúðir

Skógafoss n

Dyrhólaey

Icelandair Stopover 52

Next, we stopped at the two thunderous waterfalls on the south coast, Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. The sheer power of Mother Nature left us awestruck. From the promontory of Dyrhólaey, we admired the black sand beaches reaching as far as one can see to the west, the outline of the Reynisdrangar rock formations to the east, and the weathered arch to the south. The views and the wind nearly swept us off of our feet here—yet another demonstration of Mother Nature’s supremacy. Finally, our evening ended at Ströndin Pub in Vík. Reynisdrangar and the black sand beach were our backdrop as we feasted on delicious Icelandic specialties—Arctic char and lamb—surrounded by good cheer and more love than was imaginable. Since visiting Iceland in 2015, I’ve dreamt of getting married there. We wanted to get married somewhere wild, with an effortless and otherworldly beauty. When we started seriously planning our Icelandic wedding getaway, we relied heavily on Icelandic vendors to bring our vision to life. We were struck by the Icelanders’ open-minded, helpful and flexible approach. It was alarming to leave the fate of our wedding to a few emails exchanged overseas. But this created even greater delight when each element of our special day far exceeded our expectations. Page 50: Bridal walk with guests in Gamla Laugin. Previous page: The first kiss. Right: Enjoying the mist of mighty Skógafoss. Bottom right: Slow dance under Skógafoss. Bottom left: The windswept view of Reynisfjara from Dyrhólaey.

53 Icelandair Stopover

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A Golden Circle Adventure The Icelandic animals from Treasure Iceland are best buddies. One of the things they love most is traveling to new places around the country. This time, Freyja the horse takes the gang to her home region, South Iceland.

Comic by Ásta Andrésdóttir and Alfreð I. A. Pétursson. Characters created by KIDZinflight.

The group of friends was bursting with excitement. Today, they were going to explore the natural wonders along the Golden Circle route. WE'LL BE CAMPING AT ÞINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK, BUT FIRST WE'LL STOP BY THE GREAT GEYSIR. IT‛S GOING TO AMAZE YOU, I'M SURE!

GEYSIR MEANS GUSHER… WHY IS THAT? YOU'RE ABOUT TO FIND OUT!

MAYBE I SHOULD HAVE BROUGHT MY RAINCOAT

AT LEAST NOW WE KNOW WHY IT'S CALLED GUSHER!

THIS IS STROKKUR. IT ERUPTS EVERY 10 MINUTES BECAUSE OF NEARBY VOLCANOES THAT HEAT GLACIAL WATER, WHICH THEN ESCAPES THROUGH HOLES IN THE GROUND. THE GREAT GEYSIR HAS NOT BEEN ACTIVE FOR 100 YEARS. ITS ERUPTIONS REACHED AS HIGH AS 230 FEET, THE SIZE OF HALLGRÍMSKIRKJA —ICELAND'S TALLEST CHURCH!

THE ICELANDIC HORSE HAS REMAINED PUREBRED SINCE THE VIKING AGE. ALSO, WE ARE ONE OF VERY FEW EXISTING BREEDS THAT “TÖLT,” WHICH IS A SPED-UP VERSION OF WALKING. WHAT MAKES US UNIQUE IS THAT WE COMPETE IN FIVE DIFFERENT GAITS.

Þingvellir Finally, the gang arrived in Þingvellir and Freyja began to explain its significance. DEERRIN-DEE….

THE WORLD'S OLDEST RUNNING PARLIAMENT WAS FOUNDED HERE IN 930 AD, AND THE LANDSCAPE IS ALSO SPECIAL. THE EARTH'S CRUST IS MADE FROM GIANT PLATES THAT PART AND COLLIDE. ICELAND IS ON SUCH BOUNDARIES, AN UNDERWATER MOUNTAIN RANGE. HERE AND IN AFRICA, IT RISES ABOVE SEA LEVEL, SO WE CAN SEE THE EARTH'S CRACKS WITHOUT GETTING WET!

Mosi turned around and saw a tiny bird appear. It was a golden plover.

OUR ARRIVAL SHOWS THAT SPRING HAS FINALLY ARRIVED, AND THEREFORE WE HOLD A SPECIAL PLACE IN ICELANDERS' HEARTS.

YES PLEASE! WHAT ARE WE GOING TO CELEBRATE?

SPRING HAS ARRIVED!

HI, I'M LÓA. DID SOMEONE SAY AFRICA? I'VE TRAVELED FROM THERE FOR THE SUMMER. IN FACT, I WAS AMONG THE FIRST OF US TO BE SPOTTED AND GOT MY PICTURE IN THE PAPER. IT WAS ALL VERY EXCITING!

55 Icelandair Stopover

WON'T YOU JOIN US FOR A PICNIC? WE ARE GOING TO CELEBRATE!

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FLIGHT OF THE GOLDEN PUFFIN In the past 16 years, Reykjavík International Film Festival (RIFF) has grown from a humble event for local film lovers to a fully-fledged 11-day trendsetting extravaganza. “There’s a special kind of atmosphere in the city and even if you don’t go to the theater, it’s obvious that there’s something film-related going on,” says Hrönn Marinósdóttir, founder and director of Reykjavík International Film Festival (RIFF). As one of Reykjavík’s four official festivals, RIFF runs for 11 days in the autumn, this year September 26 to October 6. Program Preview When I meet Hrönn and two of her production managers—Erna Agnes Sigurgeirsdóttir and Ólafur Daði Eggertsson—in May, they are busy planning RIFF’s 2019 edition. Hrönn and director of programming Giorgio Gosetti are about to leave for Cannes to scout films, but some have already been confirmed. Hrönn reveals that among the films they will screen are End of Sentence by Icelandic director Elfar Adalsteins and The Seer and the Unseen, a documentary about elves and an Icelandic clairvoyant by young American director Sara Dosa. Due to popular demand, documentaries now make up 40% of RIFF’s program. However, the festival’s flagship is the New Visions category, where up-and-coming directors compete for the Golden Puffin. “The films that have won the Golden Puffin have subsequently taken the world by storm,” states Erna. “We make a big impact, often marking the Nordic premiere after films have opened in Toronto and Venice.” Overall, more than 80 full-length films of various genres from over 40 countries are screened during the festival, along with a multitude of shorts. Austria and Switzerland will be in focus this year, and the overall theme relates to the Arctic and climate issues.

57 Icelandair Stopover

During the screening of The Fifth Element at RIFF’s swim-in.

BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTOS COURTESY OF RIFF.

In 2019, French director Claire Denis will among RIFF’s honorary guests. Earlier recipients of the honorary award include Danish actor Mads Mikkelsen, Czech-American director Milos Forman and American director Jim Jarmusch. Every year, esteemed filmmakers from around the world participate in Q&As, symposiums and workshops. “We want to participate in a social dialogue related to the topics of the films,” explains Hrönn. RIFF also serves an educational role, such as through the sought-after Talent Lab, where participants’ short films compete for the Golden Egg. While highlighting young talent, Icelandic filmmaking and ambitious documentaries, RIFF also makes room for international hits, such as HBO series Big Little Lies. The first two episodes were screened at RIFF in 2018 and one of the main actors, Shailene Woodley, was on the festival jury. “The production of popular culture is on par with feature films; the lines are becoming blurry between film and tele vision,” reasons Hrönn. Vibrant and Weird When determining RIFF’s emphasis, Hrönn and her team of experts discussed what kind of a festival would suit Reykjavík. “It couldn’t be red-carpet style like Cannes or Berlin, but something more intimate, fresh and exciting, raw and provocative,” she says, adding: “We have created a niche with strange and fun events.” RIFF hosts various events and pop-ups in Reykjavík and around Iceland. (Continues on page 58.)

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Venues range from kindergartens, nursing homes and homes of local celebrities, to caves and swimming pools. The swim-in has become a fixed feature. “Last year we screened The Fifth Element in Sundhöllin [a downtown swimming pool] on a giant screen, with special lighting and amazing sound. The theatrical scenery kind of flowed onto the walls of the pool and we had actors dress up as characters from the film, transforming the building into a futuristic, immersive movie theater,” says Ólafur. “We try to surprise spectators, like by screening shorts in a hair salon, on a whale-watching boat, or in a tiny store on Laugavegur,” adds

to screen their work,” notes Ólafur. A number of concerts take place during the festival. One of the more memorable is Hjaltalín’s performance at the screening of Saga Borgarættarinnar (Sons of the Soil) from 1919—the first film made in Iceland— featuring music they wrote specifically for that purpose. This year, Icelandic animation Ploey (2018) will be screened at Harpa Concert Hall to the North Iceland Symphony Orchestra’s performance of the score by Atli Örvarsson. Mad About Movies Hrönn’s fascination with film goes back to her childhood. “I come from a movie family.

masterpiece after another, and I thought it was a shame that these films never came to Iceland.” Consequently, Hrönn and a friend of hers organized a Spanish film festival in Reykjavík, which was well received. Hrönn decided to make a change from journalism and study for an MBA degree. “My final project was an analysis of whether it would be possible to operate an international film festival in Iceland. I received good advice from my teachers and fellow students and the conclusion was that this was possible.” Hrönn applied for grants and started planning the first RIFF in 2004. “It was never my intention to become the director of a film festival but sometimes life takes you unexpected places.” The first festival was dedicated to Icelandic filmmakers, including two Canadian directors of Icelandic descent: Guy Maddin and Sturla Gunnarsson. Following the festival’s success, Hrönn put together a team of professionals with esteemed Greek director Dimitri Eipides in charge of programming, and together they created the festival RIFF is today. Bright Future for Filmmaking Hrönn is excited about the upcoming festival. “I still think it’s a lot of fun. There are so many opportunities and I take pleasure in seeing how appreciative people have been. I feel grateful. And I enjoy working with all kinds of people from many different countries.” About 100 volunteers from the abroad come to help out each year, creating “an interesting international vibe and a special kind of energy,” as she describes it.

Hrönn. The festival is meant to be accessible to all—there have even been screenings in prisons. “We want to bring the festival to those who are unable to attend. We want to reach as many people as we can with all sorts of spectacles.” Crossing genres is an important feature as well. “I love it that we devote a special category, Red RIFF, to music videos by Icelandic artists. They put a lot of effort into making ambitious videos but lack a platform

59 Icelandair Stopover

My grandparents owned 50% of Gamla Bíó [an old movie theater in Reykjavík] and I worked as an usher. They screened Walt Disney films, among others, and I thought it was amazing.” Hrönn became a journalist and sought to write about films. “I lived in Berlin for a while where I attended the Berlinale. I interviewed directors and thought it would be fabulous to create something like this in Iceland, that kind of atmosphere. Then life moved on. I was living in Barcelona next to an art house cinema where I watched one

“This will be a great year for Icelandic filmmaking,” states Hrönn, mentioning A White, White Day by Hlynur Pálmason, Echo by Rúnar Rúnarsson, The County by Grímur Hákonarson and The Valhalla Murders, the first Icelandic television series co-produced by Netflix. “I value taking part in promoting Iceland as a film country and helping to further its popularity as a shooting location for foreign films,” says Hrönn. “It’s important for us to have one big festival where we can promote quality films and strengthen our network of contacts with foreign filmmakers, and create new projects and collaborations. Top: From the swim-in. Bottom left: Danish actor Mads Mikkelsen with former President of Iceland Vigdís Finnbogadóttir and Hrönn. Bottom right: Minister for Foreign Affairs Guðlaugur Þór Þórðarson with Big Little Lies star Shailene Woodley.

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There for you

Icelandair Stopover 60

STOPOVER ICELAND:

OUR TOP PICKS

BY SARAH DEARNE.

With so much you can pack into an Icelandair Stopover, the options can feel overwhelming. So, we keep it simple: Four new themes and four fresh suggestions every issue. Take your pick. NATURE Beaches Iceland’s beach-dotted coastline forms a multicolored strand of pearls to admire and explore. In contrast with the quintessential blacksand shores, Rauðasandur (“red sands”) in the Westfjords shimmers in shades of gold and rich ochre. This 6-mile (10-km) beach is home to a colony of seals, which you might spot lolling by the shore. Ideally, time your visit on a sunny evening during golden hour, when the sand is at its most vibrant. On the other side of the country in Northeast Iceland is the windswept Skjólfjörur beach, with rock pillars, colorful stones, charcoal sands, and driftwood washed up from distant shores. Rarely garnering a mention in travel guides, this is an unassuming beauty where you’re more likely to find locals walking their dogs than flocks of tourists. If you’re more after seaside fun than dramatic vistas, try the underrated pleasures of Langi sandur beach in Akranes, 45 minutes north of Reykjavík. Perhaps not the prettiest beach in Iceland, its aesthetic shortcomings are quickly forgiven for its castle-friendly sand and currents gentle enough for a chilly splash. Its trump card, however, is the recently opened double-decker Guðlaug hot pot, a savvy combo of steaming water and ocean views.

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RECREATION Kayaking For a tranquil mode of transport, slide into a kayak to explore the coast and glacier lakes around Iceland. Tours operate all around the country, with most suitable for beginners. One of the most popular destinations is Stykkishólmur in West Iceland, where you can weave between the innumerable islands of Breiðafjörður bay and explore the Þorgeir shipwreck, which has lain untouched since its demise in the 1980s. The coast here is particularly rich in animal life, and you’re likely to encounter puffins, eider ducks, and perhaps a few seals along the way. To kayak between the fjords, head east to Seyðisfjörður, where you’ll be surrounded by some of the country’s most picturesque fjord scenery. Kids can also have a turn kayaking on the calm waters of Fjarðará river in town, while experienced kayakers can explore further asea on multi-day tours around the neigh boring fjords. Kayaks are also ideal for exploring glacial lakes. You can glide across the mirror-smooth waters of Sólheimajökull glacier lagoon in the South or Jökulsárlón and Heinabergslón lagoons in the East, where you’ll be surrounded by glaciers and icebergs. (Continues on page 62.)

From top: Enjoying the sunset over Langisandur beach from the Guðlaug hot pot. Photo by Jónas Ottósson / Akraneskaupstaður. Not another black-sand beach: Rauðasandur in the Westfjords. Photo by Mario Liebherr. Gliding around the East Fjords. Photo by Hlynur Vestmar Oddsson / Visit Seyðisfjörður.

30.06.–06.10.2019 Kjarvalsstaðir

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SEASONAL Autumn Delights Autumn starts early in Iceland, with late August to mid-September the best time to see the fall colors in their fullest glory. While the country has little in the way of tall forests, the shrubbery and moss is quite spectacular in areas such as Þingvellir National Park in the South and Heiðmörk Nature Reserve in the capital area. And for complementary hues, head west to the Hraunfossar falls, whose eerie blue waters provide a brilliant contrast with the amber-colored birch. September brings réttir, the annual round-up, when Icelanders herd wild-roaming sheep and horses and sort them back to their respective farms. It’s quite the show, and everyone is welcome to join in the fun. You can attend round-ups all around the country; check the Bændablaðið website, bbl.is for a map and schedule. Fall is also time for berry picking all over the country, an activity known locally as berjamór. Flavorful bilberries (similar to blueberries) and crowberries are the most common finds; try them with vanilla skyr and a slosh of cream. You’re welcome to pick berries as long as you’re on public property, just be sure to treat the plants with care, aim for the ripest berries, and leave some for the birds.

CULTURE Maritime Museums Iceland’s seafaring history is brought to life in maritime museums around the country. The largest is the award-winning Herring Era Museum in Siglufjörður, North Iceland, which vividly captures the glory days of the herring rush, when the “silver of the sea” could make or break a town’s livelihood. Much smaller in scale but no less evocative is Ósvör Maritime Museum in Bolungarvík, a shoreside replica of a Westfjords fishing outpost. Guests are greeted by a fisherman guide in a traditional skin suit like those worn by sailors in the days long before GORE-TEX. Closer to the capital is the Viking World museum in Njarðvík, not far from Keflavík airport. The centerpiece of the museum is the The Icelander, a precise replica of the magnificent Gokstad Viking ship, which sailed the seas in the 9th century. Back in town is the Reykjavík Maritime Museum down by the harbor in the Grandi area. With a newly-opened permanent exhibition, the museum covers the last 150 years of fishery history in Iceland. Admission includes a tour of Óðinn, a retired coast guard vessel docked nearby.

This page, from top: Þingvellir National Park ablaze in autumn colors. Photo by David Mark. At The Boathouse, one of The Herring Era Museum’s five exhibitions. Photo courtesy of The Herring Era Museum. The Icelander Viking ship sailed across the Atlantic before finding a permanent home at Viking World. Photo courtesy of Viking World.

63 Icelandair Stopover

BRING YOUR COSTCO CARD WITH YOU TO ICELAND! Costco Iceland opened in May 2017. Just like other Costco warehouses, Costco Iceland offers one of the largest and most exclusive product category selections to be found under one roof. Categories include groceries, confectionery, appliances, television and audio equipment, automotive supplies, tires, toys, hardware, sporting goods, jewellery, watches, cameras, books, housewares, apparel, health and beauty aids, furniture, office supplies and office equipment. The warehouse also has a self-service gas station.

Kauptun 3, 210 Gardabaer WAREHOUSE OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 10am to 9pm Saturday: 9:30am to 8pm Sunday: 10am to 6pm

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GAS STATION OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 7am to 10pm Saturday: 7am to 9.30pm Sunday: 7am to 7pm

PHARMACY OPENING TIMES Monday - Friday: 11am to 7pm Saturday: 10am to 6pm Sunday: 10am to 4pm

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VANCOUVER’S GREAT GREEN SPACES Fringed by glittering ocean and sawtooth mountain peaks, Vancouver’s dramatic natural setting is its greatest asset. But you don’t have to leave the city to commune with this tree-hugging outdoor edge. Read on for a bouquet of brilliant urban green spaces—from vast woodlands to cultivated gardens—then dive in on your next visit to British Columbia’s glasstowered metropolis. Above: Brockton Point in Stanley Park. Photo by Nelson Mouellic, courtesy of Tourism Vancouver. Next page (top two): Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden. Photo by John Lee. Stanley Park totem poles. Photo by Al Harvey, courtesy of Tourism Vancouver. Next page (middle two): Vancouver’s jewel-like natural setting. Photo courtesy of Tourism Vancouver / Barbershop Films. Bard on the Beach in Vanier Park. Photo by John Lee. Next page (bottom two): The Arbutus Greenway. Photo by John Lee. VanDusen Botanical Garden. Photo courtesy of Tourism Vancouver / Sombilon Studios.

65 Icelandair Stopover

BY JOHN LEE. PHOTOS BY JOHN LEE AND TOURISM VANCOUVER. Stanley Park A Vancouver must-see, this 998-acre (404-hectare) oceanfront peninsula can be crammed with summer visitors. But follow the locals beyond the crowded Seawall to find a magical, cathedral-calm interior. Start at Lost Lagoon’s Stanley Park Nature House for flora and fauna insights, then slowly explore tranquil tree-shaded pathways including Beaver Lake Trail (beaversightings often included). Pacific Spirit Regional Park Almost double Stanley Park’s size, B.C.’s temperate rainforest is on full display at this lush, easy-access woodland reserve on the city’s West Side. You’ll find a greatest hits array of Pacific Northwest trees—from towering cedars to bristly hemlocks—plus an ever-present menagerie of resident raccoons, feisty Douglas squirrels and jewel-like little hummingbirds. Arbutus Greenway Vancouver’s outdoor spaces aren’t all about trees. This 5.3 mile (8.5-km) former rail line between Kitsilano and the Fraser River is a newly created linear park where public art and viewing platforms are being planned. But it’s already open to the public, creating a popular promenade and cycling route flanked by fluttering butterflies and a kaleidoscope of wildflowers. Vancouver Public Library Rooftop Garden An even newer green space opened in 2018. But you’ll need to leave terra firma to find it. Nip into downtown’s elliptical, Colosseum-like library building, press floor nine in the elevator and then step out into a lofty “secret garden” lined with white roses, café tables and orna mental maple trees. A calming break from the busy streets, the elevated cityscape views are a highlight here.

Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden A 15-minute walk away, this meticulously landscaped oasis exemplifies traditional Chinese horticulture, from gnarly-fingered pine trees to intricate pebble walkways. Its tile-topped walls also enclose a mirror-calm pond where vivid koi carp nose beneath flowering lily pads. It’s a paid-admission attraction, but there’s a free-entry park next door with similar features. VanDusen Botanical Garden Foliage-fringed walkways radiate from a large pond studded with statue-still turtles at this delightful 54-acre (22-hectare) attraction. Displaying a vast array of local and international plant life (discreetly signposted for easy identification), you’ll find everything from blooming rhododendrons to sprightly monkeypuzzle trees. Don’t miss the tunnel-like laburnum walk and the head-scratching hedge maze. Vanier Park Hugging the city’s inviting shoreline, this grassy picnic magnet serves up panoramic views of sparkling ocean, looming mountains and boat-studded tangerine sunsets. A kiteflying hotspot, the park’s Museum of Vancou ver also houses a fascinating First Nations gallery, while its beloved Bard on the Beach Shakespeare festival opens its pop-up tented stages here from June to October. John Hendry Park Locally known as Trout Lake Park, this busy East Vancouver gathering place takes on a festival feel every Saturday from May to midOctober, when it hosts the city’s biggest farmers’ markets. Fuel-up on bakery treats, craft beer samples and fresh B.C. produce (from sweet blueberries to luscious peaches), then explore the park’s lakeside trails before nipping back for a hearty food-truck lunch. Icelandair flies to Vancouver daily, year-round. Traveling from Europe, you have the opportunity to add a Stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare.

Icelandair Stopover 66

OUR DESTINATIONS:

WIND DOWN IN GENEVA Often perceived as a place with a buttoned-up personality and an obsession with punctuality and precision timepieces, Geneva sheds its sensible skin every summer. This is the time for making the most of the city’s stunning position on Lake Geneva (Lac Léman to locals) for sunning, swimming and sauntering. TEXT AND PHOTOS BY SALLY O’BRIEN. Eau-so-Fresh The 224-square-mile (580-km2) croissant-shaped lake of pristine freshwater is Western Europe’s largest. In summer, spectacular thunderstorms and lightning are regular occurrences, evoking the wild power of the natural Alpine surrounds. Geneva well and truly blows its own horn via its eye-catching Jet d’Eau, a 459-ft (140-m) tall fountain that shoots an impressive 132 gallons (500 l) of water per second, at a speed of 124 miles (200 km) per hour; it’s visible from vantage points throughout the city and is colorfully illuminated at night.

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Despite the jet’s impressive optics, the city’s true lakeside jewel is found on its right bank at the beloved Bains des Pâquis, a cheerily egalitarian haven that has been in business for almost 130 years and boasts 1,640 ft (500 m) of beach. Its retro and low-key appeal draws a mix of Geneva’s rich and poor, young and old, gay and straight, and everything in between, to practice some self-care while socializing. The water itself is invariably bracingly “fresh” but crystal clear, and the views to the city skyline and over to neighboring France gently intoxicating. Its casual buvette (refreshment kiosk) stocks healthy dishes and juices and transforms into a breezy bar for sundowners. Come winter, it’s possible to enjoy a sauna and hammam, as well as what is

arguably Geneva’s best fondue (reserve in advance), made with crémant (sparkling wine) instead of the usual white wine. Cruisin’ Getting your bearings and your fill of breath taking Alpine views is easily done by boat. CGN offers a choice of tours, including its frequent hour-long Geneva Tour or the After work Cruise, which includes a couple of drinks and a DJ. If you only fancy a short saut de puce (flea hop) across the water, there’s no better way than the mouettes genevoises (Geneva seagulls), yellow boats that putter across the lake’s surface, gen erally transporting commuters. Three of the four lines depart from and arrive at Pâquis, and tickets start at a bargain CHF 2 (USD 2). Wine Not? To combine one of the country’s best-kept

secrets—Swiss wine—with one its most stunning spots, you’ll need to head to the UNESCO-listed Lavaux region, a heady patchwork of vineyards 47 miles (75 km) northeast of Geneva. Easily accessed by train from Geneva and nearby Lausanne, it’s a perfect day-trip. You can also travel by boat, if you fancy taking it slow and don’t mind checking timetables and mix-and-matching transport options.

perfect village of Saint-Saphorin, an easy 20-minute walk from Vinorama, with dreamy views, is a sure highlight of a visit to the area, with its narrow streets, cheek-by-jowl medieval residences and cheeky swimming spot across the railroad tracks. Previous page: Aerial view of the southeastern bank of Lake Geneva. Top left: Crossing the lake by boat is a must.

Steep, serried hills, stirring views over the vineyards, medieval villages and wines unique to the area (such as Plant Robert) amply reward time and curiosity. For tastings, there are cellar doors with tastings, or head to the informative Lavaux Vinorama (closed Thurs days in summer), a bold architectural state ment in the village of Rivaz, with 250 local wines to try and buy, and easy access to vineyard and village strolls. The postcard-

Bottom left: the view of the Jet d’Eau from Geneva’s cathedral. Right: The UNESCO-listed Lavaux vineyards. Icelandair flies to Geneva May–October. Traveling from North America, you have the opportunity to add a Stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare.

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OUR DESTINATIONS:

THE HEART OF DENMARK

Billund is a gateway to Lego treasure and coastal charms. BY CAROLYN BAIN. You may not have heard of Billund, a small town in regional Denmark, but it probably features in some of your fondest childhood memories. How so? This is where Lego was born, back in 1932. Billund lies at the center of Jutland (the peninsula attached to Germany) and although the town’s population is only around 6,000, it’s home to Denmark’s second-busiest airport after Copenhagen. Jutland may fly under the radar for many travelers to Europe, but it’s a treasure trove of sandy beaches, history-filled towns and familyfriendly attractions. It’s where many Danes go on vacation—a lead you may want to follow. Billund: Heaven for Kids, Perfect for Families Billund is a company town, built from the success of one brand. You may think that sounds a little stuffy and businesslike, but not when the town’s homegrown star is megabrand Lego, branded by experts as the “toy of the century.” Billund puts kids at the heart of everything. Case in point: Legoland amusement park, with attractions made from plastic bricks (from an aquarium to a pirate ship to a haunted house). Then there’s Lalandia,

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a family-focused activity and entertainment center housing a water park, play center and loads more. The town’s newest addition is the stunning Lego House, an interactive cultural center cleverly designed to resemble a stack of giant bricks. Aarhus: A Fresh City-Break Destination Denmark always scores high in livability rankings, and in its cities you can see firsthand how enviable the Danish lifestyle is: great design and the pursuit of hygge are everywhere you look. The obvious choice for a Danish city break has long been Copenhagen, but Aarhus now gives the capital a run for its money and is only 60 miles (100 km) from Billund airport. The past decade has seen Aarhus flourish, with great new restaurants (from student-friendly food halls to fancy Michelinstarred options), eye-catching architecture and first-class museums. Get inspired for your visit atop the ARoS art museum, where a rainbow-colored walkway offers multi-hued views over the city. Ribe: Viking Tales and Historic Charm If you seek history and hygge with a dash of Viking adventure,

head to Ribe, Denmark’s oldest city, just 60 miles (40 km) from Billund. It’s a fairytale scene of cobblestone lanes, crooked halftimbered houses and a meandering river, with a soaring 12th-century cathedral as the village centerpiece. As befits the country’s oldest city, there are museums filled with art and archaeological riches. Viking storytelling is a big magnet: There’s a dedicated museum plus a playful open-air recreation of Viking life, complete with longhouses, traditional crafts, falconry shows, archery lessons and even “warrior training” for kids. Don’t be deterred by the Vikings’ fearsome reputation—the Ribe Viking Center is fun for all ages. The West Coast: For Sun, Sand and Sea Jutland’s wild west coast is full of raw nature, shifting sand dunes, summer-house

settlements and seafood restaurants. Sweet offshore islands like Fanø and Rømø are magnets for those after classic beachy treats, full of camping grounds, bike lanes and cottages for rent. When the wind whips in off the North Sea, you’ll find holidaymakers flying kites and taking to the water for wind surfing and kitesurfing. One of the shining lights of the west coast is the Wadden Sea National Park, a tidal wonder whose mudflats, sandbanks, marshes and islands are a well-stocked playground for birds and seals. The park’s visitor head quarters is at the Wadden Sea Center, about 6 miles (10 km) from Ribe. Familyfriendly activities abound in summer, while oyster safaris run in cooler weather.

Previous page: Aerial view of Lego House in Billund, the home of the brick. Photo courtesy of Lego Group. Top left: Exterior of Lego House in the center of Billund. Photo by Alfreð I. A. Pétursson. Bottom left: Your Rainbow Panorama from artist Ólafur Elíasson, atop ARoS Art Museum in Aarhus. Photo by Willy Grauby / VisitAarhus. Right: The cobblestoned charm of Ribe. Photo by Kim Wyon / VisitDenmark. Icelandair flies to Billund regularly from June to October. Traveling from North America, you have the opportunity to add a Stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare.

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Special Promotion

VISITING THE BLUE LAGOON ON ARRIVAL IN ICELAND Off the plane, direct to the Blue Lagoon —is there a better start to your vacation? You’ve no doubt heard a lot of advice about packing for Iceland (key word: layers). Allow us to offer another essen tial tip: Keep your swimsuit at the top of your luggage, ready for action in one of the geothermal gems scattered around the country.

second drink. You can add treats as you need: in-water massage? Sure. Lunch at the high-quality, onsite Lava restaurant? Why not? (And do feel free to wear your robe to lunch.) You can also opt for coffee, drinks and sandwiches from a couple of poolside café areas.

The very best way to embrace the Icelandic hot-water habit is straight off the plane. Icelandair arrivals from the USA and Canada begin landing around 6 am. Disembarking passengers are generally experiencing a haze of sleep iness (it’s still 2 am on the East Coast!), but hotel rooms often aren’t accessible until 2 pm or later. What to do with all that time?

The changing rooms are both a chance to freshen up after your flight and a place to learn the essential etiquette of Icelandic pools: Shower before entering. Lockers are provided, and there are private stalls for showering and changing.

Answer: the Blue Lagoon. It’s probably high on your bucket list (as it should be; it’s a photogenic wonder of steaming, milky-blue water set in an ethereal volcanic landscape), so why not let it work some magic on your jetlagged self? To make things easy, Destination Blue Lagoon offers super-simple bus trans fers direct from Keflavík International Airport to the lagoon. Peak summer departures from the airport begin at 6:25 am, and the drive is about 20 minutes, getting you to the lagoon in time for opening at 7 am. Luggage is easily stored in a building by the car park. There are two choices of entry package: towel hire, drink and silica face mask are included in both, while the Premium package includes a robe, slippers and a

Blue Lagoon Norðurljósavegur 9, 240 Grindavík Open: Jun 28–Aug 18: 7 am–midnight Aug 19–Sep 30: 8 am–10 pm Oct 1– Dec 31: 8 am–9 pm bluelagoon.com

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Explore the steam rooms, the swim-up bar, and the swim-up hut that doles out handfuls of face masks (these are also available to buy from the onsite store as you exit—the signature silica mud mask is a bestseller). A favorite haunt for sleepy travelers is the relaxation room, offering lounge chairs with a lagoon view. When your skin is in full prune mode and it’s time to dry off, there are hourly buses back to Keflavík Airport or to downtown Reykjavík, a 45-minute drive away. Hotel transfers are easily arranged when booking your bus ticket. So now you’re just half a day into your Iceland visit and you’ve ticked off one of your bucket-list items and eased away post-flight tensions in a thoroughly unique locale. How perfect a start to your vacation is that?

It’s recommended to pre-book at bluelagoon.com—use the on-board Wi-Fi to check out your options. You can also make booking enquiries at the transfer desk at the arrival hall at Keflavík Airport. You also can do this trip in reverse, on your way to depart from Keflavík Airport. Buses will pick you up from your Reykjavík accommodation to take you to the Blue Lagoon, then on to the airport.

Special Promotion

101 HANGOUTS With so many restaurants to choose from, it can be hard to find the right place to eat or drink. To help you out, here’s a description of a few restaurants, cafés and bars in the heart of Reykjavík, different in style but all delightful.

BRYGGJAN BRUGGHÚS On sunny days, few places are better for enjoying a cold beer than on the pier at Bryggjan Brugghús, offering a view of the bustling Reykjavík harbor and stunning Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Center. The craft brewery’s distinct IPA, lager and pale ale are always available on tap, alongside seasonal specialties. The beer isn’t only for drinking but is also used in various dishes on the tempting bistro menu, including the hamburgers, chicken, fish & chips, and mussels cultivated in West Iceland. Brikk, the bakery across the street, uses leftover

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mash for baking perfectly delicious bread delivered to Bryggjan Brugghús every morning. The bistro and brewery also collaborates with other locales in the hip Grandi neighborhood; try beer ice cream by Valdís for dessert! The fish of the day is whatever the fishermen hauled in that morning. Open every day of the year for lunch and dinner, Bryggjan Brugghús also offers drop-in brewery tours and beer tastings every hour from 1 to 10 pm and is the base for Reykjavík Sightseeing’s popular Cheers to Reykjavík! tour. If you happen to be in

Reykjavík on Culture Night, August 24, don’t miss the brewery festival held by the Independent Craft Brewers of Iceland on Bryggjan Brugghús’s pier, 12–5 pm. Grandagarður 8 Open Sun–Thu: 11 am–11 pm, Fri–Sat: 11 am–1 am Happy Hour: 3–7 pm bryggjanbrugghus.is

MESSINN

GRÁI KÖTTURINN

When strolling along the Reykjavík harbor, watching the boats come and go and smelling the salt in the air, fish is the inevitable choice for lunch or dinner. With its rustic appeal, nautical-themed restaurant Messinn serves fresh and simple seafood. Owner and head chef Snorri Sigfinnsson promises honest cooking, good food and big por tions. The fish is sometimes so fresh “that it was in the net only six hours earlier.” The restaurant’s specialty is the fish pans: the Arctic char with honey, almonds, cherry tomatoes, lemon and butter is an obvious hit, as is Snorri’s special take on the traditional Icelandic plokkfiskur stew. Reykjavík Maritime Museum Lækjargata 6b (à la carte) Grandagarður 8 (buffet) Open 11 am–3 pm and 5–10 pm Open 11:30 am–5 pm

There’s a sweet expression in Icelandic for one who lingers: “to hang around like a gray cat (grái kötturinn).” This petite café has lingered long on the Reykjavík scene—its cozy corners and cute retro stylings have been inviting locals to hang out since 1997, surrounded by books and art. The menu of diner favorites was inspired by travels in the USA, and early opening hours (from 7:30 am weekdays, 8 am weekends) make it a perfect spot for fresh-off-the-plane travelers to refuel and get their bearings. Dig into fluffy pancakes, eggs and bacon, bagels, and the trademark “Truck” breakfast, a hunger-busting dish that will likely remove any need for lunch.

messinn.com

graikotturinn.is

Hverfisgata 16a Open Mon–Fri: 7:30 am–2:30 pm, Sat–Sun: 8 am–2:30 pm

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CAFÉ LOKI Combining Iceland’s most traditional flavors with a front-row view of its most iconic building is a brilliant sales pitch. Inside Café Loki, windows frame Hallgrímskirkja, Reykjavík’s eye-catching, rocket-like church, while a huge mural depicts aspects of Norse mythology. The menu calls to both the brave and the mildly curious: Dive deeply into unique local flavors with fermented shark and a shot of brennivín (schnapps),

or play it safe with fresh fish or warming lamb soup. Homemade rye bread comes with classic toppings like smoked trout, or crumbled through the café’s deliciously unique ice cream, topped with cream and rhubarb syrup. Craving more familiar fare? Try bagels, pancakes or traditional pastries.

Lokastígur 28 Open Jun–Jul: 7 am–10 pm, Aug–May: 8 am–10 pm loki.is

BÆJARINS BEZTU PYLSUR

AMERICAN BAR

In a city that excels at storytelling, a generous amount of mythology surrounds a downtown hot dog stand. This is no ordinary fast food vendor but a magical place where late-night cravings are sated, queues move fast, prices are reasonable, and flavors are authentically local. The name means “The Town’s Best Hot Dogs” and the menu is simple: pylsa (hot dog), gos (soda). Decisions are made only regarding toppings: with or without ketchup, sweet mustard, fried onion, raw onion and remolaði, a mayonnaise-based sauce with sweet relish. Order eina með öllu to get one with the works. These guys have been doling out dogs since 1937; they know how it’s done.

From its collection of football helmets to the diner-style menu, American Bar caters to US expats (not least for its screenings of NFL games, among other major Icelandic and international sporting events), curious tourists, and thirsty locals alike. The menu includes juicy burgers, wraps, sandwiches and hot wings to die for. If you’re all in, go for a milkshake, too. You can also sample Icelandic beers or indulge in a colorful cocktail. With live music and DJs on the weekends, go party with the locals till 4:30 am—then come back for a pick-me-up the following day. In sunny weather, be quick to claim your seat on the terrace facing the grassy Austurvöllur square and Iceland’s parliament.

Tryggvagata, by Kolaportið Open Sun–Thu: 10 am–2 am, Fri–Sat: 10 am–4:30 am bbp.is

Austurstræti 8–10, Open Sun–Thu: 11-1 am, Fri–Sat 11-4:30 am Happy Hour: 4–7 pm americanbar.is

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FLYER’S HUB Icelandair’s route network connects more than 35 destinations on both sides of the Atlantic, from the airline’s hub at Keflavík International Airport.

ANCHORAGE

HELSINKI VANCOUVER SEATTLE

STOCKHOLM EDMONTON

OSLO

PORTLAND

SAN FRANCISCO ICELAND

BERGEN COPENHAGEN BILLUND BERLIN HAMBURG DUSSELDORF FRANKFURT AMSTERDAM MUNICH GLASGOW BRUSSELS ZURICH MANCHESTER MILAN DUBLIN LONDON PARIS GENEVA HEATHROW & GATWICK

DENVER MINNEAPOLIS / ST. PAUL

MADRID CHICAGO KANSAS CITY

TORONTO MONTREAL

BOSTON WASHINGTON D.C. PHILADELPHIA NEW YORK JFK & NEWARK

ORLANDO

Contents: 76 Icelandair @Work: Novelties and News 77 Icelandair’s Special Children Travel Fund 79 Saga Shop Kitchen: On-Board Menu 80 Icelandair Travel Experience 81 Services on Board 82 In-Flight Entertainment

84 90 92 94 96

Map of Iceland and Domestic Routes Our Fleet: Aircraft Types and Names Devices and Wi-Fi Safety First Guide to US Customs Form

NEWS:

ICELANDAIR @WORK

From a prestigious award to equal pay certification, environmentally-friendly amenity kits and flying around 700 children and their families to their dream destinations, Icelandair means business. COMPILED BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR.

Wildlife Amenity Kits Take Off Icelandair’s New Amenity Kit, which launched in April, was covered in the May 2019 edition of PAX International – Special Amenities Issue. Called Dýralíf (“Wildlife”), the design of each of the four purses in the kit collection was inspired by an animal special to Iceland: the puffin and the Arctic fox (released in 2019), and the raven and the Icelandic horse (available in 2020). “Iceland is a very special place where nature and natural phenomenon are close to the hearts of the people who live here,” Íris Anna Groeneweg, Manager of Procurement and Supply Chain Icelandair, told PAX International.

sustainable materials, including recycled canvas, vegan leather, and felt made from recycled plastic bottles.

Participants in the tender received a list of requirements: The kits should reflect the country in some way, be made of sustainable mate rials, tell a story that would raise interest in Iceland, and be unique and eye-catching. WESSCO International was up for the task. “The major challenge was to create a bag collection that could convey Icelandic nature and serve as a functional travel accessory,” Luigi Auricchio, WESSCO’s Global Creative Director, explained in the article.

In addition, each kit contains earplugs, a dental kit (toothbrush and toothpaste), eyeshade, socks, stickers for use by passengers if they don’t wish to be disturbed and fun educational facts about each animal. The toothbrush is made from cornstarch-based biodegradable material. The socks are made from recycled material. Plastic use is minimal, with content wrappings made from paper.

WESSCO International’s design showcases each of the four animals’ unique qualities through shapes and colors reflecting their power and grace. Each purse is made from a combination of eco-friendly and

The contents of each kit have been designed and selected to help passengers arrive at their destination rested and refreshed. The purses contain skincare products from small, family-owned Icelandic company Hannes Dóttir: Lip Balm, Hand Lotion and Mineral Mist. The hand crafted formulas are made of 100% nutrition supplement and foodgrade ingredients, including sea kelp.

The complimentary amenity kits are issued to Saga Premium passengers on all flights between Iceland and North America. The kits are also available for purchase through sagashop.is.

Icelandair Named Best Regional Carrier Equal Pay Certification for Icelandair Icelandair received awards in three categories at the APEX Pass enger Choice Awards in Dublin, Ireland, in April, including Best Major Regional Carrier in Europe. Icelandair also received awards for Best Inflight Entertainment in Europe and Best Wi-Fi in Europe—the latter for the second year in a row. “We at Icelandair strive to ensure a great experience for our pass engers. These awards reflect the achievements of Icelandair and its employees in this field, and we will build on this further,” says Birna Ósk Einarsdóttir, CCO Sales and Customer Experience. The APEX Passenger Choice Awards are based on passenger feedback gathered through APEX’s partnership with TripIt® from Concur®, the world’s highest-rated travel-organizing app. Using a five-star scale, more than one million flights were rated by passengers across nearly 500 airlines from around the world.

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Icelandair Group became the largest private company in Iceland to receive equal pay certification last April. The certification confirms that the company is working to combat gender-based pay gaps and promote gender equality in the workplace, and applies to all 4,000 employees of Icelandair Group, Icelandair, Icelandair Hotels and Icelandair Cargo. Last October, Bogi Nils CEO of Icelandair signed up to the Leadership Equality project of the Association of Business Women in Iceland. Its objective is to increase the number of women at Executive Manage ment level of companies in Iceland to 40% by 2027. Equal rights have long been a priority for Icelandair Group. The company has made considerable improvements in this area in recent years, for example by increasing the number of women in manage ment positions. The ratio of female pilots at Icelandair is noticeably high, or 12%, which is more than double the average of other commercial airlines.

MAKING DREAMS COME TRUE Since its establishment in 2003, Icelandair’s Special Children Travel Fund has enabled around 700 children to go on their dream vacations with their families.

BY EYGLÓ SVALA ARNARSDÓTTIR. PHOTOS: STILLS FROM THE SPECIAL CHILDREN TRAVEL FUND VIDEO.

“My mom screaming in a roller coaster, riding upside down and in circles!” Ólafía Dís says of her drawing of her upcoming vacation to Orlando, Florida. “We are going abroad for the first time!” adds her older brother in excitement. Ólafía Dís is 10 years old and has atypical autism. She is one of the children who have received a grant from Icelandair’s Special Children Travel Fund (Vildarbörn). The fund supports children from Iceland and other countries who suffer from long-term illnesses or live in difficult circumstances. Ólafía Dís, along with two other recipients, shared her experience in a video about the fund that was filmed before, during and after their dream vacation. “When I’m on the plane, I’m sure I’m going to explode, run around it in circles. I could even jump from the plane and take a parachute to Florida!” exclaims Guðlaugur (Gulli), 11 years old, who was injured in a car accident.

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“I have the privilege of being patron to the Special Children Travel Fund,” states Vigdís Finnbogadóttir, former President of Iceland, who in 1980 became the first woman to be democratically elected as head of state. “It is very special to experience how much joy this fund gives. First the anticipation […]; then the experience itself; and finally, to return home with all the memories and photographs,” adds Vigdís. Viewers of the video then witness the fun the three children are having with their families in Florida. “Mom, look who it is! It’s Scrooge McDuck!” shouts Einar, an 11-yearold with autism, upon arrival in Disney World. The grant not only covers the flight for the children and the family members traveling with them, but also accommodation and tickets to amusement parks. While the children can choose any Icelandair destination they want, the vast majority pick Orlando. “This trip is just wonderful. To reclaim joy, find happiness and create good memories,” says Gulli’s mom. “Such a journey and such

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a fabulous break is very important to the family. It brings us closer together,” adds Einar’s mom. “We will treasure this for the rest of our lives,” maintains Ólafía Dís’s mom. Vigdís concludes: “This fund is so positive and constructive. It only brings out positive thoughts, loving and caring. If there is any thing we need in this life, it is, of course, loving and caring.” The fund is financed through Icelandair’s founding contribution, donations by members of Icelandair Saga Club (who can donate an unlimited number of frequent flyer miles), and through surplus change that passengers place in envelopes in the seat pockets of Icelandair aircraft. Also, when buying a Special Angel teddy bear from Icelandair’s Saga Shop Collection, all proceeds go towards the Icelandair’s Special Children Travel Fund (flip this magazine over and look up page 61 in Saga Shop). Allocations from the fund are made twice a year, in April and October. Since its estab

lishment in 2003, around 700 children have been able to go on a dream vacation with their families, more than 3,500 people in total. Read more about the fund at vildarborn.is. Previous page, top: From the last allocation in April 2019. Previous page, bottom: Ólafía arrives in Disney World. Top left: Ólafía with her family. Top right and bottom left: Einar with his mom. Bottom right: Gulli having fun at Disney World. You can watch the video on Icelandair’s in-flight entertainment system by choosing “Vildarbörn/ Children’s Travel Fund” in the bottom left corner of the main menu.

IS FLYING MAKING YOU FAMISHED?

SAGA SHOP KITCHEN No problem. Our new Economy menu has never been more appetizing and varied. Just fish it out of the seat pocket in front of you and order what your heart desires.

VEGAN

GLUTEN FREE

Gourmet falafel salad Falafel, cherry tomatoes, chickpeas, fresh salad leaves, red cabbage, sweet potatoes, roasted pumpkin seeds and a hummus dressing. Turkey pretzel triangle Honey-roasted turkey, barbecue mayonnaise, fresh salad and red bell peppers in a freshly baked crispy butter pretzel triangle.

Travel Experience

Tapas snack box Serrano ham, mini fuet, grissini, bruschetta dip and matured Iberico cheese. Tapas snack box + olives + wine.

WARM

VEGETARIAN

Pizza Margherita Pizza with tomatoes and mozzarella cheese, served with one of the world’s best olive oils straight from Italy. Choose between basil or chili flavor. Product not available when departing from YVR

We welcome your feedback on the dining experience on board. Please drop us a line at kitchen@icelandair.is with any comments. Verði þér að góðu! Bon appétit!

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DISCOVERING ICELAND IN THE SKY Icelandair’s travel experience introduces you to our special country. Whether you’re flying with us today en route to or from Iceland, or between Europe and North America with a short airport stopover, we’d like you to feel as if you’ve learned a little bit about our country during the flight. We’re very proud of our Icelandic heritage and culture and hope we’re able to share that enthusiasm with you. Take a look around you now. You should spot several little glimpses of Iceland, but if you want to catch them all, here’s our cheat sheet: The music as you boarded was composed and performed by Icelandic artists. Like it? It’s from our Icelandair Spotify playlist. You can check out the playlist in our in-flight entertainment system. Our menu selection features Icelandic ingredients and snacks like hjónabandssæla (an oat-and-jam square, whose name translates as “happy marriage”) and awardwinning lager.

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We are very proud of our ancient language. You’ll see some samples of Icelandic, which is a North Germanic language, throughout the cabin. Some headrests show Icelandic translations of some common phrases in English, while pillow covers show a popular traditional lullaby both in Icelandic and in translation. The paper cups list the different words used in Icelandic for cups, and the napkins tell you about Iceland’s first settlers. Our in-flight entertainment system features numerous Icelandic films, documentaries and television programs, as well as an exclusive documentary called Unique Iceland, which will introduce you to some of the country’s highlights for visitors. We’re so proud of our volcanoes, glaciers and other natural wonders, that we’ve even named our aircraft after them. After all, Iceland is famous for its spectacular landscapes. Each one bears the moniker of an Icelandic attraction, including the famously

unpronounceable Eyjafjallajökull volcano— which actually doubles as a glacier; Vatna jökull, Europe’s largest glacier; Látrabjarg, Europe’s largest bird cliff; and now also Þingvellir, the rift valley where our parliament was founded in A.D. 930. At the risk of being immodest, we think our water is the best tasting water in the world. Try it for yourself on this flight. We serve refreshing Icelandic Glacial water throughout the trip. On some lucky aircraft you’ll find mood lighting, like on Vatnajökull: The blue LED lighting in the cabin creates the illusion of being inside an ice cave, while on Hekla Aurora it feels as if you’re watching the northern lights dancing in the Icelandic winter sky. We hope you enjoy your flight with us.

CLASSES OF SERVICE Icelandair offers a range of on-board services available to all passengers. We are the first European airline to offer gate-to-gate Wi-Fi, which means that you can stay online from the moment you board until you leave the aircraft. For our youngest flyers, we have a selection of children’s entertainment and games on the in-flight entertainment system. Children receive a meal and juice and are provided with headphones and an activity bag. Passengers can check in quickly and easily with our online check-in service. You can use your smart device to check in even faster. It is possible to check in 36 hours before departure to Europe and Canada, and 24 hours before departure to North America.

Icelandair caters to a range of tastes and budgets with a selection of five fare classes and amenities for tailor-made travel. Economy Light offers quality at a reduced price and includes hand luggage only, ideal for short-haul trips. Economy Standard includes hand luggage and one checked-in bag, and Economy Flex additionally includes priority boarding, free Wi-Fi, and the flexibility to change or cancel your fare. For a pampering experience in an exclusive, quiet cabin at the front of the aircraft, choose Saga Premium. With four-abreast wide seating and plenty of legroom, you’ll have ample space to work or simply stretch out and rest up for your destination.

ECONOMY LIGHT

ECONOMY STANDARD

ECONOMY FLEX

SAGA PREMIUM

SAGA PREMIUM FLEX

Priority check-in

Yes, where applicable

Lounge access

Yes, where applicable

Priority boarding

Yes, where applicable

Seating 737, 757

3-3

2-2

Seating 767

2-3-2

2-1-2

Luggage allowance

No checked luggage

1x50 lb (23 kg)

2x70 lb (32 kg)

Carry-on luggage

1x22 lb (10 kg)

2x22 lb (10 kg)

Legroom

31–32" / 79–81 cm

40" / 101 cm

In-flight entertainment

Yes

Wi-Fi

For a small fee

Included for 2 devices

Headphones

For sale

Yes, noise-canceling

Blankets and pillows

Upon request

Yes

Universal electric outlet

Yes

USB port

Yes

Non-alcoholic beverages

Included

Alcoholic beverages

For sale

Included

Meals

For sale

Included, special menu

Amenity kit

On N-American routes

Hot towels

Yes

Pre-flight drink

On N-American routes

Stopover

For up to 3 nights

For up to 7 nights

Unlimited

Change fees

$300 Fare difference may apply*

$150 Fare difference may apply*

None, but fare difference is applicable

From $150 Fare difference may apply*

None, but fare difference is applicable**

Refundability

Non-refundable

Refundable

Non-refundable

Refundable

Combinability between classes

Combines solely with Economy Light

Combines with Saga Premium

Combines with Saga Premium Flex

Combines with Economy Standard

Combines with Economy Flex

Saga Points earned

50%

100%

150%

200%

300%

*Subject to currency changes

**Within 48 hours of flight time, one free change to 24hr before / after original departure time. Valid on FI flights only.

Icelandair Stopover 82

OUR IN-FLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT Dear Passenger, On this flight you have access to a personal in-flight entertainment system, and these pages offer a sneak peek into our selection. Since we always aim to offer interesting and relevant material on board our flights, we update our selection regularly. Have a browse through the content on the screen in front of you to see everything we offer this time around.

NEW

The selection is quite varied, and we try to offer the latest Hollywood blockbusters of the season. We’ve also dedicated a category to All-Time Classics, where some of the carefully selected films are available for a whole year, allowing you to revisit some of your favorites each time you fly with us.

AUDIO BOOKS

Language: Icelandic and/or English

Líf Biography I 25:02 hr.

Ætíðarþjófurinn Children I 5:27 min.

Ferðin Fiction I 7:45 hr.

LOF MÉR AÐ FALLA / LET ME FALL I When 15-year-old Magnea meets Stella, Álagafjötrar everything changes. Stella’s no-holds-barred lifestyle drags them both into a world Krýsuvík I 18:14 hr. of drugs, which brings serious consequences for each of them, and their relationship. Twelve years later their paths cross again, and a reckoning between them ICELANDIC FILM COMPANY IN COOPERATION WITH ICELANDIC FILM CENTRE NORDISK FILM & TV FOND NEUTRINOS PRODUCTIONS SOLAR FILMS PRESENT LET ME FALL A FILM BY BALDVIN Z becomes ELÍunavoidable. I 137 min. N SIF HALLDÓRSDÓTTIR EYRÚN BJÖRK JAKOBSDÓTTI R KRISTÍN ÞÓRA HARALDSDÓTTIR LÁRA JÓHANNA JÓNSDÓTTIR ÞORSTEINN BACHMANN SÓLVEIG ARNARSDÓTTIR LINE PRODUCER BIRNA PAULINA EINARSDÓTTIR COSTUMES EVA VALA GUÐJÓNSDÓTTIR HAIR & MAKE UP KRISTÍN JÚLLA KRISTJÁNSDÓTTIR CASTING VIGFÚS ÞORMAR GUNNARSSON SOUND RECORDING ÁRNI BENEDIK TSSON SOUND DESIGN ADDI 800 DAÐI GEORGSSON PRODUCTION DESIGN GUNNAR PÁLSSON MARTA LUIZA MACUGA EDITING ÚLFUR TEITUR TRAUSTASON MUSIC ÓLAFUR ARNALDS DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY JÓHANN MÁNI JÓHANNSSON CO-PRODUCERS MARKUS SELIN JUKKA HELLE SOPHIE MAHLO PRODUCED BY JÚLÍUS KEMP INGVAR ÞÓRÐARSON SCREENPLAY BY BALDVIN Z BIRGIR ÖRN STEINARSSON DIRECTED BY BALDVIN Z

TV PROGRAMS

Icelandic Film Company

Language: English (with Icelandic subtitles)

Friends s5 e4, 5, 6, 9 I PG-13 I Comedy I 30 min.

This Is US s1 e1–5 I PG-13 I Drama I 60 min.

Modern Family s8 e1–4 I PG-13 I Comedy I 30 min.

The Leftovers s1 e1–5 I R I Drama I 60 min.

Free Solo PG-13 I Documentary I 99 min.

Isn’t it Romantic R I Comedy, Romance I 88 min.

HOLLYWOOD BLOCKBUSTERS Language: English (with Icelandic subtitles)

They Shall Not Grow Old R I Documentary, History, War I 99 min.

83 Icelandair Stopover

Captain Marvel PG-13 I Action, Adventure I 128 min.

SHORTS & DOCS

RECOMMENDED WHEN VISITING ICELAND

Language: English / Icelandic (with English subtitles)

’T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

Out of Thin Air G I Documentary I 84 min.

SHORTS & DOCS

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

LITLA MOSKVA HARK KVIKMYNDAGERÐ KYNNIR:

IC CUISINE

nt to do the tried and tested, in is your spot. This modestestaurant serves excellently resh fish and meat. They also ne selection of cheeses and d marinated delicacies.

TORFAN

past few years, Iceland’s scene has taken huge leaps With more selection than ore, it should be easy to staurant somewhere in the hat tickles your fancy.

690 Vopnafjörður G I Documentary I 57 min.

Unique Iceland I A holiday destination of extremes. An entertaining and informative series about Iceland, both city and country, so you can feel prepared for your Stopover.

LEIKSTJÓRI/HÖFUNDUR: GrÍmur

HÁkonarson FRAMLEIÐANDI: GrÍmur HÁkonarson, Hark Films MEÐFRAMLEIÐANDI Á ÍSLANDI: GrÍmar JÓnsson, Netop Films MEÐFRAMLEIÐANDI Ostrochovský, Punkchart Films MEÐFRAMLEIÐANDI Í TÉKKLANDI: Albert Malinovský & Martin Šmok, ŠkolFilm KVIKMYNDATAKA: MargrÉt Seema Takyar, TÓmas TÓmasson KLIPPING: Janus Bragi Jakobsson TÓNLIST: Valgeir Sigurðsson HLJÓÐVINNSLA: Huldar Freyr Arnarson FRAM KOMA: GuÐmundur Sigurjónsson, Stella SteinÞÓrsdÓttir, Ingibjörg ÞÓrÐardÓttir, Kristinn V. Jóhannsson, Smári Geirsson, Guðmundur Bjarnason OG HÁkon Hildibrand

Í SLÓVAKÍU: Ivan

SAMVINNUFÉLAG ÚTGERÐARMANNA NESKAUPSTAÐ

Litla Moskva G I s1 e1–4 s2 e1–4 I Documentary I 85 min.

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC SHORT FILM

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

Eftir langa valdatíð sósíalista í Neskaupsstað standa bæjarbúar frammi fyrir breyttum Veruleika.

Thick Skin PG-13 I Short Film I 12 min.

'T MIS ON THIS ICELANDIC DOCUMENTARY

DINING

GLÓ

ESSENSIA

AIN

OSTABÚÐIN

BJÓRGARÐURINN

N HJÖRTU

HEIMILDARMYND EFTIR grím hákonarson

IKHÚSIÐ

Did you forget your headphones? We sell quality headphones that you can use on this flight and anywhere else.

Búi G I Short Film I 13 min.

OUR FAVOURITE URANTS IN REYKJAVÍK

ICELANDIC TV PROGRAMS

ICELANDIC FILMS

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

ICELANDIC FILM COMPANY IN COOPERATION WITH ICELANDIC FILM CENTRE NORDISK FILM & TV FOND NEUTRINOS PRODUCTIONS SOLAR FILMS PRESENT LET ME FALL A FILM BY BALDVIN Z

LINE PRODUCER BIRNA PAULINA EINARSDÓTTIR COSTUMES EVA VALA GUÐJÓNSDÓTTIR HAIR & MAKE UP KRISTÍN JÚLLA KRISTJÁNSDÓTTIR CASTING VIGFÚS ÞORMAR GUNNARSSON SOUND RECORDING ÁRNI BENEDIK TSSON SOUND DESIGN ADDI 800 DAÐI GEORGSSON PRODUCTION DESIGN GUNNAR PÁLSSON MARTA LUIZA MACUGA EDITING ÚLFUR TEITUR TRAUSTASON MUSIC ÓLAFUR ARNALDS DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY JÓHANN MÁNI JÓHANNSSON CO-PRODUCERS MARKUS SELIN JUKKA HELLE SOPHIE MAHLO PRODUCED BY JÚLÍUS KEMP INGVAR ÞÓRÐARSON SCREENPLAY BY BALDVIN Z BIRGIR ÖRN STEINARSSON DIRECTED BY BALDVIN Z

'T M

I S S OU

ICELANDIC MUSIC!

DON'T MISS OUT ON T HE

ICELANDIC MOVIE

'T M I S ON THIS

ICELANDIC TV SERIES

ICELANDIC MOVIE

ON ON

ICELANDIC MOVIE

Lof mér að falla / Let Me Fall R I Drama ELÍN SIF HALLDÓRSDÓTTIR EYRÚNIBJÖRK137 JAKOBSDÓTTIR KRISTÍmin. N ÞÓRA HARALDSDÓTTIR LÁRA JÓHANNA JÓNSDÓTTIR ÞORSTEINN BACHMANN SÓLVEIG ARNARSDÓTTIR

'T M I S ON THIS

ICELANDIC MOVIE

I S S OU

FOR YOUR ENJOYMENT WE'VE SELECTED THE BEST OF

I S S OU

DON'T MISS OUT ON T HE

'T M

ICELANDIC MUSIC!

ICELANDIC MOVIE

Tryggð / The Deposit PG I Drama I 89:23 min.

'T M I S ON THIS

ICELANDIC MOVIE

I S S OU

ICELANDIC MOVIE N

'T M

FOR YOUR ENJOYMENT WE'VE SELECTED THE BEST OF

ICELANDIC MOVIE

Language: Icelandic (with English subtitles)

ou with your search for the are in Iceland, we’ve compiled escription of some noteworthy n the Dining Advisor brochure at pocket in front of you.

ICELANDIC TV SERIES

Stella Blómkvist R I s1 e1 I Drama, Detective I 45 min.

Víti í Vestmannaeyjum / The Falcons G I s1 e1–6 I Children, Family I 22 min.

SpongeBob Squarepants s6 e15–17 I PG I Animation, Comedy, Family I 30 min.

Wacky Races s1 e1–2 I PG I Animation, Comedy, Family I 30 min.

Icelandic Film Company

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMS

Language: Icelandic/English

Dora the Explorer s1 e1–3 I PG I Animation, Comedy, Adventure I 30 min.

The Looney Tunes Show s2 e1–2 I PG I Animation, Comedy, Family I 30 min.

Please note that you have many more audio books, films and TV programs to choose from on the in-flight entertainment system. The films and TV programs listed here are only a small selection. Ratings are provided according to the US system but may vary from country to country.

Icelandair Stopover 84

PLACES TO DISCOVER ON YOUR ICELAND STOPOVER

GREENLAND Nerlerit Inaat

From city center to countryside in under an hour Our domestic airport is conveniently located in downtown Reykjavík, and a trip across the country that’s as quick as your average commute means that you can get started in no time. Check out Air Iceland Connect’s route network and journey times.

A rct i c C i rc l e

Ísafjörður

airicelandconnect.com

. 40 m in

Breiðafjörður

Stykkishólmur

Ljósufjöll

Snæfellsjökull

GREENLAND Ilulissat Kulusuk Nuuk Narsarsuaq

Blöndulón

Langjökull

Faxaflói

Geysir Gullfoss Þingvellir

REYKJAVÍK Keflavík

Bláfjöll Blue Lagoon

Hekla

EyjafjallajökullMýrdalsjökull Katla

N o r t h 85 Icelandair Stopover

Vestmannaeyjar

A t l a n t i c

O c e a n

Grímsey

Siglufjörður

Þórshöfn Húsavík

Dettifoss

Akureyri

Vopnafjörður Dimmuborgir Mývatn

Egilsstaðir

Hofsjökull

. min

Askja Holuhraun

Djúpivogur

Vatnajökull Höfn

Þórisvatn

Öræfajökull

FAROE ISLANDS Tórshavn

Icelandair Stopover 86

WE MAKE A POINT OF REWARDING CUSTOMERS FOR LOYALTY Did you know that members of Icelandair Saga Club earn Saga Points for all Icelandair flights, for their purchases on board and with our partners around the world? These little points pack a lot of punch.

Joining is easyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;you can use our on-board Wi-Fi on your mobile device or computer and join right now. It is free to visit icelandair.com.

+ icelandair.com

By joining Icelandair Saga Club you can: Book flights with Saga Points partly or for the whole airfare

Buy products and refreshments on board with your Points

Acquire Saga Silver or Saga Gold status with increased benefits by flying regularly with Icelandair

Earn Saga Points through Booking.com and Rentalcars.com

Upgrade with Points and enjoy your next flight in a better seat

Use your Points to book a hotel or rent a car

DO YOU FLY REGULARLY WITH ICELANDAIR? Our frequent flyer program, Icelandair Saga Club, has multiple benefits for all members as well as special offers and benefits for our most frequent flyers who have acquired Saga Silver and Saga Gold status.

Saga Gold and Saga Silver benefits:

Members can earn from 850 to 7,200 Tier Credits for each leg with Icelandair and need 40,000 Tier Credits to become a Saga Silver member and 80,000 Tier Credits to become a Saga Gold member.

SAGA SILVER

SAGA GOLD

One upgrade a year*

Upgrade every time you fly*

Saga Premium check-in

Lounge access

Excess baggage

Spouse Card available

Complimentary Spouse Card

Limousine service

Priority on waiting lists

Parking at KeflavĂk Airport

Complimentary Wi-Fi on board

Icelandair Golfers membership

Fast track through security

* To the next cabin when space is available.

89 Icelandair Stopover

THE ICELANDIC

PENIS MUSEUM It´s all about Dicks

Laugavegur 116 • 105 Reykjavík • Tel.: +354-561-6663 • phallus@phallus.is • www.phallus.is Open: 10-18 • Next to Hlemmur bus station • No pornography or offensive material in the museum.

Special sightseeing taxi tours We specialize in personalized sightseeing day trips to the natural wonders of Iceland

We´ll make you a Comfortable Price offer! Book a taxi with ease. Download the Hreyfill Taxi App

– for small groups of 4-8 persons

The taxi app is FREE and available in iOS and Android.

All major credit cards accepted by the driver. We specialise in trips to the Blue Lagoon(3-hour stop)on the way from or to the airport

2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014,

2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009,

“ and also”.... BEST GOD DAMM RESTAURANT 2011

TOP TEN : BEST RESTAURANTS IN ICELAND DV. 17.06.11 always been the best from the reviews

in our local people and local newspaper

there's a reason why we get an award every once a year

BanThai RESTAURANT

www.banthai.is

--------------------------------------------

L a u g a v e g u r 1 3 0, v i ð H l e m m TEL : 5522444, 692- 0564

“

Ban Thai is not “fast food” food made fresh from scratch, it‘s not pre-made,

“ and ” every year before :

“

AWARDS

BEST THAI FOOD 2019

To book in advance: tel:+354 588 5522 or on www.hreyfill.is E-mail: tour@hreyfill.is

Icelandair Stopover 90

ICELANDAIR FLEET n n n n n n n n

Number of passenger seats: 262 Seating arrangement: 2-3-2 in Economy, 2-1-2 in Saga Premium Length: 180 ft 3 in / 54.9 m Wingspan: 166 ft 11 in / 50.9 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.80 / 461 kn / 531 mph / 854 km/h Maximum range: 5,988 NM / 6,890 mi / 11,090 km Maximum takeoff weight: 412,000 lb / 186,900 kg Engines: 2 x General Electric CF6-80C2B6F

BOEING 767-300

n n n n n n n n

Number of passenger seats: 225 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy, 2-2 in Saga Premium Length: 178 ft 7 in / 54.5 m Wingspan: 134 ft 7 in / 41.0 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.80 / 461 kn / 531 mph / 854 km/h Maximum range: 3,200 NM / 3,682 mi / 5,926 km Maximum takeoff weight: 273,000 lb / 123,800 kg Engines: 2 x Rolls-Royce RB211-535E4-B

BOEING 757-300 n n n n n n n n

BOEING 757-200

n n n n n n n n

Number of passenger seats: 183 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy, 2-2 in Saga Premium Length: 155 ft 3 in / 47.3 m Wingspan: 134 ft 7 in / 41.0 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.80 / 461 kn / 531 mph / 854 km/h Maximum range: 3,915 NM / 4,505 mi / 7,250 km Maximum takeoff weight: 250,000 lb / 113,400 kg Engines: 2 x Rolls-Royce RB211-535E4 Maximum range based on full passenger load

Passenger seats: 178 Seating arrangement: 3-3 Economy, 2-2 Saga Premium Length: 138 ft 4 in / 42.1 m Wingspan: 117 ft 10 in / 35.9 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.79 / 453 kn / 521 mph / 839 km/h Maximum range: 3,515 NM / 4,045 mi / 6,510 km Maximum takeoff weight: 194,700lb / 88,314 kg Engines: 2 x CFM International LEAP-1B

BOEING 737 MAX 9*

n n n n n n n n

Number of passenger seats: 160 Seating arrangement: 3-3 in Economy, 2-2 in Saga Premium Length: 129 ft 6 in / 39.5 m Wingspan: 117 ft 10 in / 35.9 m Cruising speed: Mach 0.79 / 453 kn / 521 mph / 839 km/h Maximum range: 3,515 NM / 4,045 mi / 6,510 km Maximum takeoff weight: 181,200 lb / 82,200 kg Engines: 2 x CFM International LEAP-1B

BOEING 737 MAX 8* *Temporarily suspended from operations at the time of publishing.

91 Icelandair Stopover

VOLCANIC WONDERS Each of Icelandair’s aircraft is named after a magnificent natural phenomenon. For this issue, we have chosen to highlight three aircraft that represent the volcanic wonders of Iceland: Helgafell, Hlöðufell and Hengill. Iceland has 30 active volcanic systems, of which 13 have erupted since its settlement 1,100 years ago. Did you know that the red in the Icelandic flag pays tribute to these volcanic wonders?

HELGAFELL I TF FIT I HEL-gah-fetl I Boeing 757-200. Helgafell is an inactive 745-ft (227-m) volcanic cone overlooking an important fishing town on Heimaey island, in the Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands) archipelago. Its neighbor, Eldfell, erupted in 1973, covering a large part of the island and forcing islanders to evacuate. Photo by Sigurgeir Jónasson. Courtesy of the Vestmannaeyjar Photo Archive (Helgafell is on the right).

HLÖÐUFELL I TF ISO I HLEU-thu-fetl I Boeing 767-300-ER. A tuya volcano 6 miles (9.6 km) southwest of Langjökull glacier, Hlöðufell was formed when lava erupted through a thick ice sheet that covered all of Iceland during the Pleistocene epoch, which began 2.6 million years ago and lasted until 11,700 years ago.

HENGILL I TF FIX I HEN-gitl I Boeing 757-300. Hengill is a volcanic system close to Reykjavík that last erupted 1,900 years ago. It’s the home of the Hellisheiði Geothermal Plant, the third largest geothermal power station in the world, supplying electricity and hot water for heating houses in the greater capital area.

Read more about our aircraft and their names at icelandair.com/about/our-fleet.

767-300

Eldgjá TF-ISP Gullborg TF-ISW Hlöðufell TF-ISO Svörtuborgir TF-ISN

757-300

Hengill TF-FIX Þingvellir TF-ISX

757-200

Bláfjall TF-FIK Dyngjufjöll TF-ISS Eldborg TF-FIN Eldfell TF-ISK Eyjafjallajökull TF-FII Grábrók TF-ISV Grímsvötn TF-FIS Hekla Aurora TF-FIU Helgafell TF-FIT Herðubreið TF-FIA Katla TF-FIV

Keilir TF-ISJ Ketildyngja TF-ISR Krafla TF-FIO Laki TF-ISF Magni TF-FIC Öræfajökull TF-ISL Skjaldbreiður TF-LLX Snæfell TF-FIP Snæfellsjökull TF-ISD Surtsey TF-FIJ Torfajökull TF-ISY Vatnajökull TF-FIR

MAX 9

Hvítserkur TF-ICA* Langjökull TF-ICB* Kirkjufell TF-ICC*

MAX 8

Dyrhólaey TF-ICU Jökulsárlón TF-ICE Látrabjarg TF-ICY Mývatn TF-ICN* Búlandstindur TF-ICO* Landmannalaugar TF-ICP* *Aircraft joining the fleet in 2019.

Icelandair Stopover 92

PASSENGER GUIDE

PORTABLE ELECTRONIC DEVICES Always permitted

Permitted at gate and above 10,000 feet*

Power outlets are located in all seats on Saga Premium and Saga Premium Flex. USB outlets provide power to charge small personal electronic devices, such as mobile phones, cameras or iPods.

Aircraft B757-200 I Aircraft B757-300 Hearing Aid

Pacemaker

DVD Player

Plug

Laptop / Tablet

NOTE: *Larger PEDs (more than 1 kg) such as laptops must be securely stowed in overhead compartments or under the seat before takeoff and landing.

Rows 1–14

USB

All rows

NOTE: PEDs must be disconnected from any in-seat electrical power supply during taxiing, t akeoff, approach, landing and during abnormal or emergency conditions.

Always permitted*

Tablet

E-reader

Smartphone (in-flight mode)

Camera (digital, film, video)

NoiseCanceling Headphones (power ON)

CD Player

Media Player

Handheld Game

WHAT ELECTRONIC DEVICES CAN I USE ON BOARD THE AIRCRAFT? Handheld devices with flight mode Handheld devices, such as tablets, e-readers and mobile phones, may be used during all phases of the flight, provided that flight mode is enabled before departure. Devices must be safely secured in the customer’s hand or pocket during taxi, takeoff and landing. Devices without flight mode Any device that transmits or receives radio signals but does not have flight mode must be switched off for the duration of the flight. Laptops and other larger devices These devices may be used during boarding but not for taxi, takeoff and landing. They may be used in-flight. They shall be stowed away safely during taxi, takeoff and landing. Other devices without connectivity This includes items such as DVD players, electronic games and music players. Only small, handheld devices may be used during taxi, takeoff and landing. Larger devices must be switched off and stowed away safely during takeoff and landing.

93 Icelandair Stopover

NOTE: *Small lightweight Portable Electronic Devices, or PEDs – 1 kg or less (iPhone, iPad, iPad mini, Samsung Galaxy phones & tablets, Nokia, Microsoft Surface, Kindle e-reader, digital cameras, etc.) are permitted as long as they are secured during takeoff and landing. Passengers must either hold their PED or securely place it in the seat pocket. Lightweight PEDs may not be unsecured on the seat beside them. PED cords or accessories are not to impede emergency egress. We ask passengers to remove their headphones and pay attention to the safety briefing.

Are there times when I can’t use my handheld devices? Flight or cabin crew may ask you at any time to switch off all electronic devices should interference be detected. Can I connect to Wi-Fi (if provided in-flight) even if flight mode is enabled? Yes. Cellular services must be turned off (flight mode) at all times, but other wireless services such as Wi-Fi may be used above 10,000 ft if a connection service is installed in the aircraft. It is possible to re-enable Wi-Fi and connect to a Wi-Fi network while flight mode is enabled. A peaceful cabin for everyone To keep the cabin peaceful, please use headphones when listening to music or other material and place computer games and such on silent or very low volume. Precaution If your mobile phone or tablet gets caught in the seat, please inform the cabin crew and they will assist you. If a battery operated device overheats during the flight, inform the cabin crew immediately.

WIRELESS INTERNET ON BOARD SEE OUR WI-FI PORTAL FOR PRICING INFORMATION How do I connect to the Wi-Fi network? 1. Make sure your mobile device is set to flight mode during all phases of flight. Then activate Wi-Fi on your device. 2. Choose the “Icelandair Internet Access” network. 3. Open your browser of choice and then press “Get Wi-Fi” if using a laptop. On your phone, choose either the “Wi-Fi” or “Complimentary” option. What you can expect The connection speed is similar to 3G. Keep in mind that the on-board Wi-Fi is therefore not as fast as home connections. The number of users can affect the speed of the connection. Wi-Fi is available from the moment you board and until you leave the aircraft. A new state-of-the-art Wi-Fi system will be implemented across all of Icelandair’s fleet in the coming months.

What can I do when connected? You can check your email. n You can browse the web. n You can use social media and other communication platforms. n

Do I need to set my smartphone or tablet to flight mode? All smartphones and tablets may be switched on at all times, but in flight mode only. You might have to activate Wi-Fi separately when your device is set to flight mode. Your device must be safely secured in your hand or pocket during taxi, takeoff and landing. You can stay connected throughout your flight – from the moment you board and until you disembark. What kind of device can I use? You can use a laptop, a tablet or a smartphone to connect. The connection will be activated on the same device you use to purchase or validate Internet access. When can I start using the Wi-Fi access? You will be able to connect as soon as you want, and the connection will be active throughout your flight.

ANCHORAGE

HELSINKI VANCOUVER SEATTLE

STOCKHOLM EDMONTON

OSLO

PORTLAND

SAN FRANCISCO ICELAND

BERGEN COPENHAGEN BILLUND BERLIN HAMBURG DUSSELDORF FRANKFURT AMSTERDAM MUNICH GLASGOW BRUSSELS ZURICH MANCHESTER MILAN LONDON DUBLIN PARIS GENEVA HEATHROW & GATWICK

DENVER

Now Icelandair Saga Club members can use their Saga Points to pay for Wi-Fi access. For more details, see the pricing information in our Wi-Fi portal. If you are having trouble connecting, please send an email to wifi@icelandair.is the next time you are connected to the Internet. More questions can be found in the Wi-Fi portal.

MINNEAPOLIS / ST. PAUL

MADRID CHICAGO KANSAS CITY

TORONTO MONTREAL

BOSTON WASHINGTON D.C. PHILADELPHIA NEW YORK JFK & NEWARK

ORLANDO

The pink color indicates network coverage on Icelandair routes.

Icelandair Saga Gold members and booked Saga Premium passengers get complimentary Wi-Fi access for two devices.

Icelandair Stopover 94

SAFETY FIRST Iceland’s vast nature is spectacular, unique—and unpredictable. Sunny and calm periods can transform into windstorms, blizzards and plummeting temperatures in a matter of hours. If you are planning to travel to a more isolated area, please leave a copy of your itinerary with the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue at safetravel.is, and, for all excursions, observe these tips: DRIVING When driving, keep your full attention on the road, especially on areas where tarmac turns to gravel. Blind hills should be approached with caution. It is illegal to operate a vehicle after consuming alcohol.

On single-lane bridges, the car closer to the bridge has the right of way, but it is always wise to stop and assess the situation.

Only take Highland roads if you have a 4x4 jeep, and make sure you have the experience necessary to operate these vehicles in tough conditions.

Roads can be quite slippery during winter, especially after frost in the early morning. All Highland roads are closed during winter.

Off-road driving is illegal.

HIKING When you are hiking, be prepared for sudden weather changes, stick to your travel plan, and dress appropriately, with water- and wind-resistant clothing, gloves and hats.

Do not get too close to cliff edges or hot springs. When waves are big, stay far from the water’s edge; be especially vigilant along the south coast, which is open to the Atlantic Ocean.

If you get lost, call 112, the emergency service line. Stay where you are and wait for rescue services to find you.

The search and rescue association also offers a free emergency app, downloadable from their website. Your coordinates will be sent to the emergency response crews should you use the app. There is more information on safe travel in Iceland on our in-flight entertainment system.

Visit safetravel.is for equipment lists, travel plans and the latest traveling conditions.

95 Icelandair Stopover

KNOW YOUR EMERGENCY NUMBER ICELAND / EUROPE �� 112 USA AND CANADA �� 911 UK �� 999 / 112 icesar.com Emergency calls are free to make from mobile phones. If you’re on the other side of the Atlantic, or in Iceland from North America, don’t forget to check on arrival if yours is working. Some phones operate on a different bandwidth and will not work in foreign countries.

ICELANDIC SEARCH AND RESCUE:

OUR COUNTRY’S BRAVE VOLUNTEERS If you get lost on a mountain, can’t find your way at sea, or encounter virtually any other difficulty in Iceland’s outdoors, the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue (ICE-SAR) is there to help. In a country with no military and only a few coast guard vessels and helicopters, ICE-SAR’s 3,000 highly-trained volunteers command deserved respect from both locals and visitors. Their teams deal with thousands of calls annually and are available 24 hours a day, on land or at sea. So while the vast majority of trips to Iceland will be without incident, you can rest easy that, should the need arise, the nation’s most experienced people will be prepared to save lives and prevent accidents under even the harshest conditions. Remember too that rescue operations are expensive to launch: Advanced equipment is used and volunteers take time off from their jobs to take part. ICE-SAR relies entirely on donations to finance itself; you can contribute via their website, icesar.com.

SAFETY ON BOARD We put safety first on all of our flights. The in-flight safety video gives a good overview of what you need to know for a safe journey. Please follow the instructions carefully and check out the safety card in your seat pocket. The cabin crew is there to assist and keep you safe at all times so please follow their guidance and suggestions. All electronic devices (mobile phones, tablets, e-readers) have to be switched off or in flight mode during the flight. Of course, this does not extend to heart pacemakers, hearing aids and other devices needed for medical reasons. If your mobile phone or tablet gets caught in the seat, please inform the cabin crew and they will assist you. If a battery operated device overheats during the flight, inform the cabin crew immediately. Whenever the seatbelt signs are on please: n

Stow devices larger than 10.5 in (27 cm) and/or more than 2.2 lb (1 kg) in the overhead compartment.

Hold devices smaller than 10.5 in (27 cm)

Please note that your life jacket may be located under your seat, above your seat, or in the armrest.

and lighter than 2.2 lb (1 kg) or stow them in the overhead compartment or seat pocket. To keep the cabin peaceful please use headphones when listening to music or other material and place computer games and such on silent or very low volume.

place it under the seat in front of you. Be careful when opening the compartments as luggage may have shifted. When space is limited we might need to store some hand luggage the luggage hold. Smoking is prohibited on all Icelandair flights. This includes vaping.

For your safety and comfort we recommend that you keep your seatbelt fastened and visible throughout the flight. Store your hand luggage in the overhead compartments or

ICELANDAIR ALLERGY POLICY Icelandair cannot guarantee an allergen-free environment on board its aircraft. Therefore, we strongly encourage passengers with severe allergies that can result in anaphylaxis to bring an epinephrine auto-injector (EpiPenÂŽ) and any other medications they may need. The meals offered on Icelandair flights do not contain peanuts or peanut products, such as peanut butter, although trace elements from peanuts may be found in meals.

In addition, tree nuts (e.g. almonds) may be found in meals on board, and fish and shellfish are sometimes on offer in Saga Premium. Unfortunately, it is not possible to remove tree nuts, fish or shellfish from the cabin. In the case of severe nut allergy, our cabin crew can make an allergy announcement on board, asking other passengers on the flight not to consume foods that contain nuts. Please contact Icelandair Customer support

at +354 50 50 100 at least two business days before departure to request an allergy announcement. We do, however, wish to stress that Icelandair can in no way restrict other passengers from bringing or consuming their own food on the aircraft that may contain nuts or other allergens. For that reason, it is possible to find traces of nuts on seat cushions, arm rests, tray tables, or elsewhere in the cabin.

Icelandair Stopover 96

VISA WAIVER PROGRAM – VWP – FOR TRAVEL TO USA Samningur um undanþágu frá vegabréfsáritun til Bandaríkjanna (Visa Waiver Program) gerir ríkisborgurum tiltekinna landa kleift að ferðast til Bandaríkjanna í skemmti- eða viðskiptaferð í allt að 90 sólarhringa án þess að sækja um og fá sérstaka vegabréfsáritun. Ferðamönnum, sem þessi samningur tekur til, er eftir sem áður heimilt að sækja um vegabréfsáritun ef þeir kjósa svo. Aðeins tiltekinn fjöldi ríkja eru aðilar að þessum samningi (VWP) og ekki er öllum ferðamönnum frá ríkjum, sem eru aðilar að samningnum, heimilt að nýta sér undanþáguna. Öllum ferðamönnum frá löndum, sem eru aðilar að VWP, er skylt að sækja um rafræna ferða heimild á vef bandarískra innflytjendayfirvalda (Electronic System for Travel Authorization—

VISA WAIVER PROGRAM The Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allows most nationals of participating countries to travel to the USA for tourism or business for up to 90 Lönd sem eru aðilar að samningnum um undanþágu frá vegabréfsáritun til Bandaríkjanna days without a visa. VWP travelers must have a valid Electronic System for Travel Authorization Countries participating in the Visa Waiver Program (ESTA) approval prior to travel and meet all n Andorra n France n Lithuania n Slovakia requirements explained at cbp.gov/esta. n Australia n Germany n Luxembourg n Slovenia n Austria n Greece n Malta n South Korea n Belgium n Hungary n Monaco n Spain n Brunei n Iceland n The Netherlands n Sweden n Chile n Ireland n New Zealand n Switzerland n Czech Republic n Italy n Norway n Taiwan n Denmark n Japan n Portugal n United Kingdom n Estonia n Latvia n San Marino n Finland n Liechtenstein n Singapore

ESTA). Þegar komið er til Bandaríkjanna verður starfsmaður innflytjendayfirvalda á

flugvellinum að staðfesta að viðkomandi ferðamaður hafi undanþágu skv. VWP og ferðamaðurinn er þá skráður í US-VISIT kerfið.

US CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM EN

Before arriving in the US, each traveler or head of family is required to fill this form out and present to US Customs.

Hver komufarþegi eða forráða maður í fjölskyldu skal gefa eftirfarandi upplýsingar (fyrir hverja fjölskyldu dugar EIN yfirlýsing).

Vor der Einreise in den U.S.A müssen Sie eine Zollerklärung ausfüllen. Ein Formular pro Familie ist erfordert.

1. Eftirnafn, skírnarnafn, miðnafn

1. Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname

2. Fæðingardagur dagur / mánuður / ár

2. Geburtsdatum / Tag / Monat / Jahr

3. Fjöldi fjölskyldumeðlima sem ferðast saman

3. Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder

4. a) Heimilisfang í Bandaríkjunum (nafn hótels / áfangastaðar) b) Borg c) Fylki

4. (a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels / Reiseziel) (b) Stadt (c) Staat

Avant d’arriver aux États-Unis, il vous sera demandé de remplir un formulaire de déclaration en douane. Un formulaire par famille suffit.

1. Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom. 2. Date de naissance Jour / Mois / Année. 3. Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous. 4. Adresse aux États-Unis a) Destination ou nom de l’hôtel. b) Ville. c) Etat.

5. Útgáfustaður vegabréfs (land)

5. Pass ausgestellt von (Land)

6. Númer vegabréfs

6. Passnummer

7. Land búsetu

7. Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land)

8. Lönd sem var farið til í þessari ferð, fyrir lendingu í Bandaríkjunum

8. Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA

7. Pays de résidence.

9. Flugfélag / Númer flugs eða heiti flugvélar

9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes

8. Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l’arrivée aux Etats-Unis.

10. Markmið þessarar ferðar er viðskiptalegs eðlis JÁ / NEI 11. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis: a) ávexti, jurtir, mat, skordýr: b) kjöt, dýr, dýraafurðir c) smitefni, frumuræktir, snigla d) mold eða hef/höfum dvalist á bónda bæ /mjólkurbúi / beitilandi JÁ/NEI 12. Ég hef (við höfum) verið í snertingu eða meðhöndlað lifandi dýr JÁ / NEI 13. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis peninga / gjaldmiðil eða aðra fjármuni að jafngildi hærri upphæð en USD 10.000. (sjá skilgreiningu á fjármun-um á bakhlið seðilsins) JÁ / NEI

10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich. Ja/nein 11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten. (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte. (c) Krankheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken. (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/einer Ranch/Weide. Ja/ nein 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit). Ja/nein

14. Ég hef (við höfum) meðferðis varning (til sölu eða sem ég hef (við höfum) keypt eða fengið erlendis, sem ekki teljast til persónulegra eigna) JÁ / NEI

13. Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit.

15. Búsettir í Bandaríkjunum – andvirði varnings sem ég hef (við höfum) keypt eða fengið erlendis (einnig gjafir fyrir aðra) er: Ekki búsettir í Bandaríkjunum – andvirði alls varnings sem verður eftir í Bandaríkjunum:

(Siehe die Definition von Zahlungsmitteln auf der Rückseite). Ja/nein

14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten) Ja/nein 15. Ansässige – der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschliesslich der kommerziellern Waren, die ich (wir) im Ausland gekauft oder erworben habe(n) - (einschließlich Geschenke an Dritte, jedoch ausschließlich Gegenstände, die per Post in die USA gesendet wurden) und in die USA einführe(n).

97 Icelandair Stopover

Besucher – der Gesamtwert aller Waren, die in den USA verbleiben werden, einschließlich der kommerziellen Waren, beträgt.

5. Lieu de délivrance du passeport (nom du pays). 6. Numéro de passeport.

9. Ligne aérienne / et numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau. 10. Vous voyagez pour raison d’affaires. OUI /NON 11. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes. b) viandes, animaux, produits provenant d’animaux ou d’animaux sauvages c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots d) terre. J’ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis, OUI / NON 12. J’ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail. OUI/NON 13. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d’espèces ou d’instruments monétaires d’une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d’instruments monétaire au verso) à plus de 10 000$ US. OUI / NON 14. Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstra tion ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels). OUI/NON 15. Résidents : La valeur totale de tous les arti cles (y compris les marchandises commer ciales) que j’ai / nous avons acheté ou acquis à l’étranger et que j’apporte / nous apportons (y compris cadeaux, mais qui excluent les effets affranchis vers les États-Unis) aux ÉtatsUnis. Visiteurs : La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis (y compris les marchan dises commerciales).

TRENDY TOUCHES

CULTURE AND CUISINE

TASTY AND TRADITIONAL

Pair creative, award-winning chefs with fresh, seasonal and local produce and you can’t go wrong. Add exquisite interior design and you’ve got Geiri Smart: a feast for all senses.

A charming gem at the heart of Reykjavík, Hannesarholt restaurant is the century-old home of poet and politician Hannes Hafstein. Lunch Tue-Fri and weekend brunch or a ThuSat night dining menu with fish, lamb, vegetarian and vegan dishes.

Focusing on Icelandic cuisine, the atmospheric Lækjarbrekka has operated in one of Reykjavík’s oldest buildings since 1981. Here you will find traditional Icelandic courses in their original home-cooking style as well as with a modern twist.

HANNESARHOLT • RESTAURANT REYKJAVÍK • STEIKHÚSIÐ THE LOBSTERHOUSE • SLIPPURINN • GEIRI SMART ESSENSIA • VOX • TORFAN • SATT • LÆKJARBREKKA

Over the past few years, Iceland’s culinary scene has taken huge leaps forward. With more selection than ever before, it should be easy to find a restaurant somewhere in the country that tickles your fancy.

13 OF OUR FAVORITE RESTAURANTS IN REYKJAVÍK To help you with your search for the perfect fare in Iceland, we’ve compiled a short description of some noteworthy places in the Dining Advisor brochure in the seat pocket in front of you.

You can also dive into a culinary episode on the in-flight entertainment system and Wi-Fi portal on board.