3 minute read
Saltbrush Elevates Boise’s Culinary Scene
By Alan Heathcock
This spring marked the opening of Saltbrush, an ‘elevated yet relaxed’ restaurant in the Lucy Building on Grove Street and 4th in downtown Boise. At Saltbrush, business partners Neil Grant and Erik Johnson envisioned a space that’s welcoming but sophisticated. Both are experienced restaurateurs, Grant having owned and managed restaurants in his native South Africa, while Johnson, a Boise native who’s also Saltbrush’s head chef, earned his culinary stripes in California’s wine country. With an assist from world-class Designer Tristan du Plessis, they’ve created a dining experience that succeeds on every level: a space that radiates warmth and elegance, an interesting and eclectic menu of delicious seasonal offerings, excellent cocktails, and a wine list to rival any in the region.
Walking into Saltbrush, it’s immediately clear that this space has been designed with meticulous care. The room, long and filled with light, carries a feeling of old-world elegance—crystal chandeliers, gold accents, red-brown leather on the chairs and fronting the room-length bar. It all exudes charm and class, part art deco, part Euro café, part Boise-kind. The openness of the room, the tables set side by side—with long tables often shared by multiple parties—and a hint of woodsmoke in the air from the Spanish Mabrasa oven, the space crackles with inviting energy. Grant said the concept of a restaurant should be driven by location, and Saltbrush feels like the Boise that celebrates the finer things in life while never being fussy.
Johnson fell in love with seasonal menus while working in wine country and sees seasonal fare as an opportunity to show off the best of what local farmers and meat producers have to offer. Saltbrush’s menu features several large-plate options, from a gorgeous Pacific sablefish accented with mushroom dashi to a Snake River Farms NY strip steak with dashi mashed potatoes and chimi chili crunch. The large plates are excellent, but the stars of the menu reside in the Small Share Plates. Wood fired asparagus with hollandaise, Hamachi crudo, duckfat potato, and pork cabbage rolls are just a few of the plates that are completely delicious and completely unique to Saltbrush. Chef Johnson delivers dishes that lean into subtle umami flavors, savory but never heavy and fresh but deeply satisfying, with offerings that foodies will appreciate but your average non-foodie diner will enjoy, too.
For those who love a drink to go with their food, Saltbrush excels. The cocktails are interesting and innovative. There’s an expertly curated offering of sake and vermouth. However, Grant and Johnson’s mutual love of wine shines the brightest. They love the little guys and hidden gems, wines from small producers who put love into every bottle. You can order wine by the glass from Spanish winery Quinta Da Muradells, or select bottles from their ever-evolving list of wineries from around the world.
There is thoughtfulness and talent embedded into every facet of Saltbrush. The space looks and feels great. The service is impeccable. The food and drink offerings are elevated but unpretentious. This is a perfect place to gather with friends after work or to make a special evening out on the town. Cheers to the entire crew at Saltbrush for delivering a fabulous new option to Boise’s fine-dining scene.
