Cross-Country Skiing Your Troubles Away

PHOTO TOM HELMER

Idaho offers hundreds of miles of cross-country ski trails, meaning exercise and peaceful adventure are just minutes away

BY MICAH DREW

So you want to avoid lift lines but still want to enjoy the feeling of gliding on fresh snow and breathing in mountain air? Welcome to Idaho, with hundreds upon hundreds of miles of cross-country ski trails waiting for you. But wait—skiing with no mechanized lifts?!

Cross country skis

PHOTO MUFFY RITZ

Cross-country skiing is an umbrella term that includes two types of skiing: classic skiing and skate skiing.

Classic skiing is the original version of cross-country that involves using a “kick and glide” stride to move skis in a parallel motion. On groomed trails, skiers use grooved tracks to stay in line, but the technique can also be used off-trail in the backcountry.

Skate skiing, on the other foot, looks a lot like its moniker implies: imagine speed skating in the Olympics or roller skating down a sidewalk and apply that motion to the snow. Skate skiing is a faster discipline that uses the diagonal side-to-side stride to glide across groomed corduroy. Ungroomed- or backcountry-friendly, it’s not.

For centuries, cross-country skiing has been a favored form of transportation in northern regions with long winters, which explains why Scandinavian countries have dominated the Olympic sport since the first winter games in 1924. Despite its lengthy history, however, cross-country skiing remains the less-popular cousin to hitting the downhill alpine slopes.

In Sun Valley, often called NordicTown, USA, Muffy Ritz has been working to change that for the last 25 years.

Since 1978, Ritz has been a competitive skier, first as an All-American at the University of Colorado, then racing internationally with the Rossignol Nordic Team and the U.S. Ski Team. In 1996 she was living in the Wood River Valley and coaching the Sun Valley Ski Education Foundation’s cross-country teams and realized there were few opportunities for adult beginners to learn to ski, and even fewer for women.

“For a long time, middle-aged women really weren’t doing a lot of sports,” Ritz says. “Women would follow their husbands, but no one would teach them how to ski, so they’d just futz around on the snow, frustrated.”

After she was approached by a woman who wanted some lessons, Ritz decided it would be more fun to organize a like-minded group. Almost accidentally, the VAMPS (Vomen and Muffy’s ProgramS) bloomed in the snow.

“We found a niche that needed to be filled,” Ritz says. “Women began flocking to the group. I had to hire a friend who was a former ski team member. I remember waking up in the middle of the night in a panic not knowing what to do about it. I thought I’d created a monster!”

The VAMPS began with four women and within five years grew to more than 120. Now in its 25th year, the group is the largest all-women’s masters ski program in the country, offering beginner classes all the way up to race-specific training. Subgroups dedicate themselves to classic skiing and classes for those who want competitive, high-intensity weekly workouts.

The VAMPS have been so successful that Ritz says several attempts have been made to start a similar group for men. However, none of the four versions of men’s groups have been as big of a hit. The current iteration, the DONS, has survived for a few years with about 25 regulars. Maybe, the males just need to switch to a Greek acronym like KSS, the Kappa Sigma Snowmen?

“I’ve been a competitor all my life and pride myself in my athletic pursuits,” Ritz says. “But honestly, my biggest accomplishment is forming the VAMPS. It’s made a difference for hundreds, if not thousands, of women and that’s really special.”

ANYONE, ANY AGE

“There are a lot of sports out there that you see on TV at the Olympics like shot put or running the 100-meter dash that you’re just not going to do as a leisure activity for the rest of your life,” Ritz says. “Cross-country skiing is a lifetime all-female masters programs in the country, activity — it doesn’t matter how old you are when you start, it’s an all-inclusive sport. Even people in their 80s can start.”

Ritz recommends that anyone who wants to get into cross-country skiing start by visiting your local ski shop that specializes in cross-country equipment. She says that even “rank beginners” should rent or buy the best equipment they can afford.

“It really makes a difference to have quality equipment rather than old gear from a thrift store,” Ritz says. “And on day one, take a lesson. I’ve seen too many people get frustrated because they fall down and don’t understand what they’re supposed to be doing with their feet.”

On snow, inexperience quickly breeds frustration. Start on the flats and follow the easiest routes. In the beginning, keep to the maintained trails. Many resorts and public trails grade their routes the same way as ski resorts — green trails are easy, blue – intermediate, black – most difficult.

Stay upright, move forward, and congratulations! You’ve picked up a new sport! All you need to do now is “repeat,” and you’re sure to improve.

“Cross-country skiing will make you live longer, no matter when you start,” Ritz says. “There’s more than anecdotal evidence that active people live longer, healthier, more meaningful lives.”

The VAMPS, one of the largest all-female masters programs in the country, based out of Sun Valley, Idaho.

PHOTO MUFFY RITZ

TAKE IT UP A NOTCH

Once you’ve learned to ski, you can add in some workouts to increase physiological benefits.

“The thing about XC skiing, it’s one of the few sports that uses almost every muscle in your body,” Ritz says. “The big muscles, the little stabilizing muscles… in terms of fitness it improves your lungs, endurance, power, strength, and agility.” Like swimming, this sport taps into almost every system.

Dr. Steven Gaskill, a former U.S. Nordic coach and exercise physiologist, agrees that cross-country skiing offers one of the best all-around aerobic fitness activities while also connecting you with nature — a known psychological boost. Gaskill adds, “And it’s easy on the joints, as long as one stays upright. “

As with all aerobic exercise, Gaskill notes that skiing improves heart health, reduces blood pressure and risk of diabetes, and can improve cholesterol profiles, especially with higher-intensity workouts.

Ritz says her favorite workout to do on skis is intervals. She recommends taking a specific distance, from one to three kilometers, and then doing laps on that course, with breaks after each lap, aiming for consistent times.

“You get immediate feedback when you look at your watch,” Ritz says. “Suddenly, it’s not just a long section of trail. You can vary the challenge by working to get a few seconds faster on each lap.”

So get out there and get up on those cross-country skis! The wide-open winter wonderland and better health awaits!

The view from a backcountry yurt maintained by Idaho Parks and Recreation.

PHOTO TOM HELMER

Muffy Ritz competes in the 2018 Boulder Mountain Tour in Ketchum.

PHOTO MUFFY RITZ

FIND A TRAIL

Muffy Ritz has skied around the world and has favorite trails in Alaska, Wisconsin, and Lillehammer, Norway, but many of her top trails are right in Idaho, including those around Galena Lodge near Ketchum and around West Yellowstone.

Here’s a quick guide to get you out and skiing!

Bogus Basin: The Frontier Point Trail Network boasts 37km of trails groomed every morning, with an added bonus of 4.5km of lighted trails to ensure that the skiing doesn’t have to stop at sundown. The Nordic lodge offers lessons and rentals and you can buy day passes or opt for a full season pass. The Bogus Basin Nordic Team offers several community races throughout the winter for a chance to try your hand at skiing fast!

McCall: In the winter McCall is a veritable hub for Nordic enthusiasts. Jug Mountain Ranch, Tamarack Resort, the Activity Barn, and the Bear Basin Nordic Center all offer rentals and miles of trails.

Wood River Valley: The Blaine County Recreation District maintains miles of trails around the Wood River Valley. The 32km Wood River Trail links all four valley communities. Quigley Canyon east of Hailey provides another 13km of mostly beginner trails while the Harriman Trail provides a 20-mile connection between Ketchum and Galena Lodge. Of course, Galena is known for having some of the best trails in the country; Galena has more than 50km of groomed trails including several mellow loops from the lodge. Galena has certified ski instruction and a full-service ski shop and has four overnight yurts just a short ski away. Learn more by visiting bcrd.org.

PARK N’ SKI

The Idaho Department of Parks and Recreation maintains 17 Park N’ Ski locations that access more than 180 miles of groomed and ungroomed trails across the state. Passes are $7.50 per day or $25 per year.

Idaho City: Driving up Highway 21 from Idaho City offers a series of Park N’ Ski locations, ensuring that even if a lot is full there’s another one just down the road. Stop at Woop-Em-Up, Gold Fork, or Banner Ridge to access 50 miles of interconnected groomed trails. Head all the way up to Beaver Creek Summit for an additional three miles.

To learn about the other 13 Park N’ Ski location in the state, visit parksandrecreation.idaho. gov/activities/xc-skiing/park-n-ski-in-idaho/

Yurt Life: As an added backcountry gem, Idaho State Parks operates several backcountry yurts that can be accessed via skis in the winter. Each yurt is a circular, Mongolian-style domed tent that can sleep up to six people. All of the Highway 21 ski areas offer access to yurts. The yurts are designed to be self-guided backcountry experiences but they book up early, so plan ahead!

STATE PARKS

Idaho Parks and Recreation also grooms Nordic trails at more than 10 state parks including Harriman, Castle Rocks, Farragut, Lake Cascade, Ponderosa, Priest Lake, and Winchester.