Ideia Tours | Brazil Brochure

Dear reader,

about

ideia tours A dynamic partnership of Dutch-Brazilian management founded Ideia Tours over 15 years ago. Since then the company has been going from strength to strength as a full service destination management company. Uniting a wide experience of Brazil’s evolving travel market with a clear understanding of foreign visitor’s requirements and expectations. Ideia Tours is perfectly equipped to organise journeys anywhere in Brazil, both for groups and individuals with a wide range of services. Offering ground support at all levels from airport meet and greet, transfers, guide assistance, hotel reservations; to designing tailor-made itineraries for incentive and special interest travel; arranging excursions, sightseeing tours, selfdrive packages and river cruises to name but a few. Ideia’s success has grown from a high quality of service, competitive rates and a commitment to meeting the individual needs of each client.

ideia

In a difficult year for world tourism, Brazil has proved its economic strength, suffering a relatively mild impact from the credit crisis and swine flu. The world’s attention is now drawn towards Brazil as it hosts the World Soccer Championship in 2014 and the Olympic Games in 2016. Noblesse oblige, so the coming years will see a Brazil intensively preparing for these great sporting events and significant improvements in general infrastructure and hotel accommodation can be expected.

While the world starts watching Brazil more closely and interest in the country grows, Ideia Tours is celebrating its 15th anniversary and preparing for the future as well.

Our information and reservation system has been brought up to date with the latest technology and is ready to connect with clients’ systems, and our website has been improved to be more user-friendly. We are also proud to present our new reference manual, introducing some of the famous and lesser known regions of this diverse country, together with some of Brazil’s finest accommodation and a range of options for tour programs and journeys. The manual aims to be an easy-to-read summary of more comprehensive information that can be found on our website, giving you ideas and options to meet your clients’ travel wishes.

While we seek to present the beauties of this wonderful country, we realize how difficult it is even to come close to being complete. Given the expected boost to tourism in the coming years, new accommodation is being built as we write, new regions developed for tourism and new tour options become available every day. Despite priding ourselves on our team of knowledgeable collaborators doing their utmost to know Brazil better, we would therefore like to invite the reader to actively share their knowledge with us and keep us informed of any developments we might not be aware of.

I hope this manual inspires you to deepen your interest in Brazil and its extensive potential for leisure travel. It will be a pleasure to work with you and to design any kind of travel program here.

Bernard van Steen Ideia Tours director

ideia

north amazon Belém Santarém Boa Vista Tefé Alta Floresta

Manaus

Amazon Cruises

08 09 10 11 12 14 14 16 16 18 19 20 20 20 22 22 22 24 26 26 28 28

Marajó Island Package Tapajós Rainforest Experience Expedition Monte Roraima Uakari Floating Lodge Cristalino Jungle Lodge Amazon Ecopark Lodge Tiwa Amazonas Ecoresort Juma Lodge Amazon Rainforest Adventure Station Amazonat Jungle Lodge Amazonat River Lodge Amazon Village Ariaú Amazon Towers Anavilhanas Lodge Guanavenas Pousada Jungle Lodge Aldeia dos Lagos Amazon Riverside Mainan Amazon Clipper Cruises Iberostar Grand Amazon Amazon Dream Amazon Experience Voyage to the Heart of the Amazon

central west pantanal Palmas Brasília Campo Grande Cuiabá

North Pantanal [Cuiabá]

South Pantanal [Campo Grande]

32 33 34 35 35

Jalapão Chapada dos Veadeiros Bonito Nobres Chapada dos Guiamarães

37 37 38 38 38 40 40

Rio Mutum Araras Eco lodge Piuval Rio Claro Puma Lodge Pantanal Wildlife Center Jaguar Research Center

42 42 44 44 44 46 46 46 48 48

Refúgio Ecológico Caiman Refúgio da Ilha Baía Grande Cacimba da Pedra Baía das Pedras Barranco Alto Barra Mansa Pousada Xaraés São João Ecological Camp Selfdrive Package

p. 31

southeast

northeast Salvador

Recife

Fortaleza São Luís

52 56 58 59 60 61

Salvador Chapada Diamantina Praia do Forte/Costa do Sauipe Península do Maraú Itacaré Valença/Morro do São Paulo

62 65 66 67 68 70 70

Recife/Olinda Serra da Capivara Backlands and Beaches Pernambuco Backlands Fernando de Noronha Atlantis Voyager Wreck-Diving Selfdrive Recife - Salvador

72 74 75

Fortaleza Adventure Packages - 4x4 Lençois Maranhenses

Rio de Janeiro

Belo Horizonte São Paulo

south Foz do Iguaçu Curitiba Porto Alegre Florianópolis

96 98 100 100 101

Foz do Iguaçu Curitiba Superagui Itaimbezinho Rio do Rastro

festivals 102 104 104 104

Carnival Reveillon Festas Juninas The Bull of Parintins

78 83 84 86 87 88 90 93

Rio de Janeiro Serra dos Orgãos and Itatiaia Coffee and Gold Tocorimé Cruise Selfdrive Rio - Belo Horizonte Minas Gerais & Brazilian Baroque São Paulo Selfdrive SãoPaulo - Rio

brazil overview

so

why

brazil?

What’s the reason your client should definitely come and visit Brazil?

Of course Brazil, with over 8.5 million square kilometres is the world’s fifth largest country and, with nearly 200 million (relatively young) inhabitants, also the fifth largest population, one of the BRIC countries, a respected member of the G20, the tenth biggest economy in terms of GDP, the world’s largest producer of commodities such as coffee, sugar, beans, orange juice and papaya; and the second largest of beef, chicken, soya, tobacco and iron ore. Moreover, Brazil is a democracy with a stable economy and self-sufficiency in energy and currently one of the world’s prime destinations for foreign investors and visitors.

But then your client might not be so interested in business, politics and statistics – perhaps they’re tired and wish to relax.

So Brazil has a coastline of nearly 7,500 kilometres long boasting some of the world’s most beautiful beaches from Praia do Rosa in the South to Jericoacoara in the Northeast, and so many in between: Ilha Grande and Buzios near Rio de Janeiro; Trancoso, Arraial d’Ajuda, Morro de São Paulo, Praia do Forte and Sauípe all in Bahia; Maceió; Tamandaré and Porto de Galinhas in Pernambuco; Pipa, Natal, Canoa Quebrada and too many others to list.

Still, there are beaches elsewhere in the world.

It might not just be beaches your client is looking for.

Natural wonders, then! The waterfalls of Iguaçu, the largest in the world; the Pantanal: huge wetlands the size of France in the Central West, the best place to see wildlife; the Amazon Rainforest of course, the lungs of the world and 20% of the planet’s fresh water supply; the Lençóis Maranhenses, shaped by the joint forces of wind and sea, unique in the world.

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Whales can be watched in Santa Catarina or around the Abrolhos Archipelago. How about trekking in some of the rugged highlands such as the Chapada Diamantina in Bahia, Chapada dos Veadeiros near the capital city of Brasilia, the Chapada dos Guimarães near Cuiabá, or Itatiaia near Rio? Or truly experiencing Brazil’s great waters by rafting in Jalapão in Tocantins state, diving in Fernando de Noronha, or snorkeling in the crystalline rivers of the Central West?

A little culture, perhaps?

Of course, but where to start? Near Monte Alegre in the Amazon and in the Serra da Capivara State Park in Piaui, ancient peoples have left rock paintings, ceramics and other remains that contradict current beliefs about the presence of humans in South America. Along the former gold route from Minas to Rio, the Estrada Real as it was called in the colonial era highlights of Brazilian Baroque, can be admired in towns like Diamantina, Ouro Preto, São João del Rei, Tiradentes and, of course, beautiful Paraty by the coast. Early baroque is still present in historical Olinda and Pelourinho, the old town of Salvador. And what about music and dance, both famous and lesser known rhythms such as bossa nova, samba, pagode, choro, forró, axé, maracatu, frevo, xote, xaxado, boi-bumbá, carimbó? There are too many to list – a real Aquarela do Brasil can be heard year-round from the many bars all over the country, on loudspeakers in the streets and cars, all culminating in the June festivities and, of course Carnival. And there’s so much more: we haven’t mentioned the big cities like Brasília, São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro with their modern architecture, contemporary museums and one of the recently elected Seven Wonders of The World: the Statue of Christ on top of Corcovado mountain. Did we forget to mention sports: the art of (beach) football, and (beach) volleyball? I think we forgot to mention that most tourists gain a few pounds during their holidays because of Brazil’s rich and varied cuisine? Yes, certainly we did forget to mention Brazil’s greatest asset… its hardworking, fun-loving, hospitable, open-hearted and beautiful people.

So the real question might be:

Why Brazil only once?

north

central west

brazilian

regions

south

northeast southeast Boa Vista

Belém

Manaus São Luís Fortaleza

Recife

Palmas Salvador

Cuiabá

Brazil

Brasília

Belo Horizonte

Campo Grande São Paulo

Foz do Iguaçu

Rio de Janeiro

Curitiba Florianópolis

Porto Alegre

South America

brazil overview | 05

North

The Amazon River system, which in area and number of tributaries has no equal, contains one fifth of the planet's fresh water. From the north and south, the “black” rivers, such as the Rio Negro, drain the flat, ancient Brazilian soils, whilst the “white’ Rio Solimões carries the melted snow and rich sediment of the Andes. Near Manaus the two rivers flow alongside for about 8 km without mingling. From this confluence the river is officially called The Amazon, the Madeira, Tapajós, Xingú and Tocantins then joining the river as it widens to nearly 320 km towards its mouth.

The Amazon River system is the pulsing vein of the largest area of tropical forest in the world. A tenth of the world's 10 million recorded species thrive here, including 2,000 species of fish,

8,600 species of bird, 1,800 species of butterfly, 50,000 higher plant species and countless species of insect. Covering around 6 million square kilometres in Brazil, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, Guyana, Surinam and French Guyana, the Amazon Rainforest comprises three ecosystems: the terra firme, or higher areas; the várzea along the river banks, which flood every 6 months; and the mata inundada or igapó swamplands at the river's mouth.

The climate is equatorial, with an average temperature of 27ºC and a rainy season from December to March.

Amazon

lodges & packages

Marajó island package ex Belém From Belém travel about four hours by ferry road and motor boat to arrive at Fazenda Nossa Senhora do Carmo, centred on a traditional wooden ranch house that can accommodate up to 20 visitors in rustic comfort. In addition to fresh water and mosquito netting, the farm has a television, telephone and swimming pool with sundeck, the cuisine including buffalo meat and cheese.

The surrounding area of natural grasslands can be explored by jeep, on horseback or even on tame water buffalo, accompanied

by Marajó cowboys. Whilst the grassland wildlife includes capibaras, anacondas, wild pigs and birds, a motor canoe trip up the mangrove creeks of the Camará River enables visitors to spot birds, sloths, monkeys and alligators. By night alligators can also be spotted by flashlight on the banks of the river near the house. A short jungle walk takes visitors to an archaeological site of the mysteriously disappeared Marajoara indian tribe, where examples of their famous pottery can be found.

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Tapajós

rainforest experience ex Santarém

Located in Pará state, where the clear Tapajós and light brown Amazon rivers meet in a spectacle of contrast, the pleasant town of Santarém serves as a base from which visitors can explore this fascinating region. As well as displaying evidence of prehistoric occupation, the area was home to one of the largest pre-Columbian populations in the Americas, whose ceramics and agricultural techniques date back 2,000 years.

Indigenous communities such as the Jamaraqua and Maripá now inhabit the surrounding rainforest, including the flooded forest, where iguanas, sloths,

monkeys, toucans, parrots and many other bird species can be seen. Home to turtles and pink dolphins, the rivers fall back during the dry season to reveal fine white beaches.

On higher ground a little way up the Tapajós, the village of Alter do Chão has splendid views of the river and its turquoise lagoon, whilst upstream lie the Tapajós National Forest, the intriguing former rubber plantations of Fordlândia and Belterra and the Tapajós Extractive Reservation. Accompanied by experienced local guides and camping for several nights under Amazon skies, this trip requires physical fitness.

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Expedition monte

Roraima ex Boa Vista

Located in the remote frontier lands of Brazil, Venezuela and Guyana, Mount Roraima suddenly rises 500m from the dense Amazon rainforest. Accompanied by an experienced indigenous crew including a translator, cook and porters, participants undertake a 6-day trek to reach the peak and return. From the top of this mystical 31 km2 plateau, at an impressive altitude of 2,739 meters, visitors are rewarded with incredible rock formations sculpted by weather conditions and an awe-inspiring view over the endless canopy of cloudforest below.

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Mount Roraima is subject to extreme climatic variations, from crystal-clear night skies with temperatures near freezing point to the baking equatorial sun, and torrential rainfall, with frequent envelopment by low clouds. But most importantly, the dramatic thunderstorms which gave the mountain its name, in the Yanomami language Roro Ima translates as ‘Thundering Mountain’. By all accounts a pearl of biodiversity, Mount Roraima and its surrounding rainforests possess an extremely rich and largely unexplored flora and fauna, including various

endemic species, carnivorous plants, orchids and exotic birds. Expeditions can be organized throughout the year, although the best time for visiting Monte Roraima is during the dry season, from October to March. This expedition requires physical fitness as it involves daily treks of up to 5 hours.

Uakari

floating lodge ex Tefé Located on the north bank of the Solimões River and accessible only from the town of Tefé, 525 km west of Manaus, the Uakari Floating Lodge offers the unique possibility of experiencing from inside the largest reserve of flooded rainforest in the world, the million hectare Mamirauá Sustainable Development Reservation. Constructed to enable scientists and tourists to explore the reservation with minimal impact on the environment, the 10-apartment floating lodge was named Uakari after the various types of Uakari monkeys that live in this part of the rainforest.

Whenever possible, scientists working on the reservation are invited to inform visitors about their research programs subsidized by the Brazilian government, private companies and the Wildlife Conservation Society.

Scientific observation complements traditional knowledge, as both local and scientific guides accompany visitors on walks or canoe trips, depending on the season, through the flooded forest, whilst inhabitants host visits to local communities to show their way of life. Jungle hikes cover an area where a variety of monkeys can usually be seen, even some Uakaris.

Mamirauá Lake is an ideal location to spot fresh water dolphins, hoatzins and, after sunset, alligators and nocturnal animals like spiders and opossums. north amazon | 11

Cristalino jungle lodge

ex Alta Floresta

Cristalino Jungle Lodge is located in a private natural heritage reserve adjacent to the 456,800 acre Cristalino State Park, recently created by the government of the state of Mato Grosso and flanking the Cristalino River in Alta Floresta, in the southern highlands of the Amazon River basin.

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Cristalino Jungle Lodge is the work of a family who are pioneering conservation and sustainable projects in the Alta Floresta region, providing support for scientific and applied research through the Cristalino Ecological Foundation, which levies an environmental tax of US$ 50 per visitor.

With 4 exclusive VIP bungalows; 4 superior rooms and 8 standard rooms all with private bathroom, hot showers, ceiling fans and screens; the lodge also has a common living room, dining room and bar, a thatched patio for outside dining or relaxing, a small natural history library and a floating deck for swimming, wildlife observation, fishing and relaxation.

There is a new 50 meter-high observation tower (also with platforms at 20 and 30 meters) which enables a 360° view over the rainforest canopy, and a variety of programs ranging from easy to challenging, basic to expert. Designed for visitors of all ages interested in learning about the Amazon flora and fauna and the relationships among the great variety of species living in the world’s largest continuous rainforest, the Brazil Nut and Giant Otter ecological packages are easy programs that include trekking and river tours with expert naturalist guides, all nights being spent at the lodge.

Cristalino river

The Hilae I and II adventure packages focus on jungle survival techniques such as building a jungle shelter, making fire and finding water, with levels ranging from easy to difficult, some programs including abseiling and canyoning.

The Harpy Eagle package is a specially developed bird watching program. With a bird list of 570 species and new species found each year, and 2000 butterfly species, the region of Alta Floresta and Cristalino river basin is visited by leading ornithologists and birdwatchers. Clients can choose from a set of trails and tours to visit various habitats, whilst the lodge has resident birdwatching guides.

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Ecopark jungle lodge ex Manaus

Tiwa amazonas

ecoresort ex Manaus

Located in dense primary forest half an hour by boat from the yacht harbour pier in Manaus, the Amazon Ecopark Lodge has a total of 20 bungalows, each with 3 suites equipped with air-conditioning, fan and private bathroom with hot water.

The lodge has an open-sided thatch roof restaurant, a private beach and two natural freshwater pools, plus a private “Monkey Jungle”. Regular connections with the airport enable stays of varying length, all but the shortest programs including a visit to the Meeting of the Waters, the confluence of the Negro and Solimões rivers

Located just 20 minutes from Manaus on the opposite bank of the Rio Negro, with speedboat connections at any time, Tiwa Amazonas Ecoresort is the only lodge that offers the possibility of seeing the city by night. Built partly on stilts alongside a jungle stream, the hotel features full-board accommodation in 26 chalets, each with 2 apartments, and evening entertainment with live music, Boi Bumbá shows of Amazon folklore and beach barbecues.

Excursions include the Tiwa Jungle Tour with visits to plantations of tropical flowers, the Port of Manaus, the Meeting of the Waters, Janauary Lake with its giant Vitoria Régia water lilies, and a canoe trip to a local caboclo community, plus piranha fishing and nighttime alligator spotting.

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that forms the Amazon. Optional excursions include tours in dugout canoes to observe the local flora and fauna, visits to the home of the caboclos, the local residents, evening boat trips to spot alligators, hikes through the forest and a Jungle Survival Course.

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Juma lodge ex Manaus

Located on the banks of Juma Lake, 100 km south of Manaus, Juma Lodge is a small-scale jungle lodge harmoniously integrated with the surrounding environment and built on stilts to cope with the annual flooding. The lodge was carefully planned and built with five different types of local timber, whilst the roof is made of palm leaves, giving the lodge the feeling of an indigenous village. The 23 rooms are all equipped with fan and private bathroom and carefully protected with mosquito netting. The trip from Manaus

Amazon rainforest

adventure station ex Manaus

Located 80 km southeast of Manaus within a 5,000 hectare private biological reserve of untouched primary rainforest protected since 1984, the Amazon Rainforest Adventure Station features a floating central module that sits like a pearl in the middle of a giant river lagoon, surrounded by the lush green jungle.

There are 5 lateral floating modules comprising 16 apartments fully equipped with double or twin beds, mosquito nets, fans, and washbasins, plus 3 central

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or the airport begins with a 20-minute Amazon crossing to the village of Careiro, passing the Meeting of the Waters, and a 40-minute minibus trip along the Manaus – Porto Velho road to the Araça River. An exciting 1 hour by speedboat completes the journey to the lodge through the igarapés, the narrow creeks that offer visitors their first close contact with the overwhelming Amazon rainforest.

Although due to the incredible seasonal changes in Amazon water levels these journey times vary. Excursions include a

bathrooms and 3 central showers. The central module also contains the rustic yet sophisticated reception and bar, furnished with comfortable sofas and hammocks; and the restaurant, which serves a varied menu of local and international dishes. The lodge’s recreation area is a square floating deck, where visitors can sunbathe and relax, or plunge into the lake for a refreshing swim. Packages include accommodation, all meals, guided excursions and pick-up and drop-off at Manaus hotels or airport.

As the Rainforest Adventure Station is a birdwatchers’ paradise, a special package includes excursions to observe the regions’ many bird species.

sunrise tour to see the birds fly out, an afternoon reconnaissance tour by motorized canoe, a fishing trip returning at sunset and nocturnal wildlife observation by canoe. There are also jungle hikes and a visit to the local inhabitants to see how they live and manufacture products from local crops.

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Amazonat

jungle lodge ex Manaus

Designed with great respect for the environment and located 160 km from Manaus on the paved road to Itacoatiara, the Amazonat Jungle Lodge can accommodate up to 54 guests in 9 twin chalets each with 2 apartments. All apartments feature a bedroom with queen-size bed, bathroom and living area with an additional single bed, plus a fan and fully-stocked minibar. A large outside deck with hammocks provides close, safe contact with the jungle.

The lodge also has a restaurant, swimming pool, massage centre, a natural white sand beach bordering a mineral-rich blackwater

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lake, an orchid park, and an orchard with over 5000 local fruit trees. Trails lead through the dense primary and secondary forest, where jungle survival courses and overnight stays at an open sided palm-frond hut, or even (with several month prior arrangement) ‘extreme jungle trekking’ can take place.

Guests to Amazonat are free to adjust the planning and timing of their activities, with tailor-made and long-stay packages being available.

Amazonat

river lodge ex Manaus

A floating river lodge on the banks of the blackwater UrubĂş river, 50 kms away from the jungle lodge, this accommodation has been designed for relaxation and comfort. The restaurant is found on the panoramic upper deck, while the sundeck below provides easy access to the completely safe waters for taking a refreshing dip.

waterlilies, or search for caiman by torchlight. Specialist guides conduct small group jungle treks deep into the forest and organise visits to local communities to learn about the lives of farmers, see small-scale fruit plantation, livestock, and experience village life.

The 10 apartments including, 2 deluxe suites, hold a maximum of 20 guests, and each have private facilities, mosquito screens, fans and space to unwind. Canoe trips enable visitors to see grey and pink dolphins and the giant Vitoria Regia north amazon | 19

Amazon Village ex Manaus

Ariaú

Amazon Towers ex Manaus

Anavilhanas lodge ex Manaus

The Amazon Village lodge is located on the banks of a seasonal lagoon in the upper reaches of the Puraquequara river, a minor tributary of the Amazon that drains a region carpeted by pristine rainforest some 30 km northeast of Manaus. Visitors arrive by regional river boat, passing the Meeting of the Waters on the 2½-hour voyage. With a capacity for over 80 guests, the lodge consists of a central house with open-air reception, restaurant, lounge-bar and games area,

authentically decorated with local art; surrounded by 21 bungalows, each with 2 separate apartments.

About 35 miles from Manaus up the Rio Negro, Ariaú Amazon Towers is a large complex of towers linked by raised platforms through the trees, leading to a 50-metre high viewpoint for a breathtaking panorama of the Amazon forest. Built of regional hardwood, the lodge has a wide range of luxury suites, multi-room apartments and even treetop “Tarzan houses”, totalling 350 rooms and suites, all with private bathroom and balcony.

There are two swimming-pools, two restaurants, a 350-seat auditorium and a “science-house” with a National Institute of Amazonian Studies (INPA) display.

About 150 km northwest of Manaus, the Rio Negro river system widens to reveal a paradise of over 400 islands, each adorned with a thick rainforest canopy and seasonal river beaches.

protected area in comfort and style.

From the lodge’s pool deck, open bar, lounge and games area, guests can enjoy a fantastic view of the Rio Negro.

The Anavilhanas Archipelago is home to countless birds, tree-dwelling animals and aquatic wildlife, including the remarkable pink river dolphin. Anavilhanas Jungle Lodge provides tourists with a unique opportunity to explore this vast

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All accommodation units are equipped with mosquito screens, private bathroom with shower and veranda with hammock, discreetly integrated into the natural surroundings of the tropical rainforest.

Featuring excursions that include canoe trips, jungle hikes, visits to local dwellings and night-time alligatorspotting tours, Ariaú offers both longand short-stay programs.

Guests are accommodated in 16 spacious cabins, each cosily decorated and equipped with large, comfortable box beds, air-conditioning, hot water, mini-fridge and private veranda with hammock.

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Guanavenas jungle lodge ex Manaus

Aldeia dos Lagos ex Manaus

Amazon

Riverside Mainan ex Manaus

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Located about 240 km from Manaus on the Ilha de Silves in Canaçari Lake, Guanavenas Pousada Jungle Lodge is a first-class forest hotel built entirely of regional materials, having won several architectural awards. Reached by a 4 to 5 hour journey, mostly by road and a scenic boat trip along the Urubu River, the lodge has 53 apartments equipped with air conditioning, minibar and private bathroom; a meeting room, leisure area, two swimming pools and a tennis court.

Packages include all meals and guided jungle excursions, such as hiking and canoe trips through the igapĂłs and igarapĂŠs to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the flooded forest and the giant Victoria Regia waterlilies.

An eco-tourism project started in 1993 sponsored by the WWF and working with the people of Silves, a community along the Amazon River 300 kms from Manaus. All profits earned from Aldeia dos Lagos are re-invested in the area, focusing not only on conservation of the wildlife and waterways, but also on the importance of education, a better quality of life, and a sustainable future for the people. Navigate the labyrinth of flooded forest searching for waterbirds, caiman

and dolphins with a guide from Silves, or walk the native forest trails in awe of the incredibly rich eco-system. Climb to canopy lookouts, best at sunrise and sunset to catch a glimpse of the macaws, or stay overnight on the lodge's new floating hide. The emphasis at Aldeia dos Lagos is on cultural exchange, so to understand more about the community's past and present visit a family house where they will explain medicinal uses for plants, talk about their lives,

Located on the banks of the Amazon River, one and a half hours from Manaus by road and motorised canoe, Mainan Amazon Hotel rises out of the water. In keeping with the forest surrounding it, stilted walkways link the traditional wood and thatch buildings, from the floating port to one of 15 simple wooden bedrooms (all with private facilities and hot water) the guest will feel close to nature. Walk the trails among the 80 hectares of virgin forest learning about

the flora and fauna, hike terra firma to the hilltop viewpoint where you can see as far as the Meeting of the Waters, or climb the lookout tower to see above the forest canopy.

Guests can also visit a small community of caboclos, the mixed-race inhabitants of the Amazon region.

It is also possible to visit a rubber producing community, or to navigate the waterways paddling silently through the flooded forest and fishing for piranha.

and the traditions of their ancestors.

Take part in fishing trip, using primitive methods of spear or small net to catch your lunch and then roast it over a river beach fire. The lodge itself consists of 12 simple but comfortable rooms with private bathroom and air-conditioning, and all meals are included, rich in regional flavour.

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Amazon cruises

Amazon

Clipper Cruises

ex Manaus

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With a fleet of specially designed boats river cruises are offered on the Amazon and Rio Negro river systems. The 4 standard regional boats each hold between 10-20 people and offer similar levels of comfort and facilities, with double cabins, private bathrooms and air-conditioning. In addition, the new Amazon Clipper Premium has more cabins, additional comfort and a panoramic deck.

During the cruise, excursions on foot and by motorized canoe will take voyagers to small villages, river islands with sandy

beaches and a variety of ecosystems to observe the native wildlife and vegetation. There are three main scheduled itineraries, the first spends three days on the Amazon River, the second sails for 4 days along the Rio Negro, or to combine the two river trips spend 6 days and 5 nights aboard. A highlight of the Rio Negro or combined cruises, is navigating the remarkable Anavilhanas, the world's largest freshwater archipelago, more than 1,000 miles from the ocean.

Example description package: Clipper 4 days/3 nights Day 1 | Wednesday - Leaves the pier at the Tropical hotel at 14:30. Presentation on board of the staff, route and facilities.

Welcome drink. Navigation upstream to the Pagod達o river, a tributary of the Rio Negro. Canoe trip shortly before sunset, returning after dark, with the possibility of observing nocturnal animals and perceiving the change in the forest as night falls. Dinner and overnight.

Day 2 | Thursday - Breakfast. Walk in the forest with explanations by a specialist guide. Observation of the flora. Visit to a caboclo family to see the local way of life.

Lunch. Navigation through the Anavilha-

nas, the world's largest freshwater archipelago, more than 1,000 miles from the ocean. Dinner. Night trip to observe caimans, frogs, sloths, snakes, and other species, depending on the season.

Day 4 | Saturday - Canoe trip at sunrise for bird watching, discovering the flood plain, forest and lakes with giant waterlilies. Breakfast. Proceed to the Meeting of the Waters. Return to the Tropical hotel pier with arrival at 11:30.

Day 3 | Friday - Visit to the village of Novo Air達o, with its handicraft center, boatyards, sawmills, market and other activities. Lunch. Navigation to Praia Grande or another white-sand beach.

Swimming if conditions permit, and observation of the vegetation of sandy areas. Canoe trip on Lake Acajatuba or adjacent lake to see regional flora, such as rubber trees, Brazil nuts and palm trees of various types. Fishing for piranhas.

Dinner. Night trip to observe caimans.

Proceed to Lake Janauary. Overnight. north amazon | 25

Iberostar

grand amazon ex Manaus See the Amazon while enjoying all the comforts of a luxury cruise. Everyday there is the opportunity to get closer to nature and Amazon life with guided jungle treks to explore the dense vegetation, motor boat rides onto huge lakes, birdwatching, fishing or a chance to meet local river communities. To complement these excursions, for those who would like to learn more, there are on-board lectures.

The evenings are also filled with activity of

caiman spotting, dance lessons, a folklore show, or live music in one of the ship's bars. On an all-inclusive basis all food, drinks and excursions are part of the package - from the sunrise rooftop breakfast to the last drink at night. The ship's facilities are similar to a 5* hotel with swimming pools, on-deck jacuzzi, fitness centre, two restaurants, bars, and 72 comfortable en-suite rooms. The Iberostar Grand Amazon offers two itineraries, either choose the dark tropical waters of the Rio Negro or the nutrient rich Rio SolimĂľes, both adventures finish in Manaus with views of the Meeting of the Waters.

Amazon

Dream ex Manaus Where the clear waters of the Tapajos River meet the Amazon’s brown waters, and the forest creeps down to white sandy river beaches is the city of Santarem, the homeport of the Amazon Dream riverboat. Designed with comfort and authenticity in mind the boat has nine spacious en-suite rooms, an upper-deck dining area where meals using local ingredients are served, and an open air observation deck. On board is an Amazon expert who will assist guests and provide fascinating information on flora, fauna,

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the life of local Caboclo communities and the realities of the Amazon region.

The length and itineraries of the journeys vary, but guests will always be delighted by the wonders of the forest, immense trees towering out of dark waters, lakes covered with giant water lilies, and the warmth of local communities welcoming guests into their stilted villages. The Amazon Dream can either be joined by individuals on one of the ship’s regular departures or chartered for a tailor made expedition.

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Amazon

experience ex Manaus On a typical Amazon riverboat with collective facilities and sleeping accommodation in hammocks, Amazon Experience is an affordable cruise aimed at small groups of budget travellers who prefer adventure off the beaten track.

Expert guides, familiar with the different possibilities that each season offers, adjust the program to provide an ideal combination of activities, whilst respecting individual wishes wherever possible.

Excursions include the Meeting of the Waters, trekking through the forest and setting up camp native-style, visiting the JaĂş National Park and navigating the Anavilhanas Archipelago, the largest river archipelago in the world. All meals and excursions are included.

Voyage to the Heart of the

Amazon

ex Manaus An elegant motor yacht, the MV Tucano has been modeled on a late 19th century steamboat, celebrating the great era of exploration as it cruises far up the Rio Negro, to untouched forest and in search of exotic wildlife. This 7-night adventure is not just from the comfort of the cruise, experienced naturalist guides accompany the guests on forest walks, canoe trips, and a visit to a local settlement, with plenty of time for seeking and observing.

Setting sail from Manaus for the first three days she travels deep into the Amazon basin, as far as the River Jauaperi where very few tourists venture, and then returns slowly along the south bank of the river

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visiting the town of Novo AirĂŁo and on the final day, the Ecological Reserve of Janauari. The boat is designed for maximum viewing potential, with large windows screened from insects (of which due to the dark waters there are not to many), broad balconies and an observation deck , combining the old fashioned charm of polished wood and brass decor with modern facilities throughout the nine en-suite rooms and spacious communal areas.

Amazon Odyssey, a shorter itinerary aboard the Tucano, is available for private group charter.

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Central West Although famous for The Pantanal, the Central West also has fabulous tablelands, with waterfalls, caves, rivers and rapids set in savannah-type vegetation. 65 km from Cuiabá and 800 metres above sea level, Chapada dos Guimarães is one of the oldest plateaus on earth and can be visited with the North Pantanal, whilst a trip to the Bodoquena Hills, rich in limestone, granite, marble and minerals, can combined with the South Pantanal and Bonito. The tablelands of Chapada dos Veadeiros in Goiás State and the Jalapão region in northeast Tocantins are also exciting destinations.

The Pantanal of Mato Grosso do Sul is one of the world’s great wildlife reserves, the veldt-like open land enabling the

visitor to see sunbathing alligators, deer, otters, emus, boa constrictors and monkeys in just a few hours. Campo Grande and Corumbá provide access to the Pantanal, with Cuiabá, the capital of Mato Grosso, as the main gateway. The Transpantaneira elevated highway starts just 135 km away and penetrates deep into the Pantanal floodplain along its 150km from Poconé to Porto Jofre.

Most of the region floods during the rainy season from December to March, whilst nesting and breeding occur in the dry season from July to October. The climate is humid tropical, with temperatures varying from 7ºC in June and July to 40ºC from December to February.

Jalapão ex Palmas

Covering about twenty percent of the state of Tocantins near the borders of three other states: Maranhão, Piauí and Bahia, Jalapão is a region of unspoilt savannah with splendid scenery of sandstone plateaus up to one thousand metres high, crisscrossed by perennial rivers, with waterfalls, lakes and fine, reddish sand dunes in the midst of sparse backland vegetation.

Jalapão is the perfect setting for adventure tourism and radical sports such as rafting, canyoning, climbing and abseiling.

Although considered a desert, the region has a wealth of fauna including the maned wolf, the pampas deer, the rhea, the giant anteater, the jaguar and other regional species that seek shade in the bush.

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With a constant 30ºC, there are two well-defined seasons: the rainy season from October to April and the dry season from May to September, when light camping, rafting and adventure trips are available.

A 4WD truck, takes visitors to the highlights of the Jalapão region, such as the Fervedouro spring, where it’s impossible to submerge; the Mumbucas community and the magnificent Jalapão sand dunes to enjoy the spectacular sunset. Campsites include river banks, from where the rafting sets out, with stops for swims and incursions into the beautiful surroundings, such as the village of Taquaruçu, which boasts no less than 70 waterfalls.

Chapada dos

Veadeiros ex Brasília

The state of Goiás is gaining a reputation as a major destination for ecotourism and the Chapada dos Veadeiros (Deer Mountains) National Park in the north of the state, comprising an area of 60 thousand hectares, has long been recognized as an important site of outstanding natural beauty. About 1,000 metres high and sitting on an immense block of quartz crystal, the tableland is the source of both the Tocantins and Paraná rivers. Recently having won fame for UFO

sightings, the region has a wealth of waterfalls, caves, rivers and rapids, plus stunning scenery of wild brush vegetation typical of the Brazilian savannah.

Wildlife includes armadillos, anteaters, wild pigs, capibaras and guará wolves.

The best way to explore the region is on foot with an expert guide.

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Bonito ex Campo Grande

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Currently known as Brazil’s capital for eco-tourism, the town of Bonito is surrounded by limestone plateaus and valleys with savannah-type vegetation.

The region is ideal for trekking, mountain-biking, horse-riding, kayaking, snorkelling and even scuba-diving. The rainwater infiltrates the calcareous soil and returns to the valleys in springs, giving birth to crystal-clear creeks and rivers with fantastic visibility, offering

close encounters with a wide variety of colourful fish. As well as floating excursions on the Sucuri and Prata rivers, visitors can enjoy the Blue Lake Cavern, where descending a rocky staircase reveals a mysterious blue lake, once worshipped by indian tribes.

The status of eco-tourism capital has brought careful regulation to protect this ecologically pure region, all excursions having been identified and consistently priced, with both authorization and local guide required.

Nobres ex Cuiabá

Beyond the Guimarães plateaus, 140 kms from Cuiabá mostly along an unpaved road lies the tranquil oasis of Nobres.

Crystalline flowing waters, freshwater pools and magnificent limestone caverns.

Set amongst transitional forest, between the savannahs of the Pantanal and the rainforest of the Amazon, the scenery is still virtually undiscovered by most tourist routes. Dip into the natural pools and

snorkel amongst the colourful aquatic life, coming face to face with tropical river fish rather than other tourists. Visit the plummeting waters of the Tombador waterfall and along the way walk part of an ancient stone trail, built by Brazil’s early explorers. Venture into one of the many caves, navigating between eerie stalactites and stalagmites to see impressive limestone formations, or vivid pools, and

the optical illusions made by both.

Following forest trails between waterfalls and canyons, you can enjoy the diversity of nature in the sheer quantity of plant and fish species. Or travel further out to Lagoa Azul where in the late afternoon, as the palm reflections are long on the still waters, it is possible to see the return of hundreds of blue-and-yellow-macaws to their nesting site.

Chapada dos

Guimarães

ex Cuiabá An important geological, archeological and natural site, protected as a National Park in the centre of the state of Mato Grosso. An easy journey of 64 kms from Cuiabá brings the visitor to a dramatic red sandstone escarpment, rising up to a plateau of 800m where the gentle winds bring a welcome relief from the heat of the lower lands. It is within this National Park that some of the headwaters of rivers flowing into the great Paraguay and Amazon basins begin. Numerous waterfalls, including Veu de Noiva cascading 86m into a spectacular canyon, can be visited as part of a circuit or for closer inspection by following trails and swimming in their fresh waters. Otherworldly rock formations, valleys and caves sculpted by the wind through the

sedimentary rock can be seen at Cidade de Pedra (City of Rock), 19 kms along a sandy road. There are many breathtaking viewpoints including the landmark Geodesic Centre of the continent equidistant from both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans and with views over the surrounding landscape - is a magical place to watch the sun go down. There is evidence, although not open to the public, that ancient communities lived in this area and still now some local villages keep their traditions alive with the production of ceramics, natural paper and art using plants of the savannah. The small picturesque town of Chapada dos Guimarães comes alive at the weekends when people from the city come in search of slower pace of life. central west pantanal | 35

The

Pantanal The Pantanal is the world’s largest wetland, a vast flood plain believed to have been ancient inland sea. During the wet season over two thirds of the land is covered in water, and the rich greenery is a wildlife paradise. Land mammals gather on islands of non-flooded forest and water birds perch in the semi-submerged trees.

The scenery is like nowhere else on earth.

In the dry season vast savannahs emerge, trees burst into colourful bloom and the wildlife travels to the shrinking watering holes in search of food. This incredible contrast of seasons attracts a huge diversity of species, whilst also allowing greater visibility than densely forested regions. Due to the difficulty of climate and terrain the wetlands, stretching across two of Brazil’s largest states and into Bolivia and Paraguay, have a very low human population most of whom are cattle ranchers or farmers. But it is this inaccessibility which has enabled the

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conservation of such a valuable and beautiful environment.

From the northern entry point of Poconé, a small gold mining town 135kms from Cuiabá, begin the red soils of the Transpantaneira. A dirt road originally constructed to assist the transportation of cattle in the region, also offers great views of the plentiful wildlife. Along this route lie many lodges usually as additions to the working farms, although the infrastructure as you journey deeper into the wetlands becomes more fragile and the vegetation wilder! It is in this furthest section that the elusive jaguar can sometimes be seen. After 150 kms and crossing 125 small wooden bridges, the track reaches an end at Porto Jofre and the Rio Cuiabá.

In the south it is the Estrada Parque, a sand and gravel road supervised by Pantanal caimans, which connects the lodges in the dry season. However, when

the seasonal floods arrive many of the lodges beyond the town of Miranda can only be reached by small aircraft. Here it is not only the overwhelming nature that attracts the visitor but also the Cultura Pantaneira, the way of life of the Pantanal cattle ranchers, their customs, traditions and local folklore.

Abundant wildlife is guaranteed everywhere. But to really see the best of the Pantanal stay at one of the carefully chosen lodges. Excursions are designed to ensure ample contact with nature through walks, boat trips, horseback riding, night safari with searchlights, dawn breaking and other wildlife observations. In some cases extras can be arranged like a panoramic flight, or for an unforgettable and adventurous experience join a cattle drive spending several days travelling by horseback across the great plain.

Pantanal

lodges & packages

Rio Mutum ex Cuiabá

Situated 140 km from Cuiaba in one of the most beautiful regions of the Pantanal, Pousada do Rio Mutum was built to comply with international accommodation standards and is oriented towards ecological tourism and sports fishing. As well as a restaurant, bar, swimming pool and souvenir shop, the lodge comprises 22 chalets, each with a spacious bedroom and private bathroom with hot and cold water, air-conditioning and veranda. The transfer to the lodge passes the village of

Mimosa, where the famous Brazilian explorer Marechal Cândido Rondon was born, whilst activities on arrival include hiking on trails used by the native pantaneiros and familiarisation with their way of life. Excursions on horseback and tours by motorized canoe on the Mutum River and Siá Mariana Bay enable visitors to fish, observe the wildlife and enjoy the beautiful Pantanal sunset, followed by alligator spotting.

Araras

Eco lodge

ex Cuiabá Along the Transpantaneira park road, 132 kms from Cuiabá, the Araras Eco Lodge offers rustic homely charm and a relaxing environment from which to enjoy the sights and sounds of the Pantanal. Known for views of the hyacinth macaw and for being particularly good for birding during the dry season, when many species crowd around the remaining roadside watering holes in this area. The 19 comfortable rooms all have air conditioning, mosquito nets, and private facilities, and guests can take a dip in the lodge’s swimming pool or

siesta in one of the veranda hammocks.

The wildlife adventure starts during the transfer, as soon as the Transpantaneira begins visitors are already immersed in the local flora and fauna. Trekking around the lodge, horseback riding and a night tour bring even closer contact with the environment, whilst canoe trips enable guests to spot aquatic wildlife and birds, and fish for piranhas. central west pantanal | 37

Piuval ex Cuiabá

Rio Claro ex Cuiabá

Puma lodge ex Cuiabá

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Easy to reach, the first lodge along the Tranpantaneira is Pousada Piuval. A family run working cattle ranch stretching across 7000 hectares, is a mixture of both rustic charm and modern comforts, with a variety of different activities to enjoy by day or by night. Wildlife spotting on foot, by truck or by tractor-trailer can take you to forested areas, marshlands and caiman infested rivers, or ride horseback for an authentic ‘Pantaneira’ experience.

Boat rides and piranha fishing at sunset on Piuval Bay is the perfect way to end the day. Each of the twenty air-conditioned rooms offers a cool escape as does the inviting pool or a shaded hammock. Three substantial meals a day are served often using products collected or grown on the property.

Situated next to the River Claro and 42 kms along the Transpantaneira the Rio Claro Lodge is a prime location for wildlife viewing. With a series of lakes, ponds and streams, in the wet season the final 3 kms to the lodge have to be traversed by boat.

No deforestation took place to build the lodge or cattle ranch and although immediately around the accommodation the fields are open (great for wildlife spotting), there is also a large forested area for shaded trails and horse riding.

The proximity to the river is ideal for water-based activities and at night you can travel by motorised canoe in search of caimans and nocturnal life. The lodge has twenty air conditioned rooms, a pool, and a separate restaurant/ bar area serving traditional food on a full board basis.

Penetrating deep into the heart of the Pantanal, 106 kms along the Transpantaneira is a comfortable well-equipped 12 room lodge. Newly built by a local family, the lodge uses only solar power but is still able to provide air conditioning and a pool to keep cool. Also with the environment in mind, the lodge chooses to offer the peaceful way to see and hear the Pantanal beauty – guided nature tours by bicycle or on horseback. Only 40 kms away is the end of the Transpantaneira

highway, crossed by the River Cuiabá where boat excursions, riverbank trails, and fishing trips take place. A sunrise walk and wildlife observation can be arranged on the final accessible property of Porto Jofre, and the night tours in this area are absolutely not to be missed.

Beyond this point, views of the Pantanal must be from the air.

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Pantanal

wildlife center

ex Cuiabá

Jaguar

research center ex Cuiabá

Specialising in wildlife viewing, photography and birding, the Pantanal Wildlife Centre has been thoughtfully designed and developed for guests to get the absolute most out of their visit.

Previously known as Fazenda Santa Teresa, located on the forested banks of the Pixaim River, PWC has earned its reputation as one of the best areas in the region for birdwatching complimented the lodge’s resident specialist guide. The lodge also boasts unique sightings of the

elusive and endangered giant otter just a few meters away, and guarantees viewing of the Brasilian Tapir. Silent electric river catamarans cruise along the river without disturbing the fauna, and unique mobile towers are used to ensure fantastic views of nests, flowering trees and the wildlife they attract. It is possible to walk trails of up to 5 kms through forest and savannah, or travel by horseback to areas otherwise inaccessible.

This is the place to see a jaguar. Of course there are no guarantees, as these are wild animals, however over an 81 day period 125 jaguars were seen. Established within the Meeting of the Waters State Park by two international wildlife biologists, the Jaguar Research Center aims to provide high quality eco-tourism as a means to sustainable future conservation of the Pantanal.

Depending on the season the accommodation is either a permanent tented camp, each tent with wooden floors, beds, electricity, fans and private hot shower bathrooms; or during the wet season a comfortable air-conditioned houseboat. At all times of the year the guest has at least 10 hours of boat time for intensive Jaguar tracking, with support given from specialist scout boats and expert guides. Other activities are also on offer with expertly guided forest walks to enjoy the spectacular scenery of Pantanal wilderness, wildlife and water birds, hoping also to catch sight of tapirs or giant otters.

[Araras] Originating from Latin-America the macaws enchant everybody with their wonderful colours and easy adoption to humans. Sadly enough, all 17 existing species, 13 of which are common in Brazil, are endangeoured animals. For instance, from the North-Bahian spix’s macaw, extinct in nature, there are only 78 left, all in scientific breeding stations. Good news however about the most impressive one, the hyacinth macaw (arara azul), that reaches a length of more than 1 meter: their population, thanks to several monitoring projects, is growing again. In the Pantanal, their favorite habitat, more than 3000 hyacinth macaws (arara azul)

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were counted, and several lodges offer the unique opportunity to observe them.

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Refúgio

Ecológico Caiman ex Campo Grande Located 236 km from Campo Grande, the state capital of Mato Grosso do Sul, the Refúgio Ecológico Caiman comprises the Caiman main lodge, with 11 rooms and a restaurant; the Piuvá lodge 100m away, with 6 rooms; the Baiazinha lodge with an observation tower, 9 km from Caiman; and the Cordilheira lodge, 13 km from Caiman, with 6 rooms and an observation tower; all surrounded by 53,000 acres of land. Each of the lodges equipped with kitchen, living room, hot showers and swimming pool.

Every day bilingual university-level guides, called “Caimaners”, accompany two excursions from a range that varies according to the season. At night there are audiovisual presentations and night tours to spot animals, whilst a farm tour shows the daily life of a Pantanal cattle ranch and truck-type vehicles take visitors on photo safaris. This year the lodge has changed its reservation procedure and now accepts individual bookings from mid-June to mid-September.

Refúgio

da Ilha

ex Campo Grande Refúgio da Ilha forms an ecological paradise covering 4,000 hectares of land actually on the delta where the clear waters of the River Salobra divide.

Close to the town of Miranda, the lodge is convenient to reach and rather than being a working ranch, is dedicated to eco-tourism. They are able to offer a wide range of activities on land and water all year around without being effected by seasonal flooding. Always with conservation and quality of service in mind, the professional guides conduct activities to

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enjoy the surrounding flora and fauna using electric motor boats, canoes, and on foot. The lodge has a small library for personal reference, a river observation deck, and seven comfortable bedrooms inside the rustic farmhouse. Woken by the natural dawn chorus of the Pantanal birds, wildlife activities will take place early morning and late afternoon with time in the middle of the day to relax, take a swim or even snorkel in the surrounding river.

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Baía Grande ex Campo Grande

Cacimba de Pedra ex Campo Grande

Baía das Pedras ex Campo Grande

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Baía Grande Farm has been owned by the same family for 100 years, in 2001 the doors were opened to tourism offering accommodation to a maximum of 15 guests. The Pantanal culture is very much still alive in the welcoming rustic environment of the lodge.

Share the local tradition of Tereré (or cold maté tea) with the farm workers, hear the folklore stories first-hand, and sample the delicious homemade cuisine.

Only 20 kms from Miranda the lodge can be reached all year round by road, and flora and fauna expeditions by truck, tractor-trailer, or on foot are always possible. Close to the lodge there is a huge bay (hence the name of ‘Large Bay’) where canoes, motorised boat trips and fishing trips take place. The Pantaneiro ranchers here are always happy to take out experienced riders for an afternoon of cattle herding.

As part of a government funded project to protect and support the Pantanal’s wild caiman population, Cacimba da Pedra has developed an educational caiman breeding and handling farm. Where the visitor can see the life cycle of these prehistoric creatures – from the hatchery, to the lake filled with fully-grown reproductive caiman. With guidance, the brave can take a rowing boat out onto this lake, or at feeding time throw meat to the hungry reptiles on the bank and at night watch the glow of their eyes in the

torchlight. The property and traditional Pantanal home has been in the family for generations, and while the guest rooms are in a separate bungalow, all home-cooked meals including delicious jacaré (caiman) are served in the main house. A day out on horseback cattle herding with the farm staff, fishing in the lake, or learning about flora and fauna on one of the many trails will hopefully draw to a perfect close with a sunset across the savannah.

Centre of the isolated community – Baia das Pedras feels a responsibility to maintain its traditional family house and hospitality. The vast property was originally a cattle ranch and now also a horse-breeding farm, the main house built in 1960 to cater for a family wedding, but in 2003 the family refurbished and opened up eight rooms available to guests. Accessible by light aircraft or in the dry season by 4x4s along a rough track, situated 300 kms from Campo Grande the lodge is set amongst lush forest

dappled by streams and large two fresh water lakes. With the family’s expertise, the horse riding here is not to be missed – whether simply to enjoy the surrounding wildlife and scenery or watch the excitement of cattle herding. Sunset treks through the woods, excursions by hand-made wooden canoes or night safaris, and at the end of the day enjoy a home-cooked meal from a wood-burn oven, even share the local maté and camp stories with the Pantaneiro cowboys.

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Barranco Alto ex Campo Grande

Barra Mansa ex Campo Grande

Pousada XaraĂŠs ex Campo Grande

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Fazenda Barranco Alto is one of the oldest and most traditional farms in the region, which in 1980 also became a conservation project and research station. Today it is an organic cattle farm practicing traditional farming methods and with only 4 guest rooms in their house, is known to be one of the smallest and most personal lodges in the Pantanal.

It is out in the wilderness 280kms from Campo Grande, well worth the 1 hour flight or 5 hour drive to visit the unique

ecosystem of black-waterways water-lily lagoons, salty ponds, shady forest glades and rich savannah grasslands all within the farm’s 11,000 hectares of land. Here it is possible to join the Pantaneiro cowboys on one of their working cattle drives, or to traverse the waterways by silent electric boats.

Camp out under the stars or learn more about the regional way of life through a visit to a local school.

Situated on a secluded area of land along the River Negro, surrounded by floodplains and flowing crystalline waters, Barra Mansa offers the guest a peaceful and private experience in one of the best-preserved areas of the region. It is one of the few lodges not involved in cattle farming and therefore their only source of income being from eco-tourism.

With its own landing strip, the easiest way to reach the lodge is by air and once you have arrived, there many ways to explore

the area. Native guides lead bird and wildlife viewing hikes on dry land, or horse-treks across both land and marsh.

With a variety of different boats to suit the conditions, Barra Mansa specialises in fishing trips. During the wet season it is also possible to see the annual natural phenomenon of enormous river fish migrating up-river to reproduce. Swim from the sandy riverbanks or paddle a canoe through the calm waters at sunrise to see the Pantanal come to life.

Travelling to the lodge along the Estrada Parque is a good introduction to the beauty and wildlife of the region. Along the banks of the Abobral River, during the wet season the journey has to be completed by boat. A large cattle ranch and now a tasteful 17 apartment lodge, XaraĂŠs has all the facilities the guest could want. From a tennis court, mini-gym and an ecological swimming pool, to cool comfortable rooms and well-informed naturalist guides, each qualified in biology

or ecology. Hikes and horse riding are great ways to experience the natural sights and sounds around the farmland, or gently paddle a canoe along the river in which giant otters can be seen fishing.

Whilst 4x4 safaris by day or by night, take guests to the further reaching parts of the property where larger mammals sometimes hunt.

The home grown and made meals are a treat, sometimes cooked over an open fire, and can be enjoyed whilst listening to campfire stories, or gazing at the awesome night sky.

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São João

ecological camp ex Campo Grande

Selfdrive package

ex Campo Grande

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To really connect with nature and enjoy the simple pleasures of the Pantanal spend a few nights at São João where hammocks hang between the wooden beams of basic huts, protected by mosquito screens, and sharing bathroom facilities; whilst traditional regional cuisine is served in another of the charming rustic huts for up to forty guests.

Local guides lead flora and fauna trips through the surrounding open savannahs and forested areas on foot, horseback or

bicycle. By day light, or at night by spotlight, truck safaris drive along the Estrada Parque to see the wildlife, and boat trips explore the nearby rivers. For the adventurous, it is even possible to organise a night wild camping deeper into the Pantanal.

A revolutionary idea, São João’s budget style of Pantanal accommodation has been so successful that many other lodges are now stringing up their hammocks to offer to guests.

From Campo Grande airport, this self-drive tour starts with a 4-5 hour journey on excellent roads to Bonito to visit the Blue Lake Cavern and go snorkelling in the River Sucuri. The self-drive information pack provides all the necessary route information, including accurate descriptions and maps. From Bonito, the travellers head north on a good gravel road into the southern Pantanal, crossing the Miranda River twice, and with the opportunity to visit the Boca da Onça private reserve to hike around 14 different waterfalls, the highest being 156 metres.

Reached along a small dirt road through forests and meadows the final destination of the self-drive tour is Refúgio da Ilha or Baia Grande, where visitors will discover the beauty of this unique ecosystem on foot, horseback and by motorized canoe, accompanied by an expert local guide.

After two full days observing the flora, fauna and as yet untouched landscapes, the travellers take the road back to Campo Grande.

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Northeast With an area of 1½ million square kilometres and nearly 45 million inhabitants, Northeast Brazil is divided into nine states: Bahia, Sergipe, Alagoas, Pernambuco, Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, Ceará, Piauí and Maranhão. The region was once the economic heart of colonial Brazil, with Salvador as its capital and the sugar-producing captaincy of Pernambuco its richest and most developed province.

Today the colonial architecture stands as an impressive monument to former wealth, whilst distinctive traditions and a unique ethnic mix have kept the art, craft and folklore of the Northeast alive over the centuries.

Stretching for thousands of kilometres from the south of Bahia to the northeast of Maranhão, the coastline boasts the most beautiful beaches in Brazil, with turquoise waters and year-round sunshine. As well as charming beach hotels and luxurious resorts, the adventurous will enjoy discovering the unspoilt beauty of Lençóis Maranhenses, Jericoacoara in the state of Ceará, and the breathtaking archipelago of Fernando de Noronha. The sparsely populated interior has natural monuments that will amaze even the most experienced traveller, such as the uplands of Chapada Diamantina in Bahia, the National Parks of Ubajara and Sete Cidades and the backlands of Pernambuco.

Salvador

and surroundings

52 | northeast

Brazil's first capital city sits on a peninsula overlooking the bay that gave the state its name. Bahia is synonymous both with a more relaxed pace of life and intense colour, music and spirituality, undoubtedly a consequence of Salvador being Brazil's strongest link with Africa. Proud of their roots, eighty percent of the inhabitants are of Afro-Brazilian origin and Candomblé, the Afro-Brazilian religious cult, permeates the city, home to the finest capoeira. With a wealth of Baroque churches and colonial architecture, the Pelourinho, or old town, is the focus of Salvador's exuberant nightlife and forms the splendid backdrop to Brazil’s longest and liveliest carnival celebrations.

Bahia’s famous artistic talents include the musicians Caetano Veloso, Gilberto Gil, Gal Costa and the Caymmi family.

On a boat trip across the Bay of All Saints, the sleepy colonial tobacco towns of Cachoeira and São Felix can be visited; and the city and its main monuments can be seen lighting up at sunset. A short trip up the coast of Bahia reveals the palmfringed beaches of Arembepe and Praia do Forte and the sophisticated resort complex of Sauípe, whilst to the south are the lively resorts of the island of Itaparica, Morro de São Paulo and the enigmatic town of Ilhéus. Set in the centre of Brazil’s cocoa-producing region, Ilheus is the birthplace of the novelist Jorge Amado, whose exotic stories include the worldfamous Gabriela, Clove and Cinnamon.

Nearby is the hidden beauty of the Itacaré coastline and Porto Seguro, where the Portuguese first landed in 1500; and the peaceful beaches of Arraial d’Ajuda,

Trancoso and Caravelas. The Abrolhos National Marine Park is a unique offshore wildlife sanctuary on the migration route of humpback whales.

400km west of Salvador is the Chapada Diamantina, a mountainous nature reserve with blooming hills, luxuriant valleys and perennial rivers. Around the pretty former mining town of Lenรงois, there are great opportunities for trekking, climbing, canyoning and bathing in waterfalls, whilst enjoying one of Brazil's most beautiful natural landscapes.

[Capoeira] If any of the unique Afro-Brazilian cultural expressions has conquered the world it is definitely capoeira.

Schools teaching this 400 year old combination of martial arts and acrobatic dance are found in all big towns around the globe.

History tells that runaway African slaves skilled themselves in fighting techniques based on Angolan traditions. Prohibited in the 19th century, the sport was modified into a virtually non-contact dance and nowadays it is seen as a way to dominate body and spirit, rather than to fight the opponent. For the many Brazilians of African descendent it means more: being proud of their roots and culture, kept alive during centuries of harsh oppression.

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Hotels Salvador

Villa Bahia Pelourinho

On the cobblestones of Pelourinho’s Largo do Cruzeiro square two colonial houses have been converted into a boutique hotel, decorated with historical pieces celebrating the Portuguese explorers.

The room numbers reflect the years that important discoveries were made (eg 1500: Brazil). A gourmet restaurant, two courtyards, a swimming pool and a rooftop terrace with fine views complete this well-succeeded concept hotel.

Solar dos Deuses Pelourinho

Located on the same square as Salvador’s most impressive monument, the São Francisco Church, this 17th century mansion enchants every visitor.

Each of the charming seven rooms is distinctively styled in tribute to one of the gods of candomblé, the Afro-Brazilian religion, whilst antique Bahian furniture completes the extraordinary atmosphere.

Even the breakfast is noteworthy: ordered à la carte the night before and served in your room, at no extra cost.

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Convento do Carmo Pelourinho

In the heart of Pelourinho a former Carmelite convent dating back to 1586 hosts now one of the most remarkable luxury hotels of Brazil.

Respecting every inch of its rich and glorious past, the building was transformed to offer sophistication and charm throughout the 79 rooms arranged around cloisters and courtyards.

Modern business and leisure facilities, a relaxing L’Occitane spa and fine gastronomy complete this multiple awarded hotel.

Casa do Amarelindo Pelourinho

Casa do Amarelindo is a charming hotel nestled in a fully restored 19th century building in the heart of Pelourinho, the historical district of Salvador. The hotel offers ten high-standard rooms, a swimming pool, a restaurant, two bars, a solarium, a fitness centre, a business centre and two tropical inner patios surrounded by the five-floor building overlooking All Saints Bay.

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Chapada Diamantina ex Salvador

56 | northeast

Located 400 kilometres west of Salvador, the “Diamond Highlands” form a vast oasis of flowered hills, lush valleys and perennial rivers in the middle of the barren backlands. This extraordinary region of 84,000 square kilometres is peppered with crystal-clear waterfalls, gorges, caves and potholes, all accessible with a local guide. Once a bustling diamond-mining centre of great importance to the European jewel trade, Lençóis still retains its rich architecture and distinctive local culture.

There is a wide range of tour packages featuring either light or physically demanding treks with night camping.

Walking upriver, visitors will discover the Spring Waterfall, admire chambers of coloured sand and bathe in refreshing mountain streams. About 75 km from Lençóis, the cave region has potholes with stalagmites and stalagtites, the astounding Blue Cave, where sunbeams produce a spectrum of colours, and the peak of Pai Inácio, with beautiful views of the sunset.

Canto das Águas Lençois

Built on the curve of the Rio Lençóis, and architect designed using local stone and wood, every room of this environmentally friendly hotel hears the sound of the flowing river. A place for meditation and relaxation with 44 unique rooms, a hillside massage tent, sauna, an impressive pool and gardens of native plant species. Solar energy provides hot water and social initiatives are supported by the hotel.

Hotel de Lençois Lençois

On a hilltop 200 m from the town centre, the hotel assures silence and beautiful views.

Pleasantly decorated and set in 5 hectares of gardens, Hotel de Lençóis is a member of Brazil’s Sustainable Tourism Program, which features a series of measures that include solar heating, energy conservation and the separation of all waste.

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Praia do Forte

& Costa do Sauipe ex Salvador

58 | northeast

With a strong emphasis on environmental preservation, Praia do Forte comprises twelve kilometres of untouched beaches with coconut palms, rivers, lagoons, colourful reefs and crystal-clear tide pools.

This “Brazilian Polynesia” also has excellent infrastructure, with a broad range of accommodation, including resorts; numerous leisure facilities and excellent cuisine. As well as being a great diving location, Praia do Forte is a base for a number of other watersports such as sailing and windsurfing.

Located 90km from Salvador, Costa do Sauípe enjoys the warm, clear waters of the South Atlantic and the steady breeze of the trade winds. Embracing one of the most natural landscapes found on the northern coast of Bahia, with breathtaking views of beaches and dense coconut groves, Costa do Sauípe also has white sand dunes, lakes, and a wealth of colourful, exotic vegetation within an Environmental Protection Area.

Península do Maraú

ex Salvador The stunningly beautiful Peninsular of Maraú can be reached from Itacaré by off-road jeep, by small aircraft from Salvador, or by boat across one of Brazil’s largest bays. The main route from Ilhéus is often impassable and best avoided. But at the end of the journey lies a natural paradise of virgin beaches surrounded by coconut palms, coral pools at low tide, tropical forest with giant bromeliads, and waterfalls tumbling into warm freshwater lagoons. Barra Grande, the largest of a handful of fishing villages at the end of the

peninsular, is a peaceful refuge with its unpaved roads and simple life.

It is an ideal spot to sail out to the islands and mangroves of Camamu Bay, or enjoy the diversity of wildlife on a canoe tour along the River Maraú. Swim in the lukewarm calm waters of Taipus de Fora, a 7 km stretch of white sand beach, or snorkel between the reefs and natural pools. Traditionally the peninsular has survived on fishing and an agricultural economy, palm plantations, rubber trees, cloves, black pepper, coco and the popular Brazilian berry guaraná. Tourism is now growing and more people are enjoying the capoeira and long sweeping beaches, but since Maraú is still very much off the beaten track it remains a tranquil Eden.

Kiaroa Resort Pen. do Maraú

This beachfront resort in Polynesian style offers total peace and relaxation in the midst of the Maraú eco-sanctuary, 3 kms south of Barra Grande village. Sumptuous suites or private bungalows and an array of leisure facilities including sports courts, a huge main pool with tropical island centrepiece, and a luxury spa were especially designed for guests seeking true harmony between body and mind. A private airstrip assures easy access.

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Itacaré ex Salvador

60 | northeast

The relaxed Bahian way of life, combined with picturesque beaches, tropical forest, adventure sports and the rhythms of continuous festivities, put the town of Itacaré on the tourist map ten years ago when the main road was built to connect it to Ilhéus. This part of the Atlantic Forest, now declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve is said to have one of the world’s richest combined ecosystems and is home to a particular endangered species of both monkey and sloth. The diversity of spectacular flora and fauna can be enjoyed from trails either on

the ground or up in the forest canopy, or from the meandering waterways whilst river rafting, canoeing or even canyoning in the pristine waterfalls. For beach-lovers the area offers a succession of over 20 pretty beaches and coves decorated by palms and forested hills, some with wild beauty and crashing waves populated by surfers, others more tranquil and suitable for swimmers. Itacaré is known for its choice of nightlife as much the daytime activities, with many restaurants serving regional dishes and the fresh catch of the day, colourful bars and the compelling beats of local reggae or forró bring party-goers out to the streets and beaches.

Valença & Morro do

São Paulo

ex Salvador

Located 265km south of Salvador on the banks of the river Una, the town of Valença was founded in 1799, its historical monuments and churches the silent testimonies to a rich colonial past.

Nowadays Valença lives completely off the sea, the fine seafood with many types of delicious shrimp and lobster welcoming the tourist, and the art of boatbuilding providing a fascinating attraction. Just off the coast lies Tinharé Island, lush with ferns, palm trees, beautiful beaches and

birds of paradise, and Morro de São Paulo, an idyllic fishing village overlooked by the lighthouse and the ruins of a colonial fortification. Although no cars are allowed here, Morro de São Paulo has a dynamic nightlife, especially during the Brazilian high season.

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Recife &Olinda and surroundings

The twin jewels of Brazil's formerly most prosperous region, Olinda and Recife are landmarks of the Portuguese and Dutch colonisation of these great sugarproducing lands. Built on a floodplain, Recife – called the Venice of Brazil – with its reefs, islands, bridges, rivers and mangroves contrasts with Olinda's narrow sloping streets, where colonial churches and monasteries stand alongside coconut groves and hanging gardens of exotic vegetation. The splendid colonial architecture of Olinda has been awarded the title of World Heritage Monument by UNESCO. Blessed with a majestic, palm-lined coast, the state of Pernambuco has fabulous beaches to suit all tastes: from Brazil's most beautiful and cleanest urban beach that stretches for 10km along the seafront of Recife's prestigious Boa Viagem district

62 | northeast

to calm, idyllic, outlying shores. North along the coast are the colonial towns of Igarassu, Itapissuma and Itamaracá.

Meaning ‘great canoe’ in indigenous Tupi, referring to the galleons of the Portuguese conquerors, Igarassu is the site of Brazil’s oldest church still in use, whilst the beautiful, green island of Itamaracá has the colonial town of Vila Velha and Forte Orange, built by the Dutch. The journey south of Recife reveals Pernambuco’s most beautiful beaches: the cove of Calhetas, the elegant resorts of Porto de Galinhas and Tamandaré and the unspoilt charm of Carneiros.

Pernambuco is proud of having Brazil's richest folklore, with carnival celebrations that have preserved an astounding diversity of European, African and indigenous influences in the form of dances and pageantry found nowhere else in Brazil. These include the largest

carnival gathering in the world; the colourful, acrobatic frevo dance; the Afro-Brazilian Maracatu and indigenousinspired Caboclinho groups; the creativity of fancy dress and virtuosity of musical performances. June brings the spectacle of forró dancing, whilst the exotic cuisine and fascinating handicrafts are present all year round.

Founded in 1535, Olinda is one of Brazil's largest and best preserved colonial towns, recently becoming the country's first Culture Capital. With its steep cobbled streets and colourful houses sitting majestically on the hillside overlooking Recife and the emerald sea, Olinda is surely one of Brazil's most charming and picturesque attractions. White colonial churches and monasteries stand elegantly against a backdrop of coconut groves, lush hanging gardens and the vast Atlantic

Ocean. A tremendous variety of brightly coloured art is produced and sold by skilled artists, reflecting the effervescent local culture. Numerous samba and frevo schools rehearse all year round, Olinda becoming a stage for these rhythms and choreographies in one of Brazil's finest street carnivals.

[Forró]

Could there be another dance craze conquering the land of samba? You will see the dance and hear the music everywhere, especially in the North and Northeast.

Accompanied by accordion music, forró is danced in pairs and can be slow and sensual or fast and polka-like.

It is a genuine Brazilian mixture of African hip movements, indigenous footwork and Portuguese pair dance. Several music styles are used: the slow European xote (Schottische), the intermediate African baião and the fast Northeastern arrastapé. It is fun for young and old, Brazilians and foreigners, so don’t miss the opportunity to enjoy it. There are no strict rules, just move, best coladinho (glued) to your partner…

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Hotels

Nannai

Porto de Galinhas This secluded Tahitian style resort on the Pernambuco coast, an oasis of swimming pools, palms and deluxe facilities, offers a range of accommodation: from beautiful balconied apartments to premium thatched bungalows, built within a private pool.

At 9 km from Porto de Galinhas the guests can enjoy free water sports, mini-golf, and Muro Alto, an immense emerald natural saltwater pool, 2300 m long and 200 m wide.

Pousada do Amparo Olinda

This fine colonial-style bed & breakfast comprises four 18th century houses that face one another across the bohemian Rua do Amparo, right in the heart of Olinda. A worthy member of the select Roteiros de Charme, the traditional Pousada do Amparo is enchanting. With their magnificent views over the town, the deluxe rooms, many of which feature canopy beds and jacuzzis, are highly recommended.

64 | northeast

Serra da Capivara ex Recife Its remote location ensuring protection from mainstream tourism, the Serra da Capivara National Park is an archaeologist's paradise and a geological masterpiece, with massive rock formations that can be seen from great distances as a steep escarpment rising from the flat arid lands of Piauí’s interior. Over millions of years, aggressive erosion has sliced deep fissures and canyons into the hard rock, forming

more than 360 natural shelters and caves.

Serra da Capivara is also home to an incredible array of plants and animals, among which are the jaguar, howler monkeys, rodents and a great variety of birds that thrive in the lush gallery forests filling the maze of deep canyons. The modest yet comfortable hotel, located in the small town of São Raimundo Nonato, is used as a base from which a variety of guided excursions enable visitors to explore the park’s diverse landscape, geological complexity, wildlife and countless archaeological sites, among which the Boqueirão da Pedra Furada is the oldest in the Americas.

An evening excursion leads to a massive rock face covered by hundreds of ancient, bizarre rock paintings lit up by a powerful spotlight. As well as a UNESCO-founded museum and research centre where specialists exhibit their discoveries of the region’s prehistoric human and animal populations, there is a ceramics workshop where distinctive pottery is made. For special groups interested in trekking and spending the night in the park, customized programs can be arranged.

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Backlands and Beaches ex Recife Ancient Backlands of the Northeast Northwest of Recife, the Cariri backlands in the state of Paraíba contain the archaeological sites of Ingá and Pai Mateus, with their unusual rock formations, ancient inscriptions, palaeontology museum and dramatic scenery. The return towards the coast includes visits to the town of Areia, whose well-preserved 19th century architecture includes some traditional sugar mills; and the fantastic Pedra da Boca, a prehistoric shelter on the frontier of the states of Paraíba and Rio Grande do Norte.

66 | northeast

The tour culminates in Pipa, an old fishing village rediscovered in the 70s by surfers, and one of the liveliest beaches in Rio Grande do Norte, with numerous restaurants and colourful nightlife.

Clear waters of the Northeast Maceió is a 245 km journey south of Recife along the coast road via Tamandaré, with its Atlantic Rainforest reserve, fine beaches and reefs. From Maceió the tour continues through the beautiful landscape of lakes, rivers, arid areas and coastline to Penedo, a fine historical town

on the banks of the River São Francisco.

Known as the sea of the backlands, this great river with clear green waters can be admired from a boat in Piaçabuçu, where it peacefully joins the sea amid dunes, islands and coconut groves. The return to Recife is highlighted by arriving in Japaratinga, where the next few days are spent in a beachfront hotel overlooking calm turquoise waters.

Toca da Coruja Pipa beach

Just 110 m from Pipa beach and forming one of the Roteiros de Charme boutique hotels, these 17 bungalows and 6 rooms, each with a spacious veranda and hammock, overlook a 25,000 sq m garden with fruit trees, flowers and lots of birds. A large swimming pool, bamboo furniture, local handicrafts and Brennand ceramics, combined with bright tropical colours, ensure a relaxing, romantic atmosphere.

Pernambuco Backlands ex Recife The state of Pernambuco comprises three regions: the Zona da Mata, or humid coastal lowlands; the Agreste, a rocky upland area and, even further inland, the semi-arid Sert達o, which spans the interior of the whole Northeast. Here the predominant vegetation is the Caatinga or scrub forest, with bushes that shed their leaves during the drought. Exploring the backlands means leaving the beaten

tourist path and getting to know the harsh but beautiful interior and its people, the sertanejos, descendants of indians, escaped slaves and vaqueiros, or cattle drivers. Attractions include the Catimbau Valley, located in the Agreste 265km from Recife, and Triunfo, a pleasant oasis in the middle of the Sert達o 450 km from Recife. Triunfo has waterfalls, coffee plantations and Pico do Papagaio, the highest point in the state of Pernambuco, with an altitude of 1,260 metres. The Canga巽o museum preserves the memory of the legendary Lampi達o, the controversial Robin Hood of Northeast Brazil. northeast | 67

Fernando de

Noronha ex Recife

68 | northeast

345 kilometres off the coast of Northeast Brazil and comprising 21 islands with a total of 26 square kilometres, the archipelago of Fernando de Noronha was created over 10 million years ago by a volcanic eruption. An unspoilt natural paradise, the “Emerald of The Atlantic” was declared a National Marine Park in 1989. Native tropical vegetation, secluded beaches and varied flora and fauna reward visitors to Fernando de Noronha, which is one of the

world’s best diving locations. Thousands of sea-turtles live here and the archipelago is home to the only school of Spinner Dolphins in the Atlantic Ocean. They can be admired from viewpoints and the beaches of Praia da Quixaba, Praia do Leão and Praia do Bode, whilst from the top of Morro do Pico there is a lovely view of the islands. Since environmental preservation has top priority, there are no high-rise hotels on the island and visitors are required to pay an environmental protection tax.

Pousada ZĂŠ Maria Fernando de Noronha

A postcard image of Morro do Pico reflected in the mirrored water, trickling off the infinity pool. This really is paradise. The 15 Brazilian hardwood bungalows and 6 luxurious apartments, powered by solar energy, offer modern comfort within an ecological sanctuary.

Opulent seafood banquets, prepared by ZĂŠ Maria the flamboyant owner, attract Brazilian celebrities and foreign visitors in search for Northeastern gastronomy and hospitality.

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Atlantis Voyager wreck-diving ex Recife

Selfdrive

Recife - Salvador ex Recife

70 | northeast

An unforgettable wreck-diving expedition on the Atlantis Enterprise, a fully equipped catamaran that plies the coast between Recife and Macei贸, and also between Natal and Fernando de Noronha.

Sailing during the day, the Voyager stops at spectacular dive sites ranging from coral reefs and island atolls to trenches and numerous wrecks. With two or three dives per day, the program includes all equipment, meals, beverages and accommodation aboard the 60-foot vessel specially designed for diving.

Expeditions are led by a team of professional guides and participants are strictly required to have diving certificates. Dive departures are planned twice a month from October to May, the exact route, duration and departure times varying according to local diving conditions and clearance from the authorities.

With a specially designed information kit to guide travellers to some of Brazil's most beautiful spots, the Recife to Salvador coastal self-drive offers an excellent and more independent way of discovering the magical northeast coastline. Complete with maps, tips, descriptions of towns and thorough route instructions, the carefully compiled kit points out attractions along the way: the beaches of Porto de Galinhas and Maragogi, snorkelling sites, a boat tour to the mouth of the S茫o Francisco River and a sea-turtle conservation project in Praia do Forte, plus the towns of Macei贸, Penedo and Aracaju.

The advantage of self-drive is that the tourist decides the pace and where or how long to stop, the program being customized to the number of days available, with hotels booked accordingly. Comprising many kilometres of untouched beaches, coconut palms, rivers, lagoons and colourful reefs, this self-drive is essential for anyone intending to make the most of their stay in Northeast Brazil.

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Fortaleza and surroundings

Fortaleza the capital of Ceará state, sits at the midpoint of the long dune-lined coast where the semi-arid landscape meets the Atlantic Ocean. As its name ‘Fortress’ suggests this city has often been the scene of historical battles between the Portuguese and the Dutch dating back to the 17th century, and later during Brazil’s independence movement. In the 19th century plantations and ranches brought prosperity to the port city, which is now celebrated as a major hub of Northeast Brazil.

The city itself vibrates with lively commerce especially where clothes, hammocks and handicrafts are concerned, because of the regional textile industry.

72 | northeast

This is a feature of the typical Ceará cultre which can be seen in the historical building housing the Folk Art and Culture Museum. Nearby is the magnificently restored Teatro José de Alencar, an elegant Edwardian ironwork building named after Ceará’s most famous literary son. As for nightlife, Fortaleza is one of the liveliest cities in Brazil, with people lining the streets and beaches before later heading to one of the many venues for traditional forró dancing.

The unique beauty of Ceará can be best appreciated along the hundreds of kilometres of coastline, where dunes, Atlantic rollers and deserted beaches can be found in abundance. From the ultra-modern sophistication of the Beach Park aquatic funfair to the relaxed alternative lifestyle of Canoa Quebrada and the unspoilt splendour of Jericoacoara, Ceará has beaches to suit all tastes.

Exploring them is greatly facilitated by renting a car, or for the more intrepid, a beach buggy can extend the adventure into the dunes. Transfers can also be made by special 4x4 jeep along the beautiful coastline.

Although it is beaches for which Ceará is justly famous, the arid interior contains several places of particular interest. One is the green uplands of Ubajara, blessed by a fertile microclimate, whilst the other is a religious oasis: The extraordinary town of Juazeiro do Norte, to which pilgrims flock in their thousands to pay homage to the memory of Padre Cícero, one of the great mystic figures of Brazil.

Vila Kalango Jericoacoara

A postcard image of Morro do Pico reflected in the mirrored water, trickling off the infinity pool. This really is paradise. The 15 Brazilian hardwood bungalows and 6 luxurious apartments, powered by solar energy, offer modern comfort within an ecological sanctuary.

Opulent seafood banquets, prepared by ZĂŠ Maria the flamboyant owner, attract Brazilian celebrities and foreign visitors in search for Northeastern gastronomy and hospitality.

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4x4 Adventure Packages ex Fortaleza Adventurous travellers who are unafraid of discomfort and seek a different way of discovering the beautiful coastline between Natal and São Luis will enjoy one of these off-road adventures in a Land Rover equipped with air-conditioning, radio and GPS. The four-day Natal to Fortaleza package covers more than 60 beaches on a beautiful route full of fascinating places, such as St. Roque Cape, South America’s nearest point to Africa; Praia do Marco, arguably the Portuguese colonisers’ first landing place in 1501; and Grossos and Areia Branca, two of the largest salt mines in the world. In Ceará attractions include Icapuí and its exuberant red rock formations sculpted by the forces of wind and sea; the village of Aracati and its colonial buildings; and the formidable dunes of Canoa Quebrada.

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A four-day eco-cultural expedition starting and ending in Fortaleza includes three stunning landscapes in a single itinerary: beach, backlands and mountains. Following the beautiful coastline of Ceará State, the first destination is Canoa Quebrada beach, with its beautiful dunes and cliffs of coloured sand.

The expedition then continues in the direction of Quixadá, located in the harsh backlands where the caatinga or scrub forest dominates the landscape. Also known as the land of the monoliths, the town is now a National Heritage Site.

Following the beautiful sunset in Serra do Urucum, the third day takes visitors to Guramiranga (“red bird” in indigenous Tupi), an oasis of Atlantic Rainforest, with beautiful trails and ideal birdwatching conditions.

The Fortaleza to São Luís off-road coastal adventure reveals the natural beauty of three distinct locations: Jericoacoara, one of the world’s 10 most beautiful beaches, according to The Washington Post, NY Times, BBC and People & Arts; the Parnaiba River Delta, one of only three open-sea deltas in the world, with a vast ecosystem of islands rich in biodiversity; and the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park.

Also known as the “Brazilian Sahara”, the Lençois Maranhenses are a vast area of great sand dunes with hundreds of crystal-clear lagoons.

Lençois

Maranhenses

ex São Luís

One of the few unspoilt natural paradises left to mankind, there is nothing in the world quite like the Lençóis Maranhenses, a desert of white sand dunes with very little vegetation, crystal-clear freshwater lagoons and largely unstudied wildlife.

Located in the state of Maranhão, the largest national park in Northeast Brazil covers 155 thousand hectares – an area

the size of São Paulo – yet is inhabited by only 100 families. Although Lençóis Maranhenses is considered to be one of the seven wonders of nature, its discovery requires a sense of adventure: 380 kilometres from São Luís, the gateway to the park is the town of Barreirinhas, from where the region can be explored by jeep or boat down the Preguiças river that skirts the desert until it meets the sea.

Porto Preguiças Lençois Maranhenses

On the banks of the Preguiças River just 2 km from the village of Barreirinhos, the only luxury resort serving the Lençóis Maranhenses was carefully built to harmonise with the surrounding 150,000 sq m of native forest.

The organic waste is used as a natural fertilizer for the vegetable garden and orchard with more than 1,000 tropical fruit trees of all kinds.

Spacious, well-decorated rooms give access to a 700 sq m swimming pool with a unique sand bottom and to a private river beach.

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Southeast Since the 19th century, Southeast Brazil has been the economic hub of the country, centred first on Rio de Janeiro and subsequently on the industrial and commercial megalopolis of São Paulo, one of the world's most populous cities.

The inland state of Minas Gerais, a former gold mining province and now a major industrial and dairy farming region; and the coastal state of Espírito Santo complete the region.

The cradle of the Brazilian Empire, Independence, and Republic, Rio de Janeiro's immense historical wealth in fine buildings, palaces, theatres and museums complements her legendary natural splendour. In Rio state, the feeling of

colonial Brazil can still be experienced in the town of Paraty, an 18th century gold and diamond port whose subsequent isolation has preserved architectural beauty worthy of World Heritage Monument status.

Minas Gerais, the fifth largest state in Brazil, hosts a collection of early eighteenth-century towns, the Cidades Históricas that include Ouro Preto, Mariana, Congonhas, São João del Rei and Tiradentes. Elegant colonial churches, steep cobbled streets, ornate mansions and even the historical atmosphere have all been preserved to make the cities one of the most impressive colonial legacies of the Americas.

Rio Janeiro de

and surroundings

With a dreamlike beauty that exceeds even the greatest of expectations, Rio is a city that has to be seen to be believed.

Take the train up the Corcovado to see the breathtaking view beneath Christ’s outstretched arms or the cable car to the top of the famous Sugar Loaf to see the “Wondrous City’s” spectacular landforms that embrace sandy beaches, glittering bays, fine residential districts and towering forest-covered mountains. The landscape is so dramatic that even the largest areas of modern high-rise are still dwarfed by the overwhelming grandeur of numerous peaks and the largest urban tropical forest in the world, itself a monument to environmental preservation.

From the city centre, where the history of imperial Brazil began, through the classic elegance of Copacabana and contemporary sophistication of Ipanema and Leblon to the ultra-modern development

78 | southeast

of Barra da Tijuca, Rio de Janeiro has many faces that include Rocinha, the world's largest shanty settlement and Santa Teresa, where streetcars still climb the winding cobbled streets through this mountainside artists’ district.

The natives of Rio, or cariocas, are famous for proudly mirroring the city's qualities in their daily pursuit of health, beauty and elegance: the seafront, lakeside and Tijuca forest park are always favourite destinations for exercising or simply enjoying the natural delights that their extraordinary city has to offer.

The cradle of the Brazilian empire, independence, and Republic, Rio de Janeiro’s immense historical wealth in fine buildings, palaces, theatres and museums complements her natural splendour. The arts, folklore and popular music reflect Rio’s cultural abundance in the form of leading galleries, the internationally famous carnival and samba schools and

Bossa Nova, immortalised by the most famous cariocas, Tom Jobim and Vinícius de Moraes.

Climbing the Serra do Mar mountain range reveals an interior also rich in history and nature. The summer residences of the former Brazilian emperor and his family gave birth to the charming towns of Petrópolis and Teresópolis, whilst the Paraíba Valley saw the country’s first coffee plantations. Boasting some of the highest peaks in Brazil, Itatiaia is Brazil's oldest National Park.

Returning to the coast once again, the atmosphere of colonial Brazil can still be felt in the town of Paraty, an 18th century gold and diamond port whose subsequent isolation has preserved architectural beauty worthy of World Heritage Monument status. The town also hosts the yearly World Literature Fair. The highway that winds west along the “Green Coast” from

Paraty through Angra dos Reis, where boats set sail for the island paradise of Ilha Grande, affords stunning views of beaches, islands and Atlantic Rainforest.

Whilst the drive eastwards from Rio leads to the lively seaside resorts of Cabo Frio and Búzios.

[Comunidades] The land of contrasts, as Brazil is also known, is nowhere better experienced as in housing. Modern, wealthy neighbourhoods stand side-by-side with shanty towns, usually built against steep slopes, in mangroves or on river banks. A rural exodus, mainly caused by mechanization and droughts, brought millions of people to the cities in search of a better life.

With a strong Brazilian community spirit these so-called favelas improve in time and turn into lively comunidades with an own cultural identity. Some of the (former) favelas now proudly receive tourists, like Rocinha in Rio, home for more than 100,000 “import Cariocas”. A unique opportunity to experience the other face of Brazil.

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Hotels Rio de Janeiro

Sofitel

Copacabana Enjoy the best of Rio with panoramic views of Copacabana Beach whilst being only a few steps from the chic Ipanema neighbourhood. This sophisticated hotel allows the guest to be pampered in style with 2 pools, a hammam and a massage centre, or by dining in the exquisite Le PrĂŠ Catelan (voted one of the top 10 hotel restaurants in the world). All of the 388 rooms and suites have private balconies to enjoy the sea air..

80 | southeast

Copacabana Palace Located right on the seafront, the Copacabana Palace is Rio de Janeiro’s most famous hotel, having welcomed the rich and famous since 1923. A glamorous icon of the city, this Orient Express hotel, with its white façade resembling a timeless villa, has always been synonymous with elegance, luxury and style. The spa is equipped with the latest fitness equipment and comfortable saunas.

Fasano Ipanema

Located on Ipanema Beach, the Fasano has an elegant décor with signed pieces from the fifties and sixties. Highlights include the lobby lounge and a restaurant devoted to traditional Italian seafood, a meeting point for both travellers and locals. One of the world’s leading small hotels, Fasano offers 82 rooms, 7 suites and 3 deluxe suites.

Santa Teresa Hotel Situated in the heart of the picturesque Santa Teresa neighbourhood also known as the “Montmartre of Rio”, this former colonial coffee estate has been transformed into Rio’s latest 5-star boutique hotel. Within the new concept of Tropical Design inspired by tribal arts, regional handicrafts and colonial architecture, contemporary Brazilian artists have succeeded in creating an atmosphere that recalls the golden age of coffee and sugar. A luxury spa and an exquisite “cuisine du monde” restaurant complete this unique venue.

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Pestana

Angra dos Reis Nestled between the hills and coastline of Angra dos Reis, guests can enjoy total peace and tranquility in one of the 27 bungalows, the private beach or panoramic swimming pool of this exclusive resort. Offering water sports in the bay, pampering in the spa and a range of business facilities, this is the perfect retreat for business, pleasure or both. Pestana Angra is located 160 km from Rio de Janeiro.

Insólito Búzios

Dazzling views over Ferradura (horseshoe) beach, enjoying the sunset from the jacuzzi on your private balcony, being pampered in the wellness centre and tasting seafood from its French-Brazilian haute cuisine restaurant, Insólito offers it all. Its 12 stylish rooms remind one of photographs in glossy design magazines, whilst art is everywhere: in the furniture, carpets, lighting and garden design – one more reason to call Búzios the Brazilian Saint-Tropez.

Naturália Ilha Grande

Surrounded by dense vegetation at the far end of the beach, 10 minutes on foot from the bars and restaurants of Vila Abraão, this rustic hillside inn is the place for those who prefer the sounds of nature. With all rooms overlooking Abraão Bay, the hammock on the private balcony is an invitation to relax.

Good suggestions for daytime activities are given by the helpful multilingual staff.

82 | southeast

Serra dos

Órgãos

ex Rio de Janeiro With an area of around 30,000ha, the Serra dos Orgãos National Park, so called because of its dramatic rock formations resembling rows of organ pipes, is most easily accessible from the town of Teresópolis. The vegetation is clearly stratified: in the lower parts of the park, the Atlantic Rainforest dominates the landscape, giving way to plains and scrub vegetation as the altitude increases. The

Park’s most famous peaks are the Dedo de Deus (Finger of God) at 1,692m, the Agulha do Diabo (Devil’s Needle) at 2,050m and the Pedra do Sino (Bell Rock), the highest at 2,263m. Various trails provide the active visitor with options ranging from easy walks to physically demanding hikes, such as from Teresópolis to Petrópolis. Named after emperors Dom Pedro I, who in 1830 purchased a ranch in the area, and Dom Pedro II, who established his summer residence there in 1843, Petrópolis has attractions that include the Imperial Palace, the cathedral of São Pedro de Alcântara and the Crystal Palace.

Serra de

Itatiaia

ex Rio de Janeiro 175 km from Rio de Janeiro and 250 km from São Paulo, the Itatiaia National Park is located in the southwestern part of Rio de Janeiro State, between the borders with São Paulo and Minas Gerais in the Mantiqueira Mountain Range. Founded in 1937 and covering an area of 137 square kilometres, Brazil’s oldest national park contains beautiful springs, creeks, waterfalls, primary forest and at least 1,200 species of animal life including

birds, mammals and reptiles. In addition to birdwatching and trekking along numerous trails, the region is excellent for climbing, with peaks such as Agulhas Negras, at 2,787m the highest in Rio de Janeiro state, and Pico da Prateleira (2,540m). On a clear day, it is said that the cities of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo can be seen at the same time.

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Coffee and

Gold

ex Rio de Janeiro Around 1830, the future baron of Mambucaba, accompanied by his slaves, climbed the Serra do Mar mountain range to establish himself in the lush Paraíba Valley, at the time inhabited by Araris and Puris indians, to cultivate coffee. By the end of the century, the descendants of the baron were enjoying the heyday of the coffee cycle. Many things have happened since then, including the gradual migration of coffee plantations to São Paulo and the transition to other crops and cattle breeding, but Fazenda Ponte Alta still tells visitors the story of the “coffee cycle” and a lot more.

In the 18th century, the port of Paraty, a village founded in 1667 around the church of Nossa Senhora dos Remédios,

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was an important outlet for the gold and precious stones brought on horseback from Minas Gerais state to be shipped to Portugal. Constant pirate assaults, however, led to the abandonment of the gold route, resulting in the great economic isolation that has ensured the town’s preservation. Today the beautiful colonial city of Paraty, considered a National and World Historical Monument, has countless natural and architectural charms and many pleasant hotels.

Example description 3 days/2 nights Fazenta Ponte Alta Day 1 | Private transfer out to the lush Paraíba Valley, taking around 3 hours.

This will take the visitor to Sao João da Prosperidade, which was built at the beginning of the 19th century. Guided tour and refreshments. Continuation to Fazenda Ponte Alta for the overnight stay.

Day 2 | Full day at leisure at the fazenda – possibility of horse riding, trekking or taking part in the daily activities of Fazenda Ponte Alta.

Day 3 | Excursion to Fazenda da Taquara, a working coffee farm. Subsequent return to Rio de Janeiro.

Example description 3 days/2 nights Paraty Day 1 | Pick-up at the hotel and by regular transfer along the beautiful Green Coast to the colonial city of Paraty, which takes about 4 hours. Accommodation at Pousada Villa del Sol or similar.

Afternoon accompanied walking tour through Parati, which orients the visitor and shows the city’s many attractions.

Day 2 | Boat tour across Paraty Bay with its still-wild beaches and islands. The clear, calm waters, full of colourful fish invite the visitor for a refreshing dive.

Afternoon at leisure.

Day 3 | Morning off for an optional excursion (bike ride, hike on the gold trail, etc.) After lunch, transfer back to Rio de Janeiro by regular transfer.

Um cafezinho? Be prepared that you will hear this invitation anywhere. It is more than a tiny little cup of black coffee. It is a welcome, a wish that you stay and chat. Saying no is not done; it would be an offense against a national institution.

Brazil is by far the world’s most important coffee grower: 34% of all beans are produced here. And even if Italian espresso is becoming more popular, a cafezinho is being offered at any place at any time. Like after a meal in a restaurant, usually courtesy of the house. Enjoy it, you are muito bem vindo (more than welcome).

[Cafezinho]

Casa Turquesa Paraty

Considered the finest hotel in Paraty, the small white and cyan-coloured Casa Turquesa is a haven of cleanliness and care. Overlooking the old harbour, this completely restored colonial building with its 9 rooms and lovely patio offers maximum comfort and tasteful design. In 2009, only one year after opening, the leading Brazilian travel guide Quatro Rodas granted this venue the Pousada of the Year Award.

Pardieiro Paraty

With its 27 rooms accommodated in small colonial houses grouped around gardens and a pool, this pousada resembles more a cosy neighbourhood than a hotel. Even though it’s located on the cobbled streets of the old town centre and not in the surrounding Atlantic rainforest, tiny tamarin monkeys show up at any time to look for fruit offered by the guests.

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Tocorimé

cruise

ex Rio de Janeiro

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Brazil’s only classicly-designed tall ship, built completely of tropical wood and modeled on an 1850s European fishing schooner, sails around the exotic landscapes and secluded beaches of Brazil’s coastlines. The homeport of The Tocorimé is appropriately the historical town and UNESCO World Heritage Site of Paraty, where her voyage sailing the emerald waters of the Green Coast usually begins. The lengths of the adventure can vary, depending on the ship’s agenda and client’s wishes, but a typical voyage sails from the dramatic mainland landscape out to Paraty's pristine islands, of rocky outcrops and hidden sandy coves, before moving on to the magnificent Ilha Grande, an island steeped in superstition.

Swim in the clear ocean waters, hike through tropical forest in search of waterfalls, climb to (literally!) breathtaking viewpoints, snorkel with tropical fish and maybe even sea turtles, or simply swing in a hammock and sip an ice cold

caipirinha. All guests are invited to become part of the crew and be involved in the day-to-day running of the ship, to learn the age-old skills of tall ship sailing from expert sailors. Raise the sails, climb the mast, plot and learn about navigation or dive down for routine hull inspection!

The ship holds up to 16 passengers, sleeping in traditional tall ship bunks (doubles and singles) with plenty of space above and below deck for relaxation and socialising. Meals vary from on-board dining, to pack lunches, lavish dinners and beach BBQs. All passages are sold on an all-inclusive basis, either individually, or as a charter to groups where specialist itineraries can be designed including an option of starting in the vibrant city of Rio de Janeiro.

Selfdrive

Rio - Belo Horizonte ex Rio de Janeiro More than 300 years ago groups of slave-hunters and gold prospectors, known as bandeirantes, ventured into the mountain wilderness of what is now the state of Minas Gerais. They found gold and diamonds, brought slaves to work for them, founded towns, organised mule caravans to the coast and shipped tons of minerals and precious stones to Portugal.

With the influence of religious orders, a part of their wealth went towards the building of opulent churches. In the beginning neoclassical and baroque Portuguese examples were simply copied, but after some time extremely talented local artists like sculptor Aleijadinho and painter Athayde, created their own style

particular to this isolated region, now known as ‘barroco mineiro’ (even if ‘rococo’ would be more appropriate).

This journey by rented car follows, for five days, the old Gold Route or Estrada Real (Royal Road), from Rio de Janeiro all the way to the monumental town of Ouro Preto, an unparalleled compilation of colonial Portuguese architecture and UNESCO World Heritage. En route visits are made to Petrópolis, the 19th century summer residence of the imperial court, to cobbled-stoned Tiradentes, São João del Rei and Congonhas, where Aleijadinho’s 12 prophets, another World Heritage site, surprise every visitor with their incredible craftsmanship. Our choice of romantic pousadas in colonial buildings and the opportunity to travel by vintage train appreciating magnificent countryside make this itinerary a true voyage through time.

Recommendations of outstanding regional gastronomy enhance this unique experience. To make this trip as easy as possible, a detailed self-drive information kit guides you along the 700 kms of good roads. The pick-up and drop-off points have deliberately been planned for Rio’s and Belo Horizonte’s international airports, to avoid driving through busy urban centres. A reversed self-drive information kit is available for those who prefer to start in Belo Horizonte and end in Rio.

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Minas Gerais &

Brazilian Baroque

ex Belo Horizonte With Brazil’s first modern planned city, Belo Horizonte, as capital, the state of Minas Gerais covers 580,000 square kilometres and is the fifth largest state in Brazil, with 15 million inhabitants. Minas is mountainous, rugged and isolated, its name “General Mines” given by the Bandeirantes, the explorers of the Brazilian back-country in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, when they discovered gold in this isolated area. During the 18th century, Minas became the new economic centre of the colony and power shifted from the Northeast (Salvador) to the Southeast (Rio de Janeiro).

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Throughout their tumultuous history the mineiros have been able to preserve some of the wealth of the old days in the great baroque art and architectural treasures of their colonial cities. Brazil's exuberant baroque art and architecture is one of the wonders of Latin America. The 18th century baroque movement in Brazil had three main centres, appearing first in Salvador, moving to Rio de Janeiro and then reaching its height in Minas Gerais.

Recognizing the exuberant qualities of baroque art in the Indian and mixedblood converts who made up the bulk of the Brazilian faithful, the Jesuits

supported the colonial boom of baroque and were open to new ideas and local trends, encouraging what many in Europe regarded as “the secular opulence” of baroque.

Linked inextricably with Minas Baroque are the works of the artisans Antônio Francisco Lisboa (1730-1814), nicknamed “O Aleijadinho” (the little cripple, because of a crippling disease), Manuel da Costa Ataíde, Francisco Xavier de Brito and José de Araújo. The towns with the finest examples of their work are Congonhas, with Aleijadinho’s masterpieces of the twelve prophets in soapstone and the representation of the Via Crucis in woodwork; São João del Rei, with the churches of St. Francis of Assisi, Nossa Senhora do Carmo and Rosário; Tiradentes, with the Santo Antônio church and house of Father Toledo (where one of Brazil’s first independence movements began); Mariana, with its Cathedral and Sacred Art Museum; and Ouro Preto, with the churches of St. Francis of Assis and Pilar.

Solar da Ponte Tiradentes

A local landmark, this refined country manor is perfectly in-keeping within the 18th century cobble stoned village of Tiradentes. Be transported back in time with pretty flower gardens, peaceful verandas, afternoon teas served overlooking the tree tops. The 18 rooms are beautifully decorated with locally made furniture and traditional artwork.

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São Paulo The city of São Paulo and its state form the heart of the Brazilian economy. With a significant portion of the country’s population – 16 million people – living in the metropolitan region alone, São Paulo is one of the world’s largest cities and therein lies its principal attraction, as the cosmopolitan centre of South America.

Located on a high, undulating plateau 70km inland from the port of Santos, São Paulo started as a Jesuit mission station in 1554, subsequently becoming a trading post and base for the Bandeirantes, the 17th century pioneers that set off to explore Brazil's vast interior in search of wealth. However, three centuries passed

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before São Paulo's overwhelming prominence began to take shape. The process started with the mid-19th century expansion of coffee cultivation westwards from Rio de Janeiro and the settling of plantation owners in the 1870s. By the end of the century, they had begun to invest in industry, especially textile factories.

The growing need for labour absorbed mass immigration from Europe and Japan, and São Paulo’s population boom was well under way. By the 1950s, the city's leading role in the urbanisation of Brazil had been clearly established. This phenomenal rate of growth in the 20th century unleashed a cycle of demolition and reconstruction that spared very few historical buildings.

Despite this high price paid for the birth of Brazil's industrial and commercial heartland, “Sampa” became the nation's undisputed centre for culture, the arts, music and gastronomy.

In spite of the city’s huge size, São Paulo’s main attractions are concentrated in a compact central area well served by the metro and excellent bus service. The Praça da Sé is the site of the original settlement, the Pátio do Colégio, the 1954 neo-Gothic Metropolitan Cathedral and the City Museum. Nearby are the three churches of Carmo (1632), with a baroque high altar, São Francisco (late 17th century) and the recently restored Igreja de Santo Antônio. Lebanese and Syrian immigrants settled in the surrounding district, now shared equally and peacefully by Christians and Muslims.

The municipal market lies to the North, whilst westwards across the Viaduto do Chá is the Municipal Theatre, one of São Paulo’s most distinguished public buildings, followed by the Praça da República, the city’s main square. Here offices and shops now occupy the streets where coffee planters’ mansions once stood and, towering above, are São Paulo’s

first skyscraper, the Edifício Martinelli, modelled on the Empire State Building, and her tallest, the Edifício Itália, with 42 storeys.

To the South are Bela Vista (Bixiga), the “Little Italy” of São Paulo and Liberdade, home to the Japanese community.

Southeast is Avenida Paulista, the central business district, lined with high-rise office blocks and separating the traditional centre from the luxurious residential areas of Jardins. Half way along the avenue, overlooking the old centre, is the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP), considered to be the most important museum of western art in Latin America.

Opposite MASP, the small but beautiful tropical oasis of Parque Siqueira Campos offers refreshing relief from the bustle of São Paulo's main avenue.

enjoy sports and leisure pursuits and several of the city’s museums, including the Contemporary Art Museum and the Folklore Museum. True to its cosmopolitan nature, one of the great pleasures of São Paulo is eating out, and the city boasts a vast range of restaurants that represent virtually every nation. The nightlife is the richest in Brazil, offering every kind of entertainment from the best in theatre and classical music to the liveliest and most contemporary night clubs.

[Futebol]

Goooooooool... Whether assisting a match in a bar or in the stadium, the crowd goes crazy!

Don’t leave the country without having experienced the nation’s passion for the king of sports. Especially now Brazil has started preparations to hold the World Cup in 2014.

Football is the heart and the soul of all Brazilians. Watch only how many

The most famous park in São Paulo is Parque Ibirapuera, where the Paulistanos

men, women and children wear the shirts of their favorite teams, even if going to work or church… Visit the Museu do Futebol in São Paulo, or a match at Morumbi, Mineirão or Maracanã Stadium, to see the crowds dancing and singing the entire 2-3 hours without stopping. Wear Brazil’s trademark yellow shirt and be one of them.

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Hotels

Solar Singuitta Ilhabela

Sitting on a rock overlooking the South Atlantic, Pousada Solar Singuitta combines wellbeing and comfort amidst the preserved flora and fauna of Ilhabela, a 384 sq km island off the coast of São Paulo State. Decorated with art and handicrafts and renowned for its spa, this is one of the 51 exclusive hotels accepted as member of the Roteiros de Charme Association.

Fasano São Paulo

This new deluxe hotel combining contemporary design with an atmosphere recalling the thirties fits perfectly the grandeur of South-America’s largest metropolis. Although its 60 rooms are perhaps the most comfortable Brazil has to offer, the hotel’s real fame derives from the 3-star Fasano restaurant on the ground floor, a must for every lover of refined traditional Italian cuisine.

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Selfdrive São Paulo - Rio ex São Paulo

If there was an election for the most beautiful and spectacular coasts on our planet, the Costa Verde (Green Coast) between Santos and Rio de Janeiro would surely figure among the Top 10. Imagine a 600 km coastal road through a dramatic mountain-meets-ocean scenery, sparsely populated, covered with Atlantic rainforest, featuring innumerous inlets, bays, isles and islets, an abundance of tropical vegetation and no less than 278 different sandy beaches (352 if including the ones on the 2 main islands Ilhabela and Ilha Grande). Amongst all of this natural beauty, suddenly appears the town of Paraty, one of the best preserved colonial jewels of Brazil. Before it was forgotten in time, this was the hidden port from which the Portuguese shipped their gold and

precious gems to their homeland. Now Paraty is known for its schooner trips across the bay, gastronomy and romantic evenings. By far the best way to enjoy the Green Coast is to do it by car.

A detailed and practical self drive information kit guides you all the way from São Paulo International Airport to your last hotel at Rio’s Copacabana Beach.

To make this trip even more relaxing we divided it into 5 stages, with an average of 140 km. A fine choice of accommodation completes this unique coastal experience.

The journey is also possible, with a full self-drive kit, from Rio to São Paulo.

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South The states of Paraná, Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul make up the most European region of Brazil, having been colonised largely by Germans, Italians and immigrants from Eastern Europe. Nowhere is this more evident than in Curitiba, the capital of Paraná, a city renowned for its organisation and environmental friendliness. The region’s natural landscape contrasts peaceful unspoilt coastline with the dramatic scenery of mountain ranges and canyons, the subtropical vegetation including the characteristic Araucaria or Paraná pines.

One of the world’s most impressive natural wonders is located at the meeting point of Brazil, Argentina and

Paraguay: the Iguaçu Falls. Iguaçu means Great River in the indigenous Guarani language and there could hardly be a more fitting name. After rising in the Brazilian highlands near Curitiba, the Iguaçu river runs westward on a 1,100 km journey, receiving some 30 tributaries on its course to the plateau where, just before merging with the great Paraná river, it falls thunderously over an 80m-high cliff in virgin forest. Set in a National Park of the same name, the Iguaçu Falls are the most spectacular in South America. A total of 275 falls cascade over a precipice that is 3km wide, sending up an endless wall of spray laced with rainbows.

Foz do

Iguaçu Meaning “great river” in the indigenous Guarani language, the Iguaçu rises in the Brazilian highlands near Curitiba and runs westward on a 1,100km journey, receiving some 30 tributaries on its course to the plateau where, just before merging with the great Paraná river, it plunges thunderously over an 80m-high cliff in virgin forest. The most spectacular falls in South America, the 3km wide precipice has 275 cascades that send up an endless wall of spray laced with rainbows. At the heart of this unforgettable scene is the Devil's Throat, where 14 separate falls join forces.

The visitor can enjoy the spectacle from the various walkways that offer close-up views, by boat or – for the most exhilarating experience of all – by helicopter.

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Iguaçu is also the meeting point of three countries: Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. Straddling the Iguaçu River, the twin National Parks of Foz do Iguaçu were set up to preserve the precious environment. In addition to providing different perspectives on the falls, both the Brazilian and Argentine sides thus offer the opportunity to safely visit a real rainforest, home to over two thousand plant varieties, four hundred bird species, dozens of types of mammals and innumerable insects and reptiles. For the longer stay, the Yacutinga Jungle Lodge is an excellent base.

Near Iguaçu the Brazilians have created their own miracle: the Itaipú hydroelectric plant on the Paraná River is the world’s largest single power station. 18 turbines provide Brazil with over 12,000MW, one third of its electricity. In addition to becoming a tourist attraction

in its own right, the dam brought about the building of the town of Foz do Iguaçu, which has flourished with tourism and trade with the neighbouring countries.

As well as these natural and technological wonders, there is a cultural spectacle in the form of the Gaúcho, or South American cowboy, symbolized by typical dress and chimarrão, a herb tea drunk from a special pot. The history of this region also provides an interesting attraction in the form of the ruins of the Jesuit missions that featured in the film The Mission, a vivid account of this dramatic chapter in the conquest of the New World. The ruins of the Santo Inacio mission are just a short trip into Argentina.

Hotel das Cataratas Foz do Iguaรงu

Following a recent 30 million dollar refurbishment in tune with its colonially-inspired architecture, this queen of Brazilian hotels reopened in 2009 as a member of the elite Orient Express chain.

With a privileged location inside the 185,000 hectare Iguaรงu National Park, this is the only hotel where you can see and hear the mighty Iguaรงu Falls 24 hours a day. Just imagine having this glorious natural wonder all to yourself at dawn or on moonlit nights.

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Curitiba

and surroundings

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Founded in 1693 as a goldmining camp, Curitiba remained a quiet settlement on the north-south cattle trading route until, with the expansion of coffee plantations in northern Paraná, it became state capital in 1853. A massive influx of immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries accelerated the growth of the city, now with a population of 1½ million, largely descended from northern Europeans – Germans, Poles and Ukrainians. The curitibanos enjoy the highest standard of living in Brazil and the benefits of a city that is remarkably free of the more common urban problems, such as pollution and traffic congestion. With an award-winning city council that has prioritised pedestrianisation and cheap, efficient public transport, Curitiba has become an international model for urban administration.

Curitiba also boasts carefully preserved architectural heritage, which is now integrated into the city’s contemporary cultural life. The beautiful 18th and 19th century buildings are among Curitiba’s main attractions and include the city’s oldest churches, the Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco das Chagas and Nossa Senhora do Rosário.

There are several museums, including the ultra-modern Oscar Niemeyer Museum showcasing contemporary art, the Railway Museum and the Museu Paranaense, whose exhibits document the history of the state of Paraná from pre-colonial times to the present day, housed in a 1916 Art Nouveau building, previously the town hall.

With two trees for every person in Curitiba, and over 25 well maintained

parks across the city, to celebrate environmental awareness, a visit to at least one of these is essential. The Botanical Gardens include tropical plants housed within an enormous greenhouse, the Unilevre Environmental University fascinating for environmental education, or the João Paulo II Park, set up to commemorate the 1980 papal visit.

Curitiba is also the departure point for a spectacular train journey. A masterpiece of late 19th century engineering, the line takes in 41 bridges and 14 tunnels as it descends the Serra do Mar to Curitiba’s port of Paranaguá, via Morretes, both historical towns. On the route, which begins among Paraná’s distinctive Araucária pines and ends amidst subtropical lowland vegetation, the traveller can experience breathtaking views of the

ridges and valleys of the Marumbi State Park. From Paranaguá a visit can be made to the jewel of the Paraná coastline, the Ilha do Mel, a carefully protected ecological zone with rocky coves, mountainous terrain and excellent beaches.

[Restaurantes]

When staying at lodges or resorts don’t be surprised if you will be served two hot meals per day.

Eating well and varied at both lunch and dinner is a Brazilian tradition, so why not extend this experience to the rest of your stay and double the opportunities to taste the specialties of each region? Try a restaurant “por peso”, buffet style, where your plate is weighed and you pay for the grams on it, regardless if it is salad, lobster or sausage.

Or a churrascaria, where a fixed price covers all the food you can eat, mostly all kinds of grilled meat, offered at your table every 2 minutes. Eating in restaurants can be surprisingly cheap, bearing in mind that often one dish is intended to serve two people, so don’t feel ashamed to order only one meal.

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Superagui ex Curitiba Embracing Baia das Laranjeiras, Paraná’s largest ocean inlet, the Superagui National Park, along with its sister parks, Sebuí and Salto Morato are part of the 314,400 ha Guaraqueçaba environmental protection area, a UNESCO Natural Heritage Site encompassing one of Brazil’s largest expanses of Atlantic Rainforest.

Guaraqueçaba’s islands, deserted beaches and mangrove estuaries are home to river dolphins and exceptionally rich birdlife,

making this region an irresistible attraction to nature lovers. To reach this paradise, visitors board a train in Curitiba and embark on a journey towards the coast across the dramatic Serra do Mar mountain range. In the middle of the subtropical rainforest of the Sebuí Reservation, the accommodation is a large, comfortable wooden cabin for up to 12 people, from where this beautiful region can be explored on foot and by boat.

Itaimbezinho ex Porto Alegre

Skirting the eastern border of Rio Grande do Sul and Santa Catarina, the majestic Itaimbezinho is one of Brazil’s largest and most impressive canyons, its lush vegetation and exceptionally diverse fauna protected deep in the heart of the Aparados da Serra National Park.

This rugged transition between the high grassland plateau and coastal plain sits like a giant trophy on the state’s eastern boundary, the spectacular cliffs plunging into abysses of densely forested gorges and lowlands.

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Located in the Germanic-influenced Gaúcha Highlands are the towns of Canela and Gramado, famous for its chocolate and leather, and the Caracol Nature Reservation with 130m high waterfalls. Cambará do Sul is the base from where both the Itaimbezinho and the 900 metre deep Fortaleza canyons are explored by scenic drives and gentle walks along trails through the majestic landscape. On the Campos de Serra plateau, visitors are rewarded with a spectacular panoramic view over the Itaimbezinho canyon.

Rio do Rastro ex Florianópolis Situated 220 km from Santa Catarina’s state capital Florianópolis, the majestic Rio do Rastro mountain range is undoubtedly one of Brazil’s highest and most dramatic geological formations. Its steep ridges divided by deep valleys and canyons rise sharply from the exuberant lowland vegetation to a vast grassland plateau at an altitude of 1,500m, where temperatures can fall well below freezing point during the winter months.

The region’s pleasant climate, dramatic scenery and exceptionally rich biodiver-

sity were revealed with the opening of the SC-438 highway, a masterpiece of modern road construction and a tourist attraction in its own right. The winding road literally carves its way up the solid rock faces and onto the plateau, from where the Atlantic Ocean can be seen on a clear day.

A luxurious, spacious establishment located in the heart of this spectacular region, the Rio do Rastro Ecoresort offers visitors full-board accommodation and a range of daily excursions on foot or horseback, with expert guides. Attractions include the canyons of the National Park, river excursions by canoe, trout fishing and wildlife spotting, a visit to the Auracaria forest and a regional lunch in the home of a local family.

Ponta dos Ganchos Gov. Celso Ramos

This romantic hideaway is situated on its own private peninsular surrounded by white sand and emerald waters, at 40 km from Florianópolis. There are 25 charming bungalows with 4 different standards of luxury from veranda pools and sea views to fireplaces and even a wine cellar. The grounds include three tiny private island retreats, a thatch beachfront restaurant, heated swimming pool, tennis court, cinema, nature trails and a Christian Dior spa.

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popular

feasts

brazilian

festivals!

Those who have already visited Brazil can confirm that Brazilians adore parties.

There is even a Brazilian joke saying that the definition for party is: 3 Brazilians.

No wonder then, that a reason is always found to get together and celebrate whether on a local or national scale. The most important festivities nationwide are without doubt Réveillon (New Year’s Eve), Carnaval (Carnival) and the Festas Juninas ( June Feasts). The main religious celebrations are, apart from Christmas and the Holy Week, the Lavagem do Bonfim in Salvador and the Círio de Nazaré in Belém. The first, mid-January,

is particularly interesting as this procession has both Roman-Catholic and Afro-Brazilian elements. The second, a procession in honour of the statue of Nossa Senhora de Nazaré, takes place on the second Sunday of October with more than 2 million people on the streets of Belém. It is considered the biggest procession on the planet.

Other local events worth being mentioned are the Festa do Peão in Barretos (a huge rodeo, end of August), the São Paulo Gay Parade in May or June (with 2.5 million participants the biggest in the world), the

Oktoberfest in Blumenau (with 700.000 visitors second-only to Munich) and the various local Micaretas, a kind of carnival parade with bands playing on top of huge lorries. Among the many folkloric festivals probably the most authentic Brazilian is the Bumba-meu-boi, found in almost all 16 states of the North and Northeast, but most prominent in São Luís (Maranhão) and Parintins (Amazonas). The latter offers a 3-night extravaganza, which rivals Rio’s carnival in beauty and splendour.

Carnival ex Rio de Janeiro | Recife | Salvador Probably the largest party in the world takes place in Brazil in the 5 days preceding Lent, when Brazilians celebrate their carnaval with music and dance unique to each region.

Rio de Janeiro has undoubtedly the most famous one, culminating in the 12 top samba schools parading through the Sambadrome with flamboyant costumes and immense allegoric floats. All year round, and open to visitors, the neighbourhood-based samba schools rehearse to perfect their display of rhythm and beauty for just 1 hour 20 minutes of performance. Each of them mobilizes up

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to 5,000 participants in this energetic frenzy to compete for the coveted title and crowned queen.

Along the seafront of Salvador live axé bands play on carnival floats trailing a multitude of dancing revellers. The music never stops as bands of drummers march the city, as many as 300 at a time.

Further north the twin cities of Recife and Olinda celebrate their own distinctive rhythms and also here preparations start months before. The music includes maracatu, of African origin, caboclinhos, with performers wearing indigenousinspired costumes, and the unique

effervescent regional dance and brass band music called frevo.

Olinda has the most humorous and picturesque of all carnivals, characterized by giant dolls leading over 400 groups through the narrow streets of the old city, each with their own music, colours and routines.

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Reveillon

Festas Juninas

The Bull of

Parintins

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Favoured by the climate (at New Year’s Eve almost all Brazilian beaches show temperatures between 25° and 28°C), Réveillon in Brazil is the outstanding moment to celebrate the first hours of the year at the beach. All coastal cities organise free music shows and fireworks and the parties only end at the first rays of sunshine. The most famous party takes place at Rio de Janeiro’s Copacabana Beach, where crowds, well over 2 million

people, gather to see the spectacular 20 minutes fireworks show and cultivate their superstitions. Notice that almost everybody is dressed in white, makes wishes while jumping over 7 waves, and throws flowers in the sea as a gift to Iemanjá, the African Goddess of the Sea. Other traditions to summon peace, luck, love and prosperity include eating 12 grapes, pork, wearing a banknote in the shoes and keeping 3 pomegranate seeds

The Portuguese Festa de São João ( June 24th), brought to Brazil during colonial times, has become so popular that it reaches far beyond that one date that St. John the Baptist was born. Together with Santo António (Anthony of Padua, June 13th) and São Pedro (Saint Peter, June 29th) it is now celebrated during all the month of June. Although a nationwide festival it is most associated with Northeast Brazil. It provides the people with an opportunity to give thanks to Saint John for the harvest, especially of corn.

No wonder that typical delicacies served during this period are commonly made with corn, such as ‘canjica’ and ‘pamonha’.

The celebrations include bonfires and fireworks, decorated streets and an entertaining dance called ‘quadrilha’ to celebrate marital union. This dance, which originates in the ‘quadrille’ of the 18th century French Court, features men dressed up as farm boys and women wearing pigtails, painted gap teeth and checkered dresses. The Guinness Book of Records considers the Festas Juninas of

One of the greatest expressions of Brazilian folklore is the legend of the Bumba-meu-boi (Northeast) or Boi-bumbá (North). The story tells of a cowboy, who kills the owner’s favorite bull to satisfy the craving of his pregnant wife to eat its tongue. The owner, furious, threatens to kill the guy if he doesn’t bring the bull back to life. Desperate, the worker asks a priest and a doctor to help, but in the end it is an indigenous shaman who resuscitates the animal. All over Brazil folklore dramatizations of this legend can

be seen but the most interesting occur in Maranhão and Amazonas. In São Luís’ colonial centre (UNESCO World Heritage) hundreds of colourful Bumbameu-boi groups dance all night on a mix of African and Indigenous rhythms. Even more impressive is the Boi-bumbá festival in Parintins, an island in the Amazon river. Two rivalling ‘bulls’, Garantido (red) and Caprichoso (blue), each represented by hundreds of dancers and musicians, perform their version of the legend alternately during 3 nights in a