Skin Care Secrets: Clean, Screen, and Shade

BY DEBORAH LYNCH

The skin care industry is big business. Glossy magazine ads, television commercials, Instagram reels, TikTok hacks, and friends encourage us to try everything from over-thecounter pharmacy products, to boutique and spa serums and creams, to luxury labels, to powders and pastes created from our gardens and refrigerators to nourish our skin.

Add to that a burgeoning esthetic skin care niche market and celebrities who swear by their injections, needling, abrasions, and other procedures, and it becomes baffling for average people to determine how to best care for their skin.

With the July sun beating down on us, it is the perfect time to consider whether your skin care regimen is enough to keep your skin healthy and glowing, not just for the short term, but for life.

Dr. Charlene Lam, Vice Chair of Community Health and Associate Professor of Dermatology at Penn State Health Dermatology and Dr. Payvand Kamrani, a third-year dermatology resident at Penn State Health, emphasize not only sunscreen to protect skin all year round, but also doing everything possible to avoid exposure to the sun. They also provide other suggestions for ultimate skin care.

1. Throw shade to the sun

Stay out of direct sunlight between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. and when direct sunlight cannot be avoided, wear wide-brimmed hats to protect face and possibly chest and shoulders. Also consider clothing with built-in UPF to protect other parts of the body. Every other area of uncovered skin should be protected with at least a 30 SPF sunscreen– especially the neck, ears, and face. And don’t forget to protect lips with an SPF product.

2. Sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen!

Even on days spent inside, an SPF 30 or higher is recommended since sun can also come through windows and clouds. Lightweight formulas and powders are available. Expensive sunscreens are not necessary. Doctors say finding one you will use liberally–at least a shotglassful (or 1 ounce) applied every two hours–is key. Using a daily moisturizer that includes an SPF helps to make this a regular part of daily skin care.

“UV rays and smoking are major ways to damage the skin and cause premature aging. Sunscreen and sun avoidance can help mitigate these risks,” Kamrani said, adding that “other overthe-counter Vitamin C serums can provide additional antioxidants.”

Although the FDA is currently reviewing some sunscreen ingredients for their environmental impacts and absorption, it stresses that sunscreen is safe and urges people to continue to use sunscreen whenever exposed to sun. For those with sensitive skin or those who worry about chemical absorption in sunscreen, Kamrani suggests instead using a sunscreen with physical blockers that sit on the surface of the skin and deflect UV rays, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

The American Academy of Dermatology Association says sunscreen protects skin from the sun. Applying it will help to reduce the risk of developing skin cancer; prevent sunburn; decrease signs of early aging like wrinkles, age spots, and sagging skin; stop existing melasma from darkening and new patches from appearing; and reduce risk of dark spots appearing when acne, psoriasis, or other skin conditions clear.

3. Know your skin

Skin products should be based on skin type and skin goals, which can be identified by a dermatologist or licensed esthetician. Is your skin sensitive, normal, dry, oily, or combination? Some products might have salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, which are better for those with acne.

The wide array of companies and products available can be overwhelming. Kamrani said that most brands available in pharmacies (like Cetaphil, CeraVe, or La Roche-Posay) have completed rigorous clinical trials and are therefore safe to use.

4. Devote time to daily skin care

Cleanse morning and night: Lam recommends washing one’s face with a gentle fragrance-free skin cleanser. Shian Wing, director of The Spa at the Hotel Hershey, says doing this twice daily removes dirt, make-up, and excess lipids without damaging the skin barrier. Following cleansing with a skin tonic refreshes the skin.

Apply creams:

After cleansing, Wing also suggests applying an eye cream or serum around eye areas to reduce fine lines, puffiness, and wrinkles. Then, moisturize and hydrate skin with a face cream or serum containing key ingredients including natural oils, vitamins, and antioxidants to maintain and increase skin moisture, nourish, and balance the skin. Vitamin C serums in the morning work as antioxidants. At night, retinol cream can be used for an anti-aging effect. It requires routine use.

Exfoliate:

Dermatologists do not recommend regular exfoliation, which can cause irritation. Instead, they recommend retinol cream that can turn over skin cells faster and build up collagen, therefore rejuvenating the skin.

“The simpler a routine is, the better compliance, the better results you will get,” Lam says.

5. Check your skin regularly

Because one in five Americans develop skin cancer, The American Academy of Dermatology Association recommends regular skin checks for new or suspicious spots and moles that change, itch, or bleed. Skin cancer is highly treatable—the survival rate is 98 percent—if detected and treated early.

“For any dark spot, we talk about the ABCDEs of melanoma,” Lam said. This stands for: A: Asymmetry, an odd shape; B: Borders that are jagged; C: Color, dark black, gray, purple, or bleeding; D: Diameter, anything bigger than tip of pencil eraser, 6 mm; E: Evolving, if it’s changing at all. If any of these are noted, a physician should be contacted.

Lam also says to have someone check your back for spots, and to photograph concerning spots to help monitor all skin for signs of change.

6. Eat well

A good diet can help skin to heal from within, Wing says. Greens and a healthy diet help to nourish healthy skin, too. Additionally, hydrating inside and out benefits our skin. Water can help to eliminate toxins and promote hydration, Wing said.

While a healthy, balanced diet is important for many reasons, dermatologists typically don’t recommend specific diets when addressing skin care.

7. Hit the sheets

They don’t call it beauty sleep for nothing! Getting a good night’s sleep will help to rejuvenate and repair the skin while keeping it healthy, Wing said.

Alternatively, Kamrani notes that too little sleep can exacerbate dark circles around the eyelids.

8. Pamper with care

As long as a qualified professional is performing treatments, Wing recommends skin treatments, which she says can make skin feel softer and smoother. Wing says facials are not only a wonderful way to relax, but that they also can help with skin cell renewal, increased circulation, and lymphatic drainage, all of which help to reduce puffiness and promote optimal skin health. She said they help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, increase firmness, smooth and even tone and skin texture, reduce enlarged pores, brighten complexion, and minimize brown spots.

9. Weigh benefits of costly treatments

While cosmetic treatments might have benefits, they might also have risks, and none of these treatments are necessary, Lam says. Risks include scarring and infection. If someone decides to pursue treatments, Lam recommends using board-certified physicians who understand skin and facial shape and proportions and who can handle potential side effects.

Fillers:

Neuromodulators such as Botox and fillers can help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and restore a more youthful appearance.

Chemical peels and micro-needling: These can help with hyperpigmentation, skin texture changes, and fine lines, but again risks should be considered.

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