INDIAN CUISINE

SOUTHERN INDIA

(Karnataka, Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, Tamilnadu and Kerala)

Loganathan Ramasamy, is Head Chef at My Local Indian (mylocalindian.com) which produces restaurant-quality, authentic Southern Indian food which is freshly cooked and frozen, to seal in and preserve the aromas and flavours, and delivered direct to homes. He tells us more about the cuisine which he loves. “Explorers, traders and adventurers have been drawn to Kerala for more than a thousand years, from all corners of India and the world. This melting pot of culinary and social history has influenced recipes down the centuries, resulting in a mix of flavours, ingredients, textures and tastes that are unique to this tropical paradise at India’s southern tip. From spectacular Chinese fishing nets on the waterside, to the synagogues, churches, temples and mosques that sit side by side in bustling streets that lead to the docks and the spice markets — the ports of Kerala’s western shore, lapped by the waters of the Arabian Sea, live their history in vibrant colour. Traders, migrants and invaders were drawn here by the exotic spices that made many a fortune over the centuries and which colour the rich palette of Keralan cuisine. “Lovers of Indian food will be familiar with dishes mainly using chicken and lamb, however Keralan dishes often have a seafood base, with tumeric, cardamom, pepper and coconut gently infusing with the delicate flavour of the fish. Arabian explorers and traders brought with them their love of rich and meaty beef and mutton stews, and these too, flavoured with cumin, clove, ginger and black pepper are popular dishes. Vegetarians are also very well catered for in Keralan cuisine, with the freshest vegetables and tropical coconut, mango and pineapple featuring in many dishes, as well as warm and comforting dhal and chickpea-based recipes.”

Popular dishes

Achayan's Beef Ularthiyathu: Tender beef slow roasted in a mixture of spices, onions, curry leaves and coconut flakes.

Keralan Fish Curry: Sea bass chunks cooked with aromatic spices, coconut cream and tangy tamarind. Toddy Shop Kappa: Tapioca mash seasoned with a mixture of spices, ground coconut and curry leaves. Munnar Chicken: Chicken cooked in rich spices finished with coconut milk cutting through the spicy flavour.

EASTERN INDIA

(Bengal, Orissa, Bihar, and Assam)

The cuisine of this region is characterised by the seas and rivers. Coconut palms line the coasts, while the fertile plains are covered with mustard and tea plantations. Green vegetables, fruit and rice are all plentiful, thanks to the humid climate and epic rainfalls. Fish from the Bay of Bengal is eaten frequently in place of meat, with cooling yoghurt making an appearance at almost every meal. Mustard oil is often used for cooking (especially in Bengali cusine), giving dishes a distinctive pungent, but slightly sweet, flavour. Food from this area is characterised by subtle spicing, often involving mustard, cumin, anise and fenugreek seeds.

Popular dishes

Puchkas: A flaky shell full of sour tamarind water, chaat masala, potatoes, chilli and chutney, Halmuri: Puffed rice with a mixture of vegetables, nuts and spices. Machher jhol: A tomato-based fish curry. Chhena poda: Roasted cottage cheese with cashews and raisins. Payesh: Rice pudding sweetened with jaggery. Baah gajor gahori: Pork with bamboo shoots and sticky rice.

WESTERN INDIA

(Gujarat, Maharashtra, Goa, and Konkan)

The cuisine in the Western region is highly diverse. Due to its coastal location, coconut milk, fish and seafood are dominant in the dishes of Maharashtra. In contrast, however, the interior regions rely much more heavily on grains and cereals. Gujurat is especially well known for its vegetarian dishes, as well as chutneys. Goa acted as a major trade port and colony for Portugal, resulting in a distinctive and unique blend of Indian and Portuguese culinary elements. Goan cuisine uses pork and beef with greater frequency than other regional cuisines in India, fish is also a staple. Goan cuisine usually tends to be hot and spicy and uses a lot of coconut milk, coconut paste, vinegar, and tamarind juice.

Popular dishes

Koliwada: Spicy battered and fried fish. Kombdi vade: Chicken curry and deep-fried bread. Kismur: A type of salad made using dried shrimp or fish, coconut and onions. Choris pao: Local bread stuffed with pork sausage.

SEA BASS WITH COCONUT AND RUNNER BEAN CURRY

SERVES 4

2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 shallots, halved and finely sliced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 heaped tsp fresh root ginger, grated 10 fresh curry leaves (or dried) 1 tsp garam masala ½ tsp ground turmeric, plus extra for dusting ½ tsp salt 400g can coconut milk 300g runner beans, trimmed and finely sliced on the diagonal 2 unwaxed limes; zest of 1, juice of 1, 1 cut into wedges 4 sea bass fillets 2 x 250g packs ready-cooked basmati rice (or 500g of cooked rice), to serve 1 Put 1 tbsp oil in a large sauté or frying pan over a medium heat. Add the shallots, garlic, ginger and curry leaves; fry for 2-3 minutes until everything is fragrant and turning golden. Add the spices and salt; fry for 1 minute more. 2 Add the coconut milk to the pan and bring to a simmer; add the beans. Simmer gently for about 6-8 minutes, stirring occasionally until the beans are tender. Squeeze in the juice of ½ lime; add more salt and lime juice to taste. 3 Heat the remaining 1 tbsp oil in a large non-stick frying pan over a high heat. Pat the fish dry with kitchen paper and slash the skin a couple of times with a sharp knife. Season the skin with a pinch of salt and a dusting of turmeric then fry, skin-side down, for 3 minutes. Turn the fish, squeeze over the juice of the remaining ½ lime and fry for a final minute until fully cooked through and opaque. 4 Cook the rice according to pack instructions then stir through the zest of 1 lime. 5 Serve the fish and rice with the coconut runner beans and lime wedges. Recipe and images by Waitrose. Thousands of recipes can be found at www.waitrose.com/recipes

COOK’S TIP

Fresh curry leaves have a uniquely nutty and citrussy flavour that really lifts this recipe. If you can’t find fresh, then dried curry leaves are also delicious.

Indian

store cupboard staples If you want to try cooking some Indian dishes at home, then you’ll want to make sure you’ve got these in your cupboard.

SPICE BLENDS

Hill & Vale Spices (www.hillvale.co.uk) in Bristol have put together some versatile spice blends.

Balti Blend

One of the nation’s favourite fusion dishes, the Balti was popularised in Birmingham in the 70s. Fragrant, earthy and mildly spicy, this dish is best served in a Balti bowl with traditional Indian naan and pilau rice.

Garam Masala Blend

Brings complex aromatics, sweetness and warmth to a dish. It can be used to season a wide variety of meals including curries, soups and stews. Add at the end of cooking to preserve the fragrant aromas.

Dhal Blend

Warming and sweet with a slight spicy kick, this dhal blend offers a simple way to recreate this classic Indian dish. Works great as a side dish or alongside rice for a main.

Pilau Rice Blend

Spice mix to recreate this classic and beloved Indian dish. Best used with basmati rice, this side dish acts as a perfect accompaniment to curries.

CHUTNEYS AND PICKLES

Anyone who’s ever had an Indian takeaway will be familiar with mango chutney and lime pickle which are most often served as accompaniments to popadums. Harry Calvert, Founder and Director of Gingerbeard’s Preserves in Bristol (gingerbeardspreserves.co.uk) explains why they make such good platefellows with curries.

“These two world-famous curry condiments are eaten with curry for a very good reason. They provide a balance and enhance the flavour of the particular curry. Although of course they do work with all types of curry, these condiments pair well with certain types. For example, I would eat a hot chutney or pickle with a creamy, mild curry as the two would balance each other out, and a sweet, mild mango chutney with a hot tomato-based curry as the sweetness from the chutney would take away some of the heat and acidity from the main dish. Lime pickle is also popular with popadums at the start of the meal, the sharp, zingy flavours help to freshen up the pallet for the meal ahead!”

Mango Chutney

“From my experience a good mango chutney will have a nice sweetness with just a bit of acidity from the mangoes. This being said, a good mango chutney should not be too sweet (like some of the more commercially produced chutneys), so if you're making your own at home, be sure to tone down the sugar! I always enjoy a mango chutney that is subtely aromatic with spices such as cumin and cinnamon... but again you don't want to over do these as the mango chutney is meant for complimenting the curry not overpowering it.”

Lime Pickle

“Lime pickle, like a mango chutney, comes in many forms. I have tried some good and bad lime pickles in my lifetime and for me, it all comes down to whether the limes are preparded correctly, there is nothing worse than getting a chewy piece of lime... oh and it should have a bit of a chilli kick too! Our lime pickle recipe is based on a Lebanese recipe rather than an Indian recipe and is much fresher and more delicate in flavour than its Indian counterparts. The production process starts three days before the product is actually bottled to help soften the limes. It then sits in the jars for a further four weeks for the flavours and spices to develop and the peel to soften before it's ready to be enjoyed!”

POTATO, PEA AND CHICKPEA SAMOSAS

These vegan samosas are ideal finger food for a party snack, or as a side dish to go with a homemade curry. Baking them in the oven is a much healthier alternative to fried ones.

SERVES 12

600g potatoes (red-skinned varieties will work well), peeled and chopped into very small cubes 2 large garlic cloves, grated 1cm piece of ginger, grated 1 red chilli, grated 150g frozen petit pois Large handful of fresh spinach Small handful of fresh coriander 2 tbsp tikka masala spice paste 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed 2 tsp cumin seeds 1 pack (12 sheets) of filo pastry 1 tbsp mango chutney (optional) Salt and pepper Sprinkle of sesame seeds to top (optional)

1 Cook the potatoes in a pan of salted boiling water for 8-10 minutes. 2 Grate the garlic, ginger and red chilli and cook in a large frying pan with 1 tbsp of the olive oil for 3-4 minutes. Add the cumin seeds and fry for a further 1 minute. 3 Drain the cooked potatoes and add to the pan. Add the chickpeas at the same time. 4 Add the frozen petit pois and 100ml of water. 5 Add the tikka paste and season. Combine all the ingredients together. 6 Roughly tear the spinach leaves and coriander and mix into the pan and cook for 3-4 minutes. Then take off the heat and allow to cool. Once cooled add the mango chutney (optional). 7 Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/ Gas Mark 4. 8 Take a large chopping board and place a layer of filo pastry on top (keep the remaining pastry under a slightly damp tea towel to ensure it doesn’t dry out). Using 3 tbsp of the olive oil, very lightly brush the sheet of filo pastry and place another layer directly on top. Using a sharp knife cut down the middle. 9 Take one of the lengths of pastry and place a tbsp of the cooled potato filling mixture into the left-hand corner. Fold a corner of the pastry across (towards you) to make a triangle. Press down the edges. Brush edges with a little olive oil and fold over on itself again. Repeat the brushing with oil and folding until you come to the end of the pastry. You may need to cut off any excess. 10 Place the samosas on a baking tray lined with parchment paper. Brush with a little olive oil and sprinkle with the sesame seeds (optional). 11 Place in the preheated oven and bake for around 20 minutes or until crispy and golden. 12 Serve with mango chutney. Recipe by Seasonal Spuds (seasonalspuds.com)

BHUNA CURRY

This dish is a curry house favourite and allows you to bring delicious flavours of Indian cooking to your own kitchen. We’ve included a recipe for a curry base which can be used to make a number of different dishes. The bhuna is a thick and moderately hot curry. We chose to add butternut squash and aubergine but it will work just as well with other vegetables or vegetarian proteins so feel free to use your favourites!

SERVES 2-4

FOR THE CURRY BASE 3 tbsp olive oil 2 medium onions 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tsp grated ginger 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground coriander seed 1 tsp turmeric ½ tsp salt 6 fresh coriander stalks, leaves removed 500ml vegetable stock 200g canned chopped tomatoes (approx ½ a tin)

FOR THE BHUNA 3 tbsp vegetable oil 1 medium onion roughly chopped 1 green chilli, de-seeded and finely chopped 1 tbsp coriander stems finely chopped 2 inch piece of ginger peeled and finely chopped 2 garlic cloves finely chopped 2 tbsp tomato purée plus 50 ml water to dilute 1 medium butternut squash, peeled, deseeded and chopped into 1 inch cubes 1 aubergine chopped into 1 inch cubes 3-4 cherry tomatoes, halved Spice mix: 2 tsp curry powder, 1 tsp kashmiri chili powder (if unavailable, you can substitute for ¼ tsp cayenne and ¾ tsp paprika), 1 tsp paprika, 1 tsp garam masala, ½ tsp black pepper, ½ tsp sea salt

FOR THE CHAPATIS 200g plain flour (use 100g wholemeal flour and 100g plain flour if you have them both) A pinch of salt 100ml water 1 tbsp olive oil

FOR THE BHUNA AND CURRY BASE

1 Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. 2 Bring water to a boil in a large saucepan. Quarter onions and separate the internal layers. Combine all of the above ingredients except tomatoes then bring to a gentle simmer for 40 minutes. 3 Add tomatoes and continue to simmer for an additional 20 minutes. Allow to cool slightly before blending to a smooth consistency with an immersion or upright blender. 4 Heat up again and simmer for an additional 20-30 minutes to allow the flavours to develop and the oil to separate out. Stir one last time to reincorporate oil. 5 While the curry base is simmering, add squash and aubergine to a baking tray. Season with salt, pepper and a drizzle of olive oil. Roast for approximately 40 minutes or until tender. 6 Heat a frying pan with oil on a medium heat, add and fry the onion for 2 minutes until golden brown. Add ginger, garlic, chilli and coriander stems stirring for a further 2 minutes. 7 Now reduce heat and add the spice mix, stirring constantly for 30 seconds making sure not to burn the spices. 8 Increase heat to medium high and add the diluted tomato pureé and mix well with other ingredients. Now add the curry base 1/3 at a time stirring in for 2-3 minutes on each occasion. 9 Lower the heat and add the roasted butternut squash and aubergine. Cover the curry and allow to simmer for a further 10-15 minutes. 10 Drop in the cherry tomatoes for the final 3 minutes of simmering. Garnish with fresh coriander and serve with rice and chapatis.

CHAPATIS

1 Mix flour, water and salt in a mixing bowl and knead the dough for 10 minutes. Break the dough into small plum sized pieces and sprinkle flour on to your work surface. 2 Roll out the small dough balls into thin roughly circular chapatis. 3 Heat the frying pan on a medium to high heat and cook each of the flat breads one by one. There is no need to use olive oil in the pan when cooking the chapatis. Recipe by Hill & Vale Spices (www.hillvale.co.uk)

AUBERGINE MADRAS WITH DHAL & PILAU RICE

A simple homemade recipe for a delicious vegetarian madras. Spicy and rich, this tomato-based curry is perfect for a quick and easy midweek meal.

SERVES 2-4

FOR THE MADRAS 4 tbsp olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 aubergine, chopped into 1 inch cubes 1 tbsp white wine vinegar 1 can tinned tomatoes A handful (10g) fresh coriander FOR THE MADRAS SPICE BLEND 4 tsp ground coriander seeds 2 tsp ground cumin seeds ½ tsp ground black pepper ½ tsp turmeric ½ tsp ground black mustard seeds ½ tsp chilli powder ½ tsp salt ½ tsp crushed garlic ½ tsp grated fresh ginger FOR THE DHAL 2 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 1 fresh tomato, roughly chopped 2 heaped tsp dhal blend 200g dried lentils (or 1 can of lentils to save time) Parsley to garnish, roughly chopped

FOR THE MADRAS

1 Heat the oil in pan and fry the onion until soft. Add the chopped aubergine with a good glug of olive oil. Cook for approximately 10 minutes on a medium heat. 2 Mix together the madras spice blend, white wine vinegar and 2 tbsp olive oil to make a paste, add to the aubergine and onion and mix well together. For excess paste, rinse the mixing bowl with a bit of water and pour into the pan. Cook for 1-2 minutes to allow the aubergine to absorb the flavour. 3 Add the can of tomatoes plus half a can full of water and give it a good stir. Simmer for 10 minutes on a medium heat without the lid.

4 Garnish with freshly chopped coriander and serve with pilau rice and dhal.

FOR THE DHAL

1 Cook the lentils according to packet instructions. 2 Heat the oil in a pan and add the onion tomato and garlic and fry until soft.

3 Stir in 3 teaspoons of the dhal blend and mix well.

4 Pour cooked lentils and water from pan (or liquid from tin) in with the onions and tomato. Stir thoroughly so flavours are evenly distributed then let simmer for 10 minutes or until it forms a porridge like consistency. Serve and garnish with parsley. Recipe by Hill & Vale Spices (www.hillvale.co.uk)