Written Work

WRITTEN WORK

SELECTED WORK 1 GENDER FLUIDITY: HOW DOES IT LOOK LIKE? 4

TIME IS LUXURY

2 PICHULIK- THE ESSENCE OF BEING AUTHENTIC 5 THE EVOLUTION OF DENIM JEANS

3 LUXURIOUS DETAILS

6

A BIT OF THE BIZZARE

Gender Fluidity: How does it look like?

For as long as time itself, gender norms were always constrained, and the evolution of fashion never made it easy. Fashion has always played a part in how society perceives itself, but if history has anything do to with it- we can safely say that gender fluid consciousness has trickled down from generation to generation.

The popularity of androgyny took the world by storm in the mid-1990s when being queer started to have a voice in American and European society. Though, when did his revolution start? Many believe that the rise of gender-fluid fashion became a hit with the rise of the Peacock Revolution* which gave homage to the likes of David Bowie and Tilda Swinton. This saw men wearing flamboyant garments such as high-waist pants with a flared hemline, tight and brightly coloured shirts accompanied with chiffon scarves, and platform shoes to finish off the look.

In Africa, there was a slow transformation to gender normcore.

African men also wore like their European counterparts, and transformed to wearing oversized and formfitting suits in earthy and brightly coloured tones. This was paired with beret’s or pie hats in muted colours, and a pair of oxfords

or derby’s always finished off the look. The change was inspired by how masculinity was perceived at that time and how men embraced themselves in society.

For women, this trend was met with some ease. As far as the 1700s, women took initiative in altering how fashion dictated their sense of stylethis notion created the power suit.

For decades, woman looked into incorporating male inspired garments into their closets so that they can be taken seriously in the work force.

This was met with praise and ridicule from their male counterparts.

For the 21st century man and woman, androgyny is the idea that clothing can be passed between both genders which leads to the ease of conversion between gender and sexual identity. But how does this relate to Africans, and how does African gender fluidity even look like?

To answer these questions, we look into a visionary designer that embraces gender fluid fashion as a core foundation to his evolving collection. Adebayo Oke-Lawal of Orange Culture is one African designer that is bending gender norms-and his collection is taking the world by storm.

For his 2017 A/W collection (which was showcased at Fashion Scout in London), he used modern tailoring with Nigerian fabrics to base his collection, however, his use of ruffles (as seen on the collar, waistline of trousers, and on shirt sleeves), oversized proportions and multi-coloured abstract prints (in earthy tones) stole the show. One ensemble that I’m obsessed with is the black on black look which comprised of an oversized blouse with ruffle detailing on the sleeves, high-waist voluminous pants and white slipper-like shoes. London went gaga over the collection, and the world agreed.

For Africans, gender identity has always been a topic of controversy, and the growth of an androgynous community hasn’t made the transition any

easier. With gender fluid fashion taking the world by storm, this trend is met with a lot of ridicule towards men which becomes difficult to “Stay True” to oneself as Adebayo had intended. In my opinion, our similarities and unique attributes should always be embraced, that’s how we will become who we are meant to be. “I’m an elegant man, above all: I’m a man that is in touch with his feminine side.” says Wil.I.Am. What gender fluid fashion has taught me is that gender identity is a wide spectrum that will never be confined, the only thing we need to do is to stay true to ourselves and live our lives the best way we know how- with love.

PICHULIK the essence of being authentic

Authenticity cultivates the courage to be imperfect and vulnerable. We have to believe that we are fundamentally worthy of love and acceptance, and in doing so, we represent one’s true nature or beliefs in a spiritual, kind and dynamic way. This is testament to what Katherine Pichulik and her team embody; the essence of selflessness and love that champions what the brand stands for.

Created in 2013, Pichulik is a womenswear jewelry and accessories brand that celebrates self-reflection. “The brand connects to all women (and men or whatever someone identifies themselves as) who are truthful to themselves and expresses this in the most organic way possible.” says Katherine. They honour stories that are embedded in Africa.

One particular story that resonated with me is about the abalone. I remember learning about the abalone in primary school and how poaching them is legal on South African coastal lines. In the inside, they’re shells are breathtakingly iridescent which makes them more than desirable to poachers and enthusiasts alike.

To honour their memory, Pichulik has created abalone shell shaped earrings that are made from brass cast with 22 karat gold plating.

They’re fluid design captures how the beauty of the earrings can go from day to night with no fuss. The abalone is considered the ears of the ocean and “… these earrings serve to remind us to listen to our internal tide. Know the rhythms that sustain you, when to rest, when to create, and when to express yourself.”she adds.

Growing up, Katherine always knew that being an entrepreneur would be her chosen journey.

“I grew up in a family of entrepreneurs. I learned from a young age that I needed to be self-sufficient, create and cultivate my own opportunities. My mom taught me this. As a single parent in the PR industry, I would always watch my mom being incredibly fierce and bold in working a fulltime job, and yet building a rich life of artistic friends and interesting holidays.” she says.

Katherine’s inception of the brand came from her whimsical childhood memories that speak to how she is and how Pichulik is represented.” I grew up in the late 80s early 90s when there was a lot of costume jewellery. My mom was a bohemian spirit that tried to find a corporate pathway, and in doing so, she also started her own business to make more money. Her dress sense was quite artistic. Her bohemian style of dress influenced me into initially starting a business of statement jewellery because when I was small, I would delicately wrap myself with her exquisite scarfs from her treasure chest and would adorn myself with her clip-on earrings.

That really made me who I am.” she reminisces.

With a background in fine art and patisserie, Katherine enjoyed fashion but more in a crafting, cultural perspective and handmade artisanal spaces. This garnered the inspiration to read art and history books, visit museums, invest in knowing about anthropology and seeing sociological elements and artefacts. “This helped me to understand how imagery, ceremony and ritualistic philosophies showcase ethnographical art forms. I have been blessed to be able to travel the world and seeing different spaces, materials and cultures My insight on natural environments like the Karoo, and seeing places of worship such as in India have allowed me to be inspired and invest in knowing how humans interact with each other. This lead to my realization on how it is really important to stay true to who you are, no matter the trials and tribulations that the world might have.” she says.

Furthermore, what inspires her is not any specific tradition or cultural heritage, it’s the similarity that spans all of them. “Whether you are going to the Middle East, North Africa or to South Asia, inspiration is always there. Jewellery has given all of us an agency to connect to something spiritual which are steeped through

rituals or cultural ceremonies. This in turn connects us to God.” she adds.

With her team behind her all the way, Katherine always strives to create jewellery that has a narrative through their materials, shapes and symbolism on how the colours of the stones and the materials the brand uses. This relates to how a person can think about one's life by being authentic, kind and connecting to the world.

Pichulik is about family, and nothing says more than family like Katherine’s team.” I feel that we are all working together. We are all in alignment and there’s a sense of flow. I love that the people I work with are actualizing their potential and growth, this makes me so proud.” she says.

Pichulik represents being a champion of kindness, inclusivity and meaning. This also translates to their clientele. “ The brand connects to a clientele that is nondenominational and is really inclusive. What I’ve always felt is that we have never been about a specific demographics. We don’t discern through age, colour, size or religious background. Our clients have a certain spirit of being selfreflective, inspired, working on themselves, and being kind and open-minded.” Katherine adds.

The future looks very bright for Pichulik. With a new collection coming soon, the brand has a beautiful key retailer partnership in the USA. Katherine is moving studios to the East City: inside the City of Cape Town. They’ll be taking the top floor of an old heritage site that forms part of District Six. “ We will be opening our space for people to view and experience our flagship store over the weekend. You can sit within our beautiful courtyard and have a coffee and be able to view how the accessories are made. That is really important to the brand that people will be able to purchase and they’ll have an intimate relationship with what Pichulik’s offers.” she says

"I’ve learned that there is no better way to invite more grace, gratitude and joy into our lives than by mindfully practicing authenticity”

says Brene Brown. This is one of the many woman that Katherine resonates with in more ways than one." I have always been inspired by powerful and mindful woman. They've taught me a lot on how to connect to my surrounds in a multi-layered manner. From Oprah Winfrey to Letta Mbuli (just to name a few), these resilient women have not only shaped me and my team, but the world over.

Just like clothing, jewelry is meant to be worn, and in doing so, they embody ones energy and how it is reflected to the world. I for one am connected to the message that Pichulik stands for. We need more clothing and accessory brands that resonate with our surroundings and ourselves in this way.

Blog Posts

Luxurious Details What determines the quality of a garment?

When buying luxury garments, having a ‘quality over quantity’ mentality is essential. This process will continuously refine the way you shop by looking at the finer details to understand the value of your purchased garments. Invest in pieces from a boutique or online store so that you create a relationship whereby you will ultimately trust your instincts with every purchase made. The way you shop will be defined by how you have or are starting to buy high-quality pieces of clothing.

They say practice makes perfect, so visit boutique stores and showrooms to feel and try on the garments. This will help you to understand the fit, durability, workmanship and quality of the garments.

In no time, you will be more confident in making educated purchase decisions for your growing wardrobe that is filled with luxe pieces that are oh-so-stylish and practical for any day of the week.

With regards to online purchases – considering the above-mentioned – you will also develop a knack for adding luxe pieces to your cart even before you see the price tag. Your eyes will become accustomed to looking at beautifully constructed garments without touching them. The clothing descriptions will also give you an indication of the quality of the garments.

Now let’s address the elephant in the room – what determines the quality of a garment and what exactly should you be looking out for?

CLOTHING MADE FROM NATURAL FIBRES Natural fibres (such as cotton, silk, linen, wool etc.) hold better to general wear and tear and are breathable with a copious amount of density. This means that when you hold the garment up to a light, you will not see any transparency from a quality garment because the fabric is tightly woven.

THE QUALITY OF BUTTONS, LINING AND ZIPPERS These garment staples are essential for identifying a luxe item of clothing. If there is messy stitching or loose threads, the garment is not made with attention to detail. Metal and wood buttons (when sewn securely) increase the value of the garment. Also, look into the button holes and check if they are tightly stitched so that they don’t expand with every wear.

Lined garments help with the fit of the item of clothing. Partially or unlined garments don’t sit well on the body because they don’t retain the shape. Not all garments need lining, but it’s essential for coats and blazers.

The use of metal zippers is a sign of a good quality garment. They zip more smoothly and hold the garment more securely than plastic zips. Make sure that you look at how tight the stitching is around the zip.

Upon your next quality purchase, be cognisant of the above-mentioned tips so that you understand the value of supporting local brands that make quality garments, just like us at Laud Pulse.

TIME IS LUXURY How to invest in luxury pieces

We all try to spend our time wisely, and this is more relevant now since most of us work from home daily. The pandemic has altered the way we use our time, so it’s important to invest in this luxury commodity – just like spending on luxury clothing is an investment for the long hall.

Why is it important to invest in luxury garments? Here are simple tips on building a wardrobe that will look oh so fashionable but stand the test of time:

Timeless Pieces Sticking to quality basics when investing in luxury clothing is essential. You want to purchase garments that are worth it over time. For example, when buying a camisole, the first purchase might cost R500.

Because this piece is an important staple in your wardrobe, you wear it all the time. The next camisole you buy might cost more, let’s say a Laud Pulse Overjoyed camisole that costs +R2500. You buy it because the ‘cost per wear’ is much more than your previous one. This means that you will be able to wear the camisole for more years to come without losing its quality. The Overjoyed camisole is made to measure, which means it fits well on your body shape and its classic look compliments all of your wardrobe essentials with ease.

Spend More to Save More.

It’s important to understand that spending more on a garment saves you a lot of money for the future.

Well made garments last longer because they are made from quality fabrics, they are designed with attention to detail, i.e. how many stitches per garment (the more the better the quality) and how the clothes don’t lose their design integrity overnight. This means that your treasured garments can be passed on to future generations.

Know What You Love When investing in luxury items, you need to know what you will be living with. Buying items that you will be happy to see and use almost every day is essential. The art of having luxury garments is to use them. Do not treat them like treasured gold, they are meant to be functional so that whenever you are going about your day, your confidence is elevated because you look stylish whilst running your errands or just lounging around the house reading your favourite book.

Always remember, having quality and classic pieces is the foundation of an exquisite wardrobe. So shop away ladies, enjoy finding your next timeless piece that will continue to feed your Carrie Bradshaw moments for many years to come.

TAKING OVER THE WORLD: THE EVOLUTION OF DENIM JEANS

Denim is a staple in most closets and a go-to for quick style. It’s practical, wearable, suitable for a wide range of bodies, and can be paired with anything. There have been many denim-centric trends that have come and gone, and come back again. This is only a testament to the fact that denim is going nowhere. Since this hard-wearing fabric has a somewhat omnipresent influence in our lives, we looked into how it has become the “cool” factor for politicians, musicians and everyday people alike.

LOOKING BACK IN TIME: THE HISTORY OF DENIM Denim fabric has its roots in the town of Genoa, northern Italy. During Napoleon Bonaparte’s rule, the town’s weavers created a cotton fabric for French troops, dubbed “blue de jean” by the soldiers. With time this name turned into the widely-used term “jeans”. Soon after, the cloth spread to the south of France, in the town of Nimes, which is famous for its textiles and ribbons.

In Nimes, the weavers worked on their own version, which came out tougher and hard-wearing, and was known as “serge de Nimes” (the cloth from Nimes). Soon after, the cloth was simply called “de Nimes”, which translated to “denim” over the years.

In 1860s Nevada, USA there lived Jacob Davis, who was a talented tailor. Davis made work wear from denim fabric for his customers, which included tradespeople such as miners, lumberjacks and cowboys. He bought the fabric from a nearby supplier in San Francisco by the name of Levis Strauss. The tough cotton fabric was turned dark blue with indigo dye made from the Asian plant, indigofera tinctoria.

Seeing that his business was booming, Davis approached Strauss about going into partnership with him. Before the they sealed the deal, Davis added copper rivets to stop the garments from tearing, since his customers needed durability in their hard-wear clothing. Afterwards, the gentlemen patented their idea and never looked back.

ADAPT OR DIE: THE EVOLUTION After the Gold Rush of the 1950s, denim became part of the wardrobe in a time when a gentlemanly, or rather a “grown up” dress sense was still a major in both female and male places of work. The denim trend gradually integrated itself into the workplace, through influence from musicians and cool kids of the time, who wanted a different look.

Now, since denim is a staple in most households, the weight, fit and the wash of the garment plays a role in the transition of jeans from 100 years ago to the present. Though manufacturing stages have stayed relatively the same, the above mentioned attributes have modernised the garment for all preferences.

The Wash There are about 100 different washes that one can get, which didn’t exist in the 1950’s. What is “the wash”? Simply put, this term refers to the tumbling and the effect it give to the denim. The fabric may have a bleed*, which gives the garment a softer feel and different patterns within the whickering of the indigo. With traditional raw denim, it’s not washed, so it’s more rigid than a washed jean.

Cut and Fit

In comparison to denim jeans of yesteryear, the fit and cut of jeans has become more tapered and slimmer, though there is a much wider variety of fits and styles available in stores.

Meet the denim trends you’ll buy and wear in 2019: STRAIGHT-LEG JEANS, IN DARKER WASHES They’re more versatile for wearing to work and dressing up.

BAGGY JEANS Slouchy becomes the new skinny with this relaxed look dominating the streets.

CROPPED JEANS This style has been an influential trend all over the world for a couple of years now, and doesn’t show signs of stopping any time soon.

Which ones are your favourite to rock all over the globe?

a bit of the bizarre.

“Clothes are meant to be worn” says fashion designer extraordinaire Yves Saint Laurent, and how one wears them is relative to their mood, lifestyle, and ultimately- their willingness to look unique. Many people choose to purchase fast fashion or ready-to-wear pieces because of how the garments are comfortable. Some people want to break free from daily expectations. They want to define themselves outside societal norms that dictate how garments should be worn, and in doing so, they spotlight the realm of avant-garde fashion. Here are two formidable fashion designers that cater for all the bizarre:

THIERRY MUGLER: Named the “Designer of the Year” in 1974, his success story shone brightly with acclaimed collections, ingenious fashion shows that he conceived and curated, painting-like photos that he created himself, short films, video clips and films.

Going against folkloric, unstructured fashion, the collection had an urban, sexy, flirty vibe, confident in itself. It exuded ultra- femininity, a dramatization of the everyday unveiling of a woman.

“I ALWAYS TRY TO CONVEY SENSATIONS, A SENTIMENT... I ALWAYS TELL STORIES, STORIES ABOUT MEN AND WOMEN, INSPIRED BY ALL THE POISONOUS FLOWERS AND MISCHIEVOUS CREATURES OF THE MYTHOLOGICAL WORLD.”

The formative aesthetic expressed in the works of Thierry Mugler was characterized by the eroticism and the futurism. The eroticism was specified into the sexualism, primitivism and fetishism, and those of futurism were divided into the Cosmo corps and the grotesque. The eroticism was based on the design concept on the body of woman.

CLIVE RUNDLE:

Dubbed the godfather of Construction, Clive Rundle is unparalleled visual depth par excellence. His use of luxurious one-of-a-kind fabric paired with impeccable detailing garners extraordinary pieces that stand the test of time. As one of the fore fathers of contemporary fashion design in South Africa, he’s complex structural nature of intricate garment processing is unparalleled. These include cutting, hand-dying, hand-printing and elaborate embellishment. As such, each piece is unique and not easily reproduced; his clientele (businesswomen) are his biggest support love his clothes because they make a statement without try too hard.

Part of the brands success comes from the numerous local and international exhibitions that have housed his garments. In 2018 Clive was invited to attend and exhibit at the Commonwealth Fashion Exchange in London at the Buckingham Palace. In our shores, his garments were showcased Zeitz Mocca in Cape Town. They were part of the SAFW (South African Fashion Week) 21st exhibition that celebrated 21 years of the institution’s existence.

Couture creates beauty that speaks to a greater target audience that appreciate high quality clothing for everyday use. Avant-garde fashion is for the dreamers, they appreciate the highest of craftsmanship which encompasses the flair of art and the construction of sciences. And how they harmoniously exist with each other celebrates the joy of creating.

SIFISO MAHLANGU V i s u a l

C o n t e n t

C r e a t i v e

E: info@sifisomahlangu.com W: www.sifisomahlangu.com C: +27 (65) 842 6782