03 by anam xinwa

editorial space

It is our 3rd edition. To be honest with you I never thought we would get this far, because a lot of people said what we were taking on was too risky and impossible (meaning it cannot be done, by us), so we took on the challenge and here we are. With God and a great team, anything is possible through faith and passion. Love of fashion is what brought us together. In this edition Ngawethu chats to Abenathi, a model on the rise. We also have a look at this year’s JHB fashion week 2013. Get to know your designers; Nonhlanhla Ngwenya, Sokhana Nqabeni, Nomfuneko Nkenyane and Abongile Gcingca. We have a feature on fellow designers within Africa. And Khaya interviews Sivuyile Giba, a stylist. Remember to like our Facebook page and interact with us so that we know what you would like to see on the magazine. Give us feedback about what you read on the journal.

“love of fashion is what brought us together” Meet our new team members Ovayo Matshikwe and Nobuntu Mbhele, fashion students at UJ. In our previous edition, on page 31 we wrote that Anezwa Sigenu (model) was 28 years old, but her actual age is 20 years old, we apologise for that. If you would love to be part of this movement get in contact with me. We are still looking for designers, models, jewellers, bag makers, shoe makers, crafters and generally people in the fashion industry. No matter how small your business / brand is, we will feature and profile you. Our services are free, meaning we do not charge people to be in our magazine. Let us not just build businesses, let us build legacies.

Anam Xinwa FOUNDER & EDITOR

“just some of my favourite things”

CONTRIBUTORS founder & editor : Anam Xinwa

fashionista Ngaweth

u ka Siph

iwo

stylist :

Inga Magwentshu

fashion analyist : a

Kamalar NC Mgweb

student writer : Ovayo Mats

hikwe

features writer : Kaya Nqwelo

student writer : Nobuntu Mbhele

0844783782 Contacts - 0836839877 / ail.com

Email - ilaphulamafj@gm

nfashionjournal

FB page - /ilaphlamafrika

layout artist: Nathi Xinwa

CONTENT PAGE 01VIBRANT 03JOBURG FASHION WEEK 2013 09FASHION LOVERS ANONYMOUS : LADY KAMALAR 12CELROSE, BEHIND THE FABRIC : NGAWETHU & ANZETTE 13KU-RAFF KU-RONG 15LOVE & FASHION : NGAWETHU KA-SIPHIWO 17THE SOKHANA INTERVIEW :

KAYA NQWELO

19MOTHERLAND STYLE : INSPIRED PRINTS 23INTERNATIONAL FASHION HOUSES 25MSHOTOLO INC. 27CAMPUS FASHION : NOBUNTU MBHELE 30THE TRUTH ABOUT FASHION #1 : OVAYO MATSHIKWE

CONTEN 31HERSTORY 33ABENATHI NODADA : MAIN FEATURE 36SHINE : INGA MAGWENTSHU 37CTN STUDIOS 39SOLANGA 41SIVUYILE GIBA : THE STYLIST 43SEPTEMBERANGE MODELLING AGENCY 45THE DISGRUNTLED DESIGNER 47NANCY KOKETSO 49ANDILE GQOGQA 51AMANI DECEMBER 53LOW BUDGET CHIC : KAYA NQWELO

vibrant Nomfuneko Nkenyane nkenyane@gmail.com

FASHIONWEEK

JOBURG

It is every South African designer’s dream to showcase their collection at SA fashion week. To show fashion lovers and supporters the magic their hands can create. Introducing to the audience their new warm breath taking creations of autumn/winter collections. Crossing fingers and hoping that everyone will endorse each ones individual approach of creativity towards autumn/winter trends. This is sure quite daunting, as you will see designers backstage praying that everything goes according to plan. Well I am now talking from experience. But besides the pressure and hard work backstage, no one will actually know that it is pretty hectic back there. The glamorous models clothed in the most beautifully tailored garments, walking with grace and confidence, as if they are given vast authority over the garments, which of cause the splendour and beauty they uphold need no emphasis. It is no secret though, behind the glam and success of the show there is the thing called blood and it goes along with sweat.

compiled by Khaya Nqwelo

clive rundle Born in Zimbabwe, Clive Rundle grew up in South Africa where he studied fashion design in Johannesburg. He goes as a constructionist rather than a fashion designer with intricate structure being the essence of his design. The inherent structuring of his patterns can lead the translation in any direction; frugal, avant-garde, classical, elaborate or contemporary. His language is the language of beauty through meticulous use of form, line, colour and texture.

Clive’s inspiration is the Rorschach inkblot test, a psychological test in which subjects’ perceptions of inkblots is recorded and analysed using psychological interpretation, complex algorithms or both. It examines a person’s personality characteristics and emotional functioning. It has been employed to detect underlying thought orders in cases where viewers are reluctant to describe their thinking processes openly, to feel them and receive visual input as to what they are feeling while seeing.

ephymol Ephraim Molingoane started out as a model before rerouting himself into fashion design. He worked extensively abroad before returning to Johannesburg and opening Ephymol Studio. His diverse travelling experience influences his bold and individualistic design aesthetic. Ephraim has also earned numerous Best Dressed awards, which have vastly opened his clientele range from sport personalities, musicians, actors and many leaders in the fashion industry. He shares a twin passion for dance and music and continues to pursue these talents, while keeping his focus on design.

For the first time, Ephymolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spring Summer Collection will showcase womenswear as well as menswear. Inspired by old Hollywood glamour, the range features retro silhouettes. The menswear is sports luxe with cotton and lambâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wool suits. The womenswear takes on a more avant-garde feel with chiffon and lace in gold and black. With sequin detailing and beadwork, the range pays homage to the 50s and 60s with a modern edge. content sourced from www.southafricanfashionweek2013.com www.hautecouture.com

cutterier Eastern Cape native, Laz Yani, moved to Port Elizabeth to study fashion and pattern engineering. After his studies, he was awarded a bursary and a two-year internship at an acclaimed fashion brand. Laz was afforded the opportunity to showcase in Vienna, Austria in 2011. He is currently specialising in CMT as the manager of the Cutting Room, overseeing grading, sampling, marking and cutting and liaising with the designers that the business supplies to.

Cutterierâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Spring Summer collection is inspired by the travelling woman. The fabrics used are wrinkle-free, allowing the garments to retain their original state even after being packed. The range showcases sophisticated resort wear with pieces that are versatile and can be worn for all seasons and occasions.

missshape Jamal Nxedlana is a visual artist living and working between Durban and Johannesburg. In 2007 Jamal graduated from the Durban University of Technology with a B-Tech in Fashion Design, after which he moved to London where he gained international experience at The Ethical Fashion Forum, The Super Super(magazine) and Dazed and Confused(magazine). After two years abroad, Jamal moved back to South Africa where he has been working on projects in various creative fields. He has shown work at galleries in Johannesburg and Cape Town both as an independent artist and as part of Cuss, an artist group he co-founded in 2011.

Jamalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s artistic production is often influenced by popular culture and it is this interest that has led to his involvement in advertising as a researcher, reporter and consultant on popular culture trends in South Africa. In 2012 Jamal founded Missshape a womenswear label, which he currently works as creative director at. So far the label has shown collections at the Durban Fashion Fair and SA Fashion Week. Jamal is currently working on Missshapeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s SS 13/14 collection, which will be shown on the 12th of April as part of SA Fashion Week. content sourced from www.southafricanfashionweek2013.com www.hautecouture.com

naked ape Having worked abroad as a model, fashion director and stylist in New York, Paris and Milan, Shaldon Kopman returned home to South Africa to fill the role of fashion editor for Elle, Soccer Life, Tribute and Y Mag. From his studio and showroom in the Johannesburg CBD, Shaldon caters to the suit and street savvy gentleman. In 2006, he won GQ’s Best Dressed Man Award and has appeared on Fashion Police for the Royal Monaco Wedding. Shaldon’s garments are handmade, practical and multifunctional. He is constantly intrigued and inspired by the dynamic wealth of creativity found on the streets of Johannesburg as well as Africa’s multi-cultural societies.

The inspiration for this installation is about the rural-urban migration of a young man, challenged by the evolutionary philosophies of adaptation and growth. In classic Naked Ape style, pieces are made from natural fabrics like hand woven bamboo, organic cotton and hemp, accented and layered with fine, perforated leather.

stoned cherrie Since its inception in 2000, Stoned Cherrie has created a renewed appreciation for a distinctively African design aesthetic. Designers Nkhensani Nkosi and Thabani Mavundla celebrate the rich heritage and icons of South Africa. The label first created a stir when it partnered with Baileyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Historical Archives to use Drum magazine images of fiery shebeen queens, bold intellectuals and sparkly 50s cover girls. The have used crotchet and shweshwe on the runway and emblazoned t-shirts with national heroes like Steve Biko in an exploration of what it means to be an African in the 21st century.

In 2004, the brand launched a successful eyewear range that supplies over 450 stores throughout Africa. After showcasing at New York Fashion Week in 2009, Stoned Cherrie launched a new line of interior fabrics and bespoke corporate fabric. The label continues to use fashion as a vehicle to advance African ideals of beauty and design. content sourced from www.southafricanfashionweek2013.com www.hautecouture.com

FASHION LOVERS ANONYMOUS & the fashion virus by Lady Kamalar

I realised early on in life that there are things I’d have to give up for the sake of my sanity. Things I’d surrender because I know myself and how far I can take things. We all have our limits. And every fashion lover knows someone or has been diagnosed with the almost-terminal strain of the fashion virus. A sickness of epidemic proportions. If you are not aware of it, don’t worry. There is no need for a doctor to spot the symptoms I know that we usually take and speak of things lightly but, this problem speaks volumes about our feelings, of a financial lack, and of emotional, spiritual and personal issues. What is sad is that sometimes some of us fall into the trap while trying to impress and furthermore we go out of our way and end up in uncomfortable situations.

To Be An Impulsive or Non-Impulsive Buyer? While we know impulsive spending is not good for us we question how nonimpulsive buying can feature negatively in all of this. But even good habits can get rotten. Let me go back to the start where I mentioned having realised that there are certain things I would do best to avoid. Growing up my love for fashion was a little excessive. I had to have everything I liked. It was never a matter of need, as it always is in these matters. I just had to have it no matter how pricey the tag.

even good habits can get rotten Then came the high school and varsity stages. All of a sudden I could get clothing accounts and other things just by being a student. When the time came, like everybody else I proudly opened an Edgars account.

On my first purchase I was fortunate enough to realise that this could get me in a lot of trouble, which is something I didn’t really want for my life. Now, I knew my weakness and recognised the damage it could cause in my life. I noticed by the way I was feeling so pumped up picking out those clothes; the rush they created excited my heart but made my spirit fearful. These were not normal feelings for me as an analyst. The adrenaline rush felt like a drug, and in actuality it was a drug that fuelled the excitement to my sickness and obsession for clothing. As I walked out of that shop with a bag full of clothes and a credit of R200 left from the R1500 voucher they’d given me, it hit me. On the way to my place at the time I realised that there was something wrong with me. My heart was beating fast. I was overcome by the rush of shopping but I was scared as well. I loved all of

those clothes but I also knew there was something wrong with what I had done. I had gotten myself in a lot of trouble and I wasn’t going to be able to keep up with it, knowing my track record. This is something I’d been vaguely aware of even before I’d had clothing account.

shoes every two months. I saw this as my early grave and debt was the shovel I’d be digging with. So I made the decision to cut ties with clothing accounts and credit cards. Such accessories would not be a good thing for me. If I still wanted to enjoy clothes and shopping I’d have to

fail. There does not seem to be something wrong with it except that you get no freedom from debt, no matter how small. It takes on a life of its own accumulating growth and interest with time. Then again let me take you through the depths

now, I knew my weakness and recognised the damage it could cause in my life. I noticed by the way I was feeling so pumped up picking out those clothes; the rush they created excited my heart but made my spirit fearful. these were not normal feelings for me I knew that while others used their money on alcohol and/or other sources of entertainment, mine was budgeted for my trips to the mall where I’d be buying clothes that I loved and wanted. This is what made me happy; staying fashion forward and updated gave me pleasure. It was a pick-me-up when I felt down. And no item was complete without shoes to complement it. At the very least a new pair of

pay cash, to avoid constant worry.

And that is how the non-impulsive purchase can be rotten; through our clothing accounts, credit cards and bank overdrafts. The mentality that most people have is that they are able to manage their accounts, which is true if they pay the monthly costs and interest without

of clothing, especially its meaning to fashion lovers. Fashion has the strength to destroy its lovers through its therapy. What we don’t realise is that a fashion lover turns to fashion for sympathy, an ear for every sort of problem or frustration they are going through because it is the one thing that makes them feel good but, as much as it is a sympathiser it is also a pocket destroyer and

...

an emotion twister. Soon it becomes a norm to shop as therapy and at times you’ll do it to fill voids and not even realise it.

In 2011 I had gone through a tragedy where my face and chest sustained burns from a paraffin heater explosion, and so last year I had been making trips to the skin clinic in Johannesburg for treatment to get my skin back to its even tone. The one thing I did when I was there without fail was to shop excessively, especially on my last trip to the extent of realising and asking myself why are was I buying all of these things? I tried to make sense and reason with my purchase but, considering my financial position with the skin treatments, transport and all other costs reality soon hit me hard across the face. I needed at least 3-4 treatments so why was I not saving this money instead of buying these clothes. I could easily save it for my post treatment expenses; the ointments and creams

that weren’t cheap. I needed to do what makes me happy without landing myself in a situation where I’d need more retail therapy. I’ve learned that our subconscious mind has the tendency to hide things from us, major issues we should address. Until one recognises that there is an issue, they will not see that they have a problem. Ignoring the issue only makes the situation worse and it gets out of control. And one way or the next, the problem has to be dealt with otherwise the stories start getting really twisted. Like this lady who lives in a cluttered house full of clothes. She buys and never gets to wear some of them for years most of which are still tagged with price tags from 3 years ago. Meanwhile she’s drowning in bills from month to month. Do you see how deep the problem lies, it is not her love for clothing but her escape from her real issues which is bound to cause her more grief. Maybe her debt is not only being caused by the clothing but because the clothing is taking most of her money she cannot settle her bills.

What I’m saying is let us be aware of our passions. They run deeper than what we see and have the ability to throw us down and out. Our love for fashion has our emotions, personalities and hearts attached to it and it can be a threat to our wellbeing. We must be aware of our weaknesses and voices and go down these roads without denting ourselves and uncomfortable. Since my first time with a clothing account I made a decision that in my life I would never take clothing accounts nor credit cards. I would rather buy cash. I had identified my weakness and needed to protect myself/life from it. If I can’t afford it then that means I can’t have it. But not having clothing debt does not make it okay because if I still lack elsewhere. And this is the issue I’m dealing with now. Fashion lovers, this is a process. What is most important is that our problems be identified and dealt with one step at a time. AFJ.

BEHIND THE FABRIC

celrose factory

the

by Ngawethu ka Siphiwo and Anzette Geel Fashion is very broad as well as its different fields. Unfortunately not all of us can be lucky enough to own boutiques and fashion houses. We took the time to find out the processes that take place in a factory. We salute the hard working souls that labour in factories whom we often take for granted. Truth is that we get easily excited when we see clothes displayed at Edgars, Foschini and Woolies but do we know how all this comes about? We are however happy with the fact that we still have factories that are offering employment to people as most of the mass production market has been taken by the foreign producers like the Chinese. Therefore government needs to intervene as we need more factories like Celrose.

flow. (the stickers have different electronic clocking system and meanings for example red might padded mats are offered for represent that the factory is added comfort. waiting for fabric from China or blue meaning that the factory is As in any factory; productivity is accepting spec from the buyer) key: This is where the work starts for

Productivity

factory workers as once the buyer approves bulk production sample. Mass production starts here. In the production line, there are those They measure productivity with who specialize in making collars output divided by inputs. or just cuffs. They are as vital to The main factory produces 1300 the team as other people, so the menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s formal shirts and the new team is very important. factory produces 1700 formal shirts per day for stores such as Safety is very important at Edgars. The most interesting and the factory as the machine is crucial thing is that blackboards very dangerous if people are are used per table to record not careful. Visible photos on the target and an hourly record walls and there is fire fighting is kept to monitor production equipment should a fire start, as numbers. well as first aid kit.

Garment Production Stages:

Preparation: Material is laid by a machine or by hand. Cutting: Material is cut by machine. (staff put stickers onto In a factory, time is money every the different pieces cut by a second counts ,therefore we machine, so the they are easily should count our blessings and identified) be thankful for the jobs we have. Pattern Making: Buyers travel Targets are set and if the team overseas and return with samples, does not reach that target your the pattern makers design and salary is affected. cut patterns for client. The pattern is done on a computerized system We want you to know that there called Letra. are opportunities available in Samples Making: After the pattern fashion. This article is for those has been made the material that who specialize in pattern has to be used is finalized as well making, technical drawing and as trimmed. Client approves the CAD. There are opportunities in sample before bulk production is factories for internships. started. Planning Board: This is where all Our Factory Visit orders from different retailers are recorded and managed. This Technology has improved at is done by the use of different the Celrose factories. Staff use stickers indicating the weekly

Everyone has a role to play in this world no matter how small it may seem but without this people doing the work they do our economy is crippled. Government has to come in and assist. Designers have to dream big and they need to start working together so that massive tenders can be received that will assist with the current lack of jobs in South Africa. It is also important for graduates to get the proper internships and that they are not exploited.

AFJ.

kuraff kurong Jabu “J2DEG’’Nsundu 078 0819 992

j2deg@gmail.com FB : Israel J Nsundu

LOVE & FASHION by Ngawethu ka Siphiwo

Coco Chanel wrote: Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas the way we live, what’s happening around us. I associate fashion with love... love is often defined as a feeling you get when you meet the right person. Same applies to fashion it is all about getting to a stage where the look is completed or should i say feels right, where you find that perfect neck piece that compliments your neckline as well as your outfit.

“attention is the most basic form of love”

Attention is the most basic form of love. Through it we bless and are blessed - John Tarrant.

That is why we love fashion, because it never fades away. Fashion brings nations together so it contributes positively to society...look around you. We are now highlighting the importance of designers going the extra mile for fashion. There are really some garments and trends that we will always be thankful to designers for starting… which were discovered many years ago that we still celebrate to this day. The question that

fashion is a form of liberation As designers and fashionistas, we need to express our love for fashion by paying attention to detail. It is often that special detail/signature that makes our work stand out and therefore makes us unique. Therefore that assists us with preserving our identity. I see fashion as a form of liberation, the beauty about fashion is that it does revolutions. It has a starting point and can be repeated over and over again. It’s been known to make major comebacks after centuries.

we have to ask ourselves is that where we there in the moment? That is why we can never love, we need to think, feel, discover and then love. Get lost in the moment. That is how we sell products to our target market, it is for the simple reason that we love our product and we believe in it, after all some thought was put into it. Art is amazing we write when we are sad and we sing/dance when we are happy therefore let us try and attract positive

energies that allows us to remain in a creative atmosphere where our work inspires others... For the love of fashion.

thankful for the discovery that was made centuries ago, they continue to embrace the trend while men have also come to terms with fact that wearing a short garment does not imply anything.

Those that educate themselves have learnt to appreciate as most male designers are exercising their creativity by exploring the shorter length that compliments a woman’s legs. Even Black women feel confident and free in wearing miniskirts, because times have changed. AFJ.

NECKPIECES

History was made by

MADE FOR THE

LOVE OF FASHION

an English seamstress, Mary Quant, when she stumbled upon the mini skirt. She was famous for wild and kinky clothes and opened a boutique in London. A place where most of the renowned fashion designers hailed.

The mini helped in breaking down traditional barriers for women in other areas of society. Women could freely highlight their best attributes without being judged. Women in this era are

you will not see these pieces on a daily basis but definitely on the runway, this is where some question the inspirations behind these creations”... I have however educated you on how similarly radical creations came about...

neckpieces you’ll most likely find on a normal day...

the sokhana interview Ilaph’lam got the exciting opportunity to speak to a young star in fashion, designer Sokhana Nqabeni. She might be young, but is she new to the industry? Kaya Nqwelo got down to it with this down-to-earth and talented artist of the cloth... Tell me about yourself, where are you from? _I’m originally from the Eastern Cape and grew up in Port Elizabeth. I’m a fashion designer for private clients, celebrity stylist and also now a hostess. At which stage in your life did you realize that you wanted to become a fashion designer? _I think I’ve always wanted to be a fashion designer. Since my childhood I would always alter the clothes my mom bought me. Just to make them unique and different. What was the first item of clothing you ever designed? _It was a 4 piece Xhosa inspired outfit. A pair of Capri pants and boobtube top, heavily beaded and complete with a shawl and waist wrap.

What is it that you like about designing clothes? _Being able to educate my clients on what styles suits their particular figures. Because most people have no idea as to what really suits them. It’s an amazing feeling when they learn/see how good they can actually look. Where do you get inspiration? _I’m inspired by my clients. Their background, personality and favorite things. In one sentence please illustrate your personal style? _A combination of Coco Chanel, Valentino and Rihanna. What are your accomplishments as a designer/ stylist and what are your goals? _I’ve represented the Eastern Cape (only female) at the Nationals in Johannesburg for the SAB KickStart Competition, a few years back. I’m proud to say that I’m the official stylist for Tema Sebopedi. She plays the character of Lerato on our local soapie Isidingo. In the fashion industry who inspire you most, and why? This can be anyone, fashion model, fashion stylist.etc. _The Stoned Cherrie brand has always been my favourite. I’ve even worked for them as a fashion buyer. What do you believe makes quality piece of clothing? _Good quality fabric and clothing construction. That’s what makes good quality designs.

Sokhana Nqabeni 083 4303 099 sox@samsam.co.za TWITTER : @threesox

How do your clothes vary from other designers? _My designs vary from other designers because I always use the client as the muse. And not what’s in high fashion at that point in time. I believe you have your own perception on the subject of fashion, so is there any thin line separating fashion and style? _My motto has always been: Fashion fads comes and go... but your own sense of style will never go out of fashion. Where can readers find you/ your clothes? _I have a ‘Sokhana Designs’ album on my personal facebook profile (Sokhana Nqabeni). I also have a blog that I write different things about. My blog link is http://TheeSox. blogspot.com What are your plans or goals? In terms of growing your brand I mean... _To dress very influential people and be a household name/brand. Can you please describe the women who wear Sokhana Designs garments? _Women who wear my designs are confident; they know what they want and have a wild side that comes out to play... from time to time!

AFJ.

MOTHERLAND STYLE:

inspired prints

images sourced from www.fashionafrica.com & afro bikinis by adam harris

MOTHERLAND STYLE:

...inspired prints

images sourced from www.fashionafrica.com & afro bikinis by adam harris

Alali Boutique Inspired by the subconscious thoughts of Creative Director, Oroma CookeyGam, her designs fuses together surface water

ALALI BOUTIQUE

sportsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; wear with the glamour of the 1950s to create effortlessly stylish pieces. Alali boutique

CHRISTIE BROWN Lisa Folawiyo founder and

JEWEL

creative director of Jewel by Lisa studied Law at the University of Nigeria. In 2005,

by Lisa

with no formal training, she

JIL

SARAH DUAH 23

brings a fresh refined looks and a contemporary attitude, the brand is an emerging retail fashion brand in Nigeria that specializes in eclectic pieces for the daring individual. At the heart of the ALALI Boutique philosophy lies individuality, expressed in both its basics and elaborate pieces, which are all, tailored to exude an effortless chic lifestyle. ALALI Boutique’s signature style manipulates silhouettes, prints and colours, with an emphasis on casual elegance.

Launched in 2008, Christie Brown is a Ghana based womenswear fashion label that aims to satisfy the stylish urge of “that modern woman who seeks a true taste of Africa” Creative Director Aisha Obuobi began her love affair with fashion at an early age. Inspired by her grandmother Christie Brown, a seamstress. Today, Christie Brown stands uniquely as women’s apparel and accessories label, with pieces ranging from beautiful bespoke gowns, practical yet statement pieces to innovative accessories all inspired by the African culture and art. Her clothes and accessories have made a bold statement, painting the runways with a fusion of colour and culture, fit for the contemporary African woman. To date, the label has demonstrated international success, with features in magazines such as Grazia UK, Vibe Magazine, FairLady Magazine, Afroelle Magazine, Arise Magazine, Jet Magazine, and several online media features.

started the label in her home. It was her passion for clothes and her innate sense of style that led her to attempt what, at the time had, never been done; the embellishing of the country’s local fabric. Revolutionizing the way Ankara is used in fashion is part of the reason why Jewel by Lisa has become a global phenomenon. Mix unique fabrics with the retro touch to contemporary silhouettes and you have a new vintage look in cocktail dresses, pants, minis.

Creative Director Adoley Addo the brain behind JIL has no formal education in design. After a law degree at the university of Ghana her passion for fashion kept escalating, which led to the opening of her first multi branded boutique and the birth of her own label JIL. JIL focuses on giving exposure to what we have in Africa to the international world. Using African prints enhanced with embellishments and other fabrics like silks. Recently JIL main focus has been on the Ghanaian Kente cloth, reworking the traditional Kente cloth extensively with beads uniquely for her collection. The vibrant colours of the Kente cloth combined with beads and rhinestones give an extraordinary jewel-like appeal to the traditional fabric known globally as a symbol for Ghana. This idea is carried through JIL’s recent collection titled “Heritage”

Innovative fashion describes emerging interesting German designer Sarah Duah’s avant-garde collection; the recent graduate with a fashion degree, entire collections are skilfully created using artificial hair, turning them into wearable garments. As an artist Sarah is strongly inspired by her surroundings, including elements such as hair, which is evident within her collections. Sarah’s creative ideas push the art of using hair beyond familiar boundaries into the realms of intricate patterns and authentic pieces beyond one imagination. Every piece of her anticipated collection to showcase at Ghana Fashion & Design Week will be handmade, carefully selected cuts and shapes, bringing her imaginations to life as wearable garments.

mshotolo inc. Anam Xinwa 084 4783 782

anamxinwa@yahoo.com

bh e

US FAS No bu HIO nt u N M by

MP CA

Lehasa 2nd year UJ Fashion Student

Sakhile 2nd year UJ Fashion Student Why did you take Fashion Design as a study of choice? Because it was the second best thing to art. What is one item of clothing or trend that is considered in fashion right now that you wish wasn’t? Colored skinny jeans! Why do you think the government doesn’t invest so much in fashion design like they do with sports? I think it’s because they don’t understand it. You can’t take something serious that you don’t understand. Take art for instance : a painting of a naked person is considered porn instead of art. What’s your opinion on local designers? I think they don’t explore different markets. They depend too much on the Europeans to tell them what’s trendy now and then they follow it. What difference do you think you going to make in the fashion industry? I won’t make a difference in the fashion industry; .I’ll make a difference in the ARTS . I’m not sure how, yet but my vision is broader than fashion.

What’s your opinion on the local designers? I think they’re doing well for themselves and being recognized by the rest of the world. Our designers grace the covers of international fashion magazines which is very inspiring to us, upcoming designers . What’s one item of clothing or trend that is considered in fashion right now and you wish wasn’t? - Leggings! Why did you take Fashion Design as a study of choice? I’ve always wanted to do fashion but tried running away from it because that’s what people expected me to do mainly because of my sexuality. I tried doing other things very far from fashion but everywhere I went I always found myself involved in something fashion related and then I realized that I shouldn’t pretend not to hear my calling in order to make other people happy. Why do you think the government doesn’t invest in fashion design as much as they do with sports? I think it’s because they don’t believe in it. Not just, fashion but arts in general. What do you think of Alexander McQueen? Wow, he’s the best! I love how he incorporates fashion with arts. If I had an idol, it would be him. His designs are filled with intellect.

US FAS HIO N MP CA Faseega 1st year UJ Fashion Student What’s your opinion on local fashion designers? I think we copy a lot so it’s hard to look at a designer and say he/she’s brilliant because most of their designs have been seen before. Name one item of clothing or trend that is considered in fashion but you wish wasn’t? Colour blocking! People need to stop doing it because it’s so last ten seasons! What made you take fashion design as a study of choice? There’s nothing I love better than clothes. The clothing in the shops is not really doing it for me anymore and that’s why I’m studding fashion in order to make my own. Why do you think the government doesn’t invest in fashion as much as they do with sports? I think it’s because we come from difficult times as a country. What difference do you think you going to make in the fashion industry? I’m going to make quality clothing for the masses. I want to make clothes that are trendy but can be afforded by an average person.

Anga 1st year UJ Fashion Student What’s your opinion on local fashion designers? I think they’re good but invest too much on designing for females and neglect the males. Why did you take fashion design as your study of choice? I want to be the one to focus on males and do more than just pants and tees. I want to show that even we males can be fashionable. What difference do you think you going to make in the fashion industry? I’m going to bring what hasn’t been brought yet which is my vision of fashion. What do you think of Marc Jacobs? I think he’s dope! He’s in the direction I want to take and that is doing more than just pants and tees for men. Why do you think the government doesn’t invest as much in fashion as they do with sports? I think it’s because they don’t take it as serious as sports and the other academic stuff. They don’t believe it can make our country more important.

US FAS HIO N MP CA

Sibusiso 2nd year UJ Fashion Student

Azile 1st year UJ Fashion Student Why did you take fashion design as a study of choice? Because of the vision, I have . I have a way of taking the ordinary and making it extraordinary. What do you think of the local designers? I think they fail to think out of the box when it comes to male clothing. Who’s your style icon? David Tlale because his style is unique in a crazy way . He basically takes you to his own world through his clothing. Why do you think the government doesn’t invest in fashion as much as they do with sports? I think it’s mainly because they think it’s a stupid thing and nothing’s hard about it because all we do is just “sew clothes”. What difference do you think you’re going make in the fashion industry? I’m going to bring my own uniqueness into people’s worlds and transport them into mine through my designs.

Why did you take fashion design as your study of choice? Fashion was never my choice of study .It was something that I was forced into but miraculously found myself falling madly in love with. What is your opinion on local fashion designers? I think they are hard to take serious because they don’t get the exposure they deserve. They are very talented but aren’t given enough room to spread their wings. What is one item or trend that is considered in fashion but you wish wasn’t? I’d say colour blocking but people don’t do it as much anymore even though there still are a small number of those who don’t want to let go of it. What difference do you think you’re going to make in this industry? I want to inspire straight men to also get into fashion because they think that sewing machines are for women only . I just want to break the stereo type of that only gay men and women can succeed in fashion. Why do you think the government doesn’t invest as much into fashion as they do with sports? Because they don’t believe in it. They basically think it’s stupid and a walk in a park. AFJ.

the

about by Ovayo Matshikwe When you wake up, ask yourself this... “when I get dressed do I put any thought into what I wear?”

truth fashion

How you dress, I’ve learnt, determines how people interact and communicate with you.

As young as I may be If not, maybe it’s time you I have come to know should. Consider why you a fashion truth: a wellbother with clothes. Do they dressed individual is more make you feel good, are approachable than one you making an impression or who isn’t. People are a statement? naturally attracted to a conscious dresser. What some people don’t fashiontruth#1 seem to realise is that clothing is important. It is the book cover upon which other people read you. It’s often by surface impressions that you read others as From my own conversations well. with males, I have noted These are first and often there are few things more recurring impressions. Our dreaded than the lady who clothing is a major part of cannot coordinate her own these impressions. It is the wardrobe. Good readings unspoken conversation that are seldom made from we have with other people; these encounters. the identity they form of you. What amazes is that female fashion is reasonably priced. There are countless clothing stores where stylish bargains can be found. And being a passionate student of clothing I fail to understand why some individuals let themselves go like that. Fashion has never been about expensive

clothing labels or overpriced boutiques. You must remember that fashion is an experience. The experience is when your clothes make you feel more confident, when they bring out the beauty inside. Try shopping for stylish bargains on the city streets and online stores; you’ll be delighted at the savings and

A WELL DRESSED INDIVIDUAL IS MORE APPROACHABLE

it is the unspoken conversation that we have with other people

styles. These people with the most confidence make an effort when dressing. They look good and positivity surrounds them. You don’t have to take my word for it. See for yourself. Wear something different. Take a risk. Go crazy with your outfit and turn a few heads. Go ahead and wear a wedding dress to work. I promise you, the reception you will receive will amaze you. I’m speaking from experience. AFJ.

herstory Nonhlanhla Ngwenya 072 041 3810 nonhlanhlangwenya53@yahoo.com

ABEN

NATHI

NODADA by Ngawethu ka Siphiwo

would always watch fashion show and it aired on VUZU. channels and the SA beauty I also appeared on Ftv and pageants. I entered a lot of last but not least, last year competitions that I saw in I did the SA fashion week magazines and on TV. which still today I feel itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a big deal and a great Q: What did you participate accomplishment. in when you decided that Modelling was what you Q: What are your wanted to do ? thoughts with regards to the modelling industry? When I was 18 I entered the elite model search SA With everything said, the and I made top 20 in the modelling industry is no walk country, this was in 2009 in the park...it is hard work, but unfortunately I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a brutal and rough industry, make the cut. I also did a if you want to be a model shoot with Sesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;khona, did you have to be strong and the Richard Branson fashion patient. This industry is full

Q: Describe yourself and how you were growing up? Abenathi is a young lady originally from the Eastern Cape. I was a very quiet and reserved child but later I discovered that I had been hiding in a shell for a very long time. That personality was not who I was, I realised that it was because I was lacking confidence as a result of being teased for being taller than my peers. Q: When did you discover your love for modelling? I have always had the love for modelling from a young age, I started with modelling at the age of 15 with an agent in East London called Just models. I loved the industry and

of scam artist and people looking to take advantage of you and so you also have to be careful and aware who you associate yourself with. In life we all know that there is nothing far more important than education, without that you can’t make it anywhere it’s always good to have something to fall back on because this industry is not guaranteed and so you can’t really know if you’ll make it or not,

it’s really just about taking chances.

the modelling industry is no walk in the park... it is hard work

With support you can literally do and be anything you want to be, I’m lucky because I have a supportive family at first they never understood but from just seeing how much I love doing this, they became more interested and want to learn more about what I was doing... I am very lucky to have such an amazing support system. Friends and family support is really important with anything that you do! I am Abenathi Nodada… rising star…the streets are my ramp. AFJ.

shine* by Inga Magwentshu

Image might not be everything but, it says a lot about you. It sets up certain impressions to colleagues, clients, managers, friends and family. You are a brand; the sum of what you want to be perceived and the existing perceptions others have of you. The question you must ask yourself now; is your current image making or breaking your brand? It is killing your career or social life?

Here are a few points to ponder… What do you want your image to say about you? Identify what your desired image looks like and the message you want to send

to the people around you. It could be about confidence, success, high self-esteem or happiness. You might want to project to the world that you’re an organised person.

indicates that you need a revamp.

Whatever it is, you need to gear your image towards that.

the difference of your current image and your desired future image, it’s time to make some changes. It be minor or major changes, do not be afraid and always remember the end goal of this exercise, is to make yourself a positive shining brand.

What is the difference between your current image and what you’d like it to be? Make an assessment as to what you need to change up or down. Looking at your current image; is there anything that you feel does not reflect what you want to achieve? Get rid of it. Anything that complements the image you want to achieve, keep it. Once you have completed this exercise you should have a clear understanding of where you stand with your image. Quite simply, the more items you have that do not complement or fit in to your desired future image

Make your Image to shine Now that you understand

“The quality of your work, your attitude and your image are important factors in any profession and lifestyle. Take care of your image to ensure it does not overshadow your talents”

AFJ.

ctn studios Chris Tukishi Nkgoeng 078 1250 176 072 7734 403 011 0515 622 SERVICES : Film Production, Model Profile, Portraits, Pageants, Video Editing,

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abo.solanga@webmail.co.za

sivuyilegiba, the stylist.

by Kaya Nwelo

Sivuyile Giba is a radiant, free spirited soul who has worked hard to get where she is today. She eats, breaths and lives fashion...

“I am an introverted in self well being. I want have an interesting stylish persona in everything I do. I am lovable in many ways, I am the bearer of nature, the center of truth. I am interested in Art, life, the beauty of culture, conceptual fashion,

Magazine as an assistant stylist. Giant Films as a stylist & producer. I also worked as a visual merchandiser and assistant manager at the Western Cape. I mostly produce my own work, for photo shoots and stills for a pictorial book that I am working on. I have worked on music videos for the likes of Khanyisa Mavi, Driemanskaap and Nomfusi. Some of these and others have been screened on Channel O.”

animation, nature and self

Wherever she goes, she makes

sure she leaves a trail behind

Although Sivu obtained her

her. Born and bred in East

Diploma in MS International

London, in the Eastern Cape,

Marketing Management

with three brothers and a sister,

from the Natal Technikon,

Sivu showed at a tender age

she did not let go of the

that life would revolve around

fashion dream she had. She

fashion. She describes herself

is now based in Cape Town

as a generally easy going and

working as a fashion stylist

carries a positive vibe with her

and a fashion writer. Not to

all the time. She totally loves

be held back, Sivu is also an

the adventure of the natural

aspiring business woman. She

life style. Sivu enjoys being in

has her sights set on being a

a good space with exciting

gallery owner. She is currently

people.

the CEO of Urban Peacock which she started in January

OneSmallSeed and Chew

spiritual person… I believe Lola’s Closet Boutique here in

love”.

she is full of energy and eager to achieve a whole lot in her life...

“I have worked at

2008, a production company that specializes in events, music videos, photo shoots, feature films, documentaries and educational training workshops.

Sivu also has the added experience of having coowned a store for a year which though they parted ways at the end was a growth opportunity she would not take away. She is full of energy and eager to achieve a whole lot in her life, as a fashion stylist and just about anything within fashion. She plans to make a large success of her Production Company, while also opening up various resource centers in the Eastern Cape rural areas. Sivu believes that Fashion is a form of expression and also it is a representation of how you like to present yourself. This young stylist is full of ideas, ambitious and believes in everything she does.

AFJ.

the

septemberange

modelling agency

Tsebo Kotlolo & Motlou graphic designer : Tumi Photographer : Chris 072 3907 378 072 2916 265 info@septemberange.co.za •

Model Branding

•

Professional Training

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Model Portfolios

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Representation (cast models from 18+)

THE AIM OF THE AGENCY is to promote and uplift the idea of modelling as a

career in the area of Midrand (Jhb) and surrounding towns. CURRENT PROJECT : Norm2Glam is a T.V show about modelling, grooming

models through step by step training. Incorporated with Septemberange and broadcast on MTTV.

YOU WANT to

SO,

by TheDisgruntledDesigner or studying something else. Let me get this straight… now that you’ve passed matric and since you can put an outfit together you’ve finally decided to become a fashion designer. Well allow me to burst your bubble. To be a designer you have to be an artist and an innovator. Designers create something from nothing, big things from small ideas. Not everyone can do that. If you copy designs from magazines then you’re not a designer. Granted you’re a very good copycat or fake. There, I said it. Sue me. And then you have the pop-designers, who think a home-made tee and tasteful dressing makes them designers. Brushing my teeth doesn’t make me a dentist. Designers answer a calling. They love what they do, which is vital to make it in any industry. I have seen a lot of these fake designers giving up in their first years, resorting to retail stores, being cashiers

All because they could not crack it in the industry. That’s because it’s bloody hard being a designer. This is not a place for chancers. The spineless lackeys who waste time, energy and money chasing distractions. Again some of you will say I talk a lot of steaming dung. You are entitled to your opinion; you also have the right to keep it to yourself. It’s a free country after all. To make it in this industry you need patience, passion, commitment and dedication. Fashion is not for the faint of heart. It is not about glitz, fame, riches or even the televised glam. It is about being an artist. If you have that as your foundation then everything will fall into place. As a designer you see things differently. Artists are born and not made. Yes you can be taught at an institute to be a designer, but that guarantees nothing in this industry. I have met selftaught designers and they have no formal clothing production training.

Be a DESIGN

With some tuning and perfecting, their craft will not show any lack of training. In fashion there are many fields to get into, but not all of us can be designers. Before you decide you want to be a designer make sure it is what you really want. Keep your eyes open. What is shown on television is not what you get in the fashion industry, in reality you get those people that will support you and those who will exploit you. They’ll herd you into bad situations and feed you cow dung (while they get rich). Not everyone in this industry has your best interest at heart. Don’t get fooled by the promises, lights and glam. Let me introduce you to the; The fashionistas; these good hearted souls will support you no matter what, only if you keep producing original and unique garments. Always be 10 steps ahead and do not follow trends, but take note what is out there and incorporate it into your own style. Socialites always attend functions, so

NER?

you have to pull a rabbit out a hat every time they commission a garment. If it was not for such people we would not have jobs or studios. And what is great about them is that they bring repeat business and they bring you new clients. So you should always be on top of your game. But they can make or break you. The vultures; look out for these wankers (pardon my German). They target talented designers right out of colleges promising them the earth and stars. They will promise to make you a household name only to suck you dry (like the leeches they are) and discard you once they are done. These vultures do not have a creative bone in their body, but have start -up capital to open a studio or fashion house. I wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mention any fashion brands or boutiques by name, but you just thought of at least one. They start by recruiting clueless design students to work for them. I do not blame these naĂŻve youngstersâ&#x20AC;Ś we all want to be well known and travel

the world, but the only place you will be travelling to is the taxi rank to catch a minibus home. These leeches take all the credit and glory. The real designer goes without mention and honest pay. Instead they drive the latest executive sedans while their sweating teams are slaving away in the boot. Money does not make you a designer. Owning a studio and slaves earns fakers no stripes. Not all of us can own studios, some of us have to be seamstresses and pattern drafters for someone else. I cannot dispute that. Just know your worth. Lots of designers I know are cowards because they are scared to take risks. They will settle for that 5 or 6k a month. For them it is enough that they are known in their community and are afraid to branch outside their comfort zone. Do not become one of these designers. If you are really considering joining this industry be sure of it. We do not want you to waste our time and space. We are very sensitive and competitive. Be warned it might take you a year or ten years to make an impact in this industry; it all depends on how hungry and driven

you are. And it might depend in which province you are in. I do not want to name them but they are partially to blame for killing a lot of fashion businesses/ dreams. I will give you a hint, the province starts with the letter E! These so-called officials are trusted to help you grow your brand, but instead they take a hot crap over your dreams. If you are in this province then you better get out while you still can. I remind you again that this industry is not about glitz and glam; it is about hard work, blood and sweat. Oh yes, you do not have to be gay to be a great designer. That is just a myth. There are a lot of fields in this industry; you do not have to be a fashion designer. I might sound like a bitter person, well that is because I am. So I ask you again, do you really want to be a designer? If I was you I would think twice about it, you might have dreams of being the next Marc Jacobs or David Tlale, well give it a try but remember that they worked really hard to be where they are today. Hope I did not just piss all over your dreams. AFJ.

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chic

LOW BUDGET by Kaya Nqwelo

The earth without grass would be a naked place...

Much like people without clothes. Of course it would make for an interesting world but, just as grass warms the cold ground… clothes ought to warm us as well. Literally and figuratively. With this economic situation and interest rates rising, buying habits are negatively affected. It almost seems impossible to buy expensive Gucci handbags and Coco Chanels. These days people worry about not having enough money or any at all. But then I look around me and am struck by the realisation that although people have had more bad money days than bad hair days, they still look so put together. I see fashion lovers oozing personal style without falling into the t-shirt and jeans stereotype

that seems to be a classic Don’t be afraid to bargain throwback for the flat-broke hunt, after all not even a fashionista. single soul cares to notice that you bought your item If you are cashless and still at a bargain store. Believe wondering how others do me cheap clothes can be it, you don’t have to crack just as chic, and that totally your skull over-thinking it. depends on your creativity. So select your items It’s not just about where carefully. you shop, that can be problematic. What matters is whether the item of clothing you bought suits you or is trendy. Even bargain stores can offer something good. This is why it is important to always have a keen eye for detail. You don’t have to change your favorite shops. Just be willing to add more to your list.

Look out for season-end and clearance sales. Even in the darkest discount store you will find something exquisite.

I see fashion lovers oozing personal style without falling into the t-shirt and jeans stereotype that seems to be a classic throwback for the flat-broke fashionista.

images sourced from www.zando.com , www.marieclaire.com , www.2bstores.com

If you are looking for quality,

expensive things with their

cautiously. Spend more on

keep reminding yourself that you’re on a low budget and start with what you need more than impulsive desires.

folk’s money and then ruining those very same items. Many other cliques or groups have formed with a similar idea in their heads. I’m not sure as to the motivations behind this, I still ask myself today. Some days this seems like an extreme take to the average person’s peculiar disregard for their own clothes. The problem with impulse purchases on items we desire is that these clothes soon go the way of Christmas gifts and toys. We stuff them in a box at the back of the cupboard, so why bother with buying things you want? Especially when you can’t afford it. Rather buy something you need. I’m not saying don’t spoil yourself, but I just do it

what you will wear because buying something that you going to hang on your closet makes no financial sense. You really don’t have to pay an arm and leg to be fashionable. Anyone can achieve style while still saving money and have heads turn as well. Trends change every second so following each one tends to be costly. Rather focus on defining your own individual style than being a duplicate of fashion magazines. Altering and mending old clothes from the thrift store can be great fun if you like sewing. You should try that sometimes, it works for other people.

There’s nothing wrong with being on a low budget, almost everyone gets to this place. Remember to look fabulous no matter how cheap your chic style. It is all about being careful not to over spend or misuse money. As Will Smith once said people buy things they don’t want and spend money they don’t have to just to impress people they don’t even like let lone care about. This is the prevailing trend nowadays with the ‘zikhothane buying

AFJ.

start what cannot be stopped light fires that shanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be put ou

be the voice that will not be silenced be the hand that cannot be bound. www.freeriddim.co.za