Marques/Almeida PR Campaign by Ilona Angelova

P I TC H D O C U M E N T MARQUES / ALMEIDA PR CAMPAIGN AUTUMN/WINTER 2014

London College of Fashion BA Hons Fashion PR Year 1 June 2013 Ilona Angelova

Contents Introduction 1. PR and communications audit - analysis on the current image of the brand 2. SWOT analysis - key PR issues and opportunities 3. Consumer and Competitor analysis 4. Concept proposal 5. Campaign goals 8. Campaign key messages 9. Tactics and platforms to be delivered according to targer audience, brand’s identity and positioning 10. Media list and pitched ideas Conclusion

A LETTER This pitch document proposes a PR campaign to launch Marques’Almeida Autumn/Winter 2014 collection.

It starts with analysis on the identity of the brand, its ideal consumer and competitors; followed by concept proposal, key goals, messages and tactics.

Each piece is written in style, which aims to demonstrate relations between the brand’s identity and the vision of the campaign. It often refers to thoughts of different influencers in the fashion industry, press articles and interviews.

It believes that it provides the reader with beautiful and simple layout, which was inspired by the authenticity of Marques’Almeida.

With personal touch, I would like to say that I have translated Maruqes’Almeida’s identity as I felt it from my research.

I hope my journey is found intersting.

I have also written a conclusion to reflect on the results and have tried to identify the weaknesses of the campaign.

Ilona Angelova, BA Fashion Public Relations Year 1, LCF Spring, 2014

Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida found their fashion label in 2011 with the clear vision that “fashion is about attitude, not hemlines”- Helmut Lang. Their MA graduation collection from Central Saint Martins was entirely dedicated to the symbol of the new generation - denim. Lulu Kennedy, founder of Fashion East, expresses her excitiment about the designers saying: “Marques’Almeida feels so fresh and brave, I absolutely love them for doing their thing.. and I think is going to be massive”.

In search for the “youth code”, Marques and Almeida design for a market that desires sartorial instincts with an authentic edge. Their desirable girl is “raw, effortless, quietly defiant and cool”.

Introduction

It is the attitude of a random “unfashionable” girl on the streets of London that inspires the designers. The first couple of seasons their inspiration turns around the same topic of the anti-glamourous 1990s and early 2000s. This drives them to create wearable and desirable clothes that are fresh, young and empowering, using their personal approach to design, rather then following trend forecasts.

by Ilona Angelova

To reflect this idea, Marques and Almeida use the rawest and the most basic denim possible, being extremely innovative with its use of design.

Officially on schedule for LFW since spring/summer 2013, as awarded NEWGEN sponsorship by the British Fashion Council and Topshop. Maruqes’Almeida’s stockists are now spread across London, Milan, New York, Los Angeles, Portland, Hong Kong, South Korea, Russia and Australia and amid their buyers are Opening Ceremony, Sprezzatura, Kuznetsjy Most 20 and others niche and authentic concept stores.

Opening Ceremony describes the brand as it “…stands out against pretty much 99% of what’s on offer from designers everywhere else so far. Brave and brilliant.”

Marques’Almeida have also been recently nominated for the Emerging Talent - Womenswear Award at the British Fashion Awards 2013.

1.

Chapter 1 Brand identity, image and messaging

by Ilona Angelova

Denim The Notion of Youth

“Fashion is about attitude, not hemlines” - Helmut Lang. Most of M’A’s press coverage includes this quote, also a literal extract from the designer’s biography, which can be found on their website. What has been said about the designers is not enough interviews with them on interesting topics about their vision and interesets are suggested.

Marques’Almeida needs to improve its brand content.

Interesing thing would be writing small stories on daily bases accompanaied by images.

says something, which illustrates how the vision of the designers is translated into the fabrics they use: “Because of this “youth code” we wanted the most basic denim possible”. They describe it as a detachment from the whole sense of “glamour in fashion”.

The designers do not persuade fantasy, things to be real is important for them.

About their desirable consumer, Marques says that they want to work for a younger and cooler customer, rather then going completely The couple has started mainstream. For example this is reflected building the brand’s DNA by discovering the in the designers’ choice essential ingredients of of models. As Marques “youth code”. As they says: “Designers pay a lot of attention to if the describe it it involves model is super tall, essence of vitality, super skinny and we rebellion and tomorrow’s generation. just pay attention to whether she is cool, the As Marques says they high does not matter” - fashion is about the choose denim attitude. because it can be worked in many ways, but moreover it is also Marques describe their girl as “raw, effortless, unusual for a high-end brand, or even quietly defiant and cool” (ELLE by Erin a graduate student to Donnelly). do a whole collection in denim. Almeida also

Some random girl taken from the street of London. The designer say that the city inspires them in a very effortless way, “mainly by walking around”.

DazedDigital by Sue-Wen Quek In their mind youth might evoke a moody teenage girl, who has abundance of attitude and petulance. The “classic” teenager, ‘who is moody, grumpy, secretive and fun’. This drives them to create wearable and desirable clothes, that are fresh and young. The obsession with the “youth code”, which they have found on the pages of old issues of The Face and i-D magazine.

In the interview they recall that the magazine were full of people in jeans, white t-shirts and leather.

really moody girl, who is she, what is the mood, what would she wear, what is she doing, what kind of imagery are we looking at?”

For blendbureaux.com Marques and Almeida also say that they respond a lot more to images in terms of inspiration than they do to music. It is not necessary this “grungy Nirvana thing”, which is seen in the music for their catwalk shows. For example: Sonic Youth or Dominique Young Unique, as well as girly hip hop in the first show.

However, for style.com and Alexis Brunswick the duo say that they started by exploring through the lenses of i-D magazine and Kurt Cobain, “the whole grunge movement and watching Nirvana documentaries”, but they say that they Marques and Almeida do not abandoned the era once the grunge became a trend. They find their inspiration in often speak about their oblooking at the latest trends. session with the 90s when it As the designers say for Dazed the street is their main was like the code of dressing always “had involved a really source of ideas. As they nice worn-out pair of jeans or describe it as a bit more personal than trend-oriented. a jean jacket. We thought it was foundation of cool.”

What does matter for the designers are the Their designs and message is personalities, which allow quite consistent, because as them to design their collecthe designers say they often tions based on the idea of the research around the same mood. The questions they ask themes and respond themselves before designing a invariably to the same kind collection are “ We’ve got this of vibe and the same kind of

a girl. Their aim is to make “sensual” clothes for girls in a strong way. The Autumn/ Winter 14 collection is a great opportunity for the designers to show their growth, which is reflected by their inspiration and the increase of the awareness around the brand.

On the blog of Opening Ceremony their girl of the 1990s is described as free-spirited, young, romantic and natural. This ideal is also visually expressed thorugh their concept shoots.

B o n Ma g a z i n e

Sophia Aerts

Photography

The effect of the light on the pictires is inspiration for the concept shoot I will propose for Autumn/Winter 2014. It fits the concept of free-spirited, growing up girl, in way it will give a reference of destroyed images from an old film camera, put together with the contemporary representation of youth. This effect gives good sense of nostalgia. It is very important to show the balance between past and present in the designers’ work.

Visual Essay Autumn/Winter 2011 Graduation collection // Concept shoot

Marques / Almeida

Autumn/Winter 2013 “the mood is much darker”

For i-D online Marques and Almeida say that Autumn 2013 collection was inspired

by Angela Hill’s images of the model Sylvia Mann. She photographs her when she is around 12 or 13 years old. The mood of the pictures is simply described by the designers as “a teenage girl walking around with a backpack in the woods.” They imagine the woods as weirds and polluted. The idea is all about this suburban woods context.

The toxic yellow in the collection comes from the idea of polluted nature, which also gives darker vibe of the woods and the girl who walks alone.

Concept shoot for AW 12/13 is shot by Marques and styled by Almeida. The model is Sofia - Marques’ younger sister.

Marques describes her as the classical teenager: “moody, grumpy, secretive and fun”.

The girl is their biggest inspiration and muse of the collections. The designer says that “ she is breath of fresh air” , because she is completely unrelated to fashion and everything she does with them is completely unique. The shoot, the concept and the girl are the perfect representation of reality and authenticity which M’A are trying to translate into their designs and therefore their consumers.

The concept shoot for this collection, as well as the rest of the visuals have a strong inspiration from the 90s’ imagery and visual aesthetics, which I refer to the raw signatures of photopgraphers such as Corrine Day and Juergen Teller.

Marques / Almeida concept shoot Autumn/Winter2013 model: Sofia photography: Marta Marques styling: Paulo Almeida

Masha Mel Photographer Masha Mel is a young creative, working mainly with film and analogue photography. She is originally from Russia, but comes to live and study at UAL in London. Her work has been featured in Pigeons and Peacocks issue 5 and she has also worked for magazines such as Vice Style, “N0-ONE” and ILOVEFAKE. (www.1883magazine.com) Dorrell Merritt from 1883magazine desbribes her work as full of femininity, freedom and “lo-fi charm”. Mel works with stylist Tess Yopp another young talent from London - who is also Marques’Alemida consumer. Mel has also worked with David Motta and Paul Joyce. For this interview the photographer also shares thoughts about her constant desire for new places and exploration. Her inspiration comes from the places she visits and she is in constant search for new ideas.

On the question what film she uses, Mel answers “the cheapest the better”, as well as she prefers to use her friends as models than the “pretty models” from the Russian agency. The rawness and effortlessness of her work fits perfectly the identity of Maruqrs and Almeida’s brand. Also the fact that they work with new and young creatives gives the opportunity to base the goals of the campaign on association with the new generation of creatives in London.

Masha Mel for Marques /Almeida

Autumn/Winter 2014 illustartes a significant growth in Marques’Almeida’s design signiture, use of fabrics and new inspiration.

Accoring to i-D online, Marques and Almeida have been looking at the early Seventies rock and roll scene - Patti Smith , the book Just Kinds, Smuth’s partner artist and photographer Robert Mapplethorpe and rock and blues singer Janis Joplin. The collection tells the daydream story of the different and brave girl, whos aim is to be “anyone else but herself”.

Anders Christian Madnes from showstudio.com describes the collection as “defiant independence as inspired by struggling, free-spirited minds and artists”. Referencing the early life of Patti Smith speaks about looking at growing up individuals, who build their identities and ideas about who they want to be.

Simultaneously, having the core idea about being free, doing what they love the most and being rebellion as just kids.

Chioma Nnadi for vogue.co.uk says that Chelsea Hotel inspiration is about the late sixties/early seventies bohemian milieu. “Imbued with the nostalgia of the hotel’s heyday got the designers thinking about incorporating fantasy and glamour into their signature aesthetics” (insideout.topshop.com)

those without a strong eye rocket a bright red lips instead.

“It is more gritty and grainy, like the designers’ frayed denim”.

This collection is also an exploration of new territories, having in mind that the designers have always been playing with the concept around the nineties and noughties.

Tomorrow’s world So long my love

However, the girl is still the same ideal profile of “ raw, effortless and quietly defiant”.

Implementation of the catwalk show insideout.topshop.com The look:

Team:

Hairstylist Duffy for Vidal Sasson: “I’ve called the look for this day ‘night bus hair’ - greasy roots and loads of texture, the main inspiration is This idea is also seen in the a picture of Janis Joplin - her use of new fabrics as satin and rawness and effortlessness but fur. It places denim as more seen in a modernised AW14 sophisticated and approprilook.” ate for evening wear and lifts the designers’ work on a new Terry Barber is the make-up level. artist. He gives the models 80s-inspired eyes in bright reds, blues and yellows and

Music: Warpaint - Undertow On and Amp (Original Mix) - Mutant Clan

Where: Topshop Showspace at Tate Modern’s iconic Turbine Hall, just hours before Simone Rocha Front row: Ex-Opening Ceremony buyer and creative consultant Kate Foley Fashion consultant Jasmine Sewell Fashion editor of Independent - Alexandra Fury Fashion editor at British Vogue-Francesca Burns Market editor - Vogue, CondeNast - Emma Elwick-Bates

FACEBOOK. Marques/Almeida’s Facebook page is used by the brand in a good way.

Its main aim is to promote their designs, link to their online shop and Opening Ceremony, show images of their consumers, press coverage, share personal daily experiences and promote work by people they have collaborated with.

However, from a PR’s point of view the brand needs to make itself clearer in relation to why do they find the fact that Rita Ora’s is wearing their pieces for ‘cool’?

Interesting ascpects of her personality are used on the posts. This keeps consistent message about the designers’ biggrst inspiration - the attitude.

TWITTER. On other hand, Marques/Almeida’s twitter is used good just because it mainly re-tweeds posts by other fashion influencers. It promotes the brand using quick messages by different people in the fashion industry. It is a good way to create the brand’s perception in consumers’ minds.

The re-tweets include

names such as Kathryn Lo (A.I. PR); Yasmin Sewell, Francesca Burns, Katy Katazome (WGSN-denim editor) and many more.

featured in publications such as Dazed, the features are often far more focused on highlighting the brand personality. Whilst there is always mention of the The campaign will keep brand’s designs of course, the same use of the brand’s they do a much better job at twitter account, because giving the reader a it is considered as a good better understanding of the online space for spreading brand’s identity. across quick opinion forming messages.

For example, an article which Dazed published online and on print is they PRESS. acknowledged the brands 90s nostalgia If the brand is going to quality and asked Marques reach out to this young and edgy girl, it is going to to reveal three of the have to target publications brand’s current inspirations which included music, like i-D and Dazed. The truth is that the majority of quotes and their favourite models. their readers do not have the right budget to afford them. Tha campaign needs The personal touch of this magazines such as Vogue kind of article works well and ELLE, which generate to engage the reader and make them feel sales. However, the emotionally attached message should be that the denim is not a trend, to the brand. Ideally, “Marques’Almeida” should it is an uniform. try to focus on getting more Whilst it’s an understanda- coverage along these lines. ble angle for journalists to pick up on since the brand However, the analysis on is so young, it is considered press coverage identifies that it is important that the lack of mesages engaging brand try and move away the consumer with from the“up and coming” designers’Portuguese roots. title and really try to get coverage that gets across the brands personality rather than just focusing on the fact that it’s a new brand.

When the brand gets

Social Media Concept Proposal

by Ilona Angelova

The social media campaign would identify how to use each social media platform in a unique way. Each of them has different type of users or one user has many accounts, but goes on them for different reasons.

The information section on every account will be updated and will state what the profile is about and in what way it says the story of the brand, it will also have a theme. The idea is to give a reason for the people to visit the page and to look up the collection. It should be fresh and engaging.

- Sharing small stories and quotes from daily bases.

- More visuals taken by creative people around them. It will involve interns, students in graphic design and illustration, or photographers.

However, the campaign understands the importance of social media presence around the collection and it will aim to engage and inform its consumers about the happenings around its launching on the different platforms, basing its posts on the what has been said above.

It will focus on images, videos and engaging captions around the collection and the catwalk show.

Chapter 2 SWOT ANALYSIS MARQUES / ALMEIDA

Contributed Rebecca Knight, Ilona Angelova and Olivia Pometsey

Strengths

1. “ as consumers we shop the same kind of different things, a jumper with cut out label can be from many different brands” - strong advantage of M’A, which product is unique and authentic. If you know the brand, you will know it is them. If you haven’t heard if it, you will ask “who is this? - it looks so different.”

2. According to James Curling (CEO Levi’s) there are three things happening on the denim market: 1. Nostalgia - customization, 2. Novelty and 3. The evolution and innovation - the fabric and use of denim as well as changing perception about being used as a formal wear. - It could be said that the brand of Marques and Almeida embodied those three points in their designs, aesthetics and vision for the future of the brand.

3. it is environmentally friendly - denim - classic, durable and the message is that we believe that the designers create clothes, which are so unique, that they are not something people would think of throwing away - they would keep it even if not worn for a season 4. NEWGEN and Topshop are the sponsors - financial support, catwalks’ opportunities, as well as a big opportunity for press, influencers and increasing the awareness around the brand

10. Stocked by Opening Ceremony, a store renowned for stocking unique and niche brands.

11. Nominated for the LVMH Prize, helping to gain press coverage/public awareness and if they win they will receive 300,000 Euros and a year’s worth of business support from LVMH. 12. Designs are endorsed by celebrities creating more brand awareness.

13. Endorsed by respected fashion publications such as Vogue and Elle as well as more niche publications such as Dazed & Confused.

14. Recently opened an online shop which makes the clothing more accessible to a wider market - unique in a way it offers only limited edition pieces 15. The brand manages their own PR outside of the Fashion Week schedule, therefor they can almost completely control what press coverage they get and which influencers wear their garments, helping to create a more defined identity for the brand.

5. Very good conveyed message of brand’s identity to the public. Well maintained image of the raw, effortless and free-spirited girl, which reflects in consistant designs, visual arsthetics and communicaiton use.

6. Very focused and specific consumer profile 7. Location-London – helps distinguish them in an industry filled with up and coming brand 8. Tumblr page is quite strong. Clear theme – only blog/reblog fashion pictures with a youthful and edgy feel to them. Pictures are getting 150+ notes which suggests people are aware of the brand and appreciate it’s aesthetics regardless of whether they buy into it or not.

9. Twitter presence seems strong – very active and interactive. 1,477 is a decent amount of followers for an up and coming brand. Followed by Vogue and ELLE which is always a good sign as those magazines are seen as very aspirational – ELLE recently tweeted about them, will get noticed a lot more

Masha Mel Photography

1. The brand does not have enough good visual and written content - the biography is copied everywhere - need re-writing 2. Not enough meaningful and intesting online content, as well as on online publications 3. The brand has more stockists worldwide, than in London, where they are based - on competitors’ base this is a weakness in terms of getting to the young creatives in London.

4. No information on brand’s manifacturers, fabrics use and sustainability issues 5. Simple google search comes back with a lot of articles based on the brand or interviews with the designers, but social media outlets do not appear until the bottom of the page – may deter some people if the brand isn’t accessible 6. Although Tumblr page seems to be doing well - IT NEEDS AN INTERESTNG THEME, TO BE DIFFERENT THEN INSTAGRAM AND ENGAGE WITH INSPIRING CONTENT, as well as they do not post enough.

Weaknesses

7. Social media platforms are weak: often all accounts are synced so identical content is posted to each account giving users no incentive to follow all of them. The brands voice on these platforms is also far too cheesy and doesn’t align with their target consumer.

8. They do have a small target market, admitted this in an interview with Interview Magazine, “"We want to work for a younger customer and cooler customer," Almeida drawls in his heavy accent. "Rather than going completely mainstream," adds Marques, "Maybe that is going to leave us at the bottom of that pile, but there are lots of different ways to do it in this industry." (http://www.interviewmagazine.com/fashion/ marques-almeida) - must gain revenue to afford to keep the brand going, and to show they are a brand to buy into, can be hard when your style is so niche. Although this was considered as a strenght, it is also a weakness in relation to be harder to build a strong niche consumer database.

9. Limited budget 10. Target market is very niche and seems confused.

11. Only has physical retail outlets in New York, Los Angeles, London and Tokyo (Opening Ceremony) which makes it difficult for consumers to purchase.

Threats 1. There are so many new, innovated designers coming around each day, it’s easy to be overlooked for something newer and more cutting edge 2. More stockists outside London - USA, JAPAN, CHINA, RUSSIA, AUSTRALIA and SWEDEN, than in the city they are based in, as well as no stockist in Portugal - moving away from their roots. Buyers’ offers come themselves after the promotion days, however the interest outside London is a good thing, but the campaign would keep them in UK, so this could be considered as a threath for their consumers worldwide.

3. Very specific product - people might think the brand has no chances for further development of their designs 4. Well established denim brands, heritage behind the brands, they have their classics - M’A’s consumer would wear them.

5. Danger of mainstream brands to start copying their design aesthetics 6. Although exposure in magazines is good, the brand has been featured in magazines such as Look and Grazia which are too mainstream for how the brand wants to be perceived.

7. Although it also works as a strength, the fact they are only stocked by Opening Ceremony presents a risk because if Opening Ceremony no longer wished to stock their products, they would have no physical retail outlets.

8. If they are geared towards a younger market, their products are likely to be too expensive for this consumer to afford so potential entrants into the market will provide cheaper substitutes.

9. Potential of gaining too much success too quickly: if overexposed the brand could suffer and quickly become obsolete.

Opportunities 1. Creating brand content - visual and written - engaging consumers online, as well as pitching the press 2. Association of the brand with young creatives in London - Larger more commercially viable brands may see such a different emerging design as a collaboration opportunity to lift their reputation, they can be associated with something, cool, new, cutting edge and young 3. London- being in the centre of creativity 4. New ways of wearing denim as evening wear- building sophistication in the designs 5. Autumn/Winter 2014 collection - new approach, new inspiration - opportunity for strong messages that the brand is growing up and move forward from the “up and coming�

6. To speak about fabric use, manifacturers, sustainability and quality of the products - attracting consumers, as well as buyers !

7. The images used on Tumblr are popular and what a lot of people seem to be re-blogging – need to take advantage of that and be more active to build their presence 8. The brand could consider opening their own independent store where consumers can physically purchase their items in order to overcome the vulnerability of being dependent on Opening Ceremony.

9. Reconsider their target market to ensure they are marketing to the right consumer that has the means to buy their clothing, or, perhaps consider creating a more accessible diffusion line that their ideal target market would be more likely to afford.

Chapter 3 Marques/Almeida

Consumer and Competitor analysis

The following analysis on Marques / Almeida’s consumer puts together research into the brand’s Facebook and Twitter followers, Opening Ceremony in store observation, press coverage and visual analysis of the brand’s imagery.

It aims to focus on this spesific type of desirable consumer, who is “young, effortless, raw and quiete defiant.”

By Ilona Angelova

“ .. a brand with very singular vision and a very specific customer base in mind, responding to their authentic aspirations” A.I. PR press kit

explain the higher prices. It gives M’A the opportunity to be exposed to a niche audience of innovators and early adopters.

designer’s item with a vintage one from a flea market.

Sales consultant at Opening Ceremony simply described for me Marques’Almeida’s consumers as A Opening “ in their middle Ceremony’s twenties, who hardly customer can be can afford the brand described as - young and creative highly individualis- students”. She also tic, non-comformists added “ We all love and with very uniqie Marques’Almeida.” sense of personal style. The Marques explains majority are people that her younger from different sister Sofia is their creative industries, muse, because she is Unfortunately, the who have a completely detached price range makes particular vision and from fashion. It is the brand hardly the need of different the 1990s affordable for a self-expression. anti-fashion and certain number of anti-glamour young girls around The consumers aesthetic of which the world. The are quite selective surrounds the brand. effortless, quiteabout what they buy difiant and natural and how they look, In the contemporary girl the designers because they do not fashion industry, talk about does not buy into ‘anything Marques and necessary have the on the market’ and Almeida translated money to afford they are not fashion designs, which speak the clothes. These trends followers. to very particular thoughts are also The choice of their consumer with the provoked by the clothes is based on need to be diffrent visual their personal unique on the streets, where representation of sense of fashion and more or less M’A’s girl in their they are looking for everyone looks the concept shoots. statement pieces to same. complement their However, the individuality. Those uniqueness of the are people who are designs, the high able to mix and quality of the fabrics match very well

CONSUMER’S MOOD BOARD SOURCE: FACEBOOK PROFILE Marques/ Almeida

Marques/Almeida Opening Ceremony Consumer Competitors Kiko Mizuhara Fanstine Steinmetz the show, according to Tate for OC blog, reflects the brand’s niche, authentic and raw identity. Urban space, “half of the room is dressed head-to-toe in oversized frayed denim” and models who “switch in and out their Citing Alice Tate, a writer for official roles”, which makes it the blog of OC (17.June.2014) impossible to know who is a “crowd at Marques’Almeida model and who is not.

S/S15 Men’s show is young, It creates relax and casual mood, mirroring the brand’s peppered with the odd individualistic approach to middle-age gent, but otherwise we’re averaging 21 fashion and their slouchy with models included.” This designs. quote provokes questions as what is the real Observing OC official age group of people who buy website and blog gives an insight into who is Marques/ into the brand; is the ideal girl of Marques and Almeida, Almeida potential consumer. It speaks with their actual consumer? The price range of their clothing humorous, honest and straight doubts the understanding of forward tone of voice, citing one of the headlines found their market.

However, the atmosphere at on the blog - “Even the most This analysis questions who is Marques’Almeida consumer, basing its points on fashion features online, observation of Opening Ceremony official website and a discussion with the store staff.

famous graffiti artist get arrested - Kenny Scarf.” It is laid-back and cool, provides its consumers with fresh and authentic lifestyle pieces on the work and life of foreign artists, designers, musicians, etc. showing interest in cultural and gender diversity.

OC also does unique collaborations, supporting art and culture. It is about these open-minded and curious consumers, looking for something different to underline their individuality.

Although Marques/Almeida are succeeding with establishing themselves as innovators in the industry, the competition in the creative industry in London is big. London fashion scene has also gained reputation as the capital of the new, young Faustine Steinmetz

and creative generation. New designers, artists, magazines, online platforms, etc. are emerging in the city everyday, which on one hand speaks for great opportunities, but on another makes it harder to get the work to stand out.

“I’ve been inspired by a lot of people but I think I’ve been inspired by a lot of people for who they were. Someone like Jane Birkin, someone like Patti Smith and someone like Mick Jagger… someone like Marianne Faithfull… But I find them inspiring in every possible way.”

Clémence Poésy

Above: G-Star Spring 2012 Clémence Poésy - actress

In a attempt to identify Marques/ Almeida competitors, I will consider some points on which the analysis will be based.

Denim is an authentic fabric and questions what does it make people to choose to wear a jean jacket instead of a cotton or nylon one?

Considering denim as a classic uniform of the rebellious kids of the new generation answers the question and adding the authentic Marques/ Almeida’s contemporary design, equals the formula of their success among other denim brands and leaves them without a direct competitor on the market.

The fashion market is crowded with denim brands, which offer many versions of classic 5-pocket jeans, denim jackets,

dresses, etc - from brands’ with long history and established reputation such as Levi’s, G-star Raw, through brands such as Acne, who has started as jeans brand and grew up as a creative, high-culture associated company, to high-street brands as Topshop Unique, which have a range of denim offerings on affordable prices.

In order to continue, let’s place the focus of the analysis on the denim as the youth code for Marques/ Almeida. The brand has already established its signature pieces - the total oversized frayed denim. Similarly to the well-established brand Levi’s, which has its classical pieces strongly built into the brand’s identity.

However, we should not identify a brand as a competitor only based on the fact it works with denim. Here the questions what will make someone to buy into Levis’ instead of Marques/Almeida and vide versa or she/he would wear both? Is she the east London girl who would wear

vintage Levis’ and Marques’Almeida’s dress? - in this situation the young Portuguese brand wins over.

Comparison between the two brands - based on observation of Levi’s official website.

Levi’s

Marques/Almeida

- English brand - Craftsmanship and durability - -The freshness of Portuguese brand; based in London made in UK - not enough information about where are - Well-known logo - strong red colour made - weak point easy recognisable -young brand - simple logo - white colour - not too - Classic pieces - 501 attention grabbing, reflects the brand’s identity - Wide range of products -Established image of innovative use of denim - Informative and engaging website -Established signature piece - raw oversized frayed - Original denim - Embodying the rebellious lifestyle with edge -Effortless and Quite defiant, not rebellious - Nationalism, tradition, Britishness and nostalgia -Rebel in a way it does not follow trend forecasts - Loyal customers - the rebellious kids -Not enough information about connections to - Wide consumer age group Portuguese culture to their designs -90s inspiration and nostalgia -Young consumers

Levi’s

In conclusion, in order to give answers to the questions above, we need to know who is Marques/Almeida consumer. However, according to the features of Levi’s listed above, the brand has embodied a casual sense of everyday, classic - in almost everyone’s wardrobe, on the street, worn with edge denim. Compared to Maruqes/Almeida who designs for the niche market, for the new generation of innovators, for the effortless and quite defiant girl.

However, it is not excluded this girl wears Levi’s too. I see Marques/Almeida as more special, building this idea of denim worn on special occasions - the uniqueness of the designs allows this to happen and the focus on the consumer and his particular lifestyle.

On a first sign Faustine Steinmetz seems like top Marques/Almeida competitor, because of the visual uniqueness of its designs and use of denim. FS is also located next to Marques/ Almeida at Opening Ceremony store, which directly place them in competition for the consumer.

However, the problem ‘which one to choose’ is solved when the prices on the labels speak up.

FS is a hand-made in England..Steinmentz says that she has always loved to work with her hands, “my vision of

luxury is somebody spending time making something special just for me.” Unique denim pieces created as haute couture. She says in an interview with Mariella Agapion for Twin magazine that “I’m not interested in fashion as such, its not about the silhouette, it is about the actual piece”.

Faustine makes a very good statement about that not only eveningwear should be made with couture techniques.

She explains that if one buys something that costs over $1000, he has to wear it every day. Steinmentz sayas that “neutral and culturally jeans speak more about us than dresses.”

-Born in Paris, MA degree CSM -Young brand -A/W 2014 “ones to watch” by NEWGEN -Unique techniques Steinmetz says she reads a lot lady’s books, e.g. hand-weaving -Luxury and high-end -Handwoven Bouche Mohair -Jacket - $ 2 380; Handwoven Bouche Mohair 501 Jeans $ 2 380.

-Craftsmanship -Rising the use of the denim on a new high level -“Next big thing” by style. com -Engaging website - highlights: -Process video - strong promotion tool -Video look book - AW14 film direction Pierrick

Mouton, stylist: Nina Walbecq -S/S 14 campaign photographer: Sanna Helena Berger, -hastag myfaustinesteinmetz -Press coverage on: Twin magazine Oyster magazine - small piece

by Jerico Mandybur Open Lab magazine - photos

by Nicole Maria Winkler, styled by Georgia Pendlebury Used magazine - photos by Nikola Lamburiv, styled by Hamish Wirgman Drop magazine However, looking for Marques/Almeida’s competitors, Opening Ceremony has recently been promoting its denim pieces.

On the website under top stories stays the headline “Denim revival - we’ve got a cure for those summertime blues.” Among the promoted brands are: - Maruqes/Almeida - Draped Denim Top - $320; 5 Pocket Boot Cut-Jeans - $ 365, 5 Pocket Boyfriend Jeans $390 -Faustine Steinmetz Lea Peckre - not a denim brand - Grenade Denim Dress - $ 830 - unique website, impressive inspirations for the collections and well-communicated through visual, very grabbing, very luxury, authentic and high-end - Patrik Ervell - Medium Stockwash Selvadge Denim $ 290 - Acne Studios - Jeans $180

Chapter 5 Marques/Almeida

Campaign Concept

By Ilona Angelova

The following text puts together thoughs from primary and secondary research into the brand and its surrounding. It has the aim to go logically through the building of the idea behind the campaign. It is mainly created by looking at magazines like i-D, Dazed, Lula, Oak, Interview and many others, as well as Business of fashion Daily digest and online interviews with Marques and Almeida.

It was also inspired by Just Kids by Patti Smith and a dive into the world of music and artist scene in the early seventies New York. The life of Patti Smith and her life partner Robbert Mapplethrophe could be described as real, tough, live of two free sould persuading on thing - to be anyone else, but themselves.

The way they went through life together and their vision of artists is fascinating. The idea of being young, absolutely free, exploring life, facing any type of difficulties and still being committed to their goal, happy and open to the world. This adventures and bold mind of going out there and embracing life.

They were just kids when they met in New York, but their love, trust, supportiveness and the ability to believe and keep going is very inspiring.

Their braveness is the message that the campaign will aim to convey. It will speak to everyone who is a bit of a dreamer, a bit of wanderer, but also to the ones who live their aspirations.

This campaign will speak to the new generation of fashion and art, people who believe they see the world in a different way, as Smith says “ the artist is the one, who see things the rest do not see�.

Aitor Throup - the new appointed Creative consultant of G-star says for BoF that he’s always considered the space and the way things are presented, “I can’t imagine presenting a projecrt or a collection without sensory experience, and creating a world for the work to inhabit in. Very important when you are trying to say a consistant message, it needs a space to exist in.“ This campaign considers this statement as starting point and puts in its core.

The inspiration behind the campaign’s concept was already said above, but it also involves Marta Marques’ younger sister -Sofia - who is the designers’ main inspiration and muse. In the former season they used her as a model for the brand’s concept shoot. It has created a feeling around the brand that it is growing along with Sofia. This focuses the campaign goals on young girls, building their own lives and growing up by embracing the world with their free-spirits.

The aim of the campaign is to make people find their own reference and to inspire them about real small happinesses in life. It is not just about showing “how cool” the brand is, the goal is to translate this bursting of life spirit behind it.

It is about real emotions, real feelings and moods regarding different situations she faces on her way. There comes the rawness, the effortlessness and the being quietly defiant.

We are looking at one new generation, which is free of social opinion.

Chapter 6 1. To define the boundaries of the brand’s very specific public and build a strong relationship with it // To keep the brand niche as it is, but still increase its awareness among like-minded people and find more like them.

The campaign will focus on one type of consumer, the ideal girl who the designers create for. Understanding very good who she is and her needs. Positing her in the consumer group of “innovators” and “early adopters”.

Camg a i g n g o a l s 1,2 and 3

This goal was inspired by an article in BoF by Lawrence Leniham. He speaks about the successful brands are the specialty brands and retailers that are more focused on specific consumer interests, values and aspirations. His idea is more related to brands, which produce products for yogists as it was his example. However, it does say something very important about the importance of knowing a brand’s consumer in general.

Also M’A has very authentic product, which speaks to a very particular individuals - quoting the brand’s press kit: “their trading success comes from the absolutely unique product the brand is presenting to the market. This product is both challenging and desirable and is created with a very singular vision and a very spesific consumer base in mind, responding to their authentic inspiration”.

2. To associate the brand with the new generation of creatives in London and more in particular young girls. The idea is to empower young female creatives, who are brave enough to follow their goals and express individualistic vision through their art.

“The desirable consumer becomes inspiration and a part of the brand’s world.”

In interview in BoF on 25/April/2014 by Dirk Shanden with James Curling, CEO of Levi’s, Curling explains why denim has always been associated with progress, he calls it modern frontier and symbol of the new generation. The strong use of denim by M’A immediately creates the aim of the brand to speak to revolutionary people, people who change conventions and have new ideas about their working fields. Simple reference is the designers’ inspiration - Patti Smith and her artistic, revolutionary approach to music and poetry.

Another reason for this goal is the brand itself by looking at the people it collaborates with, e.g. Alice Goddard - co-editor of Hot and Cool. She is 22-year-old, also one a M’A’s muse, according to i-D online. She was also seen as a model of their SS12 concept shoot. Goddard graduated from Camberwell College of Art and co-runs Hot and Cool. A magazine started as a platform where they and their friends can showcase their work. The magazine has very authentic content, supports young creatives and amid its stockists is DSM. A third reason for this goal is the noticed growing number of young individuals working on their own ideas and persuading own goals in personal and professional development. It is about these young girls, around East London and who are starting to create this trend of “freelance”, innovative and self-driven individual in the creative industries.

Furthermore, many feministic or “only girls” campaigns have been created this spring of 2014, e.g. Dazed has lauched recently a campaign in a collaboration with “only” female film directors. It is worldwide accepeted that girls and women are free to build their own careers, to study, to create and to take a high positions in different companies. However, there are still many things to be change in people’s perceptions about what a woman is supposed to do, how she is supposed to look, and mainly for people to undestand that this has no boundaries.

3. To create more brand content The brand needs visuals and more consistent messaging online. There is so much uncessary information online and on social media. The goal is create a meaningful and interesting content on its social media platforms.

This goal also involves creating more visuals for the brand, as a way to convey a message on the press and social media.

Chapter 7 Campaign Key Messages

By Ilona Angelova

“Building a brand identity is like building young children’s identity - be very selectful about the people around them” “Future of fashion is individuality” “Fashion is about attitude, not a hemlines”

4.3. Sustainability and production - Denim manifacturers - production issues / sustainability /water / factory workers - Recycling and re-using

1. DENIM THE NOTION OF YOUTH - THE NEXT GENERATION - THE FRONTIER 2. The brand is growing up, it is expanding .

With this collection the designers go out of their comfort zone - exploration of new territories - the foundation // the way to grow up - New, expanded signature - Mixing glamour and anti-glamour -Sophistication built into the designs, evening wear 3. The GIRL: Sofia is growing up - having her own space in London in 2013 - The free-spirited, effortless, raw and quite defiant girl is growing up - she is exploring new territories and she has taken a direction in life - she needs empowering - she has a goal, aim - a bit of a dreamer - brave, non-conformist, self-driven, strong and rises her voice - aiming independence - against stereotypes and takes her own choices - free of social opinion “You are great - don’t worry ! - Go for it “ - Petra Collins words and about the pressure society puts on women in general.

4. THE COLLECTION: to the mainstream fashion: “ Denim is not a trend - it is a uniform” 4.1. Inspiration: Create a story based on the inspiration from the lifestyle of the art and music bohemian society in the early 70s , New York, as well as the book of Patti Smith Just Kids 4.2. Fabrics - new territories of design - What kind of denim they use and why - there is a story behind the actual fabrics -Quality issues

M’A has the three things associated with denim today, according to Aitor Throup: 1.Nostalgia - Customization of the denim 2. Novelty - the innovation is in the fabric, how it is treated and used - RAW DENIM , their signature the frayed edges.

The future - evolution - “consumers want to see that there is sophistication build into it “ - Arthoph .. Levi’s CEO. - prove with the research into the brand fabrics THE DRESS CODE IS DENIM

Autumn/Winter - supported by NEWGEN, Topshop

Chapter 8 P R Ta c t i c s Marques/Almeida

1. Catwalk show 2. Warpaint collaboration 3. Photo shoot

by Ilona Angelova

following pages about the photo the designers selected shoot. themselves for the actual show.

It was opening by a song by The initial idea was to have Also Petra Collins will be taking Warpaint, who are also part of an exhibition,as replacing the pictures and short videos behind the campaign. traditional catwalk show with the scenes, also more the visual presentation of a information about her on the On the first role will be invited musuem. It has also been pages about the photo shoot. young editors, journalist, noticed increase in exhibiting photogrpaher, stylists, ect. along collections, rather having a tra- Her raw signature reflexs with already established ditional catwalk shows.

Marques’Almeida’s image. influencers, who have been The pictures and videos will be showing strong interest in the However, it was considered that shared for example on Facebook brand, as well as buyers the this angle of association of the to continue the tendency already brand is already working with brand with art it is not the most started by the brand. and maybe potential ones. appropriate for the launching of the collection.

They have already did one The press kit will be put in a video, which was published small denim bag, circle-shaped Marques and Almeida are the on their Facebook on 9th of and made out of unused pieces most inspired by attitude and May, which is found to be of fabrics left after producing messiness rather than perfection too long. Here is the link to it the collection. It will look like in a visual presentation. A mood . https://www.youtube.com/ DIY-bag and each bag will be and feeling would be expressed watch?v=S4ojTVjrInk. Made authenthic, because the fabric the best by the motion and the

by Pedro Rocha. Music on the used will be different. Also it excitement of a catwalk show. video is Patti Smith Group may have different fabrics sewn Furthermore, the aim is to make Passing in a river // 4.45 min and painted with pink acrylic, people feel the power of the video of the backstage action which has been used for the personality of the designers’ before the show. The idea of photo shoot. girl. having music along with the moving images is good and it It is possible to play around the The catwalk space of NEWGEN will be used for this campaign idea of paint. The bag will be and Topshop is fundamental for as well. hung on a tin metal chain and the brand’s growth. For a young will be very easy to carry. Along designer to have the support of The stylist will be Patricia Ruiz with the traditional press kit such big names in the fashion del Portal, find more about information, it will include Warindustry is an opportunity for her on her tumblr http://www. paint’s new album on a special press coverage, for patricia-ruiz-del-portal.com. She USB along with the videos the attracting influencers and is young, emerging talent, her brand have created with them. buyers, for increasing the work could be visually identiawareness around the brand, etc. fied with the brand of Marques Lookbook idea - imagery mixand Almeida, as well as she has ture of total looks and snaps of It is very important who the already done a photo editorial details, different parts of the brand is going to work with using their clothes and vision clothes, faces and expressions, and who will be invited. Again for inspiration. shoes, ect. It will be layout in a everythng is turned around the circle and put the pages together idea of working with young It is possible to have the catwalk with a strap. It should be small individuals. Ideally this will be set inspired by the photo shoot and convinient. The circle theme the same make-up artist, who is concept and have some strings will be also used for the invitagoing to do the photo hung down (more information tions and ideally they will be in shoot - Isamaya Ffrench, more on the pages of the photo shoot). this shape. information about her on the The music will be the same as

Gue st l i st :

By Ilona Angelova and Rebecca

Alexandra Gordienko - editor-in-chief - Marfa Journal Bartie Brandes - co-editor - The Mushpit Alice Goddard - co-editor - Hot & Cool Anna Trevelyan - Generation Next - Vision Magazine Lena Emery - photographer and Luke Raymond - Fashion assistant - Noon Magazine Sue-Wen Quek - writer - Dazed Alexis Brunswick- style.com Danielle Emerson - wonderland magazine.com Jessica Bumps - vogue.co.uk Anders Christian Madnes - showstudio.com Chioma Nnadi - vogue.co.uk Ashley Simpson - writer - thelast-magazine.com (Oliver Hadler Pearch photographer) Sophia Neophitou - 10 Magazine - editor-in-chief - “ M’A denim gods clever team add different washed treatment and use this idea so well applying to soft suedes creative and not predictable in the treatment of this everyday fabric. Love it!”

Francesca Burns -British Vogue Alexander Fury, The Independent, The Independent on Sunday and i, Fashion Editor Emma Elwick-Bates, VOGUE, Style Editor; Melanie Rickey, Grazia, Pop and Ponystep Contributing Editor Natalie Wansbrough-Jones, ELLE, Senior Fashion Editor Rebecca Lowthorpe, ELLE, Assistant Editor “We say it’s denim as you’ve never seen it and it’s brilliant” Anna Kinsella - contributes to Style.com, The Sunday Times Style, The Irish Times, ELLE.comCoverage journalists Caragh Mckay - Contributor at Wallpaper* Rebecca Hawkes - Photographer who works a lot for Volt Maria Kivimaa - Features Editor at Alvar Caryn Franklin - Writer at i-D Jamie Stocker - Contributor at Dazed & Confused Nesrine Malik - Contributor at Tank

T Olugbala - Blogger behind politicsandfashionblog.com Kate Foley - nextmodels.com Jo Simpson - Freelance fashion stylist and casting director - senior lecturer at CSM Bertie Brandes - i-D, Guradian, Vice UK, Dazed Magazine, The Mushpit Fashion feature editor and contributor Tilly Macalister-Smith - Fashion writter - London Katherine Ormerod - Senior fashion news and features editor at Grazia Kate Foley - ex-Opening ceremony buyer and creative consultant Lulu Kennedy - Fashion East Sir Philip Green - Topshop ( Arcadia Group ) Sarah Mowe MBE, BFC Ambassadpr for Emerging Talent and Chair of the NEWGEN selection committee Mary Homer, Managing Director of TOPSHOP, Caroline Rush, British Fashion Council, CEO Kate Phelan, TOPSHOP, Creative Director Laura Burlington, Fashion Consultant Laura Hinson, British Fashion Council, Showcasing Manager; Ruth Chapman, Matchesfashion.com, Co-Founder Yasmin Sewell, Fashion Consultant.

Sprezzatura - niche designers e-tailer - who is the buyer - on their stockitst Matt Drinkwater - Head of Fashion Innovation Agency at LCF Katy Katazome - WGSN - Denim editor Kathryn Lo - A.I. PR Matchesfashion.com bueyr - Liane Wiggins Opening Ceremony - Carol Song, Jesse Hudnutt Karen Quinones founder En Avance, Miami, Florida DIRECTOR Hiroyuki Shimizu - three of them for Restir boutique Tokyo DIRECTOR Ikuo Muranaka AUDITOR Kunio Miki Yasuhiro Mihara - buyer Idea by Sosu Ei-ichi Izumi Desperado Tokyo byer Alice Euphemia for Pet Shop Girls - Australia Carla Sozzani - founder of 10 Corso Como Örjan Andersson - founder Fran O Till A Stockholm

2. Warpaint Collaboration

By Ilona Angelova

Why Music?

1.Inspiration for A/W 14 collection - rock and roll scene in the early 70s - Patti Smith and Janis Joplin 2.Grunge of the 90s - main inspiration for the designers 3. Denim is usually worn by rock starts, bikers, punks - introducing this lifestyle and attitude of Warpaint’s soft rock 4. Punk/rock music has always been associated with non-conformist people 5. Gap current appointment of Aitor Throup as a Creative Consultant.

- Creative Consultant of Kasabian 6. The band is popular among our desirable consumer

WHO ARE WARPAINT?

Warpait is an American indie rock band from Los Angeles, California, formed in 2004.

Emily Kokal (vocals, guitar), Theresa Wayman (guitar, vocals) Jenny Lee Lindberg (bass, backing vocals) drummer is Stella Mozgawa In the Spring 2014 issue of i-D magazine, Francesca Dunn describes the girl band as quoted: “.. they jump all over the music scene with their beautiful harmonies and brilliant understated noice. With their grungy nonchalant vocals and psychedelic riffs, Warpaint take us to another dimension. Watching them live is one big hazy trip that we never want to come down from.”

How they desctibe themselves in the interview speaks so much for the attitude the campaign is looking for: Emily: “Wild child dancing little chieftess” Theresa: “Sugar, spice, all things nice” Stella: “Snare, tom, cymbal, sticks, kick” Jenny Lee: “ Gorgeous, glamourous, genius, gifted, great.”

On the question “what do you think future Warpaint will sound like”, Theresa replies: “A double rainbow all the way across the sky”, and also when she is asked about the advice she would give her 16 year old self, she says: “ Your uniqueness is what makes you”.

Their words and behaviour are very inspiring for what the campaign is about. Exactly this free-spirit, braveness and self-esteem are the messages of the collaboration with Warpaint.

W A R PA I N T L I V E AT W A R E H O U S E EAST SIDE - BOW NORTH OF THE RIVER

LIMITED EDITION JACKET

As part of the campaign a small live night with the indie rock band Warpaint will be organized. It will aim to bring together established names on the fashion scene and young creative individuals. It is planned to have a relax atmosphere, to invite people to have a few beers and to listen to some nice live music. The girls will be playing songs from their new album, as well as if they choose anything from their old records.

The chosen venue - warehouse in East London reflects the brand identity in a way it is raw, urban and gives the opportunity to translate a message for a fashion event, usually associated with glamour, inspired by the grungy spirit of the brand. The venue is at a peaceful place by the river with lots of greenery, boats docked and the scenery is quite relaxed deserted. It sympolise simplicity. The warehouse reflects the 1970s as well as the 1990s anti-glamorous aesthetics and helps to translate the message of the brand as niche. However, it also spaeks about the identity of Warpaint.

It also makes it exciting in a way, the interior of the warehouse to be designed according to the inspiration of the designers, the campaign goals and the photo shoot. It gives opportunity for many small messages among the way it looks - it must reflect the brand.

The dress code is M’A’s designs - Autumn/Winger 2014, as well as Warpaint will style themselves. It is essesntila the girls to pick up different pieces from the collection and put them together with their own clothes and shoes.

For drinks it will provide free beers. Ideally, it will be different and cool beer and it will be sponsored by the beer company - for example beer like Dead Crow, which is bourbon-flavoured. It associates the event and the beer company with the “cool and young” generation in London. It could get a lot of coverage on social media and different publications for the brand and the sponsors. Furthermore, we want need a big amount of alcohol, so if the beer company wants to sponsport, it won’t cost a lot for them.

However, as it is a warehouse the organizisation will need people to support it while happening. It is possible e.g. PRs to be taking beers out and interns to tidy up.

For food it is planned to have pink, blue and green mushrooms. The idea is inspired by the tumblr account of the campaign’s make-up artist - Isamaya Ffrench and her fascination with mushrooms.

If these mushrooms are not edible, traditional ones will be used and paint with edible paint.

Mushrooms tastefully prepared go very well with beer, as well as other type of traditional aside dishes for beer - burgers.

Along with the life event, Marques and Alemida will design a limited edition jacekt / vest for the band, which will be painted on the back. The idea of paiting comes across a few times in this campaign and it represents creativirty, self-expression and freedom of mind.

The jacket will be available on the brand’s online store, which fits its concept of offering only limited edition pieces.

A short video will be also created, which will involves Warapint doing their sound check, getting ready for the show and wearing their M’A’s pieces.

The clothes will be also gited to them afterwards.

The video will be shared on Instagram, as well as their new album will be included on the press kit.

Furthermore, the design of the invitation for the event can be inspired by some stills from the video.

MARQUES / ALMEIDA 4 WARPAINT

SOCIAL MEDIA PROMOTION - hash tag #marquesxalmeidaxwarpaint will be used to connect the guests’ social media activities to the brand, as well as it will make it easy to be identified - Share the launch of the limited edition jacket on the website, Facebook and Instagram - The short video with Warpaint for a visual engagement - Share unique images and a video from the preparation for the event - Unique images on Tumblr afterwards - according to the website theme -An album on Facebook afterwords - guests and atmosphere

WHY IT WON’T WORK 1. There is danger of superficial association of the brand with rock music as most of the classical denim brands. The message of the campaign is different, it is about the women who are in love with their art and do not comform with what the rest think about it.

They are free and creative and M’A supports them and want to be associate with them.

This is what inspires the designers - it is about the mood and the attitude. Good care will be taken in order to secure that the right message is perceived by the public.

2. The work and the pressure around organizarion of a gig is lot, as well as it is very expensive. The venue should be hired ( if it is negotiated for free based on behalf of getting media coverage and reputation around the brand’s guest will be ideal), as well as the drinks and the food have been already discussed. However, a lot of administrative work, the transport and the setting up the musical instruments also cost money. In the budget should be included also payments for the staff of the pub, as the gig won’t have entrance fee, there will be beer and food for free. All these things should be discussed and negotiated with the owner of the venue.

3. At the beginning it was decided that the venue will be Old Blue Shoreditch, but it was considered as too obvisous and popular place for gigs. In order to keep the M’A niche, raw and urban, it was moved in the warehouse, which was presented.

4. The band is from LA, however, they spend a lot of time in London.

5. They are not girls anymore, but grown up women - two of them have kids and established lifes.

However, youth, the free-spirit and the braveness are state of the mind, as well as the band has the lifestyle and the attitude

Photo shoot

By Ilona Angelova

1. A brand speaks with its imagery. For the last three seasons, including Autumn/Winter 2014, M’A does not have a concept shoot or created visuals by the brand.

2. Doing a photo shoot gives a big opportunity for expressing the brand’s identity visually. Second it creates automatically stories for pitching journalists and online brand content.

3. It also gives a lot of opportuities for engaging the consumers with stories before, during and after the photo shoot.

4. It will be made on film. This will allow to have a video, which can be projected and shareed, as we stills from it, which will be used as campaign images.

The idea behind the photo shoot is to be something very simple, but at the same time different and too save the raw signature of the visual language of the brand. Ideally Sofia, Marques’ younger sister will model again. Having her a year older, easily creates a message that the brand grew up itself as well.

Petra Collins photography and tumblr account

Photographer: Petra Col- Everything said above is the perfect match for what lins the campign’s needs are.

Dazedmagazine (2013) Her personality includes describes her as: “Twen- everything the campaing’s ty-one-year-old artist, ideal girl is. She has the curator and provoca- look, the great skills and teur Petra Collinsis the produces beautiful imagery, darling of the art scene close to M’A visual aesthetthanks to her cinematic, ics. However, more impordreamy and sometimes tant she has the attitude, the sadly beautiful images goal and the vision, she is and films, which explore brave and non-comformist themes of friendship, and she speaks her voice out. angst, budding sexuality, the male gaze and the general highs and lows of teenage hood.

She is the founder of The Ardorous, an online platform for girls to exhibit their artwork.”

In the spring/summer 2014 issue of i-D magazine, Sarah Raphel interviews her and at the beginning she describes her as: “Petra Collins is a 90s child. In this case, that means she dresses like 70s icon, she was editing videos by the age of eight..”

She is also a leader of many female-collectives with the aim of “empowering young women to be individuals and to have confidence in exactly who they are.”

Location: inspired by Lea Sorli’s, Creative Direction for fashion student at LCF, art instalation .

The photo shoot will be indoor, in a flat in a housing estate. The interactive instalation of Lea will be build, however it will be changed a bit especially for the photo shoot.

curtains, painted in pink and purple colours. The installation gives an opportuity for very girly and at the same time raw image of the shoot. The experimental videos involved me and other girl dancing in our white vests and pink panties. Using the installation will give an opportunity for beautiful, mysterious and magical video and images.

For Marques’Almeida the instalation will be build out of more white strips and more in the shades of the collection will be added. For example, the bags from the collection will be hung on the strings, as well as the fur s and the shoes from the collection will be spread on the floor.- the model will be bare foot.

Ii will be light and casual, Originally, it is built in her she will be walking slowly in house. It is made of cotton between the strings and even strings, which cover over dancing very gracefully. the garden. Lea decides to use bathroom curtains in Hair - dresser won’t be pink and white and cut them used . The idea is to have in strips. Then they are hung the girl having her natural from the strings and it cre- hair, even slightly messy ated a tent of falling down and with a fringe , inspired strips. It also gives the feel- by the look of Patti Smith. ing of going inside it and It also references those full getting lost in between the of light, natural images of colours of pink and white. Kate Moss from the 1990s.

On the ground are two white However, Lea has been in-

spired by similar to Collins’ idea of her photography.

She has the same idea to encourage girls to be whoever they want to be and not to be ashamed of their real bodies and personalities.

Collins ‘ Instagram account has been recently deleted because of picture of her , wearing unshaved her panties. It drove Collins to start rising her voice, because no one has the right to tell her that her body is not accpeted to look like this.

Interesting idea will be to use mirrors for the photo shoot - mirrored strings.

The idea is inspired by visiting Tate Modern. At the Artist room a work by Michael Baldwin Untitled Painting 1965 (Mirror on a wall) is exhibited. The caption the the work says that the mirror is a work of art, which is constantly re-creating itself by capturing the envitonment and translates into art itself. It changes the roles of the septetor into a subject.

Make up: Isamaya Ffrench

“That’s why this work is genuis, art and reality are one.”

Collins also speaks about her interest in shooting girls in mirrors. She refers it to the big part of building a girl’s identity by looking

at herself in a mirror. The photographer also speaks about the struggle of young girls and women in general with the self-image every day and how it is stressed by the media, which tells girls that less than perfection is not enough.

Make-up artist: Isamaya Ffrench “Mistakes make things human” - Ffrench i-D describes her as “one of the new breed of hugely talented young creatives coming out of London right now” Ffrench has a very unique make-up technique of painting on the face. It touches on art and paiting, as well as it also fits the background of the photo shoot. It also allows to put different makeup, which does not involves using foundation or maskara. It should be raw and little - colours inspired by the collection’s pallete. It also touches on the idea of the hippie culture and the 70s, which comes from Patti Smith and her personality.

It has this references, but it not is obvious. It aims more to get the spirit and the vibe of the culture, not using the straight forward look.

Music: Samaris Dazed print: “Icelnandic trio Samaris don’t make background music. “ We want people to experience something they haven’t experienced before, we really want people to be part of the atmosphere we create. we wanted to do something different, something electronic..”

“Our music can be melancholic though. This comes from our lyrics.

We take 19th-century Icelandic poems and fit them into the tracks like a puzzle” - it references Patti Smith and her mixture of rock and roll and poetry.

Stylist won’t be used for this photo shoot, the designers and assistans can choose the clothes themselves, as well as the vision of the photographer will be listened to.

Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe

1.Wallpaper* - Caragh Mckay - Contributor writer Pitch: “up and coming designers, young and edgy”, a Marques Almeida profile and interview.

However, the idea is to move the brand from “up and coming” to a level of a brand with authentic designs, established unique identity and it is about to grow up further from this level, which is seen in their new inspiration for AW 2014 collection -idea inspired by the SWOT analysis 2.Volt magazine- Natalia Manning - stylist Pitch: ’raw denim’ editorial. Visuals only Rebecca Hawkes - Photographer who works a lot for Volt Recently did an editoral with Volt called “I don’t care cuz I’m doing it right” - a lot of her work is very youthful and grungy - images are very reflective of Marques Almeida

Chapter 9 Media List and Pitched ideas Fashion and lifestyle magazines

By Rebecca Knight and Ilona Angelova

3. Alvar magazine - Maria Kivimaa - Features Editor Pitch: Marques Almeida profile featuring moodboards - similar to the pitch for Wallpaper*magazine 4. Mixt(e) - Anna Schieffel - stylist Pitch: A ‘raw denim’ editorial. Visuals only.

Editorials are often very youthful and fun at this magazine with a tint of teenage attitude. Her Twitter states she often writes about culture and brands - a brand like Marques Almeida ticks all these boxes especially with our campaign being focused around female empowerment.

5. i-D - Caryn Franklin - Writer at i-D Pitch:”Caryn Franklin promotes greater diversity in the fashion and beauty industries.” - recently wrote about the topic of fashion’s influence over the way women feel about their bodies, Marques Almeida’s feminist campaign could be interesting for her.

6. Hot and Cool – Alice Goddard - Editor “Alice Goddard, stylist and fit model-slash-muse to the Marques’Almeida designers” - strong relationship with Marques Almeida Pitch: The campaign raw photo shoot - girls- empowering - grungy editorial – raw denim, rips, very 70s inspired, artistic 7. Oh Comely - Annie Atkins - writer Pitch: an interview with War Paint on the topic of working with Marques Almeida and how their message of strong young women is so important and relevant to today 8. Tank magazine - Nesrine Malik - Contributor writer Pitch: Recently wrote an article titled “Shoot the Women First” which discusses why female activists championed abroad are always hated at home. It could be interesting for her to do a feature on Marques Almeida’s feminist inspiration, followed by an editorial.

9.Vogue UK – Emma Elwick-Bates - Style Editor and Vogue.co.uk Pitch: Feature some pieces in their trend pages – for product placement only as well as 100% collection preview on the pages for LCF Vogue.com – feminism based article. Why Marques Almeida and WarPaint are pushing female

empowerment.

The Mushpit - Bartie Brandes - co-editor

10. DAZED – Sue-Wen Quek - writer Pitch: a behind the scenes of the latest Marques Almeida collection and the “behind the scenes” of the video produced with War Paint for the release of their limited edition denim jacket.

about, quote from their website: “We believe the best way to criticise the unrealistic representation of women in the media is to prove it wrong. Yes we worry about boys, and what to wear. But no, we’re not ashamed of it. THE MUSHPIT prides itself on its high-quality, intelligent and original content.

Whether we are parodying the manic singleton, picking holes in the fashion industry, or shooting clever and beautiful girls in charity shop clothing, it is all intended to connect with an audience we believe actually exists.”

11. T Olugbala - Blogger behind politicsandfashionblog.comHas written posts titled “#GIRLBOSS”, writes about her favourite females, new collections and what she wears. She could write about the how everything about the campaign is produced by females, and even wear her favourite pieces for a post.

12. Pigeons and Peacocks – Nicole Mullen - writer Pitch: A very visual Marques Almeida interview done by a tutor they were close to at their time at CSM More Media and Pitches by Ilona Angelova 13. Shekyra Fenty - RihannaNavy’s Journalist and co-founder of rihannaoverdose.com Pitch: Petra Collins - the photo shoot photographer for i-D spring 2014 - she finds Rihanna inspiring in a way her lyrics are very sexual empowering for girls, “they are about taking control”., she also says that her songs are better for teenage girl than anything else you can listen to”. The campaign will pitch Shekyra Fenty in relation to Rihanna as M’A’s consumer and how her songs and vision are connected to brand’s campaign for AW14. Rihanna could be also the strong girl the brand is looking for. In this way we do not need to say “no” to Rihanna just because she is very “commercial”, on other hand she is a very powerful girl.

14. Dazed - Jamie Stocker - Contributor writer Pitch: He wrote an article about LFW Throwbacks: 70s meets 90s - so he might really like what Marques Almeida are about. Also Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethrope inspiration, there is an exhibition of his work in the Artists Room at Tate Modern, which Dazed featured this Spring - the campaign can also link these two things.

15. Francesca Dunn - i-D magazine Pitch: she has recently taken an interview of Warpaint for i-D spring 2014 More journalists: Marfa Journal - Alexandra Gordienko - editor-in-chief about: Marfa Journal is a new printed publication inspired by Marta (“Marfa is a capital of cultural disorder and we like that”). It is a platform that connects contemporary high end fashion and art. It is created by artist for artists. 6 sections: Raw, Casual, Decadent, Romantic, Obscure and Progressive.

Pitch her with the inspiration behind the photo shoot concept - raw and pink, “only about girls”, Lea Sorli - emerging artist from London and her feministic inspiration, empowering girls. It is important to mention Petra Collins and the make up artist Isamaya Ffrench - quotes from them and their ideas expressed in their work for Marques’Almeida.

Pitch: The photo shoot inspiration translated into fashion story idea for the magazine. Styling pitching, combined with other young brands. Petra Collin’s photographic aesthetics for visual inspiration.

The idea is to show the attitude behing who M’A’s clothes are worm and by what type go girls.

Generation Next - Vision Magazine - Anna Trevelyan About, quote their website: “Before V was put into print, we thought of it this way: Imagine a wall of forty-four televisions, each tuned to a different station. Today you would need a wall of 250 televisions, but it’s still a good way to think of the insane and unpredictable mix of people, places, and things that V celebrates in its pages.

V is a place where uptown meets downtown, celebrities mingle with total unknowns, high art converses with underground culture. Chic, wacky, fun, fabulous…in a letter: V.” Pitch: Interview with Petra Collins and her work for Marques’Almeida and her vision about girls’ image in the society, in general. She is quite young, interesting and intelligent girl, who fits there concept of having many different people.

Also it is possible to pitch them with the artist, Creative Direction for Fashion student Lea Sorli, who built the art installation, where the photographs for M’A’s is campaign are taken - “total unknown high art” - Lea’s concept is very strong and profound, it touches to many issues of contemporary culture as well as it has been a popular topic in the media recently.

Noon Magazine -Luke Raymond - Fashion assistant and Lena Emery - photographer About: “Noon is a magazine concerned with art and commerce. Published twice a year, the title has a strong art and fashion bias, with a focus on contemporary critical text alongside.”

Pitch: Interview with the designers and their critical vision about fashion and what is important to them in a new words, from what was already heard - the brand is on new level + some visual materials from the raw arty concept shoot for AW2014 Or pitching the Raymond for a fashion story styling, with story based on the campaign’ concept.

It will focus the fashion press release, which will involve new inspiration, fabrics, cuts, evening wear, more feminine and sophisticated, the growing up girl, for publications like style.com ( Amy Verner- she covered their review for AW14), ELLE UK ( Rebecca Lowthorpe, Assistant Editor), VOGUE.CO.UK (Jessica Bumps and Chioma Nnadi - writers)

www.showstudio.com - about: “ SHOWstudio is based on the belief that showing the entire creative process - from conception to completion-is beneficial for the artist, the audience and the art intelf ” - Nick Knight - Director Pitch: The campaign photo shoot will be made on film. The whole idea is to have fashion film, as well as use to use footages for the images of the campaign. The fashion will be accompanied by a small story and maybe interview with the photographer, or the artist Lea Sorli for the whole process. thelast-magazine.com - it is about the NEW at last. Ashley Simpson - writer Pitch: Behind the scenes interview with the designers - inspiration and growth of the brand and their girl.

10 magazine -Sophie van der Welle Pitch: “must haves” - “best pieces” from the collection - for small post on shoes or pieces of clothing, with a small caption or a quote from someone about them.

Clash magazine - magazine about music and fashion Pitch: Warpaint limited edition desirable piece as well as the gig story Rush Magazine - COCO ADORJANY - Fashion Assistant and SOPHIE EDELSTEIN - Arts Editor about: “Our website is about all the same things that are in the magazine but has the added bonus of being interactive, moving, noisy and best of all, updated daily. RUSSH is an independent fashion magazine showcasing innovators in fashion, art, music and film through originally produced editorial and photography. RUSSH reflects the way intelligent women approach fashion and beauty to create their own distinctive style.”

Pitch: The press release will aim to get the short film of AW 2014 campaign, introducing innovative and raw fashion, art and girls creatives at ones” Oak magazine: Pitch: perfect fits in terms of visual aesthetics, use of colours However, the campaigned considered the importance of having business related publications and newspapers. It will pitch the journalists in relation to the trade side of the launcing of the collection, giving important information for the buyers too.

It also considered the importance of talking about sustainability and for example it will pitch the fashion press with Marques’Almeida manifacturers and fabrics used around the event of “Fashion Revolutionary day” - where your clothes upsidedown - where your clothes are made.

Surveying was our way to get opinions from young people who Marques’Almeida is targeting. The group of people 18 to 21 years old were asked to describe their impressions from the concept shoot and write anything they can think of (It could be a characteristics of the style etc.). Approx. 12 people said the campaign shoot with two models in a very relaxed, quiet atmosphere gave them feeling of happiness, a few persons argued for the idea of the seaside holidays, some responders suggested the idea of vegetarians and Green Peace. " The girl who feels free in the actions."

"The whole atmosphere is chilled and relaxed" "...very minimalistic, concentrated on white colour mostly; it is all about young people spending their vacation near the sea." "...it might also be liked by people who want to be closer to nature or are vegetarians."

After the designers’ vision about ther brand, the press and fashion influencers, the campaign’s vision, here it is what random people though of the brand when seeing its images.

Survey by Elizaveta Maximova

General questions about the Marques Almeida clothing helped to find out where brand stands in public: Each participant described the style as casual, natural look, without embellished pieces and very close to wild state of mind; Just a very few people knows that the designer of these clothing is Marques Almeida which is not very promising in terms of brand's popularity and gaining attention; There are also interesting positions about "celebrating personality" as the design itself is very different from all that we got use to see and the person who can wear presented items is brave in some kind and self-relianed; Although no one would wear extreme-looking tops and oversized denim, for responders it can be more impressional and inspirational things to look at; To mention, everybody's sure about the fashion niche of the brand and strong, established design; One participant suggested the clothing may be inspired by Alexander Wang and proposed the New York catwalk platform to show the collection because of the fresh look.

"Nothing extreme in a sense of materials and the overall look is natural."

"It looks like a fashion show for charity or something like that due to its natural style and simplicity of the show itself."

"The first that came to mind – the Netherlands".

"It is fashionable that the person has a high prosperity, but, in principle, without taste in fashion because how to be spoken - "fashionably, doesn't mean beautifully".

This conclusion will point out the weaknesses of the project and will aim to show we considered what we have missed and ideas which have not been developed.

The campaign believes it has understood Maruqes’Almeida’s identity and their target market.

It also believes that everything which has been said reflects this understanding and has tried to make and represent its ideas from the most brand appropriate angle.

However, after the complementation, the project identifies that not enough primary research has been done. The most important part of the project is the understanding of the consumer, which could be done in more depth.

It seems the brand does not associate itself with the designer’s portuguese culture, it does not have stockist in Portugal and the media does not speak about them from this angle. It is believed their Portuguese roots can create interesting stories for the press and also to show better who the designers are.

The campaign could think of a better tactic to support its first goal, which is to define and strengthen the profile of its “desirable girl” as main consumer type. The campaign lacks interesting and engaging social media tactic - the use of technology and online communication. However, all the content create around the launching of the collection is planned to be communicated on selected social media platform and in an interesting and engaging way to reach this type of girls.

The conclusion also points out that it could have a better competitors’ analysis for example to include more young designers as competitors. It could look more at the competitors’ visuals, people they collaborate with and models they use. It could dig deeper into their aspirations and ideas behind what they say to their public.

However, the campaign in the represented way believes to be based on true facts and to has created relevant and realistic ideas.

Ilona Angelova

CONCLUSION