Spring 2009 Issue 13
Winter 2008 Issue 15
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ILOVEFAKE TEAM Editor In Chief
Jolijn Snijders jolijn@ilovefakemagazine.com
Fashion Director
Jordy Huinder jordy@ilovefakemagazine.com
Fashion Editor
Debbie Wester debbie@ilovefakemagazine.com
Editor
Niels Erik Toren Mark Brown Cover “Issue 15” Electric Issue: Photography Jolijn Snijders Styling matthieu pabiot Model Taylor Warren at Models1
Photographers
Reed & Rader, Eric Guillemain, Jolijn Snijders, Shannon Sinclair, Viktor Vauthier, Philipp Mueller, Saga Sig, Matt Sundin, Wouter Vandenbrink, Marco van Rijt, Willem Jaspert, Wendy Bevan, Roman Goebel, Jacopo
Contributors
435Hudson Agency, Rene Hauser agency, Tony Jones Models, Matthieu Pabiot, SPS Model Management, Eric Elenbaas, House of Orange, Studio 13, Freya Morris, Models1 London, Select Models London Yokaw Pat, Angelique Hoorn, Style Council, Elite Models Paris, Blow PR, Spice PR, Abner Preis, Request Models, Michelle Carimpong, Fresh Models, Tjarda Models, April Jumelet, Chau Har Lee, Katie Eary, Modelwerk Alexandra Kruse, Style Council, Sandra Jahn, Aga Urbanowicz, Mark Edio, Bryn Bowen, Elisabet Alma, Svala Lind, Pedro Dias, Danine Swets, Tanja Becker, Bert Kietzerow, Liganord, Deborah Modiano, Silvia Molonato, 2morrow model management, Ennji, Mc Dill’s, Melody Maker, Spektre, Justin Bartlett
Published by
Jolijn Snijders Ilovefake Magazine De Zetter 5, 1521CT Wormerveer www.ilovefakemagazine.com
Visit us on Myspace:
www.myspace.com/ilovefake
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advertising@ilovefakemagazine.com
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ECCENTRIC ISSUE LOOK2
06 14 26 30 38 46 50 52 62 70 80 86 96 102 110 118 128 134 144 150 152 160 170 174
Reed & Rader - Interrview Baby, you electrifiy me -Editorial by Jolijn Snijders Katie Eary by Debbie Wester & Mark Brown Handsome Devil -Editorial by Shannon Sinclair Svala -Editorial by Saga Sig Abner Preis -Interview by Mark Brown Viktor Vauthier: Intro to diary Here comes trouble -Diary by Viktor Vauthier Skulls, Gun and boys -Men’s Editorial Matt Sundin -Interview Psycho Delics -Beauty Editorial by Marco van Rijt Interview with VBERKVLT Courteous -Editorial by Wouter Vandenbrink Interview with photographer Willem Jaspert Golden Girl -Fashion Editorial by Jacopo End of the sun -Editorial by Roman Goebel Ready, Steady, Go -Beauty Editorial by Jolijn Snijders Wendy Bevan Interview Eccentric Looks by Jordy & Jolijn Column by Niels Erik Toren The boy with the world on his side Photo story by Jolijn Snijders Between light & Darkness -Editorial by Philipp Mueller Chau Har Lee -Interview by Debbie Wester The EJF Sessions -by Eric Guillemain
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contributors JOLIJN SNIJDERS
Founder / Creative Director, Amsterdam Growing up in The Netherlands with punkrock kids and bands, Jolijn Snijders lives & breathes rock and roll. At gigs she got handed down countless cut & paste fanzines, flyers and homemade coversleeves. “Everything is independent and DIY, you get inspired by everything around you”. Jolijn wanted to create a similar ‘homemade’ zine, one where upcoming talent and established artists meet, mixing art, photography & fashion. Driven on discovering cool mad artists, spotting new talent became her mission and started Ilovefake Magazine in 2005. After graduating Art Academy she worked in advertising for clients such as Guess and Hilfiger. Now the life-source of Ilovefake makes a living as a photographer shooting for Karl Lagerfeld, Vice, Baby baby baby, Avant garde, ELLE, Qvest, Metal Magazine, among others.
JORDY HUINDER
Fashion Director, Amsterdam Mad as a hatter Jordy lives and works in Amsterdam as a fashion stylist. During his studies as a Fashion Designer at the School of the Arts in Utrecht, he lived in London where he interned for none other than punkrock queen Vivienne Westwood. After that followed an internship at high fashion glossies ELLE and Marie Claire magazine. Currently Huinder is freelancing as fashion stylist for countless magazines such as Vice, Avantgarde, Metal, Indie, Ozon, etc. Next to his freelance job he works hard as the new Fashion Director for Ilovefake Magazine.
DEBBIE WESTER
Fashion Editor, Amsterdam Fascinated by fashion, rock, tattoos and the underground scene Debbie worked for the clothingbrand Gsus and started a few years later as a fashioneditor for the Dutch program RTL Boulevard. There she devised items that contained subjects like fashion, art, design, music and lifestyle. Wester interviewed and met some of her great heroes like Helena Christensen, Walter van Beirendonck, Viktor & Rolf, Dita Von Teese and Cassetteplaya. Now she’s a freelance fashion-editor for several magazines as ZOO, NewStyle, CODE and worked in Paris with Macedonian fashiondesigner Marjan Pejoski.
NIELS ERIK TOREN
Columnist / Pose Puppy As tasty as fresh fruit and as new as tomorrow. Moreover he has travelled half of the known galaxy and he has been in bed with numerous women who were all just as creative as himself - now that’s having high standards! Although he blends in just fine in his current climate; a hot, spicy and impulsive jungle which critics claim to be the fashion industry. He is ready to (d)evolve and enter the realm with yet to be discovered advantages. A world the infamous they call:”the real world”.
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MARK BROWN
Features Editor, Amsterdam / New York As a young kid Mark was raised in to an Art collecting family. By always having artists, paintings around him he went on to start designing shoes at Dutch Company Invito. Then followed a job at K-Swiss on the lifestyle footwear department. After 2 years it was time for a change and he started organizing parties for Amsterdam Galleries (Art of Noise) and working close with galleries and his parents art collection. Now Mark is on his way to NY to start working at Adam Kimmel. After this he will do his Master in Shoe design in Firenze. The things he loves are the things that trigger him to think differently about his own world and the world around him. Life is short and there for it has to be lived as much as possible.
VIKTOR VAUTHIER
Photographer, London In a world where we are constantly bombarded with artificial images, Viktor Vauthier’s photography is a breath of Fresh air. Born in south of France and raised in London, he is incorrigible, he’s in constant motion, working several cons at once. “I constantly see images that have been photohopped beyond reality and make people and things looks unreal”. Using an old Compact 35mm rolls film Camera and no photo-shopping or any editing made his photographs with unique colors and grains.
JACOPO MOSCHIN Photographer, Milan
Living between London and Milan, young fashion photographer Jacopo J Moschin, likes to shoot film more than digital and has a love for beauty, youth and simplicity. In his pictures he is constantly looking for the timeless feeling. Currently working on his first solo show that will present his portraits of young East Londoners, he’s also involved in art direction and directing. He has a deep interest in contemporary art and interior design, as well as rock music, and among his passions are surfing and boxing. His favourite color is black. If you can’t find him shooting young beauties he is most likely to be driving his car heading somewhere he has never been before.
SAGA SIG
Photographer, Iceland / London Saga grew up in Iceland where she started taking pictures at the age of 8 with her pointandshoot camera... She hasn’t stopped snapping since! Saga decided that she wanted to be a photographer and last year she moved to London to study photography at the London College of Fashion. Saga’s work has been published in different magazines around Europe, most recently Dazed and Confused. Saga is currently working on a video project, and working on an exhibition in February. Saga loves ILOVEFAKE and is very happy to be part of this issue with images taken in “Slippurinn” in Iceland. Check out her amazing story called “Svala” in this issue.
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REED+ RADER
Interview by JOLIJN SNIJDERS photography & artwork REED & RADER /reedandrader.com
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When did you start your carreer, how did you get into it and why the collaboration? We met while attending the Art Institute of Pittsburgh. We actually met online via a social networking site and then we realized we lived in the same building and attended the same school. Originally we didn’t begin as photography majors, but ended up switching into photography. Eventually we moved away from Pittsburgh and moved to New York where we attended The School of Visual Arts. Since the very beginning, we weren’t formally a team, but we were always at each other’s shoots and giving suggestions. Eventually we decided to do a shoot officially together and it was hands down our best work. From there it became a collective and everything was together. Reed + Rader was born. Are you a couple? Do you work solo as well? Yes, we are a couple. No, we do not publically work separately. what do you like about Fashion? We love creating a character. Fashion for us is about creating a persona, a time, a thought. We’re very specific about what we like in fashion, it usually has to be something more outgoing, more dream like. We generally like to push the fashion in our work so it’s not something you see walking down the street every day. We like our subjects to become something that pushes the imagination. Please describe your average monday for us? Wake up, play with our cat girls (Essy and Xanadu), email, email, have a sandwich for lunch, meet new faces or client, cut out and build props, edit, talk and brainstorm about upcoming projects, sketch out shot ideas, make dinner, dance, email, maybe play a game, hug, eat oatmeal, email, read ebook in bed, go to sleep around 4AM. describe your style? Photography, video, animation, illustration, installation, graphic and 3D design – our digital art is a blur of all of these. While we are formally trained as photographers it just feels familiar in today’s multitasking world that as technology continues to consolidate so do the arts. Despite living in and obsessing over a digital world we still very much prefer that our projects have a tangible element to them and to do things for real if at all
possible. This ranges from physically building props and sets to actually cutting things out and collaging them with paint, pencil, and paste. The scenarios our work presents may exist in some imaginative beyond reality but are rooted with a playful sort of traditional naivety. Your work is quite bizar, more like art, do you think people in the fashion industry relate to it? It excites many, but terrifies the status quo. Who do you work for / favorite projects or clients? We love collaborating with Ryan Dye at Spiral Magazine. He’s a friend of ours that we went to school with and eventually moved across the street from us. We love working with him because he has no limits and pushes us to be creative. Whatever crazy ideas we have, he allows us to bring them to life. We also love working on our self portrait project where we go to locations and wear giant robot heads. What are you most proud of until now? We are most proud of remaining true to ourselves and having fun with the little world we have created for ourselves and our work. It’s also exciting for us explore ideas that are more on the current fringes of photography and push them towards the mainstream. Sharing our ideas with the world is probably the most rewarding thing there is. Where do you get your inspiration? We get inspiration from everywhere. We often get inspired from Internet memes, forums, blogs. That’s the great thing about the Internet, the Wikipedia effect, you click on one thing and then all of a sudden you’re 20 links away and just learned something totally unexpected. We also love video games and many of our characters we create are rooted physically and emotionally from gaming culture. We try to surround ourselves with nonstop stimulation. We have a large collection of stuffed animals, we refer to them as “The Family” , and they highly inspire us to think outside and create a imaginary world. We are very addicted and inspired by futurists and technology and where it will push us in the years to come. The idea of augmented reality plays a major role in our work and that is something we will continue to pursue as we highly
believe we will be living in a augmented reality sooner than later. Movies or books that inspire you? Books: Rainbows End, The Singularity is Near, 1984, Red Mars, Atlas Shrugged, The God Delusion, Neuromancer, anything Star Wars Movies: Blade Runner, Serial Experiments Lain, The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari, Brazil, Citizen Kane, Metropolis, Strange Days, Star Wars, Monty Python, Ghost in the Shell, 2001: A Space Odyssey, Wall-E What’s your most Eccentric Memory?? We were shooting on location at the beach once with Paul Pavlovska, a favorite model and friend, and we had her wear a custom made Tusken Raiders mask we built. We were trying to figure out the shot when all of a sudden a few teenage boys rode by on their bikes on the boardwalk and started to cheer “Sand People!” while pumping their fists. It was a joyous moment as we like to bridge the gap between geeky and fabulous. Any future exhibition plans?? We’ll be part of a group show called “Shoot the Messenger” at APF LAB in New York in November. a few people that you’d like to work with? Daft Punk, Rick Owens, Gareth Pugh, Yohji Yamamoto, Ray Kurzweil, joyous futureaware youth What projects are you working on now? We are constructing large cutout clouds to fly in the sky. Casting a plaster arm to clad in medieval armor for a first-personshooter style battle. Continuing to push the next evolutionary step of photography as animations and hybrid still/video images. Future goals? Whatever the future looks like we would like to continue to create a dialog where we can push people and ourselves to think beyond today’s reality and imagine what is possible tomorrow through progress. Technology and innovation are moving so quickly it’s hard to predict where it’ll be in the future, but wherever that is we’d like to be with it. Famous last words? Wubba, Wubba. www.misterwubba.com 7
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“We want to push people and ourselves to think beyond today’s reality and imagine what is possible tomorrow through progress.”
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BABY,
you electrify me Photography by JOLIJN SNIJDERS Styling by MATTHIEu PABIOT
- This Page: Taylor wears Embroidered multicolor patchwork of fabrics jacket MANISH ARORA 14
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- This Page: Taylor wears Green cotton shoulder pads body VISBOL DE ARCE - Opposite Page: White cotton and printed silk tanktop HEAL
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“I got chills they’re multiplying And I’m losing control ”
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- This Page: Taylor wears Navy blue and black pleated wool skirt TOGA, Dark red plastic balls necklace AGATHA, red top H&M, shoes BARBARA BUI - Opposite Page: Embroidered yellow wool dress MANISH ARORA, Purple sunglasses RAY BAN
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- This Page: Taylor wears dress by MODEL’S OWN, tights by H&M, shoes BARBARA BUI - Opposite Page: Denim shirt by VINTAGE LEVI’S, White cotton and printed silk tanktop HEAL 20
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- This Page: Taylor wears Embroidered yellow wool dress MANISH ARORA, Purple sunglasses RAY BAN - Credits: Make-up & Hair: AGA URBANOWICZ, Model TAYLOR at ELITE PARIS, Special thanks to MAUD COHEN
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- This Page: Taylor wears Embroidered multicolor patchwork of fabrics jacket MANISH ARORA, White cotton and printed silk tanktop HEAL, blue denim shirt VINTAGE LEVI’S, Dark blue Jacket PAUL & JOE - Opposite Page: Navy blue and black pleated wool skirt TOGA, shoes BARBA-
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KATIE EARY Interview by Debbie Wester and Mark Brown
25-year old British designer Katie Eary has based her MA collection around the traditional shapes of formal menswear and ostentatious military wear worn for special occassions giving it a contemporary twist by applying these pageantry details to more streetwear shapes. Classic tailoring in menswear is her passion. Shape and silhouette and so she incorperates this into contemporary tailoring using architechtural methods of construction. Katie Eary: “Menswear is more fun to play with. I believe that men invented ‘feminism’ but disguised this word as dandy or fopp”. How did you start your career? “I’m still unsure. I guess I always knew what I wanted to do and so everything is in steps, which from the outside I guess look like leaps and bounds... But I think the definate turning point in my life was when I went to the Royal College of Art (RCA). I really focused for 2 years. And then the moment I finished it was like a whirlwind, it hasn’t stopped. Im really enjoying doing what I do best. Which is rare and so I feel greatful everyday”. Where did you grew up and how was it like? “I grew up in a town called Stevenage. It’s a really horrible little town...I always felt like a bit of an outsider. It was only when I went to the RCA I met so many likeminded people and really came out of my shell”
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Why the interest in fashion? And especially menswear? “It’s forever changing...I think I have ADHD and so it suits me to change all the time. I don’t have time to get bored.. Why menswear? It’s more fun to play with. We all have it in uss to dress up, but in human nature it is always the males who are far more grandosie and beautiful then the female. Its just since the Victorian era mens fashion became to a slave to ‘making things easier’. How did we go from the beautiful tied cravat to a tie with elastic hidden under the collar? From beautiful dinner/ evening shirts to ‘non crease, no need to iron ever again shirts’? Its like we are starting again and introducing more and more glamour into menswear, Hence why I consistently go
for military looks as the uniform is such a stunning piece of work. It’s all so exciting and I want to contribute”. You studied at RCA, can you tell us more about your time there? “It was amazingly fun! I met so many amazing people that I will remain in contact with for the rest of my life! They set me up with some great sponsors too. I don’t think I could quite put into words how helpful they were with instilling self belief and becoming fearless! Hahahahah. Also the RCA educated me so much not only to find myself as a designer but to articulate my design which I feel is so important. A designer should fully understand what they are talking about within their design work. They gave me the confidence to believe in my design which came with understanding it. The reason I decided to do my MA at the RCA is due to the fact that its the only menswear MA in the world, a pretty good incentive...” Where do you find inspiration for your collections? “Books, Books, Books, and of course MILITARY!” In your winter collection you took inspiration from your English Heritage. What was your inspiration for the new summer collection? “Inspiration derived from the book ‘Naked Lunch’, mixed with Junkie, both written by William Burroughs, My take on the general feel of both the books created the collection. I found such a weird love story amongst all the chaos from the book’s. It’s the most sinister love story imaginable; the love story which is the most-exciting love you could ever have - but the most dangerous. It’s the one that you know is so bad for you but you keep going back until eventually there’s nothing left of you anymore, but it was a hell of an adventure getting there. It’s the relationship between a dealer and the abuser, the most destructive relationship, and how one can’t survive without the other”.
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Where does the love for skulls come from in your new summer collection? “It’s the deterioration of the body and so skulls seem quite fitting...” What’s your favourite piece of English history and why? “The 1600’s!!! all of it! Whats not to love about it, the opium dens in whitechapel and the sexual fantasy places written about from all good writers of that time. It was all so dark and magical...” What’s your favourite eccentric era of English fashion? “1600’s...” Most memorable fashion moment? “Alexander mcqueens new shoes!!! H ELLO!!!*()*(*T^&*(^%^E%W^*(*I )_....”
actly what I want, I think I’m to much of a design domineer!” What do you think of the future holds for Men’s fashion? “Well it appears to be getting more and more daring, it’s exciting times and I’m so glad to be apart of it!” If you were asked to design for a well known fashion house who would you like to work for? “Givenchy, or Balenciaga...” Any dream project you would like to do? “Work for Nicola Formichetti as a creative gimp for a few weeks...” Most eccentric movie ever and why? “Uhhmmmm, I can’t think! This is always such a hard one to answer, I don’t sit down and watch cool films all day... it’s not really my thing. But I do think David Lynch is amazing... Wild at heart perhaps?
Any artist or designer we need to know about? “Anyone who was involved in the Brit art movement in the 90’s. I’m all about 90’s when it comes to art. Tracy Emin, What are you future goals? Sarah Lucas, Damien Hurst, I could go “Bath first, Fashion Domination tomoron and on, but you know the moment rrow...” I’m talking about. They are all a huge influence in the person I am today”. Do you make all the amazing accessories by yourself or do you collaborate with somebody? “I like to work solo a lot of the time as I have tunnel vision and tend to do ex-
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HANDSOME DEVIL Photography by SHANNON SINCLAIR Styling by MICHELLE CARIMPONG
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Grooming Mark Edio Set Design Bryn Bowen for WARS model YURI PLESKUN at Request Yuri wears Shirt by Cheap Monday
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- This page: Yuri wears Shredded v-neck tshirt Obesity & speed, Patterned knit trousers General Idea, Gold winged sneakers Jeremy Scott for Adidas - Opposite page: Yuri wears Pink Blazer Helmut Lang, Checkered trousers General Idea, Boots Issey Miyake
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- This page: Yuri wears Black PVC Hoodie Yarimaki, Red Inside out Cargo pants Claude Grant, Seqined high tops Jeremy Scott for Adidas - Opposite page: Yuri wears blue checkered shirt by Cheap Monday 34
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- This page: Yuri wears Jeans Cheap Monday- Opposite page: Yuri wears Quilted vest Moncler, Knit trousers Bernhard Willhelm, Shoes Issey Miyake
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Svala photography saga sig styled by ELIZABET ALMA
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 Svala wears vintage black leather jumpsuit form beyond retro, studded belt from rokit, tights TOPSHOP, heels New Looks
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 -This page: Svala wears vintage white lace dress & fur, shoes dr martens, tights from h&m, belt from rokit -Opposite page: american apparel denim trousers, vintage top, socks from h&m, boots dr martens
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 -This page: Svala wears american apparel denim trousers, vintage top, socks from h&m, boots dr martens -Opposite page: denim shirt Levi’s, headband from skarthusid, tights topshop, lace top vintage and leather shorts from rokk and 42
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 -This page: Svala wears purple vintage velvet dress from rokk and rosir -Opposite page: purple vintage velvet dress from rokk and rosir, white socks from topshop, boots dr martens
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-Team Credits: photos Saga Sig styling Elisabet Alma model Svala Lind
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ABNER PREISE The artist ABNER PREISE from The Netherlands loves telling stories, making drawings of stories, and contemporary installations, Abner uses a lot of sad materials (garbage, waste, thrown out things) to make people happy. Preise currently has a new show in Amsterdam at the Gabriel Rolt Gallery. The show is called WARRIORS, LONERS, AND SPACE TRAVELLERS. There will be drawings, audio installations, video and a performance called “the honor dance”, where they are going to dress up like Vikings and Rock n’ Rollers and have a big street fight in the center of Amsterdam. Interview by Mark Brown artwork abner preise Where are you from and how did you end up in the Netherlands? I was born in Israel, moved to Indiana, Maine, Arizona, Philadelphia, went to school in Italy, I met a girl, we moved to Amsterdam, and then I was invited to Rotterdam for an artist in residency program and I’m still in Rotterdam. She is gone, and I’m still here.
What inspires you? Simple things inspire me, people on the tram, or bus, kids, old people, my friends, children’s drawings, music... I have learned though, that as an artist, inspiration is something that takes a lot of work. It’s not like I wake up and feel inspired, it takes a push and alot of exercise.
What do you do? I’m a story teller, since I was born, I was always telling stories (well maybe not immediately after being born). Now I travel telling stories, making drawings of stories, installations, I use a lot of sad materials (garbage, waste, thrown out things) to make people happy.
What do you want to trigger in the audience minds with your work? My stories are always based on simple ideas, and always with a happy ending. I have told my stories hundreds of times, and it always amazes me, when I ask an “older person” when the last times they were told a story- and mostly people say
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since they were kids. Triggering some ones memory is a really great feelingit’s like taking them in time machine to their youth. I saw that you use clowns in your art, were you never scared of clowns when you were a kid? I never was scared of clowns, in fact, never really liked clowns, I didn’t like that they didn’t talk, and did all these funny gestures. My clown is different, he is really cool, always dresses nicely, takes it easy, he drinks a bit, smokes a bit, and is always surrounded by a beautiful woman. He’s not so interested in making people laugh; he is more interested in making people love- and smile. Do you think life is sometimes to serious when you get older? This is the point of my work! I think life does become too serious, it becomes WAY TOO serious. Something’s are serious, people get sick, die, go hungry… this is serious stuff- but my work is not about making people remember these bad things- we have the TV and newspapers for that. I definitely think ART and Artists take life too seriously. I take being an artist seriously, but not Art. With my work, you will not see the serious side of tragedy, but the serious part of imagination and understanding, feeling, and happiness. This might
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sound like some hippy bullshit, but I’m a hippy with a brain. What’s the most eccentric thing you ever did yourself? One time I went to the United Nations as a representative for the World Hunger Organization. I brought with me 293 crying African and Asian baby’s dressed like rabbits, and explained to the comity that if we didn’t give these rabbits carrots, they would cry even more. If you can choose one place that you can exhibit anywhere in the world where would it be and why? I think that I would like to have the Popes window for a Wednesday Mass in the Vatican. Thousands of people, who come there, with the intention of believing in goodness- it, would be a very easy crowd to convince that feeling good is a possibility. If you could repeat something in your life what would it be? Third Grade for the third time, Smoking weed, masturbating, first blow job, first time falling in love, living in Rome, meeting my real parents. You can have any artwork in the world for a day what will it be? I would take Damien Hirst’s Diamond Skull, and fuck it.
What is your favourite place in the world? Under water. Name 3 colleague artist you really appreciate and why? Daniel Johnston the singer and artists and schizophrenic. I love his songs, his drawings are so beautiful and simple also, because of his disease, his family’s struggles and support, he rocks!! Paul McCarthy for his sense of humour, and the fact that he was an inspiration to so many artists, even ones his own age. Axel Rose- because he went to my high school. Where is your next exhibition and what is it about? I will have a show in Amsterdam with Wayne Horse at the Gabriel Rolt Galery. The show is called WARRIORS, LONERS, AND SPACE TRAVELLERS. There will be drawings, audio installations, video and a performance called “the honor dance”, which is basically the remaking of the movie “Worriers”, we are going to dress up like Vikings and Rock n’ Rollers and have a big street fight in the center of Amsterdam.
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When we asked our favorite London photographer Viktor Vauthier to shoot on a regular basis for Ilovefake magazine, he immediately jumped to the idea. In every issue we will showcase his diary, a selection of his best snapshots.
VIKTOR VAUTHIER Â
shot by ELLA
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HERE COMES TROUBLE
photographic diary of VIKTOR VAUTHIER models Eiko, Anna, Grace, Georgia, Ella, Isamaya.
“Just arrived at Georgia’s house, she opened the door, and this is when I shot this photo...”
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“SM night at Isamaya’s house.”
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“Ella getting drunk during ahoot with stylist Georgia Broaders in my house..�
“Ella high as a kite on my favorite roof terrace in London..�
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“Watching Gummo with Anna in my house”
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“Eiko, blinded by the light..”
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“Georgia naked in her Leopard print bed sheets.“
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“Pati and Grace playing on the white floor of Grace’s house.”
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“Grace’s cat jumped on her arm during a shoot.”
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“Eiko playing around with a see through vest.”
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the skulls, guns and boys photography jolijn snijders production jordy huinder styling FREYA MORRIS Models Jeremy young at models 1, alex dunstan at Select
Thanks to BLOW PR LONDON
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 Jeremy wears dark skinny jeans by LINA OSTERMAN, triplet skulls with sequins accessory by GISELLA GANNE
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Alex wears tank top by MODEL’S own, gun accessory by Gisele Ganne, Jeremy wears darkblue t-shirt by Lina Osterman and skull accessory by Gisele Ganne
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Alex wears tank top by MODEL’s own, sequined gun with silver chain by Gisele Ganne
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 - Opposite Page: Jeremy wears dark blue t-shirt and black skinny jeans with studs by LINA OSTERMAN, shoes by VANS, Alex wears dark blue vest with chains by LINA OSTERMAN-This Page: Jeremy wears dark blue t-shirt and black skinny jeans with studs by LINA OSTERMAN
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- Opposite Page: Jeremy wears dark blue t-shirt by LINA OSTERMAN, jeans by LEVIS, Jeremy wears chain and jeans by LINA OSTERMAN-This Page: Jeremy wears dark blue t-shirt by LINA OSTERMAN and black skinny jeans by LEVI’s,double sunglasses by Charlie Le Mindu
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What would be your dream shoot? Making a movie that I wrote. Who influenced you in your career? Nobody specific. I’ve always kept my distance from other artists that I admire because I prefer to discover on my own. I have no idea why I feel this way, but its the same reason I’ll never take photography or film classes in my life. What is the most absurd thing that you shot? When i moved to new york I made $200/day assisting on commercials. People were very nervous and serious about shooting ridiculous shit. You had maybe 20 HMIs and 35 people on set so you could shoot a bowl of potato chips. It was like finding yourself inside a Christopher Guest movie. What music do you listen to? Right now when they play in new york I go see Violens and The Children. I listen to all music and this second I’m listening to Celia Cruz.
Please write a short bio, who are you and what do you do? I’m a filmmaker and photographer living in new york. I’m from Seattle, and my family is there and in europe. I grew up being active outdoors, studying music, and traveling. When did you start your career, how did you get into it? About two years ago I took a studio space so I could learn photography and do more with film and video. I spent half my time on personal work and the other half making videos for clients that I wanted to work with. It really turned into a business and bigger opportunities came along very quickly.
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How would someone describe your photography style? Anyone that knows me sees that my style expresses a very personal view of life. I think about youth, beauty, movement, suffering, nostalgia but those are normative things. If there’s something deeper there, I’m not the one to put it into words.
What are you most proud of right now? I’m finishing a 45 minute film that I shot in paris last fall with the new york city ballet and paris opera ballet. It’s challenging and exciting to represent top artists that are so delicately percieved. How do you put a lens up close to something that’s intended to be seen from the balcony? Is there always a story behind your photos? What do you prefer? I don’t think you can know a shoot until you’re in it. It has to be an interaction where you give and take direction in order to find a connection. If there’s a story it would always be the same: “be yourself” or channel this idea of yourself. Do you work alone? It depends on what I’m shooting. I am usually happiest working alone, but especially with film there are projects where you need good support. With fashion I’ve worked with some very talented people and I think those who’ve worked closest with me know I’m a bit of an accidental tourist wandering through their world. There’s a symbiosis but we don’t really speak the same language.
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The most weird / absurd moment in your life was when..? The other day I was sitting in a park in my neighborhood under a tree. Three kids on a scavenger hunt came over and showed me a typed piece of paper that explained they were looking for a man in blue plaid wearing a band-aid under a tree. That was me. What inspires you? People with integrity and class; And always movement with music... Tell me something about your neighbourhood. What’s it like to live there? I lve in the east village of new york. I go to the russian baths two blocks from my apt
but it feels like I’m 1000 miles away when I’m cooling down on the roof with a lemonade. Its a little strange and probably not very clean but so is this neighorhood/ city. You can come into contact with more types of people in a day than you might somewhere else in a year. If you could repeat something in your life, what would it be? I would repeat it all again, better and worse. It all happens for a reason, so you don’t go back and fix it. The hardest thing is not spending enough time with someone that’s gone, or wishing you had been nicer to someone. The best and worst thing that could ever happen? The best thing would be to keep my life moving as it is right now; the worst thing is either to stop learning or never fall in love again. A few people that you would like to work with? The Kirov ballet in St. Petersburg, James Nachtway, Terrence Malick. Tell me more about your past exhitibions/personal work? I just came back from an exhibit at the London Fashion & Textile museum with a short film I made for a lingerie brand. I also had some photos published in Kara Marks’ book, ALL THINGS ORDINARY. Any upcoming exhibitions? My ballet film will start screening in some theatres this fall, and a short film about the Philip Johnson glass house will play at the Camden film festival. I made that one with Paul Biedrzycki who I collaborate with frequently. Other future plans we need to know about? Right now I’m working on long-term projects and hoping to move abroad for a while where I can work in a new environment. Favorite quote? “Be bold, the god’s will favor you.” I don’t know if it was from Gilgamesh or Francis Coppola? more info: www.emsfilm.com 75
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PSYCHO DELICS photography MARCO VAN RIJT styling APRIL JUMELET make up YOKAW PAT model ANNIEK at TJARDA model MARLEEN at FRESH 80
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Sweater Collection K 83 via SPRMRKT
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vberkvlt JUSTIN BARTLETT alias VBERKVLT, is an artist and illustrator hailing from San Diego, USA. His often black ink illustration work consists out of skulls, monsters, strange deep sea creatures, demons and other dark minions. Justins work is very dark yet funny, and his clients widen from Black Metal bands to clients such as Anti-Sweden Jeans, Creature Skateboards and of course a collaboration with Vice magazine. Interview JOLIJN SNIJDERS Artwork by VBERKVLT Tell me a bit about yourself, a little intro so to say? Hi, I draw skulls for a living. I spend a lot of time sitting down and making dots and scribbles that eventually form into an album cover or a shirt for a band. How did you start your career? I didn’t really start my illustration ‘career’ until a few years ago. To make a long story short, it took me a while to get to that point where I felt that I knew what I wanted to do. I had years of experience in graphic design already. In both the corporate world and also the freelance stuff I did on the side, I wasn’t satisfied with what I was doing creatively. In a way it came full circle from my interests as a child. When I was a kid I was obsessed with strange deep sea creatures, insects, and reptiles. Not only did I keep a lot of reptiles and insects as “pets”, but I used to spend hours drawing them. I also watched tons of horror and sci-fi movies when I was very young (many with my grandma oddly enough), and I am sure those images ingrained themselves on my brain. In high school, I was an illustrator on the yearbook staff my second and third year. Besides that, and screwing around with rudimentary art and design programs on various computers, I never took my “art” seriously. I thought of possibly going into biological illustration; but other than that I never considered any other career related to art.
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Right out of high school, I was a biology major.... but that went nowhere fast. There I was; armed with some creativity, enough Photoshop and computer knowledge to be dangerous (but not necessarily good), an eye for detail and a huge interest in death metal, black metal, and grindcore... and still no clue as to what to do with it all... but slowly, something was coalescing. Somehow I found the email address of Anders Odden who was in Cadaver, a death metal band from Norway. Definitely the first major turning point that lead me where I am today was working with Anders on a lot of Cadaver projects and a few other Norwegian bands. Through that was able to get my name out there a bit. I taught myself and honed my skills within the full spectrum of computer design (Photoshop, Illustrator, InDesign, web design). For the next few years I just drifted around at various schools, had a few design jobs, and eventually paid too much for a bachelor’s degree in graphic design. After a while I felt like I needed to change my form of creative expression. I had a desire to get away from the computer and started focusing on drawing again. I noticed a resurgence in hand drawn album covers across all sorts genres, and also in some design magazines I checked out from time to time. There wasn’t a lot of practice or an attempt to develop some sort of style - I just started with some micron pens and a notebook.
So to end this long winded story, the second fork in my “career” path, was when I had emailed some of my work to Stephen O’Malley, who I’d known for years. He liked my hand drawn illustration work, which was really encouraging for me and soon after commissioned me to draw the cover for a SUNN O))) album cover..... the rest was all downhill, but mostly uphill for me, as they say. What were your first projects/ideas? As mentioned above my first real project was designing the Cadaver “Discipline” album. We also created a fake murder scene clean up website, (which was investigated by the Norwegian version of the CIA actually) called www.cadaverinc. com. As far as hand drawn illustration work, it would be the SUNN O))) “La Mort Noir” EP - which features a tastefully rendered fungal ridden and decomposing woman across three panels. Where does your name VBERKVLT (Uber Cult) come from? “UBERKVLT” is tongue-in-cheek internet metal nerd lingo. “KVLT”: usually refers to a band within underground black metal (and sometimes death metal) circles who release obscure demos or albums in typically low pressings. It can also apply to underground bands from the 80’s and 90’s such as Sarcofago, Hellhammer, Von, Beherit, etc. From my experience, it’s a more subjective term that the fans of the genre use and not usually
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used by the bands themselves. I used to call myself “wearetherobots”, but I think VBERKVLT is much more fitting. It’s more KVLT than UBERKVLT since it has two V’s. I am not being “ironic” about the term, I think my work is fairly obscure in style and usually in subject... it’s just a funny inside metal joke... if anything, I am being ironically ironic. Wrap your head around that. Can you tell us more about your neighbourhood, do you like it? Yeah, I live in central San Diego - within walking distance from a world famous zoo, museums, a huge park, and most importantly a post office and good grocery store. I work at home and I don’t usually have to drive too much. Also, it’s right on the border of the gayborhood which means there’s a little more ‘culture’ compared to other parts of San Diego - tons of cool restaurants, shows, and fairly interesting people.... and I have seen Rob Halford from Judas Priest walking around from time to time.
As I mentioned earlier, I grew up drawing deep sea creatures, insects, monsters, very detailed robots - and never enjoyed drawing people all that much. I was never really into drawing people in a typical comic book style, which you can many references to in a lot of bestial black/ death metal album covers. So usually when I do draw people, they’re usually kind of retarded and fucked up looking. On the other hand, I haven’t “tried” to be different or do the opposite of what everyone else is doing. It’s just how I draw. I think my style fits well within the genres of music that I work with, and most of the time it’s the typical subject matter of death and the occult. I am not afraid to try something new, or draw something slightly different by putting a new twist on my style or subject matter when I can. I kind of see that as a part of being an artist. I can draw things realistically and sometimes too technical at times think though, I am interested in actually regressing those aspects of my style and technique.
I grew up walking around at Hardcore punk gigs and seeing dark artwork splashed on the pages, or on record sleeves, shirts, merch, arms....and everywhere else, after a while everything starts to look (and sound) the same. What makes your artwork stand out? I could be talking out of my ass, since usually I do, and it’s the viewer who decides which art stands out from the rest... but here goes. Possibly the fact that I stopped drawing for a long time and wasn’t trying to emulate some of my peers had something to do with it. For example, I do like Chris Moyen’s and Mark Riddick’s work a lot - but I’ve noticed that there are a ton of people now that try to draw in their style. Which is fine, because you have to start somewhere.... but it kind of creates a realm of art that does tend to look the same. That can be said within any area of art or illustration.
Besides your personal work, who are your clients? Well, depending on how you look at it unfortunately or fortunately all I do is client work now. It’s good since it shows that I am busy and can get work, but there’s an obvious downside to it too considering I have a ton of personal projects that I want to start and finish. Since I work with bands and labels that typically don’t have a lot of money for artwork (compared to more “mainstream” work), I have to take on more work than I’d like sometimes to pay the bills. I think over the last few years I’ve demonstrated that my illustration style can be applied to a pretty wide variety of clients - death metal bands to high fashion jeans without being compromising my ideas and aesthetics. Since I am doing this full time and for my total income, it would be cool to get an agent
one of these days to find a wider variety of work. I know it isn’t exactly ‘KVLT’ for me to say that, but I’d still work with underground clients too, because that is where my heart is. I’ve worked with a ton of bands and labels, Southern Lord, SUNN O))), Trap Them, etc. I’ve also done work for Creature Skateboards, Vice Magazine, and Anti-Sweden Jeans. Do you see life in greater detail than others? In terms of visually and also how the world is connected, yeah, probably more than the average person. That can be both a good and bad thing considering I am probably hypersensitive. I see a lot of humor in your work, which is refreshing in your “niche” branch. What do you think about this? I’ve never really taken myself completely seriously - but I don’t necessarily try to throw in an overbearing sense of humor into my work. I think it depends on the viewer.. for example, depending on your sense of humor or relative exposure to images of goats having “relations” with a corpse, you might think it is funny, disgusting, or cool. Who influenced you in your work? Everything influences me really...I know that’s a shitty answer, but it’s the truth. From a visual perspective: I don’t want to call myself an outsider artist, but I really didn’t follow illustration or art at all until just recently. After more people started seeing my artwork, they would compare it to Edward Gorey, Nick Blinko (Rudimentary Peni), and Michel Langevin aka AWAY (the drummer from VoiVod). I knew a fraction of those artist’s work because I have a ton of VoiVod albums and some Peni records and I had seen some Gorey work, but I didn’t try to draw in their style. After hearing comparisons to my artwork, I delved into their work more and found inspiration just simply 89
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by how they kind of did their own thing. I’d like to think I don’t let other artists ‘influence’ me too much, but that’s probably wishful thinking. I am not sure how music exactly influences my art, but it’s always been a pretty big part of my life. The first tape I ever bought was by The Cure when I was ten and from that point on I have always been attracted to the ‘darker’ sides of music (post punk/hardcore/metal/industrial). Usually the atmosphere or mood that the music creates in me will inspire some artwork for a band I am working with, or for personal projects. What projects have you done that you are most proud of? It’s cheesy to say “all of them” - but I put a lot into my work. If I’d had to pick, probably the poster I did for MOSS, work with SUNN O))), Anti Sweden Jeans, and the ton of illustrations that created for The Observatory’s “Dark Folke” album. I am proud of the fact that I’ve been able to get to where I am now on my own terms, won some awards, had a few shows, been in some fairly popular magazines and books, and haven’t had to compromise my style. A day in the life of your head could be very interesting, what would it be like? Heh... well it’s not very interesting to me... it can be fairly shitty at times. If you’re referring to how my ideas come about, I am not totally sure of that... I know that I am happy when I am creative, and vice versa. I am pretty good at coming up with tangents related to a general theme, or at least a different way to visually communicate an idea with analogies or small references. If I am working with a client, I pretty much require to read the song titles, or lyrics - it’s good to have some sort of umbrella of consistency between the music, lyrics, and visuals... but it’s also interesting to throw in odd things too.
I do keep somewhat of a sketch book, so usually I’ll draw out some of my ideas and then later some of them are used for client work. I guess that’s one benefit of working with my usual clients - I can usually create whatever I want (which usually relates somehow to their lyrics or title). Because of the way that I draw, it’s sometimes pretty frustrating and time consuming for me to feel like I am communicating my thoughts and ideas fully to paper. I draw a bit on the large side usually and with pen only. It might take several days of work until an illustration begins looking like what I had envisioned in my head. Sometimes it takes a totally different direction though, which is kind of cool. What would be your dream project? I have this loose idea of creating a children’s book that is a visual allegory of my thoughts on religion, society and environmental degradation; perhaps with a soundtrack to go a long with it. I guess it would be a collaboration of sorts with a writer and musician/band. I have a loose story already, but no time it seems. The best day in your life, what could it be? Realistically speaking it would be when I finish paying off my school loan... I know, I am a dreamer. But other than that it might include a day of really good sex, beer and dinner culminating in going to see TRON 2 in the theatre! Any cool artists that we need to check out?? Franciszek Starowieyski, Wayne Barlowe, Michel “Away” Langevin, Nick Blinko, Banks Violette, Albín Brunovský, Will Sweeney, Matt Greene, ROK (Sadistik Execution), GOAT (VON) Famous last words? I’ve probably said too much already more info: www.vberkvlt.com 91
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COURTEOUS Photography by WOUTER VANDENBRINK at Par31 Styling by PEDRO DIAS at nina klein Make up & hair Danine Swets at Angelique HOORN Models Harmon, Tim Stein, Boudewijn, Casper N. at Tony Jones
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Jacket and shirt by HERMES
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left: top by WOLFORD, jacket by LOUIS VUITTON right: Jacket and shirt by DOLCE & GABBANA
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left: Jacket and shirt by HERMES right: Eli wears jacket and shirt by KENZO
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WILLEM JASPERT WILLEM jaspert lives and works in london as a photographer. Willem started out taking photos in clubs for the face. Now his photographs exude a magical realism, picturing boys and girls in an almost make believe world who are always styled properly. Jaspert is still quite understated and we hope to see him doing campaigns and more magazines in the future. Interview by JOLIJN SNIJDERS photos WILLEM JASPERT
How did you start your career? I’ve always loved photography and when I was in my teens I started shooting club pictures for The Face at the weekends… It was a great way to skip the queue and get in for free! After studying I moved out to Mexico for 4 years and lived the good life before coming back to London to start assisting. I’ve been shooting for a year now and so far it’s been great! How would someone describe your style? Depends on who’s trying to describe it I guess! I’ve heard ‘stark but lyrical’, ‘charming and engaging’ and ‘understated beauty’ and in a way, they are all sort of right… but that’s not for me to say… you can decide for yourself. Which magazine and clients have you worked for? I’ve shot for Dazed & Confused Japan, GQ Style, Topman, bstore, Metal, Celeste, Universal Records and many others. I’m still quite new so am building up my clients list at the moment! Do you see a difference between editorial, commercial and personal work? Where do you draw the line? Yeah it’s totally different. Editorial and Personal work give me pleasure in a different way and you have much more control over the finished product. Com102
mercial work is essential as its the way to fund doing anything else like editorials. Some commercial jobs are cool as they have seen an editorial you did and want to do something similar so its all in your hands again. The first year of shooting is quite tough as you do lots of editorials and only a few money jobs (if you’re lucky!). If I love an idea for an editorial then I think you can always a find a way to do it.. Even with no money! What would be your ultimate shoot? Somewhere hot! Do people really get paid for those kind of jobs? Who influenced you? Mum and Dad gave me the confidence to do what I want to do and I learned different things from the photographers I assisted…Technical stuff from John Akehurst and then from Corinne Day I learned to loosen up and see things in my own way. Film Director Mike Figgis reminded me that you can do whatever you want to do and that there is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ route to get there. It was thanks to Mike I started shooting video too… Are you afraid to grow up? There is definitely bit of a ‘peter-pan’ feeling in our industry but in the end we all get older and I definitely feel that the older I get, the more I know exactly
what I want from my work. What do you like about shooting youth? Energy, unpredictability, naivety How do you pick out the models, do you relate to them? Personality counts for a lot… we normally have a real laugh on set Do your photos rely on a narrative? A lot of the time there is a narrative in the shoots. Often the idea comes from a place or location, sometimes I’ll be out on my bike and see something amazing. Shoots are a team effort and its great to sit down with a stylist and bounce ideas off each other. What are your thoughts about Fashion? Does my bum look big in this? Being a freelancer can be rough, how do you cope with a ‘slow’ week or month? Thankfully it’s been really busy recently and things are really taking off… but I suppose there will always be quiet patches. I always make sure I’m at my desk emailing people by 9am every morning... sort of like a ‘real’ job, and I always go for a walk or bike ride in the afternoon to clear my head.
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Any upcoming projects or developments you are looking forward to? My film company WASP launches soon… cant wait! Oh, and a top secret gallery show next year Tell me more about your film company? WASP is a boutique film company I’ve created with Stephen Langmanis. We showed our film ‘Hide & Seek’ during New York Fashion Week and it went down really well. Over the last few months the demand for film has been amazing and nearly all major fashion brands have started to see the full potential of shooting film as well as stills. A film we made last year was used by a denim brand to promote their own minifilm-festival on their website... There are so many different ways to use it. I’m excited to be one of the first people making short fashion films with a narrative rather than just doing them as behind-the-scenes or off-the-back of a stills shoot. What music do you listen to? Don’t tell anyone but my ipod is full of disco classics! We all just want to have a good time right? Some of your favorite movies? My all time fave is The Big Blue.. I could watch that a million times and never get bored! I recently re-watched Rumblefish and True Romance again and had forgot-
ten how amazing they both are. Oh, and last night I saw Up-3D at the cinema... So so good, and fun to sit in a dark room with hundreds of people wearing silly glasses! What inspires you the most? Everything and anything… On my last shoot someone called me ‘magpie’ because I look at everything! A few people that you would like to work with? Last time someone asked me that question I said Michael Jackson and look what happened there! This time my lips are sealed! Any travel plans soon? This year I went to Zanzibar with my girlfriend Stania and it was so amazing! It’ll be hard to beat but we are thinking about planning a trip to somewhere like Cuba or Brazil sometime soon. Winter is setting in and its impossible not to dream about being somewhere nice and warm. Its tricky as a freelance to set time aside but sometimes you just have to go for it! Favorite quote? “And you can dance, for inspiration” Madonna (Into the Groove) more info: www.willemjaspert.com
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-This page: Silvia wears Viva Radio T-shirt American Apparel, Gold Nails Leather gloves Accessorize - Opposite page: Gold Bathrobe Regina Kravitz New York, Vintage from ‘A rebours Via Ghibellina, 2 Florence
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Silvia wears Red Checked Shirt Chaps Ralph Lauren, Black biker boots New Rock from Mc Dill’s, Milan
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Shiny Bodysuit American Apparel, Men’s baggy Blue Jeans Cheap Monday, Sneakers H&M, Gold Necklace by Accessorize
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-This page:
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Flag STYLIST OWN, Shiny zip up bodysuit American Apparel
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-This Page:
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Monday from Melody Maker, Milan, Sunglasses Urban Outfitters, Sneakers ALL STARS by CoNverse
-Opposite Page: Jeans shirt Pull and Bear, Micromesh Gloria V Bodysuit American Apparel, White socks H&M, Green Canvas Sneakers Victoria
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photography by jacopo , styling by deborah modiano, make up by silvia molonato, Model audrey @ 2morrow model management, Thanks to ENNJI, MC DILL’S, MELODY MAKER and SPEKTRE
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END OF THE SUN Photographer: Roman Goebel, www.romangoebel.com Styling: Tanja Becker, www.tanjabecker.com
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Theresa wears leopard coat by wochdom, body hanro, shoes charlotte ronson - This Page Bath-
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Theresa wears body agent provocateur, stockings falke, shoes bruno frisoni - This Page: Theresa wears
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Theresa wears Jacket & back Individuals, Stockings American Apparel - This Page: Rianne wears
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- Credits: Photographer: Roman Goebel, Styl-
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READY STEADY GO! photography jolijn snijders styling MATTHIEU PABIOT
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 - Opposite Page: Jenny wears 3-D printed silk dress. MARIOS SCHWAB, Black plexiglas bracelets AGATHA - This Page: Black satin silk hooded coat. JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
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 - Opposite Page: Jenny wears Red satin sleevless zipped dress, HEAL - This Page: Patchwork of blue cotton and wool dress. TOGA ARCHIVES, Orange coral necklace. AURELIE BIDERMANN
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 - This Page: Jenny wears Blue satin dress with black, silver and gold ruffles. TOGA ARCHIVES, Blue leopard printed leather boots. JIMMY CHOO - Opposite Page: Jenny wears Embroidered sequins 3-D effect sleevless dress. MARIOS SCHWAB
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Wendy Beva Interview Jolijn Snijders Photography WENDY BEVAN
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Wendy Bevan has been one of my favorite photographers since I first came across her work. I fell instantly in love with her dark mysterious and sinister polaroids. typically shot on polaroid, her work has been published by titles such as Russian Vogue, Italian Marie Claire, MUSE, Nylon, V Magazine, Qvest, POP Magazine, I-D and more. Short intro, who are you and where are you from? I’m a Fashion Photographer and Jazz Singer from London. Tell us more about your neighbourhood, is it inspiring or do you like to travel? I love my neighbourhood, I live in Soho. Its so much fun. So many characters. I love to travel, I’m lucky that work allows me to do that some times. I like to also get out of town and go to the countryside. How did you start your career as a photographer Looking at old family photos. 136
I think your work is very haunting. Tell us more about your dark side? I can’t say too much, it’s a mystery and I’m as mysterious as that dark side. I also see a hint of Cindy Sherman reference in your photos, can you tell us more about your interests and your influences? Cindy Sherman is a great artist, I also love Deborah Terboville and Sarah Moon. They are great female photographers. I am influenced by many things though, and rarely turn to contemporary photography for this. Often I look back into Art history, I also use films, and the theatre as a source of inspiration.
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You always use polaroids for your personal work, but as far as I can tell also for your commercial work, can you tell us why? There is something so magic about the Polaroid. It allows you to steal a moment, capture it and put it in you pocket. Its such a beautiful tactile object. Do you believe in magic? I believe in Fate. For you, what is the most beautiful thing to photograph and why? The people I love: friends, family. Do you have a photograph which has big sentimental value to yourself? If so, what is it? A photograph of my mother when she was about 19. She used to be a model, and I think this photograph really influenced my decision to become a photographer. Is there anywhere in the world you would like to go and photograph? Iceland What has been your most fulfilling shoot to date? Recently a shoot for Italian Marie Claire. I cast a group of my friends to model in a fashion story. The story was influenced by Cecil Beaton’s ‘Bright Young Things’. Two people you would love to work with? David Lynch, Isabella Rossellini, What projects are you working on now? I am currently working on recording my first Jazz album. I have a really great group of musicians and producers that are on my side. It should be out later this year if not early 2010. I have also just finished several photographic shoots for some great publications, so I am currently working on the post-production
for these. Watch out for my work in: ‘How To Spend It’ and ‘Grey’ magazines in September. In October the Independent, and the new online magazine ‘Test’. Also, Italian Marie Claire over the next few months. For you, what is the best way to relax? In the garden, glass of wine, in the countryside. Why is the photograph important in modern day life? It is a fantastic modern art form, and one of the youngest. It has so far to go, but has come so far already. Its opportunities are endless and exciting. Where do you find inspiration? Everywhere What would you say is your favourite time of the day and why? Very early in the morning. The silence is wonderful. The most eccentric memory you can recall? All my memories reflect the decadence of an eccentric. I am an eccentric! What many people might not know is that you are also a singer ? Can you tell us more about your music? I am a Jazz singer. My style is influenced by the 1920-1950’s. Do you have records coming out or any upcoming gigs ? I am currently recording my first album. I have lot of gigs coming up in September. Check my Myspace for details: www.myspace.com/wendyrosebevan What about making movies.... that could be a great medium for you as well no? Yes, one day! more info: www.wendybevan.com 139
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Photography Jolijn Snijders Styling JORDY HUINDER Make up & Hair YOKAW PAT Models AMY POST @ SPS
amy, in the sky with diamonds Dancing on your cloud dressed as a sparkling diamond you will trash yourself a little bit down in search for the best New Years Eve party. Sparkling like champagne you will dance in to the year 2010. A new Luxiourous beginning is starting now... 144
free spirit Find your own freedom and roots, you’re a mix and match international global girl. On this trip you welcome new fabrics, colours, shapes and mix it all to one. Free your mind and go for spirit.
Opposite page: Jacket & dress Bas KosterS www.baskosters.com this page: Top Vintage Laura Dols www.lauradols.com Pants Ivo Mittlemeijer , Shoes Daryl van Wouw
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Dress Ratna Ho www.spicepr.com
ACID BALLERINA As a pale ballerina wearing the new shape you go and find your own movement. Fragile but strong and with a little sparkle of acid accessories, you will party yourself into the next level of shape. 146
Dress And beyond www.spicepr.nl Jumpsuit Monique van Heist via Sprmkt
RAVE ON, GIRL Inspiration for this look is coming from the late 80’s begin 90’s. Acid music is hot and so is XTC and LSD. It’s all about love, peace & smileys! Dress yourself up in rave trip patterns and space the night away.
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the new knight Instead of the dark knight, you’ve come to bring color and light. Wear your save the world cape on tight pants and style it off with sparkle and shiny elements.
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Skirt used on neck Pinko www.pinko.com Dress Henrik Vibskov via Sprmkt
Shirt & Top Vintage Zipper ww.zipper.nl, Skirt Pinko www.pinko.com, Legging Ratna Ho www.spicepr.nl Sneakers Diesel
MATERIAL GIRL The metallic material girl will dress herself down using vintage materials. A shiny marriage of mix and match colours into a new fun basic every day street or party look, surely turning heads on you.
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So much of our time is preparation, so much is routine, and so much retrospect, that the path of each man’s genius contracts itself to a very few hours. - Ralph Waldo Emerson Recently, many people have found themselves in the awkward position of judging me. The quietly observe me, like a hunter observes it’s prey. After a while they claim to know more of me than just my high water marks and my public debaucheries. Then they construct some horrible and sometimes (regretfully) justifiable, speech to spite my lifestyle or my supposed lack of character or even worse, future. A biologist, wouldn’t call these observations accurate or factual, since most of these people, forget to look at the nature of the beast. And it is of course, the nature of every man, the mysterious waters of his very soul, that are the most frightening, satisfying, revealing and truthful. This hasn’t stopped anybody yet, and judgments are coming in like hate mail to Kanye West. This of course, is all fine and dandy. Everybody is entitled to their own individual opinions. And I won’t even blink when these savage inquisitions are happening, at the thought, that most of these judgments, or in fact, all of them, just like my own, are the product of biased, misguided, mass produced, clinically altered, TVokay, Radio-ready, government approved bullshit. We all just see the tip of the iceberg, even when we look in the mirror.
BAD HABITS DIE HARD Column by Niels Erik Toren Photo by JOLIJN SNIJDERS
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I went over to Theo the other day, you know, Theo Theo, and we sat down, got drunk, talked girls, politics - just kidding folks - and it was then, that I laid upon him, a rather satisfying metaphor about life. The metaphor a consequence, of my love for steak and my craving of it, on that very moment, resulted in the following. Life, dear people, is a steak. And of course, as you are all probable meat freaks, just like myself, you know, that a steak needs certain ingredients to taste as deliciously as US prime beef can, if prepared properly. Two of the most important ingredients, I say vital ingredients, are salt, and pepper. Go into the rabbit hole with me here, for just a second. And imagine, salt, as the seriousness of life, it absorbs your vital life energy, and turns it into wealth, fame and hard work. These are all very material things, and as we know, from the statistics (numbers,
you know, those boring little things you can find in long detailed reports of any kind), material wealth, doesn’t necessarily mean, happiness. You can ask almost any rich man or woman, and they will tell you the same thing, if dosed accordingly with; heavy liquors, dimmed lights, and good listeners. That in fact, a shiny sports car with no top, parked in their garage, doesn’t make them feel happy for a whole year, maybe just a split second, in the store. Not even a thing as living and adorable as a Labrador puppy will provide you of endless entertainment. because just as with all things, puppies get old, and rusty, and you get bored of them after a while. Now, we know, that too much salt, will make your steak, inedible and it will strip the meat of it’s tenderness, making it taste old, rusty and plain boring. Then on to another key ingredient, is as you can probably already guess; pepper. Pepper, will lend the meat a distinct flavour, a sort of spiciness. Thus Pepper stands for the spiciness of our lives, the boundaries of our excess, it represents a simple and childlike fun, and spawns those favourable moments that make life worth living. Now, the following, should be said, too much pepper, and you’re screwed. Drugs, violence, partying - and personally; women, all very exciting things, but dangerous in the way, that you can become attached to them, and they all catch up with you one day... As I had already established, payback is a bitch. Too much pepper, and you’ll end up physically torn apart, possibly exiled, thrown into a loony bin, with a broken heart, an encyclopedia of std’s, an empty pocket, and a habit to get into a serious argument with every ordinary smug roaming the streets, and folks, there are allot of them these days. But, a life is weighed, at the end of our lives. Isn’t that what the bible said? You’ll be sitting there, in front of the pearly gates, when this tall/skinny white guy shows up, with a beard like gandalf the grey, and a general appearance of a hippy from the 70’s when he’s in his 70’s. He’ll open up on you, not in some emo way, a book, with in it a huge motherfucking list of things you fucked up, and a few things you were ‘aight in’. It is then, when the steak gets eaten, and you get judged, and decided will be if you will be cast away or
cheered in. Now personally, the crowds I hang out with... don’t get cheered in that often, so I’m good either way, chillin’ with the crew downstairs of touching up the angels upstairs, both seems like a pretty fair deal to me. Hell yeah, maybe they’ll drop me off in purgatory and I’ll be doing a bit of both. Personally I don’t believe in God, Heaven, a legion of angels and a demonic exile down below. But I figured it’ll do the metaphor some good. But to get to the point of all this gibberish. I’ve been peppering the steak an awful lot recently. And I admit it. Fuck me, I’m guilty and if my life ended now, I know that shit’s gonna get hot for me. But, although, I mainly sound cynical, I am in fact, a person with a very positive outlook on the future, and I don’t expect to be leaving you all shortly. But keep in mind... Now, old folks, come around, and they mount themselves into the parenting position, and tell me about, how I don’t know shit yet (well I know how to, that’s a good start right), and then they turn all contradictory. They open up and tell you how... just for one day... they’d love to change places with me. Be young once more, just one simple, a single day, they aren’t greedy. Shit, old people can’t be, judgment is right round the corner for these folks. They got charities to attend to, lives to safe, parenting to do., salt to shake. An army of old people, wanting to look young, sending us off to colleges where we get drunk, and fuck, and lose our innocence, and where we run around naked, crazy, happy, sometimes only for a split instance and get our hearts broken by amazing people, who all leave their mark on your existence and the way you perceive yourself, until the end of our road. Until we get old, rusty, salty, and need to grow up, and we need to be more responsible, buy fast cars but still having to deal with speed limits, sucking out fat through electrical devices, fat that returns even faster than you can suck it out at one point. Until we look back, to the juicy parts of our lives, when there was pepper, and constant danger, and no reason to ask why, because it didn’t matter, and although we start thinking it does, we got sixty years invested in this steak it, has to have a meaning, when it really doesn’t. And we develop illnesses that fuck up our memories, until we act like kids again, but there is no more pepper
left to deal with. At such an age, you talk to your grandchildren, and tell them how much you would give for one of their days, to spice it up a bit, get that edge back where it belongs. And your heart once more in agony, your soul ripped in half. For just another day, running amok, around town, drunk, young, too young to die, beautiful, in love, covered in bodily fluids with hormones that still do what they are supposed to do. Shit’s crazy... I’m superfly TNT, I’m hot, spicy like the thai food or the indian curry from that place around the corner. My steak is gonna be a damn fine one, all peppered up so that I can one day look back, satisfied and laugh about it all. Appreciate the amazing moments, shrug off the more embarrassing ones. Well, that’s the goal anyway. And then the critics, once again, ask me whatever happened to salt being a critical ingredient. I got some more years on me, I’ll be getting salty, don’t worry. I’m just balancing, it’s never too early for pepper and never too late for salt. But I can’t lose my grip on the pepper now, goddamnit, time is running out, no time to play around with the salt shaker, I’ll hit myself in the head for it later, shoot myself in the leg, whatever. Damn, youse lot are all beautiful, amazing, young (well, fuck some of you are), get yourself hot and spicy before you’re wondering where the heck all the pepper went. I read another theory somewhere, a writer, I forgot his name, he said; Life ¡s often a bittersweet collection of moments. I like that theory too, that’s a good one oldsport... “have fun, get wild, drink whiskey, and drive fast on empty streets with nothing in mind except falling in love and not getting arrested. ...” - Hunter S. Thompson
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the boy with the world on his side photography jolijn snijders production JORDY HUINDER styling FREYA MORRIS model sid ELLISDON at Models1 London thanks to BLOW PR LONDON 152
- Opposite Page: Sid wears dark blue t-shirt and black skinny jeans with studs by LINA OSTERMAN, shoes by MODEL’S OWN -This Page: Sid wears
VINTAGE plaid
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- Opposite Page: Sid wears dark blue t-shirt and vest with chains by LINA OSTERMAN, jeans and belt by Model’S own-This Page: dark blue tshirt by LINA OSTERMAN, necklace by GISELA GANNE
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- Opposite Page:
Sid wears dark
blue t-shirt and black skinny jeans with studs
by LINA OSTERMAN, double
sunglasses by Charlie Le Mindu, shoes by Model’S own -This Page: Sid wears plaid shirt , shoes and jeans by MODEL’S OWN
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- Opposite Page:
Sid wears
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TAGE shirt by LEVI’S, jeans and shoes by Model’S own-This Page: Sid wears dark blue t-shirt by LINA OSTERMAN, necklace by GISELA GANNE
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BETWEEN LIGHT AND DARKNESS Photography : Philipp Mueller at Rene Hauser / www.phmphoto.com Styling Alexandra Kruse at Style Council / www.style-council.ch Model Sandra Jahn at Fotogen Zurich
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Special thanxx to Olivier Yoshitomi for the Ride
 Sandra wears Sunglasses Models own, Leggings The Kooples 161
Sandra wears T-Shirt by Opening Ceremony, Tights Fogal, Overknees H&M Divided Exclusive
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Sandra wears T-shirt “pump up the Jam” by Lovisa Burfitt
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 - Opposite Page: Sandra wears Belt Nina van Roijen, Shoes Buffalo, T-Shirt Lovisa Burfitt, Miniskirt Stylist own, Tights Fogal - This Page: Sandra wears Masque and Hat Lovisa Burfit, Little Black dress Acne, Harness by Ilya Fleet by Lovers Lane
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Sandra wears Masque by lovisa burfitt, Leggings by American Apparel, Harness by Ilya Fleet by Lovers Lane, Brown leather bag by Prada, Heels by Stuart Weitzmann
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 Sandra wears Bikini by Agent Provocateur
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- Opposite Page: (top) Sandra wears Jacket Comme des Garcons, Shirt Lovisa Burfitt, Jeans Cheap Monday (bottom) Sandra wears Shoes COS, Stay Ups Wolford, Necklace Aris Geldis
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Chau Har Lee Interview by Debbie Wester
Her latest collection was inspired by Luigi Colani and Pierre Cardin: their optimism, delight in materials and futuristic vision. Chau Har Lee admires their commitment to the pure idea and how the design object becomes almost fetishised. She combines traditional shoe making techniques with new technologies. Thinking three-dimensionally and using rapidprototyping and laser cutting to create architectural structures. Whit this fact Har Lee won this years ‘ITS 8 Accessories Award’. How did you start your career? “I was unsure of what I wanted to do until I did a Foundation course in art and design at Camberwell college where I made the decision to study footwear. I studied a BA in Footwear and Accessories at Cordwainers College in 1999 and graduated in 2002. During my studies I did work experience for several places like Johnny Moke and a couple of independent bespoke shoe makers. I then worked in various roles in fashion, footwear, accessories and luxury interiors, including production assistant at Nicole Farhi, freelance designer and maker for independent fashion label LMNOP and couture assistant at Georgina Goodman. Eventually I wanted to concentrate on my own ideas for shoe design with a view to having my own label so I decided to apply for the masters course at the Royal College of Art. Now I am really happy being a freelance footwear designer and consultant as well as a tutor at Prescott and Mackay and London College of Fashion while working on my own label”. Where did you grew up and how was it like? “I was born and grew up in London, my parents ran a Chinese restaurant in Central London. I have a large family so it was always busy in our home with lots of food, noise and ornaments around. I am very close to my family and I learnt a lot from my parents and older siblings especially in terms of being resourceful and creative”. 170
Why the interest in design and especially shoes? How did it started? “I have always loved making, and been fascinated in how things are made- partly from watching my mother dressmaking at home. My family encouraged me to pursue my creative interests so I studied an Art Foundation. the decision to specialise in shoes came after I met Olivia Morris who was a visiting lecturer at Camberwell college and set us a shoe project. I discovered footwear to be an ideal mix of textiles and sculpture which were my strongest interests at the time. I did some work experience for a shoemaker friend and made my first pair of shoes, I went to have a look around Cordwainers college in Mare Street and made my application to study the BA in Footwear”. You studied at RCA, can you tell us more about your time there? “I had a great two years at the RCA. My personal tutor, Sue Saunders was also my BA tutor at Cordwainers, so I felt immediately comfortable, she has been an amazing guide and always given me the best advice and encouragement. I met some fantastic people who have become really great friends. The support from students and staff at the college was brilliant as well as the opportunities presented. I really benefited from cross discipline collaboration and learnt new skills that now influence my design, such as using 3D computer programmes. I had the privilege of having a one-to-one tutorial and critique with Manolo Blahnik which was such a memorable experience and definitely a high point in my life”.
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“I had the privilege of having a one-to-one tutorial and critique with Manolo Blahnik which was such a memorable experience.�
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Where do you find inspiration for your collections? “It changes all the time- and it can come from anywhere. It usually starts with a concept which could be to do with an image, place, or conversation that triggers off more ideas and it grows from there. I begin to research by gathering information and imagery, it gradually starts to from an image in my head and I then draw or experiment in 3D and eventually a collection starts to build up”. Can you tell us more about your latest collection? “My latest collection continues to explore structure and form. I am continuing to experiment with materials like wood, metal, plastic as well as leather. I want to make the new collection a bit softer although still keeping the ideas of structure and strong lines”. The materials and models you’re creating are quite inventive and eccentric? Why this choice? “My vision was to create something that was different to a conventional shoe, both in the way it was constructed and the aesthetics. The last collection I designed at the RCA was a natural progression of my work throughout my time at the college - I consider the work I produced over the two years as a continuous stream of ideas where each project was the next step from the previous project, and I think my work will continue on in this way. I wanted to introduce new types of skills and processes such as 3D computer technologies and laser cutting in contrast to the traditional ways that shoes are made.A few of the designs can be disassembled and flat packed- this was because I wanted to create a shoe that didn’t need a lot of components and used little or no glue to construct. Is it hard to create a tension between masculinity and femininity? “It took a while to get the right balance in the final products and sometimes it was difficult to step back and think about what I was trying to achieve with the collection. But it was also a massive learning curve as many of the materials and processes were completely new
to me. Although at times it was very stressful, I loved every minute of it so I wouldn’t say it was hard, but it did take time and focus”. What do you think of shoe design nowadays? “I’m very excited by shoe design nowadays, I think generally people are open to new ideas in footwear especially looking at how it has changed throughout history, and seeing it continue to change via a whole host of current footwear designers”. Favourite music during designing? “It changes depending on my moodand what stage I’m doing. It’s usually something upbeat and singy”. Most memorable fashion moment? “Meeting Manolo Blahnik- he was amazing. So inspirational, warm and encouraging..” If you were asked to design for a well known fashion house who would you like to work for? “I would love to work for Balenciaga, and I also love Margiela and Dries van Noten”. Most eccentric movie ever and why? “I watched a Space Odyssey recently which I got really into it. I thought the effects and general visuals were amazing, especially for the time it was made, and although I found it quite difficult to watch, I got totally engrossed and it stayed in my head a few days after watching it”. What are you future goals? “My future goals are to continue to develop my ideas in the next collection ready to show in early 2010. I hope to collaborate with other designers and companies and continue to developing new ideas”.
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the ejf sessions
Photography and text ERIC GUILLEMAIN
The first time I was asked to shoot portraits for EJF, I was wondering how I could embrace the cause while also apprehending it on a personal level. EJF was collecting funds by selling T-Shirts here. But what about the cause, the action ? Basically : Stopping the waste and piracy of earth resources. Protecting people and animals from being used as instruments of wills and desires. I was telling to myself. Well this is not just happening in foreign and exotic countries. With a closer look I could have seen it in my neighborhood, in my own life. Speaking about models whom I chose for wearing the T’s and speak for the cause. Some people think they are superficial beings, some others think they are surreal or so perfect they want to look like them. They worship them while others just manipulate them as disposable instruments in the big fashion machinery. So the visions are self centered, you just don’t want to look at these as they really are. You just make the real vanish by keeping up with the dream, the fantasy. As an aspiring photographer it made me rethink of my way to interact with them and to simply feel them. Most of all I was on my way to treat these girls and women with reverence and tenderness. Doing my best to shoot them like heroes rather than just instruments or merchandise. I would like to dedicate all the EJF portraits I made so far to Ruslana Korshunova. more info: www.ejfoundation.org
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Left page: DEVON AOKI T-shirt by ALICE for EJF Right page: CORY KENNEDY T-shirt by RICHARD NICOLL for EJF
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ALI MICHAEL T- shirt : RICHARD NICOLL for EJF
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KEMP MUHL wears T-shirt by JENNY PACKHAM for EJF
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LAKSHMI MENON T-shirt by JENNY PACKHAM for EJF
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IEKELIENE STANGE T-shirt by CIEL for EJF
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CITY SLICKERS 180
Yuri Pleskun by Jolijn Snijders
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www.ilovefakemagazine.com
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