NEW DIRECTIONS

While Peta Hunt says she would never presume to be a trendsetter, her perspective of what’s coming through is always a spot-on indication of the next chapter in bridal

One of the key trends – well, it’s a reality check really – will be off-the-peg, I believe. Let’s be honest, Needle & Thread, Self Portrait, Reformation, Wolf & Badger, Rixo, and Net A Porter are there for the onliners, and we have to acknowledge the existence of the bride who wants instant gratification.

To accommodate her, the girl who is short of time and needs a readyto-wear collection, this is all about simple shapes, flexible fitting, and thank goodness for lace-up-back dresses. The speedy no-fuss shopper

KELSEY ROSE HOUSE OF ST PATRICK

TEMPERLEY VESTAL JESUS PIERO

will love to browse, try and buy and I do believe that now is a great opportunity to update and utilise your previous season’s dresses that have been literally hanging around for the past year.

Bye bye sale rail, hello new upcycled, good-for-the-planet adapted dresses. By adding a bow, offering a pair of little puff sleeves, shortening to tea length, you have fresh-looking dresses, ready to go.

Think small

I also believe there will be many more small weddings – I think some people are quite comfy and relieved with reduced numbers, and the revival of the old school registry office wedding, followed by reception at a local hall, pub, or the bride’s parents’ house, is now much more acceptable (without a coronation chicken sandwich, please). It’s seen as modern, chic and ethical.

That doesn’t mean that bridesto-be are going to spend less on their dress, but they may be bringing fewer people with them when they’re selecting, and driving less miles from one shop to another because they are finally getting a social conscience about mileage versus a £20 discount on a dress somewhere 60 miles away.

So I do think we need plenty of city styles and registry office styles. Short dresses, tea length, trouser suits, separates and, for the more fashionforward bride, red carpet specials or giant tulle dresses. But remember, we are looking at some brides who are doing their registry office wedding and planning a second ‘do’ – a big

‘do’ – “when this is all over”. That’s two opportunities for retailers.

And there are new brides who have been glued to their laptops for the past 18 months and now feel they can create their own dress. This is where the value of offering separates comes into play, and gowns with add-ons and take-aways that enable them to pick and choose different elements. It’s not a new concept, but the new brideto-be will get an extra kick out of thinking she’s been actively involved in creating her dress.

In a swirl

The full-on ballgown will be, no pun intended, big news for the bride who wants to swish down the aisle. Whether the wedding is in a church, a barn, or on the beach, the big light modern ballgown is here to stay. Must-haves are pockets, and those

DEMETRIOS HALFPENNY LONDON

ELLIS BRIDALS

MARYLISE PRONOVIAS

KATE FERNLEY JUSTIN ALEXANDER SIGNATURE

MARCHESA PRONOVIAS

ALAN HANNAH

VERA WANG

gowns must be easy to move around in. I love the elegance of Rosa Clará, Ellis, Jesus Piero and Justin Alexander.

Elopement dressing is also coming into play. I think there are going to be many weddings in this bracket (minus ladders up against buildings). Heading off, lower numbers, some abroad, combining a wedding and honeymoon, boho in style, beach weddings, country weddings, or nuptials in a forest setting.

Lace, tulle and chiffon are key here and they travel well. Whether high neck or boho-inspired, lace is the eternal bridal fabric. Key looks for me are from KatyaKatya, Alice Temperley, The Bridal Collective (Enzoani), JLM and Maggie Sottero.

We are constantly bombarded by influences from TV series such as Bridgerton, The Crown, Halston (and will be from the forthcoming House of Gucci movie), as well as SATC. And we all love a royal-ish wedding – take Kitty Spencer getting married in Dolce&Gabbana, plus music artists

ALAN HANNAH Gwen Stefani and Ariana Grande – their choices recently all had an impact on Instagram and Pinterest. Be aware of the trend for short dresses and long veils, coloured dresses and big statement numbers.

I know these micro trends have been hot news on social channels – Vera Wang seems to be the US celebs’ favourite one again! Nice that we will be able to get her collab with Pronovias – it is important that we take advantage of these points of reference to speak to brides in person or via your social channels.

I do think veils are making a resurgence. They can turn a plain shift dress into a wedding gown in seconds and, of course, anyone into a bride. Mums love them, grannies weep at the sight of them, and they are hot right now. Halfpenny London, Alan Hannah, and Eliza Jane Howell all have stunning ones that add drama and work well on social media, too.

Conscience makers

Many companies are now making you aware of their ethical credentials and it is key to flag that up to your bride.

The term ‘fast fashion’ is now regarded as bad language, so knowing the manufacturing journey and sustainability of a dress is more important than ever. And you have an opportunity to explain why it’s good to buy certain dresses, showing that their fabric is either recycled, made from left over fabrics etc. Grace Loves Lace, Yolan Cris, Pronovias are the names. Bear this in mind: a quote

HAYLEY PAIGE

ANNA GEORGINA

from Pronovias creative director, Alessandra Rinaudo: “EDEN features a greater number of #WeDoEco dresses, strengthening the sustainable bridal initiative launched by Pronovias Group 2021. Crafted with specially developed, luxury eco fabrics and trims, they represent one more step forward in the company’s long-term plan to bring the bridal industry to higher sustainability standards.”

In the UK, we should celebrate our designers, too. I was fascinated to see the beading skills of the ladies at Alan Hannah – I barely can thread a needle without at least two pairs of glasses..

Sassi Holford, made in Somerset, Suzanne Neville, Savin London, Charlie Brear, Kate Halfpenny, Kate Fernley, Sabina Motesam, Andrea Hawkes, Kate Edmondson, Lucy Martin – these are all special names.

YOLAN CRISPRONOVIAS MIAMIA

KENNETH WINSTON

SASSI HOLFORD VESTAL HALFPENNY LONDON

Although it may not be a trend, I do think it is important to deal with companies that have a proven track record, are well established, and are nice to deal with.

Finishing touches

Beading and sparkle: I never tire looking at anything that that shimmers and shines, and that goes for jewellery, too. Next season’s sparkle gives a nod to retro styling but it’s less Gatsby, and more 80s banging disco, perfect for evening weddings and, dare we say, a second dress. Or just because you are a fabulous showoff. Thank you, Eliza Jane Howell and Jenny Packham for carrying the twinkle torch.

Of course, as a complete contrast to all the sparkle and lace, there is the bride who want it clean and simple. I love the understated luxury of heavy crêpe or a satin, but however simple, dresses need to be cut well. Charlie Brear, Jesus Peiro, Eva Lendel, Rish, Galvan (one quite London/New York/ LA centric collection) are my choice, and for sleek dresses that flatter, Justin Alexander, Suzanne Neville and Ellis all have heavy crêpe that skims beautifully.

Finally, I am still loving dresses with sleeves, puff sleeves, big sleeves, cap sleeves, tight sleeves, sheer sleeves, bell sleeves, off the shoulder sleeves, just sleeves.

Finally, finally, I am outing myself. I still love bridal.

LEONIE ELIZA JANE HOWELL

ELLIS BRIDALS

Visit us on stand Q1 at the Harrogate Bridal Show 12th-14th September for your chance to see the SS22 Collection. To enquire and make an appointment please email denise@galaxyagency.co.uk.

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