VIEWPOINT

We are in a perfect storm of unpleasant realities, including Brexit, post-covid patterns of shopping and the inexorable decline in the numbers of weddings. In 1972 there were 480,000 weddings whereas in 2019 there were 253,000. The market is, as always, oversupplied, and it seems sensible that the number of trade shows should be kept at a minimum when all these factors are considered. Otherwise, numbers of visitors to individual shows will continue to dwindle and there will be no real centre of gravity for the trade to coalesce around.

White Gallery was an amazing show when it was launched and gave designers a real stage on which to shine. It was a wonderful celebration of mainly British creativity and was a contrast to Harrogate, which was always the main event for the more commercial end of the industry.

These two shows worked well together because there wasn’t an overlap. Each show catered for a different constituency, and both did well. Gradually, two things happened. Manufacturers wanted a piece of the White Gallery action and started showing in adjacent venues, which began to muddy the waters. Secondly, UK designers gradually stopped showing as they probably found it cheaper to show in their own premises at the same time as the show.

Eventually, more obscure overseas labels seemed to take most of the floorspace along with the incorporation of London Bridal Week into the event.

It seems that matters have come to a head and it is unrealistic to expect the two-show model will continue. Ocean Media always put on a well organised and well publicised event but they cannot control the market forces that are at work, and it’s time to have a real debate about what the industry wants and needs. I’m sure they would be very happy to hear what exhibitors really want.

But, hold on, do exhibitors really know what they want either? I’m not sure. They definitely want a well-attended show that gives a good return on investment. But what is the way forward to achieve this?

Most retailers seem to prefer the Harrogate option and it also seems that there is more opportunity for networking, and a more relaxed timetable to buy there because most visitors stay for three days and enjoy the ambience of the town and its amenities.

So, does London offer a better location for overseas buyers? Yes, but unfortunately, we have to accept that Barcelona is the main focus for these buyers and while we should still try to attract them, we have to face the fact that we must secure a healthy well-attended show in the UK as our priority for UK buyers. If export orders are your main focus then I suggest that you have to exhibit somewhere else, as well. We must create excitement and anticipation around a once-a-year event which will encourage buyers to spend and create a compelling need to attend.

The factors I mentioned at the start of this piece that are shrinking our market are not going to go away, so we must recognise that the industry has to become more viable and evolve and strengthen. This will ensure that we continue to be strong, resilient and fit for purpose as we go forward.

If some manufacturers and designers want to exhibit twice a year, then I’m sure that Ocean Media will accommodate them, but it might be wiser to instigate a discussion and have exhibitors, retailers and organisers all singing from the same song sheet.

Unfortunately, there is no longer a representative supplier organisation, but it is still possible to undertake a wide survey of both retailers and suppliers to understand what is needed and required.

I would suggest that a one show scenario is the correct way to proceed at this time. This may change in the future but it’s imperative that the industry does not become more atomised than it is at present and that the British bridal industry remains a recognisable entity.