Red de senderos de Fuerteventura (inglés) by Departamento de Imagen

GR速 131 Fuerteventura Trail Network

Fuerteventura Trail Network

GR速 131

Production and Coordination Arqueofuer, estudios patrimoniales Text María Castañeyra Ruiz und Noelia Sánchez Argüez Photography and Digital Photography Processing Alicia Padrón Alberto Bird photography: Department of the Environment of the Island Council of Fuerteventura - Unidad de Medio Ambiente del Cabildo de Fuerteventura (pages 15, 65, 71, 76 and 94) Photography of the inside of the Ermita de Diego chapel: Department of Cultural Heritage of the Island Council of Fuerteventura - Unidad de Patrimonio Cultural del Cabildo de Fuerteventura (page 49) Cartography Maps from the National Geographic Institute of Spain (Spanish abbreviation: IGN): Rosa López Guerrero

Published by Island Council of Fuerteventura - Cabildo de Fuerteventura First edition: 2013 Design and Layout GayriaStudio, S.L. Legal deposit: GC.690-2014 Printers Imprenta Gran Tarajal

ATTENTION: The information provided in this guide of hiking trails may have been slightly altered; therefore you could find changes in the itineraries, the sign-posting and the maintenance of the same. On discovering any damage on the tracks or any mistake in the texts, please report them to us at the following email address: medioambiente@cabildofuer.es

Fuerteventura Trail Network

GR速 131

Table of Contents

Prologue

Introduction

Location

Origin, Formation and Topography

Climate

Flora and Fauna

Protected Natural Areas

MIDE (Spanish abbreviation: Method for information on excursions)

Recommendations for your stay in the heart of the countryside

GR® 131

Stretch 1 | Isla de Lobos Lime Kilns

30 33

Stretch 2 | Corralejo - La Oliva Lichens

36 38

Stretch 3 | La Oliva - Tefía La Casa Alta de Tindaya (Literally: High House of Tindaya) Miguel de Unamuno

Stretch 4 | Tefía - Betancuria The Philanthropic Hostel of Tefía

45 47

Stretch 5 | Betancuria - Pájara The Pine Grove of Betancuria

49 53

43 43

Stretch 6 | Pájara - La Pared Flora Geomorphology

54 56 57

Stretch 7 | La Pared - Risco del Paso The Prisoners’ Route

58 61

Stretch 8 | Risco del Paso - Morro Jable Geomorphology Fauna

62 64 65

Stretch 9 | Morro Jable - Punta de Jandía Jandía Teasel

66 69

PR®

PR®-FV 1 | Barranco de la Cañada de Melián Esquinzo Windmills

PR®-FV 9 | Tindaya - Vallebrón - Tefía Spurges

76 79

PR®-FV 15 y 15.1 | Tetir - Tefía PR®-FV 15 | Tetir - Casillas del Ángel - Tefía PR®-FV 15.1 | Tetir - Degollada de Facay - Tefía “Gavias” (Traditional Irrigation Systems)

80 81 83 85

PR®-FV 54 | Morro Jable - Pico de la Zarza The Canarian Egyptian vulture

86 88

PR®-FV 55 | Gran Valle - Cofete “Apañadas” (Gathering of Goat Tribes) The legend of the Villa ‘Winter’

89 92 93

PR®-FV 56 | El Puertito - Caleta de la Madera El Puertito Runways

SL®

SL®-FV 2 | Calderón Hondo - Lajares Ice plants

100 102

SL®-FV 27 | Vega de Río Palmas - Presa de las Peñitas Presa de las Peñitas (Las Peñitas Reservoir)

104 107

SL®-FV 28 | Agua de Bueyes - Vega de Río Palmas 108 Cochineal 111 SL®-FV 29 | Antigua - Betancuria The Mafasca Light

112 114

SL®-FV 31 | Tiscamanita - Vega de Río Palmas Watermills

116 118

SL®-FV 53 | Cardón - El Tanquito Istmo de La Pared (La Pared Isthmus)

119 121

Glossary

122

Location maps

128

Prologue

This new guide of the hiking trails on Fuerteventura is for those who truly value the environment and the natural resources the island has to offer. Each and every kilometre of this trail network enable hikers to discover the warmth of the landscapes of Fuerteventura. Each route and each indication about itineraries are opportunities to boost the rural environment and spread the values of our natural and social history. For the last few years, significant work has been carried out on the landscape in order to preserve the elements which characterise life in Fuerteventura‘s rural environment. We have made a step forward in the care and knowledge of natural species, in the spreading of environmental values, in keeping the environment clean and in fighting against erosion. Following this trend of defending the island‘s characteristics, we have committed ourselves to promoting the declaration of Fuerteventura Biosphere Reserve and the proposal of the National Park of Zonas Áridas of Fuerteventura. The knowledge of our natural environment through the trail network is the best way to guarantee progress in this approach. Welcome to our Fuerteventura trails.

Mario Cabrera González President of the Island Council of Fuerteventura

Natalia Évora Soto Counsellor of Presidency, Environment and Transports of the Island Council of Fuerteventura

Introduction ŪŪ Location ŪŪ Origin, Formation and Topography ŪŪ Climate ŪŪ Flora and Fauna

La Zarza peak, JandĂa

Introducci贸n

Introduction

The GR-131 is part of an international trail which crosses the island of Fuerteventura, from north to south, from Corralejo down to the Punta de Jand铆a, and including Lobos Island. Throughout its approximate 255 kilometres which are divided in different stretches i.e. great routes (GR), small routes (PR) and local trails (SL), this network displays to visitors a singular showcase of landscapes and culture. While in many places of the world outdoor activities must be put on hold during the winter, the eternal spring that reigns in Fuerteventura makes it possible to practice any kind of sport and be in contact with nature all-year-round. Both the signposting throughout the itinerary and the edition of this topographic guide are there to encourage leisure and sports activities in a 100% natural environment.

Location Located in the east of the Canarian archipelago and only 100 kilometres away from the African coast, Fuerteventura is the most extensive island of its province and the second of the Canaries, just after Tenerife. The GR-131 starts its course on Lobos Island, a small enclave northeast of Fuerteventura and only 2 kilometres from the coast.

Origin, Formation and Topography

According to several sources, Fuerteventura is the oldest island of the whole archipelago. It is approximately 23 million years old and has experienced many volcanic eruptions throughout its geological history. It is therefore characterised by the variety of its shapes and materials. Some of these materials appeared in the early stages of the formation of the island and are clearly visible in a massif in the centre of the island, the

Introducci贸n

Lobos Island

Macizo de Betancuria. The current topography is representative of an advanced stage of maturity. The severe erosive processes have strongly

Betancuria massif

dismantled and eroded the lands of Fuerteventura and have turned it into an island with extensive low-lying plains showing

Introducción

very small local relief. Its maximum height is reached by Pico de la Zarza, a peak that is 807 metres high. The island was formerly called Planaria, among other names, which shows it is an island characterised by vast plains.

Climate Fuerteventura is identified by its intense aridness which is due both to its geographical location and its low relief surface. Its dryness is defined by the island’s low altitude. The trade winds cross the land leaving very limited amounts of rain. Only Jandía and Betancuria show differences in comparison with the rest of the island, because more clouds gather there given they are at the highest points of the island. The aridness of Fuerteventura finds its origin in a frequent phenomenon which also takes place on the other islands but has more impact on the eastern islands: the Calima (hot dry wind). Because it is so close to the African coast, the dust generated by sand storms of the Sahara reaches the island carried by the sirocco. Together, these factors create a marvellous climate that hardly changes throughout the year and with an average temperature of 21ºC.

View of the El Jable covered by Calima 12

Introducción

Flora and Fauna The limited and irregular rainfall, the great amount of sunshine and the high temperatures determine the vegetal and animal life of the island. Flora Fuerteventura presents quite poor vegetation; there are no forests. This is mainly due to the lack of rain and the intense grazing the island was subject to for centuries. Although plants are not abundant, Fuerteventura shelters many endemic species, some of which have disappeared from most of the planet. The most frequent plant formation encountered is the thorn scrub which extends both on plains and hills. Gorse (launaea arborescens) is one of the most abundant species we can find. It is sometimes accompanied by European teatree (Lycium intricatum), the shrubby sea-blite (Suaeda vera) and the Mediterranean saltwort (Salsola vermiculata). Verodes (Kleinia neriifolia) and spurges (Euphorbia spp.) predominate in particular areas and are typical plants found in the Canaries. There is also an endemic species of teasel from Fuerteventura that can only be found on some specific areas of the south of the island: the Jandía teasel (Euphorbia handiensis). On Fuerteventura, you will often see Canarian palm tree (Phoenix canariensis) and tamarisk (Tamarix canariensis) groves. In the highlands of the island, isolated examples of thermophilic woods, wild olive trees (Olea cerasiformis) and Atlantic pistachios (Pistacia atlantica) can be found. Succulent plants, such as the slenderleaf ice plant Spurge (Euphorbia canariensis) (Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum) and the common ice plant (M. crystallinum) are well represented, colouring large areas red as the summer gets closer. In sandy areas near the coast, the most representative species are the bean caper (Zygophyllum fontanesii), shrubs known in Spanish as “balancones” (Traganum moquinii) and the sea spurge (Euphorbia paralias). Inland, you will mostly see what on

Introducción

the island is commonly called the ‘small heart’ (Lotus lancerottensis) and the plant named ‘white salt’ by the locals (Polycarpaea nivea) in the sandy areas. Fuerteventura has good salt marshes, areas which are regularly flooded by the tide that have become a significant place for birds. In this habitat, together with other species, you will find a dense scrubland mainly composed of species that belong to the Suaeda and Salsola genera known in Spanish as “salados” meaning ‘salties’ as they are confined to saline or alkaline soil habitats. In the high areas of Jandía you can find endemic species such as the Canary Island daisy (Asteriscus sericeus), the Argyranthemum winterii, known in Spanish as the ‘Jandía daisy’, and the Echium handiense, a small-medium shrub known as “tajinaste de Jandía” in Spanish. It is also important to highlight the presence of lichens which are widespread. They are very abundant in the karst or malpais regions where they form crusts on the rocks. Last but not least, there are certain species which Salt marsh in Morro Jable have been introduced into Fuerteventura’s environment and have perfectly adapted to its climate. Among them are the wild tobacco (Nicotiana glauca), prickly pears (Opuntia spp.), American aloe (Agave americana) and henequens (A. fourcroydes). Fauna Invertebrates are the best represented taxonomic group on the island; a special interest arose as far as insects are concerned.

Among the vertebrates, birds are the most representative, given they have the widest range of species. Steppe birds such as the great bustard or Canarian houbara (Chlamydotis undu-

Introducción

lata fuertaventurae) can be observed on the plains of Fuerteventura. In alluvial are-

Canarian houbara

as and ravines, you will find the Canary Island stonechat (Saxicola dacotiae), a small perching bird only to be encountered on Fuerteventura. The Canarian Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus majorensis), the only vulture of the Canary Islands, finds its main refuge in the mountains of the Fuerteventura. Amongst sea birds, the most common are the cory’s shearwater (Calonectris diomedea) as a nesting bird and the little egret (Egretta garzeta) as a migratory bird. Reptiles are the second most significant animal group. Among them, you will see the

Henequen and prickly pears

Introducción

Atlantic lizard (Gallotia atlantica), the East Canary gecko (Tarentola angustimentalis) with a significant number of the species, and the Chalcides simonyi, a rare species of skink which is more robust than the first two but much less common. Amphibians are only represented by two species of frogs that were introduced by humans: the Iberian water frog (Rana perezi) and the Mediterranean treefrog (Hyla meridionalis), which need damp areas to survive. Finally, the mammals found on the island have mainly been introduced, deliberately or accidently by man, except for the Kuhl’s pipistrelle (Pipistrellus kuhlii) and the Canarian shrew (Crocidura canariensis). Among the domesticated animals, the most common are goats, sheep, dromedaries and donkeys. Non-domesticated animals are present all around the island; among them, the North African hedgehog (Atelerix algirus) and the Barbary ground squirrel (Atlantoxerus getulus) are species that have recently been introduced from Africa.

Majorero donkey

Protected Natural Areas

MalpaĂs de la Arena (La Oliva)

Espacios Naturales Protegidos

Protected Natural Areas

According to the Canarian Network of Natural Areas, 47,695 hectares of the island of Fuerteventura are covered by 13 Protected Natural Areas:

Natural Park • Lobos Island Natural Park • Corralejo Natural Park • Jandía Natural Park

Rural Park • Betancuria Rural Park

Natural Monument 20

• Natural Monument of Malpaís de La Arena • Natural Monument of Montaña Tindaya

Espacios Naturales Protegidos

• • • •

Natural Monument of Caldera de Gairía Natural Monument of Cuchillos de Vigán Natural Monument of Montaña Cardón Natural Monument of Ajuí

Protected Landscape • Protected Landscape of Malpaís Grande • Protected Landscape of Vallebrón

Site of Scientific Interest • Site of Special Scientific Interest of Playa del Matorral

Moreover, the whole territory of Fuerteventura was declared Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO on May 26, 2009.

MIDE (Spanish abbreviation: method for information on excursions) ŪŪ Assessment of the difficulty ŪŪ Basic information ŪŪ Recommendations for you stay in the countryside

Trail, Stretch 9

MIDE

MIDE (Spanish abbreviation: method for information on excursions) The MIDE is a communication system among hikers. It is a grading scale that includes the technical and physical difficulties of the routes, and classifies them for better information. Its goal is to assess the difficulty of excursions so that each hiker can choose what route s/he wishes to go on. The MIDE comprises two blocks of information: â&#x20AC;˘ Assessment (from 1 to 5 points, 1 being the least and 5 the most) of four aspects of difficulty that are interpreted in the following table. â&#x20AC;˘ Basic information on each route. Example of MIDE

Stretch 2 Duration Expected

8 hrs.

Highest Point

293 m

Lowest Point

13 m

Approx. Total Distance 25,9 km Type of Route

Profile

Straight to a Destination

Severity of the Natural Environment 1 Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

MIDE

Environment Severity of the Natural Environment 1

not without risks

one risk factor

several risk factors

quite a few risk factors

many risk factors

Itinerary Orientation of the Itinerary 1

well-defined paths and crossroads

route or signposting that indicate the continuity

requires a precise identification of geographical features and cardinal points

4 5

requires navigation away from the main track navigation interrupted by obstacles to skirt

Hike Difficulty of the Hike 1 2 3 4 5

smooth surface horse trail stepped trails or irregular grounds use of hands or jumping required to maintain balance use of hands required to keep going

Effort Effort Required 1

up to 1 hr of effective walking

2 3

more than more than walking more than walking more than

4 5

1 hr and up to 3 hrs (2+1) of effective walking 3 hrs and up to 6 hrs (3+2+1) of effective 6 hrs and up to 10 hrs (4+3+2+1) of effective 10 hrs of effective walking

The MIDE is recommended by the Spanish Federation of Mountain and Climbing Sports (Spanish abbreviation: FEDME) For more information, please visit www.euromide.info

MIDE

Recommendations for your stay in the countryside • Do not leave or bury garbage. • Do not light fires, except in authorised areas. • Respect the trails and avoid shortcuts because they encourage erosion and can break the original marking of the path. • Do not forget that motorised vehicles may circulate on some of the routes. • Close gates, fences, barriers, etc. that you open to prevent livestock or wild animals from entering or escaping. • Do not camp in the open unless respecting the assigned areas to do so. • Do not pick flowers or branches in your surroundings as you could be taking a specimen of endangered plant species. • Do not make too much noise not to disturb animals. • Plan your excursion well ahead by doing the actual time calculations. • Always take enough water and ready-to-eat food supplies with you if you are going on a long hike. • Do not forget simple things such as: a cap, sunglasses and sun screen. • Take a cell phone with you and remember the general emergency number is 112.

MIDE

Signposting on the GR

Correct Direction

Change of Direction

Wrong Direction

Signposting on the PR

Correct Direction

Change of Direction

Wrong Direction

Signposting on the SL

Correct Direction

Change of Direction

Wrong Direction

Las Peñitas reservoir, Vega de Río Palmas

GR速 131

Stretch 1 | Isla de Lobos

Map 2

Stretch 1

Isla de Lobos

Stretch 1 Duration Expected 1 hr. 30 min. 23 m

Highest Point

Lowest Point Approx. Total Distance Type of Route

3,5 km

Severity of the Natural Environment 1 Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Straight to a Destination

Profile

La Calera beach

GR® 131

Stretch 1 | Isla de Lobos

Lobos Island, declared a Natural Park, is located in the Bocaina strait which separates the islands of Fuerteventura and Lanzarote. The first stretch of the GR-131 starts from that islet, so you can already imagine the singularity of this beautiful enclave. To access this atypical stretch, you will have to take a boat from the port of Corralejo. During this journey, you will enjoy an agreeable trip through the strait known as El Río, then disembark at El Muelle, a wharf which allows its visitors to come and go; this is where the first stretch of the GR-131 begins. From here, there are two paths; you will take the one to the left as the one to the right leads to the small houses near the harbour known as Casas del Puertito and they are beyond our GR.

Reservoir

You will then follow the trail and cross karst or malpais which presents very little vegetation until you reach the Playa de Calera, a beach where you will be fascinated by the colours of the sea. The trail then leaves on its left the Caldera de la Montaña, a 127-metre-high volcanic cone, which you will be able to ascend by the different tracks you will find along the way. The striking green of the balsam spurge (Euphorbia balsamifera) will draw your attention. It is present on both sides of the trail and

GR速 131

Stretch 1 | Isla de Lobos

Boat Timetable The daily frequency of trips varies from high season to low season.

Summer timetable

(From July 15, to September 30) Corralejo Lobos Island 10:00 | 11:00* | 12:00 | 13:00 | 15:30 | 16:30 | 17:15* Lobos Island Corralejo 10:15 | 11:15* | 12:15 | 13:45 | 16:00 | 17:00 | 18:00*

Winter timetable

(From October 1, to July 14) Corralejo Lobos Island 10:00 | 12:00 | 13:00 | 15:30 | 16:30* Lobos Island Corralejo 10:15 | 12:15 | 13:45 | 16:00 | 17:00* The times marked with an asterisk (*) must be confirmed at the ticket office or on the boat.

Marti単o lighthouse

Stretch 1 | Isla de Lobos

GR® 131

throughout the whole itinerary. You will finally walk towards the small cove known as Caleta de la Madera, which you will skirt to end up at the foot of the Martiño lighthouse. We can offer you an alternative return route: It leaves from the foot of the Martiño lighthouse and also leads to El Muelle. You will clearly distinguish it when arriving at a crossroads at the end of this stretch. This trail will take you to the Lagunitas salt marsh, where you cannot miss the houseleek Limonium ovalifolium ssp. canariense. This plant is a Canarian endemism which is very rare as it seems to be found only on Lobos Island. In addition, you will find different reservoirs and lime kilns along the way. These constructions were used by the locals to best exploit their limited resources.

Lime kilns Lime has been produced on Fuerteventura from the 16th century, even though most of the lime kilns you can witness nowadays were built at the end of the 19th century, when the activity was at its peak. The production of lime became really significant on the island which was the first to commercialise it, on both Fuerteventura and the other islands of the archipelago. This was partly due to the fact that this activity does not rely on rainfall and therefore did not suffer from the crisis that draughts caused to other financial activities of the island. Lime was obtained from limestone which was heated to between 900ºC and 1000ºC, and broke down to form calcium oxide, also called quicklime. In order to reach such high temperatures, the locals used kilns that are still preserved in many areas of the island. On Fuerteventura, there are two clearly differentiated types of kilns: industrial kilns, fuelled by coal and domestic woodburning kilns. The size depends on the type of kiln. However, in both cases, they are long truncated cone shaped and have a door or a side opening on the bottom part.

Industrial Limekilns This type of limekiln was mainly used for exportation of lime, as the combustion could last longer and the production was greater than that of domestic limekilns. These kilns were loaded with coal from the top using stairs or ramps. Using coal meant that production could be increased. However, this same mineral also sometimes condemned the production, as it is an

GR速 131

Stretch 1 | Isla de Lobos

element that cannot be found on the island; therefore when there was no supply, the producers were forced to use domestic kilns.

Domestic Limekilns The making process was totally different from industrial limekilns and the production smaller, given it used dry gorse (Launaea arborescens), a thorny shrub widely spread on the island.

Stretch 1 | Isla de Lobos

GR速 131

Their outside appearance is similar to industrial kilns, but the most obvious difference is that domestic kilns do not have a door but a side opening, approximately one-metre long, that reaches from the floor to its maximum height. Pressed gorse and limestone were loaded through that opening. Nowadays, the lime cottage industry has almost disappeared and the remains of the kilns are a memory of an activity that was deeply rooted and a tradition that lies in the heart of the people of Fuerteventura.

Industrial limekiln

GR速 131

Stretch 2 | Corralejo - La Oliva

Map 3

Stretch 2

Corralejo - La Oliva

Stretch 2 Duration Expected

8 hrs.

Highest Point

293 m

Lowest Point

13 m

Approx. Total Distance 25,9 km Type of Route

Severity of the Natural Environment 1 Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Straight to a Destination

Profile

The second stretch of the GR-131 starts in the town centre of Corralejo. You will leave from Plaza Patricio Calero onto Calle La Milagrosa. You will then turn right to ascend Calle Lepanto until you reach Avenida Juan Carlos I. Then, you will turn towards the left along the avenue until you get to a roundabout with a sculpture of a boat. Different sports are represented on the sail of this boat. Your path continues on the first exit and a few metres further on you will take the second street on your right and continue to a municipal water reservoir. If you turn round to take a look at your surroundings, you will see how close the island of Lanzarote looks and you will notice Lobos Island, an islet whose beauty enhances the immensity of the Atlantic Ocean. You will walk through the karst or malpais, which

Stretch 2 | Corralejo - La Oliva

GR® 131

Path across the karst or malpais

is the remaining evidence of eruptions of the Bayuyo volcanoes about 185,000 years ago, until you reach the foot of the Rebanada caldera, where your route coincides with the SL-FV 2 Lajares-Calderón Hondo. You will find the path around the Rebanada caldera smooth as it leads you, through Calle Juanita, to the village of Lajares. At the intersection of Los Cascajos and Majanicho streets, your path will once more coincide with the SL-FV 2 and lead to the football field of Lajares, where the SL-FV 2 ends and your way goes on. Cross the secondary road to enter Calle Los Quemados, and follow that street to the end, then turn left. Once you have passed the last houses, you will be surrounded by volcanic scenery. Go past the Tejate slopes towards the natural monument Malpaís de la Arena, which is almost completely covered with lichens. Then go across the karst or malpais to enter the town centre of La Oliva. To reach the central part of the town, go through Calle Las Navajas until you reach a crossroads. On your right, you will see the Casa del Inglés (literally the Englishman’s

37 Casa del Inglés (literally: the Englishman’s House)

GRÂŽ 131

Stretch 2 | Corralejo - La Oliva

house), a fine example of an 18th century house owned by the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rural bourgeoisie. To finish this stretch, turn towards the right to catch the secondary road FV-10 that will lead you to Plaza de la Iglesia de La Oliva.

Lichens Lichens were, for centuries, one of the main sources of wealth of the island. The orchil lichen (Roccela spp.) was particularly valued for the natural dark brown-coloured dye obtained from it. It is composed of filaments that come out of a basis firmly stuck to the rock on which the plant grows and forms bundles of somewhat tangled threads. From the conquest to the beginning of the 20th century, it was exported to European markets to make natural purple dyes which were used for the textile industry. It even became one of the most significant exportations of materials in the history of Fuerteventura.

La Arena karst

Stretch 2 | Corralejo - La Oliva

GR速 131

Orchil lichen

GR® 131

Stretch 3 | La Oliva - Tefía

Map 4

Stretch 3

La Oliva - Tefía

Stretch 3 Duration Expected 6 hrs. 30 min.

Severity of the Natural Environment 1

Highest Point

242 m

Orientation of the Itinerary

Lowest Point

144 m

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Approx. Total Distance 16,85 km

Type of Route

Straight to a Destination

Profile

Quemada mountain

Stretch 3 | La Oliva - Tefía

GR® 131

This stretch starts in La Oliva, or more precisely in Plaza de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria. You will head towards Calle Orilla and turn to the right onto Calle La Nobleza. Follow this street until you reach an intersection where you will find a petrol station. Once you have crossed the secondary road, go towards the first street on your right. At the end of this street you will see many henequen plantations (Agave fourcroydes). Once there, go left and you will gradually leave the urban area of La Oliva behind and follow an earthern track which crosses an unused agricultural area. Then follow the course of the ra-

Tindaya and henequens

GR® 131

Stretch 3 | La Oliva - Tefía

El Risco ravine

vine of Montaña La Oliva to approach the Montaña Sagrada de Tindaya. This holy mountain seems to appear out of nowhere in the middle of the plain; it stands out because of its particular shape, sculpted by time, and its unusual colour. Skirt round it to the west and there is a possibility of reaching its summit by an ascending trail. However, a special permit from the Island Council of Fuerteventura is required to do so. This section goes on to the village of Tindaya. In order to access the village, go through Calle Virgen de La Caridad; it will lead you to the Ermita de Tindaya. This chapel is the starting point of the PRFV 9 Tindaya-Vallebrón-Tefía. From here, the route crosses the settlement, and will take you to the Casa Alta (see below). The route then goes south on an earthern track which will take you towards the Montaña Quemada. You will see the white statue of Miguel Unamuno on the side of the mountain. The trail continues leaving the area of El Santo Lirio on the left to reach the Barranco del Risco where you will cross the secondary road FV-207. You will walk eastwards for about a kilometre and then turn right to reach the Casa del Cordobés (literally: the Cordovan House). This house marks the meeting point between Stretch 3 and the PR-FV 9. Both routes head down south, between the Tablero de la Avutarda and the Rincón de la Hija, down to Tefía. You will enter this village on reaching the crossroads where you will turn left. Next, take the second street on your left and you will arrive at the Ermita de San Agustín. This stretch ends on your arrival at this chapel.

Stretch 3 | La Oliva - Tefía

GR® 131

La Casa Alta de Tindaya (the High House of Tindaya) This house owes its name to that fact that it was the first two-storey house in Tindaya. The legend tells us that a man from Tindaya wanted to build a house which would be different from the others, which would stand out and be seen from far away by travellers. With a lot of effort, sacrifice and perseverance, he managed to build the highest house of Tindaya. Once his work was finished, he was so proud of it, he climbed a mountain opposite the village (we suppose it was La Muda mountain) to behold his master-piece. However, his joy did not last long, as the inhabitants of Tindaya, who were worried because he had not got back by nightfall, set out to look for him, only to find him dead. Thus, according to oral tradition, the Casa Alta is bewitched.

Casa Alta (literally: the high house) in renovation

Miguel de Unamuno Miguel de Unamuno was a Spanish writer; he is considered by many as one of the most outstanding Spanish thinkers of our time. He was born in Bilbao in 1864 and died in Salamanca in 1936. He belonged to the 98 Generation, which included: Juan Ramón Jiménez, José Martínez Ruiz, better known by his pseudonym “Azorín”, Ramón del Valle Inclán, Leopoldo Alas known as “Clarín” (the clarion), Antonio and Manuel Machado. Although he was named chancellor of the University of Salamanca, he was obliged to resign from his academic position in 1914 due to his many attacks against the monarchy of Alfonso XIII. Ten years later, his confrontation with the dictatorship of 43

GR® 131

Stretch 3 | La Oliva - Tefía

Miguel Primo de Rivera was the reason for his exile to Fuerteventura, where he stayed for four months, from March to July. In this short period of time, the Basque writer and thinker discovered the beauty of the place and its people. He even wrote that if he could not be buried in his homeland, his remains should lie in Montaña Quemada, where a monument was raised to honour his memory. From this experience, he wrote a collection of sonnets De Fuerteventura a París, published in Paris in 1925. He later moved to France, where he lived in voluntary exile until 1930, the year Primo de Rivera’s regime collapsed; he then went back to Salamanca to return to his duties as chancellor and did not leave his position until his death.

GR® 131

Stretch 4 | Tefía - Betancuria

Map 5

Stretch 4

Tefía - Betancuria

Stretch 4 Duration Expected 6 hrs. 30 min.

Severity of the Natural Environment 2

Highest Point

606 m

Orientation of the Itinerary

Lowest Point

149 m

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Approx. Total Distance 17,15 km

Type of Route

Straight to a Destination

Profile

Ecomuseo de La Alcogida

GR® 131

Stretch 4 | Tefía - Betancuria

Stretch 4 begins at the cultural centre of Tefía. You will walk for about a kilometre until you reach the Ecomuseo de La Alcogida. In this eco-museum you can learn about the old habits and customs of the island. From here, go north-east until you get to a windmill whose distinction is to have six blades, whilst most of the windmills of Fuerteventura only have four. Keep walking in the same direction for 250 metres and turn left to cross the secondary road FV-22. 1. You will then go along a large plain until reaching Montaña Bermeja. The reddish colour of this mountain stands out among the different reddish tones that characterize the island. Its stone has traditionally been used for the construction of different kinds of buildings, as you will witness in several houses in Tefía. The path follows south-eastwards until you reach the village of Los Llanos de la Concepción. Go through the village following the milestones until you reach the next village: Valle de Santa Inés. You will get there via an asphalted track you must follow for about 1.5 kilometres to then take an earthern track on the left. Once you have walked past the last houses of Valle de Santa Inés, you will enter an important agricultural area and you will climb up to a scenic viewpoint. Looking down, you will see the

46 Guise and Ayose

Stretch 4 | Tefía - Betancuria

GR® 131

sculptures of two „majos“. The two aborigines Guise and Ayose witnessed how nature inevitably but patiently eroded the relief of Fuerteventura, giving the island its rounded hills which highlights the oldest materials of the Canarian archipelago.

Canary Island daisy

You will then cross the secondary road FV-30 to start your descent between bushes of what in Spanish is known as ‘wild’ spurges (Euphorbia regis-jubae), acacias (Acacia spp.) and some Canary Island daisies (Asteriscus sericeus) until you reach what was the first Franciscan convent of the Canary Islands. Continue along Calle Presidente Hormiga for 300 metres to then turn right and, after a bend, you will arrive at a crossroads where you will go straight on to reach the church square which is the final destination of this stretch: Plaza de la Iglesia de Santa María de Betancuria.

The Philanthropic Hostel of Tefía The philanthropic hostel of Tefía, located in the middle of a plain close to the village of Tefía, looks inhospitable at first glance but hides a secret history that captivates anyone who knows it. The first airport of Fuerteventura was built on this plain and the first plane landed here in 1942. It was owned by the Spanish Air Force and carried a company of aviation soldiers who were temporarily accommodated in a wooden barrack. Ten years after its first flight, the airport of Tefía was closed due to bad weather conditions (strong gusts of wind) and was transferred to Los Estancos, a village near the capital. The airport facilities became the property of the Ministry of Justice that used the premises to establish a prison farm, known as the “Colony of the Idle and Miscreants”. Sadly, this precinct not only received recidivists and rebels, but also a hundred homosexuals, their only crime being the recognition of their sexual orientation. They came from all the Canary Islands and were confined from 1954 to 1966. At the beginning of 1972, soldiers used the place for military purposes. During the “Maxorata-72” manoeuvre, the Parachute 47

GR® 131

Stretch 4 | Tefía - Betancuria

Brigade landed on the plain of Tefía and the intense strength of the wind that blows on the island dragged the soldiers causing 13 deaths. Because of this unfortunate event, a monument was built in the area in honour of the 13 parachutists, together with a headstone with the names of the deceased. The year after, the Island Council acquired the facilities to create an experimental farm. Nowadays, it has become a hostel, where many activities are carried out. It also embraces the facilities of Fuerteventura’s Astronomical Society Observatory, which stands out for its spherical-shaped architecture. All in all, you will discover that this is a place that has undergone many changes throughout history and that has adapted to new times.

GR® 131

Stretch 5 | Betancuria - Pájara

Map 6

Stretch 5

Betancuria - Pájara

Stretch 5 Duration Expected 7 hrs. 30 min.

Severity of the Natural Environment 2

Highest Point

665 m

Orientation of the Itinerary

Lowest Point

205 m

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Approx. Total Distance 16,4 km Type of Route

Straight to a Destination

Profile

You will begin Stretch 5 of the GR-131 in Betancuria, the former seigniorial capital of Fuerteventura. This stretch shares its route with the SL-FV 29 Antigua-Degollada del Marrubio-Betancuria for 1.7 kilometres. You will leave from Plaza de la Iglesia de Santa María de Betancuria and walk to the Casa de los Beneficiados. From this house, you will descend 150 metres on a paved path to end up on the secondary road FV-30. Cross that road and, a few steps away, you will encounter the double-waterwheel extracting system of Pozo de los Peña, which has recently been restored. You will continue through a traditional cultivation area of the island where on both sides of the trail you will see „gavias“, traditional irrigation systems, typical of Fuerteventura and

GR® 131

Stretch 5 | Betancuria - Pájara

Los Padrones house

Lanzarote. You will then ascend continuously, guided by rows of agaves (Agave americana), to the Degollada del Marrubio (gorge commonly known as Degollada de la Villa). On reaching this gorge, the SL-FV 29 pulls away from our route to go towards Antigua. Stretch 5 then goes towards the south and after a 600-metre walk, you must turn right to enter a newly planted pine grove that contrasts with the rest of the island where trees are comparatively scarce. You will see on your way that there are mainly pine trees (Pinus canariensis, P. halepensis, P. radiata) but also, to a lesser extent, other species such a wild olive tree locally known as acebuche (Olea cerasiformis), acacias (Acacia cyclops, A. cyanophyla), fruit trees, etc.

A bit further on, you will reach a picnic area. Go up the stone steps; they will take you to the Casa de los Padrones, from which you can make out the houses of Vega de Río Palmas. You will then go down until you reach the outskirts of the Aula de la Naturaleza de Parra Medina. After passing this Nature Study Centre, go south-eastwards onto a tar-track to enter the Barranco de Palomares. The presence of prickly pear plantations (Opuntia spp.) is quite impressive on the side of this ravine. These plants, of Mexican origin, were once used to cultivate carmine dye (Dactylopius coccus).

GR® 131

Stretch 5 | Betancuria - Pájara

The trail continues through the ravine until it reaches a small tunnel. At the end of the tunnel you will find yourself in the Barranco de Río Palmas. Keep walking in the ravine for 1.5 kilometres. On its sides, there are many traditional water harvesting systems known as „gavias“ and some trees and plants such as the Canarian palm tree (Phoenix canariensis) and tamarisks (Tamarix canariensis). After this stretch, our GR meets the SL-FV 2 Vega de Río Palmas-Presa de las Peñitas. About 500 metres further on, there is a bridge with a series of arcades. You will have to turn right onto the secondary road FV-323 to leave the ravine. Both trails continue for half a kilometre, where the SL-FV 27 leaves our route on an earthern track and the GR goes on by the road that borders the reservoir named Presa de las Peñitas. The abundant vegetation that surrounds the reservoir is quite surprising for an island as arid as Fuerteventura. You will see there is a particularly outstanding tamarisk grove which is the home of a significant variety of insects. These bugs are very attractive for birds who find shelter in this small wood. You will then walk away from the reservoir to enter the Valle de los Granadillos; there are several types of traditional cultivation systems in this ravine: the „gavias“ at the bottom of the ravine, „cadenas“ on the slopes and „nateros“ which are perpendicular to the ravine bed. After an ascent of approximately one kilometre, you will cross the secondary road FV-30 and keep going up to the Degollada de Terequey (a gorge also known as Granadillos). From Los Granadillos valley

GR® 131

Stretch 5 | Betancuria - Pájara

Balsam Spurges

here, descend its ravine, where spurges (Euphorbia spp.) grow comparatively large as they are protected from the strong winds that lash the rest of the island. Once out of the ravine, you will come upon the village of Toto, via Calle Cuesta de San Antonio. You will go past San Antonio chapel, and continue to the end of the street. Then turn right to go down the ravine riverbed, which bears the same name as the village and you will end up at Pájara. A sculpture of a herdsman milking his goats on a roundabout indicates the entrance of the town. Take the second exit; it will lead you to the end of this stretch, to the Plaza de la Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Regla. Pájara

Stretch 5 | Betancuria - PĂĄjara

GRÂŽ 131

The Macizo de Betancuria (Massif of Betancuria) The first fourteen or fifteen kilometres of Stretch 5 go through the eastern zone of the Macizo de Betancuria, which is set deep into the only Rural Park of the island. The surface area of this massif is almost completely encompassed by Fuerteventuraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s emerging basal complex, which is composed of materials that differ in age and origin, amongst which figure the oldest of the Canarian archipelago (180 million years). This characteristic makes it quite exceptional from a geological point of view on an insular scale but some of the elements that comprise the basal complex are renown even on an international scale.

The current relief of the island is quite smooth; this is due to the erosive activity it has undergone for several millions of years. The erosive agents have been responsible for lowering and modelling the landscape which nowadays is characterised by hills with gentle slopes and rounded summits which present a peculiar mixture of colours.

GR® 131

Stretch 6 | Pájara - La Pared

Map 7

Stretch 6

Pájara - La Pared

Stretch 5 Duration Expected

7 hrs.

Highest Point

494 m

Lowest Point

33 m

Severity of the Natural Environment 3

Approx. Total Distance 25,3 km Type of Route

Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Straight to a Destination

Profile PÁJARA 500 400 300 200 100

El Cardón

0 km 3 km

LA PARED

m m m m m 6 km

9 km

12 km

15 km

Las Hermosas

18 km

21 km

25,29 km

Stretch 6 | Pájara - La Pared

GR® 131

This stretch begins at the church of Nuestra Señora de Regla en Pájara and continues for about 400 metres in the town centre of Pájara as indicated by the directional signposts for this route. Once you have passed the flour mill you will go into the Barranco de La Cañada ravine, leaving behind you on your left a number of „gavias“. Keep walking until you get to a slight hill where you will go left to follow a steeper climb for a few kilometres until you reach Filo de Tejeda. From this point, the route runs along the different summits and gorges until it reaches the Cuchillo de los Pasos. Along this last section, you can stop wherever you wish to, given that the views are spectacular everywhere. From this area, you can observe the west and the east coast of the island, the beautiful landscapes of the hills behind you, the valleys and „cuchillos“ in the east of the island (Natural Monument of Cuchillos de Vigán). Looking eastwards, you will also see the central plain of Fuerteventura and westwards the mountain known as Montaña de Melindraga. From the Cuchillo de los Pasos you will go down a winding path, leaving on your right the ravine called Barranco de Bácher, until you arrive at Morro del Moralito. At this promontory there is a rest area from which you will start your descent down the Barranco de Bácher and continue until you reach the village of Cardón. From the village, go south until you reach another rest area next to a farmyard marked off by a wall of stones named “gambuesa”. Then continue down the lower part of the Rincones de Tamaretilla, down the mountain slopes of Montaña Cardón, until you reach the gorge of Guerime where you will cross the road FV-617. Once on the other side, the trail runs parallel to the road for about 2.5 kilometres. At the end, you will encounter an imposing gateway; continue on the earthern track which goes through the village of Las Hermosas and this stretch ends in the tourist area of La Pared.

GR® 131

Stretch 6 | Pájara - La Pared

Flora Throughout the whole route, you can observe many plant species, such as gorse (Launaea arborescens). However, it is worth keeping your eyes peeled in two specific zones: in the area of Cuchillo de los Pasos, where you can see Canarian chaparro (Convolvulus caput-medusae), and in the area of Rincones de Tamaretilla, on the mountain slopes of Montaña de Cardón, there are species such as the woody sow thistle (Sonchus pinnatifidus), the Caralluma burchardii (a cactus-like plant found in the Canaries and Morocco) and asTeasel (Wolfsmilchgewächs) paragus plants (Asparagus nesiotes purpuriensis), although these species are mostly found at the highest points of the island. In this area, we recommend a stop to take a look at the numerous Canary Island spurges (Euphorbietum canariensis) and balsam spurges (Euphorbietum balsamífera).

Stretch 6 | Pájara - La Pared

GR® 131

Geomorphology The first part of the route runs along the Macizo de Betancuria. The landscape of this massif is characterised by the abundance of hills with gentle slopes and rounded summits. On reaching Cuchillo de los Pasos, it is worth taking a small break to examine the peculiar shape of its summit. From this point, you can also observe several of the most typical geological formations of Fuerteventura. If you look towards the north, you can also contemplate the hilly landscape of the Macizo de Betancuria. When gazing from the north-east to the east, you can also appreciate the central plain which is a great hollow located in the central zone of the island and is the result of a complex erosion process that started millions of years ago. You will also observe the different valleys and „cuchillos“ (Natural Monument of Cuchillos de Vigán) which are cut into the oldest volcanic structures of the island. Looking towards the south, you will see the Cuchillos de Cardón.

GR速 131

Stretch 7 | La Pared - Risco del Paso

Map 8

Stretch 7

La Pared - Risco del Paso

Stretch 7 Duration Expected 5 hrs. 30 min.

244 m

Highest Point

34 m

Lowest Point Approx. Total Distance Type of Route

Profile

Sotavento beach

18 km

Straight to a Destination

Severity of the Natural Environment 3 Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Stretch 7 | La Pared - Risco del Paso

GRÂŽ 131

Trail and eolian farm

Stretch 7 of the GR-131 begins at the start of Avenida del Istmo. You will walk until the end of this avenue. Next, you will set foot on sandy land and take the track that opens out on your left (parallel to the houses). This sector is covered by sand and the trail might be buried or erased so you will have to be careful not to get confused and take any secondary track. There are no populated areas throughout this stretch therefore it is imperative to carry enough water with you. You will continue your hike in the Natural Park of JandĂa, in the area known as El Jable, in which you will walk for almost 10

GR® 131

Stretch 7 | La Pared - Risco del Paso

kilometres on this stretch. During this time, you can appreciate sections that are paved with limestone. These paths belong to the former „prisoners‘ route“, which bears this name because they were built by the political prisoners during Franco‘s regime who were held in Tefía. Nowadays, most of these paths have disappeared or are buried under the sand. You will walk towards Piedras Negras where you will pick out in the distance the generators of the wind farm. Keep walking, passing the small mountain of El Granillo on your left and you will enter the heart of this rural landscape. You will pass Alto de Agua Oveja westwards and go towards the slopes of Lomo Cuchillete, where the landscape is greener and the trail is no longer sandy; it turns into an earthern track that goes down the riverbed of the Barranco Vachuelo de Cuevas Labradas. Along this section you will enter the ravine and skirt Atalayeja Grande, where you can contemplate the contrast between the “jable” and the land on the sides of the ravine. You will then arrive at the Casas de Pecenescal where the farming tradition is defined by the cultivation areas and the livestock present in that zone. From here, go down the Barranco de Pecenescal, cross a main road and keep walking towards the coast to conclude this stretch on the beach known as Playa de Sotavento.

Vachuelo de Cuevas Labradas ravine

Stretch 7 | La Pared - Risco del Paso

GR® 131

The Prisoners’ Route Within El Jable, in the isthmus of the peninsula of Jandía, there is a path made of limestone that is about a metre and half wide that extends throughout the north coast of the isthmus, from La Pared to Pecenescal. Nowadays, it is quite deteriorated and it can only be seen where the sand has not covered it. It is a reminiscence of what was once the only access to Jandía. It was built between 1946 and 1948 by order of Gustav Winter, the manager of the Dehesa de Jandía at the time. The political prisoners of Franco’s regime imprisoned in the concentration camp and the Colony of the Idle and Miscreants of Tefía, as it used to be called were used by Winter as forced labour. This establishment was located in the centre of the island and goes back to the beginning of the republican period. This path, known as the prisoners’ route, is part of the cultural heritage of the island of Fuerteventura.

GR® 131

Stretch 8 | Risco del Paso - Morro Jable

Map 9

Stretch 8

Risco del Paso - Morro Jable

Stretch 8 Duration Expected

5 hrs.

Highest Point

49 m

Lowest Point

Approx. Total Distance 14,4 km Type of Route

Severity of the Natural Environment 2 Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Straight to a Destination

Profile RISCO DEL PASO 60 m

MORRO JABLE

PLAYA DE BUTIHONDO PLAYA DEL MATORRAL PLAYA DEL MAL NOMBRE

40 m 20 m 0 km

1,6 km 3,2 km 4,8 km 6,4 km 8,0 km

9,6 km 11,2 km 12,8 km 14,38 km

This stretch starts from the mouth of the Barranco de Pecenescal. You will leave the ravine to climb up to the Morrete de la Mareta and then continue your route skirting the coastline throughout almost the entire stretch. It is worth noting that on this stretch you will cross the mouths of a few major ravines such as: El Salmo, Los Canarios, Mal Nombre and Esquinzo. Once you have passed the mouth of the Barranco de Esquinzo, the trail runs through several hotel complexes, with some sections on the sandy beach until you reach Avenida Morro Jable and conclude the stretch into the main square of this tourist town. The landscape covered by the trail is defined by two essential elements: a long beach on the coastline and old volcanic relief covered by eolian sands known as „jable“ inland. Along the route, you will see that the coast is mostly sandy and low-lying (the heights do not exceed 40 metres above sea level).

Stretch 8 | Risco del Paso - Morro Jable

GR速 131

Stretch 8 | Risco del Paso - Morro Jable

Geomorphology The following characteristics are particularly worth noting: Wind Modelling: The abundance of sand formations shaped by the wind is a typical feature of the area. It is due to the great amount of sand that comes from the sea (jable), the arid climate and its vegetation that do not help to stabilise the sand and the many flat areas on which the wind can form vast zones of dunes. In the area of Pecenescal, you can appreciate the dunes where the current winds are displaced from the north and northeast towards the south and the south-west, which makes some beaches quite windy. Shapes on the Coastline: The shapes of the coastal relief are the result of interaction between the geological structure, morphogenetic processes of the earth and hydrodynamic agents (waves, tides and currents induced by waves). This area is very rich in different landforms, and the coastline presents accumulations of minerals which give way to magnificent examples of beaches and dunes.

Stretch 8 | Risco del Paso - Morro Jable

GR速 131

Fauna The tremendous aridness, the winds and the high temperatures are factors that limit the existence of animals in this area. A group of steppe birds such as the cream-coloured courser (Cursorius cursor bannermani), the stone curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus insularum) and the Canarian houbara (Chlamydotis undulata fuerteventurae) live in the sandy and alluvial areas inland. Nesting birds such as the Canary Islands stonechat (Saxicola dacotiae), an endemic species of Fuerteventura, and the trumpeter finch (Bucanetes githagineus) are more widespread inland.

Canary Island stonechat (male)

On the seashore and in the coastal marshes, you will mostly see birds, such as the snowy plover (Charadrius alexandrinus) or the little ringed plover (Charadrius dubius) that look for food in the damp sand. So far as mammals are concerned, the most present is the Barbary ground squirrel (Atlantoxerus getulus), a species that was introduced on the island quite recently. Among the reptiles, the most abundant are the Atlantic lizard (Gallotia atlantica mahoratae) and the East Canary gecko (Tarentola angustimentalis).

GR® 131

Stretch 9 | Morro Jable - Punta de Jandía

Map 10

Stretch 9

Morro Jable - Punta de Jandía

Stretch 9 Duration Expected

92 m

Highest Point

Lowest Point Approx. Total Distance Type of Route

Profile

5 hrs.

19 km

Straight to a Destination

Severity of the Natural Environment 3 Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Stretch 9 | Morro Jable - Punta de Jandía

GR® 131

Coastline of Morro Jable

This stretch of the GR-131 starts at the beach of Morro Jable and goes down south until you reach some steps that will lead you to an interesting viewpoint. From here, a part of the coast of Morro Jable opens out to you. It looks quite small next to the vastness of the ocean. Next, you will go through an urban area and cross the main road to take a trail leading you to the graveyard of Morro Jable. Following the coastline, keep walking until you reach the Tablero de Peñas Blancas. If you pay attention, you will see that on this section there are specimens of Jandía teasel (Euphorbia handiensis). This plant is an endemic species, which is exclusive on Fuerteventura and you only come across it in some specific areas of Jandía. Here, the GR unites with the small route PR-FV 55 Gran Valle-Degollada de Cofete-Cofete. Stick to the trail and walk past the houses of the Tablero de Peñas Blancas. You will then come across a series of plateaus in which the scarce vegetation clearly contrasts this unusual landscape of valleys and mountains with the proximity of the coastline.

Punta de Jandía lighthouse

GR® 131

Stretch 9 | Morro Jable - Punta de Jandía

On reaching a rest area, you can contemplate Valle de Jorós, a valley once known for its vast areas of tomato plantations. You will then skirt Montaña de Jorós towards Valle de los Mosquitos and get onto a path that follows the coastline to enter the Natural Park of Jandía. It is recommended not to leave the trail as the many intertwining tracks can be misleading. You will follow small cliff-tops and mouths of several ravines before reaching the village of Las Salinas. At this point the GR shares its route with the circular PR-FV 56 El Puertito-Caleta de la Madera-El Puertito. Both itineraries go to El Puertito, a small village characterised by its unique windmill. The small route ends here whereas the last section of the GR-131 goes on via La Angostura to the lighthouse of Punta de Jandía. Once there, you can visit the Interpretation Centre of the Natural Park of Jandía, a small museum located at the far end of the island, which displays interesting temporary exhibitions.

Tableros

Stretch 9 | Morro Jable - Punta de Jandía

GR® 131

Jandía teasel (Euphorbia handiensis) The Jandía teasel was declared a vegetal symbol of the island of Fuerteventura by the Government of the Canary Islands in 1991. Also known as the hairy teasel, this succulent cactus-shaped shrub is characterised by its reduced size, as it reaches a maximum height of one metre. It has many branches and its small green-yellowish and reddish flowers are arranged among long and straight spines. It is an endemic species, typical of the island, which used to be part of much bigger teasel fields not so long ago. Nowadays, this plant figures on the list of endangered species, because of the small number of specimens and its area of occupancy is very limited, as it can only be found in specific places on the Peninsula of Jandía.

Tamarisks in Agua Cabras, JandĂa

PR®

PR®-FV 1 | Barranco de la Cañada de Melián - Esquinzo

PR®-FV 1

Map 11

Barranco de la Cañada de Melián Esquinzo

PR®-FV 1 Duration Expected5 hrs. 30 min. Highest Point

156 m

Lowest Point

27 m

Approx. Total Distance 14,5 km Type of Route

Straight to a Destination

Profile

La Mareta mountain

Severity of the Natural Environment 2 Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

PR®-FV 1 | Barranco de la Cañada de Melián - Esquinzo

PR®

El Fraile mountain

The PR-FV 1 leaves from Montaña de la Mareta and heads towards the south via the sandy ravine of Cañada de Melián, where you will find yourself before an incredible landscape in which silence and solitude are your only companions for the first few kilometres. You will then continue your hike up to Majada de las Pilas, a semi-desert plain which shelters the most interesting bird communities of the island: the steppe birds. The most outstanding species of these communities is the Canarian houbara (Chlamydotis undulata fuertaventurae), the animal symbol of Fuerteventura. Next, you will ascend towards the northeast, between Montaña del Fraile and a rest area, where you can take a break and enjoy this uninhabited landscape. A few metres further on, you will reach Montaña de los Corrales. From there, you can make out the small village El Roque on the right, and the coastal village El Cotillo in front of you. Once the houses of Montaña del Fraile are behind you, you will set foot on Tablero Alto de la Molina. This plateau is quite special as it boasts one solitary windmill. You will then follow the direction of El Cotillo and walk by the Castillo del Tostón, a former fortress

PR®

PR®-FV 1 | Barranco de la Cañada de Melián - Esquinzo

Trail

Windmills Fuerteventura contains within its semi-desert landscape the history of a people who have managed to adapt to their surroundings. There was a time, not so long ago, that Fuerteventura had a significant cereal industry. The inhabitants used windmills all around the island to grind toasted grains of corn, wheat, barley, rye, etc… and in hard times, more modest grains such as slenderleaf ice plant (Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum) and common iceplant (Mesembryanthemum crystallinum) to make the food all Canarians are so grateful for: the „gofio“. Nowadays, people have almost forgotten those times; however, many mills scattered throughout the island are there to remind us. Mills appeared on the island during the 17th and 18th century and were used with the already existing flour mills (a wooden device for grinding pulled by a camel or a donkey). They take advantage of the intense persistent trade winds and use them as their driving force. Towards the 19th and 20th centuries, the „molinas“, an evolution of the windmills, became more extensively used on the island. The mill consists of a circular building made of lime, stone and mud. It is built on three floors: the first one is used to keep the miller‘s tools, the middle floor collects the grain and the

Windmill between El Roque and El Cotillo

PR®-FV 1 | Barranco de la Cañada de Melián - Esquinzo

PR®

of the 18th century. From here, the path turns into an earthern track often used by cars. Follow the signs down to the seashore. You will see how the long white sandy beaches are set off by the imposing ocean encircling us. Its beautiful tones of blue and green will really tempt you to go for a dip. Follow the coastline with its impressive cliffs until the end of the stretch: Playa de Esquinzo. Once on the beach, you can go for a well-deserved swim in the sea. In that area, it is frequent to encounter half-wild coastal goats are herded together once in a while in traditional “apañadas” (Canarian term explained a little further on in this guide; it is a sort of gathering of goat tribes). whole mechanism of the machinery is set on the top floor. The innovation of the „molinas“ is the separation between the house and the machinery. The house is a square or rectangle room from which a free-standing wooden tower stands out (the machinery). The great advantage of the „molina“ over the traditional mill is that as it is on the same floor, the miller does not have to go up and down the stairs carrying bags of grain all day. These two inventions are the standing proof of a culture of grain that has now disappeared. Nevertheless, one should bear in mind that, for centuries, the use of these mills was one of the few resources of the economy of Fuerteventura. Nowadays, the remains of the mills remind us who the Majoreros once were.

PR®

PR®-FV 9 | Tindaya - Vallebrón - Tefía

Map 4

PR®-FV 9

Tindaya - Vallebrón - Tefía

PR®-FV 9 Duration Expected

5 hrs.

Highest Point

513 m

Orientation of the Itinerary

Lowest Point

198 m

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Approx. Total Distance 15,3 km Type of Route

Severity of the Natural Environment 2

Straight to a Destination

Profile

The PR-FV 9 starts from the church of Tindaya, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Caridad. Go eastwards on Calle de La Oliva until you reach an intersection with the secondary road FV10. Here the PR takes an earthern track that runs parallel to the road up to a small tunnel you will have to go through. The trail then ascends between a promontory and a mountain: Morro Tabaiba, towards the north, and Montaña de Enmedio, towards the south. From this spot, you can behold the beauty of Montaña de Tindaya, the solitary mountain that stands in the middle of a plain.

You will then head east and descend by Valle Chico, which presents different traditional types of cultivation. In addition, on the sides of the valley, you can appreciate some stunted-looking green shrubs: balsam and ‚wild‘ spurges (Euphorbia spp.).

PR®-FV 9 | Tindaya - Vallebrón - Tefía

PR®

You will follow the earthern track until you reach a tar-road that will lead you to the cultural centre of Vallebrón. Then turn right onto Calle La Mareta, until you reach the intersection with the secondary road FV-103, which you will follow westwards to enter Gran Valle. Once there, take the fourth exit on the left and start climbing towards Degollada de la Renegada, leaving behind the houses of Vallebrón. Along this section, you can observe Canary Island daisies (Asteriscus sericeus), verodes (Kleinia neriifolia) and spurges (Euphorbia spp.). Once you arrive at the gorge, there is a possibility of climbing, by an adjacent track, to one of the highest mountains of the island, La Muda (689 m), but your trail goes down the slope to the village of La Matilla. You will enter it

Trail along Chico valley

PR®

PR®-FV 9 | Tindaya - Vallebrón - Tefía

Tindaya chapel

through its narrow streets until you reach the secondary road FV-10. Cross the road and take the earthern track. This was once the main road that united La Matilla with Tefía. To get to the finishing point of the PR, you will skirt Montaña de la Caldera and walk for a kilometre until you reach a crossroads. Here, the PR meets Stretch 3 of the GR-131; the two routes then go north to Ermita de San Agustín. The PR-FV 9 ends at your arrival at the chapel.

La Matilla

PR®

PR®-FV 9 | Tindaya - Vallebrón - Tefía

Spurges Balsam spurges (Euphorbia balsamifera) and the plants known in Spanish as wild spurges (Euphorbia regis-jubae) are succulent shrubs that belong to the family of Euphorbiacea. They are usually found in low-lying areas, and settle on rudimentary rocky grounds. They can survive in this arid climate of scarce rainfall and high temperatures. In very windy areas, spurges protect themselves by adopting a stunted shape, on the other hand, in sheltered areas, the spurges are taller and look almost like trees.

Balsam Spurge

The balsam spurge is differentiated from the ‘wild’ spurge by its inflorescence of only one terminal flower which gives a big fruit and because it usually has more branches. Its leaves are also shorter and narrower than those of the ‘wild’ spurge. Both plants are characterised by the milky latex they secrete when their stems are cut. While the latex of the balsam spurge is not harmful (that is why it is called balsam), the latex of the ‘wild’ spurge is very toxic. Nevertheless, both have been used for different purposes in the past. The latex of balsam spurges was used to make gum which was used among other things to hermetically seal wine barrels or to cap the nipples of goats in order to wean kids. On the other hand, ‘wild’ spurge latex was mainly used to disorient or “embroscar”. “Embroscar” was a Canarian fishing technique which consists in introducing latex into a small lake in order to make the fish drowsy so as to capture them more easily.

Wild Spurge

PR®

PR®-FV 15 y 15.1 | Tetir - Tefía

Map 5

PR®-FV 15 and 15.1

Tetir - Tefía

PR®-FV 15 Duration Expected

4 hrs.

Highest Point

491 m

Orientation of the Itinerary

Lowest Point

220 m

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Approx. Total Distance 11,7 km Type of Route

Severity of the Natural Environment 1

Straight to a Destination

Profile

These two small trails start from Tetir and finish in Tefía; however, their itinerary differs. The PR-FV 15 and its alternative PR-FV 15.1 leave from the parish of Santo Domingo de Guzmán, and head south-west for about a kilometre. You then turn right onto an earthern track. You will start climbing and walk between two mountains: Montaña de San Andrés and Montaña de Tamateje. Next, you will go down for 500 metres until you reach the Sargenta country property. At this point, the PR is divided into the two different routes: the PR-FV 15 will lead you to Casillas del Ángel, and the PR-FV 15.1 goes by the valley of Tetir towards Degollada de Facay. 80

PR®

PR®-FV 15 y 15.1 | Tetir - Tefía

PR®-FV 15.1 Duration Expected 4 hrs. 30 min.

Severity of the Natural Environment 1

Highest Point

469 m

Orientation of the Itinerary

Lowest Point

223 m

Difficulty of the Hike

Approx. Total Distance

7,8 km

Effort Required

Type of Route

Straight to a Destination

Profile

PR®-FV 15 | Tetir - Casillas del Ángel - Tefía The PR-FV 15 goes southwards for around 600 metres. You will then arrive at a rest area where the fertile Valle de Tetir opens out before you. This valley has been an agricultural area since time immemorial. You will then keep walking up a regular ascent via Majada de los Abreus, until you reach Degollada de la Sargenta, where if you listen carefully, you will hear the shrieks of a prey bird: the common buzzard (Buteo buteo insularum). Regarding flora, you will mostly come across gorse bushes (Launaea arborescens) and wild tobacco (Nicotiana glauca), although in the highest areas, you will also find balsam spurges (Euphorbia balsamifera) and verodes (Kleinia neriifolia). Mountains of Tamateje (on the left) and San Andrès (on the right)

PR®

PR®-FV 15 y 15.1 | Tetir - Tefía

Verode

At this stage of the trail, you can contemplate the so-called “cuchillos”, long and narrow mountain heights ending in a ridge or a hill. They are the result of intense erosion endured over time.

From here, you will descend towards Casillas del Ángel, a group of houses at your feet, by taking the earthern track. You will go through the village, which is surrounded by “gavias” and go westwards until Llano de las Pilas. Once on this plain, you will start climbing by a slightly elevated trail and go past Degollada de la Vista de Casillas to then skirt Pico de la Fortaleza. You will see the town of Tefía from this peak. To get there, you will go along El Paso Alto. Arriving at a water reservoir means

Division of the PR ®

PR®-FV 15 y 15.1 | Tetir - Tefía

PR®

you have only 800 metres left to complete this small route, the end being at the cultural centre of Tefía.

PR®-FV 15 | Tetir - Degollada de Facay Tefía The alternative PR-FV 15.1 goes past Cortijo de la Sargenta to enter Valle de Tetir towards the west. This valley is quite impressive as constant erosion has left it U-shaped. Within the valley, there are different types of traditional cultivation systems; “gavias” and “cadenas”.

Common Buzzard

Keep going towards the west and you will start to climb up to Degollada de Facay. On your right, you will notice some dried up ponds; they are used by farmers to collect runoff water which they store to use whenever needed.

U-shaped Tetir valley

A bit higher, you will cross some wooden bridges that will lead you to the gorge. On the way, you will encounter some specimens of verodes (Kleinia neriifolia) and ‘wild’ spurges (Euphorbia regis-jubae), although you will mainly see gorse bushes (Launaea arborescens).

PR®

PR®-FV 15 y 15.1 | Tetir - Tefía

Trail towards the Facay gorge

Once in the Degollada de Facay, you will discover spectacular panoramic views: towards the east, you will be faced with the immensity of Valle de Tetir, and towards the west, the village of Tefía, which is located on a plain where the solitary Montaña Bermeja stands. You will then descend for about a kilometre before reaching the foot of Morro Bermejo. From this promontory, go towards the north-west, towards Tefía and this short stretch ends at the chapel of the town.

San Agustín chapel

PR®-FV 15 y 15.1 | Tetir - Tefía

PR®

Gavias (traditional irrigation systems) Gavias are a form of traditional irrigation system; they are typical of Fuerteventura but are also used in other dry areas of the world. They are widespread on the Majorera island, although many are abandoned nowadays. This system consists in flat farming lands surrounded by earth or earth and stone walls. These walls are one-metre high and are locally called “trastones”. The aim of this irrigation system is to retain water inside the walls by means of channels or pipes that lead the water inside the „gavia“ where it will slowly be filtered into the soil to allow the plants to grow. Each „gavia“ has a system, at the opposite side of where the water comes in, that allows the evacuation of excess water to another „gavia“ or towards the riverbed of a ravine in case of overflow.

Thanks to the “gavias”, the Majorero has managed to make viable agricultural production (mainly of cereals and legumes) in a very arid territory, where this cultivation would otherwise have been impossible.

PR速

PR速-FV 54 | Morro Jable - Pico de la Zarza

Maps 9 and 10

PR速-FV 54

Morro Jable - Pico de la Zarza

PR速-FV 54 Duration Expected 2 hrs. 30 min.

807 m

Highest Point

Lowest Point Approx. Total Distance Type of Route

7,5 km

Severity of the Natural Environment 2 Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Forth and Back

Profile

Costa de Barlovento (windward coastline)

PR®-FV 54 | Morro Jable - Pico de la Zarza

PR®

Costa de Sotavento (leeward coastline)

By taking the PR-FV 54, you will discover one of the best views of the Canary Islands from a significant standpoint: the Pico de La Zarza, at 807 metres, is the highest peak of Fuerteventura. You will start this small route at the roundabout of Morro Jable which represents the masts and sails of a boat. You will then go up a small avenue until you reach the first intersection where you will turn left, and after a bend, you will fork right onto an earthern track which leads to a water reservoir. From this point, La Zarza peak you will enter the Natural Park of Jandía and ascend to Pico de las Atalayejas, where you can spot a golf complex when looking southwards. From here, the trail goes up evenly to a peak among ‚wild‘ spurges (Euphorbia regis-jubae), verodes (Kleinia neriifolia) and Canary Island daisies (Asteriscus sericeus), until it reaches the Pico de la Zarza. Once at the top, you will discover incredible views of the coast of Barlovento to the west and of Sotavento to the east which mark the end of the peninsula of Jandía. This is a privileged place where the unspoilt beauty is accentuated by the sound of the waves of the Playa de Cofete. The natural melody on this beach is only interrupted occasionally by the shrieking of birds that are looking for shelter at the summit. Among them are two species which are in grave danger of extinction: the Barbary falcon (Falco pelegrinoides) and the Canarian Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus majorensis).

PR速

PR速-FV 54 | Morro Jable - Pico de la Zarza

The Canarian Egyptian vulture The Canarian Egyptian vulture (Neo-phron percnopterus majorensis), also known in Spanish as Alimoche canario is the only vulture present in the Canarian archipelago. It is the biggest bird of the Canary Islands; and whilst it is migratory on the European continent, in the Canaries it is sedentary. It presents singular morphological and genetic features so it can be considered as a new sub-species. It is big: it has a 1.65-metre wingspan, it measures about 70 centimetres from head to foot and can weigh up to 2 kilogrammes. When they are young they are blackish, but the colour of their plumage gets lighter and lighter until it is totally white and they have a black streak on their wings. It feeds on all kinds of carrion and keeps the island clear of dead animals thus preventing the spread of diseases. In the past, Canarian Egyptian vultures were very common on all the islands; it was even considered the most abundant day bird of prey of the archipelago. Today however, it is in danger of extinction. Its population is limited to Fuerteventura and there are a few individuals on Lanzarote.

PR®

PR®-FV 55 | Gran Valle - Cofete

Map 10

PR®-FV 55

Gran Valle - Cofete

PR®-FV 55 Duration Expected

2 hrs.

Highest Point

360 m 64 m

Lowest Point Approx. Total Distance Type of Route

6,7 km

Severity of the Natural Environment 2 Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Straight to a Destination

Profile

The Natural Park of Jandía stands out both for its geology and biology; you will start this small route from here, at the foot of the Gran Valle. This valley is characterised by an abundance of gorse (Launaea arborescens) and European teatree (Lycium intricatum) and the exclusive endemic Jandía teasel (Euphorbia handiensis), which was declared vegetal symbol of the island. You will go inland towards the Casas de Gran Valle, where you will see an aboriginal village original structures of which have been altered over time. You will ascend until you reach Degollada de Cofete. This gorge provides exceptional panoramic views: eastwards, Gran Valle, and westwards, the gulf of Cofete, which has been reduced to a half-moon shape, its western half having disappeared 12-14 million years ago due to a great gravitational landslide.

PR®

PR®-FV 55 | Gran Valle - Cofete

Cofete cemetary

Once you have passed the gorge, you will descend on the Barlovento side, and the sound of the waves will lead you down to the seashore. You will go past the Villa Winter on your right and walk up to the houses of the small village of Cofete to see its restored limestone kiln. Your itinerary will end on the village beach. Playa de Cofete impresses its visitors by its natural beauty and its curious cemetery in the middle of the jable. This area is clearly important for birds; the trail actually crosses a ZEPA (Spanish acronym for an ornothological special protection area). On the higher lands, you may see endangered endemic species, such as the Canarian Egyptian vulture (Neophron percnopterus majorensis). In addition, the peninsula of Jandía is one of the best areas of the island to see the exclusive and endemic

PR®-FV 55 | Gran Valle - Cofete

PR®

Goat

Canary Islands stonechat (Saxicola dacotiae), present from the coastline to the mountainous areas. On your way, you will probably also encounter some half-wild goats (Capra spp.) gathered in traditional “apañadas”.

Gran valley

PR®

PR®-FV 55 | Gran Valle - Cofete

Apañadas (gathering of goat tribes) Apañadas are one of the few manifestations inherited from the pre-European Majos that are still alive in Fuerteventura. They consist in gathering the half-wild livestock of the coast into a circular corral made of stones named gambuesa. There are sometimes several smaller adjacent gambuesas that are used to separate livestock. The main purposes of the apañadas are to check the condition of the livestock, to wean the kids called baifos, to mark new heads, to castrate male goats, to match up mothers and kids and to obtain meat. The figure of the commissioner or comisionado was created to take care of these responsibilities. He is in charge of the organisation of the apañadas, its regulation and the maintenance of the gambuesas. He is given powers by the town council and elected by both the latter and fellow stockbreeders. This tradition starts at sunrise, when the herdsmen, divided into groups and holding their straight crooks, go over the territory with their dogs to gather the livestock and shut it in the gambuesa, where the activities specific to the apañada take place.

Gambuesa on the peninsula of Jandía

PR®-FV 55 | Gran Valle - Cofete

PR®

Villa Winter

The Legend of the Villa Winter The Villa Winter is a type of mansion located in Cofete, one of the most isolated areas of Fuerteventura. It is currently cut off, except for a steep stone path which gives access to it. It is a curious house which was ordered to be built in the first half of the 20th century by Gustav Winter, a rich engineer of German origin, whose enigmatic activities awoke a great deal of suspicion among the people of the island. Many have asked why Don Gustavo (as he was known by the islanders) had ordered the construction of this homestead and there have been many theories about its existence. The legend says that Winter used the house as a supply base for a fleet of Nazi submarines during the Second World War. There have therefore been speculations about the existence of underground tunnels that would lead from the villa‘s basement to the sea. Its turret raises all kinds of questions… it is believed that it was used as a lookout and an orientation point for submarines or planes that landed on the Winter runway, situated near Puertito de la Cruz. The house could also have served as holiday accommodation for many German officials of the regime. It has even been said that it could have been Hitler‘s refuge for when the war was over. Although these stories are probably only rumours that sound more interesting than the truth, these legends give the place a touch of intrigue and mystery.

PR速

PR速-FV 56 | El Puertito - Caleta de la Madera - El Puertito

PR速-FV 56

Map 10

El Puertito - Caleta de la Madera - El Puertito

PR速-FV 56 Duration Expected 4 hrs. 30 min. Highest Point Lowest Point

106 m 10 m

Approx. Total Distance

11,5 km

Type of Route

Circular

Severity of the Natural Environment 1 Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Profile

El Puertito

PR®-FV 56 | El Puertito - Caleta de la Madera - El Puertito

PR®

Low-lying cliff-tops

This small route, that crosses the Natural Park of Jandía, starts on the south coast of Fuerteventura at El Puertito, a small fishing village surrounded by golden sand or jable. You will find yourself facing a completely sustainable landscape, far from the big coastal urbanisations, from which you will leave heading westwards, skirting the coastline which is generally formed by unevenly-shaped cliffs and shows only a few sand accumulations like Playa de Ojos. When you arrive at the area known as Llano del Cotillo, head north. You will cross a sandy area, until you reach Las Atalayejas (also known as Las Talahijas). You will walk by the Caleta de

PR®

PR®-FV 56 | El Puertito - Caleta de la Madera - El Puertito

Aguas Cabras cove

la Madera and set eyes on the impressive cliff that has borne the erosive process carried out by the sea for millions of years. This cove also presents a small solitary rock that still braves the charges of the boisterous Atlantic Ocean. You will keep walking up to Caleta de Agua Cabras which offers splendid views towards the arch of Cofete, and even of El Jable, an area covered by golden sand mostly made up of particles of marine organisms. Next, go down Degollada de Agua Cabras where you will see copses of tamarisks. You will then go eastwards into an arid environment with very little vegetation consisting mostly of gorse (Launaea arborescens), Suaeda and Salsola genera known in Spanish as „salados“ meaning ‚salties‘ as they are confined to saline or alkaline soil habitats. In the middle of this natural setting, amongst the many mountains, you will notice Montaña Azufrá, a greyish trachyte piton.

Going down to sea level you will arrive at Las Salinas. At this point, your path joins the last stretch of the GR-131-Punta Morro Jable Jandia, and together, they go back to El Puertito.

Trail

PR®-FV 56 | El Puertito - Caleta de la Madera - El Puertito

PR®

Runways In an area of Fuerteventura prevailed by aridness and silence, it is quite surprising to see there are two runways built during the last century.

Winter Runway The first one was planned by Gustav Winter, a German engineer who managed the Dehesa de Jandía for the marquises of Lanzarote (Counts of Santa Coloma and Cifuentes). This pastureland was fenced up to the level of Matas Blancas. The runway, built in Las Hoyas, was used to transport guests, usually hunters and fishermen, and Spanish soldiers who used it as a rescue aerodrome. Nonetheless, the fact that ingoing and outgoing planes could not be monitored caused the prohibition of its use by the authorities.

Punta del Sol Runway The second runway, made of black lapilli or picón volcanic stone, was built during the 1970s, when Gustav Winter’s lands changed owners, most them remaining in German hands. It was the Spanish-German Punta del Sol S.A. company that built this new runway in order to ease the communication with a new tourist resort. Later on, as the runway only measured 800 metres long by 30 metres wide, it was to be extended to allow promotional charter flights to use it. However, due to the isolation of the place and the lack of control over possible incoming planes, the request was refused.

La Pared isthmus and the JandĂa mountain range

SL®

SL®-FV 2 | Lajares - Calderón Hondo

Map 3

SL®-FV 2

Lajares - Calderón Hondo

SL®-FV 2 Duration Expected

198 m

Highest Point

77 m

Lowest Point Approx. Total Distance Type of Route

Profile

100

1 hr.

3,5 km

Forth and Back

Severity of the Natural Environment 1 Orientation of the Itinerary

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

SL®-FV 2 | Lajares - Calderón Hondo

SL®

Path towards Calderón Hondo

This local trail starts at the football pitch of Lajares. From this point, this SL and the second stretch of the GR-131 share the path for about a kilometre, up to the end of Calle Majanicho. The GR then turns right onto Calle de Los Cascajos towards Corralejo, whereas the SL heads north-east on a stone path. You will see that around this stone path, the vegetation is scarce, mostly showing Russian thistle (Salsola spp.) and gorse (Launaea arborescens). Furthermore, in some periods of the year, you may observe reddish-purple hues on the sides of the path which are displayed by the slenderleaf ice plant (Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum). In front of you Montaña Colorada rises up; the holes in its slopes show that it was once a lapilli or picón quarry. After skirting this mountain, you will face Calderón Hondo. This great crater is united to Montaña Colorada to the north-west. A

Colorada mountain

101

SL®

SL®-FV 2 | Lajares - Calderón Hondo

Union of SL®-FV2 with Stretch 2 of the GR®-131

few metres further on the trail splits into two different paths. If you choose to go left, you will reach the 70-metre deep Calderón Hondo. The right path follows the local trail and will lead you through a karst or malpais to the foot of Caldera Rebanada, where the SL-FV 2 ends. From here you will reach the second stretch of the GR-131 to go back to Lajares, i.e. you can go back the way you came, or it is also possible to go northwards until you reach Corralejo.

Ice Plants The Canarian ice plants are herbaceous, of low reach and belong to the Aizoaceaea family. They are found all over the island except in the mountains; they can bear long periods of draught and grow in saline rich areas. The most common are the slenderleaf ice plant (Mesembryanthemum nodiflorum) and the common ice plant (M. crystallinum), annual plants that are initially green and turn into a bright reddish-purple as the summer approaches. The Slenderleaf Ice Plant 102

It has been used since aboriginal times for nutritional pur-

SL®-FV 2 | Lajares - Calderón Hondo

SL®

poses, when the most appreciated grains were scarce. During the summer, the plant capsules were deposited in salty water pools which liberated the seeds called lavaderos. After having been washed, they were left to dry in the sun and then toasted and grinded with the same method as for any type of grain to make slightly salted and highly-nutritional gofio. The Common Ice Plant It became quite consequent in the island economy during the second half of the 18th century and beginning of the 19th century. The plant was used to obtain lye and its seeds, when food was scarce, were used to make “glass gofio” (see following paragraph). Lye, a highly-alkaline ash (KOH), is obtained by incineration, and mixed with water it was used to create hard blocks commonly called “common ice plant stones”. These stones were exported or used as soap (once the lye was mixed with animal fat). It also served, although to a smaller extent, to fabricate glass and some textiles.

103

SL®

SL®-FV 27 | Vega de Río Palmas - Presa de las Peñitas

SL®-FV 27

Map 6

Vega de Río Palmas - Presa de las Peñitas

SL®-FV 27 Duration Expected

1 hr.

Severity of the Natural Environment 1

256 m

Orientation of the Itinerary

Lowest Point

199 m

Difficulty of the Hike

Approx. Total Distance

3,4 km

Effort Required

Highest Point

Type of Route

Forth and Back

Profile

The SL-FV 27 starts in Vega de Río Palmas, which owes its name to the Norman conquerors who were astounded by the number of palm trees and fountainheads in the place.

104

You will leave from the church of Nuestra Señora de la Peña, the patron saint of the island. Cross the secondary road FV-30 to enter the Barranco de Río Palmas. Walk into this ravine for 500 metres and you will find a bridge with several arches. Once there, turn right to go back onto the road and head south-west. You will walk by the low-lying houses of La Vega until reaching a crossroads which will lead you to the Presa de Las Peñitas which was built during the first half of the 20th century. To get to the reservoir, follow the riverbed of Barranco de Río Palmas; it will remind you of an oasis in the middle of an arid desert. The

SL®-FV 27 | Vega de Río Palmas - Presa de las Peñitas

SL®

Vega de Río Palmas

Canarian palm trees (Phoenix canariensis) and tamarisks (Tamarix canariensis) are the main trees along the way, although you will also see verodes (Kleinia neriifolia), wild spurges (Euphorbia regis-jubae) and typical riverbank vegetation with giant reed (Arundo donax) and common reed (Phragmites australis). The vegetation and the presence of water in some instances encourage birds to come to this area. The common coot (Fulica atra) and the common moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) are the most significant species encountered.

Río Palmas ravine

105

SL®

SL®-FV 27 | Vega de Río Palmas - Presa de las Peñitas

Las Peñitas reservoir

You will then go into the Barranco de las Peñitas by the right bank of the reservoir, which will lead you to the end of the local trail. Although our route ends here, passing by the reservoir you can visit the Ermita de la Virgen de la Peña, a small white chapel where, according to legend, the patron saint of the island appeared.

106

Common coot

SL®-FV 27 | Vega de Río Palmas - Presa de las Peñitas

SL®

Presa de las Peñitas (Reservoir of Las Peñitas) A reservoir is a storage system, built at some point of the course of a river or a ravine, which consists in a dam made of stone, concrete or loose materials that holds back runoff water. The whole system collects the water. The reservoir you will see in the Barranco de las Peñitas was built between 1939 and 1940 although historical sources say that a wall was already built there at the end of the 19th century. This reservoir was mainly used to water the tomato plantations towards the mouth of the ravine. In the 1950s, the reservoir started deteriorating because it received great quantities of sediment that were not removed and produced the beginning of the current siltation, thus preventing the storage of water.

107

SL®

SL®-FV 28 | Agua de Bueyes - Vega de Río Palmas

Map 6

SL®-FV 28

Agua de Bueyes - Vega de Río Palmas

SL®-FV 28 Duration Expected

2 hrs.

Highest Point

583 m

Orientation of the Itinerary

Lowest Point

289 m

Difficulty of the Hike

Approx. Total Distance

3,2 km

Effort Required

Type of Route

Profile

108

Straight to a Destination

Severity of the Natural Environment 1

SL®-FV 28 | Agua de Bueyes - Vega de Río Palmas

SL®

This local trail does not start in the village centre of Agua de Bueyes but in the Barranco de los Almácigos, a ravine located in the area known as La Capellanía, where you can find a rest area. The many prickly pears (Opuntia spp.) that populate the slopes are quite impressive. They were widely cultivated in the past both for their fruit and the collection of cochineal. A steady climb for about European teatree two kilometres will take you to Morro Rincón del Atajo. At the top of the promontory, a wonderful view of Vega de Río Palmas awaits you to the west. Along the way, you walk past many wild spurges (Euphorbia regis-jubae), verodes (Kleinia nerrifolia), gorse (Launaea arborescens), European teatree (Lycium intricatum) and remains of thermophile woods: a wild olive tree locally known as acebuche (Olea cerasiformis). At Morro Rincón, this trail joins the local trail SL-FV 31, which comes from Tiscamanita in the south. The two routes continue by the promontory named Morro Vista del Pueblo and gradually go down an earthern track until reaching Calle Pedro Peña, and then onto the secondary road FV-30. Both itineraries follow this road to end at Plaza de Nuestra Señora de la Peña.

Agua de Bueyes

109

SL®

SL®-FV 28 | Agua de Bueyes - Vega de Río Palmas Prickly pears

110

SL®-FV 28 | Agua de Bueyes - Vega de Río Palmas

SL®

Cochineal Cochineals (Dactylopius coccus) is a parasite insect from Mexico which was introduced in the Canaries at the beginning of the 19th century to reduce the effect of the agricultural crisis the islands were undergoing during that period.

It is the female of the species that is used for commercial purposes. The females live stuck to the leaf stalks of some varieties of prickly pears. They are covered with whitish powder which they wrap themselves in when laying eggs. The individuals embed in the prickly pear leaf stalks and after fertilisation, they dry up and are reduced to dust which gives a red-purple dye called carmine, which is used for different applications (cosmetics, food, textiles). In the second half of the 19th century, the exploitation of cochineal reached its peak as big shipments were made to Great Britain, France and other countries. Subsequently, this practice declined due to the use of artificial dyes; these were cheaper and replaced the valued carmine. Nowadays, there are still some islanders who collect cochineal given there is still demand in cosmetics, pharmaceutical products and even for food because of its natural origin.

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SL速

SL速-FV 29 | Antigua - Betancuria

Map 6

SL速-FV 29

Antigua - Betancuria

SL速-FV 29 Duration Expected 2 hrs. 30 min.

Severity of the Natural Environment 1

594 m

Orientation of the Itinerary

Lowest Point

263 m

Difficulty of the Hike

Approx. Total Distance

5,5 km

Effort Required

Highest Point

Type of Route

Straight to a Destination

Profile

Path

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SL®

SL®-FV 29 | Antigua - Betancuria

This trail is one of the oldest of the island; it used to link Caleta de Fuste to Betancuria. Moreover, it was one of the trails used by the pilgrims of the island to worship the patron saint of Fuerteventura, the Virgen de la Peña. This local trail starts at Plaza de la Iglesia de Antigua. From Calle Virgen de Antigua, it heads south and then turns onto Calle Molino down to the end where you will face an intersection. On your right, there is a cereal mill, and further on to your left you will see a watermill. Then continue straight on towards the west and the trail will climb up to the Degollada del Marrubio, also known as Degollada de la Villa. In this gorge, the local trail unites with the first part of stretch 5 of the GR-131 and together they head towards Betancuria. From here, you can stop to gaze upon the village you have just left and westwards, you will see the town that was the first capital of Fuerteventura, Betancuria. Gradually go down between the hills by an earthern track until you reach Calle San Buenaventura which will lead you to the town centre of the former capital. Then cross the secondary road FV-30 and, taking Calle Hermanos Martín Fajardo, you will reach the destination of this route: the church Santa María de Betancuria.

Trail

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SL速

SL速-FV 29 | Antigua - Betancuria

The Mafasca Light On Fuerteventura, there is a legend and popular belief known as the Mafasca light. It is a light that appears some nights before hikers on lonely paths. Its presence is most frequent between the months of November and February, especially in rainy years. It appears both in clear and in cloudy nights. Among the different versions of the Mafasca light, the essence of the legend dates from the beginning of the 19th century. The story tells that a hungry herdsman who was far from any town or village walked about during the night in the search of food. Luckily for him though, he found a flock resting without a herdsman. He ran as fast as he could towards it and took one of the rams. Once he had it ready to roast, he started looking for wood to make the fire. However, on an island as desert-like as Fuerteventura, it was almost impossible to find wood. The only wood he found was a cross as it was a tradition on the island to place a wooden cross where a person had died. Because of his starved state, he could only think of satisfying his hunger and used the cross to make the fire. Once he had finished his feast, he died for not having respected the holy cross. The oral tradition relates that the spirit of the dead shepherd wanders around the island as a light. Some argue that he has come back as an animal and call him the ram or el ovejo, but most of the Majoreros who claim to have seen him describe a fickle light that jumps about in different places, especially in the south of Antigua and in the Llano de Mafasca, where its name comes from. They also identify him as a ball of light that has accompanied walkers home during their night strolls.

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Whether the legend is accurate or not, there are many Majoreros, especially seniors, who claim having seen it at night in the countryside of Fuerteventura.

SL速-FV 29 | Antigua - Betancuria

SL速

115

SL®

SL®-FV 31 | Tiscamanita - Vega de Río Palmas

Map 6

SL®-FV 31

Tiscamanita - Vega de Río Palmas

SL®-FV 31 Duration Expected 3 hrs. 30 min.

Severity of the Natural Environment 1

688 m

Orientation of the Itinerary

Lowest Point

270 m

Difficulty of the Hike

Approx. Total Distance

6,3 km

Effort Required

Highest Point

Type of Route

Straight to a Destination

Profile

Tiscamanita

116

SL®

SL®-FV 31 | Tiscamanita - Vega de Río Palmas

Wild olive tree

You will start this local trail at the crossroads between Calle Juan Peñate and Calle de la Cruz. When you enter the village of Tiscamanita, you will see several examples of the traditional domestic architecture of the island. After the last houses, take the earthern track; it will lead you to a rest area which is a good place to enjoy beautiful views on Tiscamanita, and the gavias and mills that the village shelters. Next, go up by Majada de la Mujer which is covered in prickly pear plantations (Opuntia spp.) and American agaves (Agave americana). If you are careful, you may see ‚dog tooth‘ (Caralluma burchardii) on both sides of the trail, a small endemic species on the eastern islands which nowadays figures in the catalogue of threatened species of the Canaries. During your ascent, you will also see examples of the wild olive tree locally known as Majorero acebuche (Olea europaea Trail

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SL®

SL®-FV 31 | Tiscamanita - Vega de Río Palmas

ssp. guanchica), spurges (Euphorbia spp.) and verodes (Kleinia neriifolia) which are present until Morro Tabaibe. From this promontory, you can make out some mountains that break the vast plain that is the central area of the island. Then keep walking towards Morro Jorjado, named after the endemic species that grows on this promontory, Canary Island daisies (Asteriscus sericeus). Then go towards Degollada de la Pechillera until you reach Morro del Rincón del Atajo, where the route joins the local trail that comes from Agua de Bueyes (SL-FV 28). The two routes descend together by the Cuesta del Ahorcado down to Calle Pedro Peña. This street goes towards Plaza de Nuestra Señora de la Peña, the patron saint of Fuerteventura.

Watermills Watermills are another vestige to recall the agricultural past of the island. This activity was diminished by the increase of tourism during the second half of the 20th century, and nowadays, it is only present in limited areas. Watermills were used to irrigate agricultural lands. In order to do so, water was extracted from the underground thanks to wind-force and was then stored in ponds near the mills. The first watermills on Fuerteventura had a wooden structure with cloth-covered blades. They were firstly installed in 1910 and then evolved into metal mills, from America, such as the Aeromotor Chicago types. That is where their popular name “chicagos” comes from. These technological improvements benefitted alfalfa and tomato production, especially during the 1930s, when they reached their peak. 118

American windmill

SL®

SL®-FV 53 | Cardón - El Tanquito

Map 10

SL®-FV 53

Cardón - El Tanquito

SL®-FV 53 Duration Expected

2 hrs.

Highest Point

416 m

Orientation of the Itinerary

Lowest Point

224 m

Difficulty of the Hike

Effort Required

Approx. Total Distance Type of Route

4 km

Severity of the Natural Environment 1

Forth and Back

Profile

Smooth hills

119

SL®

SL®-FV 53 | Cardón - El Tanquito

Jandía mountain range steep relief

This local trail coincides with the route followed by those devoted to the Virgen del Tanquito who celebrate the pilgrimage the first Saturday of June, carrying a picture of the virgin from the chapel of Cardón to El Tanquito. This pilgrimage has taken place since the beginning of the 20th century, when the figure of the virgin was distinguished on the rock of a gallery. You will start your route in the village of Cardón, among gavias and greenhouses, and head towards the Barranco de los Tanques. Next, you will climb between the Mojón and the Cuesta Vieja which are surrounded by sparse vegetation mostly made up of gorse (Launaea arborescens). Then go towards El Pedregullo until you get to a circle surrounded by stones; this is where believers rest during their pilgrimage to El Tanquito. From this point, the landscape is captivating with its subtle contrast of rounded slopes in the north and the steep relief of the mountain range of Jandía in the south. You will leave Majada del Huertito on your right, while walking among spurges (Euphorbia spp.) and verodes (Kleinia neriifolia) and contemplating the El Tanquito chapel magnitude of the arch of Cofete where it begins, in the Isthmus of La Pared, to where it ends, at Punta Pesebre.

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If you go a bit further you will find a gate you have to close behind you. This means you are only a few metres from the end of this small itinerary: El Tanquito, a holy place where believers come to ask favours and make promises to the Virgin.

SL®-FV 53 | Cardón - El Tanquito

SL®

Istmo de La Pared (La Pared Isthmus) The peninsula of Jandía is united to the rest of the island by the isthmus of La Pared, a long, narrow and plain area which links the Macizo de Jandía with the western coast of Fuerteventura (Macizo de Betancuria). This landscape is characterised by the massive presence of jable, i.e. organogenic sands that are moved by the trade winds over which significant caliche crusts have formed. The jable occupies a considerable expanse where interesting plants such as the so-called balancones (Traganum moquinii), the Canarian chaparro (Convolvulus caput-medusae), Lotus lancerottensis , commonly named ‘small heart’, and sea-spurge (Euphorbia paralias) have adapted to live in conditions of extreme aridness.

La Pared isthmus covered in jable

Furthermore, it is an area where many steppe birds take refuge: the stone curlew (Burhinus oedicnemus insularum), the black-bellied sandgrouse (Pterocles orientalis), the cream-coloured courser (Cursorius cursor) and the endemic Canarian houbara (Chlamydotis undulata fuertaventurae), the animal symbol of Fuerteventura.

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Tindaya mountain

Glossary

Glossar

Glossary

Aborigine (adjective: aboriginal) A member of the indigenous or earliest known population of a region; a native.

Alcogida (relating to the Ecomuseum) It is a term that is particular to Fuerteventura which indicates a piece of land that is prepared to collect rain water.

Aridness State that results from the lack of water, caused by the rareness of rainfalls and by the intensity of evaporation due to high temperatures.

Baifo It is the name Canarians give to kids or goats from birth until weaning.

Barlovento (windward) Place located on the side that is facing the direction the wind is blowing from. It is the opposite of Sotavento or leeward.

Cadenas Stone walls built perpendicular to a slope both to hold back stones from falling down the sides and for farming lands.

Caliche Calcareous crust that forms on the surface by evaporation in arid and semi-arid regions. It is used for making lime.

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Glossar

Cuchillo Long and narrow mountain ending in a ridge as a result of intense erosion.

Degollada (gorge) Depression or narrow passage way between mountains, where rural trails are extemporaneously outlined.

Gavia Cultivation terrace, surrounded by walls, designed to retain water and soil as much as possible.

Gofio Product obtained from grinding previously toasted cereal grain. It has been present in the Canarian diet since the olden days.

Inflorescence Order or way flowers are arranged on plants.

Isthmus Narrow strip of land with sea on either side, forming a link between two continents or a peninsula and a continent.

Jable Land covered with organogenic sand. In Fuerteventura, the recent jables are made up of eolian sands, that is to say sands that are carried by the wind. The old jables are fixed and cemented with caliche.

Macizo (massif) Compact group of connected mountains that form an independent portion of land with very uniform characteristics and clearly-defined limits.

Majada Almost flat area located on the two sides of a ravine riverbed.

125

Glossar

Majo (also known as maxo) The name „Majo“ refers specifically to the aboriginal inhabitants of Lanzarote and Fuerteventura before the islands were conquered by the Europeans.

Majorero From Fuerteventura; belonging or relating to the island of Fuerteventura.

Malpais (karst) Very irregular, rough and sharp-cut surface, in general very chaotic too, which is produced by „aa“ or scoriaceous lava flows.

Millo It is the Canarian word for corn. The term comes from the Portuguese word „milho”.

Natero Wall of different height and width made with dry stone, perpendicular to the ravines or gullies. Its purpose is to gather runoff water and make the land ready to be cultivated

Noria Waterwheel device used to extract water from wells. It is composed of two big gear wheels that move thanks to animal traction (camels, donkeys).

Organogenic Organic sand mainly composed of remains of sea organisms, although it also includes grains that come from minerals and land organisms.

Picón (lapilli) Volcanic sand, coarse and hard, almost always black, which covers the fields of Fuerteventura and retains the humidity of scarce rain showers. Mixed with cement and sand, it is used to build walls, floors, etc. On its own, it is used to cover soil in gardens.

Succulent Plant 126

Plant that has increased the size of its root, stem and leaves to stock the largest amount of water possible. This adaptation

Glossar

allows these plants to survive in arid and dry environments as they keep their liquid reserves during long periods of time.

Sotavento (leeward) Place protected from the wind. It is the opposite of barlovento or windward.

Tablero (plateau) Vast extension of hard tableland or slightly sloping land.

Trade Winds Regular and moderate winds that come from the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. They start out warm and dry, but once they cross the oceans, they carry humidity and get cold. In the northern hemisphere, the air circulates from north to south, but due to Earth rotation, trade winds actually blow from northeast to south-east.

127

El Fraile peak in the JandĂa mountain range

Location Maps

Inselkarten

Location Maps MAPA 2

GR-131 Etapa 1

MAPA 3 GR-131 Etapa 2

MAPA 11

SL-FV 2

PR-FV 1

GR-131 Etapa 2

MAPA 4

GR-131 Etapa 3

PR-FV 9

GR-131 Etapa 3

MAPA 5

PR-FV 15 PR-FV 15.1 PR-FV 15

GR-131 Etapa 4

MAPA 6

SL-FV 29 GR-131 Etapa 5 SL-FV 27

MAPA 7

SL-FV 27

GR-131 Etapa 5

GR-131 Etapa 6

SL-FV 53 GR-131 Etapa 6

MAPA 8

GR-131 Etapa 6

GR-131 Etapa 7

MAPA 9 MAPA 10

GR-131 Etapa 7

PR-FV 56

PR-FV 55 PR-FV 54

GR-131 Etapa 8

GR-131 Etapa 9

Map 1 General Map

Map 2 Stretch 1 | Isla de Lobos

Map 3 Stretch 2 | Corralejo - La Oliva 130

SL-FV 2 | Lajares - Calder贸n Hondo

SL-FV 28

SL-FV 31

Inselkarten

Map 4 Stretch 3 | La Oliva - Tefía PR-FV 9 | Tindaya - Vallebrón - Tefía

Map 5 Stretch 4 | Tefía - Betancuria PR-FV 15 | Tetir - Casillas del Ángel - Tefía PR-FV 15.1 | Tetir - Degollada de Facay - Tefia

Map 7 Stretch 6 | Pájara - La Pared SL®-FV 53 | Cardón - El Tanquito

Map 8 Stretch 7 | La Pared - Risco del Paso

Map 9 Stretch 8 | Risco del Paso - Morro Jable PR®-FV 54 | Morro Jable - Pico de la Zarza

Map 10 Stretch 9 | Morro Jable - Punta de Jandía PR®-FV 54 | Morro Jable - Pico de la Zarza PR®-FV 55 | Gran Valle - Cofete PR®-FV 56 | El Puertito - Caleta de la Madera - El Puertito

Map 11 PR®-FV 1| Barranco de la Cañada de Melián - Esquinzo 131