Game changers pages

In the midst of a cost of living crisis, ‘Field to Fork’ offers a food solution that is both environmentally and economically sound, whilst being healthy and delicious. Game is the quintessential British ingredient, steeped in tradition. Now there is a new breed of game enthusiasts bringing it to the forefront of modern cookery as revealed on pages 28 and 29.

But first let’s meet Robert Hall, pictured left, head gamekeeper of the Houghton Estate in North Norfolk. He and the estate are reaping the benefits of sympathetic, organic land management and animal husbandry.

GAME

changers

The meats are winter favourites but how much do we know about game management and bringing wild meats to our tables? We talk to head gamekeeper Robert Hall and, overleaf, chef Ant Brown

Robert, if you could raise awareness for one thing that is important to our environmental future what would it be?

By starting at the very bottom of the food chain and making habitats good for plants and insects. The result is you’ll be rewarded with greater numbers of farmland birds and mammals. Without the correct foundation you cannot expect to achieve the latter. The production of all game and wildlife is dependent on the three legged stool analogy when good habitat is paired with good weather, plus good and sympathetic predator control - this will achieve success. Without one of the elements the stool will fall over.

What is the most rewarding part of your job at Houghton?

This is a long term project that continually evolves, so to see game and wildlife respond directly to our efforts has definitely got to be the most pleasing part of the job.

What is the most challenging part of modern day game management on an estate like Houghton?

Trying to maintain all the necessary requirements that game and wildlife need to thrive on a busy and diverse estate. Whatever you do it can’t be at the expense of the other enterprises here, or at the expense of the game and wildlife. There is the added pressure from

Grand setting: Houghton Hall, Norfolk

mankind and great numbers of predators. Communication and education are absolute keys to the future.

How important is the welfare of game animals and birds to you as a gamekeeper?

It’s number one, it is everything. Creating good habitats, rich in food shelter and sanctuary, and eco systems which support abundant wildlife is paramount to their ultimate welfare. Equally, providing fine quality grazing for the deer herds and providing good winter forage for them which is grown on the estate. Managing stocking densities is important too.

Can you tell us about your most rewarding project that you have worked on in recent years - one that has benefited the estate’s ecosystems?

The ‘Grey Partridge’ project is, without a doubt, the most rewarding as the benefits to game and other wildlife species has been simply amazing. Recording the highest beneficial insect numbers in the United Kingdom has allowed the farmland, gamebird and songbird populations to explode from corn buntings, yellow hammers, hedge sparrows, lapwings, oystercatchers, golden plovers, stone curlews and, of course, crucially pheasants and grey partridges. In addition managing the deer park is very rewarding.

About Houghton Hall and the Estate

Houghton Hall is the residence of David Cholmondeley, 7th Marquess of Cholmondeley. It was commissioned by Prime Minister Sir Robert Walpole in 1722, and is a key building in the history of English architecture. It is a Grade I listed and surrounded by 1,000 acres of parkland. The park surrounding the Hall was redesigned in the 18th century and, in the process, the village of Houghton was demolished and rebuilt at the main gates of the park with the exception of the medieval Church of St Martin which now stands alone. The grey partridge and (inset) deer on the Houghton Estate

The tasty riches on our doorstep

Chef Ant Brown, above, on the benefits of eating game and what’s in season

The game larder is diverse and plentiful, suited to a wide range of cooking techniques and styles, reaching far beyond the stereotypical ‘shoot dinner’.

Ant Brown is a chef at the forefront of modern game cookery, redefining the way we look at game as an ingredient. As a cook and educator, he has an acute connection to the land and the bounty it provides.

Other than grouse East Anglia has pretty much everything game-wise, says Ant. “The diversity in landscape, from the coastal marshlands through to the fertile farmland and deer parks (and all the woodland between), supports all six species of deer (fallow, sika, red, muntjac, roe and Chinese water deer), a range of wonderful wildfowl and waders, as well one of the key farmlands species, the grey partridge, which benefits from extensive conservations efforts, notably at Houghton, and other large rural estates in the region.”

The coming months provide the greatest opportunity to enjoy game in terms of quality and variety. Says Ant: “From the glorious 12th, and the commencement of the grouse shooting in the Northern uplands, through to the end of January and the close of the pheasant shooting season, it's a time of plenty.

Wild fowl and partridge have been available from September - with each quarry species reaching its peak in terms of eating at some point within the winter period. It’s something to celebrate, to enjoy and to share with others.”

Ant explains another reason for us to select it on Chestnut menus. “Game is a super lean, free range, flavourful and versatile source of protein. Its leanness tends to create challenges when cooking, certainly in terms of the meat becoming dry if overcooked, however, there are a few tricks that make cooking it a little more forgiving. Master these and game can be utilised across the board in a whole range of dishes - it’s something to be embraced and enjoyed!

Above: Winter dining at The

Feathers, Holt

Left: Poached and roasted duck,

heritage carrots, cavolo nero, spiced grilled plums, game sauce with star anise

Ant Brown on game flavours and the best ways to cook wild meats

Pheasant

A light meat - similar to chicken. A pheasant breast really benefits from a marinade in buttermilk to tenderise, with some grated garlic and spices. After a few hours in the fridge scrape off the buttermilk and then egg and breadcrumb the pheasant breast (maybe with some more dried herbs and spices) then fry until golden brown on both sides. Great in a brioche bun with garlic mayo.

Partridge

Try a winter barbecue - cut out the backbone with scissors and press down on the breastbone to flatten the bird. Next marinade in olive oil, lemon zest, garlic and fresh oregano and then grill over super hot coals. Squeeze over some extra lemon juice and season with Maldon salt and eat with your hands.

Wild duck

Wild duck legs are a rare treat, although they take a bit of work. Cure them in a coating of sea salt, thyme and star anise for a couple of hours, wash them off and then confit in duck fat with a couple of cloves of garlic at 120 degrees for four hours in the oven. Remove from the oil and then crisp up in a pan before eating them up quickly! Store them up and do a big batch as they’re very moreish.

Venison

Venison mince is a really affordable alternative to beef. It’s great in a kofta with ground coriander, cumin, paprika, parsley and shallot - served on a flatbread with cucumber raita and finely shredded red cabbage - simply delicious!