BBC Good Food Magazine July 22

Page 1

July 2022

70+ recipes

Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine

July 2022 Courgette pakoras • Barbecued fish with lemon & rosemary • Strawberry tres leches cake

Great summer grills

• Piri-piri pork ribs with chilli butter corn • New twists on BBQ burgers • Halloumi fajita skewers

Freezable recipes to save you money

Tom Kerridge’s cherry bakewell tart 5 HEALTHY SUNSHINE SALADS

£5.75

Low-cost midweek meals

holiday skills + Boost your • •

Make a perfect pavlova

Choose the best pizza oven

Whip up a spicy margarita



July

Welcome to

W

NEW! Have you seen our new videos?

how to make

TOMATO SALSA

We’ve added quick and easy-tofollow videos to more of our most popular recipes. Learn how to make perfect tomato salsa with simple but clever chopping techniques, sweet potato curry, overnight oats, French toast, coffee cake and much more. Plus, find easy, low-cost lunches and healthy meal ideas. Cook along with Benjamina Ebuehi, Tiffany Chang and Poppy O’Toole who’ll inspire you over the summer months. Find them at: bbcgoodfood.com/howto

of This month, we continue our celebration of summer cooking: eating outdoors, firing up the barbecue, picnics in the park and trying recipes inspired by our holidays. Celebrate with us by: • Tuning in to this summer’s BBC Good Food Podcast with Tom Kerridge • Watching our lively new videos on bbcgoodfood.com

hat’s the recipe that most says ‘summer’ to you? A refreshing watermelon & feta salad, punchy jerk chicken or just-picked strawberries sliced over a cheesecake? How about finely chopped tomato salsa spiked with a little red onion and fragrant with coriander? That’s my barbecue essential, instantly conjuring up images of cooking over coals (find the recipe and video at bbcgoodfood.com, see left). It’s good to try new twists, too. This month, we’re making all-new summer classics, including piri-piri pork ribs (p24), a butternut squash veggie burger (p26), Roopa Gulati’s mango & green bean salad (p80), and Barney Desmazery’s roasted red pepper & pesto dressing (p90). Share your summer cooking with us using #GFLetsCookTogether to inspire us all to make new memories. See you next issue, out 28 July.

Christine Hayes, editor-in-chief christine.hayes@immediate.co.uk @bbcgoodfood

Subscribe to and get 12 issues for £39.99, plus a portable barbecue Turn to page 32

• Sharing your al fresco cooking traditions with us on our BBC Good Food Together Facebook group and other social channels using #GFLetsCookTogether

For subscription queries, please call 03330 162 124 or visit buysubscriptions.com/help

Star contributors NADINE BROWN Try Nadine’s fresh and easy midweek meals, packed with veg and bright flavours for fast dinners in the warmer months (p36).

MELISSA THOMPSON Learn the fascinating history of fried chicken from across the world, plus try Melissa’s own recipe at home (p114).

ROOPA GULATI Use storecupboard staple honey in inventive new ways (including a no-churn honey & lime ice cream) using Roopa’s ideas on page 78.

TOM KERRIDGE Master pastry with Tom’s best tips and tricks, then put your skills to good use by baking a British classic with his cherry bakewell tart recipe (p100).

WE ARE COOK THE COVER p24 RECIPE

Barney Desmazery PHOTOGRAPH

Jonathan Gregson FOOD STYLIST

Amy Stephenson STYLIST

Agathé Gits SHOOT DIRECTOR

Ben Curtis

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 3


C RA F T E D BY F OU RT H G E N E R AT I O N L A N C A S H I R E CHEESEMAKERS. Y O U C A N TA S T E W H E N I T’S W A I T R O S E .

S H O P I N S T O R E O R AT W A I T R O S E . C O M

CHIPOTLE CHILLI F I R E C R A C K E R M E LT I N G CHEESE DIP

Waitrose Summer Chipotle Chilli Firecracker Melting Cheese Dip 200g, £4.50, £22.50/kg. Selected stores. Subject to availability. Minimum online spend and delivery charges apply. Prices may vary in Channel Islands, Little Waitrose & Partners and concessions.


Inside JULY 2022 LET’S COOK TOGETHER

9

76

Try recipes shared by our readers, including summery desserts that you can prep ahead, and delicious ideas to make the most of seasonal runner beans

78

1 INGREDIENT, 3 WAYS

Chef Roopa Gulati’s masterclass in honey

YOUR BEST BBQ

84

All the recipes you need to create amazing al fresco feasts on the grill this summer

88

NEW WAYS FOR SUNDAYS

93

SEASONAL

EASY

MIDWEEK

36

LIGHT DINNERS

42

USE YOUR LEFTOVERS

44

BBC CHEF

Fresh, easy, low-cost meals packed with summer veg Ideas for using what’s left of your midweek meals

38 61

103

Fun desserts to make for the summer fête *****

63

FAMILY MATTERS

Help little cooks learn safe boiling techniques

102

Clever ways to level up your lunchboxes

STRAWBERRY DELIGHT

66

COOK SMART

Cool down with our homemade lollies In our new series, find tips, tricks and recipes to reduce waste

DRINKS AWARDS

114

MELISSA THOMPSON

118

COOKBOOK CHALLENGE

119

BOOKS FOR COOKS

120

BEST BUYS

74 75

HEALTHY DIET PLAN

Anti-inflammatory foods to try, plus berry baked oats Try popcorn muesli

The results of this year’s annual supermarket awards Our columnist delves into the history of fried chicken, then shares her own recipe Editor Keith Kendrick on The Spanish Home Kitchen by José Pizarro A round-up of this month’s most anticipated cookbooks The kitchen kit and snacks you didn’t know you needed

COOKING SKILLS

HEALTH NEWS

MY FAVOURITE DISH

Iranian-Welsh chef Leyli Homayoonfar’s Persian khoresh-e ghormeh sabzi (herb, red bean & lamb stew)

109

ANYTIME

65

Use a glut of courgettes in these inspired recipes

OPINION

SUNNY SWEETS

KIDS’ KITCHEN

Whole fish cooked over coals, plus sides and a berry mousse

from the Good Food podcast

Jeremy Pang cooks Sichuan pepper prawns

57

CLOSE CONNECTIONS

Wayne Vowden learns to cook again after losing his sight

KERRIDGE 100 TOM Make Tom’s bakewell tart

FAMILY

49

Satisfying, fresh salads

WEEKEND

COVER STORY 21

5 HEALTHY IDEAS

125

80

KNOW YOUR STUFF

Make a next level pavlova, learn all you need to know about ribs, discover the best pizza ovens and mix up a spicy margarita

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 5


EVERY ISSUE 7 32 71 73 146

00

Why you can trust

RECIPE INDEX Where to find

all the recipes in this issue SUBSCRIBER CLUB Find out about our special offers

BBC Good Food is the UK’s No 1 food lifestyle media brand. We are passionate about food and cooking. While recipes are at the heart of what we do, we are committed to helping you have the best food experience you can, whether you’re shopping for food, in your kitchen or eating out in the UK or abroad. This is what we promise:

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Download for exclusive recipes NEXT MONTH What’s coming up in our August issue LAST BITE

90

Devil’s chocolate dessert

Biggest and best We’re proud to be Britain’s biggest-selling food magazine and the UK’s No 1 food website, bbcgoodfood.com. Our contributors – BBC chefs, our in-house cookery team and confident, outspoken columnists – are experts in their fields. Meet us at the UK’s biggest food shows (visit bbcgoodfoodshow.com for dates and details). Our best-selling cookbooks feature our trusted recipes – you’ll find these in bookshops.

52 READER OFFERS • Save on a versatile sauté pan, p38 • Book a culinary cruise around Scandinavia, p98 • Order an exclusive case of summer white wines from Laithwaites, p106 • Get a Cooks Professional stand mixer for just £69.99, p135 • Save £12 on a collection of Buddleja from Hayloft, p145

Recipes for everyone There are at least 70 recipes in every issue – that’s more than any other food magazine in Britain. We always include quick, easy dishes, ideas for relaxed entertaining and more challenging recipes for when you want to take your skills up a notch. Look out for our many easy recipes.

128 GENERAL ENQUIRIES

020 7150 5865 (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5.30pm) goodfood@immediate.co.uk BBC Good Food, Immediate Media, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT

Families and children Families can need help to create harmonious mealtimes, so we address this by flagging up ‘family’ recipes. We encourage children and teenagers to get cooking with recipes that help them to learn new skills. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/family-kids.

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Ethical We care about the food we eat, the people who produce it and the effect this has on the world. In our Test Kitchen, we use humanely reared British meats, high-welfare chicken and eggs and sustainable fish whenever possible. We aim to help you avoid food waste, with advice on using leftovers. Healthy eating Every recipe is analysed by our BANT-registered nutritionist, so you can be informed when you choose what to eat. We flag up vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free recipes. Find out more about our health philosophy on page 145.

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Tested and trusted All our recipes are thoroughly tested by experts to ensure they’ll work for you. We put our gadgets through a rigorous testing process and carry out our taste tests fairly. Our restaurant and travel recommendations have all been tried by one of us.

At Immediate Media, publishers of BBC Good Food, we respect and value differences. We understand that when people from different backgrounds and with different points of view work together, we can create the most value for our readers, our people and society. We always strive to be inclusive, but we need to do better. We have been taking time to listen and understand how we can make positive changes, and how we can better support and increase diversity across all our brands. We continue to work on a comprehensive plan to create and drive authentic change.

Eating like a local One of the joys of travel – both in the UK and overseas – is discovering great food. Our features are written from an insider perspective by on-the-ground writers and food and travel journalists. Independent and respected As you’d expect from a BBC brand, we are impartial and independent, so you can trust our advice and recommendations on everything from restaurants and wine to kitchen gadgets and more. We encourage your input on your local finds, and appreciate your feedback on our recommendations. Food is our passion and pleasure We take food seriously, but we also believe it’s a pleasure to be enjoyed, whether cooking for the family, trying an unfamiliar ingredient, buying new products or eating out. We share our food discoveries and adventures with you – and love you to share the same with us on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Snapchat.

AWARDS Britain’s number one food media brand BSME AWARDS 2021 Editor of the year, food & drink Lily Barclay group digital editor

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PPA Awards 2020

Media Brand of the Year BBC Good Food

Special Interest Brand of the Year, Gold BBC Good Food magazine

6 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

The Guild of Food Writers Awards 2020 Food Magazine of the Year BBC Good Food magazine

British Media Awards

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Digital Project of the Year 2019 bbcgoodfood.com

B2C Website of the Year Award 2019 bbcgoodfood.com

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index make it, snap it, post it We’ll share the best on Twitter and Instagram

86

@bbcgoodfood #bbcgoodfood Runner bean tortilla 16

Summer veg tostadas 38 Sweet & sour bean curry 41 Tofu omelettes with soy dressing 39

SIDES, STARTERS, SOUPS & EXTRAS

INSTANT

RECIPE FINDER BREAKFAST & BRUNCH Popcorn muesli 75 Smoky chickpeas on toast 68 Vegan almond berry baked oats 74

72 recipes

FISH & SEAFOOD

Barbecued fish with lemon & rosemary 90 Crab canelones 118 Easy salmon sushi rice bowl 60 Runner bean, smoked trout in this issue MEAT & potato salad 16 Barbecue beef burger 30 Salt & Sichuan pepper prawns 44 Khoresh-e ghormeh sabzi (Persian herb, Tuna niçoise pasta salad 42 red bean & lamb stew) 105 Tuna, olive & spinach spaghetti 40 MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE VEGETARIAN MAINS Piri-piri pork ribs 24 10-minute couscous salad 76 POULTRY BBQ halloumi fajita skewers 28 Chicken garden salad with elderflower Butternut squash burgers 26 Chickpea salad 76 dressing 76 Fried chicken 116 Cold or hot pea & mint soup 42 Courgette curry 96 Honey & soy chicken 80 Katsu curry wrap 69 Greek-style pasta salad 58 Kisir (Turkish bulgur salad) 76 Lemon & herb chicken club burger 22 Mango & green bean salad with honey Turkey minestrone 42 & passion fruit dressing 80 Turkey sausage & pesto soup 38 Moroccan-style chickpea soup 67 Pearled spelt salad with peas & gooseberries 76 RECIPE KEY

Vegan

Vegetarian

Balanced

Low cal

Low fat

Gluten free

Baked tortilla chips 42 Barbecue burger relish 30 Chilli butter corn 24 Courgette pakoras 96 Fennel & cumin seed slaw 24 Golden noodle soup with soft-boiled eggs 61 Minted tomato salad 42 Quick icing 102 Roasted red pepper & pesto dressing 90 Runner bean chutney 16 Runner beans with rocket & parmesan 16 Savoury pastry 102 Smoky new potatoes 90 Spiced bean hummus 42 Thyme & oregano chips 70 Two bean & herb salad 90

COCKTAILS & DRINKS Fresh mint tea 42 Spicy margarita 132

BAKING & DESSERTS

Cassie’s strawberry tres leches cake 12 Cherry bakewell tart 102 Courgette & lime cake 97 Fairy wand biscuits 53 Frozen fruit crumble 66 Gluten-free lemon shortbreads 51 Healthy oat, banana & raspberry cookies 63 Honey & lime ice cream 82 Il cioccolato del diavolo (The devil’s chocolate) 146 Jam jar trifles 50 Jen’s victoria sponge 86 Madeleines 126 Next level pavlova 128 Simple strawberry mousse 92 Strawberry ice lollies 65 Summer bakewell tart 102 Susan’s easy apricot & marzipan tart 12 Vegan cookies & cream cake 52 Watermelon sugar cookies 54

Suitable for freezing

This magazine is published by Immediate Media Company Limited under licence from BBC Studios © Immediate Media Company Limited, 2020. BBC Good Food provides trusted, independent advice and information that has been gathered without fear or favour. When receiving assistance or sample products from suppliers, we ensure that our editorial integrity and independence are not compromised by never offering anything in return, such as positive coverage, and by including a brief credit where appropriate. We make every effort to ensure the accuracy of the prices displayed in BBC Good Food. However, they can change after we go to print. Please check with the appropriate retailer for full details. Printed by Walstead Bicester in the UK. Text paper Novapress, supplied by StoraEnso from Veitsiluoto Mill in Finland. Immediate Media is working to ensure that all of its paper is sourced from well-managed forests. This magazine is printed on Forest Stewardship Council® (FSC®) certified paper. This magazine can be recycled, for use in newspapers and packaging. We abide by IPSO’s rules and regulations. To give feedback about our magazines, visit bbcgoodfood.com, email goodfoodmagazine@immediate.co.uk or write to Christine Hayes, Immediate Media Company Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, Hammersmith, London W6 7BT.

BBC Good Food magazine is available in both audio and electronic formats from National Talking Newspapers and Magazines. For more information, please contact National Talking Newspapers and Magazines, National Recording Centre, Heathfield, East Sussex TN21 8DB; email info@tnauk.org.uk; or call 01435 866102. If you are enquiring on behalf of someone who has trouble with their sight, please consult them first.

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 7



Get involved in our community and share your recipes, stories and feedback. Plus, our seven-day meal planner makes it easy to decide what to cook For an al fresco pud, try making reader Susan’s apricot tart or our Cassie’s strawberry tres leches cake (see p12)

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 9


What’s your favourite

EASY SUMMER DESSERT? Each month, a member of our cookery team and one of our readers swap recipes for a special occasion recipes SUSAN GREENWOLD & CASSIE BEST photographs MOWIE KAY

GF COOKERY TEAM’S CASSIE

Cassie’s strawberry tres leches cake, p12 Tres leches cake originated in Latin America – it’s made by soaking sponge cake in three types of milk (usually they are evaporated and condensed milk and double cream). This results in a sweet, milky flavour and a pillow-soft pudding texture. It’s topped with billows of whipped cream and often a pinch of cinnamon or drizzle of dulce de leche, but I think the addition of strawberries takes it to another level. In summer, when strawberries are at their best, this is the dessert I always take to garden parties. You can make it ahead (in fact, it benefits from being chilled) and cuts like a dream – everyone who tries a piece loves it. Cassie Best, food director

10 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022


GF READER SUSAN

Susan’s easy apricot & marzipan tart, p12 I live with my elderly dad, and we’re lucky to have a beautiful garden. So, when the weather permits, we have family round and eat al fresco. I tend to make this for dessert, as I can prep most of it before anyone comes and put it in the oven while the mains are being served. My inspiration for this recipe was actually from a lady I follow on Instagram – I loved the image, so I decided to make my own version. I always use homemade marzipan because I prefer it to shop-bought. I love this recipe because it’s so simple to assemble and everyone I’ve made it for has complimented me on it. I’ve also made it with blackberries, and I think cherries would also be lovely, too. I usually serve it with either vanilla ice cream or cream. Susan Greenwold, Colchester, Essex

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 11


SERVES 15-18 PREP 35 mins plus cooling COOK 35 mins EASY V ❄ sponge only

flavourless oil (such as vegetable), for the tin 4 eggs, separated 200g caster sugar 1 tsp vanilla extract 200g plain flour 1 tsp baking powder 200ml milk 410g can evaporated milk 200ml sweetened condensed milk 400g strawberries, hulled and sliced 2 tbsp icing sugar 400ml double cream pinch of ground cinnamon

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Lightly oil the base and sides of a 20 x 30cm cake tin and line with baking parchment. Put the egg whites in a large bowl with a pinch

Susan’s easy apricot & marzipan tart SERVES 8 PREP 30 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V

320g sheet ready-rolled puff pastry 250g fresh or canned apricots (if fresh, destone and halve; if canned, drain) 1 tbsp flaked almonds 3 tbsp apricot jam cream or ice cream, to serve For the marzipan 175g golden caster sugar 280g icing sugar 450g ground almonds 1 tsp vanilla extract 2 eggs, beaten ½ tsp lemon juice 4 tbsp single cream

1 First, make the marzipan. Mix both sugars with the ground

12 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

of salt and beat using an electric whisk until foamy, about 3 mins. Add 150g of the caster sugar, a spoonful at a time, whisking until thick and glossy. 2 In a separate bowl, beat the egg yolks, remaining caster sugar and vanilla together for 2 mins until pale and foamy. Add the flour, baking powder and 100ml milk, and use a spatula to fold everything together. 3 Add a large spoonful of the whisked egg whites and beat in to loosen the mixture, then gently fold in the remaining egg whites using a large metal spoon (be careful not to over-stir so you don’t knock out the air). The batter should be smooth. 4 Pour the batter into the prepared tin, level the surface and bake for 30-35 mins until a skewer inserted into the centre comes out clean. Mix together the evaporated and condensed milks along with the remaining 100ml fresh milk, then set aside until needed. 5 Remove the sponge from the oven and leave to cool in the tin for

20 mins. Invert into a deep baking tray or tin – it needs to be deep enough to hold the sponge and the milk mixture. Remove the parchment from the sponge and poke holes over the surface with a skewer. Pour over half the milk mixture and leave to soak for 10 mins – at this stage, most of the liquid should have soaked in. Pour over the rest of the milk mixture – it will pool around the sponge, but will absorb as it rests. Leave to cool for 30 mins, then chill while you prepare the strawberries. Will keep chilled for up to a day. 6 Mix the strawberries with the icing sugar and leave to macerate for 10 mins. Whip the double cream and cinnamon together to soft peaks. Spoon the cinnamon cream over the sponge, spread to the edges and pile on the strawberries. Cut into squares to serve. Will keep chilled for up to a day.

almonds and vanilla in a large bowl. Make a well in the middle. Reserve 1 tsp of the beaten egg in a small dish, then tip the rest into the well along with the lemon juice. Mix everything well, then mix in the cream, 1 tbsp at a time, until the mixture is spreadable (you may not need all the cream). Chill for 20 mins if it’s too warm to spread properly, or greasy. Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. 2 Roll out the puff pastry on a baking tray lined with baking parchment, then score it lightly around the edges to create a 1.5cm border – be careful not to cut all the way through. Lightly score a diamond pattern over the middle to keep the pastry from rising in the centre during cooking. 3 Spread the marzipan over the middle of the pastry, leaving the border clear (see tip, right). Top

with the apricots, cut-side down. Brush the border with the reserved beaten egg, then bake for 15 mins. Scatter over the flaked almonds. Bake for 5-10 mins more until the almonds are golden and the pastry has cooked through. 4 Warm the jam over a low heat, then brush it over the apricots. Cut into squares and serve warm with ice cream or cream. Will keep chilled for up to two days.

ABOUT CASSIE Our food director Cassie trained as a chef at Leiths School of Food and Wine and has since created hundreds of recipes at Good Food. She has a passion for creating easy family meals and special bakes. @cassiecooks

PER SERVING (18) 307 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 10g • carbs 32g • sugars 24g • fibre 1g • protein 6g • salt 0.3g

PER SERVING 811 kcals • fat 46g • saturates 9g • carbs 80g • sugars 65g • fibre 2g • protein 19g • salt 0.4g

You may not need all the marzipan for this tart. Try using any leftovers in our cranberry & marzipan baked apples recipe – find it on bbcgoodfood.com.

ABOUT SUSAN Susan’s love of baking came from her late mother, who would bake for neighbours, friends and people in their village. She now lives with her elderly father, and is lucky to be able to bake and cook to her heart’s content. She enjoys using her spare time to help others, just like her mother did.

& Would you like to submit a recipe for a future issue? Join the BBC Good Food Together group on Facebook for details of each month’s theme.

Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist MAX ROBINSON

Cassie’s strawberry tres leches cake


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Follow our

7-DAY MEAL PLAN During busy weeks, you may feel you don’t have enough time to think about what you’re going to cook every night. However, setting aside an hour to plan a menu and shopping list at the start of the week will save you lots of time, and cuts down on food waste.

M O N DAY

We share some of the recipes we’re excited to cook from this issue and on bbcgoodfood.com

Get ahead for the week

T U E S DAY

Healthy pud

Sweet & sour bean curry

Vegan almond berry baked oats

Summer fish stew

PAGE 41

PAGE 74

FIND IT ONLINE

You can serve this curry with rice or naan for a satisfying meal, and it delivers two of your five-a-day.

While this is a breakfast dish, it also works as a low-fat dessert – just the thing for using up a glut of berries.

This can be made in advance and frozen in portions for busy days.

W E D N E S DAY

Meat-free dinner

Lunch

Summer treat

Turkey sausage & pesto soup

Strawberry ice lollies

PAGE 38

PAGE 65

For a light lunch or speedy supper, this soup packs in lots of flavour, plus plenty of fibre and vitamin C.

Keep your cool! If you have berries that are turning a bit mushy, they’re ideal for making these lollies.

Speedy breakfast

Dinner Honey & soy chicken

Sunshine smoothie

PAGE 80

FIND IT ONLINE

Try making an extra batch of this finger-licking chicken supper for stashing in the freezer.

For summer in a glass, blitz carrot juice, pineapples and bananas.

14 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

Dinner Spiced bulgur pilaf with fish FIND IT ONLINE

Inspired by the flavours of North African cuisine, this one-pot is aromatic and satisfying.

Preserve the season Runner bean chutney PAGE 16

While this veg is available in abundance, make the most of it.


Popcorn muesli

After-school treat

Cook with the kids

PAGE 75

Watermelon sugar cookies

You’ve heard of snap, crackle and pop? This cereal is our take on it – and it’s wholesome, too.

PAGE 54

Golden noodle soup with soft-boiled eggs

These summery biscuits are great for a little afternoon pick-me-up.

Older kids will enjoy making this.

Gluten-free snack

Friday night curry

PAGE 61

F R I DAY

T H U RS DAY

Breakfast

Light lunch Quick chicken hummus bowl FIND IT ONLINE

Breakfast

Lemon shortbreads PAGE 51

Who could resist? No one is left out with this zesty traybake.

Courgette curry PAGE 96

Showcase the best of this seasonal veg with a good kick of spice.

Breakfast naans

Bake with the kids

Saturday night fakeaway

FIND IT ONLINE

Fairy wand biscuits

Barbecue beef burger

Try a different spin on avocado and eggs on toast – it only takes 10 minutes in the morning.

PAGE 53

PAGE 30

Make the weekend magical for little ones with our star-shaped biscuits.

Homemade burgers always impress for a get-together in the garden.

SU N DAY

SAT U R DAY

Using a pouch of mixed grains and shop-bought hummus means this dish can be ready in no time.

Weekend cocktail

Bring out the barbecue

Summer pudding

English garden cocktail

Piri-piri pork ribs

PAGE 128

FIND IT ONLINE

PAGE 24

If you like elderflower and gin, this is the tipple for you.

Light the coals for our cover recipe (and you can double it for a crowd).

Wow your guests with a classic dessert that we’ve tweaked to absolute perfection.

Next level pavlova

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 15


July’s veg box star

RUNNER BEANS As well as being easy to cook with, you can preserve this allotment staple for enjoying all year round, like in this zingy chutney recipe SAMUEL GOLDSMITH photograph MOWIE KAY

Runner bean chutney

on the sides. Cut diagonally into /2cm pieces. Bring a large pan of water to the boil and cook the beans for around 3 mins to soften slightly. Drain and plunge into a bowl of iced water, leave to cool for 5 mins, then drain and set aside. 2 Put the pan back on the hob and cook the onions in 350ml of the vinegar over a medium-low heat for 15 mins to soften, stirring occasionally. Add the sugar and 250ml of the remaining vinegar and cook for 2 mins more. 3 Combine the turmeric, mustard seeds and powder and nigella seeds with the cornflour, a good pinch of 1

MAKES about 2.5kg PREP 30 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V

1.2kg runner beans 3 large white onions, chopped 700ml white wine vinegar 400g light brown soft sugar 1 tbsp ground turmeric 1 ½ tbsp mustard seeds ½ tbsp English mustard powder 1 tbsp nigella seeds 65g cornflour

1 Trim the ends of the beans and gently pull away any stringy bits

salt and the remaining 100ml vinegar. Mix well, then tip into the onion mixture and stir to combine. Cook for 3 mins to thicken, then add the beans. Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 30 mins, stirring regularly until the beans are tender but have a slight bite and the chutney has thickened slightly. Remove from the heat and decant into sterilised jars. Will keep sealed in a cool, dry place for up to three months. Once open, keep in the fridge for up to two weeks. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • gluten free PER TBSP 21 kcals • fat 1g • saturates none • carbs 4g • sugars 3g • fibre 0.3g • protein 1g • salt 0.01g

Ideas from the food team

...and from our readers

Runner bean tortilla Boil 200g runner beans (cut into thin strips) for 5 mins. Drain. Whisk 5 eggs with the zest of 1 lemon, 2 finely grated large garlic cloves, 3 thickly sliced pimento-stuffed olives and some pepper. Stir in the beans. Heat 2 tsp rapeseed oil in a 23cm frying pan. Pour in the egg mix and stir for 2 mins. Leave to firm up for a few minutes, then turn off the heat, cover and leave for 5 mins. Scatter with grated parmesan or hard cheese.

‘We normally make a dry curry with runner beans, potatoes and chicken, beef or mutton.’ Famida Nana, Pretoria, South Africa

Runner bean, smoked trout & potato salad Mix together 50ml extra virgin olive oil, the juice of ½ lemon, 2 tbsp red wine vinegar, 2 tsp wholegrain mustard and 1 tbsp horseradish sauce. Boil 500g halved new potatoes for 10 mins, then drain. Repeat with 300g trimmed and sliced runner beans, plunge into ice water and drain. Toss the potatoes and beans with 2 sliced spring onions, ½ bunch of chopped parsley and half the dressing. Scatter over 150g flaked smoked trout and drizzle over the remaining dressing. Runner beans with rocket & parmesan Mix 50ml extra virgin olive oil with the juice of 1 lemon and set aside. Boil 300g trimmed and sliced runner beans in a large pan of salted water for 8 mins, or until tender. Drain and leave to cool a little. Toss the beans with half the dressing, 50g roughly chopped walnut halves and 50g rocket. Tip into a serving dish and scatter with 25g shaved parmesan, then drizzle over the remaining dressing.

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‘I make a tuna salad with runner beans, couscous or bulgur wheat, lemon juice, sweetcorn, tomatoes and cucumber.’ Laura Smith, Bournemouth ‘They are a traditional dish in my area, the Rhineland. We ferment them like sauerkraut, then cook them in a clear soup with potatoes and meat. Another common way to have them is cooked with onions, bacon and a white sauce, served with potatoes, meat or sausages.’ Marion Sandkuehler, Duisburg, Germany

& For these recipes and more, go to bbcgoodfood.com/ runner-bean-recipes

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Sparking food memories We talk to a chef who develops nostalgic recipes to comfort people with dementia Matthew Dodge is an acclaimed chef with 15 years’ experience, including at the Savoy and various care facilities. Growing up with close relatives diagnosed with dementia and later dysphagia, as well as a keen interest in food, pushed him ‘to strive for better knowledge of the syndrome and to incorporate it into my recipe development’. So, when the opportunity arose to work at care facility Loveday & Co, chef Matthew could not turn it down. ‘High-quality, appetising, tasty food is one of the cornerstones at Loveday,’ he explains. ‘We extensively researched the healthiest diet for ageing people – which is along similar lines to a classic Mediterranean diet.’ Putting residents’ needs to the forefront is key because, he says, ‘Food is hugely emotive and a key component to optimising health and happiness.’ The communal dining experience is also part of the philosophy. ‘I personally sit with every member and get to know their favourite meals. Classic home-cooked meals or personal favourites tend to spark vivid memories.’ He’s also found that, sometimes, it is the most traditional dishes that are the most rewarding: ‘We had one resident who loved liver and bacon – she’d eat it regularly with her husband. Since he passed and she moved into care, she hadn’t had the opportunity to have it. So we made it for her. Putting a smile on our members’ faces is the most rewarding part.’ Matthew aims to publish a cookbook alongside the founder of Loveday, Laurence Geller. They already have 200 recipes that include healthy essentials for those with dementia. Matthew hopes his recipes can ‘recreate and provoke those fond memories.’ Maga Flores-Trevino

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YO U R M O N E YSAV I N G I D E AS At Good Food, we always aim to save waste and look for ways to make the weekly shop stretch further, so we asked our community to share their top tips with us. Let us know yours using the hashtag #gfcooksmart

Grated cheese – buy a large block when there’s a special deal, grate and freeze. It has so many uses. Also, freeze breadcrumbs, crumble toppings and pastry mixes (at the dry stage). Frances Martin, Shoreham-by-Sea

Jars of minced ginger and garlic. Keep in the fridge and use as needed. Tracy Knatt, London

If you have citrus fruit that’s past its best, boil whole, remove the pips, then blitz and freeze for use in almond-based cakes. Great vegan treats! Also, freeze bananas for later use in baking.

Make your own frozen chef’s base (mirepoix – finely diced celery, onion and carrots). It’s the basis of a lot of cooking and saves time cutting veg all the time. Lesley Fraser, Livingston

Liz Leek, Nottingham

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It’s great to hear your stories and feedback. This one from Lisa caught my attention this month: I just wanted to say a massive thank you. I’ve been a subscriber now for over 10 years and use your recipes every day! Three years ago, I was diagnosed with type-1 diabetes and BBC Good Food has been a vital part of successfully controlling my blood sugars, keeping me alive. With type-1 diabetes, you have to count your carbohydrates and work out your insulin based on your intake. I just LOVE that you provide accurate nutritional information with every recipe; it makes my life so much easier and helps me feel ‘normal’ again, and I’m sure it does the same for many other diabetics out there. Receiving my new magazine is one of the highlights of each month! Lisa Cregg, Isle of Wight

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Get your

grill on

Long summer evenings call for cooking over the coals – and with these recipes, you’ll have all occasions covered recipes THE GOOD FOOD TEAM photographs JONATHAN GREGSON

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 21


Lemon & herb chicken club burger The joy of barbecuing chicken breasts is that they take minutes to cook, which makes them suitable for all barbecues – whether you’re cooking on a portable one or using a larger grill in the garden. Here, we’ve stacked the chicken with a winning combination of bacon, lettuce, avocados and a lemony burger sauce. SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus chilling COOK 20 mins EASY

4 skinless, boneless chicken breasts 8 rashers smoked bacon 4 burger buns, split 4 slices of your favourite cheese (optional) 2 avocados, halved, stoned, peeled and sliced 2 tomatoes, sliced 4 handfuls of lettuce leaves For the marinade 1 garlic clove 2 tsp chopped thyme leaves, or 1 tsp dried thyme ½ lemon, juiced 3 tbsp olive oil For the burger sauce 3 tbsp mayonnaise 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tsp mustard small splash of chilli sauce (optional)

1 First, make the marinade. Crush the garlic with the thyme and a pinch of salt using a pestle and mortar. Add the lemon juice, olive oil and plenty of cracked black pepper and mash together to combine. Lay the chicken breasts out on a board and flatten slightly

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using a rolling pin until they are an even thickness. Transfer to a container with the marinade, then seal, shake and chill until needed, or for up to 1 hr. Light the barbecue and wait until the coals are ashen, or heat a gas barbecue to medium. Mix the sauce ingredients together in a small bowl and keep chilled. 2 Cook the bacon on the barbecue for 3-4 min until crisp. Remove to a plate and set aside. Toast the cut side of the buns where you grilled the bacon to soak up the fat, then remove and set aside. Barbecue the marinated chicken breasts for 4-5 mins on each side until lightly charred. Top each with a slice of cheese, if using, and cook for a few minutes more until the cheese has melted and the chicken is cooked through (a probe thermometer should read at least 65C). 3 Spread the base of each bun with the sauce, then top with the avocado slices, tomatoes, chicken, bacon and lettuce. Sandwich with the bun tops, press down lightly and serve. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 733 kcals • fat 44g • saturates 9g • carbs 26g • sugars 4g • fibre 5g • protein 56g • salt 2.2g

BARBECUING ON A BUDGET Chicken breasts are quick and easy to cook, but cheaper skinless, boneless chicken thighs would also work in this burger. If you’re using thighs, open them out first and trim away any excess fat or sinew. Cover with baking parchment and use a rolling pin to flatten them out to an even thickness. Cook for 7-8 mins on each side – check they’re ready by cutting into the thickest part of the meat (the juices should run clear) or use a thermometer (it should read 65C).

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SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins plus at least 2 hrs marinating COOK 2-4 hrs (depending on your choice of method) MORE EFFORT

2 racks baby back pork ribs (600-700g each) For the marinade 3 red chillies 6 garlic cloves, roughly chopped 100ml red wine vinegar 2 tbsp honey 200g ketchup 1 tbsp light brown soft sugar 1 tbsp smoked paprika 2 tsp dried oregano

1 Tip all the marinade ingredients into a mini chopper or blender along with a large pinch of salt and blitz until smooth. If there’s a thin membrane on the back of the ribs, peel this off as best you can. Smear half the marinade over the ribs, then transfer to a large plate, cover and chill for at least 2 hrs or up to 24 hrs. 2 If you have a lidded or kettle barbecue, set it up for indirect cooking (with coals on one side and a drip tray under where you’ll be cooking the ribs). If you can read the temperature on your barbecue, it should be at about 150C. Or, heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. If slow-cooking on the barbecue over the drip tray, first pour 500ml water into the tray, lay the ribs on the grill rack above, cover the barbecue with its lid and cook the ribs for 2-3 hrs, turning occasionally and topping up the tray with water if needed. If you’re starting the ribs off in the oven, put them in a roasting tray,

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cover tightly with foil and bake for 2 hrs-2 hrs 30 mins until the bones are exposed and the meat is tender. While the ribs are cooking, tip the rest of the marinade into a small saucepan and simmer for 10 mins until thick and gloopy –this is the sauce to serve with the ribs. When the ribs are cooked, leave to cool a little and tip any cooking juices into the barbecue sauce. The sauce and ribs can be prepared up to two days ahead, left to cool then kept chilled. 3 Remove the ribs to a board and remove the drip tray from the barbecue, if using. Set the barbecue up for direct cooking, light some new coals or set a gas barbecue to medium. Return the ribs to the grill, then brush generously with the sauce. Working quickly, grill the ribs, basting with more sauce as soon as they start to char and turn every minute until well-coated, charred at the edges, caramelised and sticky. Serve each person a half-rack of ribs with any extra sauce on the side.

& Discover more about how to successfully cook top-quality ribs this summer on page 127.

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Of course we all know that smoky piri-piri spices work well with chicken, but they’re also great in sticky barbecue sauce, especially on these pull-apart pork ribs. True barbecue ribs are first semi-smoked on the barbecue, and will have bounce and bite rather than a ‘fall-offthe-bone’ texture. But, they can also be started off in the oven and finished on the barbecue – here, we’re giving you both options.

ma

Piri-piri pork ribs

e r re

Fennel & cumin seed slaw SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins NO COOK EASY V

Toast 1 tsp fennel seeds and 1 tsp cumin seeds in a dry frying pan over a low-medium heat until fragrant. Finely shred 1 pointed cabbage, coarsely grate 1 large carrot and finely slice 1 red onion. Tip the spices and veg into a bowl and scrunch together with a large pinch of salt. Toss through 1 tbsp cider or white wine vinegar, leave to rest for a few minutes, then dress in 3 tbsp olive oil and 1 tsp Dijon mustard to serve. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 159 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 1g • carbs 12g • sugars 4g • fibre 7g • protein 4g • salt 0.3g

Chilli butter corn SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

Mix 1 large handful of coriander leaves, finely chopped, 1 red chilli, finely chopped, and the zest of 1 unwaxed lime. Mash this into 50g softened butter with a pinch of salt. Set aside or chill until needed. Halve 4 corn cobs, then brush lightly with vegetable oil. Cook on the barbecue for 10 mins, turning until lightly charred. Tip into a bowl with the spiced butter. Toss until the corn is fully coated. GOOD TO KNOW 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 142 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 7g • carbs 6g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.2g


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KNOW YOUR PORK RIBS  Baby back These are the most tender of the pork ribs available. They’re squatter and more uniform in size than spare ribs, and are best cooked and served as a rack.  Spare ribs Cut from the bones attached to the pork belly, these are meatier and larger than baby back. Separate and cook as single or double-rib chops.

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 25


Butternut squash burgers These meat-free burgers are incredibly simple to make and require very little prep work. The natural sugars in the squash caramelise well on the barbecue, and a kick of chilli heightens the flavours.

1 butternut squash (choose one with a long neck, if you can) 1 red chilli, finely chopped 1 large garlic clove, finely grated 2 tbsp garlic-infused oil small handful of parsley, finely chopped handful of wild rocket 4 burger buns (ensure vegan, if needed) 4 tbsp mayonnaise (ensure vegan, if needed) 1 large tomato, sliced into 4, to serve

1 Cut the squash in half where the neck meets the bulbous part. Reserve the bulbous part for another recipe (see tip, right). Trim the stem at the top of the neck, then carefully slice into roughly 1cm discs – you should get about eight, depending on the length. Set aside. 2 Combine the chilli, garlic and oil with a pinch each of salt and ground pepper in a small bowl. 3 Light the barbecue and wait until the coals are ashen. Brush one side of the squash discs with the chilli and garlic mixture, then season with salt. Cook oiled-side down for 10 mins, closing the barbecue if you can and basting with more of the chilli and garlic mixture every few minutes until the discs begin to

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soften. Flip over, brush with more of the chilli and garlic mixture, and cook for a further 10-15 mins, continuing to baste as before. Once tender and slightly caramelised, they are ready. Toss the parsley and rocket in the remaining chilli and garlic mixture. 4 Serve two squash burgers per bun, also filled with some of the dressed rocket and parsley leaves, a spoonful of mayo and slice of tomato. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • folate • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 426 kcals • fat 21g • saturates 3g • carbs 47g • sugars 6g • fibre 4g • protein 10g • salt 1.2g

RAIN OR SHINE If the weather’s not cooperating, heat a frying or griddle pan over a medium-low heat. Brush one side of each squash disc with the chilli and garlic mixture as before, and cook for 15 mins, until slightly charred and starting to soften. Turn over, baste again and cook for 10-15 mins more until tender and slightly charred.

COOK K SMART Use up any leftover butternut squash in our microwave risotto. Find the recipe at bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/ microwave-butternut-squash-risotto.

Shoot director BEN CURTIS | Food stylist AMY STEPHENSON | Stylist AGATHÉ GITS

SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 20-30 mins EASY V


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BBQ halloumi fajita skewers If your family loves fajitas, these will be a winner. Halloumi keeps them veggie, but you could use chicken, too. Cooking the cheese, peppers and onions on the barbecue imparts a smoky flavour. SERVES 4-6 PREP 20 mins COOK 20-25 mins EASY V

3 peppers (any colour), cut into wedges 2 large red onions, cut into wedges 2 x 250g blocks of halloumi, halved then cut into quarters 2 tbsp olive oil 2 ripe avocados, halved and stoned 1 large lime, juiced 8 soft tortilla wraps small bunch of coriander, leaves picked 120g soured cream chipotle chilli sauce, to serve (optional) For the spice mix 1 ½ tbsp smoked paprika 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp dried oregano ½ tsp garlic powder You’ll also need 4 metal skewers

1 Combine all the ingredients for the spice mix. Light the barbecue and wait until the coals are ashen. 2 Put the peppers, onions and halloumi in a bowl, drizzle with the oil, sprinkle over the spice mix and season with salt and pepper. Gently toss together to coat the veg and

28 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

cheese, being careful not to break up the halloumi. Thread the peppers, onions and cheese alternately onto the skewers. 3 Scoop the avocado flesh into a bowl along with the lime juice and a pinch of salt. Mash everything together with a fork and set aside until you’re ready to eat. 4 Cook the skewers on the barbecue for 5-8 mins on each side (this will depend on the heat of the barbecue). The peppers, onions and halloumi should be soft and charred in places. Meanwhile, warm the tortilla wraps on the barbecue, then wrap in a clean tea towel to keep warm. 5 Serve the skewers alongside the tortillas, smashed avocado, coriander and soured cream, and some chipotle chilli sauce, if you like, then let everyone dig in to assemble their own fajitas. GOOD TO KNOW calcium • folate • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (6) 654 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 20g • carbs 40g • sugars 12g • fibre 9g • protein 28g • salt 3.4g

RAIN OR SHINE If you want to cook the fajitas inside, do this in a griddle pan set over a medium-high heat. If the skewers won’t fit in the pan, just cook the ingredients individually, turning with tongs and keeping everything warm in a low oven if needed.

COOK SMART Mix any leftover soured cream with Dijon mustard, chopped capers, dill, parsley and lemon juice to make a punchy dressing for a potato salad.


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Barbecue beef burger The classic beef burger is a must-have at any barbecue. Pack a small piece of blue cheese in the centre to make it a little more special, and serve with your favourite accompaniments. MAKES 4 PREP 10 mins plus at least 30 mins chilling COOK 15 mins EASY

400g beef mince 1 banana shallot, finely chopped 1 tbsp strong horseradish sauce 1 tsp dried mixed herbs 1 large garlic clove, finely grated 40g blue cheese (optional) 2 tsp vegetable oil 4 burger buns, split iceberg lettuce leaves, tomato slices and relish, to serve

1 Tip the beef mince, shallot, horseradish sauce, herbs and garlic into a bowl, and season well with salt and black pepper. Combine everything well using your hands, squeezing the mixture through your fingers repeatedly to help it bind together. 2 Divide the mixture into four portions and shape each into a 3cm-thick patty. Press a small 50p-sized piece of blue cheese into the middle of each patty, if using,

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and pack the meat around it to enclose the cheese – this will melt during cooking. 3 Put the burgers on a plate, cover and chill for at least 30 mins or overnight. Light the barbecue and wait for the coals to turn ashen. Or, heat a gas barbecue to medium. 4 Lightly oil the burger patties all over and cook for 5 mins until just starting to char. Carefully flip over and cook for a further 4-5 mins (for medium) or longer if you prefer well done. Remove the burgers to a board and leave to rest for a few minutes before serving. Alternatively, fry the burgers over a medium heat for 4-5 mins on each side until cooked through (a probe thermometer should read 70C). 5 Serve the burgers in the buns with lettuce, tomato slices and relish (see recipe, right), or any other accompaniments of your choice. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 248 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 7g • carbs 1g • sugars 1g • fibre 0.3g • protein 20g • salt 0.3g

Barbecue burger relish MAKES 175g PREP 10 mins COOK 15-20 mins EASY V

Heat 1 tsp sunflower oil in a saucepan over a medium heat and cook 1 small red onion, finely chopped, for 5 mins until slightly softened. Add 200g roughly chopped tomatoes, 1 large garlic clove, finely grated, 1 tsp sweet smoked paprika, 1 tbsp tomato purée, 1 tbsp red wine vinegar and 1 finely chopped red chilli (optional). Season and simmer for 15-20 mins until the mixture has cooked down and thickened slightly. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • gluten free PER SERVING (1 tbsp) 9 kcals • fat 0.3g • saturates 0g • carbs 1g • sugars 1g • fibre 0.4g • protein 0.3g • salt 0.01g


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lime drizz d i lle cake SERVES 6 PREP 20 mins plus chilling COOK 12 mins MORE EFFORT V ACCESS ALL THIS AND SERV MORE ES 10

45 mins EASY SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK

the weather over the cooler months or cold when ‘This versatile salad can be served warm leave it – if it’s a spicy one you might want to paste harissa te favouri your Use is sunny. ith l Goldsm help balance the heat.’ Samue‘These delicious burgers are a vibrant addition to an al fresco dinner. Make sure you wear an PREP 20 mins out of the dressing so the yogurt can

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ENJOY SPECIAL OFFERS AND COMPETITIONS apron when grating the beetroot to protect your clothes from staining. ’ Samuel Goldsmith This season al twist on lemon drizzle

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midweek meals

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Enjoy these fresh, veg-packed recipes when the sun is shining. They’re great value at under £2 per serving recipes NADINE BROWN photographs MIKE ENGLISH

£1.71 per serving Turkey sausage & pesto soup, p38

Nadine Brown is a prolific recipe developer, writer and food editor with a focus on cooking for a healthy lifestyle. @n0sh.17

We strive to make all our midweek meals balanced or healthy. Learn more about our guidelines on page 144

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easy

75p per serving

Summer veg tostadas, p38

your shopping list FRUIT & VEGETABLES 2 onions 1 red onion 6 garlic cloves 100g kale leaves 1 courgette 80g cherry tomatoes 2 spring onions 2 mint sprigs 1 ½ lemons 2 handfuls of coriander 4 limes 35g piece of ginger 160g baby spinach 1 tbsp finely chopped dill

1 tbsp finely chopped parsley ½ red chilli STORECUPBOARD 3 tbsp vegetable oil 1 tbsp olive oil, plus 1 tsp 800ml vegetable stock 400g can cannellini beans 4 mini tortillas 198g can sweetcorn 60g green pesto 1 tbsp honey 2 x 250g pouches brown basmati rice

240g wholemeal spaghetti 2 x 110g cans tuna in olive oil 2 tbsp medium curry powder ½ tsp paprika 1 tsp ground turmeric 400g can black-eyed beans 400g can butter beans 1 tsp light brown soft sugar 10ml low-salt soy sauce 50g black olives

MEAT 6 turkey or chicken sausages FROZEN 250g frozen peas 300g frozen broccoli

DAIRY & CHILLED 160g natural yogurt 280g extra-firm tofu 3 eggs

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 37


BALANCED Turkey sausage & pesto soup SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 25 mins EASY

6 turkey or chicken sausages 1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling (optional) 1 onion, finely sliced 2 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced 800ml vegetable stock 400g can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 100g kale leaves, woody stems removed

HEALTHY Summer veg tostadas SERVES 2-4 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

4 mini tortillas 4 tsp vegetable oil 1 courgette, sliced lengthways, quartered then cut into 3cm chunks 198g can sweetcorn, drained ½ tsp smoked paprika 80g cherry tomatoes, halved 2 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced 250g frozen peas, defrosted 1 garlic clove, peeled 2 mint sprigs, leaves picked and roughly chopped, plus extra to serve

½ lemon, juiced 60g green pesto crusty bread, to serve (optional)

1 Squeeze the meat out of the sausage skins and break into small pieces. Discard the skins. Heat the oil in a wide saucepan over a medium-low heat. Once hot, add the sausagemeat and cook, squashing with a spatula, until browned and slightly crispy, about 6-7 mins. Remove from the pan, transfer to a bowl and cover. 2 Add the onion to the pan, with an extra splash of oil if the pan is looking dry, and cook for 4-5 mins until softened. Tip in the garlic and cook for 1 min. Pour in the stock,

small handful of coriander, roughly chopped 2 limes, 1 juiced, 1 cut into wedges to serve 80g natural yogurt

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Brush the tortillas with 2 tsp of the oil and arrange on two baking trays. Lightly season. Bake for 5 mins, then turn over, rotate the trays and cook for a further 3 mins until crisp and golden. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. 2 Meanwhile, heat 1 tsp of the oil in a large frying pan over a mediumhigh heat. Add the courgette and sweetcorn and cook, stirring a couple of times until they start to colour at the edges, about 6-8 mins. Add the smoked paprika and cook

reader offer Save on a versatile Cooks Professional sauté pan Designed for family meals and one-pot cooking, this large-capacity non-stick pan is a great addition to your kitchen cookware. It has a generous 4.5-litre capacity and the non-stick ceramic interior won’t blister or peel. Easy to clean and also dishwasher-safe, the pan is suitable for use in the oven and on all hob types, including electric, gas, ceramic, glass, halogen and induction. Product code: G3585. HOW TO ORDER Visit cooksprofessional. co.uk, search for ‘sauté pan’ and use the code GF222 at the checkout. Offer ends 31 July 2022.

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scraping to loosen any stuck-on bits at the bottom. Add the sausage back in along with the beans and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for another 10 mins, stir in the kale in two batches and cook for a further 2-3 mins until slightly wilted. Stir in the lemon juice and season lightly with salt and a good amount of black pepper. 3 Remove the soup from the heat, divide between bowls and top with a spoonful of the pesto. Drizzle over some oil and serve with crusty bread, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW balanced • low cal • fibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 324 kcals • fat 16g • saturates 3g • carbs 21g • sugars 7g • fibre 7g • protein 21g • salt 1.7g

for a further minute. Set aside to cool slightly before tossing in the tomatoes and spring onions, then some seasoning to taste. 3 Put the peas, garlic, mint, most of the coriander, the lime juice and remaining oil in a mini food processor with some seasoning and pulse until you have a guacamole-like consistency. Add a splash of water if it’s too thick. 4 To serve, spread each tortilla with the pea dip and top with the veg. Garnish with the remaining coriander and a dollop of yogurt. Serve with lime wedges on the side for squeezing over. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • fibre • vit c • iron • omega-3 • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING (4) 265 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 2g • carbs 36g • sugars 10g • fibre 7g • protein 10g • salt 0.6g

JUST

£39.99 (RRP £44.99) inc p&p


easy

£1.91 per serving

BALANCED Tofu omelettes with soy dressing SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus 20 mins marinating COOK 25 mins EASY V

100ml low-salt soy sauce 1 lime, juiced 4 garlic cloves 280g extra-firm tofu, drained 300g frozen broccoli 5g piece of ginger, peeled ½ red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped 1 tbsp honey 3 eggs 2 tsp vegetable oil 2 x 250g pouches brown basmati rice

1 Put 50ml of the soy sauce and half the lime juice in a shallow dish.

Crush in 2 garlic cloves. Slice the tofu into four equal squares and add to the marinade. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 20 mins, turning halfway through. 2 Meanwhile, fill a medium saucepan a quarter full with water, then put on a medium heat until it starts to simmer. Sit a colander over the pan, add the broccoli, cover and steam for 10 mins, or until tender. Meanwhile, grate the remaining garlic and the ginger into a small bowl. Stir in the remaining soy sauce and lime juice, the red chilli and honey. Set aside. 3 Drain the tofu and thoroughly pat dry. Whisk the eggs in a bowl with a pinch of salt. 4 Heat 1/2 tsp oil in a frying pan over a medium-high heat. Once hot, add a piece of the tofu to the pan and

pour a quarter of the egg over it. Use a fish slice to push the egg towards the tofu – you should end up with a little eggy tofu square. Cook for 2-3 mins on each side until golden, carefully turning. Set aside, cover to keep warm and repeat with the remaining oil, tofu and egg. 5 Cook the rice following pack instructions. Serve the tofu omelettes with the rice, broccoli and a drizzle of the chilli dressing. GOOD TO KNOW balanced • low cal • calcium • fibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 387 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 3g • carbs 39g • sugars 7g • fibre 8g • protein 23g • salt 1.6g

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 39


BALANCED Tuna, olive & spinach spaghetti SERVES 4 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY

240g wholemeal spaghetti 1 tsp olive oil 1 red onion, thinly sliced 2 x 110g cans tuna in olive oil, drained 50g black olives, sliced 1 lemon, zested and juiced 160g baby spinach 1 tbsp chopped dill 1 tbsp chopped parsley

1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil. Add the spaghetti, lower the heat to medium and cook for 10 mins until al dente.

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2 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large, lidded frying pan over a medium heat. Cook the onion until softened, about 5-6 mins, and flake in the tuna, adding the olives, lemon zest, juice and spinach. Stir together and cover, then leave to cook for 3 mins. Turn off the heat, leaving it covered for 5 mins, until the spinach has wilted. 3 Drain the pasta, reserving 150ml of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the tuna mixture and toss together, adding a good splash of the reserved water. Add most of the herbs, toss together and season with black pepper. Divide between bowls, and top with the remaining herbs. GOOD TO KNOW balanced • low cal • fibre • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 329 kcals • fat 8g • saturates 1g • carbs 41g • sugars 2g • fibre 8g • protein 18g • salt 0.7g

Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist FAYE WEARS

96p per serving


easy

HEALTHY Sweet & sour bean curry SERVES 2-4 PREP 10 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

1 small onion, roughly chopped 30g ginger, peeled and roughly chopped 1 tbsp vegetable oil 2 tbsp medium curry powder (check it’s gluten-free if necessary) 1 tsp ground turmeric 400g can black-eyed beans, drained and rinsed 400g can butter beans (not drained) 1 lime, juiced 1 tsp light brown soft sugar handful of coriander, roughly chopped 80g natural yogurt cooked rice or naan, to serve

1 Put the onion and ginger in a mini food proessor or blender with 30ml water and blitz to a smooth paste. 2 Heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium-high heat. Add the onion mixture and cook for 5 mins until golden. Stir in the spices and cook for a further minute. 3 Add the black-eyed beans and the butter beans along with the liquid from the can, plus another 50ml water, stirring to combine. Lower the heat, partially cover and cook for 15-20 mins, stirring occasionally until the beans are tender.

4 Stir in the lime juice and sugar, then season to taste. Stir in most of the coriander, then serve in bowls, topped with the remaining coriander, a spoonful of yogurt and with rice or naan on the side. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low fat • low cal • folate • fibre • iron • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING (4) 199 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 24g • sugars 5g • fibre 8g • protein 11g • salt 0.1g

67p per serving

Cut down on meal costs with the BBC Good Food cooking app

With over 15,000+ recipes to choose from, make affordable dinners for the whole family with our budget-friendly recipe ideas.

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 41


easy

reduce waste

love your leftovers Make your midweek meals go further with these recipes, and freeze surplus ingredients using our Cook Smart guide on page 66

Turkey minestrone Stretch out any leftover turkey soup from p38 and use up any leftover wholewheat spaghetti from the shopping list. Simply add more veg stock to the soup base and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, break about 50g spaghetti into small pieces, then cook it in the soup until tender and serve with leftover pesto.

Baked tortilla chips Turn any leftover mini tortillas from the tostadas recipe (p38) into tortilla chips. Brush both sides with sunflower or vegetable oil, then cut into triangles with kitchen scissors. Arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake for 7-8 mins at 200C/180C fan/gas 6 until crisp, then sprinkle with salt and chilli powder, if you like. Leave to cool. Will keep in an airtight container for up to three days.

Spiced bean hummus Turn any leftover bean curry (p41) into an easy dip or spread by simply whizzing it in a food processor with enough olive oil to loosen it and more lime juice. This would work well with the tortilla chips (above).

Tuna niçoise pasta salad Any leftover tuna spaghetti (p40) can be bulked out into a brilliant lunchbox salad. Simply toss some halved cherry tomatoes and cooked green or runner beans through the leftovers, dress with a splash more olive oil and some lemon juice, and pack in a reusable plastic container ready to take to work or school.

Make more of mint You’ll be left with about half a bunch of mint from the tostadas on page 38. Here’s some inspiration for using it up. Fresh mint tea Reserve a few mint leaves before tipping the rest, with the stalks, into a teapot or heatproof jug. Pour over about 600ml kettle-hot water, then leave for 5 mins until it starts to take on a pale yellow-green tinge.

Strain into cups, sweeten with honey, if you like, and drop in the reserved mint leaves. Cold or hot pea & mint soup Tip a handful of frozen peas into a blender and pour over hot water from the kettle to cover. Add a a few mint leaves and 1 tsp vegetable bouillon powder. Blitz until smooth, then serve hot, or cold with ice cubes.

Minted tomato salad Make a side salad of cherry tomatoes, mint and spring onions. Simply quarter and season the tomatoes, shred the mint and finely slice the spring onions. To serve, scatter the tomatoes over a plate, drizzle with olive oil then scatter over the spring onions and mint.

GOOD FOOD & SUSTAINABILITY At BBC Good Food, we seek realistic solutions to avoid food waste and packaging, and adhere to the three Rs: 1) Reducing food waste 2) Recycling packaging 3) Reusing food storage packaging and containers. To find out more, go to bbcgoodfood.com/reduce-reuse-recycle. Plus, listen to the Food Programme’s inspiring Food Waste Pioneers broadcast about people who tackle food waste issues on BBC Radio 4.

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A third of every bottle is pure rhubarb juice. No fake factory flavours here. We throttle tonnes and tonnes of real, farm-grown rhubarb - born and bred in the British countryside - until we have enough juice for every bottle.

Real gin has the countryside in. warnersdistillery.com


easy

chef

Jeremy Pang’s seafood starter

The chef and founder of School of Wok shares a Chinese classic I once spent a day in Hong Kong watching six chefs from around the world battle it out to win the Young Chinese Chef of the Year award. The speed with which one of the chefs butterflied, deveined and cleaned his prawns with just one swift movement of his cleaver left my mouth wide open. The dish he made, however, is simple. Give it a try!

Salt & Sichuan pepper prawns SERVES 2 PREP 20 mins COOK 11 mins EASY

300g tiger prawns, shells and heads left on 2 tbsp cornflour vegetable oil, for frying 6-8 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 /2 thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped 1 large red chilli, finely chopped 1-2 spring onions, finely chopped For the spice mix 1 tbsp Sichuan peppercorns 1 /2 tsp white pepper

1 Butterfly the prawns by cutting down the backs through the shells, then opening them out. Stop slicing just before the tail to keep the prawns intact. Scrape out the black seam, then wash the prawns well in cold water. Score horizontally across each prawn 4-5 times, then dust with the cornflour. 2 For the spice mix, toast the peppercorns in a dry frying pan

over a medium heat, stirring for 1-2 mins until popping and fragrant. Add 1 tsp salt, then transfer to a pestle and mortar or spice grinder, add the white pepper and a pinch of sugar, and grind to a powder. 3 Heat 2-3 tbsp oil in a frying pan over a high heat. Put the prawns flesh-side down in the pan and fry for 3-4 mins until they start to turn pink. Turn and cook until pink all over, then remove from the pan. 4 Heat another 1-2 tbsp oil in the wok over a medium heat. Add the garlic, stirring until it starts to brown, about 30 seconds. Add the ginger, chilli and spring onions, then add the spice mix followed immediately by the prawns. Toss everything throughly five or six times to coat the prawns, then serve. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING (2) 313 kcals • fat 22g • saturates 2g • carbs 16g • sugars 1g • fibre 2g • protein 10g • salt 3.3g

Jeremy Pang features in the BBC Good Food Rookie Chef Podcast. Find this and more at bbcgoodfood.com/bbc-goodfood-rookie-chef-podcast

TV & RADIO PICKS The Food Programme A special edition recorded in Devon in which Michelin-starred chef Michael Caines talks to presenter Dan Saladino about his life story through food, his connections with Devon and its producers. Listen on Radio 4 on Sunday, 10 July, or catch up on BBC Sounds.

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Recipe adapted from Jeremy Pang’s School of Wok: Delicious Asian Food In Minutes (£20, Hamlyn). Photographs by Kris Kirkham. This recipe is supplied by the publisher and not retested by us.

by DAVID CRAWFORD Deputy listings editor for Radio Times

A Fishy Phobia Chef Angela Hartnett has a question: Why are we so reluctant to eat fish that isn’t covered in batter and accompanied by chips and mushy peas? Angela heads to the fishing port of Leigh-on-Sea to investigate. Listen on Radio 4 on Tuesday, 19 July, or catch up on BBC Sounds.

Hungry for It Hosted by Stacey Dooley, this series gives aspiring cooks from all over the UK a chance to put their talent to the test. In a restaurant and street-food pop-up, they’ll create dishes to impress industry experts and mentors. Watch on Tuesdays on BBC Three, or catch up on BBC iPlayer.


Crammed with countryside flavour from fresh botanicals, and rescued citrus peel. We rescue citrus peel to give our London Dry the bright burst of flavour that 9 out of 10 of you legends love*.

Real gin has the countryside in. warnersdistillery.com *88.9% of 588 respondents said they preferred Warner’s London Dry recipe to their regular gin in our taste test research conducted between 26.04.21 and 07.05.21. The other 11.1% are probably no fun at parties anyway.


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Discover Floridaís

family foodie getaways

Thereís a wealth of sun-soaked dining activities for your family to enjoy in Florida, plus seafood experiences, fresh produce and food festivals

T

he Sunshine State mixes theme parks and beaches with wild dining experiences, pick-your-own farm fun and enticing food festivals for the perfect gourmet getaway the whole family will love.

SEAFOOD EXPERIENCES After a day in the sunshine and watersports at the beach, sit back and relax over seafood platters and fresh fish grills at Florida’s finest waterfront dining spots. Try local snapper and crab cakes at laidback South Walton restaurant Bud & Alley’s, then after dinner, discover some wildlife on a relaxing nature trail, or walk along the sandy beach and dip your toes into the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Mexico. Another day could see you spot alligators, turtles and peacocks on an airboat tour of the Everglades, before tucking into fresh stone crabs, baskets of prawns and frog’s legs on riverside picnic tables outside City Seafood in Everglades City, or downstream at Triad Seafood Market & Café. Down in the Florida Keys, you can taste local delicacies such as conch fritters and key lime pie, while soaking up live music on the beach at Alabama Jack’s in Key Largo.


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WILD ACTIVITIES During the summer months, you can cycle and dip into the natural springs around Crystal River, as well as kayak and even snorkel to find scallops in the stunning shallow waters (where you can also swim with manatees in the winter), then enjoy your catch grilled on the campfire or at a local restaurant. Alternatively, take a fishing trip or boat tour on one of the Harris Chain of Lakes, northwest of Orlando, or drive around the area’s open farms to make the most of the abundant fresh produce that thrives in the Florida sun. In spring, you can pick your own blueberries on Atwood Family Farm in Eustis, which also hosts fun farm activities and street food trucks most weekends. Or make your way down to Scott’s Country Market in Mount Dora to pick up fresh produce – in autumn, the kids can also run around in the adjoining corn maze. FUN FOOD FESTIVALS Floridians know how to make the most of the weather with a multitude of outdoor festivals – many dedicated to individual ingredients, including crawfish, stone crab, peanuts, and winter strawberries. You can reap the rewards of Florida’s strawberry-growing region at the Florida Strawberry Festival in Plant City, for example, or take part in the Florida Seafood Festival at the mouth of the Apalachicola River. It’s the longest-running festival in the state, where thousands congregate to enjoy blue crab races, oyster-shucking contests and southern-style seafood dishes. And you won’t want to miss Tampa’s International Cuban Sandwich Festival to see which offering the judges crown the winner.

LIGHT UP YOUR HOLIDAY In Universal Orlando Resort, you can watch an impressive firework display from the rooftop of the Aventura Hotel. Adults can enjoy a drink at the Sapphire Falls rum bar next door, and kids will love the monster shakes at Toothsome Chocolate Emporium at Universal CityWalk. Close by in Kissimmee, you can rent a holiday villa to get the full American experience and shop for and cook your own food, or hire private chefs for s’mores parties and dinners showcasing Florida ingredients. You should head downtown too, where you’ll find a wide variety of independent restaurants that serve everything from New York-style pizza and Jamaican dishes, to Puerto Rican fare.

Ready to start planning your holiday? Go to visitflorida.com/eat-and-drink to find out more



family

summer fête sweets Create an irresistible display of cakes and biscuits using our recipes, including vegan and gluten-free treats that everyone can enjoy recipes CASSIE BEST photographs WILL HEAP

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 49


Jam jar trifles If you’re not much of a baker or just short on time, this recipe could save the day. It’s essentially an assembly of shop-bought ingredients, but you can make the sponge yourself if you like. Cut an extra corner and buy ready-made icing – either way, the results look pretty and taste great. MAKES 6 PREP 30 mins NO COOK EASY V

1 tbsp custard powder 500g icing sugar 250g butter, softened 1 tsp vanilla extract 1-2 tbsp milk 500g strawberries 2 tbsp elderflower cordial 300g shop-bought madeira sponge You’ll also need 6 x 400ml jam jars

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1 Beat the custard powder, icing sugar, butter, vanilla and 1 tbsp milk together in a stand mixer until smooth and creamy, or do this in a large bowl using an electric whisk. Add a little more milk to loosen, if needed. Transfer the icing to a piping bag fitted with a large star-shaped nozzle and set aside. 2 Choose three of the best-looking strawberries, then halve and set aside for decorating later (or you can use six whole strawberries). Halve, hull and chop the rest of the berries, then mix with the cordial. 3 Cut the madeira sponge into roughly 2cm cubes. Arrange a layer of sponge pieces in the bottom of each jam jar, then top with a generous spoonful of the chopped strawberries, including any juice. Pipe a swirl of the custard icing on top, then repeat the layers again,

finishing each jar with a strawberry half. Will keep chilled for up to a day. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 882 kcals • fat 42g • saturates 26g • carbs 119g • sugars 106g • fibre 3g • protein 4g • salt 1.3g


easy

Gluten-free lemon shortbreads Bring some zest to the occasion with this crowd-pleasing shortbread. You could also try using lime or orange zest in place of the lemon. MAKES 16 PREP 20 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V ❄ unbaked dough

300g gluten-free plain flour 200g cold butter 200g icing sugar 2 lemons, zested, plus 2 tbsp lemon juice 150g lemon curd

1 Line a 20 x 20cm cake tin with baking parchment. Blitz the flour, butter, half the icing sugar and the lemon zest together in a food processor until the mixture looks sandy. Add half the lemon juice and blitz again until the dough starts to clump together. At this stage, the dough will keep wrapped and frozen for up to two months. Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/gas 3. 2 Press half the dough into the base of the tin using your fingertips, ensuring it’s in an even layer. Spread the curd over the dough, leaving a 1 /2cm border of around the edge. 3 Roll the remaining dough into cherry-tomato-sized balls, then

press these into flat discs using your fingers. Arrange the dough discs over the layer of curd in a random patchwork pattern until completely covered. Bake for 35 mins until the shortbread is pale and lightly golden at the edges. Leave to cool completely in the tin. 4 Mix the remaining icing sugar with enough of the remaining lemon juice to make a pourable icing. Drizzle this over the cooled shortbread and leave to set, then cut into 16 squares. Will keep in an airtight container for three days. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 231 kcals • fat 11g • saturates 7g • carbs 32g • sugars 17g • fibre 0.2g • protein 1g • salt 0.3g

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Vegan cookies & cream cake Make this bake for any children or adults with allergies or intolerances, or those following a dairy-free diet. SERVES 16 PREP 30 mins COOK 35 mins EASY V ❄ un-iced

150ml sunflower oil, plus extra for the tin 200ml dairy-free milk (we used oat milk) 1 ½ tsp white wine vinegar 1 tsp vanilla extract 120g dairy-free yogurt (we used coconut yogurt) 225g light brown soft sugar 200g self-raising flour 70g cocoa powder 1 tsp baking powder ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda

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For the icing and decoration 150g crème-filled chocolate sandwich cookies 150g vegan spread 1 tsp vanilla extract 275g icing sugar

1 Oil a 20 x 20cm baking tin and line the base and sides with baking parchment. Heat the oven to 180C/ 160C fan/gas 4. Combine the oil, milk, vinegar, vanilla and yogurt in a jug. Mix the sugar, flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, bicarb and a pinch of salt together in a bowl. 2 Pour the wet ingredients into the dry and mix until there are no pockets of flour remaining. Tip the mixture into prepared tin and level the surface with a spatula. Bake for 35 mins, or until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out

clean. If any wet cake mixture clings to the skewer, return the cake to the oven for another 5 mins, then check again. Remove from the oven and leave to cool completely in the tin. 3 Set half of the cookies aside for decorating later. Bash the rest with the end of a rolling pin or blitz in a food processor to chunky rubble. Beat the spread, vanilla and icing sugar together using an electric whisk until fluffy, then gently fold in the crushed cookies until combined. 4 Put the cake on a board. Spread over the icing. Halve or crumble the rest of the cookies and use these to decorate. Cut into squares. Will keep in an airtight container for four days. GOOD TO KNOW vegan PER SERVING 391 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 7g • carbs 49g • sugars 35g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.5g


easy

Fairy wand biscuits MAKES 12-15 PREP 40 mins plus chilling and setting COOK 15 mins EASY V ❄ unbaked dough

Shoot director EMMA WINCHESTER | Food stylist ROSIE REYNOLDS | Stylist LAUREN MILLER

175g softened butter, plus extra for the tin 100g golden caster sugar 250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 1 egg yolk (freeze the white for another recipe) ½ tsp vanilla extract 250g icing sugar sprinkles of your choice, to decorate You’ll also need star-shaped biscuit cutter 12-15 cake pop or lolly sticks coloured ribbons (optional)

1 Tip the butter, caster sugar and flour into a food processor with a pinch of salt. Blitz until the mixture looks sandy. Add the egg yolk, vanilla extract and 1 tbsp cold water, and blitz again until the dough clumps together. Tip onto a surface and knead briefly until all the flour is incorporated. Shape into a disc, wrap and chill for 30 mins, or up to two days. Will keep frozen for two months. If chilled for longer than 1 hr, leave at room temperature for 10 mins before rolling out. 2 Line two baking trays with baking parchment. Heat the oven to 180C/ 160C fan/gas 4. Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface until it’s a little thicker than a £1 coin. Stamp out stars using the cutter, then carefully lift onto the baking trays and gently push a lolly stick into the base of each. Bake for 12-15 mins until golden at the edges (you may need to do this in batches). Cool on the trays for 5 mins, then transfer to a wire rack to cool fully. 3 Combine the icing sugar with 2-3 tsp water to make a thick icing. Spread this over the biscuits, then scatter with sprinkles. Leave to set for 1 hr, then tie ribbons around the wands, if you like. Best eaten within 24 hrs, but will keep in an airtight container for three days. PER SERVING (15) 254 kcals • fat 10g • saturates 6g • carbs 38g • sugars 25g • fibre 1g • protein 2g • salt 0.2g

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Watermelon sugar cookies Brighten up summer with these colourful cookies. They look impressive, but you only need a few ingredients to make them. MAKES 40 PREP 25 mins plus at least 2 hrs chilling and setting COOK 15 mins MORE EFFORT V ❄ unbaked dough

175g cold butter 100g golden caster sugar 250g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 1 egg yolk (freeze the white for another recipe) ½ tsp vanilla extract red and green food colouring gels black edible icing pen

1 Tip the butter, caster sugar and flour into a food processor with a pinch of salt and blitz until the mixture looks sandy. Add the egg yolk, vanilla and 1 tbsp cold water, and blitz again until the dough starts to clump together. 2 Remove half of the dough from the food processor and set aside. Add a

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few drops of red food colouring to the dough still in the food processor and blitz until it’s bright red. Halve the reserved plain dough, then add a few drops of green food colouring to one piece, kneading it until it is evenly coloured. 3 Roll the red biscuit dough into a long sausage shape on a lightly floured surface – it should be about 20cm long. Roll the plain dough out on a lightly floured surface into a 20 x 10cm rectangle. Repeat with the green dough, rolling it out to the same size. Roll the plain dough around the red dough, bringing the ends together and trimming any excess. Repeat with the green dough, rolling it around the plain layer. Wrap the sausage of dough tightly and chill for at least 2 hrs. Will keep wrapped and frozen for up to two months. 4 Heat the oven 180C/160C fan/ gas 4 and line two baking trays with baking parchment. Unwrap the dough sausage, then use a sharp knife to cut it into rounds about 1cm thick. Arrange these on the prepared trays, then cut each round in half to make the watermelon

wedges. You should have about 40 in total. Bake for 12-15 mins, swapping the trays over halfway through cooking if needed. Leave to cool completely on the trays. 5 Once cooled, pipe small dots over the red ‘watermelon flesh’ using the black icing pen to look like seeds. Leave to set for 30 mins before serving or packing into bags. Will keep in an airtight container for up to three days. PER SERVING 67 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 2g • carbs 7g • sugars 3g • fibre 0.2g • protein 1g • salt 0.1g



Discover that Island feeling An Island holiday is closer than you think. Escape close to home in a place that feels worlds away. #ThatIslandFeeling *Please check our latest travel guidance before booking.

visitguernsey.com


K DS ’ K TCHEN SKILLS FOR LIFE

In this series, we’ll guide you and your children through six essential cooking skills, so they can build their knowledge and confidence. This month, learn to boil recipes CASSIE BEST photographs WILL HEAP

HOW TO USE OUR GUIDE These recipes are suitable for children aged seven to 11, but younger children can also get involved with support from an adult. Older children and teenagers can also enjoy making these recipes, and may want to adapt or further develop them, swapping in their favourite ingredients or adding extra spices to make them their own. The step-by-step recipes come with clear lists of ingredients and equipment so they’re easy to follow, and there are

Part 3

three to support each new skill: a basic recipe, one that’s more of a challenge and another for advanced mini chefs. Talk through and practice the cooking skill with your child before making the dishes. Follow this collection of monthly recipes as you would a cookery course, making each recipe with your child to help develop their skills and confidence. Send us pictures of what you’ve been cooking at goodfood@immediate.co.uk or tag us using #GFKidsKitchen.

CALLING ALL YOUNG COOKS! Want to showcase your kids’ skills? BBC Good Food has partnered with First News, the award-winning weekly newspaper for children, to share what young, budding chefs are cooking. Each month, First News will celebrate a different cuisine from around the world, and they would love to see what your children create using their new Kids’ Kitchen skills. For more details, go to: firstnews.co.uk/globalkitchen

Boiling This is a key method used for cooking pasta, rice, stews, sauces and countless other foods and recipes. It’s important to learn how to boil food safely, as accidents can easily happen when you’re working with hot liquids. It’s also one of the simplest and oldest cooking methods, since all you need is a pot and heat source, be it a gas or electric hob or even a campfire.  Make sure your pot or pan is large enough for the recipe or food you’re cooking. Never fill a pot more than three-quarters full, as it may boil over. Your saucepan should

have a long, heat-resistant handle that you can hold to steady the pot while you stir. Large flameproof casserole dishes are usually heavy, so you don’t need a handle to keep them from moving as you stir.  Read the recipe through before you start cooking to check if you’ll need a lid for your pot or pan and if it will need to go in the oven. Find a long wooden spoon, whisk or spatula for stirring.

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 57


BASIC SKILL

Safety first

Greek-style pasta salad

The safest way to bring a pan of water to the boil is to fill the pan with cold water, then set it on the hob over a high heat. To speed up the process and save energy, you can fill the pan with hot water from the kettle. Once the liquid is boiling, reduce the heat to maintain a steady boil (sometimes called a ‘rolling boil’) and monitor the pan at all times. When stirring liquid in a saucepan, hold the handle to keep the pan steady. Use a small cloth to hold the handle if the heat from the hob is too intense, but make sure it doesn’t hang down near the naked flame. When stirring the liquid, keep your hands and wrists away from the edge of the pan, which will be extremely hot. Stir in a slow motion to prevent splashes. If you need to drain the liquid (when cooking pasta or vegetables, for example), make sure the colander is ready in the sink and your pathway to the sink is clear. Hold the pan with a cloth in two hands and carefully pour the contents away from your body into the colander.

Holiday at home If you’re off to Greece this year, you’ll be able to order a salad much like this one (minus the pasta). But, even at home, you can create a holiday mood through what you cook. Try the ideas below and search for the recipes at bbcgoodfood.com. Paella from Spain Steak haché with pommes frites from France Spaghetti carbonara from Italy

58 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

200g pasta bows, or another shape 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp red wine vinegar 1 tsp dried oregano 16-20 cherry tomatoes 75g pitted olives (green or black both work well) ½ small cucumber 1 red onion 100g feta (check it’s vegetarian, if needed)

You’ll also need medium saucepan kettle (optional) scales wooden spoon measuring spoons mixing bowl mixing spoon colander chopping board sharp knife

>>> Use the method opposite

GOOD TO KNOW 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 363 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 5g • carbs 40g • sugars 5g • fibre 5g • protein 11g • salt 1.3g


1

3 5

Step 1

Step 2

Boil the kettle and fill a medium saucepan with hot water until it’s three-quarters full. Put the pan on the hob. Season the water with a pinch of salt. Turn the heat to medium-high, and the water should start to boil after a minute or so. Tip the pasta into the boiling water, being careful not to splash, which could burn your skin.

Hold the handle of the saucepan with one hand and carefully stir the pasta with a long wooden spoon using your other hand to prevent it from sticking. Set your timer for 10 mins. Stir the pasta every minute or so, and keep checking to make sure the water is gently boiling as the timer counts down.

Step 3

Step 4

While the pasta cooks, measure 3 tbsp olive oil, 1 tbsp red wine vinegar and 1 tsp dried oregano into a mixing bowl. Season with some salt and black pepper, and mix well – this will make a zingy dressing for the pasta.

When your timer beeps, it’s time to check if the pasta is cooked. Scoop a piece of pasta out of the boiling water using your wooden spoon, tip it onto a plate and leave to cool for 30 seconds. Try the pasta: if it’s soft, it’s cooked; if it’s a little hard in the middle, it needs to cook a bit longer. Set your timer for 2 mins more, then check again.

Step 5

Step 6

Put a large colander or sieve in the sink. When the pasta is cooked, turn off the heat and, using both hands, carefully carry the saucepan to the sink and tip the pasta into the colander to drain away the water. Leave to cool and drain for a few minutes, then tip the pasta into the mixing bowl with the dressing. Mix the pasta through the dressing.

Put a chopping board on your work surface. Cut the tomatoes in half by pinching one between your thumb and finger and carefully slicing through the middle with a small serrated knife. Slice the olives in the same way. Add the tomatoes and olives to the pasta.

7

WATCH OUR SKILLS VIDEO Watch food director Cassie making our Greek-style pasta salad at bbcgoodfood.com/ kidskitchen or scan the QR code

K DS ’ K TCHEN

Step 7

Step 8

Place the cucumber on the chopping board and cut it in half lengthways. Place the two pieces flat on the board so they don’t roll around, then cut each piece in half again, so you have four long, chunky pieces. Cut across the pieces the other way to make little triangles. Tip into the mixing bowl.

Hold the onion on your board and cut off the pointy end. Cut it in half through the root. Peel away the outer layers, then lay each half flat on the board. Holding the root end, slice the onion into thin half-moon shapes up to the root. Tip the onions into the bowl.

2 4

6

8

Step 9 Crumble the feta into small pieces into the mixing bowl. Carefully mix the ingredients together until they’re well combined. Will keep chilled for up to a day.

9 JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com bbcgoodfood.co 59


THE NEXT LEVEL

Easy salmon sushi rice bowl We’ve topped this simple sushi bowl with salmon, but you could use prawns, tuna or cooked chicken instead, if you like. SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

150g sushi rice pinch of caster sugar 1 tbsp rice vinegar 120g frozen edamame beans 1 large carrot handful of radishes ¼ cucumber 2 cooked skinless salmon fillets 1-2 tbsp low-salt soy sauce 1 tsp toasted sesame seeds few pieces of sushi ginger (optional) You’ll also need scales medium saucepan with a lid measuring jug measuring spoons wooden spoon small saucepan vegetable peeler chopping board sharp knife

1 Tip the sushi rice into a medium saucepan, cover with 200ml water and add a pinch of salt. Put the pan on the hob and turn the heat to high. Wait for the water to boil, then reduce the heat to very low, cover the pan with a lid and leave to gently cook for 15 mins. 2 After 15 mins turn off the heat, fluff up the rice with a fork, then return the lid to the pan and leave for another 5 mins – the rice will continue to cook. After 5 mins, check the rice is cooked – it should have absorbed all the water and be soft, but not mushy. Stir the sugar and vinegar through the rice, cover with the lid again and keep warm while you prepare the other ingredients. 3 Fill a small pan halfway with water, put it on the hob and bring the water to a gentle boil. Add the edamame beans, cook for 3 mins, then drain.

60 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

Know your rice 4 Peel the carrot and discard the outer skin, then keep peeling to create lots of carrot ribbons. 5 Thinly slice the radishes. Cut the cucumber into batons, then thinly slice them lengthways. 6 With your hands, break the salmon into small pieces. Be sure to look out for any bones and throw these away. 7 Divide the warm rice between two bowls and arrange the other ingredients on top, then top with the soy sauce and sesame seeds, and add a few pieces of sushi ginger, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • fibre • omega-3 • folate • 2 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 713 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 5g • carbs 73g • sugars 10g • fibre 7g • protein 41g • salt 1.2g

There are hundreds of varieties of rice in the world, each with their own shape, size, flavour and texture. These are some of the most widely used varieties in the UK:

Sushi rice

Brown rice

This is made using Japanese short-grain rice, often called sushi rice. It’s a particularly sticky variety, making it perfect for forming the little shapes used to make sushi.

Having a firmer texture than white rice, brown takes longer to cook. It can be soaked before cooking to speed up the process. The end result has a nuttier flavour, too.

Basmati rice

As a short-grain rice, this produces a starchy substance when cooked, and this is what makes risotto creamy. It can also be used to make rice pudding.

The grains are long, thin and aromatic. Each grain should be individual and not stuck together when cooked. You’ve probably tried basmati rice served with a curry.

Risotto rice


K DS ’ K TCHEN

CHALLENGE YOURSELF

Golden noodle soup with soft-boiled eggs Learn how to cook noodles and boil an egg using this noodle soup recipe. Add a little sliced chilli if you like a kick of heat.

4 medium eggs 400g egg noodles 2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 large garlic cloves 1 tbsp ginger purée 2 tsp ground turmeric 400ml stock, made with 1 low-salt chicken stock cube or 1 tbsp low-salt concentrated liquid stock 2 x 400g cans reduced-fat coconut milk 3 tbsp light soy sauce 1 tbsp light brown soft sugar 150g sugar snap peas small bunch of spring onions small handful of coriander leaves You’ll also need small saucepan slotted spoon medium saucepan with a lid colander measuring spoons garlic crusher wooden spoon measuring jug can opener chopping board sharp knife

KATIE MARSHALL, LIBBY SILBERMANN | Stylist FAYE WEARS

Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Photographer WILL HEAP | Food stylists KATY MCCLELLAND,

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 15 mins EASY

1 Bring a small saucepan of water to the boil and carefully lower in the eggs using a slotted spoon. Set a timer for 7 mins if you like your eggs jammy in the middle, or 8 mins for a more set yolk. Have a bowl of cold water ready. When the timer beeps, scoop the eggs from the hot water using a slotted spoon and plunge into the cold water. Leave to cool. 2 Fill a medium saucepan with enough water to come halfway up the side of the pan. Bring the water to boil over a high heat, reduce the heat, then lower in the noodle nests and season the water with a pinch of salt.

Cook for 5 mins, or until just cooked – test one noodle to see if it’s done, allowing it to cool a little first. Drain the noodles and drizzle with 1 tbsp oil while they’re still in the colander, then toss to prevent the noodles from sticking together. 3 Peel the garlic cloves, then crush to a paste using a garlic crusher. 4 Pour the remaining 1 tbsp oil into the saucepan (no need to wash it first) and turn the hob to a medium heat. Add the garlic and ginger, stirring for a minute until sizzling, then add the turmeric and stir for another 30 seconds. 5 Pour in the stock, coconut milk, soy sauce and sugar. Bring to a gentle simmer, then allow to bubble for 2 mins. 6 Cut the sugar snap peas in half on an angle, then drop them into the hot soup and cook for 1 min. Thinly slice the spring onions.

7 Divide the noodles between four shallow bowls (pasta bowls are perfect). Use a ladle to spoon over the hot soup and sugar snap peas. Carefully peel the eggs, then NEXT cut them in half MONTH and add two halves learn to to each bowl, fry safely before scattering with the spring onions and coriander. GOOD TO KNOW iron • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 714 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 15g • carbs 83g • sugars 11g • fibre 7g • protein 26g • salt 2.6g

Don’t waste it

Did you know crushed eggshells help keep slugs and snails away from your homegrown veg and flowers? Scatter the shells around the base of the plants to keep the little beasties at bay.

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 61


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easy

good advice

family matters Food director and mum of two Cassie Best reveals clever ways to liven up your lunchbox and ideas for wholesome treats

Healthy oat, banana & raspberry cookies

LUNCHBOX TIPS

12 o’clock rocks

MAKES 12 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V ❄

Give your family lunchboxes a makeover with these hacks. l KEEP COOL Take the frozen drink trick to the next level by adding berries, slices of citrus fruit or mint leaves. Fill your bottle halfway up with water, then freeze on its side. The next day, fill the space left in the bottle and add your choice of natural flavourings. As well as having a refreshing drink, it’ll keep your lunch cold. l NO MORE SOGGY SANDWICHES Try lightly toasting your bread before making sandwiches. This will make them more robust to better hold up against a moist filling, like tuna or egg mayo. l MAKE IT FUN We all eat with our eyes, so make your lunchboxes as visually exciting as you can. Use cookie cutters to stamp out shapes from peppers or cheese, or invest in a crinkle knife for cutting carrot and cucumber batons. l BITE-SIZED BUFFET Lots of children prefer ‘picky’ food rather than a large portion of something. Cut sandwiches or homemade pizza into mini triangles and wraps into pinwheels. A few crackers with cheese, pieces of fruit and some popcorn or crispy chickpeas would also work well. l MAKE A MEAL OF IT If your children prefer a hot meal to sandwiches, invest in a vacuum flask to fill with pasta or soup, or porridge topped with a fruity compote and seeds.

2 ripe bananas, peeled and mashed 150g porridge oats 2 tbsp ground almonds 1 /2 tsp ground cinnamon 100g raspberries (fresh or frozen)

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 4 and line two baking trays with baking parchment. Mix the banana, oats, almonds, cinnamon and a pinch of salt in a bowl to make a sticky dough. Stir through the raspberries gently so as not to break them up too much. Roll tablespoons of the mixture into balls, then arrange on the baking trays and flatten gently with your hand. 2 Bake for 15 mins until firm at the edges and golden brown. Leave to cool. Will keep in an airtight container for up to three days. GOOD TO KNOW healthy PER SERVING 86 kcals • fat 3g • saturates 0.3g • carbs 13g • sugars 4g • fibre 2g • protein 2g • salt 0.04g

DIY TREATS

Healthy homemade snacks We all know kids love a snack, but shop-bought ones can be high in salt, fat and sugar, and they often carry a hefty price tag, too. Try making your own snacks like our cookies (right) using simple ingredients to save money and pack in some nutrients. For more ideas, go to bbcgoodfood.com/ recipes/snacks-kids-recipes

Lots of children prefer ‘picky’ food, so cut sandwiches into mini triangles and wraps into pinwheels

& For a low-fat, fruity ice lolly that the kids will love, see page 65.

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 63


advertisement feature Valencia, Spain

Borealis sailing at sunset

Guests dining in Colours & Tastes

A taste of

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From authentic on-board dining to captivating culinary tours, Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines is perfect for the adventurous foodie

K

nown for its expertly curated itineraries and impeccable service, Fred. Olsen is a family-owned cruise line with nearly 200 years of seafaring heritage. Its smaller ships can access places that larger vessels simply cannot reach, whether that’s scenic routes through narrow rivers, fjords and waterways, or ports closer to the heart of beautiful cities. Plus, with fewer passengers on board, the crew can get to know each guest individually for a more personal service. Every Fred. Olsen itinerary is crafted by a small team of passionate journey planners who look far beyond the usual tourist trails. So, you can expect an authentic experience at every destination, with plenty of opportunities to immerse yourself in the culture – and, of course, the cuisine.

FOODIE-FOCUSED ITINERARIES Culinary highlights are always a priority for Fred. Olsen, with food and drink tours

on many of its itineraries showcasing a range of regional favourites. For instance, on the Discover Spanish Traditions cruise, you can learn about the history of paella in Valencia and explore one of the oldest wineries in Spain while docked in Cádiz. Alternatively, the French Rivers with Bordeaux cruise includes a tour of a family-run vineyard in Medoc, and a chance to visit the Calvados distillery in Honfleur for a taste of Normandy’s famous apple brandy.

DESTINATION DINING If you’re keen to sample many different cuisines on your cruise, you’ll love The View restaurant on Bolette and Borealis – the two newest additions to the Fred. Olsen fleet. It serves a range of dishes inspired by each of the destinations you’ll visit. The meals are prepared with local ingredients and each day the chefs put on a cooking demonstration

For more information and to book your cruise, visit fredolsencruises.com or call 0800 0355 026

Glazed Peking duck at Colours & Tastes

so you can learn how to recreate one of the dishes at home. Previous highlights include ropa vieja (shredded beef ) in Las Palmas, paella de marisco (seafood paella) in Santa Cruz and bolos de coco (Portuguese coconut cakes) in Funchal.

GLOBAL FLAVOURS Fred. Olsen also offers speciality dining restaurants on board, alongside exclusive wine-tasting sessions hosted by an inhouse sommelier. On Bolette, Borealis and Balmoral, Vasco serves seafood, curry and grilled meat dishes inspired by Goa’s culinary traditions and cooked authentically by Goan chefs, while Colours & Tastes has a modern Asian fusion menu with a variety of Japanese, Thai, Chinese and Filipino favourites. Unsurprisingly, almost 90% of guests rate the food on all Fred. Olsen cruises as ‘excellent’ or ‘good’, so you can be assured you’re always in for a first-class meal!


easy

no-cook treat

summer fun Make the most of British strawberry season with these homemade lollies

recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph HANNAH TAYLOR-EDDINGTON

Strawberry ice lollies Use up fruit that’s past its best in these lollies – any mushy bits can be easily trimmed away. MAKES 6 PREP 10 mins plus 4 hrs freezing EASY V ❄

Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Food stylist LIBBY SILBERMANN | Stylist SARAH BIRKS

400g strawberries, hulled and roughly chopped 150g natural yogurt 30g caster sugar or 2 tbsp honey (or to taste)

1 Tip the strawberries into a blender, food processor or smoothie-maker and blitz to a purée. Add the yogurt and blitz again to combine. Taste for sweetness and add as much sugar or honey as needed – this will depend on the ripeness of the fruit as well as your personal taste. 2 Divide the mixture evenly between the holes of a six-hole ice lolly mould – they should be filled to the brim. Insert the lolly sticks and freeze for 4 hrs or until solid. Will keep frozen for up to a month. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • vit c • gluten free PER SERVING 65 kcals • fat 1g • saturates 0.5g • carbs 11g • sugars 11g • fibre 3g • protein 2g • salt 0.05g

CUSTOMISE YOUR LOLLIES  Switch things up These lollies can be made with plenty of other fruits, such as raspberries, bananas, pineapple, mango or a mix – just adjust the amount of sugar or honey you use to suit the sweetness of the fruit.  Add texture Chop 100g of the strawberries into small chunks and stir these through the puréed mixture before freezing.  Make them vegan Swap the yogurt for apple or orange juice and omit the honey.  DIY mould If you don’t have lolly moulds, pour the mix into small yogurt pots with lolly sticks, or for mini lollies, into an ice cube tray with blunt toothpicks.

Turn the page for more clever, cost-saving ways to use your freezer

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 65


new series

ideas to save you money

Make your freezer work for you As well as extending the shelf-life of food and saving on waste, your freezer offers various shortcuts for preparing meals words GOOD FOOD TEAM

What should I stock my freezer with? MIXED VEG Frozen vegetables are often healthier than fresh, because they’re processed and frozen just after being picked, so there’s no time for them to degrade in transit from farm to shop. You can also choose packs that combine different types of veg for specific purposes, whether it’s packs of stir-fry veg for noodles, fillings for enchiladas, broccoli and cauliflower for gratins and curries, or carrots, beans and sweetcorn for soups, stews and rice dishes. SWEETCORN Frozen sweetcorn is good value, tastes better than canned and is a family-friendly choice. Because the kernels are frozen separately, you can easily measure out what’s needed, as and when you need it. Use it in chowders and pancakes or stir into cornbread. A bag will keep for months to no ill effect. Corn on the cob cut into sections can also be found frozen, a wise buy during barbecue season or as a snack for 66 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

kids. Try our curried sweetcorn soup at bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/ curried-sweetcorn-soup. BERRIES Frozen blueberries, raspberries, and cherries allow you to enjoy a taste of summer all year round, and are often considerably cheaper than fresh. You won’t waste any either, racing to eat them before they turn mushy. Their texture is changed by freezing, so they’re best used in recipes where they’ll be cooked or puréed, or you don’t mind them collapsing (stirred into yogurt or porridge, for example). Our frozen fruit crumble (see recipe, right) can be made with any bag of frozen berries or a few bags of fruit that might be going past their best. CHOPPED ONIONS While some find chopping an onion therapeutic, there are those who find it a chore, especially when trying to get dinner on the table in a hurry. This is where

Frozen fruit crumble SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V

100g plain flour 50g rolled oats 100g butter, cut into cubes 50g light brown soft sugar 60g flaked almonds (optional) 3 tbsp ground almonds 500g frozen berries, defrosted

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Put the flour, oats, butter and sugar in a bowl and rub together with your fingers to a crumble texture. Bake for 10 mins, stirring to break it up after 5 mins. Mix in the flaked almonds, if using. Will keep for two days in an airtight container. 2 Sprinkle the ground almonds into an ovenproof dish, then spoon in the berries. Sprinkle over the crumble and bake for 15 mins. Serve with custard, cream or ice cream. PER SERVING 330 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 9g • carbs 31g • sugars 13g • fibre 6g • protein 5g • salt 0.3g


easy

NICE TO HAVE  SOFRITO MIX This trio of onion, carrot and celery is used as the base for many Mediterranean recipes. It can be bought ready-made in bags, diced and ready for frying.

 FROZEN HERBS Keep an eye out for frozen herbs – they’re a great long-life alternative to fresh herbs.

 SMOOTHIE FRUIT BAGS Filled with combinations of fruit, these bags of vitamin-packed goodness can be tipped in the blender and blitzed while frozen.

 PASTRY Ready-made puff pastry, shortcrust and filo are a go-to for professional chefs as well as home cooks. Pastry can be used as pie lids, for tarts (great for using up the odd spoonful of jam), picnic snacks like cheese straws, and other everyday recipes.

handy bags of diced onions come in. You can buy large bags in the freezer section, or buy fresh onions and chop and freeze them yourself when you have a bit of time at the weekend. If you choose to do this, put them in a bag and pat it flat before freezing, so they don’t clump together too much. Then try using them in our easy chickpea soup (see recipe, right). FISH AND SHELLFISH Whether you want to use fillets, whole fish or make fishcakes, frozen seafood is easy to use. Look out for shellfish, too, like squid, mussels and small prawns. Depending on where you shop, this can be a great budget option. Bags labelled ‘fish pie mix’ will give you a selection that’s good for using in pies, of course, but also curries, like our one-pot coconut fish curry (bbcgoodfood.com/ recipes/onepot-coconut-fish-curry) and paella. In all cases, you should be able to check the label to see whether the seafood is from a sustainable source. Smaller pieces of fish and seafood can be cooked from frozen, so you don’t have to think ahead. If you’re cooking larger fillets, you may find liquid is released during cooking, but you can stir that back into a sauce or rice, or drain away.

Moroccan-style chickpea soup SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 20 mins EASY V ❄

1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, chopped 2 celery sticks, chopped 2 tsp ground cumin 600ml hot vegetable stock 400g can chopped plum tomatoes with garlic 400g can chickpeas, drained 100g frozen broad beans 1 /2 lemon, zested and juiced handful of chopped coriander or parsley and flatbreads, to serve

1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan, then fry the onion and celery over a low heat for 10 mins to soften, stirring frequently. Tip in the cumin and fry for another minute. 2 Turn up the heat, then add the stock, tomatoes and chickpeas, and a grinding of black pepper. Once bubbling, turn the heat down and simmer for 8 mins. Add the broad beans and lemon juice, and cook for a further 2 mins. Season, then top with a sprinkling of lemon zest and herbs. Serve with flatbreads. GOOD TO KNOW healthy PER SERVING 148 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 17g • sugars none • fibre 6g • protein 9g • salt 1.2g

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 67


THINGS TO FREEZE YOURSELF Here’s a checklist of some of our favourite things to freeze in order to save on waste or get ahead. Homemade stock Grated leftover cheese Batches of fried onions  Batches of tomato sauce (for pizza and pasta)  Batches of muffins for lunchboxes or breakfast  Rice, cooked and quickly cooled within an hour of cooking  Eggs that are nearly at their use-by date, cracked into muffin tins (pop them out when frozen and store in a freezer bag or box) for when you need beaten eggs Potatoes, boiled for 5 mins, then continue cooking from defrosted Leftover cooked pasta or noodles

Good freezer maintenance DEFROSTING An icy freezer is an inefficient one, so you may need to defrost it when ice builds up. Don’t worry about the food; most things will remain frozen in the fridge for a couple of hours while the freezer defrosts. KEEP IT WELL STOCKED A full freezer is more economical to run because less cold air is needed to circulate around the shelves, therefore less power is used. LABEL YOUR ITEMS To stop things getting lost in the back of the freezer, label everything – and before buying anything else, check that you don’t already have it in stock.

68 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

SPINACH This is a wonder ingredient that’s available frozen in small portions, or as loose leaves that can be used to great effect in curries, pastas, stews and soups. For recipes where a little extra liquid won’t hurt, you can add spinach frozen, but for others, defrost the spinach and squeeze all the water out. Once you’ve got the knack of it, this will become as regular a freezer staple as peas. Try it in our spinach madeleine (bbcgoodfood.com/ recipes/spinachmadeleine) for a side or main dish. BREAD Freeze sliced bread as soon as you buy it and you’ll never waste a slice. Bread can be toasted from frozen or defrosted as you need it. Pittas, wraps and other bread products can also be frozen and defrosted easily. Bake-fromfrozen bread and part-cooked bakery options are also good if you plan to put the oven on anyway. Toast can also form the basis of a satisfying meal, like our smoky chickpeas recipe (right). PEAS The definitive frozen food, used in everything from soups and Sunday roasts, to fried rice and falafel. Peas are a versatile, low-cost veg, and a true winner. Most of our pea recipes can be cooked with frozen ones, as well as added to cold dishes like our Little Gem & pea salad at: bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/ little-gem-pea-salad. CHIPS Not just a side dish, chips can be used as a base for toppings and make a great substitute for a pastry lid on a pie (you’ll find a fish pie and a braised beef pie on bbcgoodfood.com that use this technique). Or, you can add herbs and spices to them, like our thyme & oregano chips (see the recipe on page 70) which make a fabulous side for a pork souvlaki or chicken gyros. Loaded fries are a great weekend treat, too – find our meatball marinara fries at bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/ meatball-marinara-fries.

Smoky chickpeas on toast SERVES 2 PREP 2 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V ❄ chickpeas only

1 tsp olive or vegetable oil, plus a drizzle 1 small onion or banana shallot, chopped 2 tsp chipotle paste 250ml passata 400g can chickpeas, drained 2 tsp honey 2 tsp red wine vinegar 2-4 slices bread 2 eggs

Toast can form the basis of a satisfying meal


easy

Katsu curry wrap BREADED CHICKEN OR TURKEY Breaded poultry like goujons can be a smart buy if you want a meal that is quick to prepare in the evening. Larger pieces, like flattened chicken breast, can serve more than one person in buns (in place of beef burgers), or slice and serve on top of ramen or with rice for katsu curry. Our chicken katsu wrap is also very simple and quick to make (see recipe, right), and uses just four ingredients that are readyprepared and, of course, available to buy from the freezer cabinet.

SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 10 mins EASY

400g chicken goujons 280g katsu curry sauce 4 large tortilla wraps 250g stir-fry vegetables (without beansprouts)

1 Cook the goujons following pack instructions. Heat the katsu sauce in a small pan over a low-medium heat until piping hot. 2 Chop the goujons into bite-size pieces and toss with the sauce. Warm the tortillas in the microwave, then layer with the chicken and raw veg, roll up and serve. PER SERVING 569 kcals • fat 25g • saturates 5g • carbs 60g • sugars 12g • fibre 7g • protein 23g • salt 2.2g

Our katsu wrap uses just four ingredients that are available to buy from the freezer cabinet

1 Heat half the oil in a pan over a low-medium heat and cook the onion for 5-8 mins until softened. Add the chipotle paste, passata, chickpeas, honey and vinegar. Season and bubble for 5 mins. 2 Meanwhile, toast the bread. Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan and fry the eggs over a medium heat until cooked to your liking. Drizzle the toast with a little more oil, then top with the smoky chickpeas and fried eggs. GOOD TO KNOW healthy PER SERVING 423 kcals • fat 15g • saturates 3g • carbs 45g • sugars 15g • fibre 9g • protein 22g • salt 0.7g

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 69


easy

& GET IN TOUCH We’d love to hear what you’d like to see more of, or anything we can do differently and any other ways we can help, by using the hashtags #GFCookSmart, #AskGoodFood or via email on goodfood@ immediate.co.uk.

Thyme & oregano chips SERVES 6-8 PREP 5 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

600g frozen fries 2 tbsp olive oil 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp dried thyme ½ tsp garlic granules large pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)

1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7 with a sturdy baking tray inside. Toss the frozen fries in a bowl with the other ingredients and a large pinch of salt to evenly coat. 2 Carefully spread the fries over the tray. Cook for 15 mins until starting to turn golden, then use a spatula to flip them. Bake for 15-20 mins more until golden and crisp. Try serving with our chicken gyros, as pictured (bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/bigbarbecue-chicken-kebab) PER SERVING 130 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 1g • carbs 15g • sugars 0.1g • fibre 1g • protein 1g • salt 0.2g

Points to remember It’s best to freeze food when it’s fresh – the intention being to keep it at its best. But, you can also save on waste by freezing items that are past their prime. 1 Be sure to cool cooked foods completely before you freeze them. Freezing food when hot is not energy efficient, as it raises the temperature in the freezer and could cause other foods to start defrosting. 2 Only refreeze food if you’re cooking it before putting it back in the freezer. Food-borne bacteria will become inactive when frozen, but will thaw along with the food and become active again. But, if you cook the food inbetween (for example, thawing beef mince, using it to make bolognese, then freezing), the bacteria will be killed off in the cooking. That’s provided you haven’t allowed the food to become unsafe by leaving it hanging around too long after defrosting, or defrosting it in a dangerous manner (for example, somewhere very hot). Some bacteria can produce toxins that cannot be killed by heat. 3 Remember to label and wrap foods properly or put them in sealed containers; otherwise, your food may get freezer-burn.

70 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

What to freeze with care Most individual ingredients can be frozen, however, some foods simply aren’t as freezer-friendly.

Hard-boiled eggs go rubbery, so chop them first. Veg with a high water content – such as lettuce, cucumber, beansprouts and radishes – go limp and mushy when defrosted, so plan on blending them or use them in dishes where this doesn’t matter. Soft herbs, like parsley, basil and chives, can be mixed into dishes but won’t be good for garnishing.

OUR

P PROMISE

To support you ou with w th the challenge of rising food and energy prices, we’re bringing together knowledge and ideas to help you eat well, whatever your budget. You can find even more resources and advice on low-cost cooking at bbcgoodfood.com/cook-smart. We’d also love to hear from you with any tips you have to share using the hashtag #GFCookSmart.


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Our health editor Tracey Raye shares a summery vegan breakfast recipe, plus advice on reducing inflammation HEALTH NEWS

Top 10 anti-inflammatory foods to try

1 Fatty fish like salmon or mackerel 2 Dark chocolate 3 Berries 4 Pomegranate 5 Walnuts 6 Olives and olive oil 7 Turmeric 8 Avocado 9 Pistachios 10 Green tea

HEALTH TREND Vegan almond berry baked oats Other images MALERAPASO, HDERE | E+ | GETTY, JAKOB FRIDHOLM | JOHNER IMAGES | GETTY

Recipe SARA BUENFELD | Recipe photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist ELLIE JARVIS | Stylist FAYE WEARS

Whether you have an injury, suffer with arthritis or have an infection, your natural immune response will kick in. However, other issues arise when inflammation turns into a low-grade, long-term condition. Certain foods containing plant chemicals have antioxidant properties that can help:

Frozen berries are an economical choice for this breakfast bake, even in the summer. Of course, you can always use fresh, especially if you grow your own, or shop for own-brand ‘less than perfect’ produce at the supermarket. This makes a lovely, light pudding, too. SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V

150g porridge oats 2 tsp vanilla extract 225ml unsweetened almond milk, plus extra to serve (optional) 1 large, very ripe banana, peeled 185g frozen mixed berries (ours had a combination of strawberries, blackberries and currants) 1 tsp maple syrup (optional) 1-2 tbsp toasted flaked almonds

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1 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/ gas 5. Tip the oats into a heatproof bowl, then pour over 450ml boiling water from the kettle. Stir well, then stir in the vanilla and almond milk. 2 Mash the banana, then spread over the base of a medium baking dish (ours was a 20 x 28cm oval) and stir in the frozen fruit to fully combine. You want the banana to sweeten the berries, but you can add 1 tsp maple syrup, if you like. Pour over the oat mixture and scatter with the almonds. Bake for 30-40 mins until set and the fruit juices are bubbling at the edges of the dish. Scoop into bowls and serve with a little extra milk, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • low fat • low cal • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 228 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 33g • sugars 9g • fibre 5g • protein 7g • salt 0.1g

Learn more at bbcgoodfood.com/ howto/guide/top-10-antiinflammatory-foods

3 reasons to enjoy the sun The sun is our main source of vitamin D, essential for strong bones and healthy immune system Sun exposure is a natural mood-booster It may help certain skin conditions, such as psoriasis Don’t forget to be mindful of sun safety by applying sunscreen. Discover our free Healthy Diet Plan by scanning the code.


easy

healthy diet plan

cereal thriller Wake up to this novel breakfast that uses popcorn as a crunchy base recipe SARA BUENFELD photograph WILL HEAP

Popcorn muesli SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins NO COOK EASY V

HEALTHY

CALCIUM

Shoot director EMMA WINCHESTER | Food stylist ROSIE REYNOLDS | Stylist LAUREN MILLER

100g porridge oats 2 tbsp toasted three-seed mix (ours included flaxseed and pumpkin and sunflower seeds) 40g plain or lightly salted popcorn 30g sultanas 6 walnut halves, broken up

4 x 120g pots bio yogurt milk, to serve (optional)

1 Combine the oats, seed mix, popcorn, sultanas and walnuts. Will keep in a sealed jar or airtight container for up to five days. 2 When you’re ready to serve, spoon the yogurt into bowls, then scatter over the muesli and pour over a little milk to loosen, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • calcium PER SERVING 332 kcals • fat 14g • saturates 4g • carbs 36g • sugars 14g • fibre 4g • protein 13g • salt 0.3g

Scan here to sign up for a free My Good Food account and access our latest Healthy Diet Plan, or visit bbcgoodfood.com/healthy-diet-plan

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easy

5 healthy ideas

salads Enjoy a light lunch or dinner in the garden when the sun shines using these wholesome recipes Chicken garden salad with elderflower dressing SERVES 6 PREP 25 mins COOK 5 mins EASY

Drop a bunch of asparagus, spears halved, into a pan of boiling water. After 1 min, add 200g sugar snap peas. After 30 seconds, tip in 140g frozen or fresh peas. Cook for 30 seconds, then drain and plunge into ice-cold water. After 2 mins, drain. Whisk together 2 tbsp elderflower cordial, 2 tbsp white wine vinegar, the zest and juice of 1 large lemon and 3 tbsp rapeseed oil. Add 1 small cooked chicken, shredded, 250g sliced radishes, 1 thinly sliced red onion, the drained vegetables, and 1 large torn curly lettuce. Gently toss everything until well coated. Pile onto a platter and scatter over a handful of pea shoots, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • folate • vit c • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 419 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 4g • carbs 11g • sugars 9g • fibre 4g • protein 50g • salt 0.4g

Kisir (Turkish bulgur salad)

Chickpea salad SERVES 6 PREP 10 mins NO COOK EASY V

Combine a 400g can drained and rinsed chickpeas, a handful each of chopped coriander and parsley, 1 thickly sliced red onion, 2 large chopped tomatoes, 2 tbsp olive oil, 2 tbsp harissa and the juice of 1 lemon. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • gluten free PER SERVING 123 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 1g • carbs 12g • sugar 4g • fibre 5g • protein 4g • salt none

Kisir (Turkish bulgur salad) SERVES 4-6 PREP 25 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V

10-minute couscous salad

Fry 1 sliced red onion in 1 tbsp olive oil in a pan over a medium heat. Add 2 chopped garlic cloves and cook for 30 seconds. Add 2 tsp ground cumin and 1 finely chopped red or green chilli. Cook for 1 min. Stir in 2 tbsp tomato purée and 175ml boiling water. Add 250g bulgur wheat, season and stir well. Remove from the heat, then cover and leave for 15 mins until the water has been absorbed. Fluff with a fork. Mix through 4 chopped plum tomatoes, 15g roughly chopped walnuts, 60g pomegranate seeds and 30g each chopped mint and flat-leaf parsley. Mix the juice of 1 large lemon with 85ml extra virgin olive oil, and stir through 13/4 tbsp pomegranate molasses.

SERVES 2 PREP 10 mins NO COOK EASY V

Tip 100g couscous into a large heatproof bowl and pour over 200ml hot low-salt veg stock. Cover. Leave for 10 mins until fluffy and the stock has been absorbed. Add 2 sliced spring onions, 1 sliced red pepper and 1/2 finely chopped cucumber, and stir well. Crumble in 50g cubed feta and sprinkle over 2 tbsp pine nuts.

GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy

GOOD TO KNOW 327 kcals • fat 17g • saturates 5g •

PER SERVING (6) 371 kcals • fat 19g • saturates 3g • carbs 40g • sugars 9g • fibre 5g • protein 7g • salt 0.2g

carbs 33g • sugars 7g • fibre 2g • protein 13g • salt 0.9g

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Pearled spelt salad with peas & gooseberries SERVES 2 PREP 15 mins COOK 25 mins EASY V

Put 1/2 finely chopped onion, 1 /2 finely chopped celery stick and 1 finely chopped carrot in a pan with 200ml water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 15 mins. Add 50g pearled spelt, cover the pan and simmer for 10 mins more. Add 1/4 sliced fennel bulb and 6 pea pods, and cook for 10 mins. Check that the spelt is cooked – it should be slightly al dente rather than soft. Season to taste, then strain. Chill for 1 hr. To serve, put 1/2 small bag of salad leaves on a plate, then spoon the spelt and vegetables on top. Dress with 2 sliced tomatoes, 3 sliced gooseberries, the pea pods and fennel fronds. Finally, drizzle with a little rapeseed oil. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • healthy • low fat • low cal • calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • 4 of 5-a-day PER SERVING 185 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 1g • carbs 27g • sugars 12g • fibre 10g • protein 7g • salt 0.3g


WEEKEND

Shake up Sunday lunch with barbecued fish, do something different with courgettes or honey, and master a classic British pud with Tom Kerridge

TOM KERRIDGE Cherry bakewell tart, p102

SEASONAL Courgette curry, p96

NEW WAYS FOR SUNDAYS

HONEY & LIME ICE CREAM, p82

Barbecued fish with lemon & rosemary, p90

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1 I N G R E D I E N T – 3 WAY S

SWEET AS HONEY Use this sweet nectar in summery dishes from Roopa Gulati, including a vibrant mango salad and zesty ice cream photographs MYLES NEW

T

he best honey I’ve ever tasted was sold by the roadside in the Himalayan foothills. It was poured into an empty rum bottle, the outside of which was already smudged with sticky fingerprints. Dark and syrupy, it was perfumed with heady meadow flowers and superior to any I’ve had since. Most of what we buy in supermarkets is a blend of honeys from several countries, and much cheaper than specialist varieties. But, this is the honey I cook with because it provides a good base for other ingredients. My favourite flavour combination is warm honey with a bit of ground saffron and orange zest – it’s lovely on hot buttered toast. Sometimes I’ll gently heat honey with lemon zest or bruised lemongrass stems and let it steep for a couple of days, then drizzle it over fruit salads. Honey often becomes grainy after it’s been in the cupboard for a while – if this happens, warm the jar (without its lid) for a few seconds in the microwave – any crystals will soon dissolve. You can also put the sealed jar in a jug of hot water.

Roopa Gulati lived in India for 20 years, working as a chef, writer and broadcaster. On her return to the UK, she worked as food editor at UKTV’s Good Food Channel and was a restaurant reviewer for Time Out. Her latest book is India: The World Vegetarian (£20, Bloomsbury Absolute) and she’s currently working on a new title. @roopagulati @roopagul

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weekend

Honey & soy chicken, p80

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Honey & soy chicken Caramelised honey, darkened with soy sauce, is the base marinade for this crowd-pleasing dish. It’s great for family meals, buffets and picnics, too. I often make an extra batch for the freezer – first put the chicken thighs on a tray lined with baking parchment to stop them from sticking, and once frozen, transfer to a bag where they will keep for at least three months. SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins plus at least 2 hrs marinating COOK 30 mins EASY ❄

8 skin-on chicken thighs (about 1kg) 4 tbsp honey 4 tbsp dark soy sauce 4 tbsp lemon juice 4 tbsp tomato ketchup 30g ginger, peeled and finely grated 4 garlic cloves, crushed ½ tsp red chilli flakes 2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted and ground using a pestle and mortar or spice grinder 1 tbsp sunflower oil spring onions, rice and salad or greens, to serve

Mango & green bean salad with honey & passion fruit dressing This dressing, with honey for sweetness, plus warming chilli and tangy passion fruit, marries well with the fragrant mangoes and crisp green beans. Look out for seasonal South Asian mangoes – many larger supermarkets now sell them at an affordable price. SERVES 4 PREP 25 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V

200g fine green beans, trimmed 3 passion fruits 1-2 tbsp honey 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 10g ginger, peeled and finely grated ½-1 red chilli, deseeded and finely chopped, depending on how much heat you prefer squeeze of lime juice, to taste

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1 Using a sharp knife, score the chicken thighs twice through the skin, season and transfer to a bowl. 2 Whisk the honey with the soy, lemon juice, ketchup, ginger, garlic, chilli flakes and fennel seeds. Pour this over the chicken, making sure that each piece is coated, then cover and marinate in the fridge for at least 2-3 hrs, or overnight if you have time. 3 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Line a large roasting tin with foil and put in the oven to heat up for 10 mins. Gently shake the excess marinade off the chicken thighs, reserving the bowl of leftover marinade, then carefully arrange in a single layer in the hot tin. Drizzle with the oil and roast for 10 mins. 4 Meanwhile, pour the reserved marinade into a small pan and bring to the boil over a medium-low heat, stirring often. Cook for 7-10 mins, or until thick and syrupy. 5 Remove the chicken from the oven and carefully pour any juices from the tin into the pan with the syrupy sauce and continue to cook for 5 mins until the sauce is the consistency of double cream.

6 Spoon the sauce over the chicken, then return the roasting tin to the oven for 10-15 mins more, or until the thighs are sticky and tender, and the juices run clear when pierced with a knife. Slice some spring onions along their length and scrape a knife along the shreds to curl them, if you like, then scatter over the chicken. Serve warm or at room temperature with rice and salad or steamed greens.

1kg mangoes 1 tbsp chopped coriander 1 tbsp mint leaves

to add a little more honey or lime juice. Aim for a balance of sweet, tart and acidic. 4 Slice down through the mangoes along both sides of the stone so you end up with two ‘cheeks’. Using a tablespoon, scoop the flesh from the skin and cut into 3cm chunks. Scrape and roughly chop any fleshy bits from the stones. 5 Transfer the mango flesh to a shallow serving dish, drizzle with 3 tbsp of the dressing, then gently spoon over the green beans. Stir the coriander into the remaining dressing and pour it over the beans, then scatter with mint and serve.

1 Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil over a high heat and cook the green beans for 2 mins until just tender. Drain and rinse under cold running water to halt the cooking process and retain the vibrant colour. Pat dry with kitchen paper and set aside. 2 Halve the passion fruits, scoop the pulp into a small pan and bring to a simmer over a low heat. Cook for 5 mins until the pulp has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and press the pulp through a sieve into a small bowl, discarding the seeds. 3 Whisk 1 tbsp honey into the passion fruit purée, followed by the oil, ginger, chilli and lime juice. Season and taste – you might need

PER SERVING 348 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 4g • carbs 26g • sugars 24g • fibre 1g • protein 21g • salt 2.5g

tips Chop any leftover cooked chicken and scatter it over a tortilla wrap. Top with thinly sliced radishes, spring onions and chopped coriander before rolling it up and serving. For an extra layer of warming spice, use 1 tsp Chinese five-spice powder instead of the ground fennel seeds, and swap the chilli flakes for 2 red chillies, deseeded and chopped.

GOOD TO KNOW low fat • folate • fibre • vit c • 2 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 257 kcals • fat 7g • saturates 1g • carbs 42g • sugars 42g • fibre 8g • protein 4g • salt 0.02g


weekend

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weekend Honey & lime ice cream

600ml double cream 397g can condensed milk 3 tbsp honey 3 limes, 2 zested, all juiced 60ml gin 150g raspberries, to serve

condensed milk, honey, most of the lime zest, all the juice and the gin. 2 Pour into a shallow container and freeze until firm, about 3-4 hrs or overnight. You won’t need to stir the cream as it sets – the gin stops it from freezing solid. 3 Take the ice cream out of the freezer 10 mins before serving to soften slightly. Top with the remaining lime zest and the raspberries to serve. Will keep frozen for two months.

1 Whip the cream until it just starts to thicken, then lightly whisk in the

PER SERVING (60g scoop) 230 kcals • fat 18g • saturates 11g • carbs 14g • sugars 14g • fibre none • protein 2g • salt 0.1g

Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Food stylist LIBBY SILBERMANN | Stylist JENNY IGGLEDEN

SERVES 4-6 PREP 15 mins plus 3-4 hrs freezing NO COOK EASY V ❄

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Taste Bordeaux wines With superior wines served alongside dinner and plenty of tastings and pairings included throughout, our cruise is the ideal time to let out your inner sommelier. Tour La Rochelle Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, La Rochelle’s medieval and Renaissance Old Town and harbour area are particularly impressive to discover. Uncover Biarritz The resort, with its sweeping promenade and vast beaches, offers a range of activities to enjoy; perhaps take a stroll past the atmospheric Old Port to Rocher de la Vierge. La Rhune Mountain Railway Enjoy the breathtaking sights of the surrounding French countryside, as we ascend nearly 3,000 feet to the summit of La Rhune Mountain.

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close connections

I dreamt of cooking for my family Wayne Vowden reflects on his journey through sight loss, and how a new and unexpected adventure unfolded in his kitchen words PUNTEHA VAN TERHEYDEN

T

here was a moment that marked a real turning point in dad-of-two Wayne Vowden’s life: carefully pulling a perfectly baked and piped victoria sponge out of the fridge and presenting it to the astonishment of his wife and two children. It wasn’t the first time Wayne had baked for them, but it was the first time since he’d lost 99 per cent of his vision. The poignant moment reduced the whole family to happy tears. Wayne’s vision had gradually reduced to one tiny spec of sight in his left eye, which he describes as ‘seeing things through a straw against a glare of light,’ following a lifelong progression of Retinitis Pigmentosa (RP), a rare genetic disorder that involves the breakdown and loss of cells in the retina. ‘I’ve never seen my daughter’s full face but I’m still one of the lucky ones,’ says Wayne. ‘RP can take your sight as early as eight years old, yet I saw my wife walk down the aisle and my children being born. ‘The impact on my life, however, was widespread. I went from having a technical support job I loved to being registered blind in 2008 and my job becoming untenable. It was a huge change to come to terms with, both practically and emotionally. My wife Jen was wonderful and took over providing for our family, but my feeling of wanting to take care of her and the kids has never left me.’ It was a feeling that especially surged around birthdays for Wayne (40). ‘Growing up, my mum had always baked a birthday cake for us kids, and I wanted to do the same for mine,’ says Wayne. ‘But, I’d never cooked or baked before due to my eyesight. Jen did all the cooking.’ Wayne’s journey into the kitchen began beside a river where, after his vision loss, he continued to enjoy his lifelong passion of fishing. Wayne says, ‘I’m known as “The Blind Angler” and through a fishing competition, I made friends with Joe Dellar, head chef and the manager of a seafood Clockwise from top: Wayne with the cake he baked for wife Jen’s birthday; their children Zachary and Natalia; Wayne and Jen

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weekend Wayne with chef pal Joe. Left: the pair met through a fishing competition

Wayne grows strawberries on his allotment, which he turns into jam

restaurant, Harbour View in Essex. Joe was doing catch and cooks and he made a joke about me working in his kitchen.’ Wayne laughed it off until one day, Jen was delayed at work and wouldn’t be home in time to cook tea for the children, Zachary, seven and Natalia, three. Usually, Wayne would put together a jam sandwich or order a takeaway. ‘But, I didn’t want that this My mum time,’ he says. ‘Instead, I decided to make the kids beans on toast. I video-called my sister and with her had always direction and Zachary’s help, I moved around the baked a kitchen and made the beans on toast. birthday ‘I hadn’t cooked in 12 years and after the kids said cake for us how lovely tea had been, I sent a picture to Joe with a voice clip. He could hear how emotional I was about kids and it and messaged back to say, “I’m so proud of you, but I wanted the portion control was a bit off and the plates a bit to do the messy, mate!” His banter had me laughing out loud.’ same for Wayne joked about Joe teaching him, not realising that quip would mark the start of a new adventure mine for the two friends. Wayne says, ‘Through my volunteer work with RNIB, I helped with a project to get other blind people to follow their dreams. Cooking for my family was mine, so Joe began teaching me, travelling Turn the page for Jen’s 200 miles to our home once a month, victoria sponge recipe and I began filming our sessions for our YouTube channel, Culinary Vision. It was a hit.’ So far, the pair have cooked homemade pizzas, omelette, pasta and meatballs, and slow-cooked lamb stew, which was a hit with Wayne’s 90-year-old grandmother. Wayne now has an allotment, growing strawberries to turn into jam, carrots for carrot cake and

Above: Hearty sausage rolls cooked by Wayne

raspberries for the kids to enjoy this summer. He’s even felt inspired to brew homemade cider. ‘I made that victoria sponge using Jen’s own recipe,’ says Wayne. ‘The kids had so much fun and I was shocked at how that feeling of being able to give something to my children affected me.’ Wayne has his work cut out, as Jen used to be a chef herself. ‘This girl can cook, so if I do it, I have to do it right.’ Luckily, the second victoria sponge Wayne baked for Jen’s birthday proved the first cake hadn’t been a fluke. Wayne says, ‘None of this would have started without Joe teaching me. It’s a privilege to have such a great chef as my tutor. I’ve learned that even though you might get things wrong as you learn, it’s alright. And, if my journey helps anyone with a disability to go after their dreams, I’d love that.’

& You can find Wayne and Joe’s cooking videos on YouTube.

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 85


Wayne has provided specific timings for mixing in ingredients to help guide visually impaired readers. SERVES 8 PREP 15 mins plus cooling COOK 25 mins EASY V

250g caster sugar 250g unsalted butter, softened, plus a little extra for the tin 4 free-range eggs 250g self-raising flour 2 tsp vanilla extract 2 tbsp milk 3 heaped tbsp raspberry jam icing sugar, for dusting (optional)

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Butter two 20cm round tins and line with baking parchment. 2 Beat the caster sugar and butter in a large bowl until the mixture is pale and fluffy, about 5 mins. Beat in the eggs, one by one, for 86 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

15-20 seconds each time until the mixture is combined (about 3 mins). 3 Beat in the flour to combine for about 30 seconds, then the vanilla and milk for about 10 seconds. 4 Divide the mixture between the tins and bake for 20-25 mins. Check the sponges are baked by inserting a clean knife into the centre of each. If it comes out clean, they’re ready. If mixture clings to the knife, bake for 3 mins more, then check again. 5 Leave the sponges to cool in the tin for a few minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack and leave to cool for 1 hr. Spread the jam over the risen side of one of the sponges, then sandwich with the other sponge on top, same side up, and dust with icing sugar, if you like. Will keep for up to three days in an airtight container. PER SERVING (8) 534 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 17g • carbs 59g • sugars 36g • fibre 1g • protein 8g • salt 0.4g

#GFLetsCookTogether Share your recipes, tips and photos with us

Recipe photograph HANNAH TAYLOR-EDDINGTON | Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART

Jen’s victoria sponge

Food stylist LIBBY SILBERMANN | Stylist SARAH BIRKS

weekend


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N E W WAY S F O R S U N D AY S

FISH AL FRESCO

Cooking fish over coals is simple, but provides a sense of occasion, especially with a few inventive side dishes recipes BARNEY DESMAZERY photographs MYLES NEW

There’s nothing like the aroma of fish grilling outdoors to transport you back to holidays abroad or lazy lunches at beach shacks enjoying the catch of the day. Choosing whatever’s fresh is also key when planning a garden barbecue. That’s why the main recipe here is adaptable, depending on the

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whole fish available at your local shop. And, if you’re bothering to light a barbecue, you should make the most of it, so all the sides have been treated to a lick of smoke as well. Don’t worry if the British weather disappoints this summer – you’ll also find instructions here for cooking everything in the kitchen.


weekend

MENU Barbecued fish with lemon & rosemary Roasted red pepper & pesto dressing Two bean & herb salad Smoky new potatoes Simple strawberry mousse

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 89


Barbecued fish with lemon & rosemary

Roasted red pepper & pesto dressing

It’s worth investing in a fish cage if you’re a seafood lover, as this makes the process a lot easier. If you don’t own one, salt the fish skin heavily or cook it over slices of lemon.

Add texture to your meal by keeping this dressing chunky. But, if you prefer a smooth sauce, blitz everything together in a food processor.

SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 20 mins EASY

2 medium sea breams or sea bass (about 600g each), or 4 mackerel, scaled and gutted (remove the fins and heads, if you prefer) handful of rosemary sprigs 2 lemons, 1 finely sliced, 1 halved 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

1 Light the barbecue – you want an even layer of ashen embers for medium heat. If you have a gas barbecue, set it to medium. Season the fish cavities with salt and pepper, then stuff with most of the rosemary sprigs and lemon slices. Brush or rub the fish skin with the olive oil and season well with sea salt flakes. If you have a fish cage, lay the fish inside with the remaining lemon slices and rosemary sprigs and place on the grill. Alternatively, scatter the lemon slices and rosemary sprigs directly over the grill and lay the fish on top (see tip below for cooking indoors). 2 Cook the fish for 8-10 mins on each side until the skin is lightly charred and blistered, and the fish is cooked through. While it is cooking, put the lemon halves cut-side down on the grill and cook until char marks appear. Serve the fish drizzled with extra oil with the charred lemons for squeezing over. GOOD TO KNOW gluten free PER SERVING 425 kcals • fat 27g • saturates 6g • carbs 2g • sugars 1g • fibre 1g • protein 44g • salt 0.4g

rain or shine To cook the fish in the oven, heat to 220C/ 200C fan/gas 7. Lay the fish in a shallow roasting tin and bake for 20-25 mins until the skin has blistered and the fish is just cooked through. If you want to char the lemons as above, sear cut-side down in a dry frying pan over a medium-high heat.

SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V

3 red peppers 1 tsp pesto (vegetarian, if necessary) or a handful of basil leaves, shredded 4 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp red wine vinegar

1 While the coals of the barbecue are burning hot, char the peppers, turning frequently using metal tongs until blistered and evenly blackened (see tip below for charring indoors). Remove to a bowl, cover with a plate and set aside to cool completely – this will create steam, which softens the flesh and makes the skin easier to remove. 2 Gently rub the peels off the peppers and remove the seeds. Finely chop the flesh on a board, then scrape back into the bowl along with any juices. Mix in the pesto or basil, olive oil and vinegar, and season well. Can be made up to two days ahead and chilled until needed. Remove from the fridge 1 hr before serving. Spoon over the fish and veg. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 135 kcals • fat 12g • saturates 2g • carbs 5g • sugars 5g • fibre 3g • protein 1g • salt 0.03g

rain or shine Roast the peppers under a hot grill, in a griddle pan or directly over the flame of a gas hob until blistered and blackened.

Two bean & herb salad SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V

1 red onion 200g green beans or runner beans (or use a mixture), trimmed or sliced 400g can cannellini beans, drained and rinsed 3 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp lemon juice large handful of chopped soft herbs (parsley, dill, tarragon, basil and coriander work well, or use a mixture)

1 Use metal tongs to hold the onion over hot coals or char in a hot griddle pan until just blackened all over. Leave to cool completely, then peel away the

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outer blackened layer and finely chop the rest of the onion. You can also simply finely chop the onion without charring it first, if you prefer. 2 Cook the beans in a pan of boiling salted water for 4-5 mins until just cooked, with a slight snap. Drain and tip into a bowl with the onion, cannellini beans, olive oil and lemon juice. Season well, toss everything together and set aside until needed. This can be prepared several hours ahead and chilled. Stir in the herbs just before serving. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • fibre • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 169 kcals • fat 9g • saturates 1g • carbs 14g • sugars 4g • fibre 6g • protein 6g • salt 0.1g

Smoky new potatoes Cut the potatoes in half, keep them whole, or if you want them more thoroughly coated in the paprika butter, cut into thick slices and boil for slightly less time than stated here. SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins COOK 30 mins EASY V

800g new potatoes, halved ½ tsp smoked paprika 25g butter 1 small garlic clove, crushed

1 Tip the potatoes into a large pan of salted water and bring to the boil. Simmer for 5-8 mins until just cooked through, then drain. Return to the pan. 2 While the potatoes are still steaming, toss in the paprika, butter, crushed garlic and a large pinch of salt, then serve. Or, for added smokiness, tip the potatoes onto a large piece of foil or into a flameproof pan. Scrunch the foil to create a parcel that’s open at the top, then sit it on the side of the barbecue in indirect heat so the potatoes sizzle in the butter. If the barbecue has a lid, close it and cook the potatoes for 15-20 mins until starting to turn golden (this adds smoky flavour – don’t worry, the potatoes will not overcook), then serve from the parcel or pan. GOOD TO KNOW low fat • gluten free PER SERVING 177 kcals • fat 5g • saturates 3g • carbs 27g • sugars 2g • fibre 4g • protein 4g • salt 0.1g


weekend

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Simple strawberry mousse SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins plus 1 hr chilling NO COOK EASY V

400g strawberries 100g caster sugar 300ml double cream

1 Choose four of the best-looking strawberries and set these aside to finish the mousse, then hull and roughly chop the rest. Tip these into a blender or food processor along with the sugar and blitz until smooth. 2 Whisk the cream to stiff peaks. Reserve roughly 4 tbsp of the strawberry purée in a small dish, then fold the rest through the whipped cream until it turns an even shade of pink. Divide the reserved purée between four small serving glasses or ramekins. Spoon the mousse over the top, then chill for at least 1 hr. Will keep chilled for up to a day. Just before serving, halve the reserved strawberries and use these to decorate the mousse.

Barney is our skills & shows editor. He has worked as a chef in London, France and Australia and is a pro at adapting restaurant recipes to make at home. @barney_desmazery

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Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Food stylist LIBBY SILBERMANN | Stylist JENNY IGGLEDEN

GOOD TO KNOW folate • vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 460 kcals • fat 41g • saturates 25g • carbs 20g • sugars 20g • fibre 4g • protein 2g • salt 0.5g


weekend

SEASONAL

CELEBRATING COURGETTES Make the most of a summer glut with fresh ideas from Samuel Goldsmith, and tend to your crop with advice from Emma Crawforth of BBC Gardeners’ World photographs MOWIE KAY

A

nyone who’s grown their own courgettes knows how useful it is to have a plethora of recipes to call upon for using up a glut. A couple of plants should keep a family happily in courgette wonderland for the year, without the risk of never wanting to see or eat another one again. Courgettes contain a lot of moisture, which can be a great help in many recipes. However, when frying them, as in the curry on page 96, I scoop out the seeds to get a golden, nutty bite that’s not at all soggy in the middle. The seeds aren’t wasted though – I’ve added them in later to make the most of their flavour and moisture. If using baby courgettes, you can fry them without removing the seeds. Picking your courgettes earlier in the season means you’ll be rewarded with a tender, less bitter fruit that’s perfect in risottos or simply eaten raw.

The pakoras, also on page 96, are an ideal starter to serve ahead of the curry. The natural moisture of courgettes works with the gram flour to bind all the ingredients together (a tip I learned from cookbook writer and former Bake Off semi-finalist Chetna Makan). This helps keep the recipe simple, ruling out the need to squeeze out the liquid. The real beauty of courgettes, other than their glorious green colour, is that they take on flavour well, whether that’s spices, tangy marinades or citrus flavours, as in the cake on page 97. Combining grated courgette with pistachios and lime in a sweet and zesty sponge gives you a summer treat to serve when friends and family come to visit. There are lots more options for sweet bakes using courgettes at bbcgoodfood.com/ courgette-recipes, and even a courgette martini recipe.

Our food copy editor Samuel Goldsmith has taught food and nutrition in secondary schools and also worked as a food editor for lifestyle magazines such as Woman & Home. He’s an advocate for using local and seasonal produce. @samuelwgoldsmith

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Courgette curry, p96

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Courgette pakoras, p96

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G ROW YOU R OWN Scoop out the seeds before slicing and frying the courgettes to achieve a firmer texture in this curry. Nothing is wasted – the seeds bulk out the sauce when added towards the end of cooking. SERVES 4 PREP 20 mins COOK 40 mins EASY V

3 medium courgettes 2-3 tbsp sunflower oil 1 red onion, halved and finely sliced 1-2 red chillies (depending on your preference), finely chopped 40g ginger, peeled and finely grated 4 garlic cloves, finely grated 2 tsp garam masala 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground turmeric 400g can chickpeas, drained 400g can chopped tomatoes 400g can coconut milk cooked basmati rice, to serve

1 Trim the ends of the courgettes, halve them lengthways and, using a teaspoon, scrape out the watery

Courgette pakoras Moisture isn’t usually a friend when deep-frying anything, but here, the natural juices of the courgettes help bind all the ingredients together. MAKES 12-15 PREP 10 mins COOK 20 mins MORE EFFORT V

2 medium courgettes (about 500g), grated 1 red onion, grated 175g gram (chickpea) flour 1 red chilli, finely chopped 1 tsp each ground coriander, cumin and ginger ½ small bunch of coriander, finely chopped sunflower oil, for deep-frying coriander, tamarind or mango chutney, to serve (optional)

1 Put all the ingredients, except the oil, in a bowl with 1/2 tsp salt, and squidge it all together using your hands. The moisture from the courgettes should help bind everything together; you want a sticky but not overly wet mixture.

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seeds in the centre (it’s fine if you don’t get all of them). Roughly slice the courgette halves, then roughly chop the seeds and reserve for later. 2 Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat and fry the sliced courgettes until golden, about 8-10 mins. Remove from the pan, leaving the oil behind, then add the onion and a further tablespoon of oil if necessary, along with a good pinch each of salt and pepper. Fry for 6-8 mins until soft and just starting to turn a light brown, then tip in the chillies, ginger and garlic, and cook for 2 mins until starting to soften. Stir in the spices and cook for another 30 seconds. 3 Scatter in the chickpeas and pour in the tomatoes, coconut milk and reserved courgette seeds. Simmer over a medium-low heat for 10 mins before adding the courgettes back to the pan and cooking for a further 8-10 mins. Serve with basmati rice and sides of your choice. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • folate • fibre • vit c • iron • 3 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 389 kcals • fat 26g • saturates 16g • carbs 24g • sugars 11g • fibre 8g • protein 12g • salt 0.1g

2 Fill a heavy-based saucepan no more than a third full with oil and set over a medium heat until the oil reaches 180C. If you don’t have a cooking thermometer, test it’s ready by dropping in a pinch of the pakora mixture. It should sizzle and turn golden brown after 10-20 seconds. 3 Carefully drop tablespoons of the mixture into the oil, using another tablespoon to help you slide them in. Fry for about 2 mins before turning and cooking for a further 2-3 mins until golden brown, crisp and cooked through. Continue frying in batches until all the mixture has been used up. 4 Leave to drain on kitchen paper. You can keep the cooked pakoras warm in a low oven while you make the rest. Serve immediately with your favourite chutney, if you like. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING (15) 84 kcals • fat 4g • saturates 1g • carbs 8g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 3g • salt 0.2g

tip These pakoras go well with the runner bean chutney on page 16.

Emma Crawforth is a qualified horticulturist, trained at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, and is the gardening editor for BBC Gardeners’ World. This month, she gives advice on growing your own courgettes.

COURGETTES What should you look for when courgettes are ready? Harvesting is recommended when courgettes are about 10cm long. I leave them a little longer to get more flavour, but keep picking as the plants stop producing fruits if they are left on the bush. What time of year are they grown? Sow seeds in late spring and early summer. Plant out from late spring, but add protection from the cold with a fleece or a cloche in cooler regions. You can harvest from midsummer until autumn. Are there different varieties of courgettes? Courgettes range in colour, from bright yellow to very dark green, and can be sausage-shaped or round. The round ones can be used creatively in cooking, but I find the others easier to ripen. Yellow ones taste sweeter, and green have more of the almost-bitter taste. Try Black Beauty for prolific crops of very dark green fruits, and Golden Zucchini for yellow ones. How easy is it to grow your own? It’s easy to sow the large seeds in pots under cover or outdoors in summer. Plant out into fertile soil in a sunny spot and mulch around the plants with organic matter. Keep them moist, but avoid constantly damp soil as this will cause rot. Protect young plants from slugs and snails and look out for mildew on the leaves in late summer. What’s your favourite way to enjoy courgettes? I slice them up to fry in olive oil, which brings out the flavour. They can then be eaten hot or used as a very delicious salad ingredient.

Shoot director EMMA WINCHESTER | Food stylist ESTHER CLARK | Stylist AGATHÉ GITS

Courgette curry


weekend

Courgette & lime cake You won’t taste the courgettes in this loaf cake – mixing them into the batter creates a tender sponge that carries the citrus flavour and contrasts with the nutty topping. SERVES 12 PREP 15 mins COOK 50 mins-1 hr EASY V ❄ sponge only

200g light brown soft sugar 200ml vegetable or sunflower oil, plus extra for the tin 4 eggs 175g self-raising flour ½ tsp baking powder 75g shelled pistachios, ground 1 medium courgette (about 150g), grated 2 limes, zested and juiced For the frosting and decoration 275g soft cheese

100g icing sugar 1 lime, zested and juiced 25g shelled pistachios, roughly chopped

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Oil a 900g loaf tin and line with baking parchment. Combine the sugar, oil and eggs in a large bowl and mix well. Fold in the flour, baking powder and ground pistachios. Squeeze out as much moisture as you can from the grated courgette using your hands (don’t worry about squeezing out every drop), then add this to the bowl along with the lime zest and half the juice, and mix to combine. 2 Bake for 40-50 mins until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. Check the cake after 30 mins – if it’s looking too brown, cover with foil for the

remaining cooking time. Leave to cool in the tin for 20 mins, then transfer to a wire rack, poke a few holes in the top using a skewer and pour over the remaining lime juice. Leave to cool completely. Once cool, will keep frozen for up to a month. Defrost fully before decorating and serving. 3 For the frosting, tip the soft cheese into a bowl, sift over the icing sugar, pour in the lime juice and mix to combine. Spread this over the top of the cooled cake, then sprinkle with the chopped pistachios and lime zest. Will keep chilled in an airtight container for up to three days. PER SERVING (12) 433 kcals • fat 28g • saturates 6g • carbs 38g • sugars 26g • fibre 2g • protein 7g • salt 0.5g

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holidays

Scandinavia Culinary Stars cruise On this seven-night gourmet-themed Princess cruise, you’ll be joined by some of Britain’s best-loved chefs, John Torode, Matt Tebbutt and Rachel Allen

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art of the joy of travelling is discovering fantastic new cuisines, but just imagine if you didn’t have to wait to reach your destination before all the foodie fun began? Well, this Culinary Stars cruise promises to make that dream a reality. Princess always strives to offer exceptional dining experiences, but this Culinary Stars cruise takes things to the next level, offering something to tickle everyone’s tastebuds. You’ll sail round-trip from Southampton to beautiful Scandinavia on the luxurious Enchanted Princess, with an exciting, star-studded culinary line-up whipping up magic live in the kitchen for you along the way. The cruise will stop at foodie hotspots such as Oslo, Copenhagen and Skagen, and en route you can look forward to John Torode – best known

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as the straight-talking co-host and judge of BBC One’s MasterChef – sharing his passion for British produce and offering a fascinating insight into his illustrious career. Saturday Kitchen’s Matt Tebbutt will also be chatting about finding his calling in the world of food, and entertaining everyone with tales from his time spent in Wales at his awardwinning restaurant, The Foxhunter. And, Rachel Allen, TV chef, best-selling cookery writer and celebrated teacher at the world-famous Ballymaloe Cookery School in County Cork, will inspire you with her love of great food.

LIFE ON BOARD The treats don’t stop there, either. From the moment you step aboard Enchanted Princess, you’ll feel welcomed and completely at home.

Enjoy spectacular sweeping views from one of more than 1,400 balconies on the ship, and discover diversions for every mood while on board. From the tranquil Sanctuary – a retreat reserved especially for adults – to a variety of innovative new dining options, there’s something for everyone. Plus, at each destination, a host of thrilling excursions are ready and waiting, should the mood take you.*

Seven-night cruise from £599pp** departing 26 August 2022


WHAT’S INCLUDED ● Round-trip travel from Southampton,

departing 26 August 2022 ● Seven days’ accommodation in a

contemporary stateroom aboard the Enchanted Princess ● A star-studded line-up – John Torode, Matt Tebbutt and Rachel Allen – performing two cooking demos each ● A wide range of inclusive dining options throughout the ship, and

Exclusive offer for BBC Good Food readers

also speciality dining available at an additional cost ● Onboard activities and entertainment, from stargazing on the top deck and Movies Under the Stars, to original musical productions and a state-of-the-art casino ● A variety of exciting shore excursions available at an additional cost

Each booking will recieve a free copy of Rachel Allen’s cookbook Soup Broth Bread+

NORWAY

ITINERARY Day 1 Sail from Southampton Day 2 At sea Day 3 Norway Days 4-5 Copenhagen, Denmark Day 6 Skagen, Denmark Day 7 At sea Day 8 Return to Southampton

Oslo

Skagen North Sea

DENMARK

Copenhagen

ENGLAND

Southampton

TO BOOK

Call 0344 338 8671 or visit princess.com/themedcruises TERMS & CONDITIONS: *Excursions carry an additional cost. **Fares shown are subject to availability based on two adults sharing the lowest available grade within the stateroom type specified and include taxes, fees and port expenses. Prices and availability are correct at time of publishing and may go up or down. +To apply for your free book, please send proof of holiday booking to imagine@immediate.co.uk. Your booking is with Princess Cruises, ABTA V8764 ATOL 6294.

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 99


Don’t miss my new podcast TOM KERRIDGE

PASTRY PERFECTION Good Food Podcast host and chef Tom Kerridge shares his go-to pastry recipe for a classic British pud photograph HANNAH TAYLOR-EDDINGTON

W

hen it comes to pastry – and what chefs call the ‘pastry section’, or the baking side of the kitchen – you have to work in an extremely structured way, with little room for error. Don’t get me wrong: we have recipes for everything that we make in my kitchens. That’s how we keep things consistent. But, the building blocks of pastry mean that instructions must be closely followed. If you overcook

a piece of fish or meat, you can have another ready quickly and the customer will never know. But, get a pastry recipe wrong, and it’s crossed off the menu until the next day. Here, I’m sharing my foolproof sweet pastry recipe – it has enough butter to make it crumbly, but not so much that it’s hard to work with. I’ve used it to make one of my favourite traditional desserts: the bakewell tart.

When it comes to pastry, you have to work in an extremely structured way, with little room for error

Tom Kerridge is a well-known face on the BBC and chef-owner of acclaimed restaurants in Marlow, London and Manchester. Hear more from Tom on his favourite seasonal ideas in the latest series of the BBC Good Food Podcast at bbcgoodfood.com/podcast. @ChefTomKerridge

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Cherry bakewell tart, p102

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SERVES 12 PREP 40 mins plus 1 hr chilling COOK 1 hr 10 mins MORE EFFORT V

2 tbsp black cherry conserve or cherry jam 300g cherries, pitted 25g flaked almonds clotted cream, crème fraîche or vanilla ice cream, to serve For the pastry 200g plain flour, plus extra for dusting 100g ground almonds 50g golden caster sugar 150g cold butter, cut into cubes 1 egg, beaten For the frangipane filling 150g softened butter 150g golden caster sugar 150g ground almonds 2 eggs, beaten

1 First, make the pastry. Tip the flour, ground almonds, sugar and a pinch of salt into a bowl. Use your fingers to rub the butter in until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Drizzle in the egg, then slowly mix in up to 2 tbsp ice-cold water until it comes together into a dough. Shape into a disc, wrap and chill for 30 mins. Will keep chilled for two days. 2 For the filling, beat the butter and sugar together with an electric whisk

PER SERVING 495 kcals • fat 35g • saturates 14g • carbs 36g • sugars 22g • fibre 1g • protein 10g • salt 0.5g

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Subscribe AND DON’T MISS MY PODCAST SERIES Join Tom and guests sharing their experiences, tips and funny stories PLUS listen to the bonus Let’s Cook Together episodes and find out how to create inspiring dishes

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5 MORE IDEAS SWITCH UP THE FLAVOURS The pastry can be flavoured to suit the filling. For fruit tarts, you can add lemon, lime or orange zest, or for custard-based tarts, add a splash of vanilla extract. SUMMER BAKEWELL TART Follow the same methods for the pastry and frangipane filling, but adapt the tart with different seasonal fruits. Try using the same quantity of destoned and halved peaches, nectarines or apricots, or try raspberries or cored and sliced pears. QUICK ICING If you like, mix 3 tbsp icing sugar with 2 tsp lemon juice or water until you have a thick icing, then drizzle this over the cooled tart.

DEEPER NOTES For extra flavour, toast the flaked and ground almonds in a dry frying pan, then leave to cool before using. SAVOURY PASTRY For veggie tarts, make pastry using 150g butter, 300g plain flour, 1 beaten egg and a pinch of salt, then bring together as directed in step one. If the filling contains meat, I often swap half the butter for lard.

Stylist SARAH BIRKS

The amount of water the pastry needs will depend on how fresh the flour is. Make sure the water is ice-cold and add it gradually, just until the pastry comes together.

until combined. Add the ground almonds and eggs, then beat for 1 min more until you have a thick, spreadable paste. Will keep chilled for up to a day. Remove from the fridge an hour before needed. 3 Roll the pastry out on a lightly floured surface to the thickness of a £1 coin. Use it to line a 23cm fluted tart tin, leaving some overhanging the rim. Chill for another 30 mins or put in the freezer for 20 mins. 4 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/ gas 6. Prick the pastry case all over with a fork, then line with a large circle of baking parchment. Fill with baking beans and bake for 20 mins. Remove the beans and parchment, then bake for 10-15 mins more until the pastry is biscuity brown. Remove from the oven, trim off the excess using a serrated knife, then leave to cool slightly. 5 Spread the cherry conserve or jam over the base of the tart, then spoon in the frangipane filling and gently spread to the edges. Push the cherries into the filling slightly, then scatter over the flaked almonds. Bake for 45-50 mins until the cherries have sunken into the tart and the filling is deeply golden and set. Leave to cool completely in the tin, then remove to a serving plate or board and cut into slices. Serve with clotted cream, crème fraîche or a scoop of vanilla ice cream, if you like.

Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Food stylist LIBBY SILBERMANN

Cherry bakewell tart


weekend

M Y FAVO U R ITE D I S H

LEYLI HOMAYOONFAR’S

KHORESH-E GHORMEH SABZI Although she’s made her name with US-Mexican street-food brand Bab Haus in south Wales, Leyli’s favourite comfort food harks back to her Iranian roots words TONY NAYLOR recipe photograph JONATHAN GREGSON

L

eyli Homayoonfar is one of life’s irrepressible enthusiasts. The 36-year-old chef has worked in pro kitchens for almost two decades – in restaurants, cookery schools, developing supermarket recipes – and the creative ‘buzz’ of cooking is still ‘addictive’. It is, she says, ‘the only thing I really love’. Today, Leyli runs Bab Haus, a US-Mexican streetfood brand operating in Caerphilly and Barry, close to her native Cardiff. Inspired by the food of Los Angeles and Texas, Bab Haus is renowned for its low ’n’ slow smoked meats and birria tacos, made using ex-dairy beef. But, the original source of Leyli’s fascination with food lies not in America, but Iran. Leyli grew up in an Iranian-Welsh household obsessed with Persian food: ‘As a family, we’re known for cooking and parties, which was passed on to me with my friends.’ Prior to Bab Haus, a wildly successful lockdown pivot, Leyli ran Persian catering company Leyli Joon & Co (her younger twin sisters Sophia and Soraya work alongside her). Persian cooking is an aspect of her work she is now keen to revive, possibly under the Bab Haus umbrella. ‘Whatever is cooked over fire, that’s Bab Haus, basically,’ says Leyli. ‘At Easter, we did a Persian barbecue pop-up and it sold out. ‘In my family, everything revolves around food. Growing up, it was central to daily life. The house was regularly full of Iranian relatives and, as kids – there are four of us with our elder brother – we ate around the table every night, often with our extended family, sharing stories, gifts and suitcases of Persian dried fruits, nuts and saffron that people brought over for us. We loved it. ‘Both my parents are fantastic cooks. They’re from completely different backgrounds. Mum was one of 11 kids in a working class Irish family in Cardiff, ➜

Above: young Leyli with her Iranian grandmother Kobra

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weekend

while dad’s from a more upper-class Iranian background. Both their mums taught them how to cook – and mum developed a real passion for Persian cooking. Mum ‘We ate mainly Persian at home. Dad’s proud of his Iranian heritage and often his and dad stories revolved around food. I only speak had this a little conversational Farsi but, if it involves amazing food, I know what I’m talking about. repertoire ‘Salad Olivieh, a much-loved Iranian take on Russian salad, was a centrepiece at family of recipes parties. It’s potato salad with roast chicken, gherkins, carrots, peas, lemon, mayonnaise and boiled egg. Mum would make this for us instead of a birthday cake, decorated with gherkins and sliced tomatoes to make a flower pattern or spell out “Happy birthday”. At parties, friends still ask, “Has your mum done salad Olivieh?” ‘My family also loved a celebratory Persian barbecue with koobideh (kebabs of minced lamb and onion), saffron-andyogurt-marinated chicken joojeh, lavash flatbreads, charred tomatoes and onions, and steamed rice dressed with saffron butter. The dip, mirza ghasemi, is essential. It’s coal-roasted, charred aubergines that are peeled and cooked with tomatoes, saffron and garlic – my paternal grandmother, who as kids we called Nanny Irani, would put a whole bulb in. It’s on every Persian menu I do. Everyone loves it. ‘As kids, we all adored khorak-e morgh with morasa polo. Chicken thighs are roasted and braised with turmeric, saffron, cinnamon, butter, orange juice, garlic and shallots, and served with what’s called “jewelled rice” – baked rice studded with pistachios, almonds and barberries, cooked in a spiced butter made with orange peel and saffron. It’s sweet, tart, savoury and very pretty with the ruby red barberries, orange peel, rose petals and herbs. Generally, Persian food is a very aromatic, gently spiced cuisine, using lots of herbs and dried fruits. ‘My favourite dish – Iran’s national dish, too – is khoresh-e ghormeh sabzi, a broth-like stew of braised lamb shoulder with kidney beans, dried limes, fenugreek and fresh herbs. The citrus cuts the fat so it’s incredibly light and tasty. ‘When mum was pregnant with me, she was really craving khoresh-e ghormeh sabzi, but dad didn’t know how to make it. He had to ask friends over to prepare it, which took hours. Maybe that’s why it’s my favourite.’ babhausmex.co.uk @thebabhaus Above, from left to right: cooking at a supper club in Tonbridge, Kent; Leyli (blue jumper) with her family; cooking with her dad in Bruton, Somerset

#GFLetsCookTogether Share your recipes, tips and photos with us

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FIVE KEY PERSIAN INGREDIENTS Saffron

‘Used in so many dishes, from khoresh (stews) to desserts. But, don’t use too much. It’s expensive (historically, using saffron was a sign of wealth), and it can have an iron-y taste. A small pinch gently enhances a dish.’ Advieh

‘Like garam masala or Chinese five-spice powder, this is the standard Persian spice blend, made up of, among others, rose petals, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, cumin and coriander. It’s the base of many Persian dishes, but you might also sprinkle it over yogurt or gently warm it in butter and have that over rice.’ Barberries

‘If you go back to Tudor times, these small, tart berries were a British ingredient, too, but were, presumably, phased out as other berries took over. Barberries are huge in Iran, mainly in rice dishes. Cooked with sugar and orange peel, their sourness mellows into a lovely jammy flavour.’ Pistachios

‘Not being biased, I’d say Iran produces the best in the world: bright green, awesome flavour and used everywhere, from Persian candies to rice dishes.’ Sumac

‘A hugely popular, important ingredient. It’s a citrus berry akin to dried limes, used in various dishes as a lightly sour, lemony seasoning – often to cut through fatty meats.’


weekend

Khoresh-e ghormeh sabzi (Persian herb, red bean & lamb stew)

Shoot director RACHEL BAYLY | Food stylist AMY KINNEAR | Stylist JO HARRIS

Photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS

SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus 1 hr soaking COOK 3 hrs 30 mins MORE EFFORT

100g dried red kidney beans 3 tbsp vegetable oil (or other light oil) 4 lamb shoulder shanks (roughly 900g) 2 medium onions, chopped 1 tsp ground turmeric 6 Persian dried limes (available in some supermarkets and online) 100g coriander 400g parsley 1 leek, trimmed and finely chopped 11/2 tbsp dried fenugreek leaves (kasuri methi) 100g chives, finely sliced squeeze of lime juice, to taste (optional)

1 Put the dried red kidney beans in a heatproof bowl, cover with boiling water and leave to soak for 1 hr.

2 Heat a flameproof casserole over a medium-low heat for a few minutes before adding 2 tbsp oil. Season the lamb and sear on all sides until golden brown, then remove to a plate. Fry the onions over a low heat for 8-10 mins until soft and translucent. 3 Drain and rinse the soaked kidney beans, then add them to the onions along with the turmeric and dried limes. Stir to coat in the spiced oil, then return the lamb to the casserole. Pour over 1 litre water, or enough to cover the lamb, and bring to the boil. Cover with a lid, then turn down to a simmer. Leave the lamb to gently braise for 1 hr. 4 Put the coriander and parsley in a food processor and blitz to chop finely (you can also do this by hand, but the finer the herbs, the better the stew’s flavour and consistency). 5 In a separate frying pan over a medium heat, fry the leeks in the remaining 1 tbsp oil for 6-8 mins until softened. Stir in the fenugreek leaves, blitzed herbs and chives – it is sometimes easier to add these in

batches. Fry for 5 mins until the herbs are dark green (this removes moisture and deepens the flavour). 6 Once the lamb has braised for 1 hr, add the leek and herb mixture along with 250-500ml hot water to loosen, stirring well. Braise for a further 2 hrs, or until the lamb is completely tender and falling off the bone. Add a dash of hot water to loosen if the sauce has thickened too much – I prefer it to be almost broth-like, but that is personal preference. Season to taste (a good pinch or two of sea salt is essential) and, depending on the acidity from the dried limes, add a squeeze of lime juice for a fresh finish. GOOD TO KNOW healthy • calcium • folate • fibre • vit c • iron 4 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 627 kcals • fat 29g • saturates 8g • carbs 28g • sugars 8g • fibre 26g • protein 50g • salt 0.4g

tip Serve with thinly sliced red onions, chelo ba tahdig (steamed Persian saffron rice with tahdig crust) and maast-o museer (yogurt with Persian shallots, garlic and mint).

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Verdejo

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Verdejo, not to be confused with verdelho, is a grape from northern Spain historically used to make fortified wines. But in the 1970s, one producer made a crisp modern dry white from it – a sort of Spanish Sancerre. It was a revelation, delivering an explosion of aromatic, floral, fruity and nutty flavours, and is now considered one of Spain’s best whites.

Wine Club Star Cala Rey Verdejo Sauvignon 2020 Made with grapes grown on the high plains of Castil, this blend of the native Verdejo with French Sauvignon Blanc bursts with citrus flavours, rounded off by a creamy almond note. This would be lovely with a fresh Vietnamese rice noodle salad, or seafood paella.

Wine expert Henry Jeffreys, along with the BBC Good Food team, selects all of the wines on offer to BBC Good Food readers. Henry writes about wine for The Guardian and The Spectator, and on his blog, worldofbooze.wordpress.com. He’s also a judge in the Best Drinks Producer category for the BBC Food and Farming Awards. His book, The Home Bar (£25, Jacqui Small), is out now.

Need to know

Tasting notes

Verdejo is thought to have come from North Africa, brought over by Moorish conquerors in the 11th century. It’s grown all over Castile-Leon in central Spain, but it’s particularly well-known for the wines it produces in Rueda. Originally, the grape was used to make a sherry-esque wine, but the Rioja producer Marqués de Riscal pioneered the modern style in the 1970s. To unleash those big aromatic flavours, the grapes are harvested at night to maintain freshness, protected from oxygen contact, then fermented at a low temperature. A wine labelled Rueda Verdejo must be a least 85% Verdejo. It’s often blended with Sauvignon Blanc (see left) – in fact, the flavour of the grape is like a more exotic Sauvignon Blanc – and sometimes with Macabeo (also known as Viura), a fairly neutral Spanish grape.

Verdejo has grassy herbal flavour not unlike Sauvignon Blanc, but often with notes of satsuma, lemon, fennel and almonds, and often, a pronounced acidity. The old-school fortified style is a bit like sherry, but some producers are now ageing it in oak barrels and stirring lees (the dead yeast cells), which builds texture and develops flavours of nuts and sometimes honeysuckle. Young, crisp Verdejo tastes best cold, whereas richer examples should be served a little warmer. Verdejo pairs well with goat’s cheese, tomato and shellfish, and those big aromatic types make it a great partner for Vietnamese and Thai food. The high acidity matches well with battered fish, as it cuts through the fat. Richer examples are a great substitute for white Burgundy, and go well with buttery dishes and poultry.

A wine for every dish Ever wondered which white wine to match with roast chicken? Or curious as to the best reds for steak night? Get clued-up with Henry’s tasting notes and recipe pairings for a range of wines and impress your friends. Find out more at bbcgoodfood.com/wineclub.

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Wine case photograph DAVID COTSWORTH

Each month Henry Jeffreys showcases a new grape variety – this month, Verdejo. Plus, get a great deal on a case of summer whites


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What’s in the box? Spain’s Cala Rey (see far left) blends lime-fresh Sauvignon Blanc and Verdejo. La Chiamata is a thrilling Trebbiano from Italy’s Abruzzo region, full of crisp citrus, pear and apple flavours – a great apéritif. Bob Berton’s All Out Viognier is an Aussie favourite bursting with peach, melon and nectarine notes. Serve it cold at a barbecue alongside chargrilled king prawns. Colle Marianna Soave offers delicately nuanced fruit, creamy body and a stony freshness that will see it age gracefully – if you can wait. The master winemaker behind it,

Antonio Fattori, recommends serving it with seafood linguine. There’s also a glorious new find from South Africa, a nation in fine form: Excelsior Wild Ferment Chardonnay is slow-fermented using wild yeast, giving bright lemon and mineral aromas, and expressive flavours of peach and bright citrus. McPherson Charlie’s Block Marsanne rounds off the case with ripe, round, tropical fruitiness. A cracking collection that also comes with a free pair of Dartington wine tumblers to help you serve your wines in style.

 Six bottles for £41.94  Just £6.99 a bottle  Save £27 on the case (usually £68.94)  FREE pair of Dartington tumblers  FREE delivery (usually £7.99)  100% money-back guarantee

To order your case online, go to bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com/bbcjulwine Or call 03300 242 855 and quote code 5082001 Terms & conditions (including offer closing date) BBC Good Food Wine Club wines are supplied and delivered by Laithwaites. Offer valid for new customers only, one six-bottle case and two glasses only per household. No further discount or offers can be applied. Free standard delivery, usually £7.99. Delivery to UK only (excluding CI and BFPO). Offer ends 30 September 2022 or while stocks last. 18+ only. All goods are subject to availability and all orders are subject to acceptance by Laithwaites. If a wine becomes unavailable, a substitute of similar style and of equal or greater value will be supplied. Order acceptance and the contract between Laithwaites is formed on despatch of products. Savings based on individual bottle price. See bbcgoodfoodwineclub.com/terms for full terms and conditions, and the privacy policy. Registered in England and Wales. Registered Number 1095091. One Waterside Drive, Arlington Business Park, Theale, Berkshire, RG7 4SW. Unless otherwise stated, all wines contain sulphites.

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A sweet escape Made with fresh cream, butter and a whole lot of love, Wertherís Originals are perfect for adding a little piece of warmth to your day

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et’s face it, sometimes life can feel like an endless to-do list. So, it’s important to take time to enjoy the little things and press pause every once in a while. Happily, there’s a Werther’s for that. Between the irresistibly oozy Creamy Filling, the wonderfully chewy Creamy Toffee and the classic Butter Candy, there’s a Werther’s Original for everyone and every occasion. Why not try them all and see which long-lasting caramel is your favourite? Of course, enjoying a Werther’s moment is just the start. Here are some other ways you can make your day feel that little bit more heart-warming…

COOK WITH A LOVED ONE Be it your partner or a grandchild, cooking is a great way to connect with those you love. From choosing a recipe to the creation – with all the funny mishaps along the way – you can be sure time spent in the kitchen with somebody special will make your day feel better.

TRY A TOTALLY NEW RECIPE If you’re a passionate foodie, nothing will bring you joy quite like trying out a new dish, so why not add something new to your weekly cooking repertoire? If you need inspiration, try the tempting Werther’s Original brownies recipe (see above) that can be found via the QR code and URL below.

GROW YOUR OWN INGREDIENTS You’ll be amazed at the satisfaction you can get from growing your own ingredients, and you don’t need a huge garden to do it. Tomatoes, salad leaves and herbs can all be grown indoors, while foods like strawberries and radishes can be easily grown in pots on a balcony.

MAKE YOUR FAVOURITE COMFORT FOOD DISH It might be an indulgent bowl of pasta that’s rich in cream and parmesan, or a delicious family bake that takes you back to your youth in just one bite. Whatever it is, everybody has a dish that’s sure to put a smile on their face. Make yours tonight – go on, you deserve it.

CREATE YOUR OWN CHEFíS PLAYLIST For many of us, cooking can feel like a form of creative expression. So, why not take the experience up a notch by curating your very own foodie playlist? Or perhaps you’d rather unwind with a podcast in the background? Whichever you choose, it should be uplifting and maybe even offer you a slice of mindfulness.

For more warmth inspiration, or to find delicious Werther’s recipes, visit bit.ly/ werthers-unwind or scan the QR code


Supermarket Drinks Awards 2022 Our annual taste test to find the best supermarket spirits, ciders and beers for summer words and adjudication LUCY ROXBURGH photographs HANNAH TAYLOR-EDDINGTON

Also in the opinion section

Make it at home

We test a recipe from José Pizarro’s new cookbook, p118

Count your chickens

How fried chicken became a global favourite, p114

The latest cookbooks A round-up of July’s top releases, p119

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 109


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his is our ultimate guide to stocking your drinks cupboard this summer – and these bottles all come straight from the high street. Whether you prefer spirits, beer or cider, we’ve found the best supermarket offerings for every occasion. BEST SESSION BEER HOW WE DID IT

We asked supermarkets to send in the drinks they wanted to nominate for each of our categories. Over three days, our expert judging panel taste-tasted 70 products from eight national supermarkets to bring you our definitive list of top buys for 2022. Judging was carried out blind and overseen by an independent adjudicator. In some categories, the judges chose to award a runner-up as well as a winner – for the full results, visit bbcgoodfood.com.

WINNER Northern Monk Striding Edge North Yorkshire £2.75 (440ml can), Waitrose & Partners Conjuring up thoughts of beer gardens in the sunshine, this has punchy, tropical fruit aromas. Lush fruit gives way to pine and citrus notes.

BEST CIDER

BEST FRUIT CIDER OR PERRY

WINNER M&S Somerset oak matured vintage cider £2.50 (500ml bottle) With baked Bramley apple and leather on the nose, this is pleasantly complex and equally loaded with both sweetness and bitterness.

WINNER Tesco pear cider £2.20 (four 440ml cans) Gentle and floral on the palate, this is sharp and dry, with a hint of sweetness and subtle white grape aromas.

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opinion

BEST WHISKY JOINT WINNER Asda Extra Special Islay single malt Scotch whisky £20 (70cl) Our pick for sipping neat, this has a deeply smoky aroma, slick mouthfeel and lots of woody, toasted oak flavours. JOINT WINNER Waitrose three-year-old blended Scotch whisky £13.29 (70cl) Good for cocktails, this has a light aroma and brown sugar flavours, balanced by slight bitterness.

BEST VODKA WINNER Waitrose triple-distilled vodka £12.75 (70cl) This is very smooth, with a creamy mouthfeel and no burn. A good one for cocktails.

BEST DARK RUM WINNER Co-op Irresistible pineapple rum spirit drink £20 (70cl) A winner for the second year in a row, this has light brown sugar on the nose and hints of tropical fruit led by the pineapple. It’s smooth and mellow to sip, with mild spiciness.

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BEST READY-TO-DRINK TROPICAL COCKTAIL JOINT WINNER M&S The Marksologist Passion Star martini cocktail £19.30 (500ml) A bottled option in great packaging. Shake well to bring together – it’s vibrant and sweet, with strong fruit flavour to balance the alcohol. JOINT WINNER Aldi Stefanoff passion fruit martini 89p (250ml can) Lots of passion fruit flavour and not too fizzy, this makes for an easy-to-sip canned choice.

BEST READY-TO-DRINK BERRY COCKTAIL WINNER M&S strawberry daiquiri £2 (250ml can) Vanilla notes are clear on the nose here. It’s lightly syrupy, with just a touch of lime to balance the berry intensity.

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BEST READY-TODRINK CITRUS COCKTAIL WINNER Asda Extra Special margarita readyto-drink cocktail £8 (70cl) This has plenty of sharpness from juicy lemons and limes to counter the sweetness – great with lots of ice and fresh mint.


opinion

BEST GIN

BEST PINK GIN

BEST FLAVOURED GIN

WINNER Tesco Finest The Melodist London Dry gin £20 (70cl) This has plenty of herbal, spiced notes (thanks to the coriander and cardamom) that stand up to fresh botanicals. A touch of citrus comes through when tonic is added.

WINNER Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference limited edition Blackfriars Scottish raspberry & rhubarb gin £16 (70cl) With heady rhubarb aroma, judges loved that this wasn’t too sweet. Tonic enhances the fruit flavour and botanicals still shine through in this well-balanced drink.

WINNER Tesco Finest The Melodist mango & passion fruit gin £20 (70cl) A surprisingly elegant option, this smells sweet, but when mixed with tonic, floral notes come through along with classic botanicals.

BEST READY-TO-DRINK G&T WINNER Tesco London Dry gin & tonic £1 (250ml can) A classic G&T done well, this is refreshing, crisp and natural.

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Melissa Thompson

How fried chicken took

Our columnist charts its history and creates her own version inspired by the multicultural cooks

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here’s no doubt that the ubiquity of fried chicken shops on the UK’s high streets – be they fronted by a moustachioed colonel or not – has dented the dish’s reputation. But, it’s still one of my favourite foods – a dish of such skill and renown, it has traversed the world, reflecting the myriad tastes and regional variations of different lands. That’s why I wanted to make my new video series, The Stories Behind Fried Chicken (watch at bbcgoodfood.com/friedchicken), to delve into the fascinating history and cultural importance of it. The exact point of origin is unknown, but it’s likely an evolution of tastes and influences that combined over centuries. The most famous iteration, southern fried chicken, takes its name from the southern states of America, where black domestic workers – first enslaved, then in employment – perfected a dish

American chef Edna Lewis helped define southern fried chicken

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BAO Noodle Shop in Shoreditch, London, serves Taiwanese fried chicken buns (below)

that some believe has roots in the Scottish settlers that went to the Americas. Early records show that chicken was deep-fried in Scotland, and could have made its way to the US, where it was cooked by enslaved people from West and Central Africa. After emancipation, free black women earned a living selling fried chicken to train passengers in Virginia – they were known as ‘waiter carriers’, as they literally carried the food to the stations. Fried chicken was seasonal, too, cooked in spring when chickens were tender, as described by the late American chef Edna Lewis, who grew up in Freetown in Virginia. Edna described fried chicken as a ‘very special dish’ made with birds that were

‘hand-raised’, ‘specially fed’ and produced ‘only once a year in late spring through to early summer’. Hers is a pared-back recipe by modern standards, with just salt and pepper for seasoning. But, she fries the chicken in pork lard and butter with smoked ham, giving the chicken an incredible flavour. But, rather than be revered for their culinary skill, black people were mocked with racist tropes


opinion

over the world she met while filming her new Good Food video series

A good fried chicken recipe is worth the effort

Melissa’s recipe (overleaf) takes inspiration from chefs she’s talked to

Colombian fried chicken at La Barra in London

Today, there are so many iterations, there are few places on Earth that don’t have their own version

about their relationship to fried chicken. Alongside this, whiteowned businesses started making their own fried chicken, leading to a disgraceful double standard. Today, there are so many iterations, there are likely few places on Earth that don’t have their own version. Chicken coated in seasoned flour forms the basis for southern fried chicken and much of what’s enjoyed in the Caribbean. Some now brine it too, increasing moistness and allowing flavour to penetrate deeper. Soy sauce, mirin, aromatics and potato starch make Japanese chicken karaage. Taiwanese fried chicken is flavoured in delicious things, then coated in sweet potato flour for crunch. Yangnyeom, a Korean fried chicken recipe, is double-fried and glazed with gochujang sauce. There’s also ayam goreng in

Malaysia and Brazil’s frango à passarinho. London, where I live, is home to many interpretations. In the first episode of my video series, I visit Bao Noodle Bar in Shoreditch, where co-founder Erchen Chang double-fries chicken that’s been marinated in soy milk and flavourings. La Barra, a Colombian restaurant in Elephant and Castle, serves mouth-watering Dominican pica pollo. Keshia Sakarah of Caribe’ in Brixton coats her brined chicken

in a mixture of flour and cornmeal. They’re dishes that share similar roots but are very different, crafted and influenced by cultures around the world – a mirror of the environments and ingredients of where they were created. My fried chicken recipe, overleaf, is based on the brilliant chefs who allowed me to see their secrets. It takes time and requires you to start it off the day before, but as I’ve learned, a good fried chicken recipe is worth the effort.

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 115


opinion

Try my recipe Fried chicken This is my favourite method for cooking fried chicken. I leave the lid on to both steam and fry the chicken at the same time.

Recipe photograph MYLES NEW | Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Food stylist LIBBY SILBERMANN | Stylist JENNY IGGLEDEN

SERVES 4 PREP 30 mins plus 6 hrs brining and overnight marinating COOK 30 mins (or longer if frying in batches) MORE EFFORT

80g salt 1 whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces (or 4 chicken legs, split into drumsticks and thighs) 4 garlic cloves, loosely crushed in their skins 10 thyme sprigs 2 bay leaves 4 spring onions, chopped 1 scotch bonnet pepper, cut in half 200ml buttermilk (or plain yogurt mixed with the juice of 1 lemon) 1 tbsp smoked paprika 1 tbsp white pepper 1 tbsp onion powder 1 tbsp garlic powder 1 tsp cayenne pepper 200g plain flour vegetable oil, for deep-frying

1 Dissolve the salt in 200ml hot water, then top up with cold water to make 2 litres. When the water has cooled completely, submerge the chicken in it. Add half the garlic, the thyme, bay, spring onions and scotch bonnet, then keep chilled for 6 hrs. 2 Combine the buttermilk with half the spices and the remaining garlic in a large bowl. After 6 hrs, drain the chicken and add to the bowl with the spiced buttermilk. Chill overnight. 3 The next day, mix the flour with the remaining spices. Fill a deep pan with a few centimetres of oil (you want the oil to come halfway up the chicken while frying it). Heat to 160C, or test it by dropping in a cube of bread. It’s ready for cooking when the bread browns within 30 seconds. 4 Tip the spiced flour into a large shallow bowl. Remove the chicken from the buttermilk, shaking off the excess, and turn it in the flour to evenly coat. Set aside on a plate while you finish coating all the chicken (this helps the flour stick

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during cooking). When the oil is ready, carefully lower in the chicken using tongs (you may need to do this in batches). Cover with a lid and fry for 8 mins, then turn the chicken and cover again. Watch closely – make sure the oil maintains a gentle bubble. If it gets too hot, remove the lid or leave it ajar. If you have a gas hob, turn the heat off before removing the lid, then turn the heat back on after replacing the lid. 5 Cook for another 8 mins, then remove the chicken to a plate. Turn up the heat until the oil reaches 180C (or test using the bread cube method in step 3), then return the chicken to the pan and fry for 3 mins on each side until golden and crispy. If using a temperature probe, the chicken should be at 70C. If not, cut into one of the bigger pieces and ensure the juices run clear. Transfer to a wire rack to drain and keep crisp. Season with sea salt, then serve hot. PER SERVING 647 kcals • fat 31g • saturates 9g • carbs 36g • sugars 2g • fibre 2g • protein 54g • salt 1.1g

Watch our new three-part series, The Stories Behind Fried Chicken with Melissa on our BBC Good Food YouTube channel. You’ll also find a wealth of recipes and skills guides.


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Cookbook challenge

The Spanish Home Kitchen by José Pizarro

Editor Keith Kendrick gets nostalgic with the acclaimed Spanish chef’s new cookbook

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Recipe adapted from The Spanish Home Kitchen by José Pizarro (£27, Hardie Grant). Photographs by Emma Lee.

n his introduction, José Pizarro neatly sums up how so many of us feel about cooking: ‘It is so much about memories. I love people, and creating moments of happiness together is why I love to cook.’ And there is no doubt that the recipes – and the stories behind them – in Spanish Home Kitchen will inspire you to create new memories of your own. José, of course, is famous for his tapas restaurants and TV appearances. But, as much as he thrives on the ‘adrenaline’ of his professional life, he also loves ‘cooking more quietly at home for friends and family’. This book

takes you on a journey via his passions for vegetables, fish and seafood, meat and sweets. I was particularly drawn to the seafood chapter for the memories it evoked of fishing with my dad when I was little, and of the crabbing fun I had with my own sons holidaying in Northumberland. José says, ‘Memories of fishing with my dad are forever etched in my mind. My village in rural Spain is located near a long, beautiful winding river called the Tajo, and we would often fish there together.’ I decided to try José’s crab canelones (cannelloni). It’s inspired by José and his partner Peter’s craving for their favourite

Crab canelones

For the béchamel sauce 45ml olive oil 45g plain flour 500ml fresh shellfish or chicken stock 300ml double cream grating of nutmeg 80g finely grated manchego cheese, plus extra for sprinkling For the filling 60ml olive oil 1 small shallot, finely chopped 2 red chillies, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, finely sliced 50g brown crabmeat 500g ripe tomatoes, finely chopped 150ml shellfish or chicken stock 500g white crabmeat 15g tarragon, finely chopped 250g dried cannelloni pasta tubes

the oil in a pan over a medium heat. Add the flour and cook for 1-2 mins, then gradually stir in the stock until you have a smooth, thick sauce. Stir in the cream, grate in some nutmeg, add the cheese and season. Set aside. 2 For the filling, heat the oil in a separate pan over a low heat. Fry the shallot, chillies and garlic for 15 mins. 3 Increase the heat to medium-high, add the brown crabmeat and fry for 1 min, then add the tomatoes and stock. Cook for 12-15 mins, then take off the heat. Stir in the white crabmeat and tarragon. Season. 4 Cook the cannelloni in a pan of boiling water for 3 mins, then drain and cool under running water. 5 Put a spoonful of the crab filling into each of the tubes, then transfer the tubes to an ovenproof dish. Pour over the béchamel, scatter over the extra cheese, then bake for 25-30 mins until golden and bubbling. Serve with a green salad.

1 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/ gas 5. To make the bechamel, heat

PER SERVING 762 kcals • fat 52g • saturates 23g • carbs 40g • sugars 5g • fibre 4g • protein 31g • salt 1.2g

SERVES 6 PREP 15 mins COOK 1 hr EASY

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pasta dish, crab linguine. They were delicious – straightforward to make and packed with crab, chilli, garlic and parsley, and smothered with manchego cheese. But, each chapter showcases gems that mean so much to José. Girolle & walnut croquetas take José back to his dad’s vegetable garden where ‘walnuts were a type of candy to me’; golden lamb cutlets with lemon courgette salad is a favourite of his mum’s; and doughnut-like cardamom & orange repápalos have been perfected over the years by José’s sister, Isabel. It’s food to inspire new memories and, as José says, ‘Memories make happiness.’

GOOD TO KNOW calcium • 1 of 5-a-day


opinion

s k o o c r o f s k o Bo What Fiona Forman is cooking this month h

13 Foods that Shape our World (£16.99, BBC Books) In the first book from BBC Radio 4’s hit series The Food Programme, award-winning writer Alex Renton delves into the stories behind key staples, including bread, dairy, salt and cocoa. An interesting insight into the history of these foods, this is a great book for bedtime reading. You’ll pick up cooking tips along the way, too, including how to make the perfect roast chicken and buy the best olive oil.

MUST-TRY RECIPE Spaghetti alla san Giovanni

Recipe image JOE WOODHOUSE

Home Food by Olia Hercules (£26, Bloomsbury Publishing, out 7 July) This book is a personal collection of comforting recipes from all the places Olia has called home – Ukraine, Cyprus, Italy and the UK. A wonderful mix of cuisines, there are fascinating stories and memories behind each dish, from nostalgic childhood favourites – including sunshine broth, a healing soup made by her mother whenever she was ill – to life-giving rhubarb crumble cake eaten the day after she’d given birth to her son. I’ll be starting out with her family’s favourites, including her twists on midweek salads, Sunday roasts and pastas. There are QR codes on some of her favourite recipes linking to videos of Olia demonstrating some of the trickier techniques, including how to roll dumplings, which are very handy.

West Winds by Riaz Phillips (£25, DK) Most of us think of jerk chicken and Notting Hill Carnival when we think of Caribbean food, but food writer Riaz Phillips wants to show it’s so much more than that. There are vegan stews, meat curries, raw salads, soups and plenty of dishes made with staple ingredient, plantain. His colourful, exciting recipes are perfect for summer. Must-try recipe Curry vegetables

MORE FROM BBC GOOD FOOD On your tablet Download our interactive app at the Apple App Store. Good Food how-to videos Sharpen your cookery skills with our videos. Find over 200 at bbcgoodfood. com/feature/videos.

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Vegetarian Summer magazine Enjoy al fresco meals and the season’s best produce with meat-free dishes that will please everyone, £6.99.

cast

Tune in for lively chats with the Good Food team, Tom Kerridge and Britain’s best and brightest in food.

AVAILABLE AT bbcgoodfood.com/podcast

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Best buys

Junior food & reviews writer Maga Flores-Trevino rounds up the best accessories to kit out your kitchen

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Microplane premium classic zester and grater £21.95, hartsofstur.com Use this sleek stainless steel grater to create fluffy mountains of Parmigiano-Reggiano or fine curls of citrus zest. The colourful soft-touch handle enables a firm grip and makes it easy to spot in a sea of utensils.

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San Raphael Wild Flower plate £17, arket.com Serve up delicious salads and reveal a beautiful flower etching beneath to your guests. This Portuguese-crafted plate has stunning details and can be left out on display as a decorative piece when not in use.

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Eddington food cover £5.50, Fenwick Dotted with pretty little strawberries, this collapsible food cover is a necessary addition

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to a picnic or camping trip. Use it to keep unwanted bugs away from your food and bring a touch of British summertime style to your festivities. Pebbly magnetic toaster tongs £8, divertimenti.co.uk These elegant tongs are thin enough to reach into the depths of your toaster without burning your fingers. Plus, they have a handy magnetic handle that lets you store them on the side of your toaster or microwave.

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Zoku Mod Pops ice lolly moulds £14.99 (set of six), John Lewis & Partners Fill these lolly moulds with a smoothie or lemonade to give the family an easy and refreshing summer treat. Each mould is compact and has a sturdy base that will sit securely in your freezer without spilling.

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Fern cork tray £24, loveliga.co.uk Made from cork harvested once every nine years without felling trees, this elegant tray continues absorbing carbon dioxide even in your home. Use it to serve snacks or breakfast.

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Ichendorf Milano duck glass jug £50, vam.ac.uk Featuring a charming 3D model duck, this hand-blown, Italian-crafted glass jug will be a talking point with guests. Fill it with sparkling wine or lemonade for a bubbly pond effect.

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Dipping bowls £8 each, aeyglom.com Perfect for serving dips, oils or vinaigrettes, these pastel-coloured bowls have a white interior to let your sauces shine. They could also work for holding tea lights at the table.

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opinion

Food picks

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Pasties by Post by Prima Bakery £16.95 (pack of three), thecornishhamperstore.co.uk Made from thick shortcrust pastry with a tasty filling of skirt steak, potato, swede and onions, these pasties from the heart of Cornwall are delivered direct to your door. Ideal for a quick lunch or picnic.

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Häagen-Dazs Duo vanilla hazelnut & caramel crunch £5.25 (420ml), Waitrose & Partners Made with real cream, this two-inone tub has vanilla ice cream with chocolate shards on one side and caramel ice cream with salted caramel sauce and roasted hazelnut pieces on the other. Serve in a cone for a summer treat.

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M&S Collection labneh yogurt dip £2.65 (170g), M&S A basil and mint dressing tops this incredibly thick and creamy strained yogurt, which is finished off with a sprinkling of za’atar. Use pittas for dipping or serve alongside barbecued meats for a luxuriously tangy side.

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Bonne Maman Sweet Hearts chocolate £2.50 (175g), Waitrose & Partners A vanilla cake with a soft madeleine texture and a layer of smooth chocolate, these heart-shaped snacks are individually wrapped, so they’re great for packed lunches.

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Words MAGA FLORES-TREVINO

THIS isn’t pork caramelised onion sausages £2.95 (230g), Tesco From acclaimed purveyor of meat substitutes THIS come these hearty, plant-based sausages that are succulent, with a compact texture that’s fairly close to real meat. They have a slightly sweet caramelised onion flavour that doesn’t overwhelm. Pip & Nut Crosstown Cinnamon Scroll almond butter £3.25 (170g), pipandnut.com Inspired by Crosstown’s Cinnamon Scroll doughnut, this spread has gentle spice and richness. There’s a hint of vanilla and coconut that cuts through the nuttiness of the almond. Spread it over warm toast, or swirl into brownies.

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Book Early Bird Tickets

24-27 November 2022 NEC Birmingham Entertainment | Tasting Shopping | Inspiration

A taste of the festive season Winter may feel like a long way off, but It’s never too early to start planning your festivities, and this is one date that should be on every food lover’s calendar. Enjoy a day out jam-packed with our fabulous

line-up of top chefs and experts cooking live, the best British artisan producers, your favourite big brands, the return of our popular Tasting Theatre and hands-on workshops. Don’t forget those

extra-large shopping bags for all the mouth-watering food to taste, try and buy. You won’t be disappointed! For a limited time enjoy our 25% early bird saving on tickets – visit the website and book today!

Book your early bird tickets before 31 July and save 25%*– quote GF25 With thanksyour to our Book tickets today and save XX%*– quote GFRX | bbcgoodfoodshow.com sponsors and supporters: ** Subscribers save 20% using your unique 10-digit number when booking Product supplier and Festive Kitchen Show Big Kitchen sponsor

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Did someone say VIP?

The cooking stars you won’t want to miss We guarantee you won’t be disappointed by this year’s Big Kitchen lineup! We’re delighted to announce the return of Ainsley Harriot – with his big personality and fun in the kitchen, be prepared to be entertained! Also joining us are Lisa Faulkner and John Torode, and returning are the fabulous Nadiya Hussain and James Martin to name a few. Check the website for more announcements coming soon.

Add a little bit of sparkle to your day with one of our VIP tickets. This is your time to be treated like royalty or treat that special someone with a day out to remember. In between all the shopping and entertainment, you can sit back and relax in your very own VIP lounge with a glass of bubbles or enjoy front-row seats to see your favourite chef cooking live. You also have lots of additional benefits, including your own cloakroom, breakfast pastries, shopping bag, show guide and cookbook. Book your VIP tickets today!

It’s game time

Meet the finest artisan producers Fill those shopping bags with the very best artisan delights, from handmade savoury delicacies, to sweet treats and artisan tipples. We have drinks brand Solassa joining us for the first time, showcasing its lower-alcohol alternative spirits, and Show favourite Puckett’s Pickles, joining us again from Yorkshire and certainly one not to miss. No day is complete without a gooey caramel brownie – pop over to Northern Brownies to pick up a box to share with friends (unless you eat them all first).

Good food. Good friends. Game on. Let’s get cooking with the sponsor of the Festive Kitchen, Eat Game. Returning to the Show, Eat Game will be serving up a selection of festive showstoppers. Take a seat in this free theatre and get ready to discover a whole host of alternatives to traditional Christmas meats…who knows, you may even find a new centrepiece.

Subscribers save 30%** using your unique 10-digit number when booking | bbcgoodfoodshow.com *15% off valid on standard 1-day general admission tickets. Ends 26/08/21. **Subscribers save 20% on standard general admission tickets when using their unique subscriber number. Ends 28/11/21. Offers exclude Saturday. £3.50 transaction fee per e-ticket order and £4.50 per postal ticket order. Not all celebrities appear on all days. VIP tickets subject to availability. Details correct at time of print. The BBC *25% discount is validof onthe standard general admission Excludes **Subscribers save 30% onImmediate standard general when using their uniqueand subscriber number. Excludes VIP.Events Offer ends 31/07/22. logo is a trademark BBC. © BBC. The Good tickets. Food trade markVIP. is used under licence from Mediaadmission Companytickets London Limited. Organised presented by River Street at Immediate £3.95 fee per order. NotFood all celebrities on allcancelled days. Details at time of print. The BBC logo is a trademark the BBC. BBC. Good Foodoftrademark is used under licenceHealth from Media.transaction †In the event thate-ticket the BBC Good Show is appear postponed, or correct River Street Events and Immediate Media deem itofunsafe to © run the The event in light UK Government and Public Immediate Media Company London Limited. Organised and presented by Immediate Live.toImmediate Liveyour is the trading to name of Upper Events Ltdaand River Street Events Ltd. These businesses are owned by England guidelines regarding Covid-19, you will be contacted directly with regards transferring booking a future dateStreet or requesting refund. Immediate Media Company Limited. Please note: refunds exclude the transaction fee and See Tickets Refund Protection cost.


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B O O ST YO U R

cooking skills Get confident in the kitchen with tips and advice from the Good Food team THIS MONTH

Watch our skills videos at bbcgoodfood.com/videos We love to see what you’re making, too: share your recipes on our BBC Good Food Together Facebook page and on Instagram #wearebbcgoodfood

How to make madeleines, p126

Spice up a margarita, p132

Pick the best BBQ cuts, p134

L E V E L T X NE A V O L V A P R E SUMM eringue

ke crisp m Find out how to machew y centre, p128 with a satisfyingly

A spotlight on triple-cream cheeses, p131

& Five of the best pizza ovens, p130

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 125


WEEKEND PROJECT

Madeleines MAKES 8 PREP 10 mins COOK 15 mins EASY V

50g butter, melted then cooled slightly, plus extra for the mould 1 egg 50g caster sugar 1 tsp honey 50g self-raising flour

1 Heat the oven to 210C/190C fan/ gas 6 and brush eight holes of a madeleine tin with melted butter (if you have a six-hole tin, you’ll need to bake in two batches). Beat the egg with the sugar and honey using an electric whisk until pale, 126 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

fluffy and tripled in volume. Whisk in the flour and a pinch of salt, then the 50g melted butter. 2 Spoon the mix into the buttered holes of the tin. Bake for 8-10 mins, or until puffed up and golden. Turn out onto a wire rack and leave to cool slightly. Madeleines are best eaten warm, but can also be served cold. Will keep in an airtight container for up to two days. PER MADELEINE 111 kcals • fat 6g • saturates 4g • carbs 12g • sugars 7g • fibre none • protein 2g • salt 0.2g

EXTRA TOUCHES Brown butter After you’ve melted the butter, continue to simmer until it turns light golden brown – this will give your cakes a nutty flavour note. Glazed Melt apricot jam with a little water, then brush over the warm cakes to glaze. Floral Add a few drops of rosewater or orange blossom extract to the batter for a delicately perfumed bake.

Other photographs ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, FLOORTJE/E+/GETTY

Make a batch of these delicate bite-sized cakes, then serve warm for a stylish afternoon tea

Recipe photograph MIKE ENGLISH | Shoot director EMMA WINCHESTER | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist SARAH BIRKS

French-style bake


SALMON + LIQUORICE

YES, IT WORKS!

easy skills

Fish and the mild aniseed flavour of fennel – or anise-flavoured liqueurs and star anise – are a classic pairing. Used in moderation, the background flavour of liquorice works in the same way. Use raw liquorice root in sauces to pair with salmon, or unsweetened liquorice paste when curing salmon.

+

Discover more BBQ classics at bbcgoodfood.com/ all-barbecue

LIQUORICE

SALMON

KITCHEN HACK

Protect your roasting tin

When roasting something coated in a sticky sauce or glaze, like teriyaki salmon or BBQ chicken wings, the glaze can weld itself to the roasting tin. To avoid this, simply line the tray with a sheet of baking parchment, then roll up and discard this after cooking.

STEPS TO SUCCESS

RACK OF RIBS  Remove the membrane If your ribs have any of the thin silver-grey membrane left on the underside of the rack, remove it before cooking. Or, if you’re buying from a butcher, they will be able to do this for you. It doesn’t break down during cooking and stops marinades and rubs from penetrating the meat.  Marinate for longer To maximise flavour, marinate ribs overnight so the flavourings can really penetrate the meat. This also helps tenderise the ribs.

& Turn to page 24 for our succulent piri-piri pork ribs recipe.

 Pre-cook For fall-off-the-bone ribs, cook in the oven first on a medium-low heat for two to three hours.  Barbecue on indirect heat If finishing ribs on the barbecue, ensure the coals aren’t too hot, as the ribs will just burn rather than caramelise. Make a space without coals, or just a few of them, and turn the ribs regularly.  Rest before serving Ribs need 10-15 minutes of resting time before serving. This enhances their flavour and texture, and also ensures the sticky marinade doesn’t burn your guests’ mouths.

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 127


NEXT LEVEL

Pavlova

recipe BARNEY DESMAZERY photograph MOWIE KAY SERVES 6 PREP 25 mins plus cooling COOK 1 hr EASY V

S NOW W H IT E Bake the meringu e at the lowest te mperatu re your ove will go – n this mak es it cris while reta p ining the pure wh colour. It ite will finish cooking the resid in ual heat of the ov en.

SOFT CENTRE Classic meringue is crisp and brittle, while a pavlova should be soft and marshmallow-like in the middle. We’ve added cornflour to help achieve this distinctive texture.

WHAT When it comes to make-ahead puds that deliver the wow factor for not much effort, a pavlova is your best bet. Some fall short for being overly sweet – usually made with a classic meringue of just sugar and egg whites – but by applying a few tricks and reducing the overall sugar, you end up with a fruitier, lighter (but still indulgent) dessert.

VANILLA SKY Transform clouds of sweetened crème fraîche with a few drops of vanilla extract to make it chantilly-style.

Shoot director CLOE-ROSE MANN | Food stylist KATIE MARSHALL | Stylist MAX ROBINSON

W H AT T O B U Y 4 egg whites 1/2 lemon, juiced (you’ll need 1 tbsp juice; reserve the squeezed lemon half) 200g caster sugar 2 tsp cornflour For the fruit topping 400g strawberries, hulled and halved or quartered if large 1 tbsp icing sugar small squeeze of lemon juice 200g raspberries handful of redcurrants (optional) handful of small mint or basil leaves (or use a mixture) For the cream 300g full-fat crème fraîche 25g icing sugar ¼ tsp vanilla extract

128 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

FREEZE FOR EASE Older egg whites create more volume when whisked than fresh ones. To break down fresh egg whites, freeze them, then defrost. Or, use frozen egg whites you have left over from another recipe that uses just the yolks.

G OFF C O O L IN ish, switch ssional fin fe ro p re o For a m meringue d leave the an n ve o the e off th ly (keeping ool gradual c to . e g d n si in nt cracki d) to preve door close


skills PICK YOUR OWN FRUIT Summer berries are the ideal topping for this pavlova, but depending on the season or availability, you could also use mango, pineapple, stewed rhubarb or blackberries.

HOW TO MAKE IT

LESS SUGAR MORE TASTE We’ve made our meringue using a modest amount of sugar so it’s not cloying.

A SIMP L E SY R UP Rather th an puré eing fru make a it to sauce, w e’ve sim macera p ly ted the strawbe to draw rr ie s out their natural ju and crea ices te a driz zly syrup intensifie that s their fl avour.

SMOOTH TOUCH You can just spoon the raw meringue mixture onto the parchment, but we’ve given it a neat finish using a palette knife.

GET FRA ÎC H E Unlike dou ble cream , crème fraîche bri ngs the we lcome tang of mild sourness, which helps balan ce the swe etness of everything else in the dessert.

S , OTE good AL N B R in k g o HE lo r ell as of mint o As w vour ring e la t f t l a a a sc herb hole adds Use w . a basil s v lo leave e pav basil r to th o t min sult. small est re b e h for t

1 If you’re using fresh eggs and you have time, freeze the egg whites, then defrost completely (see tip, ‘freeze for ease’, left). Line a large baking sheet with baking parchment and heat the oven to 120C/100C fan/gas 1/2. Using a 20cm cake tin or plate as a guide, draw a circle on the parchment, then flip it over. 2 Rub the reserved lemon half around the inside of a large bowl. Tip in the egg whites and whisk using an electric whisk until small, foamy bubbles form, about 1-2 mins. Continue to whisk until the egg whites resemble shaving foam, then add the sugar, 1 tbsp at a time, until the meringue is thick and glossy. Rub a dab between your fingertips – if you can feel any grains of sugar, keep whisking for a few minutes more. Add the cornflour and lemon juice, then whisk for another 30 seconds. 3 Spoon the meringue mix into the middle of the circle template, then use a palette knife to spread it out to fill the circle, creating a dip in the middle (this will hold the topping later). Run the palette knife up the edges at regular intervals to create ridges, if you like. Bake for 1 hr, then turn off the oven and leave the pavlova to cool completely with the door shut (if you can, leave it overnight). 4 For the topping, tip the strawberries into a bowl, dust with the icing sugar and squeeze over a little lemon juice. Mix together and leave to stand for 30 mins. Meanwhile, whisk the ingredients for the cream together until thick and pillowy. Gently stir the raspberries and redcurrants, if using, through the strawberries. Spoon the cream into the middle of the pavlova, then top with the fruit, drizzling over any juice. Scatter over the mint or basil before serving. GOOD TO KNOW vit c • 1 of 5-a-day • gluten free PER SERVING 401 kcals • fat 20g • saturates 14g • carbs 48g • sugars 46g • fibre 4g • protein 4g • salt 0.1g

next month

Blackberry pie Use up a glut of late-summer berries in this bake. Our August issue is on sale 28 July.

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 129


5 OF THE BEST

Pizza ovens Do you love a classic margherita or like to experiment with toppings? Whatever your preference, create the perfect pizza with the right oven – here are our top picks

Ooni Koda 16 Ooni is a leading brand in the pizza oven market, and for good reason. This gas-powered model is designed to create authentic-tasting pizzas in just 60 seconds. It has an innovative L-shaped flame that creates a waterfall effect, offering great flavour and heat retention and distribution. Our finished pizza was impressive, with lovely charred bubbles around the crust, a crisp base and melted, oozy mozzarella. £499, Ooni

Best wood-fired pizza oven

Igneus Classico Yorkshire-based wood-fired oven brand Igneus are behind this premium-quality product. The big selling point of its Classico is the fact it can cook two large pizzas at the same time – in fact, the oven cavity is so large, it could comfortably fit an entire roast dinner. The quality of our cooked pizza was excellent, so we scored it an almost perfect nine out of 10. £875, Igneus

Sage the Smart Oven Pizzaiolo An indoor benchtop model, the Sage Pizzaiolo provides brick-oven performance at a fraction of the cost. There are seven preset modes for all styles of pizza (from ‘New York’ to ‘deep dish’ and even ‘frozen’), plus a manual mode. The ‘wood-fired’ mode seriously impressed us: the result was a crisp, leopard-spotted crust and perfectly melted cheese. £529, John Lewis & Partners Best indoor pizza oven

Best gas pizza oven

Most versatile pizza oven

La Hacienda Firebox BBQ This is an affordable buy for those with limited space. It works by sitting on the grill of a barbecue – we used a barrel-shaped one, but it would also fit square or oblong gas models (check the dimensions). The user-friendly temperature dial offers ‘warm’, ‘ideal’ and ‘hot’ settings. We found cooking on the hot side of ‘ideal’ made the best pizza. £95.99, Robert Dyas

Gozney Dome During its first launch, this stylish giant sold out in under eight hours, and we can understand why. It’s a professional-grade pizza oven that’s been built on a smaller scale for using, storing and enjoying in the garden. The dual-fuel design enables you to cook with either gas or wood for that authentic smoky flavour. Our cooked pizzas had a textbook mottled crust and were done in just under two minutes. £1,199, Gozney

Best pizza oven for BBQ

For the full list of expert reviews, go to bbcgoodfood.com/review or scan the QR code

130 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022


skills

Triple-cream cheeses Luxuriously buttery, these artisan products come recommended by the Academy of Cheese

1

Triple-cream cheeses originated in 19th-century France, when rich, fatty foods were considered to be symbols of wealth and opulence. Traditionally, triplecream cheese would have been made from raw cow’s milk, but emerging cheesemakers are experimenting with goat’s and ewe’s milk varieties. Whatever the source, the end result is always a buttery-rich, luxurious cheese. Culinary law states that a triplecream cheese must contain a minimum of 75% fat content in its dry matter. This is not as bad as it sounds, however; the finished

2

cheeses are actually more like 37-40% fat, since approximately half of a soft cheese is water. To achieve the higher fat content, double cream is added to the milk before coagulation begins. Once the cheeses are set, they are left to develop a bloomy rind, which is formed by yeast and penicillium candidum mould blossoming on the surface. This mould ripens the cheese from the outside in, which takes place over a short period of time, usually three to five weeks.

& Learn more about cheese at academyofcheese.org

TH RE E TO TRY 1

3

MONTAGNOLO AFFINE Crafted in Bavaria, this mild, incredibly creamy cheese is velvety smooth. It combines the rich texture of brie with the bite of a blue, and is a great gateway for anyone who shies away from blue varieties. It’s very soft, so it’s ideal for spreading, and pairs well with light red wines such as gamay.

2

SAINT ANDRÉ Made in the Coutances region of Normandy, this widely available cheese is buttery in taste and texture. While it sits well in a salad, it can also be enjoyed simply with fruit, particularly pears. Its full flavour can make white wines taste sour, so it’s best served with a light beer or dessert wine.

3

FINN Meaning ‘Great White One’ in Irish, this is a deliciously rich cheese with a soft ice cream texture from Neal’s Yard Creamery in Herefordshire. The creamy acidity of the younger cheese develops into deeper mushroom and walnut flavours as it ages. Serve with a sparkling wine to cut through the richness.

Welcome to our new We’ve teamed up with fellow enthusiasts cheesegeek to bring you some of the finest cheeses from the UK and Europe. For more information and to order yourself a box of specially curated cheese, go to bbcgoodfoodcheeseclub.com

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 131


D R I N KS C A B I N E T

Spice things up Mix up a chilli-spiked margarita with a recipe from Miriam Nice, plus learn about tequila’s smokier cousin, mezcal, and this summer’s best tipples, chosen by our drinks expert Georgina Kiely

Spicy margarita SERVES 4 PREP 15 mins COOK 5 mins MORE EFFORT V

150ml tequila 75ml triple sec 25ml chilli syrup (see below) 25ml mango juice 25ml lime juice handful of ice For the chilli syrup 1 red chilli, sliced 50g golden caster sugar For the salt rim small handful of coriander, leaves picked and finely chopped 1/2 lime, zested 2 tsp sea salt flakes 2 tsp golden caster sugar 1/2 tsp chipotle chilli flakes

1 First, make the chilli syrup. Put the sliced chilli and sugar in a saucepan with 50ml water. Bring to a simmer over a lowmedium heat, stirring until the sugar has dissolved. Turn off the heat and leave to cool completely.

2 For the salt rim garnish, mix all the ingredients together and tip onto a shallow plate. Brush the rims of four tumblers with a little water, then dip the rims in the chilli-salt mixture. Set aside while you make the margarita. 3 Tip all the cocktail ingredients into a large cocktail shaker or blender and shake vigorously until the outside of the shaker feels cold, or pulse two or three times to combine. You want to chill, aerate and dilute the drink, but not completely crush the ice. 4 Fill a large jug and the prepared tumblers with ice cubes, then strain the cocktail into the jug and stir well before pouring into the tumblers. GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten free PER SERVING 160 kcals • fat none • saturates none • carbs 9g • sugars 8g • fibre none • protein 0.1g • salt 0.6g

132 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022


skills

ALL ABOUT MEZCAL WHAT IS MEZCAL? This earthy spirit is made from agave (usually agave espadín), which is also used in tequila production. The core, or piña, is roasted in stone pits, then crushed to release the juice. This is then fermented, distilled and sometimes aged. It’s made in small batches almost exclusively in Mexico, usually in Oaxaca. There are many types available, depending on the agave used, flavours added during fermentation and any ageing that takes place. WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN TEQUILA AND MEZCAL? Mezcal is any

agave-based spirit, so all tequilas are mezcals, in the same way that single malts and bourbons are whiskies. But,

not all mezcals are tequilas, as tequila has geographical restrictions and can only be made from blue agave. They’re usually made in different areas of Mexico, and tequila involves steaming rather than roasting the agave. HOW DO YOU SERVE MEZCAL?

Drink it neat, on the rocks or in cocktails. Most mezcals have a smoky flavour, but they can also have fruity, floral or spicy notes, which work well in tequila-based cocktails, such as a paloma or margarita, or in drinks like negronis and old fashioneds. For more inspiration on using mezcal, check out our collection of mezcal cocktail recipes at bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/mezcal.

Raise a glass Refreshing drinks to enjoy this summer BEER LEMONDAYZ IPA

CIDER GALIPETTE ROSÉ

This zesty IPA is a good choice for parties. Inspired by the pop factory roots of the brewery, the 5.5% ABV beer is juicy and citrussy. from £3 per 330ml can, Waitrose & Partners and magicrockbrewing.com

Delicately sweet with a strong apple flavour, this is less acidic than typical cider, making it refreshing and easy to drink. £2 per 330ml bottle, Waitrose & Partners

GIN SLINGSBY GOOSEBERRY GIN

MEZCAL MADRE MEZCAL

Sharp yet sweet, this is distilled in Harrogate with local botanicals. It has a distinctive citrus tang that gives way to fresh, fruity flavours. £30 (70cl), spiritofharrogate.co.uk

BEER KVEIK Peach and mango flavours burst from this sweet beer made with a Norwegian heritage yeast strain. It comes with sustainable wood film can labels, too. £3.50 per 440ml can, Ocado

Handmade in Oaxaca using agave plants cooked over hot stones, this smoky, aromatic mezcal makes an unbeatable margarita. £60.99 (70cl), masterofmalt.com

KOMBUCHA REMEDY ORGANIC KOMBUCHA WILD BERRY Bursting with sun-ripened berries, this sweet, fruity kombucha captures the essence of summer while being low-calorie and sugar-free. £5 for four 330ml cans, Tesco

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 133


skills

Test kitchen secrets Our cookery assistant Helena Busiakiewicz shares what she’s learned about paprika WHAT IS IT MADE FROM? Paprika is simply finely ground dried peppers. The type of pepper and how it’s processed defines the spice, whether hot, smoky or sweet. PIMENTÓN OR SMOKED Spanish for paprika, pimentón is available in specialist shops. Often, the peppers have been smoked over oak fires, so use it when you need to emulate the taste of wood-fired cooking. It can be hot or sweet. SWEET In the supermarket, a jar labelled simply ‘paprika’ is most likely sweet paprika. This adds colour and a warm hum of fruitiness to a dish. HUNGARIAN A less-common variety in the UK, but well-worth seeking out. Hungary actually has eight different grades of paprika. For an authentic goulash, seek out ‘különleges’, the highest quality in the scale.

&

For this issue, Helena has tested paprika in this month’s cover recipe, piri-piri pork ribs (p24), as well as summer veg tostadas (p38) and smoky new potatoes (p90).

WE ARE Each month, we introduce you to the experts who create content for your favourite food brand BENJAMINA EBUEHI After getting to the quarter-finals on the seventh series of The Great British Bake Off, Benjamina has gone on to become a cookbook author, recipe developer and food stylist. She blogs at carrotandcrumb.com, recently published A Good Day to Bake: Simple Baking Recipes for Every Mood (£22, Quadrille) and contributes recipes to Good Food. She’s also created a series of fun video tutorials on making brownie toppings, loaded fries and cupcake toppers – you can watch these at bbcgoodfood.com/videos.

134 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

BUTCHER’S BLOCK

New cuts to try on the BBQ

When the sun’s out, the grills come out, and Jessica Wragg goes shopping for less obvious cuts of meat to barbecue LAMB BREAST Economical, and what’s more, unbelievably tasty, lamb breast is a cut that’s rarely sold and will instead often find itself in a butcher’s sausage machine. Buy three or four of these and ask your butcher to cut the ribs into singlets for you. When you get home, boil the ribs in water for an hour or so to tenderise before covering in your chosen marinade and finishing on the barbecue. PORK COLLAR Another cut that rarely makes it past the shop counter is pork collar, or pork rib-eye to some. This isn’t the leanest or healthiest cut of meat, but for a special occasion, does that matter? If you want to impress your guests, have your butcher cut the steaks thinly and marinate for at least 12 hours. On the grill, cook them over a medium heat and be sure to weigh them down so they crisp up nicely. PICANHA Some will swear by the rib-eye cap or the ‘denver’ for a barbecue, but if you can find a butcher who will sell you the picanha (or rump cap) as a whole, you must stay with them for life. A triangular cut that can range from anywhere between 600g-1.3kg, the picanha should be cooked whole. Sear it first over the hottest part of your grill before moving it to an indirect heat to cook until medium-rare (see our guide to barbecuing at bbcgoodfood.com/how-light-bbq). Let it rest, then slice it whole – your guests will be impressed by this special centrepiece.

& Jessica Wragg is a Londonbased butcher. Her book, Girl on the Block (£20, DeyStrBks), is out now. jessicawragg.co.uk @jessicawragg


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JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 135


WANT TO TALK TO SOMEONE ABOUT YOUR ARTHRITIS? Call our free helpline

0800 5200 520

Find out more at versusarthritis.org

Versus Arthritis: Registered Charity England and Wales No. 207711, Scotland No. SC041156.


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MARKETPLACE HIGHLIGHTS Amazing Rhubarb Natural Flavouring This Rhubarb Natural Flavouring from Foodie Flavours always proves a big hit with customers - full of bright fresh flavour. Why not drop over to foodieflavours.com and check the ‘Rhubarb and Strawberry Fool’ recipe. Or make your own version by selecting from the huge range of high strength flavours available. All are suitable for Vegans, Gluten-free, Egg-free, Dairy-free, no added sugar and made in the UK.

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Group editor-in-chief Christine Hayes

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Group digital editor Lily Barclay Editor, bbcgoodfood.com Natalie Hardwick Associate editor, bbcgoodfood.com Amanda Nicolas Editor, olivemagazine.com Alex Crossley Health editor Tracey Raye Digital content producer, health Isabella Bradford Digital food editor Georgina Kiely Reviews & ecommerce editor Lucy Roxburgh Premium content manager Katie Meston Audience development manager Kim Onasile Audience development executive Alice Johnston Digital assistants Emily Lambe, Helen Salter

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We test them thoroughly to ensure they work for you

 Read the recipe before starting. Basic storecupboard ingredients, like salt, aren’t included in the ingredients list.  Use standard measuring spoons for accuracy, especially for things like spices, yeast and salt.  Where possible, we use humanely reared and produced British meats, poultry and eggs, and sustainably sourced seafood.  To help avoid waste, we suggest how to use any leftovers you may have from our recipes.  Eggs carrying the British Lion mark guarantee that all hens are vaccinated against salmonella.  We try to avoid using plastic. You’ll find instructions to wrap or cover, but we won’t specify what to use unless it’s vital to the recipe. Helping you to eat well Our BANT-registered nutritionist analyses our recipes on a per-serving basis, not including optional serving suggestions. You can compare these amounts with the Reference Intake (RI), the official recommended amount an adult should consume daily. Energy 2,000 kcals, Protein 50g, Carbohydrates 260g, Fat 70g, Saturates 20g, Sugar 90g, Salt 6g (please note RIs for total fat, saturates, sugar and salt are the maximum daily amounts). Healthy recipes are checked to ensure they have a low amount of saturated fat, sugar and salt per 100g, equivalent to green on a traffic-light label. On a per serving basis, Good Food require the saturated fat to be 5g or less, salt 1.5g or less and sugar, 15g or less per serving. Low-fat recipes in Good Food are low per 100g, or 12g or less per serving. Low-calorie recipes have 500 calories or less per main course, or 150 calories or less for a dessert. We also include the number of portions of fruit and/or veg in a serving, and highlight recipes that supply a third of the daily requirements of calcium, iron, folate and vitamin C, and a good source of fibre and omega-3. Balanced recipes contribute to your five-a-day, include starchy carbohydrate, a lean source of protein and dairy, or plant-based alternatives. These recipes also use unsaturated oils in small amounts, and all components of the main meal are included in the analysis – only seasonings are excluded as ‘to serve’. Saturated fats, sugar and salt are medium per 100g, or amber on a traffic-light label.

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Enjoy a splash of colour in your garden with this beautiful, new, award-winning series of Buddleja. Bred to be shorter and more compact than the traditional varieties, they are a dream for smaller gardens and perfect for planting in containers on a patio if you have limited space, as well as in borders. The dense, conical spikes of sweetly fragrant blooms appear above pretty, neat, blue-green foliage from latesummer to autumn, and will be adored by bees, butterflies and other pollinators. Their mature height and spread is 80cm, and they are a fully hardy perennial, flourishing outside all year round with no winter protection required. Supplied as 9cm pots for delivery in July.

As a special offer for BBC Good Food readers, add a 50g sachet of this unique plant feed for just £1 with every order Try this brand-new, unique blend of generalpurpose plant food for even more flowers throughout the season. Usually £5, BBC Good Food readers can order at the introductory price of £1. A 50g sachet will make 100 litres of feed. Limited to one per household.

TO ORDER CALL 01386 426 245 quoting ROGF or VISIT hayloft.co.uk/ROGF

or COMPLETE THE FORM BELOW and send to GOOD FOOD READER OFFER, PO BOX 2020, PERSHORE, WR10 9BP. Please add £5.95 postage to your order. Initial

code: ROGF

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PRICE £12

ROGF-25BP1

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Terms and conditions *£5.95 p&p per order. Prices are correct at time of printing. Offer closes 31 July 2022. Please note your contract for supply of goods is with Hayloft, Manor Farm, Pensham, Worcs WR103HB. Full T&Cs available on request. All items are subject to availability. All orders will receive an order acknowledgement. Occasionally the advertised delivery date may change, however, this will be clearly stated on your order confirmation. Offer available to UK addresses only. Reader offer cannot be used in conjunction with any other promotions or discounts.

JULY 2022 bbcgoodfood.com 145


last bite

Sweet endings Good Food reader Rosie Jones shares her recipe for a luxurious no-bake dark chocolate dessert photograph TOM REGESTER

Il cioccolato del diavolo (the devil’s chocolate) From a young age, my preference has been for the snap of a good dark chocolate. I’m always set on finding new ways of making it the star of a meal, whether that’s in my devilled lamb or an indulgent dessert like this one, which requires patience but is worth the extra effort. It was born on a lazy day in rainy Dorset when the dulcet tones of Italian crooners were wafting through the air, making me long for a visit to Italy.

Shoot director FREDDIE STEWART | Food stylist AMY STEPHENSON | Stylist AGATHÉ GITS

SERVES 8-10 PREP 1 hr plus at least 4 hrs chilling NO COOK MORE EFFORT V

25 amaretti biscuits 75-100ml amaretto liqueur (to taste), plus 2 tbsp 300g dark chocolate, broken into pieces 5g unsalted butter 500ml double cream 100g mascarpone, whipped to loosen 4 egg yolks, plus 1 egg white (freeze the remaining whites for another recipe) 110g golden caster sugar 100g ground almonds 10g icing sugar cocoa or espresso powder, to serve

1 Line a 900g loaf tin with two crisscrossed strips of baking parchment. Crush 8 amaretti biscuits and scatter these over the base of the tin. Sprinkle over 2 tbsp amaretto liqueur. Set aside. 2 Tip the chocolate into a heatproof bowl along with the butter. Set the bowl over a pan of simmering water, ensuring the base of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Stir for 5 mins until melted. Or, melt in the microwave in 20-second bursts. Dip 8 amaretti biscuits in the chocolate, then arrange on a sheet of baking parchment. Set both the biscuits and chocolate aside to cool. 3 Whip 400ml double cream to soft peaks using an electric whisk, being careful not to over-whip. Use a large metal spoon to fold 80g mascarpone 146 bbcgoodfood.com JULY 2022

into the cream. Crush 5 amaretti biscuits and fold these into the mixture along with 75ml amaretto liqueur. Set aside. 4 In a separate large bowl, whisk the egg yolks and caster sugar together using an electric whisk until light, fluffy and tripled in volume – the mixture should form a slowly disappearing trail when you lift the beaters. Gently fold the almonds into the egg yolk mixture, then fold in the amaretto cream to combine. 5 Add the cooled melted chocolate and mix gently to combine. Whip the egg white to stiff peaks using an electric whisk, then fold this in, too, being careful not to knock out the air. Taste and fold in the remaining 25ml amaretto liqueur, if you like. 6 Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and chill for at least 4 hrs or overnight until set. If you have any extra mixture

that won’t fit into the tin, you can pour this into small dessert glasses and chill alongside the tin until set. 7 Tip the remaining double cream, the rest of the mascarpone and the icing sugar into a bowl and whisk to soft peaks. Spoon this into a small serving bowl and dust with cocoa or espresso powder. Invert the set dessert onto a serving plate or board, lift off the tin and remove the parchment. Dust with cocoa or espresso powder. Crush the rest of the amaretti biscuits, scatter these over the top and decorate with the chocolate-dipped biscuits. Slice with a warmed knife and serve with spoons of the mascarpone cream. PER SERVING (10) 701 kcals • fat 53g • saturates 28g • carbs 38g • sugars 34g • fibre 3g • protein 9g • salt 0.1g


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