BASIC MOUNTAIN BIKE SET-UP

Follow these tips to make sure your bike fits you well and performs at its best

ESSENTIAL TOOLS

• Allen key set

• Tyre pump

• Shock pump

1 Saddle Position

Loosen the bolts on the seatpost head. Slide the saddle forward if you want to centre your weight over the bottom bracket for more efficient climbing, or back for a more relaxed feel. Set the top of the seat level or with the nose slightly downward, to avoid it putting too much pressure on your delicate bits. Then retighten the bolts, a little at a time, to maintain this angle.

2 Saddle Height

For general riding, your saddle needs to be high enough so you can pedal efficiently, but not so high that your hips start to rock or you can barely reach the pedals. A good guide is to sit on the bike with one crank arm pointing directly down and adjust the saddle height until your heel just reaches the pedal. To do this, loosen the seat-clamp bolt or quick-release lever, slide the seatpost up or down in the frame, then retighten the bolt/lever. On downhills, getting the saddle out of the way improves manoeuvrability. If your bike has a dropper seatpost, you can lower the saddle with the press of a lever; if not, consider dropping the post manually into the frame before descents.

8 Tyre Pressures

For an average-weight rider running modern wider tyres (2.35in+) with a trail or enduro casing (eg. Maxxis EXO, Schwalbe SuperTrail), we’d recommend starting with pressures in the low 20s (psi) for general riding, for maximum grip and comfort. If you’re particularly heavy or aggressive, regularly ride rocky terrain or find that tyres run at this pressure feel ‘nervous’ in corners or pinch-puncture too easily, try adding a few more psi. Lighter riders or those running bigger tyres may be able to get away with less pressure.

7 Other Controls

Fit the gear shifter(s) and dropper seatpost remote (if applicable) around the brake levers. Loosen the bolt securing the controls, then adjust the position and angle for the most ergonomic feel. You may need to position the shifter on the other side of the brake lever.

3 Handlebar Height

Bar height takes experimentation to get right, so that your weight is well-distributed between the grips, saddle and pedals. A good starting point is to set the grips so they’re level with the saddle at full pedalling height (this may not be possible if you have long legs). To adjust bar height, remove the headset top-cap, loosen the stem’s steerer-clamp bolts and slide it off the fork steerer. Move spacers from above the stem to below it to raise the bar height, or vice versa. Refit the stem and top-cap, tightening the latter just enough to preload the headset bearings. Align the stem at 90 degrees to the fork crown and do up the steerer-clamp bolts to the recommended torque setting.

4 Handlebar Roll

Your position on the bike can be further adjusted by rotating the bar within the stem. Rolling it forward will move your weight toward the front, and vice versa. Start with the bar tips pointing a few degrees up from horizontal. Loosen the top two stem faceplate bolts enough to freely rotate the bar, adjust and retighten. Repeat until you’re happy.

5 Suspension Basics

6

Brake Lever Position

Loosen the clamp bolt(s) until you can slide the lever along the bar. Place your hand on the grip and find the position where your index finger sits comfortably on the edge of the lever blade, for maximum leverage. Retighten the bolt(s) enough to hold the lever in place. Set it at an angle that’s comfortable for your hand and wrist – generally, between 30 and 45 degrees below horizontal – then do up the bolt(s). Aligning your eye with the stem and tyre, adjust the other lever to match the first. If your brakes have reach adjustment, turn the dial or bolt so the pads bite with the lever at a comfy distance from the bar.

Use the manufacturer’s chart to find a ballpark spring pressure for your fork or rear shock, based on your weight. Inflate the air spring to this pressure, with a shock pump. Now to set the ‘sag’ – the travel left in reserve so that the wheel(s) can extend into holes, not just absorb bumps. Sit on the bike, in your riding gear. Bounce hard on the pedals to get the suspension moving. Reset the O-ring at the bottom of the fork leg or shock shaft, then carefully assume the ‘attack position’ (pedals level, knees bent, elbows forward). Use the O-ring to see how much the suspension sags into its travel. Add or reduce air pressure until you get around 20 per cent sag on the fork and 30 per cent on the shock. For a firmer ride, run more sag, and vice versa. Next, set the rebound damping, turning the dial until the suspension re-extends evenly and quickly after being compressed, but without feeling bouncy. If your fork has external compression damping adjustment, this can be used to provide a firmer pedalling platform and more to push against in corners, at the expense of reduced comfort. Start with the damping fully open and adjust from there. For more in-depth suspension advice, BikeRadar have a great video: