4 minute read
EVERY BITE VER Sunshine in
O’s pick of the peachiest alfresco dining spots for summer ’23, from sun-baked city squares to chilled rural idylls, rooftop hideaways and waterside retreats
ALL-WEATHER EXTRAVAGANZA KAPARA, LONDON
Channelling Tel Aviv, this vivacious Soho complex mixes music, food and cocktails, the fun spilling out onto a large covered, heated terrace (pictured, left). Chef Eran Tibi’s creative food revels in theatrical presentation and playful dish names. Dessert ‘gramp’s cigar’ very much looks like it, while deep-fried paprika marinated chicken thighs, with orange harissa kimchi and wild garlic mayo, are subtitled ‘crispy crunchy bums’. Core plates from £11; kapara.co.uk
HARBOUR VIEWS ARGOE, NEWLYN
Celebrating Cornwall’s fishing fleet, this modish, wood-clad restaurant serves daily changing menus of, say, grilled chard and scallop butter, sand sole with preserved lemon or coley skewers with togarashi. Its terrace and low-intervention tap wines seal a sweet summer deal. Plates £9-30; argoenewlyn.co.uk
HIP HIDEAWAY HOLM, SOUTH PETHERTON
A spin-off from London’s acclaimed Levan, this gorgeous Somerset restaurant-with-rooms has a kitchen garden terrace where you can linger over Orkney scallops with salsify and dulse butter or Westcombe ricotta agnolotti with pecorino and wild garlic. Larger plates from £18; holmsomerset.co.uk
BEACHSIDE BOLTHOLE THE GALLIVANT, CAMBER SANDS, RYE
There is a take-out menu to graze on while lazing in the dunes, or seek out this hotel’s chill alfresco area for English wines and sustainable plates such as Brit burrata with embercooked leeks and romesco. Mains from £22; thegallivant.co.uk
RURAL IDYLL UPDOWN, DEAL
There’s a Tuscan villa vibe to this renovated Kent farmhouse. Both in the more Italian of chef Oli Brown’s seasonal dishes (pork, borlotti, cime di rapa and salsa verde; Amalfi lemon sorbet), and in its outdoor space with its pergola of vines and wisteria. Mains from £22; updownfarmhouse.com
HOT STUFF BECKFORD CANTEEN, BATH
Chef George Barson’s modern British cooking (sardines on toast; monkfish with cauliflower and curried butter) is gathering plaudits and Beckford’s new courtyard garden only intensifies its appeal. A varied drinks list includes own-label wines, or for a great choice pop into nearby Beckford Bottle Shop where you can buy wines to drink here (plus corkage fee). A commitment to sourcing locally and choosing suppliers with strong sustainability credentials make it extra popular. Larger plates from £19; beckfordcanteen.com
PARISIAN STYLE POMPETTE, OXFORD
With its pavement terrace, steak frites, panisse and jambon persillé terrine, Pompette is a slice of Paris in Summertown. Two courses from £26; pompetterestaurant.co.uk
SEAFOOD CLASSIC BENTLEY’S, LONDON
Richard Corrigan’s classic, AKA the ‘grand dame of Swallow Street’, has been serving oysters, lobster bisque and dover sole from starched white linen since 1916. Its year-round terrace is especially appealing in the city sunshine. Mains from £29; bentleys.org
DAYTIME DELIGHT HILLTOP KITCHEN, GODALMING, SURREY
Farm-to-fork lunch spot (think brawn croquettes, chilli mayo; squash ravioli with hazelnuts, brown butter), whose terrace commands sweeping views. Mains from £11.50; hilltop-kitchen.co.uk
SUNNY DAY SPEED DIAL CELENTANO’S, GLASGOW
Nurse a negroni made with homemade vermouth on the handsome terrace, before trying chef Dean Parker’s Italian plates, such as linguine, cod cheeks, pistachio, preserved lemon and dill. Larger plates £15-26; celentanosglasgow.com
SUBURBAN STAR HEANEYS, CARDIFF
Serving ambitious dishes such as barbecued Welsh lamb, goat’s curd, black garlic, mint and nori, chef Tommy Heaney’s buzzy restaurant is a fave with Pontcanna foodies. Now includes a neat pavement terrace. Two courses from £25; heaneyscardiff.co.uk
POP-UP PEACH BARNABY’S, PADSTOW
Prawn on the Lawn’s new summer pop-up at Trevibban Mill Vineyard, an indoor-outdoor affair with lush views of vineyards and wildflower meadows. Expect dishes such as scallops, fenugreek and pistachio butter or BBQ mackerel and mojo verde. Plates around £7-24; prawnonthelawn.com
HIDDEN GEM DININGS SW3, LONDON
Shaded by an ancient oak, the cute courtyard behind this west London mews offers a serene escape. Chef Masaki Sugisaki’s elevated fish dishes, sushi and sashimi are equally restorative. Plates from £6.50; larger dishes from around £16.50; diningssw3.co.uk
COUNTRY HOUSE CLASSIC THE BARN, ASCOT
Stylish covered terrace amid hotel Coworth Park’s splendid gardens. The Barn’s British brasserie menu, from upscale burgers to elegant seafood dishes, is designed by Adam Smith, Michelin star holder at the hotel’s Woven restaurant. Mains from £26; dorchestercollection.com
WATERSIDE WONDER PACO TAPAS, BRISTOL
LA DOLCE VITA CIRCOLO POPOLARE, LONDON
With its extravagant décor, Neapolitan-style pizza and fresh pastas (including a carbonara served in a hollowedout pecorino wheel), Circolo feels like a portal to Italy. Its leafy terrace, like a courtyard you might stumble across in Sicily or Rome, continues that vibe. Mains from £13.50; bigmammagroup.com
From prized presa ibérica pork to Galicianstyle octopus, next-level Spanish dishes alfresco on Bristol harbour. Dishes £8-49; pacotapas.co.uk
ENGLISH WINE AND DINE CHALK, WASHINGTON, WEST SUSSEX
Lush courtyard setting amid a renovated 18th century barn complex, on winemaker Wiston’s estate. After an appetite-sharpening glass of brut NV, enjoy well executed dishes of beef tartare or lamb, juniper-smoked potato and salsa verde. Mains from £17; wistonestate.com
MAKING HISTORY PURNELL’S CAFÉ & BISTRO, COVENTRY
Glynn Purnell’s latest venue, within a restored 14th century monastery and gardens. Sharing plates around £6-11; historiccoventrytrust.org.uk
SERENE IN THE CITY TOKLAS, LONDON
Large, peaceful, plantfestooned terrace above the Strand, serving – example plate: dover sole with courgette trifolati, marjoram and Amalfi lemon – some of London’s best Italian food. Larger plates from £19; toklaslondon.com
The High Life
Rooftop terraces where the food and vibe is as exciting as the view.
• Studio Frantzén, London
Björn Frantzén’s Asian-inflected Nordic food on Harrods’ top floor – the rooftop terrace offers views across Kensington and dishes such as sake-cured mackerel. Mains from £30; studiofrantzenlondon.com
• The Ubiquitous Chip, Glasgow
Eat the brasserie’s seafood risotto or beef and venison burger on a cosy terrace overlooking the West End. Mains from £16; ubiquitouschip.co.uk
• Green Room, Leeds
Hip brunch-lunch spot with a large, sunny roof terrace, and dishes ranging from rainbow bowls to pavlova-inspired french toast. From £8; green-room.com
• Maene, London Overlooking Spitalfields, enjoy the likes of Cornish mussels in smoked cider and butter sauce. Core plates £10-19; maenerestaurant.co.uk
• Climat, Manchester Consider the city’s skyline over sharing dishes of, say, pork loin, smoked clementine and mustard seeds. Plates £8-23; restaurantclimat.co.uk
• Cavo, London A stylish, lively terrace near Tottenham Court Road where you can enjoy upscale Mediterranean plates such as seared scallops in champagne butter with chilli. Sharing plates, £13-48; cavorestaurant.com
• The Seafood Restaurant, Padstow
On fine days, Rick Stein’s HQ opens its terrace for ocean views and seafood ranging from fish ’n’ chips to a blow-out fruits de mer. Mains from £18.95; rickstein.com
ARCHITECTURAL FIND MARAY, MANCHESTER
Colourful global plates on a terrace by the famous Hidden Gem church. Plates £5-13.50; maray.co.uk
• The Swan, Tenterden, Kent Expect inspiring views across Chapel Down vineyard and dishes of soused mussels, sea herbs, sourdough croûte and rouille. Lunch, two courses, £35; swanchapeldown.co.uk
• Laurel’s on the Roof, London Poolside 70s LA chic atop Mondrian Shoreditch. An allday menu includes tuna ceviche and lobster risotto. Mains from £16; ennismore.com
• The Suffolk, Aldeburgh Restaurantwith-rooms where stellar dishes (try roast halibut with lobster velouté) are now served with sea views on a new roof terrace. Mains from £18; the-suffolk.co.uk