It’s All Connected

Vegan Chef Johnny Johnston

by Kiyomi Appleton Gaines

JOHNNY JOHNSTON FOUND that the road to recovery led him to the middle of Mississippi. After getting out of the military, he went through what he casually refers to as “a difficult time.” Until he mentions it, his jovial and warm personality gives no hint to past struggles. Yet, while trials and challenges may shape our stories, they need not continue to define them. Johnny began by looking for ways to support his own health and wellbeing and found a calling to do that in his community.

Born and raised in Louisiana, he was always interested in food and learned to make classic recipes, like gumbo and jambalaya, at his father’s side. In high school, he took classes meant to lead him to a culinary career. Then, while stationed in Japan, Johnny learned about vegetarian and vegan cooking. But it was in Mississippi, known more for barbequed ribs and holiday tamales, that he began to explore what it could mean for food to be both sustaining and sustainable.

“There was an opening at the vegan cafe in the natural health foods co-op—I lived there! I was in there five, six times a day, and people would joke about putting a cot in the back for me. I was always looking at different foods and learning about the products.” When there was an opportunity for him to join on as head chef, he jumped at it. “I got to follow my dream of being a vegan chef. Then it was sink or swim time!”

Johnny Johnston and Caroline Williamson with their son, Emmett.

Food is healing for Johnny, along with his regular yoga practice, which he describes as a huge part of his life, and the community he’s built around both. His priority is on being conscious and thoughtful about every aspect of life, from food and health to finances. “It’s all connected,” he says again and again in our conversation. “That may sound ‘crunchy,’” the former Marine confides with a laugh, “but I think it’s true.

“Being in recovery drove me to health and wellness and taking care of my body; type 1 diabetes runs in my family. With fresh vegan food, your mind feels clearer, and that hooks you; it improves your quality of life. So many medication needs can be met simply by improving diet. When you look at symptoms of illness and disease, many can be changed with diet—what you’re putting into your body.” (Johnny is quick to add that medical interventions can be life-saving and necessary. Anyone looking to make a major change in diet or exercise should consult with their medical provider.)

“At one point, I had 2nd- and 3rd-degree burns and had to take medication to treat that. I realized, ‘in about 10 or 15 minutes, this will affect the way I feel.’ It’s the same with food; when you eat something, it will change the way you feel, even within 10-15 minutes.

“You’re either eating your way toward disease or toward wellness,” says Johnny. “You’re never in neutral. It’s the same with everything—you’re either working towards [your goals], or the other way. That inspires me to continue to strive for a better and longer life. I have a son and another on the way. I want to live a long time to share their lives.”

He mentions drinking water with lemon, and I wonder for a moment if that’s because I admit to fighting a cold during our conversation, but he says that’s how he starts every day. He advises starting small, incorporating little daily practices, like that glass of water with lemon, and seeing how you feel. “When you get into eating fresh foods, you have more energy and you feel better.

“One thing I always tell people is that there’s good and bad stress. And dietary stress [from processed foods] puts stress on the body. Alternatively, if you go all-in on veganism and stress out about what you’re eating, you’re not really eliminating the stress!” he laughs. “Instead, I tell people, make small changes. Don’t think about taking something away from your diet— think about adding something. People have the mindset of can’t-can’t, but instead think, ‘what does your body need?’ Try replacing things, like lemon water instead of coffee. Try a juice, a raw meal, some fresh fruit. Once you start doing that, your day is filled with healthier options. It’s not a diet—it’s a lifestyle change. That’s what it takes to really make an effective difference.”

When a close family member became ill with a rare cancer, that brought Johnny back to Louisiana, and he eventually settled in Covington with his young family. “I moved back to help. Springs of Life Cafe brought me on as head chef, and I began to build a reputation in Covington. Then COVID hit.”

When the cafe closed, Johnny turned his attention back to where he knew he could find solutions—to good food, healthful practices, and community. “We had our land and started a garden, growing veggies, and my good friend had been telling me to come to the farmers market. He needed help; he had huge lines. We had just made a ton of mayhaw jelly during the pandemic, and we had all the vegetables coming in, so we brought them.” Before long, Johnny was a market regular and had his own stand.

“Many people coming to the market knew me from Springs of Life and asked for the vegan burger. I already had all the equipment, so I brought it out and started cooking all the vegetables we were growing. We couldn’t grow enough vegetables to keep up with demand! The business just grew.”

Bhakti Farms, the catering company Johnny now runs with his wife, can be found at the Covington Farmers Market most weekends and the Abita Springs Art and Farmers Market on some Sundays. Bhakti, “devotion” in Sanskrit, is a touch-point for Johnny and his business. “It’s a kind of yoga,” he explains, “and it means devoting everything you do in life to God. Everything goes hand in hand; it all connects. Being thoughtful with everything I do, every part of my day. If you just did that, and think about why you’re doing it, that can make a big difference.”

In the fall, in partnership with Northshore Greens, Bhakti Farms hosted an inaugural yoga festival. “Food, music, and yoga on 26 acres,” he says.

For those who may be doubtful about vegetarian cuisine, Johnny says, “Just try the food! Even if there’s no meat in it. People think vegan or healthy food is tasteless, but my food is packed full of flavor and smokey goodness! At least one person at every market is a meat eater who gets my burger and doesn’t know it’s not meat, and the next week they’re back.”

He sells his patties, sauce and seasoning mix at the farmers market to make it easier for people to try vegetarian food. His favorite part of the work is connecting with people. “That drives me to keep doing what I do. You could be having the worst day and then connect with someone, hear their story and it completely blows you out of the water— or someone who says you’ve changed their life. That they feel better.

“The feeling that I’m helping somebody, giving something, everything that I have to what I do—I devote everything I have to a higher power, and I see that in everyone I come in contact with.”

For those interested in learning more about vegetarian eating and life, Johnny recommends reading Vegan on the Cheap by Robin Robertson, and Thrive: The Vegan Nutrition Guide to Optimal Performance in Sports and Life by Brendan Brazier.

Bhakti Farms will start a monthly vegan potluck and by-donation yoga this month (January 2022). More details can be found at bhaktifarms.com, or on social media @BhaktiFarms. The second annual Bhakti Farms Yoga Fest is scheduled for May 20-22, 2022.