Louisiana Pitmaster

James Cruse is out to convince the world of just one thing — that the very best barbecue comes from right here in the Pelican state. The quick witted, down-toearth, salesman-by-day is arguably the most decorated pitmaster in Louisiana history, and he’s got the awards to prove it. From almost two decades on the competition circuit, to endorsement deals and TV shows, to his own line of rubs, Cruse is a man with a lot of irons in the fire. And he wouldn’t have it any other way.

INSIDE NORTHSIDE: You’ve been getting a lot of attention lately. You’re coming off ‘BBQ Brawl’ with Bobby Flay on the Food Network, your team took second place for ribs at the Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest. So what do you consider the highlight of your career to date?

JAMES CRUSE: Winning the world championship last year at Memphis in May! What’s crazy is that we’ve now been in the finals for three straight world championships — only the second team ever to do that. They didn’t hold Memphis in May in 2020, but I was third in the world in 2019, first in 2021, and second in 2022. We lost by 16 hundredths of a point this year.

Louisiana isn’t exactly synonymous with barbecue. Is that something you actively want to change?

We’ve always been a live fire state, and we’ve always been an outdoor cooking state. We can barbecue for a solid 10 months of the year. So once we figured it out, there’s nothing that is going to stop us. Our palates are more developed than everyone else’s so we’re going to bring more balance than anyone else — we’re going to cook with more robust flavors. New York can claim the fanciest restaurants but the best food in the country comes from right here in Louisiana, and I think that translates to barbecue as well.

And what makes Louisiana barbecue different from say, Texas or Carolina barbecue?

It’s the influence of the multiple cultures that have settled here. The style of cooking we do here is influenced by Spanish, French, African, Italian, South American, the Canary Islands. Southern Louisiana really is a big gumbo pot. And all the flavors come together to inspire and create new things that we translate into our barbecue. I’m not going to cook barbecue that’s offensive — meaning there’s not one flavor that stands out. No one will say, “James’s barbecue is too spicy, or too salty, or too sweet, or tastes too much like xyz barbecue.” It just tastes like well balanced barbecue and that’s what I pride myself on.

Did you grow up around a kitchen?

Both sides of my family cooked a lot. Both sides are from big families. My mom’s one of nine kids, my dad’s one of nine kids. So they both grew up in families that cooked all the time. My dad’s family cooked a lot of country style food, and my mom’s family was more of a cajun/creole style. So I kinda grew up cooking both. And I’ll put a gravy on anything.

Didn’t you just win an award for your gravy?

(Laughing) I did. I’m the current national gravy champion and I’ve got the championship gravy boat to prove it! That was a contest from Honeysuckle White and the National Turkey Federation. Thing is, I grew up a block and a half away from the original Popeyes, and they’ve got great gravy. So I guess I got it honest (laughing).

So when did you know that this was something you not only wanted to do, but knew you could do?

That’s a good question. I mean, I’ve always liked to cook but that’s not what I do every day — I’m in sales day-to-day. But I cooked my first real dish at 13 — Kung Pao Chicken — because I loved that dish, and when we weren’t at a game or at practice on Saturdays, we were in the kitchen cooking. But as far as barbecue goes, I grew up loving it. We’d cook it all the time, especially on my dad’s side of the family. And I’m one of those people that if I like something and I want to learn it, I’m going all in on it. So I learned how to cook ribs. I started to cook it for friends and family and I got pretty good feedback. Then me and my cousin entered our firstever barbecue contest and we took first place in ribs. Our very first contest ever! At that point I was just hooked. That was 17 years ago. And I’ve always said that I’ll stop when I’ve learned everything there is to know about barbecue.

So what are some of the things that people don’t realize go into these competitions?

The amount of work leading up to it. The amount of prep you do during the week — sourcing ingredients, shopping — there’s a lot of work you do before you even show up on site. And then once you’re on site, you’re up against a clock. No one’s timing you in your backyard. If you’re hosting a party at your house and the ribs aren’t done, you drink another beer or two until they are done. You can’t do that in a competition.

How many competitions do you normally compete in over the course of a year?

I’ve done upwards of 22, 23, but these days I’m probably doing 10 to 15, at most. I try to focus more on the bigger competitions now.

And what do you consider your specialty?

I make a really good peanut butter and jelly sandwich (laughing). No, I made a name for myself in ribs. Lots of people like my brisket, but I became Louisiana’s first barbecue world champion in ribs. I have three first place finishes for ribs at Hogs for the Cause. It’s the first thing I learned how to barbecue, and it’s the one thing that I put that extra sprinkle of passion into.

How has your success on the competition circuit helped on the endorsement side?

When companies are looking to you for a sponsorship or a partnership, we’re really all helping each other out. My partners’ customers are looking to me as an expert in the field. What better expert than someone who has actually used the product, has had success with it, and has put it through every test you could think of? I won’t endorse products I don’t use.

And you’re currently working with Desi Vega on a barbecue joint in Mandeville that will be opening in September. Tell us about that.

I’ve signed on to be their barbecue consultant. And I couldn’t be more excited for what these guys are doing. They’re basically elevating the barbecue dining experience on the Northshore. They aren’t serving barbecue on a metal tray or paper plate. They’ve got the Desi Vega name to live up to. When you think of Desi Vega, you think of service, the best quality ingredients, and an elevated atmosphere. They’re sourcing some really nice highend meats. I tell people that if you ever wanted to eat barbecue on a date night, this is the place.

So what’s next for James Cruse?

Seasonings! During the day I’m the national sales manager for Deep South Blenders and Cajun Land Products. I’m collaborating with them now on my own product line - Stockyard Landing. It’s a line of rubs that I’ve used to win the world championship. We have three of them coming out — two barbecue rubs and a steak/burger/ brisket seasoning.

And what’s the significance of the name Stockyard Landing?

I’m from Arabi, and Arabi was once a part of New Orleans. It’s where all the stockyards and slaughterhouses were located. When New Orleans passed an ordinance that there couldn’t be any slaughterhouses within city limits, this little area broke off to become its own city called Stockyard Landing (later changed to Arabi). We have a long tradition of handling beef, pork, chicken, you name it. Some of the houses in Arabi still have the old blood traps in the backyard. So while I may not come from an area known for its barbecue, I definitely come from an area that knows quality product and meats.

So what advice can you give the amateur pitmaster trying to impress his friends?

Honestly, just keep it simple. When you try to be overly impressive, you can mess up and forget the fundamentals — fire, heat, smoke and flavor, the basics of barbecue. If you can get those basics right, you’ll nail even the simplest dish.