Travel Diary: Erin M. Cowser

Destination: Madeira and the Azores, Portugal

Travel Diary Of: Erin M. Cowser

Photos by Erin Cowser

Travelers: Erin M. Cowser, Katie Derbes, and Alison Dodson

We Went Because: 50th Birthday. Alison requested “stunning views,” and Katie wanted “exceptional wine.” The homepage of the Madeira Tourism site had both phrases on it. Decision made.

Hotel Recommendations: The Albatroz Beach & Yacht Club was our most accommodating stay with a floating pool situated in the ocean off the side of a dramatic cliff. We also spent several days in a rental in a neighborhood where the bread truck would drive down the street every morning. We were told to listen for the “beep beep.” I can still taste the most delicious breads and orange chocolate marble cake, which is even more divine when you’ve walked so much that you don’t feel guilty eating it!

Where to Eat: Vila do Peixe in Camara de Lobos, Madeira –terrace with a view of the bay and ocean, pick your fish off the ice fresh from the boats, Michelin Guide restaurant with the average meal costing 35 Euros. A lucky find while out driving was Gale. It was a bright, brothy, tomato-based seafood stew. They brought the entire pot to the table and everyone could dig in. Another restaurant in Funchal also brought an entire pot, but this version was a lemony delight with cilantro, shrimp, and rice.

Item of Clothing You Shouldn’t Leave Home Without: Waterproof hiking shoes.

Favorite Historic Landmark: The Valley of the Nuns in Madeira is breathtaking. Back in 1566 when pirates were attacking Funchal, a group of nuns needed a place to hide. They definitely picked a place with fantastic views. Curral das Freiras is a tiny village nestled in the crater of an extinct volcano, which makes it one of the only places on Madeira not visible from the sea. It is still home to the sisters of the 16th-century Santa Clara Convent who celebrate the chestnut like Louisiana loves its crawfish.

Favorite Local Attraction: While soaking in the mineral waters of Caldera Velha some fellow travelers said we must experience Termas da Ferreira before leaving Sao Miguel Island, The Azores. It’s a volcanic hot spring located within an ocean lagoon. The geothermal water swirls and mixes with the cool ocean water. There is a rope strung across the inlet for those in the pools to hold on to when the waves come pushing in and pulling back toward the sea. It was a lullaby for the senses.

Local Attraction Worth a Drive-By: The traditional houses in Santana, Madeira, were a fun, quick visit. It was like walking up to a postcard. Interesting that the people lived on the ground floor and all their agricultural supplies and food were kept in the upper-level “attic” of the triangular houses. Can see them all in 30-45 mins. Worth a “drive-by,” but only a drive-by.

A Great Experience Off the Beaten Path: Everything – even driving on the roads is a feast for the eyes with peaks and drop-offs that are not for the faint of heart. There are waterfalls along the side of the road like we have rest stops. Be warned that there are countless tunnels and switchbacks of up to 20-degree inclines. Some tunnels are one-way and you have to trust your gut and go for it when the opportunity presents itself.

Did you have any encounters with wildlife or nature that left a lasting impression? The ancient laurel forest of Fanal is renowned for its alluring beauty eerie atmosphere. This is one place where you actually want to experience it in the fog and mist. It’s an unblemished UNESCO World Heritage Site. The cows roam about, even though sometimes you can’t see them until you’re standing 5 feet from one of the gentle giants. And, the cow patties are no joke so watch where you step.

Worth the Splurge: Nothing. There was nothing that required a splurge. The food and wine are ridiculously inexpensive and the hikes and sites didn’t cost a thing. In the Azores, we opted to have one day of a private guided tour, which was wonderful. The guides were a young married couple who had left the corporate world of engineering in Switzerland to move home and share their love of The Azores with others. They gave us so many local tips for places to visit and eat that we spent the remainder of our days thoroughly enjoying their advice.

Not Worth the Splurge: Poncha. It’s the Madeiran version of a Hurricane in a souvenir glass. Tried a flight because it was everywhere. Tasted like different variations of penicillin and cough medicine.

Insider Tip: Try the green wine! Pass on the limpets (oysters are better!).

We Would Suggest this Trip to Others Because:

• They enjoy temps between 62-73 degrees YEAR-ROUND.

• While hiking from Pico do Arieiro to Pico Ruivo, you cannot help but pray – sometimes prayers of thanksgiving for creating such beauty, other times for safety when you realize that what your brain first interprets as two-dimensional views are real drops that are staggering and nearly incomprehensible to the naked eye. We hiked above the rainbows. Indescribable.

• People were patient and grateful that we were visiting their island. Zero attitude or snobbery from the locals. Everyone was lovely. Never once did we feel unsafe.

• As we were leaving, we looked out the window of the airplane and there was a rainbow touching the far side of the tarmac. We couldn’t have scripted a better farewell from the island.