BREAKING BREAD

In recent years, the cultures and cuisines of other countries and continents have become increasingly accessible to the British palate. From Italy to India, some nations’ dishes have been adopted by the UK for decades, and now far flung flavours of less recognised regions can be experienced on the streets and in the restaurants of our local cities and towns.

In Yorkshire, the unfamiliar food of one such country has surprised and satisfied - all the while revealing the humanity and positivity of a place that has rarely been explored here beyond the news headlines. Now, the people of Leeds, Bradford and York get to enjoy the true taste of Syria.

Qusay Amer and Eyad Charbatji are the two Syrians who have brought the cuisine of their homeland to Yorkshire. Both were born in Syria in the 1980s, before separately moving to Leeds and studying at Leeds Met University. It wasn’t until after graduating with masters degrees that the duo met, as they explain.

“The journey started after we met working together in BP Garages. Our relationship that developed led to trust and harmony among us, and reinforced the teamwork spirit needed for every business vision. That’s when we joined forces to establish Bab Tooma Restaurant.”

Whilst Middle Eastern flavours were seeping into our consciousness, those specifically of Syria were still unknown. Bab Tooma set out to change that, starting with the name: “In Arabic, ‘Bab Tooma’ means the ‘Gate of Saint Thomas’. It is a borough of the old city of Damascus in Syria, which is one of the seven gates inside the historical walls of the city and a geographical landmark of early Christianity” they explain. “It represents unity for Syrian society where people from different backgrounds live and meet.”

Despite a unique idea, knowledge and passion, there remained a lot for Qusay and Eyad to overcome. Starting with a very low capital, finding a proper location, obtaining the required licenses and marketing were some of many challenges faced. “We had to come up with innovative solutions, learning new skills and doing everything ourselves” they continue. “With no previous background in building work or renovation, we started watching videos on YouTube and learned the DIY work to keep the cost down!” This wasn’t easy. Working 18 hour days to maintain two jobs - “until our dream was realised and the restaurant had been built.”

That dream became a reality at the end of 2016 when Qusay and Eyad opened their first ever restaurant, serving authentic traditional dishes of Syria. “We used our moms’ recipes” they say, and Yorkshire loved it. Since then, Bab Tooma has gradually grown, enabling more folk to experience Syrian cuisine at restaurants in Oakwood Leeds, on Leeds Road Bradford, and at Goodramgate York. All of these remain true to their original ethos.

“We take great pride in serving traditional dishes made with fresh, authentic ingredients that have deep cultural significance” they confirm. With savoury kabab, creamy hummus, tangy Fattoush salad, and aromatic spices and seasonings, diners get a real taste of the Middle East. The atmosphere too is homely and personal, warm and inviting, keen to evoke the country’s essence. “The traditional décor makes you feel like you are in the heart of Syria” they describe. “We strive to make every guest feel like they are dining in our own home.”

Much like their name, Bab Tooma have created a hub where people from different backgrounds can meet. Young and old, families, couples, foodies - “we welcome a diverse group with a mix of different societies.” And it is these human relationships and bonds which, through the power of food, have not only brought Qusay and Eyad together, but can help connect communities and cultures everywhere - or as they put it:

“Our restaurant is a place where people can come together, break bread, and celebrate life’s milestones and joys. Our food is not just about nourishment but about expressing cultures and connecting people. We strive to create an atmosphere that fosters connection and community.”