IT’S TIME TO APPRECIATE AFRICAN CUISINE

BUHLE MBONAMBI

THERE was a time when we read about African cuisine from food publications and glossy travel magazines, it was about food from North Africa.

They would wax lyrical about the tagines of Morocco, the falafel and shawarma that Egypt is famous for.

The flat bread and couscous of Libya and the Lablabi and even shakshuka that is enjoyed in Tunisia.

Rarely has there been attention paid to other parts of the continent, until recent years.

We have seen food writers, chefs and cooks highlight cuisine from West, East and Southern Africa. Yewande Komolafe, had a major spread on the New York Times, where she spoke and shared West African recipes.

For the past two years, West African cuisine has been touted as the region the food world will be focusing on in various trend reports. We have seen an explosion of African chefs on social media, readily sharing African cuisine, even more so during the lockdown.

We have extensively reported on how restaurants around the world are already capitalising on this trend by including more African-inspired dishes alongside their fine dining European-style offerings.

Our cuisine is finally being given the spotlight it deserves.

Film maker, Tuleka Prah, is also at the forefront of documenting African cuisine for her website, My African Food Map.

She goes to different countries on the continent, speaking to chefs and most importantly, taking pictures of African cuisine and making it aesthetically pleasing. She told AP that she hoped to show the care and skill that goes into African dishes. "The idea, at its most basic, is to present the food how people who love it would prepare it. It's like a database or a digital vault where people can open the drawer, see recipes, see some ingredients.”

Watching the second episode of Netflix's Cooked with Cannabis, one of the chefs chooses to cook West African inspired food during the challenge. The episode was highlighting the cuisines of the world and the chefs competing chefs could choose which country they were going to highlight. He won the challenge.

Interestingly, Thabo Phake, a South African chef based in Abuja, Nigeria, says it was bound to happen, thanks to the world looking at Africa for inspiration in music, beauty and fashion. “With musicians and fashion designers getting more attention, the African culinary space is then privileged enough to benefit from it. I think it has to do with the trickling down effect.”

The 22 year old, who worked at Joburg’s Urbanologi before moving to Abuja, says it also has to do with Africans being more willing to sample food from other parts of the continent. Even chefs.

“More and more chefs are now prone to appreciating their culture and past rather than before when the majority of African chefs were less receptive of it. There are ingredients that have taught me on how broad African food is. For instance there's an ingredient made from tiger nut milk called ‘Kunu’ and it's more or less like what we have back home as Mageo.”

Award-winning writer and cookbook author, Ishay GovenderYpma, says that there has increasingly been conversations about the absence of Africa cuisine from parts of Western media for a few years. "It’s important to note that African food has always been here, prepared and consumed by Africans, written, spoken about and celebrated locally. With the recent recognition of chefs and food writers of African heritage in the US , such as Kwame Onwuachi, Michael W. Twitty, Selassie Atadika and Nneka Okona, there has been a corresponding growing mainstream interest in the food they write about and prepare. We’ve seen a greater interest in West African cuisine whereas, in the past Africa, has been viewed either as a continent, or as a purveyor of North African food and all else was a mystery to Western media."

In 2014, Selassie Atadika returned to Ghana and launched her food enterprise Midunu. This unique platform brings food, culture and community together.