Would you dare to wear Oud?

Oud is known for its distinctive, rich, and complex aroma, which is difficult to recreate even by synthetic molecules, says Malvika Barry

When I arrived in the Middle East, I was bewildered and intrigued by the scents all around me, from the aroma of spicy pungent kebab to the opulent scents on fully clothed men and women. Initially, I couldn’t quite put my “nose” on what they smelt off; what was this oh-so-overpowering, almost animalic musky, rich, honey-like, alluring fragrance that most of them reeked off? It was Oud, also known as Oudh, Gaharu, or Agarwood, and is one of the rarest and most expensive woods in the world.

Popularly known as Black gold, by the Middle Easterners, Oud is known for its distinctive, rich, and complex aroma, which is difficult to recreate even by synthetic molecules. When paired with some raw materials such as rose, sandalwood, patchouli, or saffron, they make an irresistible combination that is even more dynamic and wearable. Oud, just like the musical instrument Oud, is deeply rooted in the Islamic culture, and they have a sensual and soul-stirring symphony. Agarwood is traditionally used as incense by burning the wood chips in a madkhan (a small portable incense burner) in the form of bakhoor, which slowly diffuses and reveals its rich entrancing fragrance. The intoxicating and enigmatic smoky scent of these wood chips can also be used to enhance the smell of garments and clothes lightly. Oud oil is also used sparingly as a perfume, by many Oud lovers.

Oud’s sense-arousing smell

When I smelt Oud oil for the first time, it reminded me of a horse stable and the dry sweet honey-like hay fed to the horses. It is truly an odd smell, but it eventually grows on you and arouses your senses. Saudi and Gulf sell the best quality Oud at an exorbitant price, but what makes it so pricey? Oud is the resinous heartwood of Aquilaria trees, which are mostly grown in South East Asia. These trees undergo a process called tylosis, that involves the production of certain metabolites in the form of resins at the heartwood, when subjected to wounding or damage due to injury, insect invasion, infection from fungus or mould. The Aquilaria tree can battle the infection for several decades until it is finally cut down and sold as agarwood and eventually used for perfume production. The oldest infected trees have the most complex and rich aroma. Due to its gaining popularity in oriental perfumes, there is a dwindling population of the “real oud wood”. Now alternate modern plantation techniques have been devised to grow Aquilaria trees by subjecting them to artificial injury and infection by the Ascomycota fungus to provoke the defence mechanism of tylosis. Although they have mastered the art of production, the wood still lacks the complexity and intensity of its older counterpart.

West recognises Oud’s qualities

After centuries of being prevalent in the Islamic culture, Oud has gained recognition in the Western world as a priced and precious raw material in perfumery. Abdalla Ajmal, General Manager and grandson of the founder of Ajmal perfumes from Assam, India, once said, “It’s not just a fragrance. It’s an entire culture. It’s something we can’t explain to outsiders.” It is truly an inexplicable scent, which is soon being seen and made popular by many perfume houses like Christian Dior, Tom Ford, Kilian, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Montale, Gucci, Dolce &Gabbana, Roja Parfums, YSL, etc. Most of these perfume houses have refined the Oud scent and tamed it for the Western market. In the Middle East, men in their white kandura and the women in their black abaya or burkha wear perfumes infused with Oud to create an aura and leave a mark of their presence in the room they enter or exit. It’s a means of expressing their style and personality.

The three perfumes that have captivated me with its mysticism and have been intricately created with Oud as the star ingredient include;

1. Oud for Greatness, Eau de Parfum, by Initio Parfums Privés

Now, this perfume is truly meant for greatness and great times! It’s the perfect composition for a barbeque evening in the desert. The saffron and oud are in harmony with the mellow lavender in the composition singing a nostalgic song in the evening purple-hued sky. The nutmeg, just like the barbeque heat, comforts the senses with its warmth in the cool air. Patchouli and musk complete this evening, leaving a feeling of satisfaction at the end.

2. Laialy, Eau de Parfum by Oud Elite

Just like “Laialy” which means night in Arabic, this perfume has a dark, mysterious, and intense character to it. The dusty, earthy, and sweet-spicy saffron along with patchouli brings out the best and most intense side of oud. This particular composition has been made by the ancient knowledge of the rare and precious infected wood. Men and women can adorn it for festive occasions with intricately embroidered clothing.

3. The Voice of Snake, The

Alchemist Garden collection, by Gucci

This perfume made me fall in love with Oud. After the initial hit of Oud wood, there is an alluring note of saffron, which is too tempting to let go. There also seems to be a generous amount of patchouli as well, adding to the cool and damp note of humid leaves on the forest floor on which these slippery yet mystical creatures of the underworld tread on and hiss to warn their predators of their presence. It is undoubtedly worn by the most striking men who dare to be noticed.

These are just some of the most impressive Oud perfumes I have encountered recently, and there are many more yet to be discovered. I hope you get to try these fragrances and invoke your adventurous side; until then stay safe and Happy Sniffing.

Malvika Barry is a Fragrance Evaluator at Identiscents FZC, Sharjah, United Arab Emirates

By Malvika Barry