Farm Indiana by HNE Media Magazines

june 2014 | Section a

Ruling the Roost

Everything you need to know about chickens

A12 Inside this section: a5 | market watch

B1 | Farm profile

Where to shop this season

Miniature donkeys at ASSphalt Acres

A12 | agritourism

B10 | expert advice

Great gardens around the state

Organic certification

A3 Food Preservation A4 National Dairy Month A6 Renting Farm Land A8 How to Raise Chickens A14 Hard Way Farms B4 Grant Options: Part 2 B6 CUE at Butler University B8 Farm Service Agency B9 2014 Fair Preview B12 Eat Local B16 June Events

ABOVE: A Barred Plymouth Rock chicken at the home of Andrew Brake, founder of Nap Town Chickens. RIGHT, TOP: Garfield Park Conservatory. RIGHT, BOTTOM: Signature roasted lamb shank with garlic mashed potatoes at J K O'Donnell's Irish Ale House.

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

>> Editor’s Note

On a Mission R ecently, I shared a post on Facebook that gave me cause to chuckle. It simply said: Those who don’t know me think I’m quiet. People who do know me wish I was. If you asked my husband, I suspect he’d say this was very, very true. When we first met, some 10 years ago, he didn’t think I liked him much. I barely said a word. At the time, we were simply acquaintances in a large group of friends, and I didn’t, in fact, have much to say. Truth was (and still is): I don’t do well with small talk. Over the years, I’ve become well-acquainted with awkward silences, thanks to my own lack of social skills, and I suspect that may be why I prefer to write, why I dove headfirst into journalism so many years ago. Throughout my life, I’ve been accused of having poor communication skills — save for the communication that comes of putting words onto paper. So it was nothing new for me when I found myself in another awkward silence at a recent agribusiness meeting. Moments after we’d gone through rounds of introductions, during which I’d announced my position with Home News Enterprises as editor of Farm Indiana, South magazine and TravelIN magazine, a local farmer spoke up about the problems she most often experiences. She suffers, she said, from not having an avenue with which to educate customers (and potential customers) about her

products, services and about the agriculture industry in general. When she had events planned at the farm, she explained, she had no way to get the word out. When there were issues surrounding farming, she had no method of sharing her experiences and thoughts on those issues. This came from a farm owner who had previously been profiled in Farm Indiana. The talk continued while I sat silently, feeling a little like an elephant in the room. Those in attendance discussed ways to get the word out. A website was mentioned. A possible day at the local county fair was mentioned. Never discussed was that at their service is a local farm publication that sees a distribution of 30,000 each month. Also not mentioned: The editor of that farm publication was sitting right there in the room. It wasn’t mentioned, I should say, until I finally spoke up. I’ve heard these comments from farmers before. Many feel there’s not one good method of communication to get the word out to folks about their operations. And I’m here to say: That’s why we’re here. Sitting in that meeting was eye-opening for me. Each month, I like to think that people see our paper and realize the potential that it holds. Last month, I wrote in this very space about our intent: to showcase farmers, to celebrate Indiana’s farming heritage, to highlight local agritourism. But I’m learning that I need to be more transparent. That I need to not only talk about our purpose more regularly, but maybe I need to better explain it. Maybe I need to enunciate. Maybe, some days, I just need to shout. Farm Indiana is here, and we’re growing. We’re expanding our reach. We’re building our customer base, and we want to take you along with us. Sure, we only have a limited number of pages each issue, so we can’t print everything we’d like to say. Indeed, we want to remain focused with our content, so some of your story ideas might not fit. But there’s a great deal of potential for a working relationship between us, the media, and you, the farmers. Rarely, do I encourage others to take advantage of me, but in this instance I’m OK with it. Our purpose here is to celebrate local farming and food, to highlight our state’s unique contributions to this industry, to spread the word about you. If you feel there is a lack of connection between you and your customers, please write to us, call us and tell us your story. We’re here to listen and to help you tell your tale. In short, we want to help you succeed.

A Home News Enterprises Publication A monthly publication of Home News Enterprises, Farm Indiana offers the local news and views of Indiana’s farming world, including features about local families and their farms, agriculture businesses, equipment and technological advances, educational outreach programs and more. Farm Indiana promotes and celebrates Indiana’s rich history and tradition in farming; serves as a conduit of information among growers, producers, farmers, retailers, farming organizations and local food consumers; educates readers about the nutritional, social and financial importance of local food support and consumption; and highlights Indiana local foods and agritourism.

PUBLISHER | Chuck Wells EDITOR | Sherri Lynn Dugger CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Cissy Bowman, Cheryl Carter Jones, Jessica Ervin, David Hoppe, Paige Langenderfer, Teresa Nicodemus, Barney Quick, Jon Shoulders, Clint Smith, Ryan Trares, Twinkle VanWinkle COPY EDITOR | Katharine Smith SENIOR GRAPHIC ARTIST | Amanda Waltz ADVERTISING DESIGN Emma Ault, Hollie Brown, Dondra Brown, Tonya Cassidy, Julie Daiker, Ben Hill, Phillip Manning, Josh Meyer, Desiree Poteete, Tina Ray, Kelsey Ruddell, Robert Wilson

PHOTOGRAPHER | Josh Marshall

Comments, story ideas, events and suggestions should be sent to Sherri Lynn Dugger, The Republic, 333 Second St., Columbus, IN 47201, call (812) 379-5608 or email farmindiana@hnenewspapers.com. For advertising information, call (812) 379-5690. To subscribe to Farm Indiana, call (800) 435-5601. 12 issues (1 year) will be mailed to your home for $24. Back issue dates may also be requested for $5 per copy.

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

Making the Most of your Garden Harvest By cheryl carter jones No sooner is your garden planted than it is time to start preparing for the harvest. For those of you just getting started with gardening and preserving food, I strongly recommend you purchase the minimum accessories and equipment needed before deciding whether food preservation is really for you. Most of what you need may already be in your kitchen.

in between layers. Immediately freeze them (if they sit out, they will turn brown) until solid and then put them in freezer bags and promptly return to the freezer. If you do not freeze on a cookie sheet prior to bagging, the fries will freeze to each other.

Kitchen Utensils/Items

Canning

Some of the basics that you will want to have include measuring spoons, measuring cups, cutting/paring knives, ladle, vegetable peeler, large wooden spoon, permanent marker for labeling, food strainer, dish rags, potholders and a stack of placemats. Why a stack of placements you ask? I fully credit my mother for this idea. When canning, you are dealing with very hot items (such as a water bath to sterilize jars/lids/rings and a pressure canner for processing). Those items are large. Placing them on a stack of placemats ensures they are stable and do not tilt over, causing someone to get severely burned. Bath towels would work, too, if you do not have placemats. Finally, if you are half as messy as I am, you will either want an apron or old clothes to wear. In time, you may want to add items such as a strawberry huller, pea sheller, cherry pitter, apple corer and wedger, food chopper, corn scraper/zipper (I prefer using a knife), a cabbage shredder or a cabbage corer. But these things certainly are not crucial.

Freezing

Freezing can be a great place to start for the novice preservationist. So little is required and for the most part, it is relatively easy. Many vegetables can be cleaned, cut, placed in a freezer bag and frozen, but please check a book or online before making that assumption with every vegetable. All you need for freezing: freezer bags. We always freeze bell peppers and diced onions to add to a pizza or for those times when you only need a little. You can open the bags, take out what you need and return the rest immediately to the freezer — no waste. If you raise a good number of potatoes, you might want to try a french fry or curly fry maker. I have both. French fry cutters are not all created equal, so buyer beware. If it is not sturdy enough (cutters need to be stainless steel), then it will not be able to cut through a potato. You want a sturdy handle as well because that is where you will apply pressure. If you buy one, I suggest after cutting the fries, you lay them out flat on a cookie sheet. You can stack multiple layers by placing parchment paper

Some things can be processed simply in a water bath, while others require pressure canning. Beginners, please always use a canning cookbook — do not guess. It will clearly tell you which process is required. I highly recommend the Ball canning book, and Kerr’s canning guide is good, as well. Canning requires investing in canning jars. There are various sizes that you can purchase. New lids are required every year, unless you purchase reusable lids, which are available on the market. The rings are reusable, and once the jars seal, the rings can be removed. A tip: Removing the rings helps you later tell if your food has spoiled. If the seal breaks and there is no ring in place to hold the lid on, the lid will slide easily off the jar when you take it out for use. If the lid slides off, toss the food. Chances are it has spoiled. You will need to sterilize your jars, lids and rings before use. Lid sterilizing racks are nice because you do not have to fish the lids out of the scalding hot water after sterilizing them. Any store that offers canning supplies will also have sets that typically include a magnet for retrieving the lids, a bubble freer (a knife-like instrument that you slide around the inside of the jar to remove any air bubbles before processing) and a jar lifter — all good investments when canning. Both water bath stations and pressure canners can be used for preserving foods, and both cost anywhere from $100 to around $500 each, depending on the brand and size you choose. A water bath limits what you are able to can, but it can be an economical way to get started. Pressure canners come in a variety of sizes. As a beginner, think about getting one the size that you can use for other things in case canning does not pan out for you. My mother and I can food together. She has a standard-size pressure canner, which holds seven quart jars or nine pint jars. I purchased one that can hold 14 quart-size jars. They make pressure canners that are even larger, but when they are full, they are very heavy. More so, you have to be careful not to get one too big if you have a ceramic stovetop. The weight can damage it. As pressure canners

get larger, you also run a greater risk of it not heating up evenly or of the processing taking longer. My personal preference is to get a pressure canner with an automatic pressure gauge, which eliminates the need to have it tested annually. Before purchasing, I highly recommend reading reviews on a product. Pressure canners are an investment that you want to educate yourself on before buying.

Dehydration

Drying food is becoming more popular. You can find websites offering step-by-step instructions for building a solar food dehydrator. My mother has had a small stackable dehydrator for some years, and it works well. Again, because we do a lot together and also because I am looking at making teas and herbs for my farm market, I purchased a very nice Excalibur dehydrator. You only need it if you are really going to do some serious dehydrating. One advantage is that one or several of the trays may be removed to allow for larger items to be dehydrated, such as whole apples.

Fermentation

Interest in fermented foods is increasing these days, thanks to their nutritional benefits. All you really need to ferment foods is a stone crock with a lid and a weight to hold the lid down firmly. The crock does not have to be new. You might find one at an antique shop. If you do, however, check it very carefully for hairline cracks. Bear Hardware in Nashville has a great assortment of stoneware, and you can find numerous sources online to guide you in the fermentation process.

Cheryl Carter Jones is an Indiana farmer and president of the Local Growers’ Guild, a cooperative of farmers, retailers and community members dedicated to strengthening the local food economy in southern Indiana through education, direct support and market connections. For more information on the guild, visit www.localgrowers.org.

Determining what you want to preserve and how you want to go about preserving it takes some time, and in certain instances, a sizable upfront investment in equipment. Our ancestors, not so very long ago, did this all the time with very little equipment. Think through your purchases beforehand. After all, you need to consider the return on your investment. For more information, consult your local extension office or the National Center for Home Food Preservation (www.nchfp.uga.edu).

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

Milk Made We explore the cream of the crop for National Dairy Month By barney quick

ndiana’s dairy industry has proven itself to be resilient as it has weathered challenges over the years, and dairy farmers remain optimistic, but cautious. “It looks like this year’s milk prices will be good,” says Nico Niessen, proprietor of Milco Dairy in Lewisville. “We are more dependent on exports now than a couple of years ago. If some political or economic event happened somewhere in the world, that could affect things.”

Conditions in the dairy industry are certainly better than they were in 2009. “We endured a perfect storm that year,” Leman explains. “The general economy was in bad shape, there was a drop in export demand and the price of milk was way below the cost of production, the lowest in almost 30 years.” The loss of equity per cow thinned the ranks of Indiana producers, particularly in the southern part of the state. Most dairy activity is now concentrated in the northeast. Dairy cow breeds

Provided by the Indiana Dairy Council and Purdue University

There are more than 1,200 dairy farms in Indiana, 97 percent of which are family-owned.

The Indiana Dairy Association presents “30 Dairies in 30 Days,” an online program that features 30 Indiana dairy farms through pictures, stories and recipes throughout the month of June. For more information, visit indianadairycouncil.org/30dairies.

The average herd size per farm is 129 cows. Indiana ranks 13th in both milk production and number of dairy cows. Currently, there are approximately 177,000 dairy cows in the state, according to Michael M. Schutz, professor of animal sciences at Purdue University. The state has seen a 75 percent increase in

Exports currently comprise about 20 percent of Indiana’s dairy market. Much of the demand comes from China. In June, Doug Leman, executive director of Indiana Dairy Producers, will be part of the lieutenant governor’s agricultural trade mission to China. “All of ag sees it as a huge potential market,” Leman says. “We hope to meet with trade officials. The goal of the trip is to build relationships.”

found in Indiana include Holstein, Jersey and Brown Swiss, with Holsteins remaining the majority breed raised in the state. “The most value in milk is in the volume,” explains Michael M. Schutz, professor of animal sciences at Purdue University. “The driver here in the United States is fluid milk. It has 3.6 percent fat, and Holsteins still meet that demand.” *FI

milk production since 1997. “Indiana has adopted technology and best-management practices to improve milk production per cow,” Schutz says. The average cow produces 90 glasses of milk every day and nearly 200,000 glasses of milk in her lifetime.

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

marketwatch

INCREDIBLE

edibles

Blue skies and fresh, local foods are finally here again. Farmers market season is now in full swing, so we suggest you grab your reusable bags, your wallet and your appetite and head for one of these central Indiana spots to shop.

Columbus City Farmers Market features local growers, producers and artists. Time: 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Saturdays. Location: Fair Oaks Mall parking lot, 2380 25th St., Columbus. Information: (812) 378-0539

Bloomington Community Farmers Market opens for its 40th season, featuring locally grown produce, plants and a variety of prepared foods. Time: 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays. Location: 401 N. Morton St., Bloomington. Information: bloomington. in.gov/farmersmarket

Columbus Farmers Market features locally grown fruits and vegetables, sweet honey, baked goods, fresh flower bouquets and entertainment. Time: 9 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. Saturdays. Location: May 31, Fourth Street between Washington and Jackson streets in downtown Columbus. Beginning June 7, 501 Brown St. in the Cummins parking lot in downtown Columbus near Mill Race Park. Information: columbusfarmersmarket.org

Broad Ripple Farmers Market, sponsored by the Broad Ripple Village Association, offers locally grown and produced foods like honey, meats and dairy products, as well as a wide selection of ready-to-eat food to enjoy while you shop. Time: 8 a.m. to noon Saturdays. Location: Back parking lot of Broad Ripple High School, 1115 Broad Ripple Ave., Indianapolis. Information: broadripplefarmersmarket.org

Jennings County Farmers Market is a seasonal open air market featuring fruits, vegetables, herbs and flowers raised by local farmers. Time: 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays. Location: North Vernon City Park, Shelter 2. Information: (812) 346-9371

Greenfield Farmers Market is the place to find fresh produce, fruits, meats and other local products. Time: 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays. Location: Corner of State Road 9 and North Street. Information: facebook.com/ GreenfieldFarmersMarket

Morgan County Farmers Market Association provides a venue for consumers to purchase locally grown fresh produce and goods in two locations: Mooresville and Martinsville. Mooresville: Time: 3 to 6 p.m. Wednesdays. Location: South Church Street, Mooresville. Martinsville: 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays. Location: 180 S. Main St., Martinsville. Information: (618) 567-2693, facebook.com/MorganCounty FarmersMarket

Greenwood Farmers Market features a large list of local vendors offering honey, fresh produce and prepared foods. Time: 8 a.m. to noon. Saturdays. Location: Greenwood United Methodist Church, 525 N. Madison Ave., Greenwood. Information: (317) 8857665, facebook.com/pages/Green wood-Farmers-Market/85117929397

Farm to Fork Market offers locally grown vegetables, meats and prepared meals. Time: 4 to 7 p.m. Fridays. Location: Normandy Farm, 7802 Marsh Road, Indianapolis. Information: farmtoforkmarket.org

Carmel Farmers Market is mostly an edibles-only market, except for annuals and perennials. With only a few exceptions, all products are grown and produced in Indiana. Includes children’s activities, demonstrations and live music. Time: 8 to 11:30 a.m. Saturdays. Location: 5 Center Green, Carmel. Information: carmelfarmersmarket.com

Franklin Farmers Market offers locally grown fruits and vegetables, art and crafts and fresh flowers. Time: 8 to 11 a.m. Saturdays. Location: Corner of Jefferson and Jackson streets in downtown Franklin. Information: (317) 3461258, discoverdowntownfranklin.com

Fortville Farmers Market, sponsored by the Fortville McCordsville Chamber of Commerce, runs through Sept. 26. Time: 4 to 7 p.m. Thursdays. Location: Fortville Church of the Nazarene, 701 S. Maple St., Fortville. Information: facebook.com/FortvilleFarmersMarket

Harvest Market at the Fairgrounds, sponsored by the Hancock Harvest Council and the 4-H Ag Association, is a diversified market featuring local products like meats, eggs, fruits, vegetables, baked goods and crafts. Time: 8 a.m. to noon Wednesdays and Saturdays. Location: 620 N. Apple St., Greenfield. Information: (765) 7630246, hoosierharvestcouncil.com/ farmers-markets/farmers-market-at-thefairgrounds

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Old National Centre Farmers Market brings local farmers to one central location in downtown Indianapolis three times a month to provide the community with fresh, locally grown foods. Time: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., every Friday except the first Friday of the month. Location: 502 N. New Jersey St., Indianapolis. Information: (317) 231-0000, ext. 229

Original Farmers Market, located at City Market in downtown Indianapolis, offers fresh produce, meats, eggs, cheeses, honey, syrups and goods of more than 60 Indiana vendors. Time: 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Wednesdays. Location: Market Street between Alabama and Delaware streets, Indianapolis. Information: indycm.com Seymour Farmers Market features local crafts, fresh produce and more. Time: 7 a.m. to noon Mondays and Saturdays. Location: City parking lot at Walnut Street and St. Louis Avenue, Seymour. Information: (812) 358-6101 Mainstreet Shelbyville Farmers Market celebrates local fresh food in a central location on the square. Time: 4 to 7 p.m. Wednesdays and 8 a.m. to noon Saturdays. Location: 501 N. Harrison St., Shelbyville. Information: (317) 398-9552, mainstreetshelbyville.org/ index.php/farmersmarket Zionsville Farmers Market serves local, fresh produce, meats and cheeses. Enjoy live music and other special events throughout the season. Time: 8 to 11 a.m. Saturdays. Location: Corner of South Main Street and West Hawthorne Street, Zionsville. Information: farmersmarketzionsville@gmail.com, zionsvillefarmersmarket.org

Farm Indiana // june 2014

In Search of Land

Finding a place to sow remains a major obstacle for future farmers By ryan trares

ver the rolling hills and flat plains of Johnson County, more than 140,000 acres of farmland is starting to sprout this year’s bounty. Much of the land has remained in the same families for generations, passed down and accumulated over the years. Some of it has been rented to new farmers. But small-scale farms are also springing up in vacant lots, city properties and neighborhoods. The land is out there to be tilled, seeded and harvested. Connecting to it is the obstacle. For those who are just starting in the farming business, people who have small amounts of land who want to grow more or urban residents

who need space for crop beds, their foremost need is land. Many have found that renting is the best option. With some basic planning, and with the help of local and national resources, finding that perfect piece of land is made much easier. “The ones who are really determined and have a plan, are really smart about it to save up money and know what kind of land they want, they can find access to farmland,” said Tracy Bruckner, senior policy associate for the Center for Rural Affairs. “It’s not for the faint of heart.” According to a survey by the National Young Farmers Coalition, access to land is one of the

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most pressing problems facing emerging farmers. Only start-up money is of more concern. Part of the problem stems from an otherwise positive development for farmers. Since the early 2000s, farmland has experienced a tremendous growth in value. Crop prices have gone up, making that land needed to grow worth more. In 2000, average land in Johnson County was worth $2,372 per acre. By 2013, that number was $8,170 per acre. Along with that value, rental rates have also increased. Rental land was going for $189 per acre in 2013, compared to $149 in 2010, according to the National Agricultural Statistics Service. “It’s not something you can do lightly without planning, due to the property values and cashrental rates we’ve seen skyrocket,” Bruckner said. The Center for Rural Affairs, an advocate group for farmers, offers land matching services to connect emerging farmers to existing land. Older farmers nearing retirement are realizing that they don’t have anyone to take over the farm for them. Rather than sell the land, they can be paired with someone looking to work their land for rent. The challenge is creating incentives for established farmers to give up some of their land. “If we just continue to consolidate land in rural communities in the hands of a few people, and we don’t worry about keeping widespread access and ownership, that’s a real problem for the health of the community,” Bruckner said. One of the programs that the center has helped champion is the Conservation Reserve Program Transition Incentive. Farmers who have land in the conservation reserve program, but don’t plan to re-enroll it in the program, can rent and sell that land to beginning agriculturists. In return, the farmer receives an additional two years of subsidies through the reserve program. “People have to be creative, because the current structure is working against them,” Bruckner said. “That’s why we try to find ways to use federal programs to provide that incentive to landowners to let go of the reins a little bit, to get a beginning farmer on that land.” Rural areas are the most obvious places to look for farming land. But in recent years, the desire to raise food and the growth of suburban centers have left agriculture-minded residents looking for an outlet for their green thumbs.

When Nancy Schmutzler decided to start growing chemical-free natural produce to sell at local farm markets, she needed a place to set up her operation. Schmutzler’s operation might be considered a micro-farm, with only 30 raised beds containing tomatoes, carrots, kale and field greens. To find the land she needed, Schmutzler had to look beyond traditional farmland. She and her husband, Scott, found eight acres in the northern part of Brown County. The only problem was, seven of those acres were wooded. The portion that is cleared has marginal soils that have required her to constantly compost, as well as build raised beds. The heavy clay soils are better for beans, peppers, tomatoes, greens and herbs. Other vegetables, such as carrots, beets and radishes, go in the raised beds. “I’m working on improving the soil, so I can grow things better,” she said. Schmutzler found her own land. But many community farming programs provide people with a small plot of land to work and raise food on their own. Indianapolis has spearheaded an urban farming program, which allows community groups and individuals to make use of abandoned and vacant land in the city’s land bank for growing food. After applying to join the program, people can choose from a list of empty properties on which to start farming. There is no cost to join, though participants are asked to report their progress to the city each year. Other communities, such as Greenwood, and area churches have started their own gardens as well. Franklin has offered small plots to urban farmers for the past 10 years. “A lot of people don’t have access to any space where they can grow their own food,” said Holly Johnston, organizer of the program for Franklin Parks and Recreation. “For people in apartments or with small yards, it’s a place to be able to farm.” Franklin resident Stan Shafer started using the community space when it began a decade ago. He had been a longtime gardener at his previous house on the outskirts of Franklin, where he grew tomatoes, corn, green beans and peppers. But after moving to a home near downtown, he had no space to plant a proper plot of vegetables. “I used to plant a large amount of stuff, but when I moved to town, I didn’t have the room to anymore,” he said. “The community garden gives me someplace to plant that otherwise I wouldn’t have.” *FI

Renting Farmland Rural Center for Rural Affairs What: Advice on getting access to land, help with financing and education from experienced farmers Information: cfra.org Farm Service Agency What: Beginning farmers can find information on loan programs to rent land Information: fsa.usda.gov National Young Farmers Coalition What: Resources for young farmers to find land to rent, as well as job postings Information: youngfarmers.org Beginning Farmers What: A compilation of information on farm financing, finding land, business planning, agricultural production and marketing Information: beginningfarmers.org

urban Indy Urban Garden Program What: Allows community groups and individuals to farm vacant lots in the city Information: indy.gov/eGov/City/DPW/ SustainIndy/Life/Garden/Pages/IndyUrban GardenProgram.aspx Greenwood Community Garden What: A community plot allowing both residents and non-residents to farm a 20-by-20-foot space Information: (317) 881-4545 or greenwood.in.gov Franklin Community Garden What: A community plot allowing both residents and non-residents to farm a 20-by-20-foot space Information: (317) 736-3689 or franklin.in.gov

Farm Indiana // june 2014

What you need to know about keeping and raising chickens

compiled By jon shoulders URBAN CHICKEN PHOTOS By JOSH MARSHALL hen the phrase “the incredible, edible egg” was coined in 1977 as part of an ad campaign for the American Egg Board, it aimed to emphasize the health benefits that egg producers nationwide felt their product provided. As many local farmers will attest, however, there is a lot more about chickens than just their dietary advantages that could be considered, if not “incredible,” at least perpetually practical. Veterans and first-time local farmers alike are exploring the benefits of adding chickens to their farms, porches and backyards — and not just for the eggs.

“Chickens are one of the most self-sustaining animals you’ll find.” — ANDREW BrAKE

“Chickens are one of the most selfsustaining animals you’ll find,” says Andrew Brake, founder of Nap Town Chickens, an educational and advocatory organization for urban chicken farming in Indianapolis. Brake currently raises chickens in his backyard for the eggs, but initially took up the practice as an alternative to installing a garbage disposal in

his house at his wife’s request five years ago. “They eat most everything, including chicken, and eventually turn it into an egg,” he says. “Essentially it’s alternative form of composting, so instead of getting soil at the end of every year, you get eggs at the end of every day. It’s pretty handy.” Brake, who co-owns Agrarian, an urban chicken farming and beekeeping supply store in the south Broad Ripple area of Indianapolis, points out that even eggshells have multiple eco-friendly uses. “There are folks who will bring the egg inside, crack it, crumple up the shell and feed it back to the chicken because it’s very high in calcium, which in turn helps them produce the next egg,” he says. “You can also use eggshells as a pesticide in your garden.” According to Roy Ballard, Purdue Extension educator in Hancock County, the benefits of keeping poultry are only reaped if they are properly cared for and safeguarded from threats that the immediate area, whether rural or urban, poses. “They will definitely need to be protected from predators, including neighbor’s pets and all of the wild animals that also have a taste for fresh pastured poultry,” Ballard says. “Poultry that is free ranging will also find some of your vegetable, fruit and ornamental plants to their liking as well and can cause some damage to plants that you may value with their pecking, scratching and dusting themselves.” Brake is quick to point out that the methods of urban chicken farming are much the same as in rural areas, and the differences lie rather in the scale of farming one chooses to undertake. “I sell to a guy who farms out in a rural area, and he uses a chicken coop that folks use in the city,” he says. “Some folks in an urban setting just let their birds run in the backyard, but of course you have to keep an eye on that. As long as they’re getting fresh insects, bugs

TOP: A Barred Plymouth Rock. ABOVE: Chickens run in a pen in the Brakes' backyard, which is also shared with lawn chairs and a fire pit. RIGHT: Andrew Brake and his wife, Lindsay, stand in front of their Kessler Boulevard home with one of their several chickens and one of their three goats. INSET: Brake’s neighbor, Miranda Render, 9, enjoys visiting the chickens, who recognize her. Render says the chickens come to the fence to look at her when she walks by.

and turf, then even if they’re confined they can still hunt and peck, which is what they want to do. With a mobile coop, you can achieve that even if you’re in the city, and they’re usually just as happy in a slightly smaller space than in a big space.” As rough as Indiana winters can get, most breeds don’t mind — indeed, many thrive — when temperatures plunge. “Each bird has 4,800 feathers on her, and most breeds are cold-hardy, except for some exotic breeds,” Brake says. “They can handle as cold as around negative 40 degrees, which is when you’d start thinking about providing additional heat like a heat lamp. But in this region, that’s not going to be an issue. They might get a little frostbit on the comb, but that’s not a big deal since it just falls off or in the spring it regenerates.” For such a seemingly low-maintenance animal, what difficulties can possibly arise? “Usually most problems that come up are because the farmer isn’t doing things correctly like ventilation, feeding, not having proper housing and proper run,” Brake says. “One of the most common problems is when a bird starts laying eggs that don’t

have a solid shell. That means they need more calcium in their diet. Conversely, a few no-nos for feeding are raw potatoes, avocados and anything with citrus.” Leg and foot disorders can have several causes, many of which are easily preventable. Vitamin D deficiencies, one of the most common culprits, can lead to soft bones and lameness. Eggs incubated in low humidity can be difficult to hatch, and chicks hatched in such conditions are also at risk for leg problems. Overly crowded feeding and watering stations can put stress on a bird’s legs and lead to ongoing issues. Most traits indicative of illness among chickens will start to show up within 24 hours of onset and can be physical — foggy or swelling eyes, nasal discharge and coughing — or behavioral — lethargy, weakness and poor laying. Farmers can decrease the risk of respiratory disease, one of the most common illnesses among birds, by making sure their coops are sufficiently ventilated. “It’s a habitual animal,” Brake says. “If one isn’t acting in the usual consistent manner, you can tell quickly.”

Farm Indiana // june 2014

Lay Terms

Most everyone knows the difference between a hen and a rooster, but what does it mean to raise a strain? Why should farmers be aware of potential fomites? What happens when a hen gets broody? Take a close look for some enlightenment on the terms of the chicken trade …

A bantam is a miniature chicken, about one-fourth to one-half the size of a regular-sized chicken. The beak is the protruding portion of a bird’s mouth, consisting of an upper beak and lower beak. Bedding is the straw, sand, paper and any additional material placed on the foundation of a coop to absorb moisture and manure.

The comb is the fleshy, usually red, crown on the top of a chicken’s head. Combs are usually larger on males. A dust bath is how chickens clean themselves. They don’t wash with water but instead use soil to clean their plumage. Fomites are inanimate objects such as shipping crates, feed sacks, clothing, shoes and tires that may harbor diseasecausing organisms.

Broilers are young chickens bred for their meat and are typically processed between 7 to 12 weeks of age. Sometimes they are referred to as fryers. A broody hen is intent on sitting for long periods of time brooding chicks (incubating them) after laying her eggs.

A fount is a water fountain or other watering device for a chicken. Hackles are the feathers over the back of a chicken that are pointed on males and rounded on females.

A coop constructed by Andrew Brake. He builds and sells the coops through his company, Nap Town Chickens.

A portable coop is a bottomless structure, often equipped with wheels, where hens lay and are kept safe from predators. Farmers often move these coops daily or weekly to allow chickens to scratch and feed on different areas of land. A pullet is a young female chicken, typically under 1 year of age.

A strain is a flock of related chickens selectively bred by one person or organization for an extended period of time, resulting in uniform appearance, characteristics and capabilities. Wattles are the fleshy, red or purplish growths that hang from the sides of a chicken’s beak.

A farmer’s run is his enclosed area connected to his chicken coop that allows chickens to roam freely. Scratch can refer either to the chicken habit of scraping their claws against the ground to dig up food or to a type of feed that often consists of cracked corn or grains.

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

Feed the Need

Breed Savvy

As spring comes into full swing, stock up on feed, baby poultry, equipment and supplies at the following spots.

A chicken is a chicken is a chicken, right? Not so much. After you’ve prepped your land and procured the necessary equipment, factor in the following when picking out purpose-specific breeds. You will need to decide on what type of birds you want. Are you looking for birds for meat consumption, layer hens or 4-H showing hens? Make those decisions ahead of time so you avoid any costly mistakes.

Glenn’s Valley Feed & Seed 8241 Bluff Road, Indianapolis, (317) 888-7887 Country Mart 1075 E. Second St., Columbus, (812) 375-9604

Australorp

Ameraucana

Buff Orpington

Weighing in between 7 and 9 pounds, Australorps lay light brown eggs, commonly sport black feathers that give off green tones in sunlight and are usually even-tempered.

Best known for their light blue or green eggs, Ameraucanas lay around 250 eggs a year and are not typically raised for meat.

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A popular egg bird, this breed is large in size and typically heavy. Farmers often use Orpingtons for meat at the end of their egg-laying life.

Shelby Farm Supply 3064 W. Old Franklin Road, Shelbyville, (317) 392-4397

Cornish Cross

Jersey Giant

A fast-growing meat bird with large legs and thighs, broad breasts and yellow skin. The typical harvest time for a 4-pound Cornish Cross is around 7 to 9 weeks.

Orscheln Farm & Home 3603 W. State Road 46, Bloomington, (812) 876-4600 1875 E. Main St., Greenfield, (317) 462-9339 1501 E. Tipton St., Seymour, (812) 522-3651 2549 E. State Road 44, Shelbyville, (317) 392-3341 www.orschelnfarmhome.com

Leghorn

The Giant’s average weight is 11 to 13 pounds, taking around six months to grow to maturity. Typically a meat chicken, these are also considered dual-purpose birds. They lay extra-large brown eggs.

An efficient white egg layer, Leghorns are popular with large-scale factory farms for their ability to lay an average of one egg per day. AP PHOTO

Kritzer’s Feed Store 4245 E. State Road 46, Nashville, (812) 988-7100 Agrarian 661 E. 49th St., Indianapolis, (317) 493-1166 www.agrarianindy.com Rural King 2985 N. National Road, Columbus (812) 378-0280 1800 S. Ohio St., Martinsville, (765) 352-2980 1800 State Road 44, Shelbyville, (317) 392-7739 www.ruralking.com

Maran

A typically medium-sized breed, the Maran is well known for laying chocolate brown eggs.

Barred Plymouth Rock

Rhode Island Red

A breed of several varieties, the most popular being white and barred. They are typically docile and friendly, making for a great starter bird for newbies. They can be used for meat or brown egg production.

A popular brown egg layer that is (perhaps unsurprisingly) the state bird of Rhode Island. RIRs usually lay an average of one egg per day and are also considered a dual-purpose breed.

Wanamaker Feed & Seed 4410 Northeastern Ave., Indianapolis, (317) 862-4032 Jackson Jennings Farm & Pet 1021 W. Tipton St., Seymour, (812) 523-9607, farmpet.jacksonjennings.com

Making Their House Their Home Mickey A. Latour and Todd J. Applegate of the Department of Animal Sciences at Purdue University created helpful hints for folks new to keeping chickens in a document online, called “Getting Started with the Home Poultry Flock.” Here are some of their suggestions on preparing a place for your new chickens. For more tips, visit extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/AS/AS-568-W.pdf. • Investigate and determine if there are any zone, community or local restrictions limiting the size of flock or prohibiting you from having birds.

• Home flocks should be given space at approximately 3-by-3-feet per bird. If you want 20 birds, you will need 180 square feet of floor space, which is equal to a 10-by-18-foot pen.

• When building a shelter, think about the potential threat of predators, like raccoons, coyotes, cats and dogs. You may need to bury fencing wire underground to prevent any predators from digging their way into the coop. Be sure the fence wire size is small enough to prevent other critters, like minks and weasels, from accessing the birds. Also, decide whether you will want to run electricity or water to the facility and position your shelter appropriately. Choose a location that drains well after heavy rains.

• For bedding, choose pine shavings, rice hulls, ground corn cobs or sand, which allows for excellent drainage. Avoid using hardwood shavings, which can encourage mold growth.

• Latour and Applegate say the most neglected and overlooked nutrient is water. “In many cases, humans walk by what appears to be a bowl of ‘clean water,’ but, in fact, it may contain millions of bacteria.” Fresh water should be provided daily. Clean the water bowls and dispensers at least once a week.

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

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Darby Simpson, owner of Simpson Family Farm in Martinsville and meat chicken farmer since 2007, weighs in with six tips first-timers should observe.

Reduce Risk

To GMO or not to GMO

Mend the Maladies

Strike a balance between giving your chickens the space they need and keeping them safe. “If you let them roam too much then they themselves will be eaten,” Simpson says. “We have them in our portable chicken tractors, which we move every day with them inside. There’s no floor so it’s still a natural environment, and they’re eating bugs, clover, alfalfa, perennial grasses and those kinds of things. There’s nothing wrong with letting them out to roam, but the predation issues are a concern, and they’re still very comfortable and healthy in the portable tractors.”

Simpson Family Farm uses non-GMO (genetically modified organisms) feed, an increasingly popular practice due to a recent rise in consumer demand. “With non-GMO you’re not eating anything that’s been sprayed with chemicals,” Simpson says. “But it tends to cost more, and it’s harder to source.”

“With meat chickens, one problem you can have is when they grow too fast and have a heart attack, so manage their feed intake and make sure their protein ration is not too high,” Simpson says. “One thing I use for the heart issue is a little apple cider vinegar in their drinking water. That helps digestion and liver function, too. You’ll also occasionally see leg issues, where the legs don’t develop properly, and they can’t keep up. You can get them supplemental calcium and Vitamin D to get them back on their feet.”

Location, Location, Location

Equip the Coop

Consider a CSA

Allowing your chickens to get acclimated to their surroundings can be instrumental in egg production. “Layers are extremely finicky about everything in their environment: their surroundings, habits and routine,” he says. “When it comes to laying hens, anytime you make a change — where the nest box is located, where they roost, where they live, what they eat, et cetera, it is going to negatively affect production. The more you change, the worse it will be and the longer it can take for them to bounce back.”

Simpson stresses the need for keeping birds well-fed and hydrated. “A bell-style automatic waterer is handy, which works on gravity,” Simpson says. He also recommends a “Reel Feeder,” manufactured by Brower Equipment, for feeding pastured poultry. “They don’t tip; they hold an enormous amount of grain and will take a beating. Holding enough grain is something that is often overlooked when raising fast-growing meat birds.”

Simpson adds that establishing your own community supported agriculture (CSA) program is a convenient way for customers to purchase directly from your farm. “The consumer saves money versus full retail price, and they’re picking it up direct from us while it’s fresh,” he says. “The benefit for us is that we get a deposit up front, earlier in the year when we don’t have much product left to sell. Then the customer pays their balance a few months later.”

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

A shaving brush tree at Garfield Park Conservatory & Sunken Garden

Great Garden Escapes

Find hidden Indiana gems that are blooming with flowers, art and tranquility compiled By Teresa Nicodemus

From city gardens to homespun paths through miles of rich Indiana soil, find yourself in the peacefulness of a beautiful garden. Here are five blooming places around the Hoosier state that are ready to be explored. Indianapolis

Garfield Park Conservatory & Sunken Garden A balmy 70-degree breeze greets guests who enter the conservatory at Garfield Park. Narrow winding paths are bordered with brilliantly colored orchids, gardenias, hibiscus, jasmine and more. Take the self-guided tour and move clockwise through the conservatory following the brochure and seeking the numbered signs that explain the various indigenous trees and plants from the tropics, including the cacao (chocolate) tree, banana tree, the Sago palm, with its rough, nubby bark, and the massive shaving brush tree that sprouts fluffy pink blossoms, resembling a shaving brush. A small pond with brilliant orange and white koi, as well as a tumbling waterfall, completes the tropical effect. The temperature inside is maintained year-round through a boiler system within the conservatory. “We try to keep it in the 70s, but the temperature inside can be influenced by weather elements,” explains Fritz Nerding, manager of Garfield Park Conservatory & Sunken Garden. “If it is extremely cold outside, it may drop into the 50s in the conservatory.” The 10,000-square-foot conservatory, with its 35-foot ceiling, is home to hundreds of tropical plants and large trees, which must be trimmed back annually to keep them from breaking the glass in the ceiling. “People enjoy coming to the conservatory,” says Nerding. “It is a relaxing, carefree place to be. The cost is $1 per person or $3 for an event. I hear people say it’s the best dollar they have ever spent.” Situated in front of the conservatory outside is the Sunken Garden. A striking contrast to the wild, tropical feel inside, the sunken garden is of formal European design with symmetrical features and ornately designed paver paths surrounding three waterfalls and flower beds. MidMay, says Nerding, is one of the busiest times for the garden as the five staff members and dozens of volunteers plant 15,000 annuals. The best bloom time for the garden is the second week of June, when the annuals are in full bloom. In the fall, the annuals are dug up and approximately 10,000 tulip bulbs are planted to await a glorious spring bloom. Garfield Park Conservatory & Sunken Garden 2505 Conservatory Drive, Indianapolis (317) 327-7183, garfieldgardensconservatory.org

richmond

Richmond Rose Garden Roses have been synonymous with Richmond since the early 1970s when Hills Rose Growers settled there and became the main sellers of cut roses around the world. Richmond, also known as “Rose City,” established the Richmond Rose Garden in 1987. There, a colorful rainbow of 1,200 roses planted in 18 beds surrounds guests as they walk along brick paths. A quaint, white Victorian gazebo stands in the center of the garden, a sentinel and a reminder of the community effort that built the garden one brick—and one rose—at a time. The bricks, known as star bricks, lined the first sidewalks of the city in the early 1900s. These hallmarks of old Richmond were stockpiled and then donated to the garden in the late ’80s, according to Beth Van Der Burgt, president of the Richmond Rose Garden Board. These days, the garden is maintained by “a dedicated team of 50 volunteers, who mulch the garden in the spring and consistently weed and deadhead the bushes throughout the summer to keep them looking pristine,” Van Der Burgt says. The garden, designated an All American Rose Display Garden by the All American Rose Selection Board, is an amalgamation of 200 varieties of roses, such as Julia Child yellow roses, Cinco de Mayo roses in rich reddish-brown shades and St. Patrick roses with green buds that bloom a brilliant yellow. Richmond Rose Garden Glen Miller Park 2500 U.S. 40, Richmond, (765) 983-7275, richmondrosegarden.com Open 365 days a year

Conservatory: Open year-round, Mondays through Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sunday 1 to 5 p.m. Sunken Garden: Open yearround, Mondays through Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sunday 1 to 5 p.m.; April through October, gates are open until 9 p.m. daily photos By josh marshall The sunken garden. CIRCLE: Koi fish greet visitors.

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Photo courtesy of Azalea Path Arboretum and Botanical Gardens

Farm Indiana // june 2014

mooresville

Willowfield Lavender Farm Elegant fields of lavender may draw guests in, but it’s Willowfield Lavender Farm owners Kieran and Elizabeth O’Connor who invite them to stay a while. Saunter through the acres of lavender at Willowfield, then buy a picnic basket, overflowing with lavender cuisine, from chicken salad and lavender roasted walnuts to lavender shortbread cookies, and head to a spot in the grass to enjoy music surrounded by a purple haze. A barn sits adjacent to the lavender fields where guests can purchase fabric from France, lavender lotions and soaps made by Elizabeth and lavenderscented candles and sachets created using the property’s fresh supply. The farm is a dream that became a reality 14 years ago when the O’Connors planted their first 100 lavender plants. Now, with almost four acres of approximately 2,000 thriving lavender plants, the couple has a unique gift — in one scent — that they wish to share with all who visit. Growing lavender is a labor of love for the O’Connors. They have traveled extensively in southern France, specifically to Provence, the mecca for commercial lavender, to gain knowledge of how to cultivate and use lavender not only for its beauty purposes, but also for its medicinal and culinary qualities as well. Hundreds of visitors flock to the garden during peak bloom in June. Kieran shares his knowledge of growing lavender with tour groups and anyone with an inquisitive mind. “Lavender likes full sun; it originated in the Mediterranean,” he explains. “It also needs well-drained soil, since it is a drought-tolerant plant. We rely on Mother Nature for watering.” Weeding is a never-ending job, Kieran says. “I keep a spade in my pocket at all times when walking the fields.”

Beverly and Steve Knight’s sprawling 80-acre property that spans Pike and Gibson counties holds a 25-acre jewel, the Azalea Path Arboretum and Botanical Gardens, where guests will find azaleas, cypress trees, spring-fed lakes, waterfalls and three miles of walking trails amid stunning scenery. The Knights bought the property in 1979. Beverly says her garden came from humble beginnings. “I was a UPS driver, so I have been in every yard in the whole tri-state area,” she recalls. “So my garden is a combination of everyone’s yards. I would see a tree I liked or a flower, and I would plant it. I love azaleas. They are a beautiful Southern flower. I wanted my garden to look like a Southern plantation. I believe I have accomplished that.” With more than 4,000 azalea plants and at least 400 varieties, Azalea Path is hailed as one of the largest collections of azaleas in the Midwest. She plants new trees every year, from weeping willows, native redbuds and dogwoods to white pines, Virginia pines and yellow magnolia trees. A mimosa tree towers in her garden, and cypress trees surround each of her lakes. A pine grove sits adjacent to one of the walking trails, where 25 trees were destroyed by a small tornado in 2004. To make the best of the situation, Beverly hired a local company of chainsaw artists to carve life into the ragged stumps. Now woven into the grove are wooden angels, herons and gnomes. Steve built a conference center and 4,000-square-foot covered cedar deck to host conferences and weddings. “We have weddings booked every weekend after Mother’s Day through the end of October,” Beverly says. “The wedding business is used to help support the garden.”

Willowfield Lavender Farm 6176 Smokey View Road, Mooresville (317) 831-7980, willowfieldlavender.com Hours: Open June 3 through Sept. 20 (tentatively), Tuesdays through Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Azalea Path Arboretum and Botanical Gardens Inc. 1502 N. County Road 825W, Hazelton (812) 354-3039 April through May, daily, 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.; June through October, Tuesdays through Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

hazelton

Azalea Path Arboretum and Botanical Gardens

utica

Hidden Hill Nursery & Sculpture Garden Retiring from The Courier-Journal in Louisville, Ky., after a 33-year journalism career, Bob Hill began his second career — gardening — almost by accident. Bob and his wife, Janet, had purchased an eightacre patch of land in Utica in 1975. “It was basically a field of weeds with an 1860 farmhouse with a tin roof,” says Bob. “We moved in and remodeled the home.” With the purchase of the property, Hidden Hill Nursery was born. Initially, the Hills simply wanted to landscape their garden. “I sat on the back porch, and there was nothing out there,” Bob says. He began planting trees, first a sugar maple, a golden rain tree and a pin oak tree. Inspired by the botanical gardens in Chicago, and his travels to Ireland and England, Bob added more native and rare plants, like franklinea, sweet gums and sour woods, to the property. Before he knew it, he realized he had created an arboretum. A small barn now houses folk art for sale, and four greenhouses offer retail plants, succulents and herbs. Over time, outdoor sculptures from local artists were brought to the property where they now

stay, nestled around wisteria, bleeding hearts and viburnum plants. A staff of five, including the Hills and an art director, Katrina Tate, maintains Hidden Hill. The property is now home to multiple gardens: the Fairies Garden features an old cable wheel transformed into a Ferris wheel with artfully designed fairies sitting on the spokes; the Stone Stack Room is a rock garden. Then there’s a weeping willow under which you will find a hidden room. It’s a place to let your imagination fly. “There are no complete paths through the gardens,” Bob explains. “I want the garden to paint a picture in people’s minds and let them find their own way.” Hidden Hill Nursery & Sculpture Garden 1011 Utica-Charlestown Road, Utica (812) 282-0524, hiddenhillnursery.com First Saturday of April through Mid-October, Thursdays and Fridays, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Sundays, noon to 5 p.m., or by appointment *FI

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

Acts of Service

Greg Marlett learns as he gardens, before sharing with others what he knows

By Paige Langenderfer | photos By Josh marshall

Greg Marlett discovered his passion for gardening in an act of service. It was a sunny day in 1981 in a rough neighborhood in southern Florida. Marlett, 13 at the time, watched his elderly neighbor’s fruitless attempts to start her lawn mower. He had mowed lawns for years and had a talent for making small engines hum. But the woman who needed help was the neighbor who most frightened all of the kids on the street. “They said she was ugly, and she talked in a strange, loud voice,” recalls Marlett, now 46. “But I knew she was deaf and she needed help, so I gave it a chance.” He made quick work of correcting the problem with the mower. “After I got it running, she ripped a couple of flowers off of a plant, handed them to me and said, ‘Take home. Put in water,’” Marlett says. “I didn’t know what they were, so I just ran home and put them in a vase for my mom.” To Marlett’s surprise, in a few days, the flowers grew roots as they sat in the vase. He took the plant down the street to show the neighbor. “She shook her head and said, ‘Put in dirt,’” Marlett says. “I took it home and planted it, and before long I had coleus growing all over the neighborhood. I became obsessed.” Marlett spent many spring and summer days visiting his elderly neighbor, named Snookie, learning the basics of gardening. “I’ve been gardening ever since,” he says. “When I think back on the little deaf lady that nobody liked, I am amazed at the difference she made in my life by taking the time to teach a kid down the street a few things about gardening.”

Backyard farming

Today, Marlett considers himself a food activist, growing nearly all the food his family needs from his backyard farm, which he named Hard Way Farms. “Snookie taught me that gardening is food security,” Marlett says. “We were extremely poor when I grew up, and we didn’t always have (food security). It’s so easy and inexpensive to grow all of the food you need. You don’t even need a garden; you just need a little dirt, some water and some seeds.” Marlett, a master gardener, is proof that a lot can be done with a little space. He grows nearly a dozen types of vegetables and raises grass-fed

chickens and pigs in his Martinsville backyard, on less than half an acre. “I think it is so important to know how to grow our own food,” he says. “That way if we ever need to be self-sufficient, we will have what we need.” To find the best growing conditions for each plant, Marlett uses numerous techniques, which include growing plants in containers, greenhouses and even without dirt in his newest adventure into aquaponics. “The backyard is all production, and it is very busy,” he says. “I’m able to get a lot of stuff in a very small space.” He credits mulching as the source of most of his success. The soil in Marlett’s backyard is sandy and dry, which makes mulch essential in providing adequate moisture to his crops. Each time he mows his grass, he bags the clippings and spreads them over the soil of his garden. The grass holds in moisture, but it also delivers key nutrients to the soil as it breaks down and blocks sunlight from pesky weeds. “I always tell people that I don’t cut my grass, I harvest it,” says Marlett. “I don’t have time to weed, and the grass serves as a fertilizer, which is important because the plants are pulling a lot out of the soil each season.” For the past five years, he has sold produce, sausage and eggs at Morgan County Farmers Market Association’s Martinsville market. “The sausage, by far, is the most popular item I sell,” Marlett says. “I think I am one of only a handful of Indiana producers who sells pork at farmers markets.” Marlett first purchased pigs and chickens as a way to provide meat for his family, but soon realized the market demand. He buys his pigs from a friend who owns a large pig operation. “All of our hogs are rescues,” Marlett says. “Either they are the runts, or they are injured or just need a little extra time and attention that they can’t get at a big farm.”

TOP: Greg Marlett stands inside his self-built aquaponics greenhouse made from cattle panels, lumber and plastic sheeting. MIDDLE: Oregano grows in abundance inside the greenhouse. BOTTOM: Marlett and his grandson, Emerson.

Farm Indiana // june 2014

Greg Marlett Occupation: Property manager for a private estate, owner of Hard Way Farms and president of My Local Indiana

Oversized cabbage is surrounded by grass clippings that are used to help keep moisture in the ground, add nutrients and prevent weeds.

Age: 46 Hobbies: Gardening and hunting Family: Wife, Jennifer; daughter, Mariah; two grandchildren Farm acreage: Half-acre Training: Master gardener For sale: Spinach, beets, kale, romaine lettuce, broccoli, green onions, cucumbers, luffa gourds, squash, celery, carrots, tomatoes, cabbage, radishes, black beans, asparagus, strawberries, blackberries, black raspberries, blackberry and black raspberry jelly and jam, eggs and whole hog sausage Where to buy: Every Saturday at the Morgan County Farmers Market Association, Martinsville location, at the courthouse square at the corner of Main and Morgan streets.

“I think it is so important to know how to grow our own food. That way if we ever need to be self-sufficient, we will have what we need.” — greg marlett

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Marlett does not use antibiotics, preferring to baby his animals with grass and “all natural” food and attention. “After a couple of weeks, they are just like dogs,” he says. “When they see me coming, they walk up to the fence expecting me to scratch their back. After I get them, I try to make sure that they only have one bad day in their life.” Farmers market visitors buy between 50 and 80 pounds of Marlett’s sausage every week throughout the summer. He raised six pigs for this year’s market season. “People really like that our meat has no preservatives and is raised naturally,” he says. “We try to hold some back, but we sell out every week.” A couple dozen chickens live just a few feet from Marlett’s pig pen. He raises two types of chickens, Blue Orpingtons and Isa Browns. The Orpingtons are raised and sold to professional chicken showmen. The Browns are raised for chicken meat for Marlett’s family and eggs that are sold at the farmers market. The chickens produce about 30 eggs a day. He describes his production as trial and error. “I try something one year, and if it doesn’t work out, I try something else,” he says. “I just really enjoy watching things grow.”

Remaining sustainable

Sharing his knowledge with others is Marlett’s favorite part of gardening. He teaches two outdoor gardening classes each week, one at IU Health Morgan Hospital and the other at the Desert Rose Women’s Domestic Violence Women’s Shelter. He also serves as the president of My Local Indiana Inc., an organization that helps producers and farmers navigate the agri-tourism industry and sell products directly to the public. “We can do all of the sustainable farming we want, but if we aren’t sharing our knowledge, how sustainable is it?” he asks. Patricia Zahnd Proctor, president of the Morgan County Farmers Market Association, says Marlett was instrumental in establishing markets in Martinsville and Mooresville. “Greg has a passion for working with local growers and producers to educate consumers and provide best quality food and non-food products,” says Zahnd Proctor. “Greg lives his life with unwavering integrity and can be entrusted to maintain the community’s trust. He is sensitive to the needs of the community, the customers and the growers.” *FI

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june 2014 | Section B

In Miniature A 2-week-old foal named Dandy.

Two diminutive donkeys served as a catalyst to creating a wonderful life story By twinkle vanwinkle photos By josh marshall

hen Steve and Jill Crim bought a pair of miniature donkeys back in 2002 for their grandkids, little did they realize they would eventually own 12 pastures full of these perky little prize-winners. The Crims’ big adventure into raising mini donkeys began as the punch line of a long-running family joke. “My father and youngest son, Spank (Brian), loved to joke around, calling each other ‘jackass,’” says Steve. “Dad always joked he would buy one and put it in the yard on Spank’s 21st birthday.” After Crim’s father passed away in 2002, he decided that he wanted to make the decades-long joke a reality — in memory of his dad. Jill says she thought Steve was crazy. “I literally asked if he had lost his mind,” she says, “but I wouldn’t change that decision now for anything.” Now certified breeders, Steve and Jill run ASSphalt Acres, a quaint farm with more than 70 miniature donkeys roaming rolling pastures that stretch throughout Rush County. Steve says that even though he and his wife both have “day jobs” — Steve runs an asphalt business, and Jill is a CPA — their lives really revolve around the donkeys. “It’s great getting up in the morning and seeing them run to the fence to say ‘good morning,’ with all the heehawing and braying,” he explains. “They are really some of the sweetest animals on this earth.” Jill is just as involved as Steve on the farm, and raising the animals is something they have both crafted into their life’s work. She says they love the travel involved, as well as their farming responsibilities. They take every opportunity to deliver donkeys to their new owners when they’re sold. “We’ve been everywhere — Buffalo, Niagara Falls, New Hampshire, out West,” she says. “It’s a real opportunity for us to get out and see the country and get off the beaten path.” At the time of this interview, the Crims were preparing to attend the 2014 Steve Crim with a nearly 1-month-old foal named One Shining Moment.

// See donkeys on b2

Farm Indiana // june 2014

donkeys // cont. from B1 National Championships in Hutchinson, Kan. Attending and participating in these shows offer the couple an opportunity to take time with their grandchildren (Cameron, 14, Kyle, 11, Kellen, 5, Brooklyn, 4, and Jameson, 1½). The couple regularly takes the older children on the trips, teaching them how to prepare the animals for travel, how to get the animals to perform during the shows and introducing them to the countryside as the family travels. The walls in the Crim home are peppered with winning ribbons. Last year — the family’s first year at Nationals — the couple grabbed three of the

top awards: Best in Breed, Junior Champion and Champion Gelding. But beyond the competitions, what do you do with a miniature donkey? Steve says it’s a question he hears all the time. “Besides being some of the cutest animals on earth,” he explains, “miniature donkeys make great pets. They are gentle and loyal, and (they) love kids.” Steve also says miniature donkeys are perfect for teaching purposes, and younger children love a chance to pet them and learn about them. Often the Crims host school field trips on the farm. The couple also takes some of the farm’s best-

“Besides being some of the cutest animals on earth, miniature donkeys make great pets.

The Lowdown on Donkeys Origins: Miniature donkeys have origins in the Mediterranean area of northern Africa and in the islands of Sicily and Sardinia off the west coast of Italy. Over time, the distinctions between the populations blurred, and they are now considered one breed properly called miniature Mediterranean donkeys. They are referred to as miniature donkeys in North America. As herd animals, miniature donkeys love companions. It is strongly recommended to pair them with another donkey or other animal as a lifelong pal.

Fun Fact: Miniature donkeys’ colorings aren’t necessarily genetic. You never really know what they will look like until they are born.

They are gentle and loyal, and (they) love kids.” — steve crim

Competition ribbons hang proudly in the Crims’ home. BELOW: Steve Crim.

Life Span: 25 to 35-plus years Weight: 200 to 350 pounds Height: 32 to 34 inches, maximum 36 inches Gestation: Single baby, averaging 20 to 30 pounds at birth. Foals are up and nursing within 30 minutes, weaned by 5 to 6 months. Health: Although miniature donkeys require vaccinations, they are hardy animals. Color: Miniature donkeys are usually gray-dun, with a characteristic cross-shaped marking on their backs. They also come in darker shades of gray, brown, black and sorrel and the very popular white with spots. The lighter tan markings around their eyes and muzzle are referred to as points. *Source: National Association of Miniature Donkeys, nmdaasset.com

Farm Indiana // june 2014

Steve and Jill Crim

Some dealerShipS talk about Service. otherS live it.

behaved minis to visit nursing homes, as well as to church events and other public happenings. The donkeys’ gentle natures allow them to mix and mingle with people in a variety of settings. Some of the more mature donkeys have seasonal jobs in live Nativity scenes around Rush County during the holiday season. It’s not really about the money, the Crims admit, but well-bred miniature donkeys can be sold for quite a large price — sometimes up to $5,000 each. “We’ve sold donkeys all over the world and in more than 35 states in the U.S.,” Steve says. “Not only are they desirable as pets, they make a great second income if you’re ready to invest in them.” Many people who’ve purchased animals from ASSphalt Acres check back in to let the Crims know how the donkeys are. “We love to hear how our guys are doing somewhere after we sell them,” Steve explains. “You want to make sure you are sending them off to someone who is going to really care for them and treat them right.” “We both love and cherish all our donkeys,” says Jill. “Everybody’s got to have something, and this really is our something.” *FI

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Funding and Resources

In the second article of this series, we provide information on available funds for Indiana farms, as well as resources, webinars and educational opportunities that are designed to assist you in writing your proposals. Compiled by Cissy Bowman

Note: This is the second of a series on government, private and alternative funding available to Indiana farmers. Look for more information on available grant money in next month’s Farm Indiana.

Resources for Grant Seekers Grants.gov is a federal website that allows eligible grant seekers to find and apply for current competitive grant opportunities from all federal agencies. The website guides you through obtaining a Data Universal Number System (DUNS) number and registering to apply and track applications. With regard to federal grants, an organization that wishes to apply must have certain information ready for the registration process. You first need to check to see if your organization already has a DUNS number (issued by Dun & Bradstreet) and be registered with Central Contractor Registration (CCR). The DUNS number is a unique identifier for your organization required by the federal government to track how federal grant money is distributed. If your organization does not already have a DUNS number, you can apply for one free of charge at fedgov.dnb.com/webform. To register with the Central Contractor Registration (CCR), see uscontractorregistration.com. To ensure the electronic submission of your grant applications is secure, you will need to complete an Authorized Organization Representative (AOR) profile and create a username and password. You can also complete an AOR profile on the uscontractorregistration.com site. The Foundation Center provides information about private funding sources, writing grant proposals, finding grant reference collections and more. The center maintains a comprehensive database on foundations, print and electronic directories and guides, plus offers research and published studies and a variety of training and educational seminars. For more information, visit foundationcenter.org.

Webinars The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) National Institute of Food and Agriculture (NIFA) provides helpful information for those wishing to write grant proposals. Grant writing webinars are available at nifa.usda.gov/nea/ag_systems/res/ smallfarms_grant_webinars.html.

School Grants Annie’s Homegrown Inc. Annie’s Homegrown Inc. grants help start or improve K-12 school garden projects. Annie’s offers a spring and fall round of grants. The fall round opens in October. For more information, visit annies.com/ giving-back/school-gardens/grants-for-gardens.

The American Honda Foundation Nonprofit charitable organizations that are classified as 501(c)(3), public school districts or private/public elementary and secondary schools are eligible to receive funds for youth education, specifically in the areas of science, technology, engineering, mathmatics, the environment, job training and literacy. Grants range from $20,000 to $75,000 in a one-year period. Deadlines for the submission of proposals are four times a year: Feb. 1, May 1, Aug. 1 and Nov. 1. To apply online, visit corporate.honda.com/america/philanthropy.aspx?id=honda_foundations.

The Summer Food Service Program (SFSP) Helps children in lower-income areas continue to receive nutritious meals during long school vacations, when they do not have access to school lunch or breakfast. The program offers funding on a per-meal basis to organizations that provide meals to low-income children during the summer. SFSP sponsors are reimbursed on a per-meal basis for meals served to eligible participants. Applications accepted on an ongoing basis. For more information, visit fns.usda.gov/sfsp/summer-food-service-program-sfsp.

USDA’s New Farm-To-School Programs In the coming 2014-2015 school year, these new pilot programs promise to place more local produce in schools by providing local fruit and vegetables for at least five, and up to eight, pilot schools across the country. The USDA is expected to release a Request for Proposals (RFP) in the coming months. For more information, visit civileats.com/2014/04/24/usda-pilots-new-farm-to-school-programs.

The list of available grants and recorded webinar sessions includes:

Everything You Wanted To Know About Grants.gov This webinar will help you to navigate the grants. gov set-up process. This is a recorded webinar, sponsored by USDA NIFA and it includes step-bystep instructions about the registration process.

Grant Writing Webinar — Developing Budgets, Logic Models, Evaluation Plans In this webinar, grant specialists provide information on how to prepare a budget and determine matching/cost sharing allowances, develop a program logic model and develop a comprehensive evaluation plan.

Farm to School Webinars

Through July the USDA Farm to School Program will host two webinars each month to showcase the variety of ways school districts can purchase local foods. Webinars will be held at 2 p.m. on the second and fourth Thursdays of the month. Each webinar has been recorded, and those held previously are also available for viewing. Previous sessions include Finding, Buying, and Serving Local Foods: Introduction to Procurement; Conducting a Local Procurement Baseline Assessment; Finding Local Producers; Using the Informal Procurement Method; Working with Distributors; and more. Summer sessions include Using DoD Fresh to Purchase Local (June 12) and Tying It All Together and Digging In (June 26). To register for future webinars, or to access previous sessions, visit fns.usda.gov/farmtoschool/webinars.

Farm Indiana // june 2014

Foundation Funding

Other Government Grants

Norcross Wildlife Foundation Inc.

USDA’s Rural Energy for America Program (REAP)

Average grant awards of $5,000 can be used for computer and office technology of all kinds, specialized software to drive GIS mapping, GPS equipment, water-quality testing equipment, work tools and equipment, including vehicles and boats and educational materials. Applications can be sent in any time. More information can be found at norcrossws.org/ Foundation%20Infor/Foundmain.html.

Rural small businesses and agricultural producers can apply for funding for making energy-efficiency improvements or installing renewable energy systems. Requests for grants may not exceed 25 percent of a project’s cost — either for stand-alone grant requests or for grants combined with loan guarantees. Information on how to apply for REAP funding and on the application deadlines (which vary by project type) is available at gpo.gov/fdsys/ pkg/FR-2014-05-05/pdf/2014-10054.pdf. *FI

Surdna Foundation Grants The Surdna Foundation makes grants to nonprofit organizations in the areas of sustainable environments, strong local economies and thriving cultures. There is no deadline for application. Information can be found at surdna.org/grants.

The Captain Planet Foundation These funds can be used by nonprofit organizations to promote understanding of environmental issues by focusing on hands-on involvement. Involvement of children and young adults ages 6 to 18 is required. Deadlines are June 30, Sept. 30 and Dec. 31. Application information can be found at captainplanet foundation.org/online-grant-application-instructions.

The founder and program director of Hoosier Organic Marketing Education, Cissy Bowman has been growing food organically since 1973 and on her current farm, Center Valley Organic Farm, since 1983. For more information on Hoosier Organic Marketing Education, email cvof@earthlink.net or call (317) 539-2753.

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

LEFT: Summer intern Wes Sexton receives instructions from CUE farm manager Tim Dorsey. RIGHT: Chive blossoms.

story by jon shoulders photos by josh marshall

Grounds for Learning Butler University’s campus farm strives to sow the seeds of community sustainability

mack dab in the middle of metropolitan Indianapolis, tucked in a corner of a private university campus, a single acre of fenced-in farmland is currently serving a multitude of purposes for students of all ages, area residents, local restaurants and — if those running the farm have their way — central Indiana’s approach to growing and procuring its food. In the fall of 2009, the members of the Butler University chapter of Earth Charter Indiana, a nonprofit organization now in its 13th year dedicated to implementing programs throughout the state that promote sustainable community development, decided to act on a desire for a campus-based educational resource for organic farming. They approached Butler’s Center for Urban Ecology (CUE) to hammer out the details. The following January, ground was broken on a tiny plot of land next to the university’s tennis courts and intramural fields. A few dedicated CUE staff members and a handful of students began cultivating what in a few years has become not only a fixture at the university, but a supplier of produce for many local establishments and a model for sustainable growing methods. The farm’s growers hope urban and rural farmers alike will take notice of those methods. “It’s a good example of the variety of things you can do with a small space,” says Tim Dorsey, the farm’s manager since summer 2011. “I hope what we’ll see in the ensuing years is that the interest in local and urban farming will not only stay up but will also be able to move into the realm of training local farmers, because I think that’s kind of a gap right now. The education factor is key, not just for students.” It might not seem a likely location for a fully equipped, hands-on agricultural education centercum-thriving produce farm, but don’t tell that to Dorsey, a New Jersey native who studied philosophy at Taylor University and has tended his own expansive home garden since moving to Indy in 1998. In early 2011, CUE received grant funds from the Nina Mason Pulliam Charitable Trust, which allowed for expansion of the farming space to approximately one full acre (three times its original size), equipment

upgrades, fencing, a new tiller, irrigation supplies and a full-time manager, which Dorsey says has been a learning process for both himself and the interns he coaches. “Even some people who have been at Butler for a long time are only recently realizing that we’re here, but the word is spreading,” he says. Through what Dorsey describes as “total immersion,” three student interns learn first-hand each fall, spring and summer semester about what it takes to sustainably cultivate vegetables, fruits and flowers that the farm eventually sells and donates. Variety is the name of the crop game at the farm, and weekly yields might include strawberries, raspberries, rhubarb, tomatoes, carrots and a variety of lettuces, mustard greens and baby kales. Dorsey recently added seaberry, an antioxidant-rich orange fruit that is prevalent in Russia, Scandinavia and Germany but still relatively obscure in North America. “It grows really easily and is super cold hardy to around minus 50 degrees,” he says. “It’s also a legume, so it’s a soil builder like peas and beans. They’re able to fix nitrogen from the atmosphere and provide nitrogen for other plants around them.” Interns are also sent out to several local junior high schools to assist in their gardens and help implement sustainable agricultural practices in the science curriculum, with portions of the CUE grant funds helping to develop those schools’ projects. Later this summer, 90 local elementary school students will visit the farm for group tours to learn a few basics of sustainable and urban growing. Most tours begin at a covered shelter that stands adjacent to the crop beds and whose environmentally friendly materials complement the farm nicely. The shelter was constructed using recycled steel and a covering made from fabric salvaged from Indy’s former RCA Dome. The farm’s most recent structural addition is its mobile classroom and resource center, completed last December. Made from a former shipping container repurposed and designed by Ball State University architecture students, the space features a retrofitted sliding door, a solar-powered exhaust fan, a deck and a rainwater collection system. Dorsey says CUE will

start developing additional projects this summer for students, interns and visitors with the new classroom as a home base. “Our focus for the first few years has been getting the farm up and running, and now we want to look toward incorporating some more programming beyond just having tours and things like that,” he explains. Once the farm’s community supported agriculture program (CSA) begins in early June, Dorsey says its participants are the top priority for each week’s yield. “I think Tim has shown with the success of his farm — and it’s one of the reasons we love it — that urban farming can work, that a small farm can produce a huge amount of produce for the surrounding area. His model could be copied and replicated in food deserts, which exist across Indianapolis and the state as a whole,” says Gabe Harkov, CSA member. “Being able to eat locally sourced foods is super important as we do eat a ton of produce every week, and knowing that transporting that food isn’t causing huge environmental damage is comforting.” Crops are also made available for sale to Butler students and the public from the farm’s produce stand every Thursday, which coincides with CSA

CUE Farm at Butler University Location: Adjacent to the Butler intramural fields on Bulldog Road, directly west of Robertson Hall on the west side of the Central Canal. Produce Stand/CSA Pickup Hours: 4 to 6 p.m. every Thursday from June through October at the farm. Cash or checks accepted. Contact: (800) 368-6852, butler.edu/ urban-ecology/urban-farm

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

Intern Wes Sexton

Dorsey with McKenzie Beverage, sustainability coordinator for Butler University.

pickup hours. CSA members pay a flat fee at the beginning of the season and can pick up their order each week until the program ends in late October. Sale proceeds are used to cover the farm’s expenses. “We may look at extending the season in the future if we have good turnout and a good growing season,” Dorsey says, adding that there is currently a waiting list for the CSA, which has grown to 23 members. “The Butler sustainability and urban ecology classes have helped get the word out.” Any produce leftover is sold to several markets and eateries around the city, including Napolese Pizzeria, Bluebeard, Natural Born Juicers and Good

Earth Natural Food Co., and some is donated to community kitchens like Second Helpings and the St. Vincent dePaul food pantry. “Tim does a great job of finding different varieties of ‘standard veggies,’ so while he does have green beans, he also sells purple and white beans,” Harkov says. “Most importantly, the quality of produce is exponentially better than store-bought groceries, and the price is so low it helps us eat better and eat cheaper all summer — and also helps us not want to go out as often as we need to make sure to eat all our CSA veggies.” Tyler Herald, executive chef and kitchen manager for Café Patachou, Napolese and Petit Chou restaurants, says the four-year relationship he has developed with the Butler farm pays dividends beyond just business considerations. “I use 80 to 85 percent local vegetables from about 12 or so produce farms, and when they approached me four years ago about using their stuff at Butler, I went for it immediately,” he says. “Tim and his wife have become friends, and I think that’s what is most important about going local. It’s more

than a business thing, and you get to know people. I look at every single one of the farms as a friend.” The farm also sells to the university for special events on campus that feature catering, and Dorsey is interested in supplying student dining halls on a more regular basis. “Based on what I’ve heard and when I talk to people within and without Butler, I feel like a lot of people would like to see that and have their food grown right on their campus,” he says. Dorsey points out that the farm’s commercial operation doesn’t always overlap with its educational components, but as long as it remains connected to the community in a variety of ways, he feels it will be serving its original purpose. “If you talk to our restaurant clients, they aren’t necessarily interested in our programmatic activities or what we are philosophically; we’re a source of vegetables for them,” he says. “We have both, however, which I think makes us unique.” *FI

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The Farmer’s Safety Net Farm Service Agency provides an extensive support network for the Hoosier farm community By Teresa Nicodemus

Whom are you going to call when your pastureland is diminished from unrelenting drought conditions or you are a new farmer building a farm business for the first time? The United States Department of Agriculture Farm Service Agency (FSA) is the go-to resource for millions of farmers across the nation. The FSA provides an array of government programs with 75 county offices in Indiana serving local farmers and ranchers, according to Julia Wickard, state executive director for the Indiana FSA. “The national FSA creates and implements the programs, but we are on the ground level working directly with and for the Indiana farmers,” explains Linda Justice, county executive director for the Hancock County FSA office. The Hancock County FSA, like many county offices, keeps farmers updated through e-mail, biannual newsletters and letter campaigns. “Many of our farmers don’t use computers,” Justice explains. “We have many methods of communication, including word-of-mouth from others in the farming community. When a major program sign-up is happening, we often call a meeting with the farmers.” Committee meetings also help to spread the word about program changes. FSA committee members — elected by a ballot system to serve within their county FSA office — meet once a month or on an as-needed basis to “assist the FSA office in outreach efforts by connecting to farmers in the area,” Wickard says. “They are the microphone for our programs.”

A Lending Resource Each state FSA office provides information, training and education to county staff members who administer programs and loans for farmers and producers. The FSA offers many government-assisted loan programs for farmers at substantially lower rates. “It’s tough for new farmers competing with so many large, 5,000 to 10,000 or more acre farms,” says Justice. “If they didn’t have the lending support that the FSA can provide, it would be much more difficult for them.” The FSA also provides loans for youths involved in 4-H programs. “One farmer’s son, who raises beehives, came into our office to obtain a loan to build a honey business,” Justice says. “Profits from his business enabled him to buy livestock for the 4-H fair.” Mike Priest, farm loan manager of the Henry County FSA office, says beginning farm ownership loans are the most popular programs among farmers. They are designed with very little down payment requirements and almost 100 percent financing. “Part of the qualification requirements for these loans is proof of a farm background and training,” Priest says. “Loan applicants must have experi-

In The Know Visit fsa.usda.gov for the most current information about the 2014 Farm Bill. Go to the Fact Sheet tab for specific details about programs that will roll out with the launch of the bill. Sign up at fsa.usda.gov/subscribe to receive e-mails from your county’s FSA office regarding coming sign-up deadlines and program updates.

ence managing a farm, even if it’s just a few acres.” Operating loans are also popular and allow farmers to borrow money to put out crops or take care of livestock or other operational needs. Price support loans at lower interest rates help many local farmers with cash flow challenges, and facility loan programs are available for farmers who need to build grain bins at low interest rates.

Farming Programs Not only offering lending options, but risk coverage, disaster relief and conservation programs as well, FSA county offices are busy hubs of activity for area farmers. “With the passing of the 2014 Farm Bill, all of the county offices are actively serving their customers,” Wickard says. “Many new programs will be offered.” The Farm Bill, which was passed on Feb. 7, takes into consideration the livestock disaster program, which ended in December 2011. “When the 2014 Farm Bill passed, elected officials made certain to include provisions for farmers affected by the 2012 drought, which influences many of our FSA customers,” Wickard explains. The Livestock Forage Disaster Program (LFP) is a key program in the Farm Bill that directly affects many Indiana farmers hit by the 2012 drought. According to Jeffrey Fisher, county executive director for the Jackson County FSA Office, sign-up for LFP began April 15 and runs to Jan. 30. The program will provide payment for additional fees and costs farmers had for extra feed and hay as a result of the drought. Farmers who have livestock and pasture affected by the drought are eligible. The FSA offers a vast set of tools for farmers that go beyond FSA-specific programs. Wickard describes two sister agencies to FSA that provide conservation and rural development assistance to area farmers. County offices administer programs through the Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) that offer a litany of grassland and wetland conservation programs. The Rural Development Agency also offers programs through county offices, providing rural housing and utilities, as well as grants. “The FSA is a smorgasbord of opportunities for agriculture producers,” Wickard explains. “We have something for everyone, and we hope farmers will visit their local FSA office to decide what will work on their plate. It’s more important than ever to learn what we have available, especially as we roll out the 2014 Farm Bill.” *FI

Orchardists and nursery tree growers who experienced losses from natural disasters that occurred on or after Oct. 1, 2011, can sign up for the Tree Assistance Program (TAP). TAP was authorized by the Agricultural Act of 2014 as a permanent disaster program, and it provides financial assistance to qualifying orchardists and nursery tree growers to replant or rehabilitate eligible trees, bushes and vines damaged by natural disasters, such as the drought of 2012. Eligible tree types include trees, bushes or vines that produce an annual crop for commercial purposes. Nursery trees include ornamental, fruit, nut and Christmas trees that are produced for commercial sale. Trees used for pulp or timber are ineligible. For more information, contact your county FSA office.

Farm Indiana // june 2014

A Fair Start The rides, the lights and the fried foods are great, but county fairs are about so much more than just the sights and sounds. Fairs are about coming together as a community, celebrating our Hoosier heritage, supporting our agricultural pursuits and maybe even showing off a little of what each of us has learned to do. June kicks off fair season in Indiana with 16 county events. For those of us here at Farm Indiana, we’re excited for it all — the competitions, the thrills, the fireworks and, admittedly, a deep-fried funnel cake or two.

Daviess County June 20-28 daviesscofair.com

Ohio County June 20-28 enjoyrisingsun.com

Dearborn County June 14-21 dearborncountyfair.com

Pulaski County June 28 to July 3 pulaskicountyfair.com

Grant County June 15-21 grantcountyfairgrounds.net

Rush County June 21-28 rushcounty.com

Hancock County June 20-27 yourhancockfairgrounds.com

Shelby County June 30 to July 5 shelbycounty4h.com

Marion County June 20-29 marioncountyfair.org

Spencer County June 27-30 spencercountyfairindiana.com

Miami County June 22-28 miamicounty4hfair.com

St. Joseph County June 27 to July 5 4hfair.com Vermillion County June 15-21 vermillioncounty fairboard.com Warren County June 17-21 extension.purdue.edu/ warren/pages/default.aspx Washington County June 22-28 washingtoncounty.in.gov Wayne County June 21-28 wayneco4hfair.com

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The steps involved in becoming certified By Jessica ervin

elcome to my first column on the organic agriculture sector and certification. To introduce myself, I work as the education and policy manager of Ecocert ICO LLC, a USDA National Organic Program accredited certification agency based in Greenwood. Ecocert ICO is a full-service agency and the only Indianabased certification agency for sustainable certification and development across Indiana and throughout the United States. Along with our international network, Ecocert Group, we represent more than 35,000 certified organic operations globally. Our additional services include certification to all scopes of organics — crops, wild crops, livestock, processing/handling/retail/distributor, international/export assistance, gluten-free, organic cosmetics, fair trade and food safety inspections. The term “organic” for food, feed and fiber is regulated by the USDA National Organic Program, which accredits third-party certification organizations to provide certification and inspection according to Code of Federal Regulation (CFR) §205 in order to label, market and sell product as “organic.” The USDA National Organic Program is managed under the USDA Agriculture Marketing Service, which is the national marketing arm of the USDA. These value-added products receive premium prices while keeping input costs down and supporting sustainable practices. According to the USDA National Organic Program List of Certified Operations released as of Jan. 2, there were 339 certified organic operations in Indiana, showing a significant increase from the 2011 USDA National Agriculture Statistics Service (NASS) report in which there were 148 certified organic operations in Indiana. The 2012 NASS report includes 271 certified organic operations and another 141 in transition, with the largest number of certified farms located in LaGrange County. The organic industry grew to $35 billion in 2013. There is room for economic development and further work that will build a local infrastructure for even more local/organic options and businesses. If you are interested in transitioning land, where should you begin? Connecting with other organic producers is a great way to learn. To find the organic producer nearest you, you can utilize the USDA National Organic Program (NOP) website and list of certified operations. There are also many free services to obtain information, including the National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service – ATTRA toll-free hotline at (800) 346-9140 for expert advice. Organic production is possible on all levels, from big business to small producers, from those who rely on the latest technology to those who use horse-driven

plows and hand labor. The organic plan does not necessitate either, but provides a basis for a viable and valueadded production system. Recordkeeping is an important part of organic certification. There are some sophisticated ways of keeping records, but let’s start with the basics: Start with a binder; fill the binder with dividers relevant to your Organic System Plan (OSP). See ecocertico.com/ annual-inspection-preparation.html for a list; use plastic sleeves for oddly shaped material like seed tags, receipts or input labels. To be eligible for certification, land must have been free of prohibited substances for three years, which can be proven by signature of affidavit from prior land owner/operator or by a three-year field history from current land owner/operator. A prohibited substance would be those inputs that are not allowed under the NOP regulations. The list of these substances can be found in Code of Federal Regulation (CFR) §205.600-205.607. If your land is in transition, seeds treated with prohibited substances are not allowed and genetically modified organism (GMO) seeds are never allowed. Once certified, you must attempt to source and document at least three attempts of sourcing organic seed in the type, quantity and variety you are seeking. If the variety is not available and documented, untreated and non-GMO varieties may be used. GMO varieties are never allowed for use on a certified organic site. Both conventional and organic production may be raised on the same farm. Buffer zones may be required, if prohibited substances are used on adjacent lands. Your transition period starts the day after the last prohibited substance was applied. There are no size requirements: Both small and large farms are eligible for organic certification. The basic process of certification is completed in four steps: application submission, organic system plan review, inspection and determination of compliance/ certification (repeating annually). When should you apply for certification? The certification process can take up to three months to complete, so you should be in contact with your chosen certification agency and discuss time frame and take a look at the forms while you are in transition (for processors, with a date in mind to roll out an organic line). In this case, you should submit your application no later than month 33 of transition to allow for harvest to be completed upon the end of the 36-month transition period and first date of eligibility for certification and sale of first organic product. For first-year certification producers, the inspector will need to view crop in the ground upon the initial inspection, which will be closely coordinated with the certification agency and producer. Your certification agency should work with you in order to determine when you should apply, so we always encourage asking questions.

Organic producers must take into consideration: Environmental stewardship: Organic farmers must use practices that foster cycling of resources, promote ecological balance and conserve biodiversity. Limitations on the use of synthetic substances: Organic farmers must limit their use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides to only those approved in organic regulations and must not use sewage sludge, irradiation or genetic engineering (organic is non-GMO by regulation/practice). Pest management: Organic systems require preventive measures and physical controls before using approved pesticides. Fertility and nutrient management: Organic systems focus on developing soil in ways that rely on natural materials first and foremost before utilizing inputs; however approved inputs (and only those approved by regulation) can be used when other means are exhausted.

Organic processors/handlers must process, package and/or store organic agricultural products using methods that comply with organic regulations (such as cooking, baking, curing, drying, mixing, grinding, churning, separating, distilling, extracting, slaughtering, fermenting, dehydrating, freezing, packaging, canning, etc.). Organic handlers must protect organic products from contamination by prohibited substances and commingling with non-organic products. Is it affordable? Costs with certification agencies vary, and certification agencies are required to provide a fee schedule/quotation based upon your operation. Ecocert ICO does not charge a percentage of sales or “user fees” based upon sales. Instead, we charge the cost of the services we provide. With the recent passage of the Farm Bill, including the Cost Share program, the annual cost of certification (all inclusive) with Ecocert ICO starts at $208.75 annually for producers (after USDA Cost Share reimbursement). Additionally, NRCS EQIP’s Organic Initiative funding will assist those in transition and certified organic as well. To contact Jessica Ervin, call (888) 337-8246 or email jessica.ervin@ecocert.com.

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

Cost Analysis

The price of getting certified By Cissy bowman

he price of certification is often viewed as a barrier to those who would like to be certified organic. There have been a number of studies on barriers to certification, and the cost issue regularly rears its ugly head. But what does it really cost? There are currently 84 accredited Organic Certification Agencies operating in the U.S. Their legal identity structures and scopes of services vary, as do their price structures, even though they all, by law, certify to the same standard. In order for a farmer to make an informed decision, each should do a little research. Certifiers are required to submit their fee schedule to the administrator of the National Organic Program (NOP) and are required to charge only the fees that they have published and are NOP approved. All certifiers should be able and willing to share their fee schedule with you and provide an estimate for your total cost. There are a number of certifiers operating in Indiana. For the purposes of this article we will concentrate on those companies that certify the majority. We also will share with you the questions you need to ask when considering the price. Based on our research we have found that these agencies are: • Ecocert/ICO, an Indiana-based certification agency.

• Global Organic Association (GOA), an Ohio-based operation. • Ohio Ecological Food and Farm Association (OEFFA), an Ohio-based company.

• Oregon Tilth Certification Organization (OTCO), an Oregon-based company. • Quality Certification Services (QCS), a Florida-based company. Issues to consider include the type of certification services you need, basic costs and additional costs that are based on your income. Many have expedited services for an additional fee. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. You have the right to know. Most certification fees are calculated using a cost that is based on the size and complexity of your operation, an inspection fee and other charges as applicable to the certifier’s programs. Be sure to ask about all of the fees associated with certification so that you know what to expect. Additionally some certifiers offer discounts for early applicants and for those who are switching from another certifier. Some of these agencies add additional fees based on your gross income from farm sales (aka “royalty fees” or “user fees”), hourly fees for “administrative costs,” inspector travel costs, service charges and more. You should make sure that you understand what your real cost will be or cheap certification may not really be as inexpensive as you imagined. Ecocert/ICO operates based on a flat fee for the service it performs for you. Since the agency is based in Indiana, it has inspectors who live and work nearby, which helps keep inspection costs down. Ecocert does not charge user fees, hourly fees, administrative costs or any additional fees beyond the certification service itself, with discounts offered for early applica-

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tions and for operations switching over from another certifier. The application cost is $360, and the inspection fee is $410. An additional certification fee is based on acreage (starting at $215). For more information, call (888) 337-8246 or visit online at ecocertico.com. GOA is a membership organization and charges an annual registration and certification fee based on association with GOA (i.e., member or client) and the applicable certification or compliance program and categories (i.e., farm, livestock, processor, handler, repacker, etc.) of certification being requested. GOA also charges royalty fees based on your sales and inspection fees, which may vary due to the distance that must be traveled by the assigned inspector, complexity of the operation to be inspected and the location of the operation. These costs start at $1,500. GOA can be reached at goa-online.org or (937) 593-1232. OEFFA’s fee structure changes with the calendar. The fees increase as the year progresses. Application fees range from $950 (sent in before March 15) to $1,500 (sent in by Sept. 15). Operations located outside Ohio may be charged additional fees. OEFFA can be reached at oeffa.org/certification.php or (614) 262-2022. OTCO’s fees are based on your gross sales of organic products. Inspection fees are also charged as well as an administration fee. Inspection fees may include the inspector’s fee, travel expenses, meals and lodging expenses.

For more information, visit tilth.org/ certification or call (877) 378-0690. QCS certification fees are based on acreage and inspection fees, on the scope and complexity of the certification. QCS also charges a user fee of 0.5 percent of your gross sales, a $45/hour administrative cost, inspector travel costs, a $25 service charge and fees for “additional reporting,” as well as a $45 fee for processing a transaction certificate, a document that is used to verify the certification of a specific sale of organic product, which, in some markets, is required. More information is available at www.qcsinfo.org or call (352) 377-0133. Knowing the fee structure of your certifier is a very important aspect of your certification. You will also need to know what services you really need for your operation. Fortunately the new Farm Bill has continued funding for the Organic Cost Share Program, which, through your state Department of Agriculture, provides you with a reimbursement of 75 percent of the cost of your certification, up to $750 per year. ISDA can be reached at in.gov/ isda or (317) 232-8770. When the cost share is taken into consideration, certification costs are quite reasonable. In every instance, make sure to shop around for your certifier, understand the fee structure and ask questions. *FI

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

EatLocal

Home Plate Farm fresh meals around the state

The classic grilled cheese and a cup of house-made chili at Fair Oaks Farm and Restaurant

compiled By Twinkle VanWinkle

(Submitted photo)

As Indiana embraces its farm culture anew, upscale restaurants, an Irish pub and even an Indianapolis hotel are wooing old and new customers with dishes created from fresh, locally sourced foods. Pull up a chair at these Indiana eateries and fill your plate with fresh veggies, meats and cheeses grown and raised on Hoosier soil.

Fair Oaks Farm and Restaurant 856 N. 600E, Fair Oaks (877) 536-1194, fofarms.com The Plate: Classic grilled cheese made with Fair Oaks Farm awardwinning Swiss cheese, tomato and basil. Cup of housemade chili with signature Fair Oaks Farm cheddar cheese. Originally a collective of nine dairy farming families, Fair Oaks Farm quickly grew into a major dairy producer, yielding 2.9 million pounds of milk per day and more than 550,000 visitors per year. But the farm is more than just a massive milk operation. Truly a farm-to-table business, Fair Oaks offers visitors a chance to experience its products firsthand at the Fair Oaks Farm Café, where fresh sandwiches, soups, salads and sweets are crafted and served using the farm’s award-winning milk and artisan cheeses. Also new this year: The Farmhouse Restaurant, an on-site eatery that will feature more upscale offerings of the farm’s dairy products and fresh produce. “Using our own products gives us full control and oversight of what we are using in our restaurants,” says Susan Webb, executive assistant at Fair Oaks. “Great taste and quality are very important features to us.”

1913 Restaurant & Severin Bar at The Omni Severin, Indianapolis 40 W. Jackson Place, Indianapolis (317) 634-6664, omnihotels.com/ FindAHotel/Indianapolis Severin/Dining.aspx The Plate: Indiana Board: Smoking Goose cured meats, Trader’s Point Creamery and Capriole Farms cheeses, chef’s pickled vegetables, house-made beer jam If farm tours aren’t what you had in mind on your local food adventure, step into the historic Omni Severin Hotel in downtown Indianapolis. This upscale destination is a quick walk from the capital’s metro area, and it showcases Indiana’s rural offerings on its menus. Have a hand-crafted cocktail from the boutique-style Severin Bar with an Indiana Board appetizer, a savory spread of locally sourced meats and cheeses, or head into the hotel’s 1913 Restaurant for the root beer-cured pork chops, sourced from LaGrange’s Gunthorp Farms. “It’s not only our responsibility, but our privilege, to support our local farmers and businesses by showcasing them to our guests,” says Paul Feakes, Omni Severin’s director of food and beverage. “It’s important to know where your food comes from.”

J K O’Donnell’s Irish Ale House 121 W. Wayne St., Fort Wayne (260) 420-5563, jkodonnells.com The Plate: Signature roasted lamb shank with garlic mashed potatoes J K O’Donnell’s Irish Ale House, like any good Irish pub, serves corned beef and cabbage, fish and chips and other hearty Irish fare. What sets this pub apart, however, is the owner’s commitment to using fresh, local ingredients in the dishes whenever possible. Local farm-raised lamb and beef, fresh vegetables and dairy — from Seven Sons Meats in Fort Wayne and Hawkins Family Farm in North Manchester — can be found on the menu — a commitment that pleases the palates of diners and benefits the community. “Buying local helps improve our community and helps our local businesses grow and prosper,” says Will Passino, head chef. “To me nothing is better than knowing that I received a product that was from someone just outside of town and to have seen the facility firsthand.”

Spire

Colts Grille

299 W. Johnson Road, LaPorte (219) 575-7272, spirefarmtofork.com

110 W. Washington St., Indianapolis (317) 631-2007, coltsgrille. g3restaurants.com

The Plate:

Miller Amish Farm halfchicken with potato purée, dark chicken reduction and rosemary butter

Fisher Farms pork chops glazed with sweet-hot mustard, fresh buttered broccoli and sweet potato tots

Restaurant owner and chef Brad Hindsley grew up on an Indiana farm, and his childhood experiences are what led him to create Spire, a farm-to-fork dining experience, at the northern tip of Indiana. “People don’t realize that there are sources for fresh, organic foods all within 250 miles of them in Indiana,” he says. “I don’t cut corners. If it isn’t available fresh, it isn’t on the menu.” Spire’s extensive supplier list includes farms from all across Indiana — Miller Amish Farm in Orland, Barefoot Acres in Rolling Prairie and Middlebrook Farms in Three Oaks. Hindsley’s dedication to choosing local sources for Spire’s dishes, he says, is his way to “connect the diner’s senses to life’s simplest pleasures, the community to its local farmers and the (restaurant) industry to the earth.”

What might at first seem like your run-of-the-mill downtown Indy sports bar, the Colts Grille is a true delight for those searching for a farm-to-fork dining experience. Indiana meats and fresh Hoosier farm veggies make their ways into many of the restaurant’s dishes. You’ll find meats and fresh vegetables from Fischer Farm and Lambright Farm, both in Jasper, and lamb from Viking Farms in Morristown. “We source locally whenever possible,” says Padraig Cullen, head chef. “This leads to more local jobs, healthier food options and a better understanding of where our food comes from.”

1913 Restaurant & Severin Bar at The Omni Severin, Indianapolis (Photo by Twinkle VanWinkle)

Fisher Farms pork chops glazed with sweet-hot mustard, fresh buttered broccoli and sweet potato tots at Colts Grille (Submitted photo)

Farm Indiana // june 2014

Public Service

HOT TOPICS For those with an eye and a green thumb intent on pepper-growing this season, John Schortgen, manager of Mild to Wild Pepper & Herb Co., is here to provide a few tips. “In the state of Indiana,” says Schortgen, “we are known widely for agriculture and rich farmland. What most people don’t correlate is Hoosiers still grow some of the world’s hottest peppers,” which, of course, go on to create some ferociously hot sauces. Growing peppers can take care and “delicate preparation,” Schortgen says. “Starting plants indoors a few weeks before planting outdoors is a good idea. Once outside, regular watering and plenty of warmth is ideal for most pepper plants in creating near a tropical climate.”

Pacheco Winery in Columbus provides a place for community and good wine By clint smith Photos by joe harpring

n the food and beverage industry, three components are widely accepted as the tenets of success: location, location and location. Since August, Pacheco Winery has occupied the northeast corner of Lafayette Avenue and Third Street in Columbus, a prime piece of real estate that has a rich history and — if things take shape the way owner Douglas Pacheco intends — a colorful future as well. Pacheco grew up in Columbus and has memories of his mother catching the train at the corner where he now operates his winery. In 1924, Karl Scheidt opened the Triangle Service Station, which stayed in business until the early 1970s. The corner spot, with a nice view of the courthouse just a few blocks west, was later “abandoned,” says Pacheco. During a visit to Italy with his wife, Pacheco says, they saw “many tiny wine shops where the sense of community seemed to thrive.” During a later visit to Pacheco’s hometown, seeing the neglected façade of the erstwhile gas station, now in the ever-evolving arts district, got him thinking. “We fell in love with it,” he says, “and decided to restore (the service station) to its former glory.” Both inside and out, Pacheco has wisely preserved accents from the past while providing updated touches. The previous service garage now houses the dining room and wine bar, with the wide, service-bay windows utilized to transform the dining area into an impromptu patio during more pleasant weather. Here and there, the subtle contrasts continue: an antique chandelier hangs over the intimate interior, chain-supported shelving holds rows of glinting wine bottles.

— Visit pachecowinery.com Pacheco Winery produces 14 varietals, which include Cabernet Sauvignon, Chilean Malbec, Spanish Tempranillo, Italian Barolo, Sangiovese and Montepulciano, and also provides a wide range of international wines. For beer-minded imbibers, Pacheco’s menu offers a mix of premium and imported bottles as well as draft beer. There’s also a craft section featuring Goose Island, Redhook, Upland (Bloomington), Omission (gluten-free) and Kona Pipeline. Servers deliver complimentary black bean chips and fresh salsa to the table while customers browse the food menu — a line-up of charcuterie, salads and sandwiches. There’s also a sweets section featuring confections by Uppity Cupcakes and Sweet Rose Bakehouse, both Columbusbased businesses. Now, with nearly a year on the books, Pacheco is turning his attention to working with local farmers to broaden his farm-to-fork network. He’s already established a strong relationship with the Columbus Food Co-Op, as well as The Green Root, a Columbus business that specializes in organic, non-GMO, open-pollinated, heirloom seeds for gardens. “We’re big supporters of Green Root,” says Pacheco. “We buy all our herbs from them — cilantro, thyme, basil — and all our Roma tomatoes.”

Advertising Sales Consultant for Farm Indiana Farm Indiana, a publication of HNE Media, has become Central Indiana’s leading farm publication. A monthly publication of Home News Enterprises, Farm Indiana offers the local news and views of Indiana’s farming world, including features about local families and their homesteads, farm businesses, equipment and technological advances, 4-H and educational outreach programs and more. We are expanding and seeking a regional advertising sales representative. Sales experience is a plus, as is a passion and/or knowledge of the farm industry. This is an outside sales position, which involves daily driving. Base salary, commission and full benefits provided. If you have a heart for farming and desire a career that provides strong opportunity, we would like to hear from you.

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To apply, please email your resume and cover letter to:

Chuck Wells

cwells@hnenewspapers.com No phone calls please. EOE

Though most sweet peppers mature in 60 to 90 days (hot peppers can take as long as 150 days) Schortgen says when to harvest is mostly a matter of choice. “Picking the peppers after ripening can be done at the grower’s discretion of size preference,” he explains.

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

EatLocal Pork chops, left, and a beet salad.

Valparaiso’s Valley restaurant makes simple dishes shine By david hoppe Photos by martin buechley

“M

y marketing strategy is surprise and delight,” says Cory Muro, a founder and executive chef of Valley, a farm-to-fork restaurant on the leading edge of a culinary renaissance beginning to take hold in the Michiana region of northwest Indiana. That sense of delight begins at Valley’s kitchen bar, where diners are encouraged to chat with the cooks preparing such distinctive dishes as crispy fairy tale pumpkin ravioli, featuring house-made semolina ravioli with a red onion-balsamic puree, brie, apple and pumpkin seed granola; or winter white chicken, prepared with caramelized carrots and broccoli, crispy red potatoes, a white wine-shallot sauce, capers and croissant crumbs. Open for just over two years in downtown Valparaiso, Valley, named after Valparaiso’s nickname, “Vale of Paradise,” serves food that is local, fresh and affordable. Thanks to Muro and his team, including co-executive chef Jason Rudy, Valley’s offerings also taste superb. Muro’s story begins along the Gulf Coast on Florida’s Panhandle. He was raised by three women there, including his great-grandmother, Gertrude. She hailed from New Orleans, and by the time Muro was 10, she had taught him to make sausage, pasta and a variety of sauces. Muro landed his first restaurant gig at 14, making sandwiches in a sub shop. Then he found a job in a bakery and, after that, a pizza place. Instead of enrolling in culinary school, Muro set about creating his own apprenticeship program by getting himself hired at the best restaurant he could find, which happened to be Sweet Basil, in Vail, Colo. “I worked a lot, and I worked for free when I could,” he says. “I let them know I really wanted to learn.” Muro would work a seven-hour shift, then come back on his own time to help some more. “I learned whatever they had to teach me. They saw how committed I was.” In Vail, Muro also met his future wife, Blair. A Hoosier, whose father farmed outside Valparaiso, Blair

was a graduate of Purdue University’s hospitality program. She introduced Muro to Indiana’s food ways. Meanwhile, he was becoming an executive chef at Honga’s Lotus Petal, a high-end Pan Asian restaurant in Telluride, Colo., that had just undergone a significant expansion and was having money troubles. Muro cut waste, got a grip on expenses and brought Honga’s back to profitability. This experience convinced him that he could run his own place. But start-up costs and competition in Colo-

rado were prohibitive. Northwest Indiana beckoned. “I’d been coming here and farming with [Blair’s] dad and really liked the community a lot,” Muro recalls. He could also see that Valparaiso was investing in its downtown, placing a special emphasis on encouraging restaurant development. “For me, this is the most sense of community I’ve ever had. It’s a place where I felt I could start a business and establish a family. It was attractive for me, and the city made it attractive as well.” Muro has established Valley as a farm-to-fork destination. He and the Valley team are offering a creative take on what may still be one of America’s great culinary mysteries: Midwestern cuisine. “I feel Midwest cuisine is simple and fresh, nutritious and minimally processed, if at all,” Muro says. “We have to make simple things shine.” This begins with sourcing foods from farmers who operate as close to Valparaiso as possible. A list of farmers from Indiana, Illinois and Michigan who provide food for the restaurant is proudly posted on a chalkboard displayed inside Valley’s down-home, yet elegant, entryway. Pork comes from Birky’s Family Farms in Kouts; Scherf Farms in Michigan City provides dairy; Burek Farms in La Porte offers sweet corn; and poultry is delivered by Miller’s Amish Country. In all cases, products are free of additives, pesticides and other compromising ingredients. Muro considers these farmers his partners and makes a point of visiting every farm he features. “I always say I’m not a very good cook, I just have really good ingredients,” he says. “When we can get asparagus that’s hand-picked that morning — we wash it three times, coat it slightly in olive oil, salt and pepper, and grill it for about 10 seconds — then it goes to your table. That’s something you’ll never experience from a grocery store or a food distributor. If you keep it simple, you don’t have to do a lot to it.” This approach is reflected in Valley’s to-the-point menu. Everything fits on a single page. “It’s really short and matter-of-fact,” says Muro. “That gives us the ability to focus on what we’re doing. Then if we want to do specials, we have that ability. We’re not tied to so many items we’re spreading ourselves thin.” Muro’s sense of focus is heightened by his decision to make Valley a dinner-only establishment. “We get here between 10 and noon every day of the week. We prep all the way up until 4, and then we cook for four hours.” When Valley first opened, Muro designed his menu around the seasons. But that grew stale — for the Valley’s kitchen team, as well as for the restaurant’s growing number of regular customers — so he now changes things on what amounts to a monthly

basis, with plenty of allowance for specials, like his take on such classic dishes as veal scaloppine, substituting pork for veal. Surviving the winter months, he says, is getting easier, thanks to an increasing number of greenhouse growers in the region. And even mega-food distributor Sysco now offers a list of Michigan growers. “I can say, ‘What’s on the Michigan-grown list this week?’ And it’s parsnips, it’s turnips, it’s rutabaga,” he explains. Whatever the time of year, Muro makes sure his menu includes certain favorites, like his cowboy cut pork chop, prepared with honey-apple cider pan sauce, butternut squash, pickled mustard seed and twicebaked potatoes; or a fish dish utilizing yellow perch from Bell Aquaculture in Red Key. Lately, fresh shrimp has been finding its way onto the Valley menu, by way of the Valparaiso Shrimp Co., a local grower specializ-

ing in salt water shrimp raised in a clear water system without chemicals, hormones or antibiotics. Muro is proud to offer a menu that emphasizes quality, while still managing to be affordable. Appetizers like the truffle fries (natural cut fries in white truffle oil with parmesan and parsley), crispy chicken tacos (pulled chicken in a fried gyoza wrapper with sweet chili sauce, radishes, pickled jalapeno and basil), or pig pen (pork belly and stone-ground white grits with house ricotta, organic spinach, preserved lemon and onion haystack) are meant to be shared and are priced up to about $12; while entrees, on average, will run around $20. Service is another way Valley strikes a Midwestern chord. Since the restaurant has never advertised, relying for growth on word-of-mouth, Muro emphasizes the importance of Hoosier hospitality. “As long as we can deliver the product with a smile, be polite, use our manners — really fundamentally basic things — that’s my recipe for success. It’s super simple,” he explains. “It boils down to stuff my great-grandmother drilled into me: Be nice to people; do the right thing.”

>> Valley Kitchen and Bar 55 Franklin St., Valparaiso, (219) 531-8888, www.eatvalley.com

Farm Indiana // june 2014

Brew Foods For a southside catering company, it’s ‘peek’ season for progress

By clint smith photos By mark freeland

rom the lush, green links of a Greenwood golf course to the decidedly more urban digs at the recently opened Tow Yard Brewery in downtown Indy, Jason West and his associate with Grafton Peek Catering, chef Charles Bryant, are busily branching out. “When you put together likeminded people who can envision and share a singular goal,” says West, “you will get things done.” A Center Grove graduate, West attended Indian University in Bloomington, majoring in public finance management. “I was involved with investment banking for around three years until I joined the family golf business in the late 1990s.” West goes on to explain that, with a lot of support from a lot of “excellent people,” the West family grew a company to seven Indiana-based golf courses, including Royal Oak Country Club, in the early 2000s. It was around the same period at erstwhile Royal Oak (now Dye’s Walk Country Club) that West had an idea. “We had the kitchens and too often they were sitting (empty) and not being utilized,” says West. So he teamed up with Bryant, eventually

Charles Bryant, left, and Jason West

founding Grafton Peek Catering in 2006. “The name (is) taken from the late 1880s builder of our Old Town Greenwood Ballroom, located on the northeast corner of Madison and Main street.” Originally from Indiana, Bryant’s formative culinary career occurred in Portland, Ore., where, he says, “Local farmers markets were an every-Saturday event.” From the Pacific Northwest, Bryant moved on to Vermont, where he fostered a relationship with Allenholm Farms, which provided a variety of fresh products for each season the year-round. “I have always believed in supporting local growers,” says Bryant, suggesting that an awareness of where products originate lends more authenticity to the dish being created. “The explosion of the ‘farm-to-fork’ movement allows us to re-establish our ancestral connection to the land,” he adds. Over the past eight years, Grafton Peek has outgrown that country club kitchen. West now owns or operates several event venues in the southside area and caters to many of the metro-region’s largest facilities. And then there’s Grafton Peek’s latest venture as catering partner with Tow Yard Brewery. But let’s backtrack a bit — to West’s high school days at Center Grove. He explains that Tow Yard’s operating partner, Shawn Cannon, also attended Center Grove in the late 1980s. West and Cannon eventually became business associates. Cannon had the idea of brewing beer and constructed a team of people to help Tow Yard get off the ground. So how does Grafton Peek figure in? The catering company is armed to offer farm-to-fork options for the brewery’s clientele. Tow Yard’s deli is open for lunch and dinner, with the owners hope to put together a breakfast menu in the near future. “There will be the daily staples,” says Bryant, “along with an ever-changing selection of weekly and seasonal dishes. The goal being that there is always something new to try.” *FI

Serves

Spring Berry Shortcake with Vanilla Whipped Cream

Here, chef Charles Bryant shares a season-suiting Spring Berry Shortcake recipe. “Do not be intimidated by making the shortcakes,” he says. “It is just like making homemade biscuits. Once you taste these, you will never buy those yellow spongy things again.” Shortcakes: 2 cups all-purpose flour 4 teaspoons baking powder ¾ teaspoon iodized salt ½ cup granulated sugar 6 tablespoons cold butter, cubed ¾ cup heavy cream 1 large egg, beaten

Berries: 2 pints fresh local berries, rinsed and dried (if strawberries, cut off tops and quarter) ½ cup powdered sugar (more sugar may be added if berries are tart) ¼ cup orange juice or water In medium-sized mixing bowl, add berries, sugar and juice or water and stir to incorporate sugar. Cover and refrigerate. Whipped Cream: 1 pint heavy whipping cream ½ cup powdered sugar 1 teaspoon real vanilla extract

Combine dry ingredients in large mixing bowl and mix well. Cut in butter cubes with fork or your hands, working quickly to keep butter cold. You will want pea-sized bits of flour/butter mix. In another bowl, mix cream and beaten egg and pour over flour mixture. Mix everything just until it comes together. Turn dough out onto a floured surface. Roll dough out to about ¼ inch thick. Cut dough into 12 equal portions with a knife or cookie cutter. Combine smaller leftover pieces to form another shortcake if possible. Place on parchment or wax paper-lined cookie sheet, brush with milk and sprinkle tops with sugar.

Using a wire whisk, whip cream in medium-sized bowl with a figure eight motion until soft peaks form. This will take a few minutes. Add sugar and vanilla and continue to whip until desired consistency is achieved. Cover and refrigerate. If whipped cream softens a bit, just re-whip until stiff.

Bake in preheated 325 degree oven until golden brown. Cool completely. For Assembly: Slice cake in half. Place bottom on dessert plate. Top with berries and whipped cream. Cap with the other half of shortcake and drizzle berry juice over. Garnish with powdered sugar and fresh mint leaves.

AUCTION RESULTS

MAY 6 • 6:30 PM Morgantown Fire Dept.

269 N Highland St • Morgantown, IN 46140

113 +/- Acres D0 L O 00 , S$ 4 4in0 4 Tracts Offered

Morgan County Jackson Township

5110 S Lick Creek Rd • Morgantown, IN 46140

Cropland • Woods

Hensley Township • j ohnson County

May 17 • 10:00 am th

Real Estate & Personal Property Auction will be held at the property

D0 L O 00

2665 W Indian Creek Rd • Trafalgar, IN 46181

99+/- Acres • 3 Tracts

S$8 4 0,

Secluded Executive Home • Buildings Classified Forest • Hay Ground • Ponds

Country Home Potential Homesites

Owner: Melanie Horton

Owners: G. Alan & Rebecca Von Stein

DAVE BONNELL 812-343-4313 MICHAEL BONNELL 812-343-6036

HLS# PDB-11424/11428

Online Bidding Available (Real Estate Only) HRES IN Auct. Lic. #AC69200019

Auctioneer: Chad Metzger, IN Auct. Lic. #AC31300015

800.424.2324 www.halderman.com

This may include coverage for animals while participating in a 4-H project. Animals that can be covered include cattle, horses, hogs, goats and sheep. Call today for details.

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Farm Indiana // june 2014

june Events May 28 Find out more about the major challenges facing small farmers in the area and how you can help them to build a more sustainable local food system at “Beyond Farmers Markets: Sustaining the Next Generation of Local Food Farmers,” presented by Indiana University professor Jennifer Meta Robinson, co-author of “The Farmer’s Market Book: Growing Food, Cultivating Community.” Time: 6 to 7 p.m. Location: Upland Brewing Co. Banquet Facility, 350 W. 11th St., Bloomington. Information: marciaveldman@ gmail.com JUNE 7 Enjoy a local farm-to-fork dinner and farm tour and support the Terra Madre Fundraiser for local delegates attending Terra Madre, the world’s largest sustainable food event. Meal will feature five courses prepared by chef Carlos Salazar and tour led by Chris Baggott. Time: 4 p.m. Location: Tyner Pond Farm, 7408 E. Road 200S, Greenfield. Information: (317) 3453099 or tynerpondfarm.com JUNE 7-8 Get your boots on and grab the kids for the Boone County 4-H Rodeo. Cost: Admission is $7, kids 10 and younger are free. Advance tickets, $5. Time: Saturday, 7 p.m. and Sunday, 2 p.m. Location: Boone County 4-H Fairgrounds, 1300 E. Road 100S, Lebanon. Information: (765) 482-6815 or boonecountyrodeo.org

JUNE 7-21 Experience the joy of gardening at Hamilton County’s Gardens & All Things Green. Garden tours, classes and demonstrations run throughout the two-week event. Times vary. Locations vary throughout Hamilton County. Information: (317) 8483181 or visithamiltoncounty.com

JUNE 21 Salt Creek Festival. Food, music and kayak and canoe races will be part of the firstever Salt Creek Festival in Nashville. The inaugural “Celebrate the Creek” event will include the dedication of the new Salt Creek Trail. Time: 10 a.m. Information: (812) 988-2211.

JUNE 15 Join Distelrath Farms in celebrating dads at the farm’s Father’s Day Potluck and learn more about this urban educational farm tucked into the southeastern corner of Indianapolis. Cost: $10 for carnivores, free for vegetarians. Time: 2 p.m. Sunday. Location: Distelrath Farms, 6302 E. Raymond St., Indianapolis. Information: (317) 478-373 or distelrathfarms.com

Know Your Neighbor by Friends of Johnson County Agriculture. Adults and children can learn about grain farming, soils and water, modern farm equipment and safety, livestock and 4-H. Doughnuts, beverages, games and activities will be provided. Cost: Free. Time: 8:30 to 10:30 a.m. Location: Campbell Farm. 5417 E. 300N, Franklin. Information: jccf.org/blog/2014/03/15/ general/friends-of-agriculture

JUNE 16 Find out more about your local slow food movement at the monthly Slow Food Indy board meeting, open to the public. Time: 5:30 p.m. Location: The Platform at City Market, 202 E. Market St., Indianapolis. Information: (317) 454-8512 or theplatformindy.org

JUNE 27-29 Get the whole family together for the FARM Club Antique Tractor & Engine Show. This three-day event is not only free, but full of great history and fun activities for the whole family. Times vary. Location: Ripley County Fairgrounds, 524 W. Beech St., Osgood. Information: (812) 654-3949 or farmclubonline.com

JUNE 16-17 The 2014 Farm Management Tour, organized by the Purdue University Department of Agricultural Economics, showcases five successful Indiana farms in Spencer and Dubois counties. A variety of farm-related topics will be highlighted in interviews with the host farmers and mini-tours at three of the southern Indiana farms. Time: 1 to 5 p.m. June 16, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. June 17. Locations vary. Information: (765) 494-4310, agecon.purdue.edu/ commercialag/progevents/tour.html

A TRADITION of Excellence

GREEN DRINKS BLOOMINGTON Held the fourth Wednesday of every month through October. Attend for a lively time networking with others who are interested in making a greener world. Time: 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. Cost: $5 suggested donation. Location: Upland Brewing Co. Banquet Facility, 350 W. 11th St., Bloomington. Information: greendrinks.org

Strawberry Festivals jUNE 5 Enjoy delicious, fresh strawberries and fun family activities at the Kokomo Strawberry Festival. Time: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Location: Courthouse Square, Kokomo. Information: (765) 457-5301 or greaterkokomo.com JUNE 6-8 Celebrate strawberry season at the Rosedale Strawberry Festival, located in picturesque Parke County, known as the covered bridge capital of the world. Time: 5 to 10 p.m. Location: Main Street and Civic Center, 40 N. Main St., Rosedale. Information: (765) 832-9455 or historicrosedale.com JUNE 12 Hosted by the Cathedral Women of Christ Church Cathedral, more than 17,000 strawberry shortcakes will be served at the 49th annual Christ Church Strawberry Festival on Monument Circle. Time: 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Location: Monument Circle, Indianapolis. Information: (317) 636-4577 or cccindy.org JUNE 13-15 Perfect pick for an early summer trip to Crawfordsville for the Strawberry Festival, with plenty of entertainment and fun. Times vary. Location: Lane Place Grounds, 212 S. Water St., Crawfordsville. Information: (800) 866-3973 or thestrawberryfestival.com

Celebrating 30 Years of Business

Awarded

Top 5 Brock Dealer

Top 10 Sweet Dealer

2013

A Tradition of Excellence

4814 W Old State Road 46, Greensburg, IN 812-663-4020 • 800-241-4020 www.obermeyeragrigroup.com