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WHERE DOES COFFEE COME FROM?

BREWING AND DRINKING COOKING WITH COFFEE

WHAT IS THE PROCESS?

ARABICA AND ROBUSTA

WHAT TYPES OF COFFEE ARE THERE?

Coffee

Histo

An Ethiopian Legend

Coffee grown worldwide can trace its heritage back centuries to the ancient coffee forests on the Ethiopian plateau. There, legend says the goat herder Kaldi first discovered the potential of these beloved beans. The story goes that that Kaldi discovered coffee after he noticed that after eating the berries from a certain tree, his goats became so energetic that they did not want to sleep at night.

Kaldi reported his findings to the abbot of the local monastery, who made a drink with the berries and found that it kept him alert through the long hours of evening prayer. The abbot shared his discovery with the other monks at the monastery, and knowledge of the energizing berries began to spread around the monastery. As word moved east and coffee reached the Arabian Peninsula, it began a journey which would bring these beans across the globe.

The Arabian Peninsula

Coffee cultivation and trade began on the Arabian Peninsula. By the 15th century, coffee was being grown in the Yemeni district of Arabia and by the 16th century it was known in Persia, Egypt, Syria, and Turkey.

Coffee was not only enjoyed in homes, but also in the many public coffee houses — called qahvehkhaneh— which began to appear in cities across the Near East. The popularity of the coffee houses was unequaled and people frequented them for all kinds of activities.

Not only did the patrons drink coffee and engage in conversation, but they also listened to music, watched performers, played chess and kept current on the news. Coffee houses quickly became such an important center for the exchange of information that they were often referred to as “Schools of the Wise.” With thousands of pilgrims visiting the holy city of Mecca each year from all over the world, knowledge of this “wine of Araby” began to spread.

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Coffee Comes to Europe

European travelers to the Near East brought back stories of an unusual dark black beverage. By the 17th century, coffee had made its way to Europe and was becoming very popular across the continent. Some people reacted to this new beverage with a suspicion or fear, calling it the “bitter invention of Satan.” The local clergy condemned coffee when it came to Venice in 1615. The controversy was so great that Pope Clement VIII was asked to intervene. He decided to taste the beverage for himself before making a decision and found the drink so satisfying that he gave it papal approval.

Despite such controversy, coffee houses were quickly becoming centers of social activity and communication in the major cities of England, Austria, France, Germany, and Holland. In England “penny universities” sprang up, so called because for the price of a penny one could purchase a cup of coffee and engage in stimulating conversation.

Coffee began to replace the common breakfast drink beverages of the time — beer and wine. Those who drank coffee instead of alcohol began the day alert and energized, and not surprisingly, the quality of their work was greatly improved. (We like to think of this a precursor to the modern office coffee service).

The New World

In the mid-1600’s, coffee was brought to New Amsterdam, later called New York by the British. Though coffee houses rapidly began to appear, tea continued to be the favored drink in the New World until 1773, when the colonists revolted against a heavy tax on tea imposed by King George III. The revolt, known as the Boston Tea Party, would forever change the American drinking preference to coffee.

Plantations Around the World

As demand for the beverage continued to spread, there was fierce competition to cultivate coffee outside of Arabia. The Dutch finally got seedlings in the latter half of the 17th century. Their first attempts to plant them in India failed, but they were successful with their efforts in Batavia, on the island of Java in what is now the country of Indonesia.

The plants thrived and soon the Dutch had a productive and growing trade in coffee. They then expanded the cultivation of coffee trees to the islands of Sumatra and Celebes.

“Coffee - the favorite drink of the civilized world.” - Thomas Jefferson
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ry

Coming to the Americas

In 1714, the Mayor of Amsterdam presented a gift of a young coffee plant to King Louis XIV of France. The King ordered it to be planted in the Royal Botanical Garden in Paris. In 1723, a young naval officer, Gabriel de Clieu obtained a seedling from the King’s plant. Despite a challenging voyage — complete with horrendous weather, a saboteur who tried to destroy the seedling, and a pirate attack — he managed to transport it safely to Martinique. Once planted, the seedling not only thrived, but it’s credited with the spread of over 18 million coffee trees on the island of Martinique in the next 50 years. Even more incredible is that this seedling was the parent of all coffee trees throughout America.

The famed Brazilian coffee owes its existence to Francisco de Mello Palheta, who was sent by the emperor to French Guiana to get coffee seedlings. The French were not willing to share, but the French Governor’s wife, captivated by his good looks, gave him a large bouquet of flowers before he left— buried inside were enough coffee seeds to begin what is today a billion-dollar industry.

Missionaries and travelers, traders and colonists continued to carry coffee seeds to new lands, and coffee trees were planted worldwide. Plantations were established in magnificent tropical forests and on rugged mountain highlands. Some crops flourished, while others were short-lived. New nations were established on coffee economies. Fortunes were made and lost. By the end of the 18th century, coffee had become one of the world’s most profitable export crops. After crude oil, coffee is the most sought commodity in the world. E

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There are both hot and cold methods of extracting flavour and aroma from ground coffee, and the caffeine content varies with the variety of bean and method of brewing. Generally speaking, one serving of Arabica instant coffee contains about 70 mg of caffeine, while a serving of brewed Robusta may contain 200 mg. In steeping or boiling, pulverized coffee is measured into hot water. In percolation, water is brought to a boil in an urn and fed up a tube to a basket holding the coffee. After filtering through the coffee, the water drips back to the urn. In the filter, or drip, method, hot water is slowly filtered through the coffee and dripped into a receptacle. The espresso machine forces boiled water under pressure through finely ground coffee. After the coffee has steeped in the hot water, a mesh-lined plunger is used to push the grounds to the bottom, leaving the coffee above ready to pour directly from the container. In vacuum brewing, steam pressure pushes heated water into an upper chamber, which holds the grounds. Once removed from the heat, steam recondenses in the lower chamber, thus creating a partial vacuum. With the

and Brewing drinking

pressure now higher in the upper chamber, the brewed coffee is forced back down through the filter-topped spout into the lower chamber, where it is ready to drink. There is a long-standing tradition that the best way to serve coffee drinks is “fresh and hot,” within moments of being brewed, though that is not necessarily the case. It is true that espresso should be enjoyed immediately, before the highly volatile aromas dissipate, but brewed coffee that is too hot not only can burn the tongue but also masks the full complement of flavours. Only after it has

cooled slightly can more of the inherent flavour be captured. Finally, high temperature is not needed to brew coffee—as long as one is willing to wait about 12 hours. In coldwater extraction, dampened grounds are left to sit and steep. When strained after some 12 hours, the resulting “cold brew” has a robust but smooth taste without the bitter acids and oils that traditionally accompany hotwater extraction methods. The cold concentrate keeps well for up to two weeks when refrigerated, and it is ideal as a cooking ingredient. E

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Processing the bean

The ripened fruits of the coffee plant are known as coffee cherries, and each cherry generally contains two coffee seeds (“beans”) positioned flat against one another. About 5 percent of the cherries contain only one seed; called peaberries, those single seeds are smaller and denser and produce a sweeter, more flavourful coffee. The cherries are processed by disengaging the coffee seeds from their coverings and from the pulp and by drying the seeds; all beans must be removed from their fruit and dried before roasting. Three techniques are used for processing the coffee: the dry, or “natural,” process, the wet process, and a hybrid process called the semi-washed, or “pulped natural,” method. The coffee resulting from those processes is called green coffee, which is then ready for roasting.

Grading

After green coffee has been hulled and processed, it is ready to be graded and sold

for roasting. The practice of grading and classifying coffee gives sellers and buyers a guarantee concerning the origin, nature, and quality of the product to aid their negotiations. Each coffee-producing country has a certain number of defined types and grades—based on characteristics such as growing altitude and region, botanical variety, method of processing, roast appearance, and bean size, density, and defects—but there is no universal grading and classification system.

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Decaffeination

The term decaffeinated coffee may strike some as an oxymoron, but a number of coffee drinkers relish the taste of coffee but cannot tolerate the jolt from caffeine. The main methods of decaffeination are based on chemical solvents, carbon filtering, carbon dioxide extraction, or triglycerides. In all cases, to make “decaf,” the caffeine is removed in the green bean stage. Regardless of the method of decaffeination, some adulteration of the coffee bean results along the way, and in no case is 100 percent of the caffeine removed. Extracting a good shot of espresso from decaf coffee beans is perhaps the biggest challenge of all.

Roasting

The aromatic and gustatory qualities of coffee are developed by the high temperatures to which they are subjected during roasting or broiling. Temperatures are raised progressively from about 180 to 250 °C (356 to 482 °F) and heated for anywhere from 7 to 20 minutes, depending on the type of light or dark roast desired. The most important effect of roasting is the appearance of the characteristic aroma of coffee. Roasting too long can destroy volatile flavour and aroma compounds, and Robusta beans are often deliberately overroasted to rid the coffee of its natural harshness.

Grinding

Some coffees are left as whole beans to be ground at the time of purchase or by the consumer at home. Much coffee, however, is ground, or milled, by the manufacturer immediately after roasting.

In most modern roasting plants, grinding is accomplished by feeding the coffee through a series of serrated or scored rollers, set at progressively smaller gaps, that first crack the beans and then cut them to the desired size.

The degree of fineness is important. If a coffee is too coarse, water filters through too fast to pick up flavour; if it is too fine, water filters through too slowly and retains particles that deposit at the bottom of the cup.

Packaging

Effective packaging prevents air and moisture from reaching the coffee. Ground coffee alters rapidly and loses its aromatic qualities within a few days if it is not put into hermetically sealed containers immediately. The air, especially in humid atmospheres, causes rancidity through the oxidation of fatty components. Modern packaging materials, plastic films such as polyethylene and complexes of aluminum and cellulose, are capable of conserving the quality of coffee for a time. The most satisfactory solution to the problem, however, is packing under vacuum or in an inert gas, in rigorously impervious containers. At the turn of the 21st century, manufacturers responded to consumer desire for freshness and easy-to-brew systems by producing singlecup coffeemakers using coffee capsules—small disposable containers filled with a premeasured amount of coffee and sealed airtight to maintain freshness. Their ease of use made them very popular, though they have been criticized for the plastic waste they generate. E

Coffee
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o o k i n g o k n

with coffee

Water is not the only vehicle for conveying coffee’s character once it has left the bean. Coffee can also be made in alcohol or oil. Although coffee made that way is not good for drinking, it has really interesting culinary applications. Coffee extracted into alcohol, for example, makes a useful ingredient for crafting cocktails. It can also be a good way to add a small amount of coffee aroma to a sauce without adding bitterness. Most of the bitter compounds are not extracted if pure ethanol (such as Everclear) is used. The resulting concentrate is analogous to vanilla extract. Coffee made with a mixture of water and alcohol can produce a bit (if not the best) of both worlds: the pure, smooth character that alcohol attracts plus the extra taste compounds that water draws from the coffee. Vodka, a pure neutral spirit diluted with water, is a great candidate for that approach.

If one uses a pure fat, such as a neutral cooking oil or clarified butter, to make coffee, only the fatsoluble aroma compounds in the beans will be captured. That does include most of the aromas, but it carries none of the compounds that contribute to taste. In certain cases, that may be the desired effect.

There too a greater balance can be achieved by adding some water to the mix. Melted unclarified butter or heavy cream both contain plenty of water. Cream infused with freshly crushed coffee beans produces an intensely flavoured ice cream. Because espresso is extracted at higher pressure than coffee brewed other ways, the compounds drawn off the beans are more volatile and dissipate quickly, which is why espresso should be consumed immediately. By the time espresso is integrated into a dish and the cooking or preparation of the latter is complete, the peak flavour of the coffee has been lost. E

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C

TYPES of coffee beans

Arabica

Arabica is the most popular type of bean used for coffee. Arabica beans are considered higher quality than Robusta, and they’re also more expensive. They result in coffee with a sweeter, less harsh taste.

Robusta

They are typically cheaper to produce because the Robusta plant is easier to grow. They have a higher caffeine content and taste more bitter than Arabica beans. These beans are used to make instant coffee and espresso blends.

Hot drinks

Espresso

When beans are used to make espresso they’re more finely ground, and they’re brewed with a higher grounds-to-water ratio than what’s used for coffee. The result is a more concentrated liquid with a bolder flavor.

Black Coffee

No frills here: Black coffee is made from plain ground coffee beans that are brewed hot. It’s served without added sugar, milk, or flavorings.

Decaf

Coffee beans naturally contain caffeine, but roasters can use several different processes to remove almost all of it. Decaf coffee is brewed with these beans.

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Latte

This classic drink is typically 1/3 espresso and 2/3 steamed milk, topped with a thin layer of foam.

Cappuccino

The standard ratio is equal parts espresso, steamed milk, and foam. It’s often served in a 6-ounce cup (smaller than a latte cup) and can be topped with a sprinkling of cinnamon.

Flat White

Cortado

This drink, which hails from Spain, is half espresso, half steamed milk. Unlike many Italian coffee drinks, it contains little to no foam. It’s typically served in a 4.5-ounce glass.

Macchiato

Like the latte, this drink consists of espresso and steamed milk, but the ratio of espresso to milk is higher. Baristas also fold the milk as it steams, which creates a more velvety texture.

Mocha Latte

This sweet twist on the latte is flavored with sugar and chocolate, usually in the form of cocoa powder, melted chocolate, or syrup.

Red Eye

When you need an extra caffeine boost, go for this two-in-one drink: It’s coffee with a shot of espresso.

Americano

Order this drink and you’ll get a shot of espresso diluted with hot water.

A macchiato is a shot of espresso with just a touch of steamed milk or foam. In Italian, macchiato means “stained” or “spotted,” so a caffè macchiato refers to coffee that’s been stained with milk.

Café au Lait

This fancy-sounding French drink is actually super simple: It’s equal parts coffee and steamed or scalded milk.

Irish Coffee

This boozy drink is a combination of black coffee, whiskey, and sugar, topped with a dollop of whipped cream.

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Cold

drinks

Iced Coffee

Is there anything better than a glass of iced coffee on a hot day (or any day, for that matter)? The simplest way to make it: Brew a regular cup of hot coffee, then cool it over ice. Add whatever milk and sweeteners you like.

Cold Brew

Cold brew is one of the biggest coffee trends of the last decade, and for good reason: It’s made by slowly steeping coffee grounds over cool or room-temperature water, so it tastes smoother and less bitter than regular iced coffee, which is brewed hot.

Iced Latte

The chilled version of a latte is simply espresso and milk over ice.

Frappe

This word can be used to describe a variety of coffee and espresso drinks that have been blended with ice. The slushy-like drinks often contain some kind of milk and a flavored syrup, plus a top layer of whipped cream.

Nitro Cold Brew

Cutting-edge coffee roasters developed this newer type of cold brew using techniques from the beer industry: It’s infused with nitrogen bubbles, so it has a frothy, beer-like texture. Trendy coffee houses dispense nitro cold brew from taps, and you can buy it by the can from RISE Brewing Co. and Starbucks.

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Coffee is love

May edition

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