19 minute read
FLAVOR IN KC
In the Kitchen RED CABBAGE
BY Cody Hogan PHOTOS BY Aaron Leimkuehler
As the season of indulgence comes to a close (Restaurant Week being the only obstacle left for a slimmer, trimmer New Year), my mind turns to—red cabbage. No, really. I love cabbage of all kinds, and since salads are an obvious route to healthful habits and cabbage is one of the best available salad greens at this time of year, the anthocyanin- and ber-loaded crucifer is a versatile, delicious, and logical choice.
Although available year-round, cabbage is at its sweetest after a light frost. e noticeable increase in sweetness for many autumn and winter vegetables is due to their own sense of self-preservation—with the onset of cool weather, the plants increase their sugar content to act as natural “antifreeze.” If stored for a very long time or in arid conditions, red cabbage will lose moisture and crunch. Before buying, always give it a squeeze and check its heft—the cabbage should feel heavy for its size and very rm without any give when pressed. at being said, cabbage is an exceptional storage vegetable and can last for weeks in the crisper drawer of the fridge even after it has been cut (if the cut surface turns gray or black, just trim it o before use). So don’t let a large cabbage intimidate you—it doesn’t have to be consumed in one sitting.
My original intention was to write a single, simple salad recipe, but I couldn’t decide on just one—so here are four, each evolving out of the preceding version with recommendations for using each. And as with all of my recipes, I encourage you to tailor these to t your own preferences and needs, and make them your own. juice and a good oil, such as extra-virgin olive oil, a nut oil, or something more neutral (and extremely healthful) like avocado oil (see In Your Pantry for ratios, details, and choices of vinegar and other acids). Season the cabbage with salt and pepper and toss again, tasting to adjust as necessary. Cabbage prepared in this manner can be a revelation if you are accustomed to rich and creamy coleslaw or cabbage salads dressed with mayonnaise and sugar and who knows what else. e avors are crystal clear and vibrant, the crunch refreshing. is austere version has the added bene t of being stable for hours at room temperature—great for a bu et—and even longer if refrigerated. Over time, the crunch may mellow but not in an unpleasant way, and the acid in the dressing will change the color of the cabbage to a lovely and much brighter shade of magenta. I love to use this salad to top a good sandwich (herby porchetta or cold cuts, especially, but a bratwurst would bene t as well). It could also be a refreshing companion to a smoky slab of ribs. e next stop on the salad train would include the addition of slices of radish, apple, or pear, and green onion or shallot. e salad with these fruity forti cations would be lovely accompanying a grilled cheese sandwich or bowl of soup, something with a little extra richness. I recently served this salad with a cheese sou é, and it was a perfect and memorable complement.
For a more substantial salad, one that could stand alone, add raisins or other dried fruit (chopped into bite-size pieces if necessary), toasted nuts, and shavings or crumbles of cheese—a nutty one like Comté
The Evolving Chopped Cabbage Salad
ink of this salad as a train with lots of stops enabling you to disembark at the rst station, one of the stops in the middle, or all the way at the nal destination. You’re sure to nd something delicious at every stop—just let the rest of the menu determine your itinerary.
Begin with a crisp head of red cabbage, peeling the outer few leaves away until you have fresh looking leaves with no blemishes or desiccated patches. I hesitate to indicate the amount of cabbage you will need because the size of heads can vary dramatically. erefore, begin with the amount of cabbage you think you need, slicing it as thin as possible by hand with a knife or mandolin. You can also slice it with a food processor, which will accomplish the task in seconds, but it does limit your choice of thickness for slicing and can look like your cabbage was chopped willy-nilly to toss in a trough to feed the farm animals. For the most simple salad, toss the shredded cabbage in a wide bowl with a dressing of good vinegar or lemon or aged Gouda, Grana or Parmigiano Reggiano. Brined cheeses like feta would be interesting as well, as could vegan nut-based cheeses. Due to the complexity of this salad, I would use it to accompany simple proteins, such as a ham steak, crispy duck breast, or leftover roast turkey, a grilled portobello mushroom, or even a slice of crispy baked or fried tofu. e addition of protein brings us to the nal stop on the cabbage salad express. Our salad up to this point makes the perfect place to use up leftover rotisserie chicken or other roasted meats. Poached chicken is a fast and avorful option as well (either a whole chicken or parts— breasts are by far the fastest and easiest to prepare). Just shred the cooked meats and toss them in the vinaigrette and seasonings. To make the salad even more lling, a few slices of avocado would certainly be in order, and an herb, such as fresh cilantro or Italian parsley, would be the nal gilding on a fantastically healthful and delicious meal. In fact, no matter where you decide to stop on your red-cabbage journey, it might just feel like the season of indulgence hasn’t come to an end.
SOMETHING SOUR
ACIDITY is an oft overlooked or unrecognized component of a balanced dish that when neglected can result in bland, abby, uninteresting food, especially concerning salads. e two most common forms of acid to use in cooking are citrus fruits (citric acid) and vinegars (acetic acid). In terms of sourness, they are essentially interchangeable, but the acidity level and speci c avor varies from product to product. e usual ratio of oil to acid is 3 parts oil to 1 part acid, but this ratio can certainly be manipulated to t the situation. Feel free to make substitutions, and let some of these pantry staples inspire your next sensational salad.
Citrus
While lemon may be the fi rst citrus fruit that comes to mind for adding a little sunshine to a salad, don’t overlook other members of the citrus family. In particular, limes (which have a similar level of acidity to lemons—fi ve to six percent) are especially handy for Caribbean, Mexican, and Asian-infl uenced salads. Meyer lemons (smooth skin on the outside, less acidic than standard lemons on the inside) have a nuanced complexity and perfume. Oranges (which are usually too mild to dress a salad on their own) and grapefruit (whose bitterness can be overwhelming in some dishes) can be combined with lemon or lime to achieve the required level of sourness for the dressing and still lend their own fl avors.
Wine Vinegars
Most vinaigrettes are made with winebased vinegars (hence the vin in vinaigrette). Their acid (acetic acid as opposed to citric acid in citrus) averages around six percent, although some, like sherry vinegar, can be as high as seven to eight percent. White wine vinegars tend to be more delicate, while red wine vinegars (the workhorse of salad vinegars) tend to be slightly more complex and fruit forward. Balsamic vinegar is another thing entirely, although most of what you fi nd on grocery store shelves is more closely related to red wine vinegar than to the true Balsamico Tradizionale condiment. White balsamic vinegar, a relative newcomer in the world of vinegar, is currently popular and boasts a bold and fruity aroma that pairs well with sharp and pungent cheeses and sulfurous vegetables. Good sherry vinegar is especially companionable to certain ingredients like peppers and nutty cheeses.
Apple Cider and Rice Vinegars
The least acidic of culinary vinegars, apple cider vinegar (5%) and rice vinegar (around 4%) are also quite versatile, especially when more subtle acidity is required. Apple cider vinegar is a natural complement to salads containing fruit (especially apples—duh), and also has purported health benefi ts that millions swear by. Rice vinegar is mild in fl avor, similar to white wine vinegar. Use it for Asian inspired salads, especially in combination with soy sauce and a hint of toasted sesame oil.
In Your Cocktail 9TH & STATE
by Kelsey Cipolla
The Gambler
The historic structure at 1717 W. 9th Street has lived many lives. Built by Pabst Brewing Co. in 1911, it’s been a saloon, a casino, a jazz venue, and even a fetish club, and the latest owners are paying homage to that rich past with 9th & State.
Heather Hamilton and Sean Smith opened the bar on the building’s first floor in June, juxtaposing the elegance of the original tin ceilings and colorfully tiled floor with clusters of comfy, no-frills seating areas and two ping-pong tables guests are encouraged to use, even if they’re not ordering a drink from the massive bar.
Hamilton and Smith were looking for a live/work space when they came across their now home in summer 2020.
“We always liked this building driving by it, but we didn’t know it was for sale,” Hamilton says. “We were just blown away by how well preserved it was. The more history we learned about it—it’s just crazy.”
Although they toyed around with different ideas for the property (which also includes a basement they could see someday becoming a
speakeasy, and a second oor that boasts a ballroom and an apartment where the couple now lives), the presence of the big bar helped them decide to open a cocktail concept. ere was just one problem: ey had no experience bartending. In fact, Smith doesn’t really drink, and Hamilton knew how to make just one cocktail before opening 9th & State—her personal favorite, a manhattan.
Fortunately, they were introduced to Caro omas, an artist and mixologist who worked with the couple to develop the bar’s menu. She made drinks for them to try and ultimately settled on a lineup that includes quality ingredients but doesn’t feel overly pretentious or fancy, although they are served in vintage glassware Hamilton has collected from estate sales, family, and friends over the years.
Some of the drinks serve as a playful nod to 9th & State’s previous occupants, including two gin, vodka, and lime-based cocktails that we’re not sure we can print the names of—when you see them on the menu, you’ll understand why. e bar also o ers an old fashioned with brown butter and brown sugar and the surprisingly silky bartender’s breakfast, a mix of whiskey, egg, and a delightfully assertive dose of roasted walnut. And guests can enjoy a limited selection of wines, ciders, and beers—which of course includes PBR.
Hamilton is partial to the Ape Hanger, omas’ update on the espresso martini made with cold brew, chicory, and apricot. It’s one of several o erings on 9th & State’s “cocktails for good” section of the menu, with ten percent of sales from drinks bene ting organizations like e Huntington’s Disease Society of America. e bar also wants to be a force for positivity at the local level, showcasing works for sale from area artists, hosting live music, and helping revitalize their chunk of the West Bottoms.
“I feel like this side is kind of starting to come alive, and there are a lot of local people who have been investing around here, which makes me happy,” Hamilton says. 9th-state.com A spectacular, contemporary venue with transformable reception spaces and a magnificent courtyard. 1900bldg.com (913) 730–1905
Gambler
This recent addition to 9th & State’s menu is inspired by the building’s time as The Antler’s Club in the 1930s, a casino and jazz club where Charlie Parker and Buster Smith played.
2 ounces tequila .75 ounce St. George Spiced Pear Liqueur .5 ounce Giffard Vanille de Madagascar Liqueur 1 ounce lime juice Shake with ice and serve. Modern-American cuisine from award-winning Chef Linda Duerr. Chef Duerr and team present elegant fare and carefully curated menus for a variety of special occasions. therestaurantat1900.com (913) 730–1900
1900 Building 1900 Shawnee Mission Parkway Mission Woods, Kansas
In Culinary News
THE CLASSIC COOKIE
BRYAN SPARKS, the chef-owner behind meal prep service Beloved on the Go, has history with e Classic Cookie: A long list of Sparks’ family members have worked at the Waldo restaurant over the years. Now, he’s making his own mark as the restaurant’s new owner alongside partner Hailey Allen. Guests can expect a similar breakfast and lunch experience in a refreshed space, which also now features a full espresso bar and bakery counter. e couple has all those namesake classic cookie recipes but also plans to expand the pastry program, introducing lots of seasonal options. “We’re just excited to be in the neighborhood and carry on this spot being in Waldo,” Allen says. Also available? Grab-and-go options co-branded with Beloved, which will now operate out of the restaurant’s kitchen. classiccookiekc.com
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In Culinary News
LAZIA
LAZIA IS BACK, and it just might be better than ever. The Crossroads Hotel’s signature restaurant reopened in mid-November with chef Justin Kent at the helm and a new lineup of dishes marrying traditional Italian cuisine with modern influences. Diners are welcomed with a glass of the house amaro before entering the largely unchanged dining area and perusing the menu, which includes cicchetti (small bites) such as n’duja, a spreadable, spicy sausage, and hand-dipped ricotta. Alpine bread dumplings, toasted ravioli and tuna crudo are among the appetizer options or opt for the hand-pulled mozzarella made tableside. Lazia also serves up a selection of Neapolitan-style pizzas, robust main courses meant to share, and house-made risottos and pastas, such as the rigatoni alla gricia, a simple dish loaded with flavor courtesy of guanciale and pecorino. crossroadshotelkc.com/foodand-drink/lazia-restaurant
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In Culinary News
THE PEACOCK
THE OWNERS of Bistro 303 are growing their Westport presence with The Peacock, an intimate new restaurant in the space next door. Led by chef Brian Mehl, The Peacock offers an expansive menu influenced by cuisines from around the world—tom kha gai with coconut broth and smoked duck; periperi spiced chicken with charred greens and chamoy butter; and Canadian salmon with creamy parsnip, pickled red cabbage and anchovy sauce. Salads, pastas, and desserts—like the pecan oatmeal cookie pie with granny smith apples, tamari cider caramel, and oat crumble—are also available. “We wanted a place for people to gather that felt quaint, inviting, inclusive, and focused on the cuisine, and that’s exactly what The Peacock is,” said co-owner Jeffrey Schmitz. thepeacockkc.com
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Reservation for One SHINJU SUSHI AND HIBACHI
by Kelsey Cipolla photos by Aaron Leimkuehler
Flames dance toward the ceiling and onion volcanoes erupt as “Happy birthday” is sung for the third time in less than an hour: Welcome to dinner on a weeknight at Shinju Sushi and Hibachi, a new restaurant at the Shops of Prairie Village.
Families, friends, and apparently a whole host of people celebrating birthdays gather around three U-shaped hibachi tables in the restaurant’s dining room. They offer a front-row seat to the entertaining process of watching your food chopped, seasoned, and cooked on the grill. And at Shinju, the view is even closer than you’d expect because of chairs that are a little too short for comfort. They place diners at about chest height against the dining counter, which makes for a slightly awkward eating experience, although most
guests seem to adjust to it fairly quickly.
Each hibachi entrée comes with a cup of miso soup and a salad delivered swiftly after ordering. The combo feels familiar and comforting, and the salad’s traditional ginger dressing makes full use of the root’s zingy flavor.
Then the show begins as the chef rolls into view with a cart of ingredients and a clear sense of showmanship. If you’ve been to a hibachi restaurant before, you’re likely accustomed to the stunts you’ll see here—spinning spatulas with dizzying speed; juggling raw eggs; arranging the rings of a chopped onion in descending size, pouring oil down the middle and setting it ablaze; and the ever-popular (or dreaded) food toss.
Although many spots opt to throw chunks of shrimp, Shinju goes with bits of fried egg launched from behind the grill toward guests’ open and expectant maws. Such is the magic of a hibachi restaurant that people who start their dinner as strangers end up fist-bumping over shared egg-catching success and cheering for their tablemates with a fervor usually reserved for sporting events.
These interactive elements, along with watching the frying rice, a medley of veggies, and the meats of your and your tablemates’ choice, are typically the highlight of the dining experience. But Shinju sets itself apart with the food—the fried rice is garlic-forward; the zucchini, mushrooms, and onions are tender and retain their distinctive tastes; and the proteins are each given the appropriate care.
Whether you select steak, chicken, shrimp or one of the less traditional options (Shinju offers everything from filet mignon and calamari to scallops and lobster tail), it’s an incredibly satisfying plate of food, even if you didn’t see it come together before your very eyes.
Hibachi is the main attraction at Shinju—the flames and cheering pretty much guarantee it—but the other half of the dining room is dedicated to standard tables where guests can enjoy a little more space and privacy. And there are also lots of other menu offerings guests can try regardless of where they’re sitting, including sushi: sashimi, classic rolls, and more than 30 specialty rolls. Each description includes details of what’s both on the inside and outside of the rolls, which is helpful given the sheer quantity of options. While such variety is often used to cover up a lack of quality, that’s not the case at Shinju. The amazing tuna roll lives up to its name when it arrives topped with two types of luscious tuna and a soy mustard sauce that lends acidity. The hotline bling roll balances out spicy jalapeño crunch with sweet-and-salty eel sauce.
The kitchen also serves up ramen, udon, fried rice, and an array of stir-fried noodle dishes, plus bento boxes, which include rice, miso soup, a house salad, tempura, and four pieces of a California roll alongside mains, such as chicken, beef or salmon teriyaki, orange chicken, or tonkatsu.
Yes, it’s a big menu and it can overwhelm at first glance but stick with it. Shinju is worth exploring, one flame-filled meal at a time. shinjuks.com
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FUN AND FABULOUS MUSIC FOR 2022
Jon Kimura Parker
Symphony Pops Concert Revolution: The Music of the Beatles — A Symphonic Experience
Friday, Jan. 7 at 8 p.m. Saturday, Jan. 8 at 7 p.m. Sunday, Jan. 9 at 2 p.m. JASON SEBER, DAVID T. BEALS III ASSOCIATE CONDUCTOR
Enjoy a magical musical journey of The Beatles — including “Ticket to Ride,” “Penny Lane,” “All You Need Is Love,” “Here Comes the Sun” and “Hey Jude.” Tickets from $40.
All music under license from Sony/ATV Music Publishing LLC and Harrisongs LTD. All photos under license from The Beatles Book Photo Library. The show is not endorsed by or connected to Apple Corps or The Beatles.
Symphony Classical Concert Shostakovich’s Fifth, Plus Gershwin’s Piano Concerto
Friday & Saturday, Jan. 14-15 at 8 p.m. Sunday, Jan. 16 at 2 p.m. JOSHUA WEILERSTEIN, GUEST CONDUCTOR JON KIMURA PARKER, PIANO William Grant Still Poem for Orchestra Gershwin Piano Concerto in F Shostakovich Symphony No. 5
Enjoy this decadent program that will energize and enlighten you. Tickets from $25.
Film + Live Orchestra Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix™ in Concert
Thursday, Friday & Saturday, Jan. 20-22 at 7 p.m. Sunday, Jan.23 at 2 p.m. JASON SEBER, DAVID T. BEALS III ASSOCIATE CONDUCTOR
Relive the magic with Harry Potter and the Order of the Phoenix™ displayed on a giant screen in high-definition and accompanied by your KC Symphony. Tickets from $25.
WIZARDING WORLD and all related trademarks, characters, names, and indicia are © & ™ Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Publishing Rights © JKR. (s21) PRESENTED BY
Symphony Classical Concert Strauss’ Death and Transfiguration, Prokofiev’s Second Violin Concerto
Friday & Saturday, Jan. 28-29 at 8 p.m. Sunday, Jan. 30 at 2 p.m. MICHAEL STERN, CONDUCTOR VADIM GLUZMAN, VIOLIN Richard Strauss Tod und
Verklärung (Death and Transformation) Joel Thompson To Awaken the
Sleeper (Kansas City Symphony Co-Commission) Prokofiev Violin Concerto No. 2 Beethoven Leonore Overture No. 3
Tickets from $25.
