10 Islands,13 Days: Adventure Aboard a Freighter in French Polynesia

by Susan Cornell / Photos by Susan & Bailey Cornell

If there’s an iconic trip in the South Pacific, it’s the Aranui. For three decades this ship has been the umbilical cord between the Marquesas and Tahiti and a favorite with adventuresome tourists. The 13-day voyage departing from Papeete takes her to two atolls in the Tuamotus, six islands in the Marquesas, as well as Bora Bora.

No one would call the Aranui 5 stunning. This hybrid of part passenger and part freighter is the main supply line to paradise. The front half looks like other cargo ships, with cranes and holds for all types of goods. The back, though, is like a cruise ship with cabins, decks, and a pool.

This is not the kind of trip that would appeal to “fly and flop” vacationers nor the lion’s share of those who hop on a ship for their holiday. No midnight buffets, no stage shows, no casino. But if you’ve got some Walter Mitty in you and dream of jumping aboard a freighter to see the world, this option might make your fantasies come true.

The Aranui 5, described as a “freighter to paradise,” carries a couple of hundred passengers who think it’s cool watching the ship offload cars, oil, generators, boat motors, pallets of toilet paper, and other staples from the outside world, as well as onloading coconuts, bananas, citrus, and fish.

If the Marquesas sound familiar, it’s probably because it was showcased on the TV show, Survivor. Most of us hadn’t even heard of these

islands before, but Herman Melville wrote about it, Paul Gauguin painted it, and Jacques Brel sang of it. Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia, is not exactly paradise, but you have to start somewhere with an airport. Outside the city are fabulous resorts, which make for perfect pre- and/or post-trip stays since flights probably won’t align well with a cruise departure or arrival.

Our first stop in paradise landed us at Fakarava, an atoll in the archipelago of Tuomotu. Fakarava is a popular destination for several reasons. UNESCO protects this atoll for its particularly rare flora and fauna. We discovered the small village of Rotoava, a church built of coral and local arts and crafts.

While some of the guests rented bicycles and ventured to an old lighthouse, we enjoyed the day swimming and snorkeling.

The following day, a sea day, was spent attending a workshop on how to make Tahitian raw fish with coconut milk, followed by weaving palm leaves, Tahitian dance class, and a lecture on the Marquesas.

Our next stop took us to the island of Nuka Hiva in the Marquesas, where the village stretches along a beach of an amphitheater, created by eruptions of three volcanoes. Our adventure included a tour of the Cathedral Notre Dame, famed for its wood sculptures and stonework, a 4x4 tour to the northern coast, and a visit to the archaeological site, Tohua Kamuihei. A traditional “Umu,” a Marquesan specialty where food is cooked in an underground oven, was served for lunch. The only negative in paradise we found was in Nuku Hiva, and it was a double negative; the “no-nos,” or small sand flies -- nothing a little DEET can’t remedy.

The following morning, we landed in Ua Poa, often called “The Cathedral Island”. We were among the energetic early risers who hiked up the hill to the Cross for breathtaking views of the village and valleys. The nearby artisans’ center offered works featuring the unique “flower stone,” pebbles decorated naturally with flower shaped designs. Back on board, we attended a lecture on “Colonization, Epidemics, and Depopulation.”

Each island is completely unique, and what Hiva Oa, on day six, is primarily known for are the marks post-Impressionist artist, Paul Gauguin and Belgian singer-songwriter, Jacques Brel have left to such an extent that a replica of the House of Pleasure, where Gauguin painted and celebrated the life he felt was escaping him, was built. Hiva Oa is not touristy; rather,

the place is of homage and reflection. The day started with an early hike to the cemetery where both Gauguin and Brel are buried, followed by an exploration of the Gauguin and Brel museums.

On Fatu Hiva is the most famous trek of the Aranui adventure: 10 miles, the first half of which are uphill (completely and straight up hill). I’ve hiked 20 miles of Blue-Blazed and Appalachian Trails in Connecticut in one day more than once and can attest that hiking 10 miles in French Polynesia is harder than 20 miles in Connecticut for three reasons: the combination of steeper, hotter, and more humid. But this was also one of the best hikes of a lifetime. Why? Because what goes up, must come down, and the down half offered spectacular views of valleys and towering cliffs, waterfalls, and the Bay of Virgins, one of the world’s most beautiful bays.

and herb bundle used to perfume the women’s hair.Fatu Hiva, the most lush and remote in the archipelago is also the center of Marquesan crafts. Women demonstrated making taa by bark on a log to be dried and painted with ancient traditional designs. Another demostration showed making humuhei, a flower

The next day took us back to Hiva Oa, but to a different bay. A morning drive by 4x4 led to Puamau to visit the most important local archaeological site for tikis. The guides showed us the ruins and shared stories of the statues and ancient civilization. Thoughts of chieftains and priests, prisoners, and sacrifices, and of course cannibalism were constantly on the mind.

Next stop -- Ua Huka, also known as the island of horses, where they roam freely in the valleys. Here we explored the community botanical garden and foraged starfruit, mangoes, breadfruit, and Noni (a native plant). We had time to visit the fishing village of Hakatu with a handicraft center and petroglyph museum, followed by a visit to Hane village with another handicraft center and sea museum.

The second of two sea days was just busy enough: a Polynesian brunch followed by a workshop on creating shell jewelry, a Q&A with the head of the cargo side of the ship, Polynesian-themed movies, and another Ori Tahiti dance class.

Back in the Tuamoto archipelago, the island of Rangiroa or “huge sky” is definitely on the bucket list for a future trip. While some of the passengers visited a pearl farm to learn about these rare gems and see how they are grown, we swam, snorkeled, and explored the largest atoll in French Polynesia.

We enjoyed a day at the beach on a private motu (a small islet) where the crew prepared a delicious picnic lunch featuring Tahitian specialties. In the afternoon we chose an optional activity, a wooden canoe journey circumnavigating Bora Bora and stopping to snorkel and feed sharks and rays.

All good things come to an end, and we did return to Papeete for the flight home. With an early disembarkation, but a late night flight, the Intercontinental Resort Tahiti became our home for the final day in paradise.

What Henri Matisse (1869-1954) said of his journey in the Tuamotus years ago is as true today as it was then: “I find everything magnificent: the landscapes, the trees, the flowers, and the people. It is impossible for me to describe everything that I’ve felt since I arrived here.”

Our last new adventure took us to Bora Bora, which showcases a lagoon in myriad shades of blues and greens, as well as Mt. Otemanu.