Food Thoughts from Italy

Written and Photos by Bob Zemmel, Owner of Alforno Trattoria

As we head into the summer fishing season, there are huge amounts of fresh cod and other white-fleshed fish in the market. In this case, we are using fresh Icelandic codfish loin, which cooks particularly well because it is consistently about one-inch thick throughout.

Unfortunately, New England’s cod stocks have been so overfished that what is available are referred to as “market cod.” These very small cod yield 16- to 24-ounce fillets that are too thin, making them unsuitable for this style of cooking.

The Icelandic cod are still line-caught as very large fish, which yield substantial loins that work for this technique.

This recipe also can be done with any white fish such as haddock, swordfish, local blackfish and halibut as long as the fillets are cut roughly an inch thick.

Cod served over white beans make for a terrific combination. The pairing works especially well when the beans are cooked in white chicken stock. What seems like an odd coupling of poultry and fish actually produces a great dish.

Beans get a bad rap for creating digestive problems and being a general pain in the neck to deal with. However, the negatives are offset by the beans being high in protein, typically 8 grams in a cup of cooked beans, are high in fiber and inexpensive.

White beans can be bought either canned, often referred to as cannellini beans, or dried, commonly called Great Northern white beans. The dried beans take 5 minutes of extra work the night before cooking but yield a much more delicious result.

FOR THE FISH TOPPING: Mix together bread crumbs, horseradish and Asiago cheese and add enough olive oil to bind. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper.

FOR THE FISH: Salt and pepper the fish fillet and lightly dredge in flour. Shake off excess flour. In a nonstick ovenproof skillet, heat a tablespoon of oil over medium heat and brown the fillets for 3 minutes on the one side and 1 minute on the other side.

Put the bread crumb mixture on top of the fillets, and slide the pan into a 400-degree oven for 3 to 4 minutes or until the internal temperature of the fish is 160 degrees.

FINAL ASSEMBLY: Reheat the beans during the last 5 minutes of the fish cooking time. When the beans are hot, spoon them onto a serving plate. Carefully place the fillets on top of the beans. Toss the arugula with the vinaigrette and place on top of the fish.

Ingredients (To serve four as an entrée):

• 1.5 to 2 pounds of cod loin or any 1-inch thick white fish fillet

• Flour for dredging fish

• 2 cups panko bread crumbs

• 1 tablespoon freshly grated horseradish (or to taste)

• 4 tablespoons grated Asiago cheese

• 1 to 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil to moisten

• Salt and pepper to taste

• ¼ of a large carrot, minced

• ¼ of a Vidalia onion, minced

• 2 thick slices good-quality bacon, cut into ¼-inch dice

• 2 cups dry white beans

• 6 cups chicken stock, either homemade or unsalted

• prepared stock such as Kitchen Basics brand

• 1 good handful fresh arugula

• 2 tablespoons of your favorite vinaigrette

PROCEDURE: The night before, put 2 cups of beans in a 4-quart or larger saucepan and add enough cool water to cover the beans by 2 inches. The next day, drain the beans in a colander and rinse thoroughly with cool water. This will de-gas the beans. Put the carrot, onion and bacon in the same saucepan and simmer over low heat until the bacon has rendered, and the onion and carrot have softened. Add the rinsed beans and 6 cups chicken stock. Cover and cook over low heat for 60 to 90 minutes, stirring every few minutes. Test for doneness every 5 minutes starting at 60 minutes. When approaching doneness, remove pan from heat and set aside. Beans will finish cooking in the hot liquid.

Outdoor Grill Preparation (Indirect Cooking Method): Light one side of a gas grill or prepare charcoal on one side of a charcoal grill. When grill is hot, put a non-stick pan on the opposite side of the heat. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and the fish fillets. Brown both sides of the fish, 4 minutes on one side and 2 minutes on the other side. Top with bread crumb mixture and cook for 5 to 8 minutes or until fish is done and the topping is golden brown. Plate the fish over the hot beans and garnish with the arugula salad.

Enjoy!

Leftover Cooked Beans: As usual, we can turn extra cooked beans into characteristic Tuscan crostini by toasting a few slices of crusty bread and topping them with the beans and a drizzle of good extra virgin olive oil.

Alforno Trattoria • Bar • Pizza 1654 Boston Post Road, Old Saybrook, CT 860-399-4166 | www.Alforno.net