DEGREES OF Greatness

Why did you become a chef?

My heritage is Croatian and I grew up in a household where food was really important. I thought it was quite normal to eat things like crayfish on a charcoal grill, pig on a spit until I started to have sleepovers at friend’s places.

My father is an amazing home cook with and my mother ran a catering company in my hometown of Esperance, WA. From the age of 8 I worked in the kitchen peeling potatoes, washing dishes and when I was a teenager, I realised that I loved it and started a traineeship.

Tell us about your journey to get here?

At 18, I moved to Melbourne and loved it until the lockdowns sucked all the soul and beauty out of what made it great. We moved to the Sunshine Coast and I heard that Harry Lilai was about to open a modern European Bistro here. I knew of him from Melbourne and lots of chefs spoke very highly of him so I came in for a chat and was appointed the Sous Chef.

When Market Bistro opened, there was nothing here, it was in the middle of a construction zone. I thought they were crazy. My first shift was a Tuesday and I expected it to be slow but we were packed and it hasn’t stopped. About 12 months ago, I was promoted to Head Chef with Harry as Executive Chef. It’s a beautiful working relationship.

Any career-defining moments?

Working for Dan Hunter (Brae) at the Royal Mail Hotel made me the chef I am today in terms of methodology, systems, organisation, cleanliness, technique, the thought processes behind not just what it takes to cook good food but what it takes to cook good food consistently. I have a lot to thank him for. The other one was my first employer in Melbourne, Joe Vargetto who was co-owner and Head Chef at Oyster Little Bourke. I was an apprentice chef and he was the guy who taught me the value of ‘yes chef, no chef, three bags full’. The importance of dedication and obedience gave me a solid foundation to strive in the industry. This was also where I first worked with Luke Stringer (who runs front of house at Market Bistro and is also co-owner of Bocca), which is wild to think about.

What do you love about being a chef?

Over the years that has evolved but it’s the ability to create; to be forever changing; and to have an outlet where I am completely happy and at peace with my own creation.

I’m a ‘feeder’ so the enjoyment and pleasure I get from feeding people and seeing people eat my food and the look of happiness or wonder and amazement or contentedness – that keeps me going.

What do you love about local produce?

Being close to the source makes a world of difference - freshness and quality is utmost and foremost.

Dairies, like Maleny Dairies, are amazing; the cheeses are absolutely gorgeous; and I love the smaller bespoke producers like Dan Tibbett from Mountaintop Mushrooms. His love, care and zest for his own product is infectious. To have quality produce so close to the kitchen is phenomenal.

I’ve worked all over the world and have never seen tuna as good as what we get from Walker Seafoods. It’s so good it makes me want to cry.

What is your approach to food?

There is a lot of behind-the-scenes methodology that isn’t prevalent on the plate so the food seems simple in its construct but it’s bold in flavour. When it gets to the customer, the end result looks simple; you don’t have to think about what you’re eating. You just eat it and it tastes amazing. We’ve put all the effort in to make it that way.

Who would you love to cook for?

James Gandolfini – he was a big influence when I was growing up watching The Sopranos. He insisted the food on the show had to be real and taste great. I’d love to sit down and share a piece of lasagne with him.

Who is your culinary inspiration?

My father, first and foremost. He was a farmer for most of his life, a humble country man but his approach to food was for nourishment but always with so much love and care and passion.

There have been a few moments in my life where I have been totally shaken and broken apart by food. One of those moments was in a three-hatted fine dining restaurant; the other was sitting around my Nonna’s kitchen table eating a Croatian Fish Soup that my father had just made. I had been cheffing for a few years and as I watched him prepare that soup for two hours I was thinking ‘what are you doing?!’ The onions weren’t cut properly, the parsley was put in at the wrong time, raw white wine was added - I thought it was going to be a disaster. But that first mouthful was perfect on every level – the sweetness, sourness, saltiness, texture, taste – 10/10.

That was a life altering moment. As a chef, you’re always in search of that perfection. When you find it, it makes you question everything. There are things that he knows that I don’t. Do you cook at home?

At home I seek comfort and nourishment and things that make me feel good; homely and hearty meals I grew up with. Croation comfort food like goulash, spaghetti, pasta, cabbage rolls.

What is your favourite dish to cook?

That’s like asking a painter what his favourite colour is! You go through phases and have things you are passionate about at different times. Right now, it’s the Madeira Glazed Quail, Roast Carrots, Sherry Jus on the winter menu. I’ve never seen a quail as beautiful and spectacular as the ones we get from Brisbane Valley Quails. When you have a product that is so perfect you don’t have to do much for it to shine and this dish is simple and stunning. It gives me a spark of happiness to cook it.

Why do you love the Sunshine Coast?

Everything. I wish I moved here five years ago. With so much beautiful weather it’s no wonder the people are so laid back and super friendly.

Any advice for young chefs?

Question everything, say nothing.

Use your ears. Listen. Trust in your mentor, your teacher - they know what they are talking about and they are trying to set you on the right track.

Experience always wins. Without it, you are nothing.

What is your favourite kitchen tool?

A digital thermometer. It’s a big thing for me. Cooking is the application of heat and it is the control and manipulation of that heat which can define if something is good or bad. Old school chefs could tell by touch but a thermometer never lies - within a 0.1 of a degree.

What is your favourite ingredient?

Vinegar is the quintessential lifeblood of everything I do, particularly white balsamic vinegar. It can be both sweet and savoury and add a point of difference, depth and openness of flavour to any dish. It is everything.

For the full interview with Dobbers visit www.innoosamagazine.com.au

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