n.101 MAY
2020
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editorialis
Pizza after Covid-19
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fter Covid 19 nothing will be like before. This is the first reflection that all restaurant workers in Italy and abroad make, being this disease so dangerous that soon it has become a pandemic affecting the whole world. The fear of contagion, social distance, the continuous sanitization of environments will certainly lead to a change in the layout of the premises and a different approach to consumption. We are asking: will pizza also live a moment of changes? In this case, we feel to say that the answer is no, it won’t. In its primary essence, pizza will maintain its soul of simple food, which reaches everyone. There is no doubt about this. This closing period must only be used to review the organization of the premises and the service, implementing new security procedures. It must be able to
let the customers live the experience they expect. We are on the eve of a new challenge that must be faced with enthusiasm and trust. In this regard, we have collected the reflections of experts and authoritative exponents of the pizza world. We are going to summarize those thoughts in the following concepts: “pizza is a product satisfying palate and mind, it touches people in its senses, it gives emotions of joy, it involves the desire of sharing and tasting together. When this emergency passes and people start socializing again without great fears, they will have a great desire to go back to eat in a pizzeria, pizza will always have a privileged place as far as it is able to offer in terms of economy, quality, sharing and socialization�. Giuseppe ROTOLO
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the Opinion
the Opinion
The post COVID
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Fear and trust: the feelings of companies and prairies managers
he coronavirus has come down like a tsunami. In addition to the serious health emergency has affected the whole world and that will also affect it for a long time, there is a wide crisis in the socio-economic context, where a meaningful part is undoubtedly composed by the world of catering. In these pages we collected a series of reflections, points of view and wishes by the most authoritative exponents of this world, that is firms and managers of production companies. Here is a summaru of their thoughts, considerations that will help to face the near future, with confidence, even if it will certainly be complex and full of difficulties.
Heartfelt, confident and looking to the future, the AGUGIARO&FIGNA Post where we read: “We are part of a confused, wounded, affected community. The same community includes everyone without distinction of social position, race, religion, role, sex, job. Since the 15th century we have been producing flour, because it is an essential good for everyone. We have suspended the initiatives projected to promote us, but we do not believe it is sufficient to wait for the events. We want to devote our utmost commitment to production and research, to availability and listening to people needs, in the ability to convey energy and dreams, professionalism and humanity. In this
we guarantee our utmost commitment. Habits, the way of living sociality and everyday life, the ability to move, the fundamental needs will evolve and new eyes will be needed. We will all be called to a great, collective effort of listening and thinking, of intuition, fantasy and creativity. We are ready and we will be ready with our whole team, because we think that, together with all those who believe in a new vision of the world without distinctions, we can and must overcome this challenge. “ Molino Caputo - Antimo Caputo’s reflections taken from an interview published on www.50topitaly.it “Flour and wi-fi connection are the necessary goods in these days when we are invited and forced to stay at home”. Continuing to produce flour becomes the front line of the battle to supply consumers. As we always did, with caution and rigor, our employees are always protected by overalls, masks, gloves; they are at work in hygienic and hypercontrolled environments. We guarantee our flour produced in maximum safety. “Consumer habits are changing rapidly and consequently also the orders we receive - explains the ma5
the Opinion
naging director of the Mulino di Napoli - restaurants and pizzerias are closing, and therefore the need for 10 kg bags decreases while requests for 1-packs kilo increases and active dry yeast is positioning itself very well, a product that we have recently launched and which is indispensable for making the doughs of recipes that multiply on social networks. On the macro scenario of the agri-food chain, the criticality lies in the fact that the other European countries want to block Italian goods at the borders, to avoid this, “a massive intervention in the communication is needed and a support in defense of Italian food, which is the safest in the world. On the structural front, especially small and medium-sized companies that need liquidity, they must be helped by immediately suspending all taxes; stop making everyone go on vacation now so we can be ready to produce when the emergency is over. Everything will have changed and we must be ready, because I am sure that August will be our New Year. “
This is what Italmil declares: “The situation of the moment is certainly not easy but we are already seeing changes in the approach to pizza consumption with the strong demand for “delivery”. Going to eat to the restaurants or attending the premises will be linked to the perception of “safety” that customers will have. Being pizza the favorite food for Italians, everything will slowly return to be to the former regimes. Styles and consumption will certainly change, we will have to be chameleon-like to
intercept tomorrow’s needs and demands. “Delivery” will certainly be implemented. Ennio Parentini, General Manager of Italmill Spa says: “All this will end, our customers’ habits and traditions will probably change and consequently our activities, important challenges await us. One thing we mustn’t lose: our enthusiasm. Thanks to our professionalism we will surely know how to intercept and satisfy the needs and requirements of our customers. We will be available to catch this new challenge in order to return to normality, having working days full of satisfaction. All together it will be possible. “ Stefano Ferrara of Ferrara Forni’s reflections are very interesting: “We hope for a speedy recovery, but in looking at the reality of how the health and economic crisis developed, the recovery will be slow and problematic and the damage for the pizza world will be very high. Someone will manage to stand up and even if run down, continuing on the path, but I think many will be forced to give up. Unfortunately, not everyone can count on a sufficient availability of money, it is true that particular credit lines will probably be granted to give the necessary liquidity to overcome the moment but it is also true that, with all the bureaucratic delays, not everyone can be able to survive a few months without cashing in and with expenses that still accumulate. There are many small size activities like, pizzerias, restaurants or family-run cafés which haven’t a great amount of liquid money, so how will they rely on to overcome this period and at the same time to survive? It is difficult to get a clear picture of the future, to think
the Opinion
what could be the winning choices to be able to operate in post-emergency. This stop should be used to reflect and find new ideas because the only sure thing is that nothing will be the same as before. The virus is not defeated so there will still be distance limits to be respected, safety devices to wear. The premises will be reduced by at least a 50% the seating capacity to give enough space to customers who will perhaps find it more convenient to book in order to avoid a long wait to enter. The number of tables will be restricted and so will be the time spent to eat out a meal. This is not in our habits, not in our mentality: we go to dinner or lunch not only to eat but to spend time, to chat, to be with friends or family. I imagine waiters and kitchen workers paying attention to the social distances, to wear gloves and masks, it is not so nice to imagine being served at the table by a gagged waiter who is also unable to explain the dish he is serving you. In few words, it will not be so simple, catering will be re-organized, paying more attention to the health and safety of the customer and staff. Perhaps home deliveries will increase and in the early days they could guarantee those customers who are still a little wary. After the emergency, they will still see suspicious people who are not very inclined to go out to eat. In short, it is not easy to predict or imagine, we can only live moment by moment, finding suitable solutions and the right ideas to better face this change. Best of luck to all the restaurant owners who will be able to ride this change with courage and creativity, they certainly will succeed “.
“Esmach is present”, says Paolo Zunino, CEO of Esmach SpA “In Esmach we have first of all thought to the safety, to continue supporting our partners at the same levels as ever. We will be there, safely, professionally and healthily. Esmach has always been our home. It is the home of every baker, every pizza chef traditional or modern. We have learned here, we have evolved, we have grown and we have created relationships with exceptional people who have made us better. Esmach has always welcomed us at the beginning of our day and has always accompanied us in our profession. Today, however, is a challenging time because a difficult enemy is slowing us down, trying to block our work and putting us and our families in serious difficulty. We in Esmach have decided not to accept defeat and to continue working in maximum safety to be close to those who work with bread, pizza and the people who need it every day. We have decided to put ourselves in total safety and to continue to support our partners because today those who make bread are at the base of our society. Bread is what keeps the nutrition of many families and many people together and so it will be in the next months. That’s why we want to be there. For this reason, we want every day that you can count on our support and for this we here we are”. In addition to the managers of the production industries, we offer you the points of view of two managers of premises and a manager of formation. The first is Michael Cortelletti, who works with six clubs 7
the Opinion
in the center of Verona. His experience is great and also a special optimism that is absolutely necessary during these days. Here is a bit cut of his interview. “What will happen to restaurants after COVID? It will rise again, like an Arab Phoenician who emerges from its own ashes. Stronger, more beautiful, more vital than before. On this I have no doubt. The real question is when? When will we finally be able to put an end to this epidemic? When are we going to get a cure? Because a cure would be enough to take away the fear of this disease. Then at that moment, life returns to flourish, catering returns to be at the center of our life, I am sure. Because if there is one thing that these weeks of forced solitude are teaching us, it is the importance of being able to be together, meet, eat together, live in the square, live with our friends and for all this, catering is essential. I don’t believe in a client who is a prisoner of Coronavirus psychosis. On the contrary, it will encourage us to be even more vital, to live and celebrate. It is clear, however, that one of our fundamental characteristics is that of learning, and we will also learn from this experience: we will change our habits and change them and then we can continue to be what we are, human beings. Post-covid catering will focus on hospitality, quality and transparency and also the creativity of each of us will be unleashed, the entrepreneurial energy of Italian managers“. Also interesting is the opinion of Carlo Alberto Nardelli, manager of two clubs in Trentino, Birreria Pedavena in Trento and La Stube del Galletto in Cadine. This is a short cut of his interview: “I 8
will probably be wrong, indeed certainly, but I don’t think that forty-fifty days of closure, will completely upset our habits. For better or for worse we have always shown that we are a people who forget bad things quickly. The three keywords are ... mental and organizational elasticity, you must be aware to accept that the market may have changed or is about to change. Mental solidity: turbulence and even strong turbulence await us. But don’t panic. We must always remember that we are people at the service of other people. We just have to wait and understand how they want to be served. “ Marco Ranocchia Founder and owner of Planet One Service “Undoubtedly the crisis, like all crises, will make a selection: selection of the most virtuous, of those who have been able to save, people who have acted with a managerial level at the level of conducting their activities and who has been able to spare somewhere a little of reserves to be able to make them available in these moments that are certainly very difficult for any type of operator in our sector. Undoubtedly, selection will be an obvious thing like all major crises. From my point of view, I believe that the winning format will be to give a greater safety for the customers, on what they eat and what they drink. So a greater knowledge and food consciousness and this I believe will be crucial. The green and sustainable will advance enormously. The post Covid Era imposes us to be a very good manager. However, a renaissance will have to base on wide and new foundations and in this the new managers, the new owners will have to deal with. They will have to be better than before, more cohesive than before and create a system ”.
Exhibitions
Covid-19: fairs in absolute safety This is the #SAFEBUSINESS project by Italian Exhibition Group, which includes also the serological screening of all group employees.
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owadays organizing fairs or participating in events in Italy is and will be completely safe, in full respect of health rules and protocols, protecting the health of companies and visitors. The project launched by IEG Italian Exhibition Group is the #SAFEBUSINESS by IEG. The group is a fair and congress organizer based in Rimini and operating in Vicenza, Milan, Brescia, Rome, Arezzo and Naples, as well as in China, the United States and Dubai with some cooperating companies. Listed on the stock exchange, IEG designed this plan thanks to a work shop with its exhibition and catering companies, technicians and international operators. The project (at this link the complete document and the downloadable, printable, royalty-free infographics https://www.iegexpo.it/it/safebusiness) focuses on each phase of the fair or congress experience. “We have worked on this plan - says Corrado Peraboni CEO of IEG, - with the idea of giving a complete
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and reliable answer to the customers and the public, who are asking us to organize fairs and meeting to start again their activity, today more than in the past. We did it in line with the health rules against covid-19 and the documents drawn up by AEFI, FEDERCONGRESSI, UFI and EMECA, which I thank for the constant presence on the topic “. Over fifty indications are traced in the project following rigorously the protocol of Health Organization. Among these indications: sanitized shuttles between airport, hotel and the fair, equipped with disinfectants, with the obligation of masks on board and the programmed number of travelers; partnerships with bike sharing companies and scooters, in agreement with hotels and local areas; online ticket offices and online payments, admissions scheduled according to the capacity of the pavilions and fair opening hours prolonged until the evening, mask distribution desk (it is a duty to wear masks and there are particular care and measures for the disabled,
Exhibitions
such as transparent masks for IEG staff to facilitate the relationship with the deaf), multiple entrances, safety corridors and distance signs, dematerialized access tickets, public controls with thermo-scanner and sanitization path, cloakroom with automatic cycle and disposable covers. The entire production chain designed and managed in safety, the flows of visitors monitored with centralized digital detection and the on-site supervision of remote-controlled stewards. Continuous cycle sanitation for all areas, rooms and services, sanitation for the filters of the air conditioning gears. Digitized information material, multimedia production and live streaming to support events, conferences, media. For catering: temperature control of workers, gloves, masks, disposable gowns, payments with skip-theline app, lunch box and single-portion coffee box, delivery to the stands with a coded process. A strict crisis management protocol has been established, which defines behavior on the spot in the presence of suspicious cases. IEG employees and event staff will be trained to protect theirselves and to guarantee the safe performance of tasks, the use of PPE, compliance with strict procedures for personal hygiene and disinfection, and social distance. On the topic of employees, the president of the Italian Exhibition Group, Lorenzo Cagnoni announces that the company has decided on mass serological screening, on a voluntary basis: “We adopt it to protect our collaborators, the employees of the subsidiaries and all our relational system. Operating on different regions, we will do it according to the official protocols and a suitable application has already been submitted to the Emilia Romagna Region�. 11
Event
confirms the Milan event, but with delivery and gourmet dishes from the Neapolitan masters
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n unusual edition. A new name. The 2020 edition of the Pizza Village had to adapt to the coronavirus emergency. Therefore, it proposes a new formula of live and digital participation. It will be called PizzaVillage @ Home and will have a live schedule format, with all the protagonists broadcasting from their pizzerias live on social networks and streaming platforms. They will propose moments of work, interviews, pizza classes and ideas sharing. The event will start from Milan, “the city closest to the concept of delivery in terms of culture and habits�, as the organization announces in the
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press release. Each pizzeria will be placed in a strategic area, the Hub will be set up with 12 ovens that will bake off pizzas made by the best Neapolitan pizza makers. It will also be the delivery service central point. The Pizza Village event will take place from 12th to 14th June, with a schedule of activities that will go from 18:00 to 23:00. However, the third edition of the Pizza Village in New York has delayed to next year due to the Coronavirus pandemic. The Naples edition also delayed for some weeks. Each pizzeria will prepare Margherita Pizzas and
each of them will propose a special pizza, with special ingredients, gourmet. They will be delivered in very high-quality customized containers and signed by the pizza maker. For the first time it will be possible to get pizzas at home pizzas made by different pizza makers. All this will be possible thanks to a partnership between the organization and the main companies specialized in food delivery. For the same occasion, the “Pizza box d’Autore� service will also be inaugurated: new recipes created by Neapolitan Pizza Masters, delivered in premium boxes containing a complete menu, but at the price of a pizza. The value of solidarity will not be overlooked: 1000 pizzas will be prepared every day and will be delivered to hospitals and city canteens. Milano Pizza Village also launches in 2020 the Competition for the best non-professional pizza chef. And the whole event will be followed by RTL 102.5 radio broadcasting with interviews and direct contact with the digital public via Twitter. Ten years after its birth, the Pizza Village has become one of the most relevant events in Italy. The last two editions were also organized in New York and in 2020 he will also be in Milan, thus tripling
the annual appointments. Its first edition in Naples it was visited from 60 thousand people now has reached one million in the last edition. In the Big Apple, around 30 thousand people joined the event. On May 18th, 2016 the Napoli Pizza Village and the Masters Pizza Makers entered the history of the Guinness World Record, with the biggest pizza of the world, it was 1,876 meters long and offered along the Caracciolo promenade. While in 2018 the event received an international recognition in Las Vegas, as part of The FestX Awards, as the Best Food Festival in the world, elected by a jury made up of 17 experts in communication, marketing, television, as well as influencers and writers. In 2014 the Pizza Village started and promoted what has become the most popular sings collection in the history of Unesco in 3 years: #PizzaUnesco. Thanks to over 2 million supporters coming from over 100 countries, who signed the petition, the campaign reached the aim it was born for: after 3 years, the art of Neapolitan Pizzaiolo has been recognized by UNESCO as intangible cultural World heritage.
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advertorial
The timeless charm of the
wood oven
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s in a sort of magic circle, pizza contains the four fundamental elements of life: the SOIL that gives the grain for the dough for which WATER is inevitably needed, then the AIR that causes that special reaction called leavening, and finally FIRE, a sacred element that makes it food. Continuing with the myth of the FOUNDING elements, we would like to imagine that FIRE is, and remains, for pizza, the most fascinating element, and it is probably for this “ancestral� reason that in a pizza restaurant a wood oven should be showed with its flame shining brightly because it attracts certainly the attention of the customers. It gives the sense of warmth and goodness, it dispenses every 90 seconds that pizza which comes out fragrant, delicious for the senses. The wood-bur-
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ning oven has always been a must for all those who love original pizza, with that particular aroma that no other type of cooking can guarantee thanks to the aromatic components developed by the various types of wood used in the cooking. A classic wood-burning oven is built entirely of refractory material; the cooking chamber has a stone base surmounted by a vault always in refractory material to which a smoke outlet is connected. The fire is always positioned in the center in the first step and then moved to one side throughout the cooking of the pizzas. The refractory stones on the base, as well as the vault, are heated by the fire maintaining a constant temperature thanks to the thermal accumulation guaranteed by the materials. Pizzas cook in direct contact with
fixed oven
the stone, receiving heat from it and also cooking by radiation and convention thanks to the heat of the flames present in the cooking chamber. For this reason, it is essential to pay particular attention to the wood used for cooking, beech and oak are fine, offer excellent result, but above all it is important to check that the supplies are certified to ensure that there are no toxic substances in the wood such as arsenic, cadmium, cobalt, etc. Building wood-fired pizza ovens requires ancient knowledge, technique, great professionalism and a lot of passion for this work, a precise artisan work that few people in Italy are able to realize with that perfection that is defined in a workmanlike manner, between these are certainly the renowned and historic Neapolitan company, Stefano Ferrara. Neapolitan excellence Stefano Ferrara belongs to the third generation of craftsmen of oven producers. He began his work as a teenager, working together with his father known and appreciated craftsman in the sector, named Mastu Natale, from whom he was able to learn techniques and secrets handed down from previous generations for the construction of authentic Neapolitan pizza ovens. The ovens by Ferrara are still handcrafted brick by brick, without the use of any prefabricated building, as per ancient tradition. During the years, the many skills of the Neapolitan company have reached a remarkable degree of spe-
mobile oven
Gennarino
cialization, today the ovens by Ferrara Forni guarantee excellent performance in terms of cooking and heat retention, moreover they are unique pieces of Neapolitan craftsmanship appreciated and requested all over the world. There are three types of available ovens, unique pieces whose coatings can be customized for each pizzeria. First of all, obviously the traditional Neapolitan oven with woodshed in the bottom, which is located in the place where it will be able to bake off pizzas for many years. All the materials used for the construction are sent from Naples to the destination where the expert craftsmen come to create the “masterpiece�. Then there is the mobile oven, it is placed on a metal support, which is delivered ready for the use in your location. It can be easily moved with a manual pallet truck and this favors any change of place if necessary. For smaller rooms Ferrara has created Gennarino, a high performing product with small dimensions and low weight. Available in only two sizes of the base, with diameter 80 cm and diameter 100 cm. Baking chamber in refractory bricks, like all Ferrara ovens, and the support structure and external front part in stainless steel. All Ferrara ovens are supplied complete with customized external decorative coating chosen by the customer from the wide range of models and Palladian marble material. All our products are built with certified materials and guaranteed to CE standards.
www.stefanoferraraforni.it 15
Bakery chef by curated by Nico Carlucci
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Bakery chef
Cereal breadsticks by Nico Carlucci
Ingredienti Kg. 1,2 MOLIDORO flour - 120 gr. various seeds (quinoa, flax, poppy and sesame) - 24 g compressed fresh brewer’s yeast (2% of the weight of the flour) - 20 g honey (1.67% of the weight of the flour) - 0.600 gr White Wine (50% of the weight of the flour) - 36 gr extra virgin olive oil (3% on the weight of the flour) - 30 gr. of fine sea salt
Procedimento Professionalism, passion for the white art and love for his job: Nico Carlucci will care this new section of Pizza & core collection. He is perfect as a professional, in addition he has got a great communicative ability, that’s why Nico Carlucci is an appreciated master, as well as collaborator of important milling companies and teacher of the bakery and white arts course at important Institutes, moreover he has been a member of the Richemont Club Italia for South Italy for more than 10 years. Despite twentyfive years of work, Nico’s philosophy hasn’t changed, he still grows professionally with the consciousness that he still has a lot to learn, in the meanwhile he gives us some precious little suggestions on the secrets of white art through this section of our magazine.
Put the dough in the mixer with the hook inserted in the flour, add the yeast and oxygenate, mix for 1 minute. Insert honey and white wine in small doses and let the machine go for some minutes. This procedure should last about 10 minutes at speed 1 or at moderate speed. Immediately after, add the extra virgin olive oil and let it absorb from the dough, add the salt and start to use speed 2 for 4 minutes or at high speed until the oil is well dissolved from the dough. Finally insert the seeds. Take the dough out of the mixer and roll it out with the help of a dough roller until it is 2 cm thick. Let rest for 30 minutes at room temperature (29.3 ° C with 28% r.h.), cover it with a plastic sheet (the dough should weigh approximately 2.132 kg at 25.8 ° C). Cut the breadsticks with the help of a pastry cutter wheel place them in the pan, let them rise for 30 minutes, by covering with plastic sheets at room temperature. Bake at 235 ° for 20 minutes (start the cooking with steam). The final total weight of our breadsticks should be around 1596 kg. 17