Desire Denim & Casuals Vol.16 No1 by InsideFashion

OM SAI MAA

DENIMS & CASUALS

VOL 16 No. 1

Denim

a publication by

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Contents OM SAI MAA

DENIMS & CASUALS

VOL 16 No. 1

10 Editor Speak 11 Overview - Denims on a high growth curve with new styles and features 14 Trends & Styles - Denim never goes out of fashion as makers play around with new styles 18 Cover Story - Spykar stays ahead with its trendy high fashion 20 BRAND LEADERS 26 Womens Denim - Women’s denim driven by style, comfort and versatility 32 BRAND LEADERS

Denim

a publication by

goes casual ways

34 KIDSWEAR - Kidswear finds it comfort in denim and casuals 38 BRAND LEADERS 42 BRAND LEADERS 44 DENIM FABRIC - Fabric industry facing a mismatch in demand and supply 47 BRAND LEADERS 52 casuals - Men’s casual wear market spins on full throttle 56 BRAND LEADERS 68 Womens Casuals - Women’s casuals not a casual story anymore 70 BRAND LEADERS 72 ATHLEISURE - Athleisure keeps steady growth pace as its popularity grows in India 75 BRAND LEADERS 76 RETAIL - Online retail clicks well in the casual wear segment

DFU PUBLICATIONS Editor-in Chief & Publisher & CEO - Sanjay Chawla

Advisor

Director - Salil Chawla

Customer Relations - Sanchita Banerjee Team Bipasha Bhattacharya

Mangaging Editor - Sujata Dutta Sachdeva VP-Corporate Communications - Shraboni Mukherjee Editorial - Narayan Subramaniam Shubhangi Bidwe Editorial Asst. - Ranjit Kaur Correspondent - Ajay Kumar Goswami Prerna Sharma Sales Team - Sagar Sardar Makrand Deshpandey Reena Prajapati

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- T. K. Sengupta

Production & Admn. - Dinesh Poojary Graphic Designer - Sanjeev D. Sonavane

Mumbai Office: 38/314, Unnat Nagar 4, Off M. G. Road, MHADA Colony, Goregaon (W), Mumbai - 400 062. Ph: 022 2875 5181, 2877 2282, 3001 4700 e-mail: dfuif@yahoo.co.in / dfu@rediffmail.com Dehli Office: Salil Chawla, Business & Mktg: New Delhi - 110017, Mobile: +9193503 18639 e-mail: salildfu@gmail.com, salil@dfupublications.com All reproductions rights reserved. Owned & published by: Sanjay Chawla and printed by him at DFU printing division. Published and Edited by Sanjay Chawla at: 38/314, Unnat Nagar 4, Off M. G. Road, MHADA Colony, Goregaon (W), Mumbai 400 062.

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www.ironyjeans.com mail at info@ironyjeans.com

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EDITOR SPEAK

Business of Denimwear, driven and restricted by casual lifestyle, sportswear trends enim and jeanswear in India has been growing steadily, however, the actual potential and the rate at which it can possibly grow is not fully realised. One reason, in my opinion, why the sector is not realising its true growth potential is: the rapid changes and wide ranging trends prevalent now compared to a decade ago. Traditionally, design and trends in jeanswear never changed as rapidly and as widely like other outwear clothing categories, especially casual apparels. There have been trends mainly within different hues of blues, cuts and style closer to conventional five pocket jeans design in terms of fits swinging between anti-fit, tight-fit, very tight-fit. Similarly, changes in waist trends like low, mid and high waist etc. Comparatively, casual wear one of the most versatile product categories in apparel, knows no boundaries in its range of trends and keeps changing rather rapidly. The swing in trends definitely has an impact on business model of any product. Basic run deep and helps deeper industry penetrations. In general, basics or less changing products are able to gather mass scales whereas designer products face numerous challenges in stabilising its business model. Similar situation is caused by rapid and wide ranging changes in design and trends of denim wear as well, especially in India. Western markets are mature and jeanswear culture is deeply ingrained. Hence, rapid and wide ranging changes are accommodated much easily than in India. India is an evolving market as far as denims and jeanswear is concerned. And in this evolving stage, the rapid changes and challenges that jeanswear is facing in the last decade from athleisure, yoga pants, sportswear and active wear or as an overall part of ‘casual sports lifestyle fashion’, has pushed the product to undergo numerous facelifts and makeovers. The challenge to remain a youth product, means it has to follow youth wherever they go, and whatever they like. These constant changes, on one hand provide a driving and surviving force for the jeanswear category, being influenced by ‘casual sports lifestyle fashion’ while at the same, restricts and mars growth. Currently, casual lifestyle and sportswear trends are driving the market and helping it grow and survive but efforts to outreach with deeper penetration are curtailed. Hence, India is unable to realise its true and strong potential in denims and jeanswear and our per capita consumption remains much lower. The latest issue of Desire Denims & Casuals throws light on changing business dynamics of this sector. Pleasure reading... I remain

Sanjay Chawla

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OVERVIEW

Denims on a high growth curve with new styles and features india’s denim growth story continues as newer players enter this space. with demand forecasted to increase in future, denim makers are keeping up with latest global trends while offering great value propositions to the discerning indian consumer, write shubhangi Bidwe and ajay kumar Goswami ccording to industry experts, the Indian denim market, estimated at Rs 20,205 crore in 2016, is projected to grow at a CAGR of 14.5 per cent and reach Rs 39,651 crore by 2021, and Rs 77,999 crore by 2026. Of this, the men’s denim segment comprises 84 per cent while women’s and kids’ denim segment comprise 10 and 6 per cent respectively. It is thus definitely a segment that garment

• Denim among the highest growth categories in Indian apparel market • Has the largest number of local and global players • Denim sells well across all economic segments • Natural fabrics with sustainability properties gain popularity • High-end finishes, innovative product designs gaining popularity. Colors, structures, patterns becoming cleaner and muted • Omnichannel retail strategy to drive future denim growth

neha shah

assistant General managermarketing, pepe Jeans “our new collection through its cappuccino, forest green, ochre, pops of orange, blue and grey tones offers a feeling of warmth. the menswear range, a mix of urban and countryside clothing, features tactile chunky knits, hoodies, plaid shirts and archive logo t-shirts, duffle coats and bright outdoors-techwear. the folksy womenswear collection offers fringed jackets and bright knits in decorative and graphic patterns, colourful fuzzy jackets, hoodies and overcoats in 70s and 80s style. 34 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS 11

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manufacturers are including in their general apparel portfolio even if they are not a strictly a denim company. Denim sells well across all economic segments as it is affordable, trendy and widely accepted in society as it covers all and reveals nothing.

Manjula Gandhi,

Chief Product Officer, Numero Uno “Our denims are available in myriad shades of indigo, ranging from pale, sun-faded and bleached out blues to brighter mid-tones, vintage and heavily washed, to deep raw clean look. Also, frayed denim with boroinspired repairing is a highlight. Our denims range named ‘Amekazi’ takes inspiration from native American culture, military clothing and vintage denim styles amalgamated with Japanese design to form a distinctive Japanese-American aesthetic.”

Leveraging growth opportunities through expansion plans To leverage this growth potential many denim brands have embarked on expanding their product lines and retail network. Prominent amongst these is the premier denim brand Pepe Jeans. The brand recently launched its autumn/winter 2019 collection that focuses on making its customers feel cozy. The collection through its cappuccino, forest green, ochre, pops of orange, blue and grey tones offers a feeling of warmth. “The menswear collection, a mix of urban and countryside clothing, features tactile chunky knits, hoodies, plaid shirts and archive logo T-shirts, duffle coats and bright outdoors-techwear. The folksy womenswear collection offers fringed jackets and bright knits in decorative and graphic patterns, colourful fuzzy jackets, hoodies and overcoats in 70s and 80s style. Its tech-puffa jackets add a layer of warmth to the entire collection,” notes Neha Shah, Assistant General Manager-Marketing of the brand. Adding to this range of innovations is the Brand Being Human. For its denim range

this season, the brand, on one hand, digs into American heritage to reinterpret it for the modern times. “On other hand, we have launched a fun holiday collection high on 90s youth fashion inspiration, resort shirts and acid washed jeans summing up the look perfectly. With an effortless, casual and laid back style, we have worked on seven themes in this collection, five big ones and two capsule. For the athleisure line, we have ‘Lab Sports’ and ‘Deconstruction’ as themes the first is minimalist and the other is techno grunge. For the denim line the themes include Americana, Poetic Nature and Soda Punk, visually they are very different but denim is central highlight of all these themes. Apart from these five we have Africanation and Art not War as capsule collections,” says Kunal Mehta, VP, Marketing and Business Development, Being Human Clothing.

Innovations in fabrics and yarns Denim mills today are focusing on a range of innovation in their fabrics and high quality yarns to fight their way to the top in this competitive scenario. A traditional cotton yarn player is now increasing its product portfolio to include denim in both top and bottom wear. Manjula Gandhi, Chief Product Officer of Numero Uno notes, “We have innovated with an interesting mix of natural and sustainable fabrics, technology driven sustainable washing: ‘One Glass Water

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Jeans’. Our denim are available in myriad shades of indigo ranging from pale, sunfaded and bleached out blues to brighter mid-tones, vintage and heavily washed, to deep raw clean look. Also, frayed denim with boro-inspired repairing is a highlight. Our denims range named ‘Amekazi’ takes inspiration from native American culture, military clothing and vintage denim styles amalgamated with Japanese design to form a distinctive Japanese-American aesthetic.”

Emerging denim styles The emergence of tattered denim has provided a perfect option for fashion conscious youth. The applications of distressed/ripped/ tattered/patched denim in many new forms come every season and can also be seen in jackets, shorts and skirts along with denim jeans. New denim fabric washes, which are basically shades of the denim fabric are created by the top players who focus on achieving different hues of blue by washing the fabric in certain dyes, bleaches or other agents that affect the denim colour. Dark indigo, faded blue/vintage/aged, stone wash and distressed jeans are new denim fabric washes trending now.

Vijay Kapoor

Managing Director, Derby Jeans Community “Sustainability in fashion will be the biggest drive for future. Hybrid products from Derby’s Denim DNA will be our unique style statement. Our hybrid workwear will feature clean rinse washed jeans that can be worn for work & casual lifestyle. Our range will complement our hybrid jeans and provide a wide variety of product mix for urban and aspiring market segments. Some of the key fabrics used with denim this season include a few regenerated fibers like Tencel, Excel are blended onto natural fibers for a soft hand feel and comfort, stretch fabrics are our brands’ strength that offers unmatchable comfort.”

Sustainability to drive future growth “Sustainability in fashion will be the biggest drive for future,” says Vijay Kapoor, Managing Director, Derby Jeans Community. The brand is listed amongst the top 100 sustainable brands within the country as it does not use synthetic fabrics like polyester that is made from petrochemicals. “Hybrid products from Derby’s Denim DNA will be our unique style statement. Our hybrid workwear will feature clean rinse washed jeans that can be worn for work & casual lifestyle. Our range will complement our hybrid jeans and provide a wide variety of product mix for urban and aspiring market segments. Some of the key fabrics used with denim this season include a few regenerated fibers like Tencel, Excel are blended onto natural fibers for a soft hand feel and comfort, stretch fabrics are our brands’ strength that offers unmatchable comfort,” adds Kapoor.

Increasing competition, pricing pose challenges The Indian denim market is bursting with challenges. The first challenge is stiff competition by both local and international players, the second is pricing of yarns and fabrics going up constantly while MRPs

remain almost static in the basic segment, resulting in a pressure on manufacturers in terms of business, revenue and margins. Most bigger players have a R&D team to visit national as well as international markets and implement their findings in their portfolio. Denim mills today are focusing on a range of innovation in their fabrics and high quality yarns to fight their way to the top. Denim shirting has a good future because the Indian shirting market is largely non denim, leaving enough scope for denim to replace non denim clothing. The future of denim industry will depend on how brands build their omni-channel strategy and its technology through which they can tap additional customers across smaller cities. The mid segment is stronger and bigger as it reaches a wider number of aspirational customers across Tier II and III cities. The rising aspirations of these price and quality conscious consumers looking for more variety and innovation in the denim segment have led to a growth spurt. And in the premium luxury segment, a variety of designs, mixed blends and sophisticated finishes is the need of the hour. Not only in the western section as bottom and top wear, denim has penetrated into almost every category in women’s wear in some form, including blouses and kurtis in ethnic wear. Denim never goes out of style but how brands handle innovation to keep the segment looking and feeling is the magic wand to market success.

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TRENDS & STYLES

Denim never goes out of fashion as makers play around with new styles denim a wardrobe staple has seen numerous innovations in terms of fabric, colours washes, styles over the years. with its popularity only increasing across age groups and geographies, denim makers are incorporating new style trends to woo customers, finds out ajanta Ganguly ust like the ubiquitous little black dress for formal wear, the basic denim blue jeans for casual wear never goes out of style. The youth driven denim market in India promises both domestic as well as global manufacturers lucrative returns along with volume growth in the overall apparel market for both men and women. Indian market trends over the last couple of years has predicted increased penetration of denim across semi-urban and rural centres, driving volume growth across

• Denim among the highest growth categories in Indian apparel market • Has the largest number of local and global players • Denim sells well across all economic segments • Lightweight fabrics with breathability and moisture absorption important functional aspect of denim • High-end finishes, innovative product designs gaining popularity • Colors, structures, patterns becoming cleaner more muted • Stretch denim is very popular

neha shah

assistant General managermarketing, pepe Jeans “pepe Jeans london looks to the traits and personalities of ‘the insiders’ for its spring/summer 2019 collection, which builds upon its ongoing exploration of the idea of ‘the club’: the pepe Jeans london club. self-expression is key here bringing their own sense of non-conformist style to whatever they are wearing, be it through slogans and motifs, logos or the addition of bright splashes of colour.” 14 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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mass market and unbranded segments. The increasing shift of rural fashion market from ethnic to western wear, online retail penetration and versatility and innovation in design and styles is what is rocking the denim industry. Denim is among the highest growth categories in the Indian apparel market and has the largest numbers of local and global players. Most denim brands are now busy bringing out their Spring/Summer ’19 collection in a colorful medley of cool, warm tones in a host of styles for both men and women.

Trend forecast for Spring/ Summer ’19 Experts estimated the market size of Indian denim at Rs 20,205 crore in 2016. It is now projected to grow at a CAGR of 14.5 per cent and reach Rs 39,651 crore by 2021, and Rs 77,999 crore by 2026. The men’s denim segment comprises 84 per cent while women’s and kids’ denim segment comprise 10 and 6 per cent respectively. It is thus definitely a segment that garment manufacturers are including in their general apparel portfolio even if they are not a strictly a denim company. Denim sells well across all economic segments as it is affordable, trendy and widely accepted in society as it covers all and reveals nothing. “For the denim line this season, we dig into American heritage and reinterpret it for our modern times on one hand while on the other, we have a fun holiday collection high on 90s youth fashion inspiration, resort shirts and acid washed jeans summing up the look perfectly. As a style statement, we can describe our styles as effortless casual and laid back luxury. For this season we worked on seven themes, five big ones and two capsule. For the athleisure line, we have ‘Lab Sports’ and ‘Deconstruction’ as themes the first is minimalist and the other is techno grunge. For the denim line the themes include Americana, Poetic Nature and Soda Punk, visually they are very different but denim is central highlight of all these themes. Apart from these five we have Africanation and Art not War as capsule collections,” says Kunal Mehta, VP, Marketing and Business Development, Being Human Clothing. India’s climatic conditions play a major role in the design aspects of a range. Lightweight fabrics with breathability and moisture absorption are important functional aspect. Denim apparels are considered low maintenance and easy to wear which makes them readily acceptable. Denim wear is available in different designs, stretch and colours and forming a part of apparel segments like dresses, joggers’ pants, jeggings, lightweight denim shirts, denim shorts and accessories. Denim products with high-end finishes and innovative product designs are gaining popularity across the globe. Owning to its fit and comfort characteristic, stretch denim has catch up the trend. Colors, structures and patterns are becoming cleaner and more muted. Deep indigo, greys and black denims besides blue in all a variety of shades always 15 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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take centre stage in the denim portfolio. “Pepe Jeans London looks to the traits and personalities of ‘The Insiders’ for its spring/summer 2019 collection, which builds upon its ongoing exploration of the idea of ‘the club’: The Pepe Jeans London club. Self-expression is key here bringing their own sense of non-conformist style to whatever they are wearing, be it through slogans and motifs, logos or the addition of bright splashes of colour. The Revolutionaries & Challengers line puts emphasis on innovation and ingenuity with traditional techniques and local materials used in new and exciting ways. Laid-back denim is at the core of this collection, a fresh blue and white palette encapsulating retro styles built around shorts and great shirts; and, for women’s wear, boho Seventies styles like peasant tops, corduroys and relaxed bottom wear. Lastly the ‘Explorers & Curious’ line which is a collection with an eclectic spirit from print and pattern to style and silhouettes,’’ points out Neha Shah, Assistant General Manager- Marketing, Pepe Jeans. Denim mills today are focusing on a range of innovation in their fabrics and high quality yarns to fight their way to the top in this competitive scenario. Denim shirting has a good future because the Indian shirting market is largely non denim,

leaving enough scope for denim to replace non denim clothing. From being confined to small urban pockets and casual settings, denim is now trending in both men’s and women’s apparel segments across India. This has seen consumption of denim going up considerably. A traditional cotton yarn player is now increasing its product portfolio to include denim in both top and bottom wear. Although denim is popular across all age groups and income classes, the young generation wears it the most, especially the fancier and coloured denims. Recently there has been a big play in colours, with over 1012 sulphur colours trending this summer. “Staying close to our core of providing exceptionally comfortable fashion, in the upcoming season, Raisin is all set to introduce a new collection ‘You Are Hue’. The collection, keeping true to its name is a colourful medley of pop, cool, and warm tones with a host of styles and patterns to cater to the preferences of our customers. Armed with a combination of premium quality fabrics and aesthetically crafted styles, Raisin is ready to build itself as the ultimate go-to brand that is widely accepted and revered when it comes to high quality fabrics, chic designs and trendy styles,” explains Vikash Pacheriwal, Co-Founder, Raisin, a new fashion brand that aims to blend Indian culture and contemporary influences.

Manjula Gandhi

Chief Product Officer, Numero Uno “We have innovated with an interesting mix of natural and sustainable fabrics, technology driven sustainable washing: ‘One Glass Water Jeans’. In denim, indigos span a wide range from pale, sun-faded and bleached out blues to brighter mid-tones, vintage and heavily washed, to deep raw clean look. Also, frayed denim with boroinspired repairing is a highlight. Our denims range named ‘Amekazi’ takes inspiration from native American culture, military clothing and vintage denim styles amalgamated with Japanese design to form a distinctive Japanese-American aesthetic.”

Innovations and challenges in denim Changing fashions make innovations in existing and new products necessary. With international ramp shows heralding in new seasons in a rapidly growing tech-savvy India, the fabric industry is working overtime to be in tune with current trends. Experts feel India is capable of a lot of innovation and variety since it has around 12 lakh textile retailers spread across the country Manjula Gandhi, Chief Product Officer of Numero Uno explains, “We have innovated with an interesting mix of natural and sustainable fabrics, technology driven sustainable washing: ‘One Glass Water Jeans’. And there is a new collection of graphic tees known as the ‘Magic Tees’ where the print color changes as you move from indoor to outdoor. In denims, indigos span a wide range from pale, sunfaded and bleached out blues to brighter mid-tones, vintage and heavily washed, to deep raw clean look. Also, frayed denim with boro-inspired repairing is a highlight. Our denims range named ‘Amekazi’ takes inspiration from native American culture, military clothing and vintage denim styles 16 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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amalgamated with Japanese design to form a distinctive Japanese-American aesthetic.” The emergence of tattered denim has provided a perfect option for fashion conscious youth. The applications of distressed/ripped/ tattered/patched denim in many new forms come every season and can also be seen in jackets, shorts and skirts along with denim jeans. New denim fabric washes, which are basically shades of the denim fabric are created by the top players who focus on achieving different hues of blue by washing the fabric in certain dyes, bleaches or other agents that affect the denim colour. Dark indigo, faded blue/vintage/aged, stone wash and distressed jeans are new denim fabric washes trending now. “Key product innovations that we engage in a balance of maximal and minimal elements within our design to enhance performance as well as functionality. We instrument a two-line approach of core and fashion, that centres around our marketing strategy of contributing to building awareness of active wear products and its usability for daily casual wear and active wear. The collection continues to follow extreme silhouettes and sculpted volume silhouettes that have fluidity for movement that is lightweight and cooling transitioning from Studio to Street,” points out Sunishka Goenka, Creative Director and Founder of Myriad Activewear.

Fabric trends weave comfort with style There are many types of fabric in the current range of denim which includes knitting denim, chalk denim, structured denim, normal denim, jacquard denim and printed denim. The types of fabric in the current range of cotton include: stretched cotton, structured cotton and blended cotton. Cotton and Lycra have been most preferable components in denim. A large chunk of denim is a combination of these two fabrics and there has been a lot of incorporation of Tencel, Modal and viscose, especially in the fashion segment. “Sustainability in fashion will be the biggest drive for future. Hybrid products from Derby’s Denim DNA will be our unique style statement. Our hybrid workwear will feature clean rinse washed jeans that can be worn for work & casual lifestyle. Our range will complement our hybrid jeans and provide a wide variety of product mix for urban and aspiring market segments. Some of the key fabrics used with denim this season include a few regenerated fibers like Tencel, Excel are blended onto natural fibers for a soft hand feel and comfort, stretch fabrics are our brands’ strength that offers unmatchable comfort. Derby is listed among the top 100 sustainable brands within the country and hence, we do not use synthetic fabrics like polyester that are made from petrochemicals that exploit natural resources,’’ says Vijay Kapoor, Managing Director, Derby Jeans Community. The Indian denim market is bursting with challenges. The first challenge is stiff competition by both local and international players, the second is pricing of yarns and

Vijay Kapoor

Sunishka Goenka

Creative Director and Founder, Myriad Activewear “Key product innovations that we engage in a balance of maximal and minimal elements within our design to enhance performance as well as functionality. We instrument a two-line approach of core and fashion, that centres around our marketing strategy of contributing to building awareness of active wear products and its usability for daily casual wear and active wear. The collection continues to follow extreme silhouettes and sculpted volume silhouettes that have fluidity for movement that is lightweight and cooling transitioning from Studio to Street.”

fabrics going up constantly while MRPs remain almost static in the basic segment, resulting in a pressure on manufacturers in terms of business, revenue and margins. Most bigger players have a R&D team to visit national as well as international markets and implement their findings in their portfolio. Denim mills today are focusing on a range of innovation in their fabrics and high quality yarns to fight their way to the top. Denim shirting has a good future because the Indian shirting market is largely non denim, leaving enough scope for denim to replace non denim clothing. “We have two exciting collections: Leisure Saturday and New Denim City, coming in for women’s and men’s respectively. Fashion today, means ready-to-wear all the time. We are now over with winter trends but not yet ready for an entirely new summer wardrobe. This is the time where we are looking for ‘inbetweeners’ new essentials of our everyday wardrobe. Season-less, is a new aesthetic for today’s youth. Dressed-up leisure looks are the key; layering bright knit styles and flower midi skirts or bright coloured sweaters with a new blue high waist jeans. Fabrics used in our general apparel portfolio will include linen that will be a big fabric trend

in the coming season. People are done with basic styles and we think will see new details and cuts being used in this fabric. Natural fabrics will also see an upswing,’’ says Devender Gupta, Founder (Inceptra Lifestyle), the force behind brand Tom Tailor, an online shopping site for men and women. The future of denim industry will depend on how brands build their omni-channel strategy and its technology through which they can tap additional customers across smaller cities. The mid segment is stronger and bigger as it reaches a wider number of aspirational customers across Tier II and III cities. The rising aspirations of these price and quality conscious consumers looking for more variety and innovation in the denim segment have led to a growth spurt. And in the premium luxury segment, a variety of designs, mixed blends and sophisticated finishes is the need of the hour. Not only in the western section as bottom and top wear, denim has penetrated into almost every category in women’s wear in some form, including blouses and kurtis in ethnic wear. Denim never goes out of style but how brands handle innovation to keep the segment looking and feeling is the magic wand to market success.

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COVER STORY

Spykar stays ahead with its trendy high fashion spykar has always stayed ahead of the race with its innovations and trendy offerings aimed at the youth. the brand continues to strive ahead as it looks to be more appealing to the youth by reflecting their philosophies of life • Spykar’s latest collection is inspired by soft yet colourful palette and breezy fabrics ; the playful prints and motifs that resonate with the bright and sunny summer season • The brand has recently launched athleisure denims called Gym Jns. With a ‘4-Way Dynamic Stretch’ and ‘Ergonomic construction’ these jeans offer the user unrestricted freedom of movement, making them an ideal clothing for Gym and for outside too!

ndia’s leading jeanswear brand for the youth, Spykar is synonymous with the ‘Young & Restless’ generation of today. The brand Spring/Summer 19 collection is revolves around the theme of “Wear Your Vibe.” Oozing class, style and contemporary fashion, the collection is designed keeping

• It is present across 900+ MBOs, 240 EBOs, 5 large format chains. Overall it has touch points across 350 towns in the country. • The brand expects its online channel to contribute around 10 per cent to its overall business this year

in mind the mind-set of the youth of being energetic, fearless and stylish.

Wearing your vibe The ‘Wear Your Vibe’ collection is all about being young and restless this season. The soft yet colourful palette and breezy

fabrics have been carefully curated to help the wearer get going around the clock. The playful prints and motifs are all inspired by elements that resonate with the bright and sunny summer season. The collection has three diverse product lines: The Purist for minimalist consumer; YNR for the stylish consumer; and the ACTIF

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range for expressive fashion lover. The collection is based on four diverse themes: Street Trooper, Easy Breezy, Sporti-fi and Edgy.

Launching an athleisure range Spykar has launched a new range of athleisure denims GYMJNS. A perfect denim for before and after gyming activities and outside too, Spykar GymJns are designed for the outrageously stylish fitness enthusiast. It has a ‘4-Way Dynamic Stretch’ and ‘Ergonomic construction’ these jeans offer the user unrestricted freedom of movement. These stylishly denims with a sporty look include styles with zippered pockets, drawcords, typography side seams, elasticated waistbands, reflective tape details, sporty fits amongst other smart detailing.The range is now available panIndia across 240 stores and also online.

Satisfying diverse consumers needs Inspired by para-military troops, the street trooper range of the brand’s Wear Your Vibe collection uses badges, camouflage prints and earthy colours. The Easy Breezy range, on the other hand, is a beach, sun and surf inspired collection. “This range

Sanjay Vakharia

CEO, Spykar “Yes, there are challenges at different fronts but that’s the beauty of this business. Complex and intricate designs make the product difficult but it gives us immense pleasure to produce such awesomely complicated fashion products. We serve a tough, demanding customer - the youth, who is also the biggest consumer of the brand and the denim category.”

“We need both online and offline channels to serve at their full potential to meet our customer’s needs.”

offers vacation ready clothes dominated by prints, graphics and use of pastel colors,” notes Sanjay Vakharia, CEO, Spykar. The third range in this collection, Edgy Style is inspired by minimalism concept. “It focuses on materials used, fit and finish of the product. The Sporti-fi collection, on the other hand, is inspired by street sports and uses sporty silhouettes, colour blocking and placement typo graphics.”

All about lighter fabrics, innovative technologies The ‘Wear Your Vibe’ collection also uses lighter fabrics such as cotton or cotton blends in pastel or neutral shades in its Wear.“We offer a huge range of linen shirts, which is a great fabric for summer. Our print and design techniques cover latest trends in terms of placement typo graphic, botanical prints, minimalistic all over prints etc,” Vakharia explains. Innovation at Sypkar involves creating trendy and hi-fashion products using updated and efficient technologies which provide great look, feel and finish to the end product while reducing waste, are eco-friendly and sustainable. Vakharia explains, “Some of the innovations we use include: less water washes, laser technologies for dry processing and recycled yarns.” The brand has also created an entire line of jeans and joggers using bi-stretch (four-way stretch) denim fabric. This collection, named GYMJNS, is for both men and women and provides extra flexibility and freedom of movement.

Unfazed by challenges The brand is ready to take on the challenges in its strides, as Vakharia says, “Yes, there are challenges at different fronts but that’s the beauty of this business. Complex and intricate designs make the product difficult but it gives us immense pleasure to produce such awesomely complicated fashion products. We serve a tough, demanding customer - the youth, who is also the biggest consumer of the brand

“Today’s youth are an experimental lot and it is challenging to keep them hooked onto a brand. Denim as a category is a poster boy of cool fashion. Another challenge is the co-existing of offline and online formats. We need both these channels to serve at their full potential to meet our customer’s needs.” and the denim category.” He says, “We have managed to satisfy them with great products and fits for the last 25 years. We now plan to make the brand more appealing by reflecting their philosophies of life.” However, it is easier said than done he feels as “Today’s youth are an experimental lot and it is challenging to keep them hooked onto a brand. Denim as a category is a poster boy of cool fashion. Another challenge is the co-existing of offline and online formats. We need both these channels to serve at their full potential to meet our customer’s needs,” he opines.

Retail expansion across all channels Present across India, Spykar currently has 240 EBOs in 140 cities. The brand is also present in over 900 MBOs in 350 towns and five large format stores such as Pantaloon, Globus, Central, Lifetsyle, Shoppers Stop in 100 cities. “We plan to reach 500 towns in the next two to three years,” says Vakharia. The brand, which is present across all key portals like Myntra, Jabong, Amazon, Flipkart as well as its own website – spykar. com, expects online channels to contribute around 10 per cent to its overall business this year.

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BRAND LEADER

Pepe Jeans ‘We reinvent denim fashion by using new washes and innovations’ possible due to our commitment to create strong fashion led collections, hottest multimedia marketing campaigns and most exciting retail environments. We remain sincere to our roots in London’s Portobello Road from where the brand originated. We reinvent denim fashion by using new washes and innovations season after season,” adds Shah.

Denim customisation

Neha Shah

Assistant General ManagerMarketing

The brand

Founded in1973, Pepe Jeans entered India in 1989. The brand manufactures a wide array of chic casual wear for men, women and kids. “Jeans is our core product and sells extremely well,” reveals Neha Shah, Assistant General Manager-Marketing. “Jeans are available in a variety of fabrics, washes, fits and colors,” she adds. The brand’s product portfolio also includes T-shirts, flat knits, sweaters, sweat shirts, jackets as well as woven merchandise. Its accessories range consists of bags, wallets, caps, socks footwear. Pepe Jeans London has stayed at the forefront of international denim-led fashion by launching each collections as per changing fashion trends. “This has been

Pepe Jeans is the first denim brand in the country to introduce denim customisation. “Our Custom Studio allows customers to step into the design seat and customise their denim through a few easy steps. Customisation service empowers customers to personalise their denim therein laying a powerful tool to revolutionise denim fashion in India,” notes Shah. Currently, the custom studio is available at five locations across India. These are: flagship stores in Mumbai, Delhi, Gurgaon, Bangalore and Kolkata. Pepe Jeans tied up with Style Lumia, a fashion analytics site that goes to all websites and gathers data on which styles are considered ‘in’ at the moment, what color, what style is selling well. “This helps us decode buying needs. It also enables us to tap crucial information to predict current fashion in a better way to get the right kind of merchandise, understand the global trends,” adds Shah.

Growing preference for branded denim

Shah points out, women’s denim wear segment has also witnessed profound growth over the last decade. “Westernisation

and urbanisation and various other factors such as new technologies, styles, finishes, looks and trends, the denim category has captured not just the cities, but also Tier I, II towns,” she adds. As more international brands are launching their products in the country, there is a growing preference for branded denims amongst Indian consumers. Besides brick and mortar stores, Pepe Jeans also e-retails through partners like Myntra, Jabong, Amazon, Flipkart, Cilory and Ajio. “Our objective is to ensure that our consumers have a ‘wow’ experience every time they shop from Pepe Jeans – be it through our stores or e-retail,” concludes Shah.

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BRAND LEADER

Jack & Jones ‘Fashion is not just an industry but a lifestyle’ The brand

Jack & Jones celebrates denim as its core proposition. The brand is known for its quirky T-shirts, casual shirts and denims which form the biggest chunk of its business. Its latest collection uses a myriad of acid and enzyme wash treatments, besides the laser technology. “We have also introduced earth tints with an extensive mud wash that satiates the rising need of ruggedness. Besides, we have incorporated Lycra patches and reintroducing the relaxed fit. Our current style trend is heavily inspired by the 90s and brings back athleisure styles and indigo shades,” notes the spokesperson of the brand.

Retail footprint

Jack & Jones India currently has 68 stores and 404 shop-in-shops spread across the country. The brand is available with leading online partners. “We have increased our footprint in the Tier II and Tier III cities and look forward to exploring opportunities in these markets. These markets have a huge untapped potential, owing to evolving needs of young consumers influenced by the pop culture and high fashion trends. Fashion is not just an industry but a lifestyle; we want to bring it to as many cities and as many people as possible,” adds the spokesperson.

E-commerce initiatives

E-commerce helps a brand connect with customers across the country. It allows brands to be omnipresent, increases accessibility and helps them remain relevant in the retail space as well. Every retail brand has realised that this industry cannot depend on a single retail channel. “Brands have started focusing on incorporating technology into in-store and online experiences and are making a headway in the right direction,” he states. Online retail has brought the brand closer to its customers across the country. “The response has been encouraging and we look forward to increasing our product range online,” he adds.

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BRAND LEADER

Numero Uno ‘Our consumers seek creativity, fashion and functionality in their purchases’ functionality in their purchases.”

Youth drive demand driven

samresh das

design manager-denim, shirt, outerwear

The brand

“Our style statement has always been the real denim,” opines Samresh Das, Design

India essentially being a young nation most of the growth in denim wear segment is driven by youth and their preferences. “The new generation is more mobile, open to change and opts for more trendy and comfortable clothes that suit their dynamic lifestyles. Emergence of the jog-denims and the athleisure trend signifies a cultural shift towards the athletic inspired comfortwear , clothing that is sporty yet versatile and can be worn socially as well,” he adds. He points out mid-segment denim is gaining popularity in India as it is cost effective. The rapidly growing urban population amd their changing lifestyles, increased disposable incomes, increased mobility and exposure to global fashion, have led to an overall increase in demand for womens denims & casualwear.

Fits score high among youth

“However, there are not many players in women’s denims category. The most important factor in denims is fits. Indian body types being varied, achieving the perfect fit requires a lot of research, study and technical expertise which few brands, like ours, have been able to do. Numero Uno boasts of having achieved the right denim fits for Indian women.” Price is a crucial factor that drives denim purchase as people invest more on top wear that bottom wear. “The mid and economy denim segments are much stronger than premium and super-premium segments with former enjoying almost 67 per cent of the market share value wise. As a large part of our population still resides in rural, Tier II, III cities dominated by unbranded denim players, they operate in lower price segment where awareness about quality of fabric, design washes and finishes is relatively low,” he adds.

Registering a healthy growth rate

Women’s denim industry has evolved over years as they now more confident about wearing denim than any other ensemble. “Women’s denims are among the fastest growing categories in women’s casual apparel segment in India registering a growth rate of 18 per cent. Denim is a high growth category, as consumers find them versatile, fashionable and comfortable. Women in Tier II, III towns are also adapting to changing trends,” he adds. Noting a substantial growth in EBOs and a decent partnership with all leading MBO s Numero Uno is penetrating different regions of India. The brand which plans to focus on the ELPP and the super premium denim range, “hopes to grow by 5 per cent this year.”

Manager-Denim, Shirt, Outerwear, Numero Uno. The brand has created new fits that flaunt feminine curves. Current styles focus on high waist, skinny as well as boyfriend and ripped jeans. Targeting young as well as mid-aged women, Numero Uno focuses on fashion elements in its denims. Its core range offers basic denims and jeggings in a variety of colors and washes and forms 40 per cent of its collection. “While the fashion range comprising stylized detailing, value addition and innovative washes based on latest fashion trends in jeans, skirts, shorts, dungarees etc constitutes the other 60 per cent,” adds Das Talking about the buying behavior of its customers, Das says, “Comfort with fashion sells more. Due to changing lifestyles and fast evolving preferences, our consumers seek both creativity and fashion alongwith 22 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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BRAND LEADER

Being Human ‘We are expanding in Tier II, III markets’ The brand

Present across 15 countries with over 600 points of sale, Being Human offers jeans, T-shirts and shirts for men and women. “We have around 79 EBOs across the world and are present at all leading LFSs such as Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Central, etc. Having made an impact in most metros and key markets in India, we are currently expanding in the Tier II and Tier III markets in India. We plan to tap new markets such as the Northeast, known for its fashion driven consumers.” Apart from this region, the brand will also be opening stores in Bhubaneshwar, Srinagar, Vapi, Nagpur, Hyderabad, Delhi, Guwahati, Noida, Lucknow, Dehradun, Jammu, Raipur, Meerut, Gorakhpur, Gurugram, Cuttack, Imphal, Shillong and Goa.

All about India’s denim market

With the introduction of new styles, colors and trends, the Indian denim market is evolving at a rapid pace. It is one of the most promising categories in Indian apparel industry as consumers are accepting denim as a core apparel that can be worn as an everyday casual garment. One of the key growth triggers is the versatility that denim offers to consumers. Use of stretch and lightweight fabrics, varied colors, styles and details is also fuelling the demand for denim in India.

E-commerce boosts denim demand

Increased use of e-commerce has opened new avenues for retailers to reach out to consumers in markets they do not have a physical presence. “We launched our online store in August 2018, which provides our shoppers across India an access to products. The store, so far, has received a positive response. We also have a strong online presence which includes all leading online apparel websites like Myntra, Jabong, Koovs amongst others.”

Aeropostale ‘Our flex denim range is a 360° stretch jeans with premium quality’ The brand

Representing the same spirit of adventure and discovery that led Compagnie Generale Aéropostale, a pioneer airmail company to fly across France, South Africa and South America in 1918, brand Aeropostale targets Generation Y and Z consumers, who live in the moment and dream of beautiful future ahead. “These consumers, aged 16 to22 years, are socially conscious and yearning to explore new styles. They are boundlessly active, devoted to personal style and appreciate good quality and value,” says the spokesperson of the brand.

Flex effect denim helps retain body shape

With a DNA comprising qualities like authenticity, accessibility and youthfulness, Aeropostale launches two collections every year: Spring and Fall/ Winter. “Our vibrant A/W 2018 collection offered something for every fashion forward youngster. It included flex effect denims that do not lose their shape over time. The range reflects modern sensibilities, new innovations and the best of youth fashion.”

Flex denim enables 360o stretch

The Flex Denim range is a 360° stretch jeans crafted from premium quality 4-way stretch denim fabric. This denim enables the wearer to stretch and move in any direction to provide the most comfortable fit and an array of motion. “The super high rise fit of the denim is inspired by Marilyn Monroe. The denim is also available in a Cheeky Fit, which is a waist-cinching and butt-lifting fit that almost every customer wants. The price range of this denim starts from Rs.3,500 and it is available across all Aeropostale outlets,” he informs.

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BRAND LEADER

Hoffmen ‘Change in classification of consumer’s wardrobe is inspiring creativity, exclusivity’ The Brand

Incepted in 1991, Hoffmen since the last 27 years has been producing denim shirts, T-shirts, casual trousers, winter wear ,shorts, etc for men. “Our women’s wear brand Ms*HFN offers denim, jeggings, hosiery knitted trousers, corduroys, casual shirts, fashion tees, winter wear, pullovers and sweat shirts,” says Auyush Rungta, Director of the brand

Market Drivers

aayush rungta director

Earlier, fashion was considered a basic need that complies with the budget oriented mind set of consumers. However, a gradual increase in per capita consumption has resulted in frequent exposure to

this particular business more complex,” states Rungta. Recent trends have indicated increased penetration of denim category across semi-urban and rural areas, resulting in quantitative growth across the mass market in different strata. “The market is currently dominated by unbranded denim products with 60 per cent share. However, the entry of private labels and international brands has fuelled demand for branded denims in India,” adds Rungta. Growing internet coupled with rapidly increasing smart phones has resulted in the growth of e-tailing in India. The ease of ordering online, paucity of time, flexible return policy and cash on delivery (COD) is encouraging the youth to purchase more online.

Personalising denim

Rungta believes “Denim can never be personalised. Every brand focuses on different fits for different body shapes along with different kind of washes apart from blue. Also different patterns are developed for parties, offices, general wear and week wear,” he adds.

Changing consumer behavior

Recent trends have indicated an increase in penetration of denim across semi-urban and rural areas, resulting in quantitative growth across the mass market in different strata. “The market is currently dominated by unbranded denim products capturing 60 per cent market share. However, the entry of private labels and international brands has fuelled demand for branded denim in India,” adds Rungta. “Youth between 1529 years comprise 26 per cent of denim consumers in India and are the major growth drivers.”

international fashion trends and growing market for occasion-specific disposable market. “Change in classification of consumer’s wardrobe is inspiring creativity and exclusivity for casual and denim wear,” Rungta explains.

Style trends

The inclusion of the fashion element in denim has made this business more complex. “People are becoming more innovative with fashion trends evolving frequent exposure to international and domestic brands. HFN offers many denim styles like the ankle length denim, knitted denim, structure based denim, hosiery based denim, etc. An intense competition amongst different brand is also making

Wide spread of internet coupled with rapidly increasing smart phones has resulted in the growth of e-tailing in India. Easy online retail, flexible return policy and cash on delivery (COD) also encourages the youth to purchase more online.

Athleisure, a growing market

This new trend mostly deals with sportswear and will very soon include casual wear too. Hoffmen is currently working on the concept of ‘No Denim Denim’, a range of pants that offer the same look, feel and fit of traditional denim, without sagging tightness or color transference. “In short, it is jeans that fit properly without leaving a negative impact,” adds Rungta. He says the segment offers good potential for growth. The brand plans to introduce a new product in this category soon.

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BRAND LEADER

Donear NXG ‘The growth momentum in denim is likely to continue’ The Brand

A trendy, peppy, high street, casual wear brand for men, Donear NXG offers a wide range of ready-to- wear men’s garments. “Aged between 18-35 years, our target consumers seek core real deal value alongwith a superior quality. We reach them through our over 200 EBOs which we plan to further grow to 400 EBOs,” says Akash Manwani, AVP - Retail Division.

Akash Manwani AVP - Retail Division

Comparing creativity to innovation, Manwani believes it is important for consumers to follow latest trends. “Our consumers prefer exclusive washes such as selvedge, stone wash, waxed, acid wash and destroyed, ” says Manwani. The brand’s collection is segmented into two categories -- Fashion and Core based on consumer preference. “In Fashion, we have: Worn Out Collection, DX Collection, Backyard Collection and Miami collection. The Core collection offers lusturous collection. In fittings, we prefer the tapered, narrow, slim and super skinny fits. We offer accessories and trims like contrast trims, metal id for branding or logo, visible prints, etc,” Manwani adds. Alongwith fittings, denim styles have also changed. “We are seeing new products like cropped jeans, baggy jeans, straight leg jeans, detailing and embellishment jeans. Now, denim also offers functional benefits like water saving, water repellence apart from this washes like cloud wash, towel wash, raisin process, etc.”

Changing consumer behavior

Consumers are spending more money on lifestyle products including fashion, accessories, health, food and entertainment. “There is a major shift from formal wear to casual wear, even corporates are adopting the dress down culture and wearing denim to offices. Denim has taken over the market of formal trousers and is continuously growing in double digits YOY. This momentum is likely to continue in future also,” adds Manwani.

Retail Strategy

Globalisation has made it essential for retailers to be on their toes always. They need to adapt innovative formats to meet customer preferences. Malls, in the recent past defined the way of middle class shopped. “But with drastic change in trends, customer preferences, and their income level, single brand stores are gaining importance. Retailers also prefer multi brand outlets as they give them freedom to choose and decide. In exclusive formats, retailers have to abide to brand guidelines such as fixed set of promotions for a year. Apparels in these outlets are more product and less brand drive,” explains Manwani. Elaborating on the benefits of MBOs, Manwani points out, “MBOs also showcase products in a way that it facilities consumers to compare and decide. However, they do not get territory benefits from the brands like EBOs and hence, have to face fierce competition from other MBOs.” He calls EBOs brand, centric models. “They provide complete fashion solution keeping clothes both fashionable, and functional. The retailer enjoys territory protection, rebates and marketing support from the brand, better margins, and other subsidies.” Branded outlets create store brand image which enables the brand to choose the location, size, and configuration of the store. They also get more discounts and incentives compared to MBOs. An EBO maintains uniformity in store design, interiors, products, size, promotions and pricing. This prevents harsh competition among exclusive store retailers, giving them a fair chance at profits,” he adds. However, EBOs get very little footfall and lose customers who seek options of similar brands. Also, an EBO requires high investment, and it is challenging for a retailer to find the right location to set up a store.

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WOMENS DENIM

Women’s Denim driven by style, comfort and versatility penetrating smaller towns and rural areas, demand for women’s denim has been on the rise across india. aspirational lifestyles have meant demand for branded denim too has gone up even though small time, unbranded players still have larger market share. Brands and manufacturers have responded by revving up their product basket with innovations that are in trend globally, write ajanta Ganguly and ajay kumar Goswami he women’s denim market is currently undergoing a paradigm shift, with more innovative and sophisticated products designs, blends and finishes becoming mainstream and gaining popularity in India with its ‘wow’ factor. Rapidly growing urbanization with rising incomes and the invasion of digital media has resulted in quick rise

• Women’s denim market undergoing a paradigm shift • Innovative and sophisticated products designs, blends and finishes in demand • There is growing preference for brands even in small towns and rural India • The mid-segment denims have been and will remain the bestsellers • Omni-channel retail has helped in segment growth

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Kavindra Mishra

Managing Director, Pepe Jeans India “Denims are widely accepted not because of their functionality but also due to their versatility. For instance, in smaller towns a lot of young women are seen opting for denims over ethnic wear. Economic factors have a role to play, disposable incomes, job growth indirectly contribute to consumer spending and in turn impact the fashion industry. The organized or branded market is not just favoured in the urban areas but also rural areas.”

Vasanth Kumar

Managing Director, Lifestyle International “Denim brands are now looking at athleisure that has gained popularity also among Indian millennials. Being a fashion outpost for the youth, we ensure our consumers get the best of athleisure through curated collections and the best of brands. Currently, our brands Kappa, Forca, Ginger, UCLA &Bossini among others have an extensive athleisure collection for both men and women that comprises latest trends of the season.”

Samresh Das

Design Manager, Denim, Shirts and Outerwear, Numero Uno “The mid-segment denim segment is much stronger than the premium and super premium segment because it is cost effective. Rapidly growing urban population and their changing lifestyles, increased disposable incomes, increased mobility and exposure to global fashion, have led to an overall increase in demand for women’s denims and casual wear. However, there are not many players in the women’s denims category. The most important factor that makes it sell is the way it fits.” They say in order to survive in the market, every brand, big or small, should have its own USP in product profile with a different ratio of profitability factor. There is no maturity of the Indian denim market currently, which is good in a way as once any apparel market matures, it is on decline curve. “Denim as a category has captured not only the cities, but also Tier I, II towns. Denims are widely accepted not because of their functionality but also due to their versatility. For instance, in smaller towns a lot of young women are seen opting for denims over ethnic wear. Economic factors have a role to play, disposable incomes, job growth indirectly contribute to consumer spending and in turn impact the fashion industry. The organized or branded market is not just favoured in the urban areas but also rural areas. Skinny jeans, mom jeans or baggy denims, and slim fits are the top styles. The beauty of skinny jeans is that they can be paired with almost anything, mom jeans are more comfy and stylish whereas slim fits are preferred by everyone because of their versatility and function,” points out Kavindra Mishra, Managing Director, Pepe Jeans India, manufactures of a wide array of chic casual wear for men, women and kids. Experts also say the future of denim industry will depend on how brands build their omni-channel strategy and its technology through which they can tap additional customers across smaller cities. The mid segment is stronger and bigger as

in sales of the women’s denim segment. To leverage growth in the current market scenario, denim brands are focussing on product innovations, pricing and consumer preferences when curating new collections for their discerning women customers. As more international brands move to Tier II, III cities, a growing preference is seen among these consumers for both brand name as well as it’s aspirational value. However, pricing has always been a crucial point for Indian consumers as women are especially incline towards spending more on upper wear than bottom wear, as the former is more of in-your-face kind of apparel.

Denim growth story continues The mid-segment denims have been and will remain the bestsellers of this segment for a while. Analysts estimate the Indian market in women’s denims at around Rs 1,800 crores, growing at 18.5 per cent CAGR and expected to reach Rs 3,500 to 3,700 crore by 2025. The trend towards casualization combined with growing preference for look and comfort, drives the women denim market. Experts point out India is the fifth largest destination in global retail space, making the Indian apparel industry the second largest contributor in retail industry with denim being the single most leading segment in the fashion industry. 27 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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it reaches a wider number of aspirational customers across Tier II and III cities. Denim is one of the most promising categories in the Indian apparel industry as consumers are increasingly accepting denim as core apparel that can be worn as an everyday casual garment.

Brand play on the rise in women’s denims Rising aspirations of these price and quality conscious consumers have driven phenomenal growth in the women’s denim segment. Urban India has higher purchasing capacity as well as awareness about fashion trends thereby providing a huge market to denim players in the country. This further indicates preference towards purchasing premium and quality products which has led to deeper penetration of foreign brands and the popularity of private labels. “Having made an impact in most metros and key markets across India, we are now focusing on expanding in Tier II, III markets. The Indian denim market is evolving at fast pace with the introduction of more styles, colours and diverse trends in offerings. One of the key growth triggers for denim is its versatility. We launched our online store in August 2018, which gives access to shoppers across India to latest trends. So far, we have seen promising results on the new channel. We also have a strong online presence which includes all leading online apparel websites like Myntra, Jabong, Koovs amongst others. The rise of e-commerce has seen some phenomenal changes in the retail segment. It has opened up avenues for retailers to reach consumers in markets they do not have a physical presence,” says, a spokesperson for Being Human. A woman shopper’s needs are very

different to a man’s, since changes based on product offerings of fast-fashion brands that offer an array of trends, patterns, cuts, fabrics on a day-to-day basis. With a variety of options to choose from, brands have to constantly be at the top of their game to ensure that the fashion they offer is on par with international and domestic competition. In India, the mid and economy denim segments are much stronger controlling almost 67 per cent of the market value wise as compared to the premium and super-

Rahul Gupta

Vice President, Future Lifestyle Fashions (Jealous 21) “Currently, the unbranded segment has 60 per cent market share and competes primarily on price. This balance will shift in future driven by not just acceptance of brands in urban areas but also an increasing share of brands in rural areas, as aspirational consumers seek better quality and image.”

premium segments. A large section of Indian consumers belong to Tier II, III cities and rural areas where unbranded players operate in lower price segment, where awareness of quality of fabric, design washes and finishes is relatively low.

Denim with a twist is the new trend In women’s denims, skinny jeans and slim fits are the most popular because of their versatility and function. Denim cuts across all age brackets, shapes and sizes as various innovations in styling, technologies and trends contribute to its consistent growth. Denim features in the high growth casual wear category owing to its versatility, trendiness, comfort, and availability of vast choices, finishes, looks, fits and colours. The growth of indo-western fashion has also shaped the denim story in India. With more women working and the rise in the family disposable incomes, there is now more demand for the premium domestic and international brands in urban India. “We have an extensive array of enviable options such as distressed denims, acid washes, embroidery to patch work and many more in our collection. Denims with frayed hems, splats, ombre are effects that are most popular among shoppers. In terms of colors, ultramarine, navy blue, indigo, cerulean, cadet grey are top favorites in existing category. The innovations for the recent collections include culottes, denims with a small waist and wider legs, denim footwear and accessories and sequined denims which are on their way to be the next big thing. Extreme laundry and acid-bleach techniques and enzyme washed denims are extremely popular among shoppers across age groups. Also, mom jeans, high

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Aayush Rungta

Director, Hoffmen “Indian youth in 15-29 age group comprise 26 per cent of the consuming population and are key growth factors of denim. Fashion trends have evolved from and now it is an everyday affair with frequent exposures to international brands and domestic apparels reaching across every strata of the society. Right now every brand is focusing on different kind of fits for different body shapes plus different kind of washes apart from blue for wash requirements. And also different patterns of denim which can be worn to parties, offices, general wear and week wear.”

shapes plus different kind of washes apart from blue for wash requirements. And also different patterns of denim which can be worn to parties, offices, general wear and week wear,” explains Aayush Rungta, Director, Hoffmen, a leading manufacturer of jeans and other apparels. Owning to its fit and comfort characteristic, stretch denim has always been the most popular. Colors, structures and patterns are becoming cleaner and more muted. Deep indigo, greys and black denims have taken centre stage in women’s denims as they can be paired with just about anything. Denim is considered one of the most versatile fabrics and can be worn in many social and corporate settings. Accepted as workwear

on Friday’s in the bigger cities, men and women also pair denim with ethnic wear or kurtas in a mix and match trend. Many leading brands are now looking at the athleisure segment of denims which combine both fitness with high-fashion with innovations, styles and designs. These denims are worn for casual occasions and for physical activities such as going to the gym or a day out in the sun. ““Denim brands are now looking at athleisure that has gained popularity also among Indian millennials. Being a fashion outpost for the youth, we ensure our consumers get the best of athleisure through curated collections and the best of brands. Currently, our brands Kappa, Forca, Ginger,

waist and boyfriend jeans continue to be quite popular with consumers. Our brand continues to retain these classic styles while giving it a fashionable twist for the winter season,’’ points out the brand spokesperson for ONLY. The Indian denim industry is one with a lot of potential even as demand has been growing robustly over the past few years. For majority of Indian shoppers, denim is not just a usual wear but more of a fashion statement. The entry of international brands, budding economy and a large young consuming population that is driving sales both online as well as offline has contributed significantly to making India a highly lucrative retail market. “Indian youth in 15-29 age group comprise 26 per cent of the consuming population and are key growth factors of denim. Fashion trends have evolved from and now it is an everyday affair with frequent exposures to international brands and domestic apparels reaching across every strata of the society. Our women’s denim segment Ms*HFN ventures in different segments of denim: ankle length, knitted denim, structure based denims, hosiery based denims etc. Although personalized denim concept becoming popular, denim is never really a personalized product. Right now every brand is focusing on different kind of fits for different body 29 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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UCLA &Bossini among others have an extensive athleisure collection for both men and women that comprises latest trends of the season,” points out Vasanth Kumar, Managing Director, Lifestyle International.

Mid-segment denims are bestsellers “The mid segment is stronger and bigger as it reaches a wider number of aspirational customers across Tier II and III cities. The price points majorly hovers between Rs 1499-1999 and in the last 2-3 years, the prices have become more sharper aligning to market requirement. For the season, our brand has taken product innovation to the next level launching products like stay black and dust repellent white denims. Our collection also has a judicious mix of premium stretch fabrics and trendy edgy silhouettes. Currently, the unbranded segment has 60 per cent market share and competes primarily on price. This balance will shift in future driven by not just acceptance of brands in urban areas but also an increasing share of brands in rural areas, as aspirational consumers seek better quality and image,” points out Rahul Gupta, Vice President, Future Lifestyle Fashions the force behind Jealous 21, echoing the sentiments of most apparel segment. Women of all ages believe wearing denim makes them comfortable yet remain trendy and make a style statement of their own.

Being Human “The Indian denim market is evolving at fast pace with the introduction of more styles, colours and diverse trends in offerings. One of the key growth triggers for denim is its versatility. We launched our online store in August 2018, which gives access to shoppers across India to latest trends. So far, we have seen promising results on the new channel. The rise of e-commerce has seen some phenomenal changes in the retail segment. It has opened up avenues for retailers to reach consumers in markets they do not have a physical presence.” Many denim and casual wear brands are concentrating on leisure apparels which combine fitness with high fashion elements that include innovation in trends, styles and designs. “The mid-segment denim segment is much stronger than the premium and

super premium segment because it is cost effective. Rapidly growing urban population and their changing lifestyles, increased disposable incomes, increased mobility and exposure to global fashion, have led to an overall increase in demand for women’s denims & casual wear. However, there are not many players in the women’s denims category. The most important factor that makes it sell is the way it fits. Indian body types are varied and it is difficult to get the ideal fit for different body types. Achieving the perfect fit requires a lot of research study and technical expertise to crack the code which few brands, like ours, have been able to do. Numero Uno can boast of having achieved the right denim fits for the Indian women,’’ points out Samresh Das, Design, Manager of denim shirts and outerwear, Numero Uno. The denim wear market is dominated by unbranded denim products which comprises 60 per cent and thus tends to give intense competition to the branded segment. However, with many private labels and international brands entering India, the inclination towards brand denim is increasing. New age consumers with internet and smart phones has lead to immense growth in the e-tailing with the easy option, quick delivery, flexible return policy and cash on delivery. Product innovations, pricing and consumer preferences will be in the forefront for all brands across all segments when curating new collections that shape up new Indian woman.

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BRAND LEADER

Vero Moda ‘Our denim wear is curated for fashion-conscious, independent young women’

The brand

Synonymous with contemporary fashion and designs, Vero Moda is the brand of choice for fashion-conscious, independent young woman who want to dress well and pay less. The brand offers good quality, affordable and inspiring clothing for the young woman who wants to experiment with her looks. Vero Moda also offers an enviable line of denims in a variety of sizes tailored to suit the Indian body types.

The denim and casual wear market

An integral part of the Indian fashion industry, casual wear is constantly evolving and being accepted by people of all ages, personalities

and body types. It is a combination of high street fashion and street wear that suits individuals with varied tastes. Overtime, denim has been accepted as a wardrobe staple with the fabric being sported across occasions – workwear as well as casualwear. “It is considered one of the most versatile fabrics for men and women as it can be effortlessly sported on casual occasions as well as work wear. Our denim wear is curated for fashion-conscious, independent young women who want to dress smart with quality, affordable, and inspiring clothing.” Shoppers today are willing to pay a higher price for latest trends and quality. Vero Moda invests in fabric, improved technologies

and product innovation that ensures a zero compromise on quality of products. “With the fashion needs of women changing rapidly, we plan to expand to an everevolving demographic, by also making international fashion accessible across various geographies in India,” he states further.

The challenges

Rapidly evolving fashion trends are resulting in low lead time and a drastic reduction in product shelf life. “To counter this, brands need to refresh their inventory within short intervals to deliver new and improved products and manage consumer expectations,” adds the spokesperson.

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BRAND LEADER

ONLY ‘Shoppers are willing to pay a higher price for variety and quality of products’ The brand

Having a distinct personality, denim brand ‘ONLY’ caters to women seeking affordable and quality fashion into their everyday wardrobe. The brand, has carved a niche for itself by offering garments that resonate with self-confidence. The collection comprises high fashion western wear with an enviable mix of denim, knitwear, athleisure and party wear. Armed with a mission to denimize the world, ONLY’s Autumn/Winter 18 collection was an irresistible range of silhouettes, shades and washes that give denim a whole new meaning. “Denims with a hint of embroidery, doodles, patch and badge work are popular amongst our shoppers as they give a very distinct touch to their overall look. Sequined denims add the much-needed spark to their wardrobe while denims with open and unfinished hems continue to be their popular choice. Jackets, shirts, shorts, dungarees, skirts etc. are also regular favorites amongst them,” notes the spokesperson of the brand.

new technologies and trends. Owing to its versatility, trendiness, comfort, and availability of vast choices finishes, looks, fits and colors, denim features in the high growth casual wear category. The growth of indo-western fashion has also largely shaped the denim story in India.

No compromise on quality ensures customer loyalty

Various parameters like value for money, trending styles and accessibility are influencing fashion needs of consumers. “Shoppers today, are willing to pay a higher price for the variety and quality of products.” ONLY’s investment in improved technologies and product innovation ensures zero compromise on quality of products. Essentially a denim brand, ONLY’s collection reflect the denim attitude, look and image. Its denim archive addresses

consumers who “believe that compromising with your conviction is a crime.” The brand reinforces its identity through the details and trimmings on its denim.

Reaching a wider audience

Female shoppers usually have variety of options to choose from. “Brands therefore, need to be constantly on their toes and ensure that their offerings are on par with those of their competitors,” he advises. ONLY has a very strong online presence, with its own website and partner ecommerce sites. “We have been able to reach out to a wider set of audiences across metropolitans, Tier II, III markets and meet their everevolving needs. Fashion is not only an industry but a lifestyle and we aspire to bring this lifestyle to as many cities and people as possible,” he adds.

ONLY offers an extensive array of denim options such as distressed, acid washes, embroidery to patch work and more. “Denims with frayed hems, splats, ombre are the most popular effects among shoppers. In terms of colors, Ultramarine, Navy Blue, Indigo, Cerulean, Cadet Grey are top favorites.” ONLY reinvents denim trends on a regular basis. The brand retains their classic styles but gives them a fashionable twist. “Our extreme laundry and acid-bleach techniques and enzyme washed denims are extremely popular among shoppers across age groups. Also, mom jeans, high waist and boyfriend jeans continue to be quite popular with consumers,” adds the spokesperson. In the Spring/Summer, culottes, denims with a small waist and wider legs, denim footwear and accessories, sequined denims gains popularity.

Tech-savvy consumer drive demand

The demand for denim has been growing over the past few years. For majority of shoppers, denim is not just a casual wear but a fashion statement. “Increase in disposable income alongwith tech-savvy millennial population continues to drive sales across brands. The entry of international brands, budding economy and a large young consuming population helps brands augment their online as well as offline sales,” states the spokesperson. Various factors have contributed to the consistent growth of denims in India. These include: innovation in styling, 33 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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KIDSWEAR

Kidswear finds it comfort in denim and casuals denim rules the fashion market; however demand for casual wear is also growing on account of the comfort it offers to the consumers, write shubhangi Bidwe and ajay kumar Goswami enim being the “king of Fashion” everything revolves round it,” says Sohail Patca, Director, Ruff - the brand that offers denims and other casual wear apparels for kids in the a range of 0-16 years. “Denims are also more durable and suitable for outdoors.” adds Sharad Venkta, Managing Director & CEO, Toonz Retail who estimates the denim market to constitute around 1012 per cent of the total Rs 13,000 crore kidswear market. Denim bottoms have a larger market share due to their longer life cycle and utility. Ratio wise it’s around 30-40 per cent against casuals. However, casualwear is more in demand due to the comfort it offers and everyday wear feature,” he adds further.

• Denim market constitutes around 10-12 per cent of the total Rs 13,000 crore kidswear market in India • Denims with character prints for girls and boys and flashy t-shirts with detailed designing are trending • Though metros capture the maximum share of kids’ casual wear brands, non- metro cities are also growing in a big way • The kids casualwear market in India is expected to move from unorganised to organised market in future market is witnessing immense growth in India as the most important factor that parents’ consider while buying the outfit for their kids is the comfort and quality of the outfit. “Trust towards the local/existing kids’ wear brand also plays a very important role. Besides

that, factors like price, occasion,colour, fabric, design & styles are key aspects that a parents looks into while buying the outfit,” notes Venkta. “Kids outgrow clothes very soon and a good product priced appropriately can really help a brand to

Comfort dominates purchase decisions Just like denim, the kids casual wear

sharad venkta

managing director & Ceo, toonz retail “Factors like price, occasion, colour, fabric, design & styles are some of the key aspects that parents look into while buying an outfit for their kids.” 34 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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Mithun Gupta

Director, Bodycare International “Denims with character prints for girls and boys and flashy t-shirts with detailed designing are trending.” exploit full potential in this segment,” adds Abhishek Agarwal, Managing Director, UFO.

Rising potential of casual wear . Rise in disposable income along with an increase in the number of nuclear families has o created an immense potential for the growth of the casual wear segment in India. “The market, by the end of the year

Abhishek Agarwal

Managing Director, UFO “People in the non metros are now getting used to buying branded products and are moving more towards organised market with the opening up of malls and other retail outlets in those cities.”

2027, is expected to grow at a CAGR of 8 per cent,” notes Venkta. Although, metros are known to capture the maximum share of kids’ casual wear brands, non- metro cities are also growing in a big way. Toonz Retail, for instance, is present in 65 cities. “Our core strength comes from Tier 2 and Tier 3 towns as the people from these areas are aspirational in nature. They prefer comfort clothing, and opt for good quality products at affordable rates,” he adds

Styles and trends Elaborating on the emerging style trends in denim and casuals for kids, Mithun Gupta, Director, Bodycare Interntional, says, “Denims with character prints for girls and boys and flashy t-shirts with detailed designing are trending.” Agarwal adds, “today kids are becoming more fashion conscience. They learn to choose their garments at a very young age.” UFO tries to cater to these fashionable needs of the

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Skin-friendly fabrics in demand Parents are quite aware about organic products and demand skin friendly fabrics for their kids’clothes. “Comfort is the keyword. Mill made cotton tops the list of the most preferred fabric for kids’ clothes with poplins being ideal for top-wear. Pre-washed knits, ranging from 180 gsm to 200 gsm are also ideal for kids t-shirt,” observes Sohail Patca, Director Ruff. Designing for kids is more fun as these clothes are more vibrant and colourful. In addition to all-time favorites like Zesty reds, yellows and blues, the casualwear for kids also includes florescent shades. “This makes the clothes more funky and attractive,” adds Patca. Gold the glam and the bling are back in season, especially on prints and embroideries. “We also experiment with new colors like violet, cobalt and a touch of green for detailing. The colors for the bottom-wear have got dirtier with brighter shades like mustard brick-red, olives and military green,” he notes.

Non-metros emerge as the surprise growth centres

kids by making trendy comfortable garments for children. “Cut and sews being the latest fashion range; we have launched a range of smart, international cut n sew garments,” Agarwal states further.

Sohail Patca

Director, Ruff “Mill made cotton tops the list of the most preferred fabric for kids’ clothes with poplins being ideal for top-wear. Pre-washed knits, ranging from 180 gsm to 200 gsm are also ideal for kids t-shirt.”

The big markets for kids denim and casualwear in India are the tire II and III cities. The non-metros are also growing as consumers here are becoming more aspirational and have the pocket to spend on lifestyle products. “People in the non metros are now getting used to buying branded products and are moving more towards organised market with the opening up of malls and other retail outlets in those cities,” adds Agarwal. Online retail is emerging as a good alternative to penetrate the Indian denim and casual wear markets. “Although there are certain issues in online retailing, particularly in the denim and casualwear segments, these will resolve overtime. Online is the future of retail across the world, “ adds Agarwal further. Agreeing to this Gupta says, “Online retail is response –oriented and has made our consuers aware of our large product range.”

Move towards an organised market Many national & international big players are planning to tap the kids casualwear market in India, which will bring a drastic change in the category. The segment is expected to move from unorganised to organised market in future. “New players are exploring the opportunities in organised sector by taking over many unorganised companies. This will not only help them to establish their brand name in junior wear segment and but also move them towards the organised market,” Patca sums up.

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BRAND LEADER

Ruff ‘We need to constantly innovate to ensure growth’ The brand

Targeting the middle and upper middle class consumer who seeks fashion along with quality fabrics, D S Corporation the force behind Ruff, offers the best products to its customers. It is inspired by the diversity of youth culture with every garment denoting street smartness. “Denim being the king of Fashion everything revolves round it. Funky detailing, cool prints and bright colors are all you need to make a kid look cool. Right accessories like belts, caps, bags and cool badges make them ready to rock,” states Sohail Patca, Director. Catering to men/boys in the age group of 0 – 16 years, the products are distributed through major booking twice a year and fillers as per season. “Demand has grown 25 per cent. We are also present at all LFSs which in turn are growing at a rapid pace,” adds Patca.

reds, yellow and blue, a touch of florescence is seen in all these shades. Gold and bling are back in demand, especially on prints and embroideries. “We are also experimenting with new colors like violet, cobalt and a touch of green here-n-there for detailing. The colors for the bottom-wear have got dirtier with brighter shades like mustard brick-red, olives and military green.” Patca feels comfort as the keyword in fabrics. “Mill-made cotton tops the list of preferred fabrics,” he says. Poplins in various count and construction along with pre-washed knits make the best top-wear. It’s also a season of blends, as we are developing new fabrics which are better in terms of

Sohail Patca Director

Kid’s wear a competitive space

He views kids wear as a very competitive space in terms of design. “We have to deliver something new every time. It is our hardwork and dedication that has enabled us to reach a stage where we can be termed as a brand. But in spite of this, we need to constantly innovate to ensure growth,” he adds further. Kid’s -wear is more fun and vibrant. Trends are being followed and color combinations carefully chosen. “Even the slogans on a kids clothing, speaks of of their issues and matters close to their hearts. We develop textile prints especially for kids, denims of the right Oz and embroidery which are softer on skin. But most importantly, a whole new range of fits and patterns which makes our kids as smart as any other across the global,” he adds.

Colours and style

In addition to all-time favorites like zesty

look and durability. Finally it depends on how the garment is treated and finished at the washing stage which determines its look and feel.” Patca also laments that though knits are

one of the most comfortable and suitable fabrics for kids, they still occupy least space in Indian wardrobe. “The reason for this is availability and awareness. The masses still think knits end with a round neck T-shirt or the sweater we wear in winter, people still prefer to pick up a shirt instead of a T-shirt. But now, the scenario is changing, with growing fascination and excessive popularity and demand for fabrics in the metros,” he says. The entry of big national and international brands is likely transform the kids’ wear market and make it more organised. “Players will explore the opportunities in organized sector by taking over many unorganised companies which will help them to establish their brand name in junior wear.”

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BRAND LEADER

Toonz Retail ‘Denim bottoms have a larger market share because of their longer life cycle and utility’ everything from T-shirts, shirts, rompers, knit sets, top, skirts, party wear frocks, dresses, short ethnic dresses to towels, wraps, napkins, blankets, pillows, walkers, etc. “Our prices in the baby segment start from Rs 79 while in apparels they start from Rs 299 onwards,” adds Venkta.

The kidswear market

Sharad Venkta

Managing Director & CEO

Venkta points out, the kidswear market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 8 per cent by 2027. The total kids wear market is estimated to be around 13,000 crore, of which average denim wear market is around 10-12 per cent. “Seeing this potential, a lot of international brands have started entering India. Growing potential of e-commerce is also encouraging many players to foray into the sector,” he adds.

Emerging growth centres

Although, metros have maximum share of kids’ casual wear market, non-metros are also growing. Present in 65 cities, the core strength of Toonz Retail comes from the Tier II, III towns. “People from these areas are aspirational, prefer comfort clothing and seek quality products at affordable rates,” notes Venkta. Comfort and quality are the most important factors that parents’ consider while buying an outfit for their kids, he feels. “Trust towards local/existing kids’ wear brand also plays an important role. Besides, factors like price, occasion, colour, fabric, design & styles are key aspects that a parents looks into,” he says. There is usually greater demand and consumption of clothes in the boys category than the girls. However, quantity of clothes consumed is higher in girls. Boys, on the other hand emphasise more on value of their clothes.

Expansion plans

Leading brands are aggressively expanding their reach to Tier II and Tier III cities with a rise in disposable income along with an increase in the number of nuclear families, this has created immense potential for the growth of casual wear segment in India. “Though denim bottoms have a larger market share because of their longer life cycle and utility, casuals are consumed more due their comfort and everyday wear feature,” notes Venkta. Elaborating on his brand’s expansion plans, Venkta says, “India is a huge market to explore. We are expanding rapidly in other markets on a monthly basis. We are also trying to open speciality stores besides exploring unexplored cities.”

The brand

The latest collection from Toonz Retail focuses on kurta pajama, sherwani, waist coat for boys and ghagracholi, salwaarkameez, ponchos, layered dresses, anarkalis for girls. “We have also launched an Easy Wear range to address the issues faced by parents of trying to make their kids’ wear a particular outfit. Towards the end of this season, we will incorporate more red and black colors in our collection,” says Sharad Venkta, Managing Director & CEO of the brand. In its winter collection, the brands plans to focus on layered outfits such as sweatshirts and jackets that are lighter and keep the child warm. Its present product portfolio includes 39 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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style feature

About the brand :

A brand conscious in dressing people, Dare Fashion came into being in the year 1995 . The brand has introduced new core series in denim & cotton in smart look & smart fit. Their styling done is for smart people in simple designs in cool colours. Their style inspires smart people as it has simple design with cool colour . The brand owns it's own production unit with a production capacity of 6 lakh pieces an annum. The raw material is bought from the best of mills like Arvind and Raymonds. Mr. Dedhia feels that the online business has played a pivotal role in the slow down of business as the mid segment brand don't not go well with their discount system. They strongly believe in honest business. Dare Fashion has a strong pan India presence and has been doing very well.

Collection :

This season Dare Fashion has introduced a new range of denim & cotton trousers in smart look & smart fit. This season we have not we have not added any other segment as we want to focus only men's bottom wear only for the mid segment buyers. The colour used are more of English colours like fawn, ice cream colours which are light and sober. In denims we have used nearly all types of washes like stone, scrapping , spray etc.. Our price range is stable from last 6 year is MRP Rs. 999 to Rs.1999. There is always a huge ready to deliver ready stock with the brand.

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& e d r

r s .

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2, 3, 4, 5, 7, Giriraj Bldg., 1st Floor, Ram Tekdi, Tokersi Jivraj X Road, Sewree (W), Mumbai - 400015 Tel: 2417 0394, 2418 4581 / 82 / 83 Telefax: 2418 1070 E-mail: paresh@darejeans.com Visit us at: www.darejeans.com

Dare Fashion Pvt. Ltd.

BRAND LEADER

UFO ‘We try to offer as per customer demand at 40% lower prices than global brands’ The brand

Denim brand UFO caters to the fashion needs of kids. The brand recently introduced smart, international cut n sew garments. “We work with an in-house design team, to create a mood board, story board, colour board, look board for our different stories. These stories are finally executed into beautiful designs with the help of our design team,” notes Abhishek Agarwal, Managing Director of the brand. Constantly innovating its products to suit consumer’s needs, UFO uses innovative fabrics to create simple yet fashionable silhouettes. Buyers today like subtle fashion with modern designing, patchwork and prints etc. “We try to offer our customers whatever they demand at 40 per cent lower prices than other international brands,” adds Agarwal.

Kids market

The organised kids wear market in India has a lot of potential. “Kids outgrow clothes soon and a good product, priced appropriately can help a brand exploit the full potential of this segment,” adds Agarwal. The bigger market lies in the Tier II and II cities. Besides metros, non-metros are also growing as people here are getting used to buying branded clothes. They are also moving towards organised markets from the traditional unorganised markets new malls and other retail outlets in cities.

Retail opportunities

Abhishek Agarwal Managing Director

Offline retail is here to stay. However, online retail is emerging as a good alternative to reach the unexplored markets of India. “It will evolve overtime and be the future of retailing across the world,” he sums up.

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BRAND LEADER

Bodycare International ‘Our latest collection caters to the needs of today’s kids’ The brand

Incepted in 1992, Bodycare International is a leading player in kid’s innerwear, infant wear and thermal wear segments. The brand recently launched a diverse range of comfortable and quality innerwear with printed licensee character in various color combinations. “Our latest international collection featuring designer innerwear for boys and girls caters to the needs of today’s kids,” notes Mithun Gupta, Director.

Skin friendly designs and fabrics

Offering vests, briefs, trunks, panties, bloomers, boxers, T-shirts, lowers, capris, shorts, frocks and skirts, Bodycare International caters to kids in the age group of 0 to 14 years. Set up with an initial capital of Rs 2 lakh, the brand endorses the qualities of trust, quality and excellence. It emphasises on the comfort, fit and quality of the garment for kids. “We use vibrant designs, colors and characters,” explains Gupta. The fabrics too are organic and skin friendly. Gupta informs, “We mostly use 100 per cent soft cotton single jersey, Lycra sinker and rib fabrics to create our garments.” He says, denims with character prints for girls and boys and flashy T-shirts with detailed designing are some emerging trends in kids wear.

Multi-channel marketing

Bodycare International promotes its brand through a marketing mix of retail branding, outdoor publicity and advertisements in newspapers and on radio. “Participating in fairs and exhibitions also helps us to create a lot of buzz in the industry,” adds Gupta. The brand is a licensee of most popular cartoon characters who play a major role in attracting kids and influencing their purchasing decisions.

Wide range at affordable rates

Bodycare International always tries to offer premium products at affordable prices. “Since we have a wide range of products at various price points, it is not an issue for us to determine the same but we do take care of consumer expectations and competitors price point,” adds Gupta. The price range of the brand’s innerwear top or bottoms pack ranges between Rs 150 to Rs 550.

Mithun Gupta Director

Positive response to online ventures

Bodycare International started its online operations three years ago to promote products. The brand received a tremendous response to its online operations. “Our online presence has made consumers aware of our large product line,” adds Gupta. “The feedback from retailers and consumers make us the top priority brand for kids innerwear in India,” he signs off.

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DENIM FABRIC

Fabric

industry facing a mismatch in demand and supply india is one of the top denim fabric producers in the asia pacific region. Capacity has been increasing consistently though demand has not kept pace. this is putting pressure on manufacturers especially the small and mid level players, find out shubhangi Bidwe and ajay kumar Goswami enim has risen as the most preferred choice of Indians across age groups. With growing demand for denim apparels, fabric manufacturers have mushroomed with capacity being added. As Subir Mukherjee, Business Head, Bhaskar Denim says, “India has an installed capacity of about 1.7 billion meters in denim dying modules. Further about 200 million new capacity is in the pipeline. Actual production is around 1.1 billion meters. With a large capacity remaining un-utilized, new projects are likely to slowdown. Over last five years, installed capacity has grown at a CAGR of 15 per cent in India.” Agrees Ashish Agrawal, Group CEO, Kanoria Chemicals and Industries and adds “The denim fabric industry in India has been growing in a fast and consistent manner between 10 to 15 per cent per annum.”

Rise of casual wear driving denim demand One of the major factors driving the denim fabrics demand in India is the increasing demand for casual wear. “Kidswear has more or less shifted to denim. Women’s bottom wear segment too has boosted denim consumption in India. Its multiple usage, and conventional yet trendy appeal are some

• India has an installed capacity of about 1.7 billion meters in denim dying modules • Another 200 million new capacity is in the pipeline • Actual production is around 1.1 billion meters • In last five years, installed capacity has grown at a CAGR of 15 per cent • Current denim fabric market is dominated by men’s segment • Functional finishes like two-way stretches, moisture management, anti-microbial properties are in demand • India does not produce high end denim • GST and demonitisation have had a deep impact on denim fabric manufacturing of the major factors attracting consumers towards denim,” says Ravi Taparia, Sr Vice President, Sangam India. Currently, the denim fabric market is dominated by the men’s segment which contributes 60 per cent to the total Indian market. As Agarwal says, “India has about 55 denim fabric mills with a manufacturing capacity of 10 million meters per annum to 110 million meters per annum. Though the market is currently dominated by men’s wear, other segments are catching up fast. Almost 85 per cent of the market is dominated by men, with 10 per cent

comprise women segment and kids segment is about 5 per cent.” However, of late denim production has been more than demand which has created push situation rather than pull and all denim mills are going through a rough phase in India. And to add to this GST and demonetization has also impacted business.

Fabric innovations rule of day No more just a miner’s work wear, denim

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Subir Mukherjee

Business Head, Bhaskar Denim “India has an installed capacity of about 1.7 billion meters in denim dying modules. Further about 200 million new capacity is in the pipeline. Actual production is around 1.1 billion meters. With a large capacity remaining un-utilized, new projects are likely to slowdown. Over last five years, installed capacity has grown at a CAGR of 15 per cent in India.” today has become a fashion product with lot of innovations happening in the segment. Current denim trend for the domestic market is moving towards stretch with structured weaving. “Global brands are opting for stretch fabrics, light weight and dark shades. Recycle, cotton made in Africa, BCI cotton are few sustainable denims picking mostly in European market,” adds Agarwal. Functional finishes like two-way stretches, moisture management, antimicrobial properties are in demand. “The

concept of recycled denim is also picking up. The advent of social media and various fashion exhibitions have fuelled demand for international denim trends in India,” explains Paritosh Agarwal, Managing Director, Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills. “We can see new product avtars like cropped jeans, baggy jeans, straight leg jeans, detailing & embellishment jeans, etc. Denims also offers many functional benefits like water repellent apart from washes like cloud wash, towel wash, raisin process, etc” he adds.

Colored denim as an alternative to indigo Fabric trends in denim are also changing with brands like ETCO experimenting a lot on denim. The brand offers blends like cotton poly, dobbies, dobby mix, dobby poly etc. “We have knit denim, 2/1 cotton poly, cotton poly satin, cotton- cotton satin. Overdying, colored polly lycra and colored denim in all the ranges is available with us,” adds ETCO’s spokesperson. The brand is currently working on colored denim as the availability of indigo is poor and pricing is high. “Colored denim have emerged as an alternative to indigo but don’t know how long this trend will run. Mix and match garmenting in which garment will be half indigo and the other half in different color will be next big thing in fashion,” he notes. ETCO denim produces about 21 lakh meter denim fabric per month, out of which 5 lakh meter is exported to countries like Bangladesh, Peru, Columbia and South Korea etc. Lycra denim is more in demand in international markets. Elaborating on the current wash trends in denim, Agarwal says, “Selvedge, stone wash, waxed, acid wash, destroyed are latest wash trends making denim market hyperactive.” The brand’s denim collection is segmented

Ramesh Shah

CMD, ETCO “Colored denim has emerged as an alternative to indigo but don’t know how long this trend will run. Mix and match garmenting in which garment will be half indigo and the other half in different color will be next big thing in fashion.” as per consumer preferences in fashion or core. In fashion segment the brand offers the ‘Worn Out Collection, DX Collection, Backyard Collection, Miami collection’, while in core it offers the ‘Lusturous collection’. “We do tapered, narrow, slim and super skinny fit. Accessories and trims play a vital role as differentiator in denim, like contrast trims underneath, metal id for branding or logo, visible prints, etc,” he adds.

Technical expertise of Indian denim mills Technologically, India is equally or at par with any other denim fabric producers globally. With over 55 denim mills, recently denim production in India has created

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Paritosh Agarwal

Managing Director, Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills “The concept of recycled denim is also picking up. The advent of social media and various fashion exhibitions have fuelled demand for international denim trends in India,” a push rather than pull situation with all denim mills going through a rough phase. To add to this, GST and demonisation have impacted businesses As Agarwal notes, India dominates denim production in the Asia Pacific region. “About 75-85 per cent of the total denim production is consumed domestically,” adds Agarwal. The total denim fabric capacity worldwide is approx. 7.5 billion yards and is expected to touch 10.5 billion yards by 2021. China is the leading global denim fabric producer and

supplier producing around 2-2.5 billion yards of denim fabrics per annum. India lacks behind in producing high end denim. Only a couple of big manufacturers like Arvind and Raymond are known for high end denim fabrics. “The reason being, they have good infrastructure to support the production requirement. Mid category players are neither in a position nor do they get material to manufacture quality fabrics,” says ETCO’s spokesperson.

Demand-supply imbalance impacts prices The biggest challenge that India faces at the moment is demand supply imbalance in the market. “This imbalance is putting tremendous pressure on players in the mid segment as production and supplies are extremely high as compared to demand. This is increasing the prices of the incoming materials by 25 per cent thus burdening smaller players in the segments,” adds Agarwal. Demonetisation, GST and rising inputs costs are some other bug bears manufacturers list out. “For denim market, pricing is a challenge. Steep increase in input costs like cotton, indigo and chemical auxiliaries has pushed fabric prices higher. With many many players both domestic and international it is increasingly becoming difficult to get a price rise from buyers,” explains Paritosh Agarwal Challenges nothwitstanding, the per capita consumption of denim in India is expected

Ashish Agrawal

GCEO, Kanoria Chemicals & Industries “India has about 55 denim fabric mills with a manufacturing capacity of 10 million meters per annum to 110 million meters per annum. Though the market is currently dominated by men’s wear, other segments are catching up fast. Almost 85 per cent of the market is dominated by men, with 10 per cent comprise women segment and kids segment is about 5 per cent.” to grow from 0.8 per cent per annum per person to more than 1 per cent. “This in turn will fuel production of denim fabric in India,” Agarwal sums up.

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BRAND LEADER

Bhaskar Denim ‘Higher penetration in women’s wardrobe will trigger future growth’ The brand

Bhaskar Denim launches two seasonal collections every year; Spring/ Summer and Fall/Winter. With an installed capacity of 44 million meters Bhaskar Denim supplies fabric to most leading global brands such as Wrangler, Levi’s, etc. “We focus on super-stretch and indigo top structures with specialty prints. Implanting sustainability in our products and process is also focused upon,” points out Subir Mukherjee, BusinessHead. “Some of our international customers are engaged in garment conversion in India while we export fabric to many brands which is converted into garments and eventually imported back to India,” he adds.

Growth triggers

Growth in Indian denim market is fuelled by domestic demand, mostly men’s segment. Investment in India over last 5-7 years was more towards building capacity and negligible towards advanced processes. “The Indian denim industry is in a nascent stage. Its biggest strength is a large domestic market and the availability of cotton. However, we are at a relatively lower level of technical learning curve,” Mukherjee explains. Domestic consumption of denim is expected to continue for next few years. This is fuelling demand for denim fabric in India with the import of this fabric from Bangladesh under bilateral treaty increasing. “However, this denim fabric import fabric is not a serious threat to the current import duty structure. What will trigger next growth is higher penetration in women’s wardrobe,” he opines.

Subir Mukherjee Business Head

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BRAND LEADER

Suryalakshmi ‘The concept of recycled denim is also picking up strongly’ The brand

Paritosh Agarwal Managing Director

A pioneer in developing innovative products, Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills plans to increase its export volumes to 75 per cent and volume in the domestic market to 25 per cent. Its product portfolio includes varieties of denims ranging from light weight fabrics from 5 oz to 15 ozs/ sq. yd. “Our color pallet includes a variety of indigo, black, derivatives of different combination and cast of sulphur colors,” says Paritosh Agarwal, Managing Director of the company. The company also makes high-end value additions in finishing, fiber blends, functional denims like coolmax, toughmax, anti-microbial, moisture management fabrics, etc. “Similarly different weaves likes knits and dobby are also included in our fabric range,” adds Agarwal.

The collections

Product development being an ongoing process, Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills follows two seasons every year. “We do a lot of research before launching a new collection. Inputs from customers, brands and suppliers are collectively analysed while designing any new product,” he states. Suryalakshmi Cotton Mills supplies to brands such as Pepe Jeans, Peter England, Flying Machine, Killer, Spykar, Pantaloons, Trends, Max, Mufti Jeans, Jack and Jones, Only , Vero Moda , Myntra, Flipkart etc. Its exports are targeted towards international brands

such as Lee , Wrangler, Levi’s , JCPenny, Walmart, Matalan, NEXT etc. The current installed capacity of denim production in India is around 1,500 million meters per annum. “It is growing at roughly 10 to 12 per cent per year,” notes Agarwal further adding that “the last couple of years been multifold increase in total capacity.”

Trends and styles

Internationally, denim is considered the trendiest wear and designer’s favorite as it offers versatility in styling and washing. “Functional finishes like two-way stretches, and denims with moisture management, anti-microbial properties are in demand. The concept of recycled denim is also picking up strongly,” adds Agarwal With the advent of social media and various fashion exhibitions, India too is picking up fast and is at par with International denim trends. In the domestic markets, still knits, variant of knits with value additions are the latest trends. Whereas in international markets high stretch and comfort stretch, vintage and subtle look denims with more flexible wash options are in demand. “Technologically, India is on par with any other denim fabric producers globally,” states Agarwal. “However, the cost factor influences purchase decisions of buyers. Awareness among buyers about high end fashion also poses a challenge, especially in Indian market,” he laments.

Price issues

As per studies reports, per capita consumption of a pair of jeans in India is expected to grow from 0.8 jeans per annum per person to above one. This in turn expected to increase fabric and garment productions in India. Pricing is a challenge for the overall denim market Steep increase in input cost like cotton, Indigo and chemical auxiliaries has pushed fabric price higher. “With increasing competitors in India and abroad, it is becoming difficult to get the price rise from buyers,” adds Agarwal.

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BRAND LEADER

ETCO Denim ‘We aim to be world’s best denim manufacturer by 2020’

Ramesh Shah

Chairman and Managing Director

The brand

One of India’s leading integrated denim fabric manufacturer, ETCO Denims offers premium quality denim fabric for private labels and retail chains with cutting-edge design and latest spinning technology. The company produces about 21 lakh meters of denim fabric every month. Of this, five lakh meters are exported to countries like Bangladesh, Peru, Columbia and South Korea, etc. In fact, ETCO Denim aims to be the world’s best denim manufacturer by 2020, through cost-effective processes, innovation and customer focus. Shortage of indigo color and high price led to ETCO Denim introducing range of sulphur colored denim as an alternative.

“Now it’s time for colored denim. Mix and match fancy produced from Indigo blue with different caste and different range of colored garmenting in which the garment is indigo and other color. This is going to be the next big trend in fashion,” says Ramesh Shah, Chairman and Managing Director, ETCO Denim.

Currently, a large portion of the Indian denim market is dominated by men’s segment which contributes 60 per cent to the total market, ladies segment, on the other hand, contributes 25 per cent and kids’ makes up 15 per cent. Players who are active in ladies segment also offer kids’ denim.

Fabric innovations

Vinod Gupta, AVP of ETCO Denim notes the brand experiments a lot with its fabrics. “We offer blends like cotton poly, dobbies, dobby mix, dobby poly, etc. We also have knit denim, 2/1 cotton poly, cotton poly satin, cotton twill - cotton satin. Overdyeing, colored poly Lycra and colored denim in all ranges are also available with us,” he says. Gupta says , “Mid category players are neither in a position nor do they get material to make high quality fabrics. Lack of good

Shah believes demonetisation and GST deteriorated the plight of companies already struggling with profit issues. “Cost of productivity has increased while payments are not on time. A lot of garmenting work has been outsourced to countries like Bangladesh. Though export is turning profitable with the rupee being at all an time low, excessive supply, huge price pressures, competition and rising raw material prices are impacting the industry badly. Good infrastructure and processing units are

infrastructural support is the major reason for this,” he says.

the need of the hour if we want the denim industry to grow,” adds Shah.

Popularity in urban and rural markets spurs growth

The biggest challenge is demand-supply imbalance, resulting in huge pressure on margins of small players who make economical denim. “The price of raw materials have increased by 20 to 25 per cent in recent times, burdening small players more. Businesses have not been sustainable owing to incremental chemical cotton. Small players are facing infrastructural issues too,” he notes.

India’s denim segment is growing at a CAGR of 8 to 10 per cent, as denim is popular in both urban and rural markets. “Stretch denim for women’s and kids is growing rapidly by developing innovative stretches and different kind of washes with different colors and soft feel. The entry of new players is increasing pressure for higher productivity on the industry,” adds Gupta. Circular knitted, bi-stretch soft feel super stretch denim, used to make T-shirts and ladies wear, will be the further new innovation in this segment,” adds Gupta.

Challenges facing the segment

Holding a pessimistic view of the future, Shah warns, “upcoming time might be worse if this trend continues to add new capacity.”

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BRAND LEADER ravi taparia

sr vice president (exports)

Sangam India ‘Consumption of denim will steadily increase’ The brand

With a manufacturing capacity of four million meters per month, Sangam India develops a new product every three weeks. The brand offers innovative light weight fancy denims in exotic fibers. Nearly 70 per cent of its products are consumed by the domestic market, and the remaining 30 per cent is exported.

Festive season drives demand

“Our product inputs are based on market demand and future trends given by designers,” notes Ravi Taparia, Sr Vice President (Exports). Complete input for a product includes information on its blends and colour hues. “Comfort factor is added by us,” adds Taparia. Taparia points out, “Nearly 60 per cent of denim produced by us are consumed within the country as due to its expansion in traditional garments as well. With higher

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demand for casual wear, demand for denim fabric has got a boost in India. Kidswear has more or less shifted to denim. Durability and trendy look are major factors attracting consumers towards denim.”

Stretch denim gains popularity

With more emphasis on comfort use of usage denim has grown. “Heavy weight rugged denim is giving way to stretch fabrics. Sulphur colours have made some place for themselves. The over dyed fabric/ garment are popular and it adds a variety to the colour scheme,” adds Arora. Leading global denim suppliers are: China, India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, Thailand and Vietnam. “The fastest moving varieties are knit designs for men and women. The consumption of denim will steadily increase as it is becoming daily wear for a major part of our population,” adds Arora.

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ORGANISER

BRAND LEADER

OR GA NI SI NG P A R T NER

www.DFUpublications.com

www.FashionatingWorld.com

India and Global Fashion Communication Channels

M.P.Unit MUMBAI UNIT

P R I NC I P A L A SSOC I A T E

Confederation of Indian Textile Industry

CONFERENCE 2019 DHAKA Fibres • Yarns • Fabrics • Textile Machinery & Technology • Chemicals • Dyes • Softwares • Garments • Brands & Fashion

September 20-21, 2019, Radisson Blu, Dhaka, Bangladesh

Conference n CEO Conclaves n Expo/Showcase n B2B Meetings n Factory Visits

BANGLADESH: VISION 2022

GEARING UP FOR NEW GENERATI N TEXTILES Bangladesh, the hotspot for global growth, for the first time ever, holds a two day global conference and forum for interactions and discussions of potential partnerships between gathering of over 500 decision makers as buyers and sellers along the supply chain. PROGRAMME HIGHLIGHTS WHAT’S NEXT FOR BANGLADESH: ROADMAP FOR GROWTH BANGLADESH READY FOR NEW GENERATION TEXTILES: SYNTHETICS FIBRES, YARNS & SUPPLY CHAIN BUSINESS OF BRANDS: CHANGING DYNAMICS OF SOURCING NEW PRODUCTS: ATHLEISURE, ACTIVEWEAR & SPORTSWEAR DENIMS & JEANSWEAR : THE PREMIUM PRODUCT BECOMES THE FOCUS WORLD OF COTTON & BEYOND: FIBRE, YARNS & SUPPLY CHAIN TECHNOLOGY UPGRADATION: TEXTILE 4.0 & APPAREL 4.0 SUSTAINABILITY: THE ROLE OF RAW MATERIAL AND DYES, CHEMICALS COMPLIANCE: BEST & FAIR PRACTICES ALONG THE SUPPLY CHAIN

INDIA-BANGLADESH FORUM supported By

Bangladesh Cotton Associations

Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers & Exporters Association

Bangladesh Knitswear Manufacturers & Exporters Association

Bangladesh Indenting Agents’ Association

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CASUALS

Men’s casual wear market spins on full throttle men’s wear segment has undergone rapid growth with a change in work culture, especially in mnC’s with a relaxation in dress codes. this has given a huge boost to casual wear segment in india. Brands are responding to this change by adding a range of casual wear in the product basket to meet every taste, write ajanta Ganguly and ajay kumar Goswami ith Indian men steadily stepping up their fashion quotient, men’s casual wear has done a complete turnaround. Men are also now experimenting a lot with colours and new styles in pastels, floral and abstract design products have started selling well. The rise of new generation work environments and shopping made easy through malls and e-commerce trading has led to double digit growth in men’s casual segment. Denim wear and shirt are the two categories in the casual wear space that have been clocking in double digit growth every year. Denim has always been a high growth category because it’s both trendy and comfortable.

Style trends taking on a new shape As per analysts estimate men’s wear market in India was around Rs 1,24,423

• Casual wear market has seen good growth • Most men’s brands are adding casual wear to the product basket • Innovations is the key to stay ahead in this competitive market • Both global and Indian brands are spreading out their casual segment • Brands playing with a variety of fabrics, style, colours in casual wear crore in 2016 and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 9 per cent to reach Rs 2,95,795 by 2026. Owing to the gradual perception of a younger and fitter India, the men’s apparel segment of casual wear such as denims, active wear and T-shirts/polo’s are growing at a much faster CAGR of 14 per cent, 14 per cent and 12 per cent respectively. The entire market in India is becoming causal and is greatly influenced by sportswear while the global markets are run by fashion casuals. And that is the difference between India’s and international casual wear markets. The earlier divisions of fashion have changed

and there is lots of innovation in fabrics and designs. Although most menswear brands are strong in formals but are looking at casual in a big way as it has lots of potential. “When a brand launches its creation exclusively to its audience, they just change the designs and not the category. It’s the creativity, which works for the brand. For example, our A/W ’18 collection was divided into: Mainline, Urban and Casual, further focusing on the free spirited men above 35, 25 to25 and 18 to 25 respectively. Mainline collection includes the convertibles like jackets and belts. For the Urban and

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punchy colors, and vintage sepia tones,’’ explains Bobby Arora, Director of Status Quo, a leading apparel brand. European brand Celio focuses on smart casuals, weekend casuals and jeans in its product portfolio for India. The product offering can be classified into four main groups: Free Urban, Smart and Essentials. “As menswear turns green, we are proud to announce that our casual wear brand Z3 Relaxed Luxury is manufactured in a completely eco–friendly process. Created with an eye on the environment and a heart that beats for Mother Earth, our brand is now setting a new benchmark in the industry by going green. Around 92 per cent of water used in manufacturing of our products is recycled. The heat from the same recycled water is then extracted for use in manufacturing thereby reducing the carbon footprint. With our Zero Liquid Discharge process, we ensure we do not pollute the environment with effluents. Our HIGG Index Rating that is among the best in the industry,’’ points out Salman Noorani, MD of Zodiac Clothing Company.

Growth triggers for men’s casual category As menswear becomes more trendy and demanding, consumers seek innovations and differentiation in what they buy. Innovation across different product categories coupled with creativity and exclusivity has transformed the retail industry. With blurring boundaries of casual wear at work on normal office days as well as functionality driven fabrics and garments for comfort taking the lead in men’s dressing, a whole new

Abhishek Shetty

Casuale collection, we emphasised on the fun side of design, blending technology and art in our collections for them,’’ says Ramesh Kaushik, VP, Brand Experience of the Blackberrys brand. Blackberrys Casuale, is a smart-casual brand for men, with wardrobe essentials for work, leisure and outdoor. The portfolio offers shirts, casual trousers, blazers, jackets, polos and t-shirts. “Creative slogan typography leads among design trends. Colour pigments are pulled

stretched pixelated and distorted. Dark and moody tropical jungle inspired prints featured heavily in 2018. Digital and DIY collages emerge as a strong T-shirt trend, collating a mismatch of imagery for a surreal playful aesthetic. Multi coloured polo’s, cut and sews are very much in trend. Big checks are in trend, similarly camouflage & polka dot is also a new concept. The collections comprise of sport, camouflage, and travel. We have played with monochromatic colors,

Head of Marketing, PR & Loyalty, Celio “Factors including a growing middle class population, rising disposable income, increasing brand awareness ensure promising future for the casual wear segment. There is also a huge scope for product innovation as consumers are increasingly looking for a combination of technology and great product.”

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segment is opening up. Basic casual wear is also having statement elements in terms of fabrics and trims and multi-occasion wear is well accepted as travel has become a part of corporate lifestyle. Mix and match pattern, inspired from the retro look comes in different ways every season. With about 60 per cent of India’s population below the 35 years, rising disposable incomes and a well-travelled sizeable number of consumers group living Tier-I, II cities, the concept of fast fashion has managed to make its mark quite strongly in India. “Celio personifies the best of global fashion and trends. India is the fastest growing market for the brand globally clocking in high double digit growth year on year. The brand stands for high-quality fast fashion offered at sharp price points, making it an attractive value proposition for today’s discerning male consumer. This has also helped us garner a huge fan base from conventional style seekers while also appealing to the progressive consumers. The collections are launched simultaneously in India and other parts of the world thereby, giving the Indian consumers the best of global fashion,” says Abhishek Shetty, Head of Marketing, PR & Loyalty, Celio. He says there is a lot of scope for increasing the penetration of casual wear in the rural pockets of India. “Factors including a growing middle class population, rising disposable income, increasing brand

Shitanshu Jhunjhunwalla

Director, Turtle “The semi-formal and casual range have increased their stretch. And this change is for the long run. Consumer has become smarter and they understand fashion. And mix and match is the key. This shift gives brands, more space to play in terms of design, styling and creating the overall collection for a season. Both semi-casual and semiformal shirts have a crossover connotation. They are like ‘Friday Dressing’ with fashion elements.”

awareness ensure promising future for the casual wear segment. There is also a huge scope for product innovation as consumers are increasingly looking for a combination of technology and great product design,” he says. There has been a paradigm shift from formal to semi-formals with casuals taking upper hand in all social settings. Brands are making conscious efforts to have a relaxed approach with styling and trims. In the premium segment of special occasion wear, there has been a marked shift from the unorganized and made-to-order tailored outfits to organized readymade outfits, where men are buying from the large variety retailers have to offer. This is where domestic brands cash in as international brands do not specifically cater to the occasion wear segment, where the requirements are extremely specific in terms of colors, cuts and textures. “The semi-formal and casual range have increased their stretch. And this change is for the long run. Consumer has become smarter and they understand fashion. And mix and match is the key. This shift gives brands, more space to play in terms of design, styling and creating the overall collection for a season. Both semi-casual and semi-formal shirts have a crossover connotation. They are like ‘Friday Dressing’ with fashion elements. Their color palette is mixed with sober to fun colors. Designs

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Ramesh Kaushik

VP, Brand Experience, Blackberrys “Our recent collection was divided into: Mainline, Urban and Casual, further focusing on the free spirited men above 35, 25 to25 and 18 to 25 respectively. Mainline collection includes the convertibles like jackets and belts. For the Urban and Casuale collection, we emphasised on the fun side of design, blending technology and art in our collections for them.” are subtle. In contrast, casual and formal clothing is specific to their genres. Casual color palette is bright, outgoing with various cuts and patterns. Semi-formal and casual clothes overlap to an extent. The difference is created in terms of design pattern, styling, color and trims. Semi-casual shirts are muted colors and styling vis-a-vis casual shirts,’’ observes Shitanshu Jhunjhunwalla, Director, Turtle.

Innovations increase brand USP The men’s wear segment has witnessed rapid growth with a change in work culture, especially in major MNC’s with a relaxation in dress codes. International brands like Tommy Hilfiger and Espirit have seen steady growth over the years in their casual wear segment. Other brands such as Calvin Klein and Guess are increasing their footprints in this segment. Even premium brands such as Mango, Zara and Arrow have introduced casual wear at the entry level to attract first time consumers. New product lines of different brands are experimenting with fabrics to give a better look and feel, in terms of fabric, using Indigo Tencel, modal, cottons and poly cottons in trendy colours for shirts and T-shirts. India is a growing market due to new generation with high disposal incomes and shift from tailor made garments to ready to wear. “We deal in casuals which are completely different from what is available in the market. Two elements bring that differentiation: range is quality–oriented; second it is more of a tailored version of casuals which are known as business casuals. Technically, we

deal in business casuals that are defined by high quality fabrics, new age blends and well-tailored with functionality aspect strongly attached to it. Besides, we will have even wrinkle –free casuals. We as a brand are always sharp right from the collar of a shirt to the bottom of a trouser. We are not loud, washed or broken down casuals like the rest of the market. We don’t and will not have anything like distressed casuals. So the bottomline is we have casuals with a lot of comfort, quality, functionality, subtlety and can be worn for corporate as well as for other occasions,” highlights Saikat Mitra, Spokesperson, Van Heusen. “Our collection includes T-shirts, smart casual shirts and a crisp line of chinos, sweaters and sweatshirts for men. Indian market is full of new brands and many new international labels but many have faded away and have existed not because of the product line rather because of the strategy of being placed in Tier I cities like Mumbai, Bangalore and Delhi and not exploring the possibilities of Tier II, III cities, which are also potential markets. We have a pan India presence with large format stores and MBO’s in over 200 cities and are also catering to the potential markets in Tier-II and III cities,” reveals Kapil Khorana, Head (Product and Merchandising) of Taanz. The brand is available at all leading fashion portals like Amazon, Myntra, Jabong and Flipkart among others, which is helping them reach new customer base. “We target opening 20 to 25 exclusive store by March 2019 to broaden our reach,” he says. A growing fashion consciousness and aspiration beliefs, higher disposable income, increasing penetration of global brands, and acceptance of specialised clothing with high-tech features across the metros and smaller cities has changed men’s perception of dressing. Having India is primarily a shirt wearing country and with brands fighting over each other with their portfolios of casual wear, work wear and formal wear, it is one of the highest demand segment in the men’s fashion industry.

Saikat Mitra

Van Heusen “We deal in casuals which are completely different from what is available in the market. Two elements bring that differentiation: range is quality– oriented; second it is more of a tailored version of casuals which are known as business casuals. Technically, we deal in business casuals that are defined by high quality fabrics, new age blends and well-tailored with functionality aspect strongly attached to it” 55 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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BRAND LEADER Saikat Mitra

Creative Director

The brand

Van Heusen ‘Two elements distinguish our collection from others: quality and customisation’

Van Heusen is one of India’s top brands in the formal wear segment. For long, the brand has been using technology to deliver comfort and style. Its parent company Phillips Van Heusen Corporation is known as the largest shirt manufacturer with brands like Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Arrow, among others under its umbrella. These brands are known for their formalwear and casual wear.

The collection

Talking about its offerings in India, Saikat Mitra, Creative Director of Van Heusen says, “Our casualwear is completely different from whatever is available in the market. Two elements distinguish our collection from others: quality and customisation.” Van Heusen mainly offers business casuals defined by high quality fabrics, new age blends and customised, functional designs. Besides, it also offers wrinkle-free casuals. “Our range is European in nature as it is sharper, more premium, and neat and clean looking. We don’t offer distressed casuals, neither do we plan to. Our casuals offer comfort, quality, functionality, subtlety and can be worn for corporate as well as for other occasions,” adds Mitra. Van Heusen uses good quality fabrics, cuts and fits for its collection. The brand’s clothes are more comfortable, colorful with checkered designs. “Our clothes are relaxed and in sync with today’s working culture,” Mitra explains. “We mainly offer business casuals with blazers being the most preferred choice. We also offer blazers for women,” he adds. Van Heusen also tailors jeans in a way that it is perfect for office work as well as outdoor activities. The jeans have a four way stretch comfort that is good for long sittings. The knees recovery is also much better than other available in the market.

The casual wear market

Earlier men would wear a nice formal shirt, suit with a tie to work but now they prefer a premium casual shirt with denims and a belt, Saikat points out. Women, on the other hand, prefer ethnic wears like kurtis, fusion wear, etc for everyday dressing. “Casualisation of wardrobes is happening in India which makes the future of casual wear category really bright,” notes Mitra. “The market is heavily influenced by sportswear with the entry of global fashion retail chains,” he adds. The trend of athliesure wear is catching up fast as people are increasingly becoming fitness conscious. “In India, most athleisure brands have caught up this trend by launching latest range of athleisure wear. We have also successfully launched our range of athleisurewear,” Mitra sums up. 56 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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BRAND LEADER

Celio ‘Consumers are seeking innovative technologies with great product design’ Categories like denim and shirts are growing at double digits y-o. “Denim is a high growth category. India being a shirts country, the shirts category is also witnessing tremendous response from the consumers,” states Shetty. Shetty feels, consumers do not just seek utility anymore but yearn to express themselves with their sense of fashion. They experiment with colors including pastel, floral and abstract design products. The monochrome look, which has been a strong trend since 2017, is likely to dominate in future also.

Young consumers drive demand

The brand

Embodying high-quality and effortless French fashion, Celio offers formals, casuals, jeans and accessories for men. “In India, we focus on smart casuals, weekend casuals and jeans,” says Abhishek Shetty, Head-Marketing, PR and Loyalty. “Our offerings can be classified into four main groups: Free, Urban, Smart and Essentials.” The denim and sportswear range Free offers products like T-shirts, bermudas cargos and outdoor wears, while the Urban range offers a smart, casual and chic collection including linen shirts and bottomwear, clean jeans, smart polos, chinos, leather and faux leather jackets, etc. The smart range, on the other hand, offers business and work essentials with a twist. The range includes leaner shirts, business jackets and some bottomwear. In the essentials range Celio offers a wide selection of well priced basics such as polos, plain tees, etc.

Around 60 per cent of India’s population is below 35 years. “This, along with rising disposable income makes this audience one of being spenders in fashion. As a sizeable number of this audience lives in Tier-I and II cities and are well travelled, they have a more evolved understanding of fashion,” he adds. While India is becoming more casual at workplaces, people are also becoming more fashionable, leading to the rise of athleisure. “As of now, growth in this segment has been moderate. However, this is likely to change drastically in the next few years with the advent of more global brands and local brands launching innovations,” Shetty opines.

Increased scope in the rural markets

There is a lot of scope for increasing penetration of casual wear in India’s rural

Abhishek Shetty

Head-Marketing, PR & Loyalty pockets. Factors like growing middle class population, rising disposable income, increasing brand awareness ensure a promising future for casual wear segment. “Also, there is a huge scope for product innovations as consumers are seeking more innovative technologies with great product design,” he adds. Having completed 10 years of operations in India, Celio has managed to expand aggressively in the past few years. The brand currently operates from over 300 sales channels in 92 cities. Additionally, it is also present on most major ecommerce channels such as Myntra, Jabong, Amazon, Flipkart, etc. “We now plan to penetrate deeper into our current cities besides entering new ones,” Shetty signs off.

Increasing fashion sense, rising incomes drive growth

India’s menswear market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 9 per cent to reach Rs 2,95,795 by 2026. Owing to the gradual shift towards casual wear, denim, activewear and T-shirts/ polo categories are growing at a much faster CAGR of 14 per cent, 14 per cent and 12 per cent respectively. “This is due to growing fashion consciousness, higher disposable incomes, increasing number of brands and the acceptance of specialised clothing with features such as odour resistant jeans etc., not just in metros but also in Tier-I and II cities,” notes Shetty. “New age work environments and tech industries are breaking free from the norm of adhering to Monday to Friday work uniform and casual clothes on weekends. In addition, ecommerce has made it easy for many vanity conscious men to stay fashionable,” he adds. 57 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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BRAND LEADER

Turtle ‘We offer fashion at pocket-friendly prices’ The Brand

Shitanshu Jhunjhunwalla Director

From a company primarily focused on men’s readymade shirts, Turtle has evolved into a leading brand in menswear fashion. The brand, which started with a production capacity of just 20 shirts a day, today has an exhaustive in-house retail unit catering to more than 100 exclusive stores and 1200 multi-brand outlets across the country. With trendsetting fashion and redefining styles, its two iconic brands - Turtle and London Bridge -- have become the most preferred amongst men who wish to make a fashion statement. “We follow the philosophy of offering fashion at pocket friendly price,” says Shitanshu Jhunjhunwalla. The brand positioning is on Sec A/B and the age group of 21 to 50 years. The brand has received numerous awards.

A complete men’s wear brand

Turtle began its journey by manufacturing shirts and over the last 25 years has evolved into a men’s wardrobe brand offering everything except innerwear. “We launch two collections a year: spring/summer and festive/winter wear,” informs Jhunjhunwala. “We have a direct approach towards brand communication. We plan to showcase our products more and make our consumers aware of our offerings, For this, we use both ATL/BTL and digital strategy.”

Speaking about the growing popularity of casual clothing he says “This change is visible as brands are making conscious efforts to have a relaxed approach with styling and trims. The semi-formal and casual ranges have increased their stretch. This shift is giving brands, more space to play with design, styling and creating an overall collection for the season.” Major demand for casual wear is in the age group 25 to 40 years. “This group majorly contributes towards consumption and shopping of our products,” he says.

Styles and colors

The brand’s current style trends include a lot of textured base with rich evening wear colors. “People are experimenting with colors. They are restricting their styling details to minimal. Cuts are also becoming sharper. Jackets with subtle microscopic prints are doing well. Our style statement for the season is ‘detachables’. So a jacket or a suit with detachable waistcoat, lapel and scarves are in trend.

Future plans

Turtle plans to increase its presence in East India and be available at all leading stores across the region. “Our vision is to provide the best in fashion and quality at affordable rates,” sums up Jhunjhunwala.

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BRAND LEADER

Classic Polo “We will specially focus on denims to scale up our contribution to this growing category’ The Brand

A casual wear brand, Classic Polo offers formal shirts and trousers, and denims for youngsters. The brand offers the best merchandise and service to existing customer base through its innovative designs and right distribution network. “We adopt equal growth strategy for both for both online and offline formats while our marketing and promotion strategies are customised according to customer’s purchasing behavior,” notes Usha Periasamy, Director (Operations and Brand). It is aggressively expanding into Tier II and III cities.

Current trends

As per Periasamy current trends in casual wear include smart fit shirts and trousers, knitted shirts. “Denim shirts and tees in micro prints are in trend. Linen are in fashion while joggers are gaining momentum among youth. “The final product has to appeal customers who don’t really understand the technicality behind the fabric and wash to a large extent,” says Periasamy. As millennials are well exposed and heavily influenced by the Western lifestyle and culture, many international brands are spreading their wings in India.

Retail presence

She believes every retail format has its own advantage and disadvantage, it is upto the brand to study and come up with its own strategy for a win-win position of brand the right product and price mix. All three formats are essential for any national brand to make the best of brand business. Classic Polo has over 120 EBOs, 300 large format stores and 3,000 MBOs across India. Going forward, India’s online retail is

expected to touch $100 billion by 2020, out of which $35 billion will come from fashion e-commerce. This clearly implies that online apparel sales are set to grow four times in the next five years and will contribute significantly to the burgeoning online business growth. Customers are bombarded with so many promotions/launches/ advertisements on their handset that they are subconsciously getting habituated to explore and experiment online buying. “Massive discounts are driving customers to dig more into the data resulting in a favorable sale sooner or later. E-tailers are adopting innovative strategies to cater to the unique need and preferences of tech-savvy population. Every brand has adopted the digital disruption to provide consumers more influential products and services and Classic Polo is no exception,” states Periasamy. As the brand is exposed to a tech/net savvy population, its online operations are growing rapidly.

Usha Periasamy

Director (Operations and Brand)

Future plans

Classic Polo has set an ambitious target of growing 25 per cent over last year. It also aims to expand its franchise stores apart from growing its woven range with a renovated range of merchandise from forthcoming season. The brand will launch value added hi-end fashion across all formats thereby improve the innovative quotient of the brand. It is also developing on new line extensions like athleisure. “We will specially focus on denims to scale up our contribution to this dynamically growing category. We are also launching our CP BRO exclusive stores which will add to our overall brand business from RCG.”

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BRAND LEADER

Status Quo ‘The casual wear market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 10 percent.” The brand

Adhering to its style statement, ‘Be The Real You’, Status Quo recently launched a new apparel collection based on ‘Game of Thrones’ besides introducing an exclusive travelers collection consisting of four way T-shirts, joggers and jackets which has a head phone, proper space for keeping the passport, Ipad etc also when you plan to take a nap it has an eye mask.

Current styles and trends

Bobby Arora Director

“Classic styling with continuous innovation gives us an added advantage over others,” notes Bobby Arora, Director, of the brand. “Youth today is looking for more fashionable and unique trendy apparels as the social media platform has opened new gateway to inspire the fashion world,” he adds. The current design trend is dominated by creative slogan typography. Colour pigments are pulled stretched pixelated and distorted. “We play with monochromatic, punchy colors, and vintage sepia tones in our colections,” adds Agarwal Digital and DIY collages are emerging as a strong trend in T-shirts. Multi coloured polo’s, cut and sews are also in demand as are big checks. “Similarly, camouflage & polka dot are attracting a wide attention from buyers,” he observes.

Men’s casual wear market

India’s men’s wear market is approximately Rs 150,000 crore, casual wear constitutes approximately 30 per cent of this. “The market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 10 percent. The most saleable product in

casual wear category is T-shirts as it’s a part of everyone’s daily wardrobe,” adds Agarwal. Consumers in the age group 16 to 35 years are driving growth in this sector. Agarwal feels, building a brand is always a challenge. “However, now we are focused on creating a knitwear specialty brand which gives us a unique positioning in the market among other players. Our success mantra is deliver the right product at right time and right price.”

Athleisure opportunity

Popularity of athleisure has led many retailers and brands to unveil their own collections Status Quo is working towards showcasing a complete collection for Spring/Summer 2019. “We are aware of the potential of athleisure segment and plan to launch a separate vertical soon,” adds Agarwal

Retail footprint

Status Quo is available through over 1,200 MBOs across the country and has a presence in all large format stores like Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Lulu and Central with 160 touch points. It also retails through Amazon, Flipkart, Myntra, Jabong, Snapdeal, Tata Cliq, Paytm and customers can also shop at www.statusquo.in. “From our current 20 shop in shops, we plan to increase to75 shop in shops by end of this year. We also plan to expand into EBOs early next year. Besides, we are exploring newer markets like Bihar, Jharkhand, Uttrakhand, Kerala, Himachal Pradesh and Jammu & Kashmir,” Agarwal sums up.

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BRAND LEADER

Lifestyle International ‘We plan to open one store per month for the next two years’ New collections

“With ease of availability of international trends across multiple platforms, women’s wear is one of the fastest growing categories in the retail industry,” opines Vasanth Kumar, Managing Director, Lifestyle International. The brand recently launched Kooltex range from Kappa made from a quick drying fabric that wicks away moisture and keeps you cool. “Its fiber finish maintains durability regardless of the number of washes. The range is made from a skin-friendly fabric with no chemicals added to attain the finish,” Kumar informs. The brand has also introduced Lyocell, a sustainable fabric and Liva which is made from natural fibers and renders fluidity to the apparel.

Social media boosts fashion quotient

According to Kumar key fashion trends dominating today include stripes, polkas, colorful checks, florals, rich jewel tones, dramatic sleeves such as balloon, trumpet, dolman etc. Tie-ups, either in the form of dress or tops are also likely to be back in fashion. “Consumers are no longer oblivious to latest trends. This change is because of smartphones and an easy access to the internet. Increasing use of fashion apps, influencers and social media platforms like Facebook & Instagram have also created a fashion presence that can no longer be ignored,” he explains. Kumar believes the women’s wear segment

in India has transformed in the past decade. And a key growth driver is rising affluence and an increase in disposable incomes. “Adding to this is a mix of aspiration and accessibility, which enables the segment to grow in double-digits,” he adds.

Combining fashion with fitness

Elaborating on the athleisure market Kumar says, “Athleisure is not only emerging as a trend in the globally but has also gained a lot of popularity among Indian millennials also. The trend combines two of the most popular phenomena of our time -- fitness and fashion. The sheer versatility of the trend and its high fashion quotient makes it relevant across usage occasions with a new market and innovations in styles and designs.”

Vasanth Kumar Managing Director

Being a fashion outpost for the youth, Lifestyle International ensures consumers get the best of athleisure through curated collections and the best of brands. Currently, their brands like Kappa, Forca, Ginger, UCLA and Bossini among others offer anxtensive athleisure collection for both men and women that comprises the latest trends of the season. A true omni-channel player, Lifestyle has a country-wide presence across 44 cities with 77 stores and an online store, lifestylstores. com where customers can shop from the convenience of their home. “The brand now plans to open approximately one store per month for the next two years.”

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BRAND LEADER

Blackberrys ‘We plan to set up 100 EBOs across India’ The brand

Ramesh Kaushik

Vice President-Brand Experience

A smart-casual brand for men, Blackberrys offers shirts, casual trousers, blazers, jackets, polos and t-shirts. The brand, since its inception in 1991, has invented and reinvented the paradigms of success through wardrobe solutions that fulfils the fashion lifestyle needs of the forward-thinking Indian men. Blackberrys is India’s leading menswear brand and curates the finest craftsmanship for every occasion. “We plan to set up 100 EBOs across India,” says Ramesh Kaushik, Vice-President, Brand Experience.

The collection

In A/W ’18 the brand launched Casuale collection. This collection targets men in age groups of 18-35 years and is divided into

three segments: mainline, urban and casual. “The collection amalgamates technology and art. Mainline includes convertibles like jackets, belts and in other categories. Urban and Casuale emphasise on the fun side of design blending technology and art the collections.” The collection includes a lot of expressive prints and patterns that exhibit the sociable side of today’s entrepreneurs. “The essence of our collection is our aspiring and ambitious consumer. It offers a whole range of checkered shirts, and blazers that are exclusive in terms of colors and combinations,” adds Kaushik. The collection also includes casual khakis in vibrant colors and neutral tones, casual shirts, polos, t-shirts and autumn blazers, and winter jackets.

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BRAND LEADER

Oxemberg ‘We are building a one stop online purchase point for our garments’ The brand

With each new season, Oxemberg creates a stir in the fashion space with its dynamic and young collection. This year too, the brand keeps its spirit of style and comfort intact by launching its latest denim collection, crafted according to the lifestyle of the younger generation. “Curated to perfection from a premium fabric, the collection is perfect for this generation,” says Gaurav Poddar, Executive Director. The brand also offers sharp formals, classy semi - formals, smart casuals and stylish club wear that breathe life and color into its customer’s closet. The brand achieved a new milestone by holding the shoot of its latest collection in the in the exotic city of Palermo, Sicily. “The casual yet spunky vibe of this campaign syncs perfectly with the ethos of ‘ Make your move’. It reflects the attitude of those who dare to take a step towards the unconventional,” adds Poddar. “The collection is sure set to entice the youth.”

The retail scenario

The Indian retail mega structure is going

through an interesting battle between two great paradigms i.e. the online and offline. “With mobile revolution, increasing digitisation and e-commerce have came together and played a vital role in changing the face of how retail industry works. As a culmination of all these factors, omni channel is growing in India and changing the perception of how retail industry is looked upon in India,” adds Poddar. The right combination lies in the mix of physical stores, distribution channel, ecommerce and direct selling. As consumers today are tech savvy, market players have to closely monitor the trend and keep a 360 degree track of what lies ahead in terms of growth.

Gaurav Poddar Executive Director

“As of now, we are present in a few of online retail channels to make sure that customers are not hampered due to the the unavailability of products. In addition we are also devising new strategies and building a one stop online purchase point for our garments,” explains Poddar.

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BRAND LEADER

Pan America ‘We hope to see a big jump in our CAGR in the next two years’

Shrinivas Ayyar Director

The brand

The brainchild of Rajkumar Lalwani and Ashok Bhandari, Pan America, over the last 17 years, has focused on delivering great value for money to customers besides ensuring they build a strong company. The brand recently launched a range of T-shirts. Pan America offers new designs every month besides ensuring an attractive pricing strategy. It mainly offers sformal clothing but also has a strong presence in the casual wear category. “We offer a huge variety of casuals including shirts, jeans and cotton trousers. We entered the denim segment recently with jeans and other accessories. The pricing advantage that we offer with quality at the terrific price-performance ratio makes us incredibly strong in this region,” adds Shrinivas Ayyar, Director.

Retail footprint

Pan America has a wide retail presence with 60 EBOs, over 5,000 MBOs and 120 shop in shops. The brand is not present in any large format stores but is available at 25 lifestyle MBOs. “We are not present in any e-commerce portal and don’t intend to be any time soon,” adds Ayyar. Growing at a CAGR of 12 to 15 per cent Pan America hopes to see a big jump in growth in the next two syears. 64 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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BRAND LEADER

T Base

Shalom Soman George Marketing Manager

‘We plan to invest more on our online venture’ The brand

Inspired by the vibrant urban youth, brand T-base launched the Metropolitan Tribe collection. “This vibrant collection reflects our choice of colors, designs, fits and fabrics. The slim fits combine with innovative fabrics set the mood for the season,” states Shalom Soman George, Marketing Manager of the brand. The jackets in this collection have clean cuts, making them chisel fit jacket. “Color blocking is the highlight with orange and ochre pops colors reinventing the seasonal color story. We have also developed our original range of camo prints which ensures that every t-base garment tells a story of its own,” adds George.

Focus on innovations and creativity

Customers today walk into a store not just to buy clothes but a lifestyle, points out George. Hence, the offerings have to be unique and creative in a way they induce a feeling of excitement in the hearts of customers. “With so many players in the market, ensuring premium quality is insufficient to stay ahead of the game. Quality should be backed by innovative design and a unique creative energy,” notes George

Retail footprint

“Online retailing has boomed to unparalleled levels,” affirms George. The brand ventured into online retail more than a year ago. “We have got a phenomenal response for our online venture and hence, plan to direct more into this channel in the

TAANZ

next season,” he adds. Growing steadily over the year, T-base does not intend to slowdown. “Since our presence is increasing in different parts of India, we intend stay close to our customers,” Goerge says.

Kapil Khorana

Head (Product and Merchandising)

‘“We expect to open more EBOs to expand our reach’ The brand

Taanz experiments with fabrics to give it a better look and feel in its new collections. The brand uses an array fabrics like indigo Tencel, modal, cotton and poly cottons in trendy colours for shirts and T-shirts. “In sweater and sweatshirts we have used different yarns besides experimenting with new bonded fabrics and space dyed fabrics,” notes Kapil Khorana, Head-Product and Merchandising. For bottoms, the brand introduce Lycra and a wide range of dobby’s with prints and structure offering different wash techniques. The collection includes T-shirts, smart casual shirts and a crisp line of chinos, sweaters and sweatshirts in men.

Huge market drives growth

Khorana feels the current market is enough to drive both domestic and international brands. “The availability of abundant options and changing lifestyles has increased demands for brands. There is a huge scope for innovation in the segment with greater acceptance of smart casuals,” he says. The premium segment is facing competition with customers becoming aware of latest trends and fashions. “Although many

domestic and international brands have thrived, some faded away either due to their outdated products or for ignoring the potential of Tier II and III markets,” Khorana explains.

Entry of menswear brands fuels growth

With growing demand for women’s wear many menswear brands are launching products line for women either in casual or fusion wear. “As a majority of ethnic players are from unorganised market, competition in women’s wear or kids’ wear is still less compared to men’s. The entry of international brands with competitive price points has driven away customers from domestic brands,” Khorana opines.

Retail footprint

Taanz has a pan India presence with large format stores and MBO’s in over 200 cities. “We also cater to Tier-II and III cities,” informs Khorana. The brand is also available at all leading fashion portals like Amazon, Myntra, Jabong, Flipkart, etc, which is helping it to reach new customer base in Tier II and III cities. “We expect to open more EBOs to broaden our reach,” he adds. 65 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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BRAND LEADER

Monte Carlo ‘With focus on casual wear, Monte Carlo expands denim collection’

Monica Oswal

Executive Director, Monte Carlo

001 by Monte Carlo is designed for women who are sporty and extroverts. “The theme of our latest collection is submerging elegance and class with fashion trends,” notes Oswal. The brand has replaced the traditional millennial pink color with lilac, while floral and micro prints, wide leg denims and jumpsuits, rugged jeans and polo a T-shirt are in fashion. The designs are distinctly Indian but carry the richness of fabric and fit ethnic and casual wear styles. Monte Carlo does not differentiate between markets in terms of availability of its designs as Oswal says, “We live in an interconnected world where news travels at lightning speed and information is available at the touch of a smartphone screen.” With more and more women becoming a part of mainstream social life, their urgency to remain fashionable is also increasing. “This has triggered the market for women’s wear which is expected to reach around Rs 289,518 crore by 2025. Earlier, women’s casual wear was limited to T-shirt, skirts and jeans but today women want more than regular, hence the need for constant change,” notes Oswal. Consumers are gradually realising the importance of quality in terms of fabrics and stitching which affects the fit and comfort of a garment.

The brand

Market penetration

Monte Carlo’s Q1 revenue from sales was Rs 80.93 crore. The brand has already established its presence the in North, Central and East India and enjoys great customer loyalty. “We are increasing our presence in metros such as Delhi. Online platforms have helped us increase market penetration in Tier II and III cities much more rapidly,” Oswal avers. The brand’s ecommerce platform was launched in 2012. It has helped it keep its facility costs low besides helping it to penetrate the Tier II and III markets.

Oswal points out premium brands are also increasingly addressing the issue of affordability. “Monte Carlo has been at the forefront of this movement. The scale, aggregation and consolidation that we are able to bring, in relation to local brands, for a marginal amount of difference in price, are unparalleled,” she adds. The brand is able to provide a better deal because of its pan-India presence, personal R&D units and strong distribution and supply chains. “Our goal is to provide affordable but quality clothing in line with global trends and we have succeeded in doing just that,” adds Oswal.

Monte Carlo has expanded its denim collection by incorporating more quality material, precise stitching and the new cuts. The brand also introduced a wide range of slim fit denim with detailed laser printing in various shades. Additionally, it’s festive fusion range for the upcoming season, not only make great festive wear but is also ideal for everyday wear. “In future, we plan to expand our woollen collection besides introducing more options in formal, fusion and casual wear,” says Monica Oswal, Executive Director of the brand.

The Asia-Pacific region is currently the third largest market for women’s wear in the world and is growing rapidly. This is due to the increasing number of women joining the workforce, rising incomes and increasing awareness about global fashion. Apart from marketing, brands are providing greater personalised experiences. As Oswal opines, “Fabrics are becoming richer and more comfortable because of their ability to stretch and accommodate various body types. The stitching is stronger and more versatile because of economies of scale.”

Infusing elegance into fashion

Key challenges ahead

A premium fashion brand, the women’s casual wear collectionWith focus on casual wear Monte Carlo expands denim collection

illicit markets, labor related concerns, excise duty on man-made fibers, raw materials shortage and lack of quality infrastructure in non-metros are some of the key challenges being faced by the causalwear market today.” She goes on to explain, government schemes such as TUFS and greater collaboration between government and industry in textile and apparel zones can help the industry eliminate concerns.

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BRAND LEADER

Madame ‘We will grow at a CAGR of 8.5 per cent by 2020’

Ankit Sood

Head (Fashion Trend Forecasting and Planning)

The Brand

Women’s fashion brand Madame’s recent joint venture with Spanish unisex brand Camla Barcelona involves importing their products in the men’s and women’s wear category. “We are their custodians to help them increase their production gradually,” says Ankit Sood, Head (Fashion Trend Forecasting & Planning), of the brand. “We have already set up 12 stores for them, each of which measures a minimum of 3,000 sq ft. The brand is also updating its sequenced stores in India.” The products offered under this JV are 20 per cent cheaper than Madame. It offers clothes for customers in the age group 15 to 21 years, whereas Madam offers clothes for customers in age group of 18 to 40 years now. “We recently launched a 450 sq ft store in Jalandhar,” informs Sood. The brand currently has three manufacturing units in Ludhiana. It launches one store a month. In all, it has around 150 stores in India currently. It also has stores in the Gulf, Nepal , Bhutan, Australia and New Zealand and are only exporting as on a shop and shop concept. “We are looking for some good partner in South East Asia,” adds Sood.

Retail spread

Madame uses all verticals including EBO’s, shopin-shops, large formats stores, etc. to retail products. It has 120 stores in India and only one EBO for its fusionwear brand Aritzia. “Our stores measure from 550 sq.ft to 5,500 sq.ft. The west zone has about 18 stores. Mumbai has eight stores, of which three are located in the airport. In all, we have 600 points of sales including MBO’s and EBO’s and LFS,” Sood states “Women’s wear market in India is like a gold mine waiting to explode,” believes Sood. Western wear for women is being accepted in conjunction with ethnic wear. The market is likely to grow by 48 per cent in 2019 and post an impressive 8.5 per cent CAGR by 2020. 67 DFU’s DESIRE DENIMS & CASUALS

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WOMENS CASUALS

Women’s casuals not a casual story anymore Growing awareness about latest trends and higher disposable income have given a huge boost to women’s denim and casual segment in india. the market has become crowded with many domestic and global players extending their line to add innovative collections, write shubhangi Bidwe and ajay kumar Goswami ith more Indian women stepping out of homes to join the work force their need to be fashionable and trendy at all times has gone up. “This has been one of the biggest triggers for the growth of women’s wear market in India,” notes Monica Oswal, Executive Director, Monte Carlo. The women’s wear market currently estimated at Rs 102,358 crore is likely to grow at a CAGR of 11 per cent to reach Rs 289,518 Cr by 2025,” she adds.

• Women’s wear market estimated at Rs 102,358 cr is likely to grow at a CAGR of 11 per cent to reach Rs 289,518 Cr by 2025

Denim and Casual wear evolving with time

• Global and domestic brands are crowding the market with offerings

While casual wear for women was limited to T-shirts, skirts and jeans for a long time today, women demand much more. Keeping up with western trends they are looking for innovations in casual wear “The casual wear market is evolving with the trend being accepted by all ages, personalities and body types,” says Vero Moda’s spokesperson. The trend combines high street fashion with streetwear making it suitable for individuals with all kind of tastes. Meanwhile denim has now become a wardrobe staple for women both in metros and small cities as Western wear that had lower penetration vis-à-vis organized retailers, accounts a large chunk of the women’s wear market today. “Denim is now considered one of the most versatile fabrics for men and women as it can be effortlessly sported casually as day to day wear as well as work wear,” points out Vero Moda spokesperson. The brand curates for fashion-conscious, independent young women who want to dress smart with quality, affordable, and inspiring clothing. Monte Carlo for example has expanded its denim collection with more quality material, precise stitching and new cuts. “A wide range of slim fit denim with detailed laser printing in various shades spoils them for choice,” adds Oswal. Denim, innerwear, and tops/shirts/Tshirts are the high-growth categories within the women’s wear segment. In casual wear, denim has emerged as

• Casual trend combines high street fashion with streetwear, making it suitable for individuals with all tastes • Trends like floral and micro prints, wide leg denims, jumpsuits, rugged jeans and polo T-shirts are in fashion • Growing e-commerce has helped the denim and casual wear sector keep its facility costs low • Demand growing beyond metros and mini metros

a prime category with the largest customer base. Growing demand for fresh styles and design has redefined the denim market in India. The traditional blue denim has now been reinvented into a new avatar with more options in colours, finishes, looks and washes. The availability of stretch denim has taken the market by storm as it has addressed the challenges created by demand for a perfect fit and comfort.

The stitching is stronger and more versatile because of economies of scale,” states Oswal. Vero Moda too constantly invests in fabrics, improved technologies and product innovation that ensures zero compromise on quality of product. The brand spokesperson notes, “Shoppers today are willing to pay a higher price based on the trends and quality

Fabrics become richer and more comfortable Casual wear, especially for women, has never remained stagnant in terms of trend. “This season, lilac has replaced millennial pink, with a mixture of red and pink being the new emerging trend. Similarly, floral and micro prints, wide leg denims, jumpsuits, rugged jeans and polo t-shirts are in fashion,” explains Oswal. The brand’s new casual wear collection for women is designed for the sporty and outgoing women. It has cotton rich material in bright colours and fashionable cuts. “The theme of our collection is submerging elegance and class with fashion trends,” informs Oswal. Consumers are gradually realising the importance of quality of fabrics and stitching which affects the fit and comfort of apparels. “Fabrics are becoming richer and more comfortable due to their ability to stretch and accommodate various body types.

monica oswal

executive director, monte Carlo “the shift from ethnic wear to denims and casual wear is happening because of increasing number of women joining the workforce in mid and higher level positions and increasing incomes.”

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of products that brands have to offer.”

Challenges facing the category With the influx of many fashion labels in the Indian market, casual wear category is constantly expanding however, rapidly evolving trends result in low lead time and a drastic reduction in product shelf life. “Brands need to refresh their inventory within short intervals to deliver new and improved products and manage consumer expectations,” says Vero Moda spokesperson. Some other challenges that the segment faces include: tackling fakes, power shortage, illicit markets, labor related concerns, excise duty on man-made fibers, raw materials shortage and lack of quality infrastructure in non-metropolitan cities. “Government schemes such as TUFS and greater collaboration between government and industry in Textile and Apparel Zones

can help the industry eliminate these concerns,” adds Oswal. She points out denim and casual wear are increasingly being preferred to ethnic wear. “Increasing participation of women in workforce coupled with higher incomes and awareness of Western trends is driving denims and casual wear,” she further states. Rise of e-commerce has helped the denim and casual wear sector to keep its costs low though many shoppers prefer the comfort and instant gratification of brick and mortar retail stores. “These stores allow

Vero Moda

“Brands need to refresh their inventory within short intervals to deliver new and improved products and manage consumer expectations.”

them try out clothes in a retail store before buying which is a big advantage and relief from the hassles of returning items later. An online presence helps you connect with the millennial consumer that is primarily young, ambitious and intelligent,” adds the Vero Moda spokesperson. Denim and casual wear has become very popular among women in both metros and mini metros, especially among the younger generation. Working women in smaller cities too have started accepting denim as a casual outfit. Growing focus of retailers and brands on women’s denim will contribute to its further growth. The majority of the market is concentrated in metros and mini metros, which together account for nearly 50 per cent of the market. The denim market is witnessing both value and volume growth. While the lower end value segment especially in Tier II, III towns and rural India is driving volume growth; mature markets in urban India is driving value growth.

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BRAND LEADER

HRX ‘Indian sportswear brands have the potential to supersede international brands’ comfort and chic. Jeans and trainers have replaced dress pants and brogues driving growth of the athleisure sector,” Zaidi explains.

Activewear to grow at 12 per cent CAGR

Afsar Zaidi Co-Founder

Zaidi notes the current “Indian active wear market is estimated at a Rs 8,500 crore. It is expected to grow at a CAGR 12 per cent and touch sales of approx. Rs 54,000 crores by 2020.” Active wear includes clothes that can be worn from studio to street. These clothes are meant to be exercised in, lived in and even moved about in. Around 65 per cent HRX sales are likely to be driven by men, while the remaining 35 per cent will from women. However, the brand expects sales from women’s category to increase to 45 per cent this year. “Performance wear are clothes that are

The Brand

HRX offers products across active wear and athleisure categories for both men and women. The brand plans to expand its activewear portfolio for women before venturing into the athleisure space. “We are adding specialised collections for yoga, training and running, etc. Sports bras and performance are the key products we are focusing on,” notes Afsar Zaidi, Co-Founder of the brand. For men, the brand offers tracks, tees, joggers, hoodies, etc. HRX has several new categories in the offing. “We launched eyewear and would soon launch innerwear/loungewear. Alongside, we also plan to add new partnerships to our current portfolio. Today, clothing spells

particularly designed for the purpose of sports. These have special in built features or technology aids that help an athlete or player improve his/her performance in the sport,” he adds.

Growing awareness leads to growth

Indian activewear industry is fast proliferating with growing awareness about health and wellness. The increase in number of sporting clubs, increased interest in sporting activities like football, basketball, tennis, badminton and cricket alongwith a rise in disposal income and a growing inclination towards fitness is spurring growth of this industry. Sportswear brands are rapidly proliferating and possess some emotional value and

attachment for the Indian consumer. HRX by HrithikRoshan today is a household name in active wear category in India.

Need for better marketing and sales strategies

Stating that “fitness should be democratised by making it available to everyone in the country, Zaidi advises brands to improve the quality of products and also make it more affordable. “Indian sportswear brands have the potential to supersede international brands if we increase our presence in organised retail and improve marketing and sales strategies,” he opines. “Fitness no more is an urban phenomenon,” he says Zaidi. “Top metros contribute the maximum to fitness industry but other cities like Lucknow, Jaipur, Indore, Ludhiana etc, are also not far behind. As Indians have become more health conscious and

image sensitive, their pursuit for fitness has increased,” he adds.

Penetrating deeper into categories

The average age bracket for Indian fitness enthusiasts is 20-35 years, which makes up the majority of population of young Indian students and professionals. “To tap into this big chunk of Indian population with disposable incomes and affinity for fitness, brands need to focus on active the wear segment,” Zaidi observes. While 50 per cent of Indians prefer traditional activities like walking and running, the remaining 50 per cent moved to swimming, cycling and other sports. To target these customers, brands need to delve deeper into sub categories.

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BRAND LEADER

Nitrite ‘Athleisure market has a bright future’ The Brand

“The athleisure wear market in India is growing at a rapid pace with people becoming more conscious about their heath,” says Varun Mittal, Director of homegrown atleisure brand Nitrite. “Fitness is the main driver with many overseas companies also launching their sportswear with new designs and fabrics,” he adds.

Knitted fabrics in neon and pastel colors

Known as a brand crafted for people with passion, Nitrite has developed a new range of women’s wear that includes yoga, gym and athleisure with spandex for stretch and comfort. The brand uses knitted fabric with built in technology for moisture management, anti-odour, anti bacterial, UV-Protection, aroma finish, elastomeric finish. Mittal reveals, “Neon and pastel colors are in demand these days. Similarly slim and relax fits are in fashion especially with regards to garments with spandex.”

varun mittal

executive director

Mittal feels since many new national and international brands have jumped into this segment the consumer have a wide choice in terms of design and patterns. Though the contribution of men category to activewear is more than women’s and kids, women’s segment is also growing fast as new companies have forayed into this space with a wide collection that maintains quality and is affordable.

Growth in women’s wear

“The market was earlier split in 70:30 ratio for the men and women. But since the last few years, the market for women’s category has been growing at a faster rate and the ratio has now changed to 55:45,”observes Mittal. This growth is more concentrated in metros but people in Tier II III cities are becoming aware of this segment. The sector has a bright future with more players likely to foray into it.

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ATHLEISURE

Athleisure

keeps steady growth pace as its popularity grows in India indians have caught up fast with the western trend of athleisure as fitness has become an integral part of our lifestyles. Both indian and global brands have quickly foreseen growing demand and launched their lines to tap the fast growing segment, write ajanta Ganguly and ajay kumar Goswami s a hot and sultry summer is on with everything in an urban wardrobe spelling comfort and chic, the fitness industry in India is a sunrise sector poised to grow at around 30 per cent year on year. The athleisure segment in India is a new niche segment where athletic inspired comfortable yet chic clothing are the defining fashion trends of the 21st century. It is the key driver for the growth of active wear and leisure categories for both men and women. Being fit not fat is the motto of the health and wellness trend across all age groups in India. As disposable income rises across all social sections, the athleisure segment of casual yet comfortable clothing suitable for the gym as well as casual social settings is taking over global catwalks by storm. Vibrant styles, signature cuts, mix and match and a lot of innovation is now happening to this latest niche apparel segment in India for both men and women. Athleisure looks and

• Athleisure is a comparatively new and niche segment in India as of now • Fitness industry in India is poised to grow at 30 per cent year on year • Athleisure segment has been driven by men’s category so far • Women’s category is growing as fast • Women’s category in athleisure is more complex • Innovations hold the key for future growth feels great whether you’re working out at the gym, entertaining at home, on the school run or just running errands.

Athleisure making a mark all across “The athleisure segment is growing fast in India. While India is becoming more casual at work places, people are also becoming

saikat mitra

van Heusen “the trend of athliesure wear is catching up fast as people are increasingly becoming fitness conscious and they want to wear something which is okay for their social life as well as for work life and resonates with their fitness sensibilities. in india, most brands have caught up with this trend and launched their own range. we are also aware of that and have taken up that idea and successfully launched van Heusen innerwear and athliesure which is doing well.”

more fashionable and that is leading to the rise of this segment. But athleisure is not just a trend, it is also a lot of technology being inducted into manufacturing processes and therefore, the results are some innovative products. As of now, growth has been moderate in the segment. However, this is going to change drastically in the next few years with the advent of more global brands and also a lot of local brands looking to launch various innovations in this space. Also with 3D technology making its way in the country, innovation and offtake in this segment will be propelled further,” opines Abhishek Shetty, Head of Marketing, PR & Loyalty, Celio. With most Indians pursuing fitness through numerous ways, the market for this apparel segment has grown in leaps and bounds. It is not just active wear clothes worn for a specific purpose such as swimming, yoga or running but more of a general leisure segment of comfortable clothing that can absorb sweat and increase flexibility. With India having one of the youngest populations in the world and rising disposable income coupled with the desire for fitness, leading casual wear brands are now primarily focussing on active wear segment. While targeting the general casual wear segment, brands are now delving deeper into sub categories and athleisure segment is a promising one. “Earlier the split between men’s and women’s category in the athleisure was 70 per cent and 30 per cent respectively but nowadays the women’s category is growing faster with the split

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Abhishek Shetty

Afsar Zaidi

Vijay Kapoor

Head of Marketing, PR & Loyalty, Celio “As of now, growth has been moderate in the segment. However, this is going to change drastically in the next few years with the advent of more global brands and also a lot of local brands looking to launch various innovations in this space. Also with 3D technology making its way in the country, innovation and offtake in this segment will be propelled further.”

Co-founder, HRX “HRX has offerings for both men and women across active wear and athleisure categories. For women, we have been working towards expanding the active wear portfolio before we venture into the cluttered and confused women’s athleisure space. Hence, we have been adding specialized collections for yoga, training, and running to the product mix. Sports bras and performance shoes are the key categories of focus as well.”

Managing Director, Derby Jeans Community “As a brand, we have shifted hundred per cent to stretchable denim. In the premium category, we have shifted to jog denims, which has been given a thorough lifestyle touch and is now an intrinsic part of both athliesure and work wear. Jog denim’s applicability is in all walks of life. These are regular knitted denim which does not necessarily come with drop strings or other typical attributes of jog denims.”

being 55 per cent for men and 45 per cent for women. Compared to global markets, athleisure market in India is growing faster even though Indian customer is very price conscious. It has a bright future as more and more domestic and global players are expected to enter this segment,” explains Varun Mittal, Director, Nitrite.

space. Hence, we have been adding specialized collections for yoga, training, and running to the product mix. Sports bras and performance shoes are the key categories of focus as well. Vibrant styles, signature cuts and lots of mélange would be found in upcoming capsules. For men, we have active wear including training and running lines and a well-defined athleisure line, which offers tracks, tees, joggers and hoodies among others,’’ says Afsar Zaidi, Co-founder of HRX. Athleisure segment first made an impact on global catwalks a few years ago and it remains just as much in 2019. Experts feel fitness should be democratized by making it available across all economic and boundaries by making the price affordable. Keeping fit is not just about going to fancy gyms and spending a packet, it’s also about exercising at home or going for a run around your locality wearing performance enhancing clothes. Indian sportswear brands have the potential to supersede international sports brand if they are able to increase their presence in organized retail and improve marketing and sales strategy. To be able to tap into this big chunk of the Indian population with available disposable income and the affinity for fitness, brands have to focus on active wear and its sub categories. While almost 50 per cent of Indians still prefer traditional ways of staying active like walking and running, the rest are inclined to swimming, cycling and other sports and training means. But whatever they do, they require garments that are suited for the purpose and this is makes the segment lucrative.

“The trend of athliesure wear is catching up fast as people are increasingly becoming fitness conscious and they want to wear something which is okay for their social life as well as for work life and resonates with their fitness sensibilities. In India, most brands have caught up with this trend and launched their own range. We are also aware of that and have taken up that idea and successfully launched Van Heusen innerwear and athliesure which is doing well. We also do work actives, a part of Van Heusen Sport it uses new age blends, cutting edge methods of constructing the garments, but we try to keep them as office wear, so one is able to wear these for both the occasions,’’ says Saikat Mitra of Van Heusen clothing. Athleisure collection of most brands is primarily focused towards garments which have properties like being odour free, sun protection, vent mesh for fast sweat absorption as well as being stretchable and light weight. These properties make the garment intelligent and keep people cool and comfortable even while others in normal clothing are sweating it out. However every brand in the active wear segment should not try and enter this niche category, as the brand has to create their own individual identity first. As an apparel segment that focuses on a clever mix of fashion with functionality that is slowly stepping out from the gym into casual settings, it needs a lot of room to grow and evolve. “India has been very quick in picking up trends from the West. In past few years with a lot of people travelling and making health a focus athleisure category has

Women’s athleisure moving ahead Over the last decade, the active wear segment for women has streamlined and created space for a cluttered mix and match athleisure segment. Stylish leggings go just as well with heels as they do with sneakers and sporty jackets worn over wellfitted sweat shirts and T shirts are perfect for layering at the gym as well as to the airport or a movie outing. Active wear is normally studio to street clothing, meant to be exercised in, lived in and worn during any kind of physical activity. Performance wear however, are clothes particularly designed for sports. These shave special in built features or technology aids that help an athlete or player improve his/her performance. The fitness apparel market is not just an urban phenomenon it is now percolating to the smaller cities and towns across India. “HRX has offerings for both men and women across active wear and athleisure categories. For women, we have been working towards expanding the active wear portfolio before we venture into the cluttered and confused women’s athleisure

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Elaborating on denim’s role in the athliesure segment’s growth, Vijay Kapoor, Managing Director, Derby Jeans Community points out, “As a brand, we have shifted hundred per cent to stretchable denim. In the premium category, we have shifted to jog denims, which

has been given a thorough lifestyle touch and is now an intrinsic part of both athliesure and work wear. Jog denim’s applicability is in all walks of life, these are regular knitted denim which does not necessarily come with drop strings or other typical attributes of jog denims. It has reached a different level of utility and acceptability. The best part is, the consumer loves and appreciates the comfort factor and are asking for more. Based on these demands, we have launched a new product range for previous festive season called ‘Derby Infinity Blu.” Summing up the importance of athleisure segment in Indian apparel industry, Bobby Arora, Director of Status Quo says, “Athleisure trend has led many retailers and brands to unveil their own collections in recent years, and the term has even been added to the dictionary. We as a

Bobby Arora

Varun Mittal

become a huge segment. With international brand prices pinching customers, this has given way many homegrown brands an opportunity to prove their metal. The future is growing, as celebrities too are entering this category with their personal brands. The category will evolve and diverse into different product categories,” says Aditya Agarwal,Co-Founder of Campus Sutra.

Denim’s role in athleisure growth

Director, Status Quo “Athleisure trend has led many retailers and brands to unveil their own collections in recent years, and the term has even been added to the dictionary. We as a brand understand the potential of athleisure segment and have showcased a separate collection in Spring/Summer ’19. We expect good growth as the prime focus of today’s generation is fitness. As an apparel brand, we are aware of the potential of athleisure and plan to launch a separate vertical soon.”

Director, Nitrite “Earlier the split between men’s and women’s category in the athleisure was 70 per cent and 30 per cent respectively but nowadays the women’s category is growing faster with the split being 55 per cent for men and 45 per cent for women. Compared to global markets, athleisure market in India is growing faster even though Indian customer is very price conscious. It has a bright future as more and more domestic and global players are expected to enter this segment.”

brand understand the potential of athleisure segment and have showcased a separate collection in Spring/Summer ’19. We expect good growth as the prime focus of today’s generation is fitness. As an apparel brand, we are aware of the potential of athleisure and plan to launch a separate vertical soon.” Athleisure is the newest garment trend that’s here to stay while people of all ages wear their workout wear all day now in a casual settings. Garments that mix functionality with fashion while keeping up with seasonal trends and colours and adding that one accessory that takes your athleisure look from gym to the street and beyond is what smart brands are focussing on. And with the hot summer months already upon us, it is time for formals segment to give way to this segment that spells comfort and fashion in a single statement.

Aditya Agarwal

Co-Founder, Campus Sutra “India has been very quick in picking up trends from the West. In past few years with a lot of people travelling and making health a focus athleisure category has become a huge segment. With international brand prices pinching customers, this has given way many homegrown brands an opportunity to prove their metal. The future is growing, as celebrities too are entering this category with their personal brands. The category will evolve and diverse into different product categories.”

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BRAND LEADER

Kanoria ‘We plan to increase capacity in the next three years’ The brand

Operational for the last two years, Ethiopiabased Kanoria Chemicals and Industries makes 2 million meters of denim fabric per month. The brand has a state-of art-plant which makes 100 per cent cotton denim, cotton stretch, cotton mercerised, cotton poly stretch, cotton rigid and over dyed fabrics. “We plan to increase our production capacity to 18 million in phase II and 27 million meters per month in the next three years,” says Ashish Agarwal, CEO of the company.

Increasing popularity across Indian and international markets

A multipurpose fabric, denim is being increasingly used for casual wear and everyday wear. The fabric is also gaining popularity in leisurewear owing to the comfort provided by stretch denim. “Transcending from being the miner’s workwear, the denim fabric has been a fashion product since last few decades. It has witnessed a lot of innovations so far, the most recent being stretch denim. These types of fabrics are most in demand amongst international brands who prefer light weight fabrics in dark shades. Besides, sustainable fabrics

like African cotton, BCI are in demand in the European market,” adds Agarwal. In the Indian market Agarwal notes, “consumer’s choice though unstable and unpredictable, has remained almost the same while selecting denim. The scope for denim wear is increasing in India and its worldwide market share has increased unpredictably in the last few decades.”

Growing at a healthy rate

India is a leading denim fabric manufacturer

in the world, with a capacity of about 1,500 million meters per annum. The country has over 55 denim fabric mills with the industry growing at the rate of 15 per cent per annum. “The production capacity for denim fabrics in India, which was 260 million meters per annum in 2006 has increased to 1,500 million meter with another 150 million meters of new capacity in the pipeline,” adds Agarwal. The industry has been growing consistently at a rate between 10 to 15 percent per annum.

Innovations in denim

Denim is moving towards stretch (with Lycra). “Stretch denim usually incorporates an elastic component (such as elastane) into the fabric to allow a degree of stretchability in garments. Developing this type of denim requires a dedicated effort for research and development. Barring a few companies, the rest don’t have this facility and mostly copy the product from international brands,” notes Agarwal. Dominating denim production in the Asia Pacific region, India produces around 1,200 million meters per annum of denim fabric. “About 75-85 per cent of the total production is consumed locally,” he adds. “There is an

increasing acceptability for denim amongst all strata of the Indian society. The top 10 towns that account for less than 10 per cent of Indian population consume almost 50 per cent of the denim fabrics in India,” adds Gupta.

Men’s denim dominate market

Almost 85 per cent of the market is dominated by men, while 10 per cent is in the female segment while the kids segment contributes about 5 per cent of the market. Almost 85 per

Ashish Agarwal CEO

cent of the total denim production in India is sold in the domestic market. “However, this prevents the domestic industry from introducing new innovations. As a result, only a few Indian companies have been able to compete with global players in product development,” says Agarwal. “Now however, with almost 35 per cent sales coming from the organised sector and 40 per cent from the branded segment, denim is expected to register significant growth in the near future,” he concludes.

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RETAIL

Online retail clicks well in the casual wear segment Going beyond brick and mortar stores, brands have spread out their retail strategy to include online selling which has become integral to their growth story. tapping on a generation that’s hooked to the internet and smart phones, e-retail is now an essential part of every brand’s growth story today, writes ajanta Ganguly ith the surge in smart phones across both the urban and rural areas of India, the internet is playing an essential tool for global business growth and brand recognition. The Indian retail mega structure is currently going through an interesting battle between two great paradigms of online and the offline in the casual wear apparel segment. The retail industry has been spinning on its top ever since the mobile revolution, increasing digitization and e-commerce have hit the Indian retail sector. Over the next 15 years, India will see more people come online than any other country, as young consumers show a higher affinity for online purchases. Experts say, by 2020, India is expected to generate $100 billion online retail revenue out of which $35 billion will come from fashion e-commerce. This clearly implies that online apparel sales are set to grow four times in the next five years and will contribute significantly to the burgeoning online business growth.

Armchair shopping trending in casual wear segment India is now currently replacing China as the most promising markets for retail expansion, supported by an expanding economy, booming consumption rates, an urban population and growing middle class. Understanding the fashion sensibilities and buying behaviour of today’s tech savvy generation has kickstarted the omni channel retail format in denims and casual wear. “By 2020, India is expected to generate $100 billion online retail revenue out of which $35 billion will come from fashion e-commerce. This clearly implies that online apparel sales are set to grow four times in the next five years and will contribute significantly to the burgeoning online

• Over next 15 years, India will see more people shop online than any other country • By 2020, India is expected to generate $100 bn from online retail • Of this $35 billion will be from fashion e-commerce • Online apparel sales are set to grow four times in the next five years • E-tailers are adopting innovative strategies to cater to unique needs and preferences of the tech-savvy population • People of all ages, gender and class are shifting to online shopping business growth. Customers are bombarded with so many promotions/launches/ advertisements on their handset that they are subconsciously getting habituated to explore and experiment online buying. The massive discounts are driving force for the customers to dig more into the data resulting in a favourable sale sooner or later. E-tailers are adopting innovative strategies to cater unique need and preferences of the techsavvy population. Every brand has adopted the digital disruption to provide consumers more influential products and services, in order to strengthen the bond of trust,” says Usha Periasamy, Director, Classic Polo. However, the concept of armchair shopping for the casual wear segment is only an entirely urban phenomenon and a minuscule part of the entire brand retail

segment that comprises of large formats, MBO’s, EBO’s and franchises, spread across a multi- cultural country like India. Online shopping is all about capitalizing the confidence that the customer has on a brand and once the customer’s loyalty is assured, it is just a matter of making his shopping experience as easy as possible through a web portal. “As we are living and catering to the Gen Y, we need to understand their buying. They are more tech savvy with limited time and clear in their head about their needs. This generation loves to wear what they believe in. As this generation loves casual wear and its best suited to them, it implies that omni channel is playing a vital role in the casual wear segment. The perfect blend of retail channel can only be reached to a conclusion

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Usha Periasamy

Director, Classic Polo “By 2020, India is expected to generate $100 billion online retail revenue out of which $35 billion will come from fashion e-commerce. This clearly implies that online apparel sales are set to grow four times in the next five years and will contribute significantly to the burgeoning online business growth. Customers are bombarded with so many promotions/launches/ advertisements on their handset that they are subconsciously getting habituated to explore and experiment online buying. The massive discounts are driving force for the customers to dig more into the data resulting in a favourable sale sooner or later.”

by mixing best practices with the dynamics of domestic market. Eventually, the right combination lies in a mix of physical stores, distribution channel, e-commerce & direct selling,’’ adds Gaurav Poddar, Executive Director of Oxemberg, a leading formal and casual brand from the Mumbai-based Siyaram Group.

Physical stores, online retail blend to form brand image Whether domestic or global, a brand image is truly created in shop shelves of physical stores, be it MBO’s, EBO’s, LF’s or the simple neighbourhood store, where customers can check products before buying it. Online shopping cannot compare with a weekend shopping experience at a mall with family and friends, which is a stress buster by itself. Many still do not trust the credibility and safety of using credit cards online and prefer the safety zone of cash registers and credit card machines at physical stores. Every format has its own advantage and disadvantage and it is up to the brand to study and come up with its own strategy for a win-win position of brand

with the right product and price mix. All three formats are essential for any national brand to make the best of business, especially in the casual wear and denim segment. “Competition has become a double-edged sword. The advent of globalization has made it essential for retailers to be on their toes always. We as a retailer have to design, and redesign our retail formats, and come up with creative customer shopping experiences. Retailers need to adapt innovative formats to meet customer preferences. Malls had, in the recent past defined the way of middle class shopping. But currently with the drastic change in trends, customer preferences, and their income level, single brand stores are gaining importance. Retailers must be customer centric and decide the right format,’’ points out Akash Manwani, AVP, Donear Retail Division of Donear NXG. “Online potential is sky rocketing and many stores are upgrading their websites and offering online services from their physical stores on certain unavailable styles to avoid any opportunity miss. Customers are bombarded with so many promotions/ launches/ advertisements on their handset that they are subconsciously getting habituated to explore and experiment online buying. Massive discounts are driving force for customers to dig more into the data resulting in a favourable sale sooner or later. E-tailers are adopting innovative strategies to cater unique need and preferences of the tech-savvy population,’’ he adds. Retailers more often prefer multi brand options because they get the freedom to choose and decide. In exclusive formats, retailers lose their freedom as they will have

to abide by the brand guidelines such as fixed set of promotions for a year. Apparels are more product driven, and less brand driven, and hence, MBOs will prove more

Gaurav Poddar

Executive Director, Oxemberg, Siyaram Group “As this generation loves casual wear and its best suited to them, it implies that omni channel is playing a vital role in the casual wear segment. The perfect blend of retail channel can only be reached to a conclusion by mixing best practices with the dynamics of domestic market. Eventually, the right combination lies in a mix of physical stores, distribution channel, e-commerce & direct selling.”

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profitable for retailer. In case of apparels, consumption rates are seeing an increasing trend since; customers get a variety of apparels to choose from. EBOs need efficient and trained staff, as they are the face of the brand. MBOs are free from this. Multi brand formats put the brand and its product right in the middle of its competitors. New offerings are showcased in a way, facilitating the consumers to compare and decide. The sheer volume of shoppers stepping in MBOs makes it essential, not to be ignored. LFS like Lifestyle, and Shoppers Stop or any smaller to mid size MBO are gaining more popularity with the consumers. The variety of choice in an MBO or LSS sometimes confuses a shopper and

Akash Manwani

AVP, Donear Retail Division, Donear NXG “Online potential is sky rocketing and many stores are upgrading their websites and offering online services from their physical stores on certain unavailable styles to avoid any opportunity miss. Customers are bombarded with so many promotions/ launches/ advertisements on their handset that they are subconsciously getting habituated to explore and experiment online buying. Massive discounts are driving force for customers to dig more into the data resulting in a favourable sale sooner or later.”

also does not encourage brand loyalty or guaranteed buying from any fixed retailer. Exclusive brand outlets are brand- centric models, where the value proposition is customer centric. The retailer makes deep commitments through his investments, and marketing strategies and also enjoys territory protection, rebates and marketing support from the brand, better margins, and other subsidies. Online retail is also a kind of a web-based EBO as companies have their own specialized websites to convey its brand image along with unique promotional strategies. “Online retail is simply an additional way of selling. Casual wear is an exciting category for us and contributes majorly to the overall business. Jack & Jones is known for its quirky T-shirts, casual shirts and denims which forms the biggest chunk of the business. Online retail has allowed us to be closer to our customers across the country. The response has been encouraging and we look forward to increasing our product range in the online space,” points out the brand spokesperson for Jack and Jones, a leading international denim brand. And goes on to add “E-commerce is the biggest platform that helps a brand connect with its customers across the country. This platform allows brands to be omnipresent, increases customer accessibility and helps brands remain relevant in the retail space as well. Every retail brand has realized over time that this industry cannot be dependent on just one channel. Brands across all platforms in India have started focusing on incorporating technology into in-store and online experiences and are making a headway in the right direction.”

Online retail influences marketing concepts The online retail segment has become very strong over the last five years. Customers in small cities who like to choose from multiple brands in the denim and casual wear segment have taken to surfing online for shopping. With delivery routes spreading across both bigger cities and smaller towns within a time period of a few days, online sales comprise 10 to 20 per cent of most popular brands. Experts feel with omni-channels becoming the norm, concepts like visual trial rooms

Shalom Soman George

Marketing Manager-Retail (Online/offline), T Base “Online retailing has boomed to unparalleled level today. As a brand it has been a little more than a year since we concentrated our efforts towards online retailing. We are fairly new to this but the response we have been getting is phenomenal. Hence, we are directing more into this channel for next season.” and endless aisle will soon be adopted in a major way in retail. Further, these will offer businesses benefits such as reducing the number of returned items and logistical conveniences with delivery in any corner becoming a possibility in a matter of hours or few days. Online retail as a segment is aiming to not just deliver products but also to create fashion statements for its customers. “Online retailing has boomed to unparalleled level today. As a brand it has been a little more than a year since we concentrated our efforts towards online retailing. We are fairly new to this but the response we have been getting is phenomenal. Hence, we are directing more into this channel for next season. Today’s customer walks into a store not just to buy clothes but a lifestyle. Hence, the products have to be unique and creative to create an excitement in the hearts of customers. With so many players in the market, ensuring premium quality is insufficient to stay ahead of the game. Quality should be backed by innovative designs and a creative energy that is unique,’’ points out Shalom Soman George, Marketing Manager of Retail (Online/offline) of T Base, a leading domestic apparel manufacturer. Brand consciousness depends on the demographics and customer group. Customers from different socio-economic segments have different choices and preferences for brands, be it an online or offline purchase. However, customers in

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Aditya Agarwal

Co-Founder, Campus Sutra “We have seen people of all ages, gender and class shifting to online shopping. The online casual wear market is growing by leaps and bounds and has become the major focus of all ecommerce players as it is a key growth driver. With a shift of towards profitability, fashion has become the de facto category to focus on drawing in online players of every shape and size. With nearly 50 per cent of all e-commerce transactions in India happening in fashion, this category should be one of the most interesting to watch.”

tier III and IV cities are keener on value products which fit their purpose than brands specifically. Industry experts feel that the online format at best is a supportive sales platform for channel sales, which is what set the cash registers ringing. Most brands peg their price points at the general retail selling price points with a promotional bargain bundled with it. Traditionally, a price point ranging at the midpoint of the MRP and wholesale price point is the most ideal fostering good sales figure on this format and in turn does not upset the distribution channel sales segment “We have seen people of all ages, gender and class shifting to online shopping. The online casual wear market is growing by leaps and bounds and has become the major focus of all ecommerce players as it is a key growth driver. With a shift of towards profitability, fashion has become the de facto category to focus on drawing in online players of every shape and size. With nearly 50 per cent of all e-commerce transactions in India happening in the fashion, this category should be one of the most interesting to watch,’’ sums up Aditya Agarwal, Co-Founder, Campus Sutra. With a globe-trotting and tech-savvy customer profile of all ages looking for affordable yet trendy apparels, online retailing is fueling the growth of all fashion wear in general and casual wear in particular. Online brands that can go beyond just selling a product but instead build a story to establish a firm brand identity have a one-to-one relationship with their customers are more likely to thrive. However, the

Jack and Jones

“Online retail is simply an additional way of selling. E-commerce is the biggest platform that helps a brand connect with its customers across the country. This platform allows brands to be omnipresent, increases customer accessibility and helps brands remain relevant in the retail space as well. Every retail brand has realized over time that this industry cannot be dependent on just one channel. Brands across all platforms in India have started focusing on incorporating technology into in-store and online experiences and are making a headway in the right direction.’’ online retail segment is for now a niche little segment that needs to grow in leaps and bounds if it is to offer any real competition to the brick and mortar physical stores which are the mainstay of the retail sales in India.

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OM SAI MAA

DENIMS & CASUALS

VOL 16 No. 1

Denim

a publication by

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