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Similarly, the warm frisee and lardons look humble in the bowl, but punch way above their weight in flavor. Frisee is not what I’d call pretty. Basically, it’s the salad equivalent of a tumbleweed. Yet Franquette’s bowl of frisee, topped with lardon, poached egg and vinaigrette might be the best thing you can eat alongside a glass of dry rosé.

The vibe is pure casual. Seating can be haphazard and ordering is mostly at the counter. But the Franquette team went for a modern, almost industrial, feel. No fake Parisian trappings of zinc countertops and belle epoque décor.

Located on a corner, surrounded by West Sacramento’s Bridge District apartments, Franquette is the proper neighborhood bistro for this rising neighborhood. It’s simple appearance and seven-day-a-week spirit make it accessible and unpretentious, words most millennials would not attach to French eateries.

Franquette is at 965 Bridge St., No. 100, West Sacramento; hellofranquette. com.

Greg Sabin can be reached at gregsabin@hotmail.com. Previous reviews can be found and shared at InsideSacramento.com. Follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram: @insidesacramento. n