Gabrielle Myers joins Inside Sacramento this month as our new Farm to Fork columnist. Read more about Myers in this edition’s Meet Your Neighbor column.
Winn Pham Photo by Linda Smolek
Sea of Surprises SUNH FISH HOOKS PROS, HOME COOKS ALIKE
T
he cuttlefish’s pale broad body with its thick bone holds itself to the board as I grip the head and pull the knife away, lifting bone from body, releasing the black ink sack. Ink on my knife, ink on my hands, ink staining my mind with its ocean impression. An hour later cuttlefish pieces dance in a hot pan with fresh Aleppo pepper, black cherry tomato and Costata Romanesco zucchini just harvested from the garden. The curling edges sputter, spin against stainless steel, and lift and bend into hot, fragrant oil. Almost every Friday morning for the last six months I’ve made a pilgrimage to Sunh Fish, 1313 Broadway, drawn by succulent oysters, firm Hamachi and halibut glistening and opalescent from its recent ocean swim. Most days the octopus arms, smoked wild salmon, Hawaiian opah, fat scallops and yellowfin lure me with freshness. Yet cooking or simply slicing Sunh Fish’s more unusual fish and shellfish stand out as the most electrifying culinary experiences I’ve had in Sacramento.
GM By Gabrielle Myers Farm to Fork
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POC FEB n 22
