the city magazine of AUTUMN 2019 Year 19 #143 ISSN 1790-3114
Arts & Events • People • Culture • Travel • Style • Food & Drink
7042 L DT REL ECLIPSE LIMITED EDITION
Alos Eyewear Cabinet Four Seasons - Astir Palace Hotel, Athens 40 Apollonos Vouliagmeni, Athens
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Publisher Sudha Nair-Iliades Copy Editor Elena Panayides Graphic Design Roula Koronaiou Client Relations and Sales Eleni Kalogridou Varvara Giannikouli Accounts Dimosthenis Therianos Administrative Assistant Christina Kaouni Interns Claire Jeantheau, Sophia Sarro, Stephanie Wang Illustrations: Cover + Floral arrangement article: Daniel Egnéus Extreme Sports article: Lauren Rebbeck Fashion Co-ordinator Aristidis Zois Photos Robert McCabe, Giannis Seferos, Stephanie Wang, Nikos Karanikolas, Nikos Vardakastanis Angelos Giotopoulos, Old Town Editions, Jason Lloyd-Evans, German Larkin, Pavlos Davios, Ken Seet, Hello Magazine, Shutterstock Contributors in this Issue Elena Panayides, Katie Silcox, Ethel Dilouambaka, Cdr. Demetries Grimes Hospitality Media Services Lefteris Varelis Founder Steve Pantazopoulos Legal Counsel Christos Christopoulos Printing Grafima Website and Digital Marketing Webolution Subscriptions Athens Insider published in English in Greece € 20, Abroad € 40 Also published in French, Chinese (Mandarin), Russian and Turkish. To subscribe, email: info@insider-magazine.gr www.athensinsider.com www.bonjourathenes.fr Athens Insider is published quarterly and its brand, logo and all editorial content is held worldwide by: Insider Publications Ltd. located at Ermou 13, 166 71 Vouliagmeni, Greece Tel.: 210.729.8634 VAT: 099747145 E-mail: info@insider-magazine.gr Reproduction in whole or in part, by any means whatsoever, is forbidden except with the express written permission of the publisher. Although Athens Insider has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions it may contain. Athens Insider maintains a strict policy of editorial independence and preferential treatment is never guaranteed to advertisers. Athens Insider ISSN 1790-3114 Code: 216548 www.athensinsider.com
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publisher’s note I
n 2020, we’ll be celebrating 20 incredible years of bringing you everything culturally noteworthy both in and outside of Athens. We have so much to toast, and this issue taps into the ingenious zeitgeist that has successfully powered Athens as the hottest creative destination this season. It now seems that the intense emotion of the past decade has found new release. After having been starved off its magic dust for decades, the world is eager to embrace Athens’ cultural renaissance and rumbling energy. As if in a majestically synchronised choreography, a plethora of unrelated events propelled Athens firmly on centre stage this October. Globally acclaimed Mary Katrantzou’s SS 2020 show at the Temple of Poseidon was aptly described as ‘a celebration of a Greek past, that influences the present, to create something for the future.’ That same sentiment echoed with the opening of the much-anticipated Goulandris Foundation’s Museum of Modern Art. With the very first tickets gifted to local school children, Athens took its deserved place on the global modern art circuit. Mirroring the city’s own quest for its contemporary identity, Athens was also the chosen venue for artists from the Middle East focussing on conflict, identity and resilience. Angela Gerekou, the charismatic President of the Greek National Tourism Organisation recognizes the need to capitalize on this new momentum and create a ‘conscious, rethought’ strategy to entice high-quality tourism. While the shiny new Athens has its appeal, there are those like Michelin chef Nikos Karathanos that hanker for the city’s gritty charms and bustling chaos at the Central Market and others like Robert McCabe who lament Mykonos’ loss of innocence. As always, we hope you join in our enthusiasm for this ever-evolving and transforming city and find this issue one that informs, enlightens, surprises and delights. • Happy reading!
Sudha Nair-Iliades
contents
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CULTURE
PEOPLE
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Arts & Events Cultural highlights to look forward to this winter.
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Athens now has a Home for the Masters The Basil & Elise Goulandris Museum of Modern Art puts Athens firmly on the global art circuit.
Creating memories, leaving imprints Philippe Roux-Dessarps takes on the helm of the iconic Four Seasons Astir as General Manager and promises to breathe new life into the legendary destination.
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On the inside Elia Kentrota, Director of Public Relations, Four Seasons Astir on spending a perfect day at the hotel.
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A Marathon of Baby Steps Fleurette Karadontis shares the ‘marathon of baby steps’ towards the realisation of the Goulandris Museum for Modern Art.
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The Art of Displacement Lebanese-American artist Helen Zughaib explores identity and conflict.
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The forgotten history of the 122nd Infantry Battalion Cdr. Demetries Grimes recounts the exploits of the elite 122nd Infantry Batallion.
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Heralding a new era in Greek tourism Angela Gerekou, President of the Greek National Tourism Organization on unlocking Greece's tourism potential.
144 Kaleidoscope A satirical look by Dimitris Hantzopoulos at the year that was.
STYLE 78 An Exalted Collection in an Epic Setting Mary Katrantzou’s SS 2020 collection raises awareness for children with cancer in a setting truly fit for the Gods. 86
Holiday Pizzazz Fashion essentials for the festive season.
114 Magic Cabinet A treasure trove of curiosities.
S I N C E 1902 ATHENS • corner of 11, Voukourestiou & 8, El. Venizelou Street | KIFISSIA • 19, Kassaveti Street | MYKONOS • Santa Marina Resort and Villas, Ornos
www.venetiavildiridis.com
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CITY LIFE 54 5 lesser-known museums Get over your ‘marble overdose’ with these under-the-radar museums. 108 Pame Theatro! Theatre is alive and well in the land of Sophocles and Aristophanes.
122 7 bars for beer lovers in Athens The definitive Athens beer bar guide. 126 Autumn brunches & leaves Brunches that makes the weekend wait more than worth it. 130 The bars you’ll want to seek Speakeasy bars that locals treasure.
TRAVEL
134 Sanctuary for the Senses Soak in the lake’s temperate waters all year round.
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116 On a foodie trail with Chef Nikos Karathanos Nikos Karathanos, Greece's youngest Michelin star takes us on a foodie trail through Athinas.
68 How we will travel in 2020 The most important shifts in travel.
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FOOD & DRINK
The Sensual Artistry of Four Seasons' Floral Fantasies A laboratory for creative floristry
70 Taking it to the Extremes in Greece For an adrenaline-filled holiday, take to the skies or plunge the depths of oceans. 74
5 reasons why you should visit Nafplio Greece's first capital is well worth a visit and we tell you why.
102 Mykonos, an island that once was Robert McCabe’s black and white images are a precious reminder of just how much has been lost and how much is still worth saving.
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Cover illustration by Daniel Egnéus
112 All that jazz The Half Note Jazz Club celebrates its fortieth birthday in style.
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S I N C E 1902 ATHENS • corner of 11, Voukourestiou & 8, El. Venizelou Street | KIFISSIA • 19, Kassaveti Street | MYKONOS • Santa Marina Resort and Villas, Ornos
www.venetiavildiridis.com
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PHILIPPE ROUX-DESSARPS, GM FOUR SEASONS ASTIR
O Creating memories, leaving imprints
n the day of our interview, I watch as Philippe Roux-Dessarps criss-crosses the sprawling Four Seasons complex, doing countless rounds of the property’s two hotels, Nafsika and Arion. Like all seasoned hoteliers, he seems gifted with great observation skills, razor-sharp in moving from the big picture to the minutest of details in the blink of an eye. That innate professionalism also comes through when he pauses to personally assist a guest check-in, and as he intuitively re-adjusts a coaster placed for our water glasses. Only acutely aware of the expectations riding on him and the property, Philippe Roux-Dessarps comes across as a man ready to take on the challenge to deliver a world-class destination at Four Season’s flagship hotel in Greece.
Philippe Roux-Dessarps takes on the helm of the iconic Four Seasons Astir as General Manager, crowning a 25-year career in over ten countries, across three continents. He brings his brand of people-focussed hospitality to the hotel, promising exciting new activities to breathe new life into this legendary destination athens insider |6|
Welcome to Athens. As a French hotelier with 25 years of experience across Asia, the US and Europe, how exciting and challenging is your posting as General Manager at this iconic Four Seasons property? I always knew since I was 14, that I wanted to be a hotelier. My parents were taken by surprise, as no one in the family was in the hospitality industry. But I was lucky to travel with my parents and I always enjoyed staying at hotels. I thought what was interesting about hotels was that, in
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ARION EXTERIOR, FOUR SEASONS ASTIR
As you know, Four Seasons Astir has had a special place in the hearts of Athenians. There is a lot of nostalgia tinged with extremely high expectations. How do you hope to meet the ‘longing for the good old days’ with the ‘new, fresh approach’ that Four Seasons hopes to inject? I think this property is actually more interesting as there is a lot of richness, a lot of stories and history. I find it more exciting than walking into a brand-new hotel that has just been designed as some skyscraper somewhere by someone who just designs new hotels. I think this property is far more interesting. Its fun, but there is more depth in the opportunity with this position and with this assignment. And talking to all these people who have been here for decades – what’s wonderful is that the vast majority of them like what they see now. The transformaathens insider |7|
tion was really to their liking and they love what has been done – which is wonderful and it is very rare. If you look at other iconic hotels that have been renovated, often you have a designer who wants to make a statement and does so at the expense of the history of the hotel. In this case, it looks like it really worked.
We leave imprints in people’s lives forever. I love hearing all the rich stories of people who tell me, “I proposed to my wife here or got married here.” It's far more interesting than being in a new hotel where you have to write a new story from scratch. Have you been to Greece before? What struck you about working in Greece?. I came to Greece ten years ago with my family. And it gave me the opportunity to leave the grey clouds of the UK and to come down to Greece. Now that I’m here I can really see this
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essence, it was the same job wherever you were based. I have worked in ten different countries in three continents and have had the pleasure of living diverse experiences, working with very distinctive cultures. You have hotels all over the world and it gives you the opportunity to travel and that is what I was looking for. And that is what I enjoy the most. So, this is a new challenge and it’s great, it’s exciting. It’s exactly what I’m seeking.
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AVRA VIEW FROM NAFSIKA LOBBY
as a perfect destination where you are just a few hours away from those dark skies. I have been here for less than two months. My first contact with Greece was the hotel and I found the staff very warm, friendly and though it was within the hotel environment, it reflects the local culture. I know that people are very emotional in this country and everything happens with emotion, which is wonderful. I’ve seen great smiles and wonderful attitude in people which I’ve also seen in the few opportunities I’ve had interacting with people outside the hotel. How can you not be friendly when you have blue skies and sunshine?
ARION LOBBY
What do you think that you can offer at this very critical phase? There is a wonderful, talented team here that I found when I came here. My role as a General Manager is to enable a team to work efficiently and to be there and provide the best experience for guests. This is very much what I’m here for.
The hotel has been extremely busy and very well-received by everyone. And so, now is the time to demonstrate that the hotel is a winter destination. We have a lot of activities planned at the spa and at our restaurants with guest chefs, and we're really creating a buzz about it. Watch this space, there will be some fun things happening! athens insider |8|
Your management mantra? I’m an enabler. I’m humbled and thrilled to work with some very exceptional people. That is the part that I really enjoy. The other part that I really enjoy is getting all these guest comments, often some that are very touching. We create unique memories in people’s lives. There is no other job that is as rewarding. As a hotelier, what do you look for in a holiday experience? Can you ever relax on a holiday or is your hotelier brain constantly taking mental notes? This is the biggest mistake I made in my life. I decided to become a hotelier because I thought it would be great to work in a luxury environment where everything is well-kept and service is wonderful. So, in a way, I thought I’d be on holiday all the time. But in fact, it’s really hard to switch your hotelier brain off.
I’m an enabler. I’m here to help people in my team to do their best in what they do, to innovate in delivering the highest standards of customer service and to help them grow in their careers.
Four Seasons Astir is a unique resort in Europe. There is nothing like it. The location is second to none. You’re three hours away from London, the hotel is close to a very efficient airport and it has amazing architecture and wonderful design. This is a resort where you can have so many different experiences, between the laid-back luxury of the bungalows, the elegant suites at Arion, the boho-chic vibe at Nafsika and all the choices of restaurants and bars. I think a combination of all that with the renowned service that the brand is famous for is going to be the Four Seasons experience. You recently acquired a private pilot licence. Have you had time to take to the Greek skies? I have flown a few times at the Tatoi Flying Club and we flew over these spectacularly beautiful locales. Leisure aviation is not as developed in Greece as it is in the US but I noticed a genuine willingness to change that.
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The deal-breaker for you would be….. Hotels function on some very basic values of care and respect. It’s that simple. At the end of the day, people want to be cared for and respected. I think if we fulfill those basic values with our guests, we’re definitely on the right track. To answer your question, if you’re not caring and you’re disrespectful, that’d be the deal breaker. If the glass is in the wrong position, it is because the person wasn’t caring enough or respectful enough. Hotels are complex businesses, they rely on all the integral and interconnecting parts working in sync. You can sense that when you walk into a lobby, the way people look at each other – it is like watching a symphony orchestra. Are they playing together or is there discord? When I first walked into the lobby after a long sixteen-hour flight from Chicago in sweltering August, I vividly remember this feeling of peace wash over me.
©Illustration by Daniel Egnéus
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THE SENSUAL ARTISTRY OF FOUR SEASONS’ FLORAL FANTASIES athens insider | 10 |
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Walk into any Four Seasons in the world and one of the first things that strikes you is the floral magnificence on display, combining a rare hybrid of skills that include botanical artistry, floral set dressing and intricate engineering. At Four Seasons Astir, Studio 7 have converted the lobbies and public spaces into a laboratory for imaginative floristry, creating immersive experiences which defy belief and inspire awe.
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ŠPhotos courtesy of Studio 7
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ince opening its first hotel in 1961, the hospitality chain has delighted guests all over the globe with its ornate flower arrangements, setting standards in floral design with its astounding, vibrant, vernal aesthetic. The philosophy at Four Seasons has been that by providing guests with thoughtful, artistic arrangements of fresh flowers, it demonstrates its commitment to its clients and injects an extra burst of whimsy and elation into the travel experience. The floral arrangements at Four Seasons Athens are the masterful handiwork of Studio 7 who challenge the preconceived use of flowers, plants and nature. Its monochrome yet rich, colourful evocative compositions are stunning artworks that captivate with their fragile, ethereal beauty and sculptural sensibility. The creative vibe at Studio 7 is that of a wonderful kaleidoscope of colours and fragrances, a brilliant group of people, committed to creating images of immense beauty since 1977. Studio 7’s projects range from flower styling and set design, to events and large-scale installations. “We are truly honoured and happy to be part of the Four Seasons legend and be able to bring
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to life unique flower creations that are becoming a hallmark of the property. This exclusive collaboration gives us the opportunity to express our creativity in the most liberating way and at the same time contribute to the elevation of Greece’s renowned hospitality. The sublime environment at Four Seasons has become the perfect canvas for Studio 7 creations and a validation of our ingenuity and accomplishment.� So, regardless of what the name Four Seasons may suggest, you can always head down to this iconic hotel chain for an eternal glimpse of spring!
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The beauty of floristry is fleeting, impermanent and it is this timetrapped aspect that lends it its tragic, romantic appeal. Floral artists take their most fragrantly seductive creations and draw them towards the world of contemporary art. Now, a generation of artists working with flowers is blooming – and floral designers are being pushed into new realms of creativity, blurring the line between art and floristry from both sides.
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On the inside It goes without saying that as a guest at Athens’ Four Seasons Astir Palace, you’re set to have a wonderful time. But to really help you enjoy it, let us take you on a journey through the hotel via the eyes of an insider. Katie Silcox asks Elia Kentrota, Director of Public Relations, how she would spend her perfect day at the hotel. After all, who knows the hotel better than her?
Here’s what Elia recommends:
• All good days start with a hearty breakfast, and I love the Kagiana at Pelagos. This traditional egg and tomato breakfast dish is served fresh, just like my Giagiá used to make it. Choose a window or balcony seat and take your time over a relaxed breakfast and coffee. • Next, take your towel and your favourite book to the private Zolo-
tas Beach and enjoy the early morning sea air. Thanks to our location on the Athens Riviera, soaking up the sun on this beach really does feel like you’re on a Greek island. The weather at this time of year is just perfect for a beach day; it’s not too hot and not too cold. Order some drinks and snacks and spend the morning here.
• The best lunch spot after a morning on the beach is Taverna 37. This rustic beach front taverna serves traditional Greek cuisine, and you can go from beach to dining still in your swimwear! athens insider | 16 |
trantzou and Zeus and Dione. You can also stock up on Prada sunglasses and Louis Vuitton dresses, as well as indulge in some serious buys at Rolex, Chopard and Cartier.
• For a special sundown, head to Avra for sunset drinks. Watching as the sun dips into the island-dotted Aegean Sea really is something. I honestly believe it’s the best location in Athens to enjoy the sunset. • Finally, the last spot for a perfect day
is dinner at Mercato, our authentic Italian trattoria. You can choose from antipasti, pizza, pasta, and more - all paired wonderfully with our range of fine wines. For me, it’s the homemade pizza and the tiramisu that take my heart - and my tastebuds! Oh, and keep your eye out for appearances from global guest chefs and culinary experiences coming to Mercato soon!
SPA AVRA
TAVERNA 37
Mercato
BENAKI PAVILLION
• After a morning soaking up the sun’s rays, a visit to our spa for a • For a culture-filled afternoon without leaving the hotel, take a tour of our art collection. We have more than 2,000 pieces, most of which have been designed and created by Greek contemporary artists. They’re dotted all over the hotel and really shouldn’t be missed! Visit the Benaki Museum Pavilion too, it’s an outlet of the central Athens museum. Here you’ll find a contemporary concept store with roots in Greek mythology - the perfect place to shop for jewellery and unique Greek-inspired gifts to take back home. • I love shopping, so my perfect day would also take in our boutiques. Our collections are really quite something. Peruse prêt-à-porter and haute couture fashion. Don’t miss Greek designers such as Mary Ka-
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facial is a must. I recommend the Restore Organic Facial.
What to do in Athens
Arts & Events Akrithakis’ Tsiki Tsiki WHAT: The Benaki Museum presents an exhibition of Akrithakis’ work, dedicated to, the “tsiki-tsiki”, a lace-like artistic format that became one of one of Akrithakis’ most recognisable techniques. This exhibition marks the 80th anniversary of Akrithakis’ birth, and 25 years since his passing, and will showcase the creation and development of his works. WHEN: Until November 17, 2019 WHERE: Koumpari 1 & Vas. Sofias Tel: +30 210 367 1000
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ARTS & EVENTS
The Phantom of the Opera WHAT: Based on Le Fantôme de l'Opéra by Gaston Leroux, Andrew Lloyd Webber's gothic spectacle with its powerful, musical score remains one of the greatest musicals of all time. The action follows the dramatic stand-off between beautiful soprano Christine, her lover Raoul, and the mysterious masked figure who dwells beneath the Opera House. Phantom has played in 166 cities around the world and comes to Athens for the first time.
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WHEN: February 1 to 9, 2020 WHERE: Galatsi Olympic Hall, 137 Veikou Avenue, Galatsi Tel: +30 211 770 1700 www.viva.gr
Christian Zervos & Cahiers d’Art: The Archaic Turn WHAT: Described as ‘one of the great unknown figures of art history’, Christian Zervos, publisher and critic of Greek origin, founder of the avant-garde journal Cahiers d’art (19261960) and the gallery and publishing house of the same name, which among other things had the exclusive rights to publish and promote the paintings of Pablo Picasso, was responsible for connecting Greece with the crème de la crème of modernism. The exhibition is directly linked to the research programme of the French School at Athens, entitled “Christian Zervos au miroir de la Grèce”. WHEN: From December 12 until March 1, 2020 WHERE: Benaki Museum,Pireuos 138 & Adronikou, Athens Tel: +30. 210.367.1000, benaki.gr athens insider | 20 |
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ARTS & EVENTS
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Jannis Varelas: Anima I
WHAT: Jannis Varelas enlists friends to pose with everyday objects from the Historical Collections of the Benaki Museum and transmits the resulting photographs to canvas in his trademark kaleidoscopic explosion. Co-produced by the Onassis Cultural Centre, the
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Guy Manoukian with Antonis Remos WHAT: Concert pianist and composer Guy Manoukian performs at the SNFCC with Antonis Remos. Expect Lebanese and Armenian notes reflecting his heritage, western dance beats and funky riffs. The veteran artist has played gigs everywhere from the London Palladium to Sydney Opera House. WHEN: November 11 at 7.30 pm WHERE: SNFCC, 364 Syngrou Avenue, Kallithea Tel: +30 213 088 5700 snfcc.org
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works at Anima I are grouped around themes of solitude, sexuality, rejection and loss. WHEN: Until November 17 WHERE: Benaki Museum, 138 Pireos, Tel: +30 210 367 1000 benaki.gr
2nd Athens International Children's and Teenage Film Festival WHAT: The Athens International Children's and Teenage Film Festival returns for a second year with an even richer and exciting program for viewers of all ages, from November 18 to 24. The Athens Concert Hall and Danaos Cinema host animated film premierwwes and live action, specials for toddlers, baby-friendly screenings, and a section dedicated to young viewers' live dubbing. WHEN: November 18 to 24 WHERE: Megaron Mousikis, Vas. Sofias Avenue and Kokkalis. Tel: +30.210.728 2333 megaron.gr
Irish Stand Up Comedy WHAT: Get ready for a re-run of last year's rip-roaringly funny Irish Stand Up Comedy with two of Ireland’s biggest-named, London-based comedians Rory O'Hanlon and Peter Flanagan performing. As last year, Niamh Marron will return to MC and perform some of her new material. For two nights only. Book ahead to avoid disappointment. WHEN: November 27 and 28, from 9 to 11 pm WHERE: Faust, Kalamiotou 11, Athens www.buytickets.at/greekirishsociety athens insider | 22 |
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ΗERITΑGE COLLECTION Lion Rings in the four colors of Gold
ARTS & EVENTS
Nature meets art WHAT: In a beautifully mystical exhibition, the Benaki Museum Shop explores art and nature through the eyes and work of Maria Grigoriou. Maria’s whimsical designs will whisk you away to a fairytale land. WHEN: Until October 23, 2019 WHERE: Benaki Museum Shop, Kriezotou 3, Tel: +30 210 363 0204, benaki.gr
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Fireworks on a Fine Universe
Lynda Benglis | In the Realm of the Senses
WHAT: The exhibition at Eleni Marneri Galerie presents a new generation of Greek and international designers who dedicate their work to the world of fine jewellery, creating artworks of unparalleled force and timelessness.
WHAT: NEON presents Lynda Benglis, an American artist of Greek origin, best known for her use of poured sculptural forms made from wax, latex, metal, and foam In the Realm of the Senses, curated by art historian Dr. David Anfam at the Museum of Cycladic Art. This is Benglis’ first solo exhibition in Greece - she lives and works between New York, Santa Fe, Kastelorizo and Ahmedabad in India.
WHEN: Opening: November 29 to January 18, 2020 WHERE: Eleni Marneri Galerie, 5-7 Lebessi & 16 Porinou St, Makriyanni. Tel: +30 210 8619488 elenimarneri.com
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WHEN: From November 22 to March 15, 2020 WHERE: Neofytou Douka 4, Tel: +30. 210.722.8321, cycladic.gr
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vhernier.com
8, Voukourestiou St. Athens
ARTS & EVENTS
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Bryan Adams: Shine A Light Athens WHAT: The Canadian rock icon tours the world with his latest LP, Shine A Light, and he's making a stop in Athens. Relive your memories through Adams' hit singles that ruled the airwaves in the '80s and '90s. WHEN: November 18, 2019; 20:30 WHERE: OAKA Basketball Arena, 37 Kifisias Avenue, Marousi Tel: +30 210 683 4060 For tickets: stubhub.gr
AthensCon 2019 WHAT: Action hero geeks unite! AthensCon 2019 touches down at the Faliro Olympic Indoor Hall over an action-packed weekend in November, bringing comic book culture centre-stage and uniting pop culture geeks of all ages. Meet international writers and designers revered for their work on famous franchises from DC, Disney and Marvel. Gorge on free-play new video games and board games, or pick up a new creative skill at specialist seminars. Star guests this year include Marvel writer and X-Men creator Chris Claremont who's penned some of the best-selling comic books of all time, Deadpool’s Stefan Kapicic and Watchmen writer and artist David Gibbons.
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WHEN: November 30 - December 1 from 10.30am to 10pm WHERE: Tae Kwon Do Stadium, Faliro Tel: +30 210 963 6489 athenscon.gr
ARTS & EVENTS
16 Aegean Desert
WHAT: On first inspection the Aegean Sea and the Qatari Desert don’t seem to have much in common. By placing images of the sea and the sand dunes next to each other in his new exhibition, Prince Nikolaos asks us to explore the beauty, similarities, and individual elements of both. This exhibition will be showcased in both Athens and in the Qatari capital city, Doha.
WHEN: Until January 19, 2020 WHERE: Benaki Museum of Islamic Art, Asomatos 22 &, Dipilou 12 Tel: +30 21 0325 1311 benaki.gr
Stock Images by Panos Kokkinias for NEON
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WHAT: Panos Kokkinias’ collective photographic portrait of Athens marks the sixth edition of NEON's City Project initiative, where Greek artists are invited to activate public places and historical sights in Athens through site-specific installations of contemporary art. Stock Images, his latest project, is made up of more than 20 images that will be seen together for the first time. WHEN: September 16 to November 3 WHERE: 3rd floor, Sofokleous 4 neon.org.gr
Peter Pan by The Black Theatre of Prague WHAT: This classic show truly has everything, from pirates and fairies to hungry crocodiles, so lose yourself in this child-like fantasy. WHEN: January 3 to January 5 WHERE: Galatsi Olympic Hall Veikou Avenue 137, Galatsi Tel: +30 211 770 1700 viva.gr
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KOLONAKI 15 Skoufa str. 10673 Kolonaki, Athens +30 210 3635600
KIFISIA 11 Kolokotroni str. 14562 Kifisia, Athens +30 210 8016641
FOUR SEASONS ASTIR PALACE HOTEL 40 Apollonos str. 16671 Vouliagmeni, Athens
LU I SAWO R L D.C O M
MYKONOS Nammos Village Psarou +30 2289 022015
BOTTEGA VENETA 14 Kolokotroni str. 14562 Kifisia, Athens +30 210 8085182
ARTS & EVENTS
Qi Baishi, The Mysterious East
Piaf - A Life in Light and Shadow WHAT: Piaf - A Life in Light and Shadow, celebrates the life of the legendary French chanteuse whose soulful, deep voice and personal life fascinates fans to date.
WHAT: Qi Baishi was one of the most well-known contemporary Chinese painters. The subjects of his paintings include almost everything, common animals, scenery, figures, vegetables, and so on. In his later years, many of his works depict mice, shrimps, or birds.
WHEN: January 25, 2020, 8pm WHERE: Galatsi Olympic Hall (Christmas Theater), 137 Veikou Avenue, Galatsi, Tel: +30 211 770 1700 viva.gr
WHEN: From November 12 to January 12, 2020 WHERE: B & M Theocharakis Foundation Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Tel: +30 210 3611206 thf.gr
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KinderDocs
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WHAT: Discover the magic of documentaries, explore new ways of communication, get inspired by stories we all care about and have fun at the fourth edition of KinderDocs – the documentary festival of award-winning films made for children and teenagers. Each film is a story on teenage life – friendship, family, education, social media, creativity, art, music, dance, psychology, migration, environment – an opportunity to enter the colourful world of kids and teenagers, a platform for constructive dialogue WHEN: Until April 2020 WHERE: Benaki Museum, Pireos 138 Tel: +30.210.367.1000, kinderdocs.com
The Countless Aspects of Beauty
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WHAT: Over 300 pieces from the National Archaeological Museum’s collection explore the eternal human quest for beauty. WHEN: May 25 - December 31, 2019. WHERE: National Archaeological Museum, Patission 44 Tel: +30 213 214 4856 namuseum.gr
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ARTS & EVENTS
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Jannis Psychopedis: Painting Meets Poetry WHAT: A major retrospective exhibition dedicated to Jannis Psychopedis, featuring large groups of works that reference, were inspired by, and engage with poets and their poetics. Jannis Psychopedis’ relationship with poetry is profound, long-lasting, systematic, continuous and tested down the years. A visual conversation with Homer and his Odyssey, Parmenides, Herodas, Calvos, Byron, Palamas, Cavafy, Karyotakis, Lorca, Seferis, Elytis, Ritsos, Embirikos, Sachtouris, Dimoula, Fostieris, Vlavianos, Kyparissis, Metaxas and Siotis. WHEN: Until January 12, 2020 WHERE: SNFCC, Syngrou Ave 364, Tel: +30 216.8091000, snfcc.org
Makis Theofylaktopoulos WHAT: The human form and its relationship with space predominates in the largest part of his oeuvre. He embarked on exploring the diverse stages of this relationship, by using as starting point, the Motorcyclist, his older and most popular subject matter; in some cases, this figure rep- resents an intimidating symbol of authority, while other times, it signifies a speed addict, who is a victim himself. The external depiction of the moving figure is gradually replaced by a sense of motion within painting itself. This emerging aspect of his personal idiom would become the key to his future development. His figures are usually recognizable and they often stand alone in space, while less frequently, they coexist with few more figures. Athens
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WHEN: Until January 25, 2020 WHERE: Citronne Gallery, 9 Patriarchou Ioakim, Tel: +30.210.723.5226, citronne.com
12 Angry Men
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WHEN: Until January 19, 2020; 21:30 WHERE: Alkmini Theatre, 8-12 Alkminis, Tel: +30 210 342 8650, viva.gr
WHAT: “It explodes like 12 sticks of dynamite.” So declares the poster for the original movie release of this famous 1957 courtroom drama starring Henry Fonda. More than six decades later, 12 Angry Men has lost little of its impact (once you get over the anachronistic absence of any female jury members). In a New York City courthouse, a sixteen-year-old boy from a slum is on trial for allegedly stabbing his father to death. His fortune is in the hands of the 12 jury members, who must remain locked in a room until they can agree on a verdict. If found guilty, he faces the death penalty. A fascinating examination of the power of one person to incite change. See it with English sur-titles at the Alkmini Theatre every Thursday.
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CULTURE
Athens now has a Home for the Masters
ŠGiannis Seferos
Elena Panayides on why the sumptuous and well-conceived Basil and Elise Goulandris Museum of Modern Art will change Athens forever
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"The Greek Designers Store," is a concept multi-brand store, that hosts the most reputable and sophisticated local designers. From jewelry to fashion designs, you can find everything you need, and bring back home a taste of ancient heritage of products that are inspired by Greek history and philosophy. Among all designers, you can find famous Greek brands like "Konstantino"- "Ilias Lalaounis"- "Ioanna Kourbela" -"Ancient Greek Sandals" -"Thalassa Collection" - "Alexandra Tsoukala" - "Pearl&Caviar" - "Sophia Thinking" and many many more.
www.greek-designers.com STORE LOCATIONS @"Athens Airport' 1.Main Terminal Building – Schengen Area 2.Satellite Terminal Building
the_greek_designers_store The Greek Designers Store
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“Love many things, for therein lies the true strength, and whosoever loves much performs much, and can accomplish much, and what is done in love is done well.” Vincent Van Gogh Van Gogh dreamt of painting and painted his dreams, the same could be said of Basil and Elise Goulandris, who with unwavering vision and passion spent their lifetime celebrating and collecting some of the finest contemporary and modern art masterpieces in the world, with the aspiration of sharing their splendour with their beloved Greece and more specifically, its capital Athens. Their carefully curated personal art collection was a result of their unrelenting passion for the arts and the personal and close relationships the Goulandris’ built with art galleries, rising artists and art collectors of the time. During their lifetime, they opened their family and friends’ hearts and minds to art, making these masterpieces part of their everyday life as a living and breathing presence and this sensation is recreated for visitors in their new and massive gift of a museum. The art isn’t there to be revered, it’s there waiting for interactions, discussions and the building of a lifelong relationship with the arts, in the same way as Basil and Elise offer a glimpse of their psyche with their collection.
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01. Paul Gauguin (1848-1903) Still Life with Grapefruit | 1901 or 1902 Oil on canvas | 66X76.5 cm
This sublime collection of over 800 masterpieces of contemporary and modern art,valued at over $3billion, was a result of their unrelenting passion for the arts and the personal and close relationships the Goulandris’ built with many of the rising artists and art collectors of their time.
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02. Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) Nude Woman with Raised Arms | 1907 Oil on canvas | 150X100 cm 03. Marc Chagall (1887-1985) Portrait of E.B.G. | 1969 Oil on canvas | 92.5X73.5 cm © Adagp, Paris, 2019 / OSDEETE Athens 2019
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Basil and Elise’s first massive art donation, was to create Greece’s first Museum of Contemporary Arts in 1979 at Goulandris’ birthplace on Andros. Just a couple of years later, the Archaeological Museum of Andros was founded and funded by the philanthropist couple. However, it was with their lifelong desire to house and display their vast modern and contemporary art collection for the public, that the real problems began. The first construction site was established on Rigillis Street in Kolonaki, but soon after work was halted for good, thanks to the discovery of Aristotle’s Lyceum. A second site at Rizari Park was later rejected due to residents’ objections. When the current location on Eratosthenous Street was found in 2009, this time it was underground water that significantly slowed down progress. However, the Foundation’s President, Fleurette Karadontis, cites the Greek proverb of ‘every obstacle is for the best’ as the original sites would have hosted an I.M Pei designed building, which would have been an architectural gem for athens insider | 39 |
04. Auguste Rodin (1840-1917) Eternal Springtime | 1884 Bronze with brown patina | 66X83X42 cm
Athens but the running costs would have been sky-high. Instead, their vast patience and perseverance paid off as is evident in the stunning building in the Athenian neighbourhood of Pangrati. Already popular with tourists and Airbnbers thanks to its proximity to the Panathenaic stadium and its bohemian vibe, Eratosthenous Street is witnessing an overnight gentrification thanks to the museum. The neighbouring and imposing St. Spyridonas church now also has a LED illuminated square with park benches and water fountains for humans and pets! Unfortunately, the various obstacles weren’t resolved before Mr. Goulandris passed away in 1994, followed by his beloved wife in 2000. The El Grecos, Monets, Kandinskys, Bacons, Braques, Warhols and Degas gathered dust in storage for years, their voices muted by human frailty and thorny issues. There is certainly a sadness that they passed away before they could revel at the opening night of their great cultural gift to Athens, but the moving Chagall portrait of Elise, is the first welcome one receives when entering the museum. Their dream is
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05. Alberto Giacometti (1901-1966) Woman of Venice V | 1956 Bronze with brown and green patina, 0/6 112X31.4X14 cm Š Succession Alberto Giacometti (Fondation Alberto et Annette Giacometti, Paris + Adagp, Paris) 2019 / OSDEETE Athens 2019 06. View of the exhibition room on the floor, including works by Anselm Kiefer 07. Francis Bacon (1909-1992) Three Studies for Self-Portrait | 1972 Oil on canvas, in three parts 35.5X30.5 cm each Š The Estate of Francis Bacon /All rights reserved / Adagp, Paris and DACS, London 2019 / OSDEETE Athens 2019
propelled into the future by the next generation - through the vision and perseverance of their niece, Fleurette Karadontis. The aim of the museum is for it to be a hub for education, expression and cultural communication for both locals and the masses of tourists that will be flocking to pay homage to this incredible art collection. Fleurette Karadontis hopes that visitors will come again and again, so as not to miss the many narratives this collection has to share. The works from the vast collection will be rotated often and there will be future visiting exhibitions too. The intention is to make the visitor comfortable enough to want to share the experience with their children and to foster a real closeness with the arts.
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The Greeks are of course known for their dramas and tragedies, athens insider | 40 |
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Š Christophoros Doulgeris
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08. Roy Lichtenstein (1923-1997) Nude with White Flower, collage for “Nude with Yellow Flower” | 1994 Tape, pencil, acrylic paint, marker and printed paper on board 78X61 cm © Estate of Roy Lichtenstein New York / Adagp, Paris, 2019 / OSDEETE Athens 2019
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but there is also an eternal perseverance and hope that is evinced by the B&E Goulandris Foundation too. Art lovers from around the world can now marvel at a breathtakingly gorgeous space that showcases a collection featuring many of the masters: Cezanne, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Monet, Degas, Rodin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Bonnard, Picasso, Miró, Braque, Giacometti, El Greco as well as their Greek counterparts: Parthenis, Vassiliou, Hadjikyriakos-Ghika, Moralis, Tetsis and Bouzianis. These greats are all in the spotlight, in the Hall of the Masters, where they gaze stoically at one another as if conversing and sharing their tales of inspiration, voyages and artistic genius. These masterpieces now share the same air, not in Paris or Rome or New York, but in Athens. One senses that they are at peace, in their new home, adjacent to the Panathenaic stadium and a just a stroll away from the majesty of the Acropolis that casts its golden shadow over a city whose heart is now pulsating more artistically than ever before. “I feel that there is nothing more truly artistic than to love people.” Vincent Van Gogh.
This won’t be a stuffy and exclusionary space; instead the 7,250 square meters, 11-floor venue will be a liberal and inclusive realm that will host regular, free workshops for kids and adults, readings in a stunning light-filled library with over 6000 of Basil and Elises’ personal art books, events in the slick museum restaurant, the state-ofthe-art amphitheatre and even, a small recording studio.
Opening hours: Tuesdays to Sundays from 10am to 6pm, on Fridays from 10am to 10pm. Closed on Mondays. 13 Eratosthenous, Athens. Tel: +30 210 72 52 895, goulandris.gr
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09. Works by Joan Miró, Degas and Rodin on the first floor of the exhibition | Classics of Modern Art
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Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghika (1906-1994) Balcony with Horizontal Pilasters | 1954 Oil on canvas | 129.5X89 cm
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Constantinos Parthenis (1878-1967) Harmony 1930, Oil on canvas | 140X180 cm
DomĂŠnikos TheotokĂłpoulos (El Greco) (1541-1614) The Veil of Saint Veronica | Early1580s Oil on canvas | 51X66 cm
Jannis Kounellis (1936-2017) Untitled, 1983 Oil on paper | 98X128 cm
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Costas Tsoclis (1930- ) Tree | 1989 Acrylic on panel and canvas 202X133 cm
ŠGiannis Seferos
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In her 11th floor office of the Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation in Pangrati, Fleurette Karadontis, shares the ‘marathon of baby steps’ that have brought her and her colleagues to the realisation of a 25-year vision, the opening of the Foundation’s Museum for Contemporary and Modern Art in Athens. On her bookshelves, leather-bound tomes with years embossed in gold on their spine, archive the lives and love of art and family, of her Uncle Basil and Aunt Elise. They tell a story that she shares candidly and passionately, one that’s also reflected in the magnificent masterpieces housed in the floors below. In conversation with with Elena Panayides and Sudha Nair-Iliades.
How do you feel now that the museum has taken its final shape and form and is open to the public? Do you believe it will establish Athens on the global art circuit? We’re absolutely thrilled. I think even we didn’t quite expect how warmly people would receive it. It’s overwhelming for us, because I think we opened at a time when people were hungry for this kind of space. Greece has a very booming contemporary visual arts scene, but it’s not easy to start there. You have to start somewhere else in order to get there and I think that Greeks and foreigners have really opened their hearts to the museum and to the fact that it is available to them to be viewed again and again. Here, they can keep coming come back to see a work and something else will catch their eye. Maybe because they’re in a different mood, maybe because it’s a rainy day, but something else will attract their attention. I think that’s what this museum is all about. You’re helping people open their hearts and minds to the visual arts. It sounds like you envision the museum as more of a community centre, with open doors and interactive activities. You grew up with Basil and Elise and walking into their homes, not their museums. Is this what you’re trying to replicate here? Elise and Basil were incredibly private people, they were very discreet
and that’s how they trained all of us, so we always tried to keep their vision, their way of doing things. Of course, in our time its less easy, because of social media, and everyone voices an opinion, merited or not! At the time Basil and Elise were alive, there wasn’t any of that. There were just private people, private lives and what they did was their business. They were almost shy, low-key, warm and hospitable people. They loved talking about their art. They loved hosting dinners and parties and having people over. Their dream, because they loved their country so much, and they could see that there was a very big gap in what was available for people to see, was for the collection to be accessible to people. Some of these works are exceptional, they are not just works of art, in some respects, it’s the very quintessence of art. They really wanted people to love them as they did and to be able to see them, to not be intimidated by it.
Traditionally, the visual arts have been a bit of a closed chapter, intimidating. We didn’t want the museum to be inaccessible - that is something we’re going to work towards throughout our existence. At the end of the day, the visual arts aren’t just about seeing, they’re about feeling. A lot of people who see visual arts, think ‘I don’t like that’ or ‘It’s stupid,’ but they don’t feel comfortable in expressing it, which sometimes is what the artist intended. You see a work by Kiefer and he wanted to show his disgust for war, the disgust for strife and somebody may see it and say, ‘its gross,’ when in actual fact, they’re feeling exactly what the artist wanted them to feel. Art is not just about intellectually getting it, it’s about feeling what the artist wanted you to feel. What was it like when you walked into Elise and Basil’s apartments? It was very much a home for them, and for us at the time, with some extra nice pictures on the walls. They rotated the paintings quite often, once a year certainly, in all their homes. What was really nice was the fact that they talked about the art. It wasn’t just ‘the
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leurette Karadontis is at her desk, just a couple of euphoric days after the much-awaited opening of the museum. Orange and green post-its lie strewn in a corner, almost abstractly colour-coordinated to match the imposing Rauschenberg that hangs behind her. Even on a cloudy, autumnal day, the room floods in with that clarity of light that one only finds in Greece – and the Acropolis frames her office view. Her mobile phone rings incessantly – as a mother of two and as President of the Goulandris Foundation’s Modern Art Museum, she says it has been a relentless juggling act to follow. Her vision of making the museum ‘an open, welcoming space’ is something that comes through, as does her steely determination to make the museum not just an esoteric stop on the art-lovers circuit, but ‘a playground where future generations of Greeks can grow up under the gaze of the Masters’. The conversation flows freely as she recounts her childhood, the informal dinner-table debates on art, and of sitting on some of the chairs that are now part of the exhibit! Fleurette Karadontis in conversation with Elena Panayides and Sudha Nair-Iliades
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Vincent van Gogh (1853-1890) Olive Picking | Oil on canvas | 73.5 × 92.5 cm
Rauschenberg is there, and the TV is here,’ we’d be having breakfast and suddenly one of them would say ‘Oh gosh, look at that corner, is that a person looking out of the window?’ Everybody would start talking about the painting, it was part of our daily conversation. It was all about living the art, it wasn’t ‘this is high art, we don’t talk about it’.
It was always an experience in their various houses around the world, because each one had its distinct character. So, in Paris, there were all these incredible pieces of furniture, some of which you can see in the decorative arts gallery. Almost all of which has a rich history behind them, but for us they were chairs we sat on! Even we, as children, were very much encouraged to voice an opinion and sometimes it’s a childish opinion ‘Uncle Basil, why in the Picasso are her eyes glistening?’ It was a constant subject for curiosity for them, for discovery. They just loved it. They used to change the paintings around to see how the light affected each painting. It wasn’t just let’s put the paintings on the wall, don’t touch, these are museum quality paintings. It wasn’t like that at all. They were part of their life. It was a home. It was a life. With the way you ’ve exhibited the works, it feels as if you’re trying to create a dialogue, a conversation, as the works are facing off with one another. Is that what you wanted to achieve? A dialogue? A trialogue?
Absolutely, because that’s how they lived. Every private collection is a glimpse into the collectors themselves, into their psyche, into their hearts, into their brains and their personal taste. They always were very interested in the dialogues between the paintings. If you will, they were curating their art at a time that it wasn’t really known yet. It wasn’t really done. If you think about it, I was studying in London, in the mid-90s when the whole idea of an exhibition curated by an artist with works by different artists first started. My uncle, Basil Goulandris always asked us children about our opinions on paintings. It didn’t matter if we were 7 or 15 years old! Because it was more authentic, more visceral? Yes. Sometimes when he wanted us to shut up, he gave us a piece of paper to draw on. But he was interested in our opinion, so we felt we could have an opinion and that was really the start of a journey. It’s probably like choosing amongst your children, but what is your favourite piece in the collection. For me it’s Van Gogh’s ‘La cueillette des olives’(Olive-picking). I danced a little jig when I found out it’s on the cover of our catalogue too. For me, that is my all-time favourite because what you don’t see is that the light changes the colours throughout the day. At the time, this was the only one of the three that was painted from real life. You spoke of the Foundation being a welcoming place, and you’ve already set up workshops. What are your upcoming plans for education? We’ve only been open since October 2, but we’ve already established a series of workshops for both children and adults.You have to be able to look and feel free to have an opinion. After the New Year, we’ve got school visits coming up and we’ve 3D scanned and 3D printed quite a few of our works, so that both children and the visually impaired will be able to touch the art. They’ll be able to touch Van Gogh’s brushwork. They can touch sculptures and that is wonderful.
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All this ‘don’t touch’ doesn’t really work, some works were made to be touched and sculptures are all about texture For children, we have two workshops on lithography and 3D ‘once upon a painting’ learning. For teenagers and adults, there are workshops on bookbinding and restoration of frames. The other thing that’s started very dynamically is that every Friday night the museum is open until 10pm, and we’ve already got a whole series of events such as panel discussions dealing with psychology and art and jazz emsembles lined up. Also, there’s a fantastic group called 7-11, it is two young people who have set up this programme for over-65s with Alzheimer’s, to make connections between themselves and the works without knowing what the works are. They discuss what the works remind them of, how they approach it. We tried it last week for the first time, it sold out in an hour for 2 groups, and by the end of the 2nd group, the entire first floor joined in whether they were in the over-65 group or not. People were clapping and telling their own stories and it was absolutely wonderful. So, we’ve decided that it’s going to be a firm part of the programme. There are also guided tours every Friday from 18:30pm-19:30pm and also private tours.
Come for a coffee, bring your children so that they feel the museum is a welcoming space. That is why the museum was inaugurated by children from Pangrati's primary schools. They were the first ones to scan their tickets. For us, it is the most important visitor group of all. They are the future and if they can feel that the museum is a place that they feel comfortable in, that’s half the battle won
So in fact, you've completely reworked the concept of museums as 'esoteric havens' and made this museum an accessible space, for young and old alike. This is my take on this museum. Use it. We’re here for people. We’re not here to be shut off. That’s why we built the welcoming space outside too, for us it’s really nice to see people just sitting, just enjoying it. It’s made a massive difference to the neighbourhood, there’s a different energy to it, people coming are exploring the side streets and new businesses are opening up. It’s bringing a community together. We even have a water fountain outside, for people and for animals as well. The museum will undeniably change the conversation around art and art education, due to the exposure so many children will have. It will create a whole different mindset. Funnily enough my colleague, who handled one of the childrens’ visits, had a little boy ask three times if the artworks were real.
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What do you feel for a visitor, is unmissable and unforgettable? I’d like to feel that it’s the atmosphere. If I were to give one piece of advice to a visitor, it’s not to come just once. Art is such a personal thing. Each of us can only really focus on very few paintings or sculptures or any pieces of art that catch the eye. It doesn’t necessarily have to be one of the big ones. It can be a work on paper. It can be a piece of furniture. It can be a work by a Greek artist. So, if you don’t come again and again you will miss a lot about this collection. We’ll be rotating things, there will be paintings travelling to other exhibitions in the near future. Mmy advice would be to come as many times as you like, in order to feel comfortable.
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We wanted to open with our own collection, because the works have been waiting for so long to see the light. When we first saw the paintings on the wall, we were so emotional, everybody was crying. How can one support the museum and its activities? We’d encourage you to join our membership programme on our website, goulandris.gr and of course, one can support just by visiting the museum. Visit our gift shop which features custom-made products, by Greek artists and production houses. If you’re a member, you don’t pay, and you can come in and out. The library is filled with all the founders’ personal books and we’ve got most big catalogue resumes, even the ones that aren’t in print anymore. The library isn’t open all the time to the public, at the moment you can book by appointment. In the very near future, it will be open to the public for people to consult the works in situ. We also have a lot of after-house events, parties, conferences, performances and temporary exhibitions coming up, the first of which will be in Fall 2020.
Now that the museum has finally opened, after ‘a long marathon of baby steps’, describe your emotions. The Museum is a family. It’s run like a very close-knit group and those of us who knew Basil and Elise literally were crying. It was elation that the works are finally home and this is what we have been working for, for people to see them. I think the response has been everything they would have wanted and more. It’s definitely in our plans to continue all these activities and on Andros too. It has been a marathon of manageable baby steps. Hitting walls and changing directions. The I.M. Pei building that was originally planned for the Kolonaki site would have been tremendous for this country, but it wouldn’t have had the warm, homey character that we’re striving for here.
In the times we live in, nobody is doing big blockbusters anymore. Conspicuous consumption has not made the transition into the 21st Century, everything is more low-key, and people want to connect more
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Local Pangrati-resident Elena Panayides suggests six compelling reasons to visit the brand-new Basil and Elise Goulandris Foundation’s Museum of Modern Art. Come for the art, stay on to hone a few skills, savour smart meals at the super-stylish restaurant, or just sit on the steps to contemplate the remarkable transformation of a once gritty street into an urban oasis.
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ŠGiannis Seferos
REASONS TO VISIT THE NEW GOULANDRIS MUSEUM
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1. Workshops and more: Sign up to the foundation’s newsletter and take advantage of the plethora of educational workshops and events, such as learning how to gold-plate frames or bookbind, lithography classes for kids and interactive guided tours of the first-floor masterpieces for the over 65. 2. Shopping: The museum store on the ground floor, has a wide variety of beautiful Greek designed and produced gifts and original objects inspired by the rare artworks in the Foundation’s collection. 3. Showtime: In the state-of-the-art, 190-seat amphitheatre, guests can enjoy a monthly programme of lectures, conferences, screenings, performances, concerts and other artistic and scientific happenings. 4. Wining and Dining: At the museum’s urban garden restaurant helmed by distinguished Chef Andreas Lagos and the Ohh Boy Athens team, fresh, exclusively Mediterranean ingredients are employed to create delicious all-day dishes in a modern and soothing space. Here you can eat vegan too!
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6. Trendy Pangrati: After marvelling at the Picassos and Van Goghs you can explore the hipster neighbourhood and its many wonderful spots. 4m for artisanal coffee, Cupola for authentic Italian pizzas and pastas, Hotel Chelsea for afternoon drinks and people-watching, and award-winning Mauro Provato for innovative Greek cuisine. Opening hours: Tuesdays to Sundays from 10am to 6pm, on Fridays from 10am to 10pm. Closed on Mondays. 13 Eratosthenous, Athens. Tel: +30 210 72 52 895, goulandris.gr
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5. Revamped St. Spyridon square: The square is now an inviting meeting point with wooden benches, water fountains and at night, seductive LED lighting to guide your way.
CITY LIFE
5 museums lesser-known
you should visit
There is no denying that the Greek capital is filled with monuments, age-old landmarks and museums worth a visit, but if you find yourself in a bit of an “ancient marble” overdose, you’ll be glad to learn that there are fascinating museums to visit that have nothing to do with archaeology. Ethel Dilouambaka rounds up five Athenian museums that probably weren’t on your radar.
BENAKI MUSEUM OF ISLAMIC ART With its collection comprising pieces from Persia, Egypt and Mesopotamia to Sicily, the Benaki Museum of Islamic Art allows you to travel back in time to explore an incredible wealth of treasures from all corners of the Islamic world. Be inspired by the variety of colours and the intricate, hand-crafted details of each piece before heading to the Museum’s beautiful café that boasts incredible views of the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora and the Athens Observatory. 22 Aghion Asomaton & 12 Dipylou, Thisseio, tel: 210 325 1311
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NUMISMATIC MUSEUM
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The Numismatic Museum of Athens is one of Greece’s most prominent cultural collections. It incorporates a vast display of ancient and modern coins, lead stamps and medals, allowing visitors to discover the rich coinage history of Greece since the 6th century AD. The museum is housed in a stunning neoclassical mansion (built 18781880) which was the former residence of German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, who contributed largely to the excavations of the ancient sites of Mycenae and Tiryns. This magnificent building features many architectural elements worth exploring. End your tour at the museum’s café, where you can take a refreshing break in the lovely garden if the weather allows it. Panepistimiou 12, tel: 210 363 2057, 210 361 2834, 210 361 2872
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HELLENIC MOTOR MUSEUM Whether you are a vintage car aficionado or a fan of turbo-charged racers, you will certainly enjoy a visit to the Hellenic Motor Museum. This off-the-beaten-track attraction includes a collection of more than a hundred cars dating from the 19th and 20th century. Retracing the evolution of the automobile, the museum features rare and forgotten models as well as modern and contemporary specimens, including a fleet of Ferraris. Young and old alike will enjoy this high-octane display set in a distinctive building near the National Archaeological museum. Ioulianou 33, tel: +30 210 881 6187
BENAKI TOY MUSEUM Toys aren’t just for children; they’re fun for adults too. This particular collection is ranked among Europe’s top 10 and exhibits every toy you could think of, from miniature dolls in matchbox beds to model warships of times gone by. Opened in 2017, this museum is a definite must to see Maria Argyriadi’s impressive collection. However, you’ll have to be careful not to play with these toys! 14 Poseidonos & 1 Tritonos, Paleo Faliro, tel: +30 212 687 5280
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CITY LIFE
ATHENS RAILWAY MUSEUM Are you a secret trainspotter? You are in luck: Athens has its own railway museum. Founded in 1978, the museum tracks the history of rail transport in Greece and includes a vast collection of items, from steam locomotives, old tramways and passenger cars, drawings, models, instruments, tools to old uniforms. The recreational train in the courtyard is sure to go down well with little ones but we are pretty sure visitors of all ages will be fascinated with this intriguing collection too. Siokou 4, tel: +30 210 512 6295
Located on the grounds of the Medical School of the National and Kapodistrian University of Athens, this is one of the most underrated museums in the capital. Open by appointment only (children are not permitted), the museum charts the history of crime in Greece, showcasing some of the most notorious cases from the 19th and 20th century. Organized in three main collections – forensic medicine, toxicology and criminology – the museum is a fount of unique research and teaching resources in various fields, from forensic sciences to several areas of sociology. If you are fascinated by the CSI TV show, you will surely relish this museum. Mikras Asias 75 (grounds of the Faculty of Medicine - National and Kapodistrian University of Athens), tel: +30 210 746 2445, 210 746 2406, 210 746 2418.
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MUSEUM OF CRIMINOLOGY
ART
Art of Displacement
©Basil Kiwan
Washington-based Lebanese artist Helen Zughaib’s recent exhibition at the Tsichritzis Gallery (as part of FAME, Female Artists from the Middle East) captures the geometry, colour, and the blinding light of the Middle East. Her powerful narrative on women and displacement touched President Obama so much that he chose her artworks to gift to visiting Heads of State. In an exclusive interview with Sudha Nair-Iliades, she confides, “It was difficult to escape both the beauty and the chaos of growing up in the Arab world."
Helen Zughaib and her self portrait
Y
ou spent a few years growing up in Athens and Paris, in between your childhood in Lebanon, and before moving to the US. How do you identify yourself? Yes, I did. Due to the civil war in Lebanon, my mother and two of my sisters and I, were evacuated to Athens. My father remained in Beirut. It was a very sad and difficult time for our family as we did not have much communication with our father during that time. Remember, no email, no whatsapp, no cell phone..we relied on periodic letters brought to Athens from Beirut. Finally, we all moved to Paris where I completed my secondary school. I remember my art professor reviewed my portfolio for entrance to study art at Syracuse University, on a bench at the Louvre museum! It took me years to appreciate that amazing moment! How do I identify myself? I am an Arab-American. Or Lebanese-American, but in general, people identify me as Arab-American. I am proud of both sides. Your art underlines the narrative of displacement. You have often spoken about your own ‘truncated’ childhood and your sense of being uprooted. How special is it for you to exhibit in Greece, a country that was once home to you, and has now been the temporary home to thousands of refugees from Syria and Iraq? Your question underlines the circles of life. Having to leave twice before, once during a coup in Iraq, again in the Six Day War from Lebanon, and the third time, during the Lebanese Civil War, I know what it means to run away from everything, everyone, you love. Time stops, truncated as you say. So harshly, but then moves at light speed towards the next place, country, environment. Almost no chance to breathe or reflect. This amazing opportunity to be in Athens once again, after all these years, to participate in this show, Women of Resilience,
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Women against the night
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ART
I actually do not think of myself as political! I reflect what is happening around me. I try my best to visually document what is going on in the world.. I think of myself more as a humanist. Ultimately I am interested in humanity and what happens to people after war and displacement. In general, I think art should speak to our times, whatever that may be, in a way, to preserve those moments in time for future generations to know what was going on in our history.
I Am not who you think I Am
You consider art to be one of the most important tools to foster dialogue and understanding and between the Western world. Do you think that art plays a significant role in this conversation, especially in the populist, nationalist times we live in? To be truly meaningful, should art always take a political stand? I really do think art is about the most important tool we have to bridge our “divides.” Not just visual art, but music, poetry and performance art. I truly think art changes the way we see one another. It lets in a bit of light so we can begin to see one another and realize there are fewer differences amongst us than we may have thought previously. It somehow changes the conversation, it gets to the heart of the issues, the politics at hand, the divisions, it humanizes us and brings us closer together, even if it is an inch at a time. Like I said, allowing a ray of light to peek through the shouting and screaming politics. Your artworks were chosen by President Obama and Secretary
of State Clinton as gifts to visiting Heads of State. Was it validation of your belief that culture trumps divisive politics and that soft power is more effective in breaking barriers? It was so exciting for me to have had both those high honours! To represent this country as an Arab-American at a time in our world when there was so much backlash against Arabs and Arab-Americans. Such proud moments for me thinking that my work was respected enough to be given as a gift to a visiting head of state, knowing my paintings were held in high esteem, enough to express that validation of art trumping politics. The pieces chosen were peaceful and inclusive, definitely representing unity and strength as opposed to division. Your artwork focuses extensively on Arabic women and their rich heritage. Do you identify yourself as a feminist? Is there a subliminal message you’d like your artworks to evoke? What encourages you about recent changes in the Arab world? Well yes, I suppose I do, but as I said earlier, I think of myself more as a “humanist.” I am interested in telling stories about people. I am interested in providing another way to look at the world through my work. I do try to create a beautiful, thought-provoking piece, that grabs your attention. Then after I get you to move in closer to my painting or installation, I can get my message across. I have been painting about incredible sadness, desperation and survival in my work for the past nine years, but I do this through beauty, color and pattern, trying to capture the dignity and perseverance of people,
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Arab spring
with other amazing female artists of the Middle East, is a dream. It is indeed incredibly special to have my work, that centers around the refugee crises from Syria and Iraq on view at this time in history, in Greece. I wish that they could know that I have not forgotten them. That I continue to speak for them through my art. I want to be their voice so the world does not forget, does not repeat this devastating chapter in history again.
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ART
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ART
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Your exhibition in Greece as part of Fame (Female artists from the Middle East) comes at a time when Middle Eastern Art is finally having a moment. Have you noticed more of an interest from galleries and collectors in your art? FAME, or Female Artists of the Middle East, founded by curator Christiana Jabara, and exhibited at the Tsichritzis Art Foundation, is hosting our exhibition. From the opening night and attendance of hundreds of people, to the conversations we had, the interest our work sparked and the subsequent talks we had the next day, expressing our intentions as artists and what we hoped to achieve, I definitely feel as if there is greater focus on what we have to say. Not just about war and displacement, but domestic issues, our place in society, the challenges we face, specifically as female artists from the Arab world. It was empowering to be amongst my fellow artists, I think there was a special solidarity we felt. For me, regarding collectors and interest, yes. The Library of Congress, recently acquired a painting from my latest series, Syrian Migration Series. This is the highest validation and encourages my continuing focus on this global issue of massive displacement and war, continuing to tell stories of people so easily forgotten, once they are not on the front pages of newspapers. Name a couple of young, up-and-coming talents you’re excited about. Lamia Abukhadra, a Palestinian-American artist based out of Minneapolis, Zeinab Saab, a Lebanese-American, based in Illinois. You actively follow politics in the Middle East. What do you make of the recent protests in Lebanon? I absolutely follow what is happening in the Middle East. And definitely watching the protests in Lebanon from the news as well as firsthand accounts from family and friends living there. I hope the unity and solidarity being expressed on the streets, remains, when the protests come to an end. I hope the protests remain peaceful. What future projects are you excited about? Quite recently, Cune Press, published my book, Stories My Father Told Me. This is a book about my father’s childhood and young adulthood in Damascus and Lebanon before immigrating to America. I have painted each of his 24 stories and memories, capturing typical
Weeping woman with child
family traditions, and village life, that are easily forgotten in this fastpaced world, of a time that somehow seems sweeter and more gentle. If anything, it provides lessons to the next generations of a time that we should not forget, but remember to bring forward to our children and grandchildren. I continue to work on issues regarding displacement and the ongoing refugee crisis, in preparation for upcoming solo exhibitions in both Baltimore and Washington, DC.
Ramzi Mashrabiyya
Helen Zughaib’s paintings were exhibited at the Tsichritzis Gallery as part of the ‘Women of Resilience’ exhibition organised by FAME (Female Artists from the Middle East) and the Lebanese Embassy in Greece. Founded by the dynamic Christiana Jabara, FAME empowers female artists of the region and give them exposure and a voice internationally. The exhibition ‘Women of Resilience’ deals with how artists view themes of displacement, migration, identity, war and an unstable socio-political climate but who have also succeeded with a message of hope, dialogue and strength, linking where they come from, and where they are now, into a story. @womenoffame, helenzughaib.com
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Generations Lost
especially women, who often times are left to pick up the pieces of their shattered lives. I think what encourages me is just that. The incredible strength of women, who manage to survive, work to feed their families, provide shelter, and somehow continue on. They are remarkable.
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Heralding a new era in Greek tourism The era of equating tourism marketing with glossy picture-perfect advertising is over, says Angela Gerekou to Sudha Nair-Iliades. The President of the Greek National Tourism Organization elaborates on Greece’s response to unlocking its tourism potential to cater to a more ecoconscious, inquisitive and technologically-advanced traveller.
A
ngela Gerekou has donned different hats in her long career in the public eye as an architect, urban planner, model, actress (best remembered for her roles in Magiki Nyhta,1995 and in the Greek-British production The Girl from Mani,1986), singer, politician, mother and proud Corfiot. Consistently voted as one of the most beautiful women in Greece, she more than proved her mettle in politics and as a tourism strategist in her stints as Deputy Culture and Tourism Minister in 2009 and later as Deputy Culture and Sports Minister in 2014. Fluent in Italian, English and French, in her role as the President of the Greek National Tourism Organisation, Angela Gerekou hopes to present the contemporary face of Greek tourism through authentic, sustainable experiences to cater to a diverse range of travellers. You were Greece’s Deputy Culture and Tourism Minister in the midst of Greece’s crippling economic crisis in 2009-2010 and Deputy Culture and Sports Minister in 2014. Now with Greek tourism booming (international arrivals up by 13 percent in the first quarter of 2019), it must be a different challenge to sustain these high levels with new product offerings. How optimistic are you for the future? During this decade I participated in two government schemes, in the fields of culture and tourism, and we dealt with many issues in a difficult international environment for Greece. Now, as we are heading towards the next decade, I believe the political system has recognized its mistakes and weaknesses and new efforts are being made to respond to the demands of Greek society for prosperity. To meet the challenges that are ahead of us, the Greek National Tourism Organisation and other services involved in the tourism process, must and should promote a tourism model of sustainable development , with a new narrative and projection to the future. We will implement effective policies, rectify the wrong ones, and design new strategies that can guarantee a productive future for the evolution of Greek Tourism into a more qualitative mass tourism destination and
develop alternative and thematic tourism products. Both the Greek Government and I are optimistic to meet the new needs of the international tourism agenda. Greece is having its moment in the spotlight with positive stories and messages coming out of here – from new museums, vibrant creative hubs, luxury investments and fashion shows that showcase our archaeological sites – it has never been a better moment to promote all that this ancient yet contemporary land has to offer. How do you hope to capitalize on this momentum to deliver your vision for Greek tourism? Moving into the new decade we’re hopeful that the resilience of the Greek spirit will shine through in transitioning from its protracted period of crisis, into a new era of productivity and positive results in every field. This is the main goal of the newly elected government - to have a new, positive story to tell internationally regarding investments and prosperity for all. Promoting Greek creativity through the channels of new technology and international media, we will let the tourism sector in Greece and international creators know that they have the State and especially GNTO on their side. We have the opportunity to make Greece the preferred choice for international visitors. This is our vision and we will make it happen. We all agree that Greece has to go beyond its sun-and-sand strategy to make it appealing as a contemporary, modern, 365-day destination. What strategies do you have in place to promote this new image of Greece? What will be the primary focus of GNTO’s new campaigns? We are already planning our new campaigns for 2020 and also together with the Ministry of Tourism designing a new plan, setting our goals for the next decade. This has never been done in the past, and it is proof that we understand the issue and want to have a new and
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The Greek National Tourism Organisation is the country’s ambassador to the whole world and we have intelligent, anthropocentric strategies in place to promote Greece as a contemporary, sustainable, athens insider 365-day destination | 65 |
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ŠPhoto courtesy of Hello!
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better image of Greece. As we deal with the modern demands of international visitors, we design a new single agenda of the Greek Tourism product with regional and thematic differentiation, unlocking the potential of Greece’s natural beauty but also the endless possibilities in other areas of tourism. The local communities play a key role in this process because every region of Greece has something diverse to offer and we want to express this distinction.
The “sea and sun” formula has been the country's asset for many years, and we should not forget that, but we can evolve and upgrade it. Greece can create a high-end tourism market in unison with hotels, attractions, food, services, shopping and the advantage of new technology instruments.
©Photo courtesy of Hello!
Towards that end, the GNTO and the public sector entities dealing with tourism, can work with private sector businesses on campaigns to drive awareness of the high-end market they are trying to create. So, to summarize, the mass tourism product can be more qualitative, the high-end tourist market can be upgraded and together with the promotion of alternative and thematic tourism agenda, we can give a new feeling to our campaigns.
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What is the profile of the new tourist coming to Greece? What experiences are they looking for? According to most reports, the profile of tourists coming to Greece includes all kinds of tourists, and this diversity is something that we want to sustain. But in recent years, there's a trend towards more singular experiences, and that doesn’t have to do with how much money a visitor spends in the country. Regardless of their income more people want to experience a unique moment in Greece either with their families, groups of friends, as couples, or even as solo travellers. What are the new strategies you have in place to attract these new, millennial travelers? What are the new incoming markets GNTO will be focusing on?
Greek tourism in numbers
When we design policies for incoming markets, we are aware that traditional markets can and should remain on the top of our efforts in order to keep doing well, and as for new incoming markets we examine reports and research to increase arrivals from places where Greece's image is good but not so popular. Our campaigns for the next few years will target these countries from Asia and the Middle East, the US and Africa, because as I said before, we want to make Greece the first choice for international visitors. Tourism has always been a very fragile industry, as the recent Thomas Cook debacle has proven, estimated to affect the Greek tourism industry to the tune of 500 million. How does GNTO and the Ministry of Tourism hope to put a mechanism in place to buffer such shocks? Tourism is a product that is simultaneously affected by many factors and the over-dependence on big tour operators only adds to the risks. The recent crisis of Thomas Cook is proof of that, and demonstrates the need for diversity in our promotional efforts and reliance on big tour operators. Not just Greece- but the entire international tourism market has been working for many years with an unhealthy dependence on these tour operators, and it's a reality we have to now confront directly. Designing and promoting promotional policies that target international visitors directly with a specific agenda for sustainable tourism development can make Greece more resilient to that, and to any kind of crisis. We have designed a Mechanism of Crisis Management, with the Ministry of Tourism
• The industry’s direct contribution to the country’s GDP is 21.6 billion euros or 11.7% and indirect contribution works out to almost
25%
of the GDP
• Tourism attracted
5
billion euros worth of investments
• Greece attracted as much as
2019
33
• Tourism employs up to
44%
million visitors in 2019
of the workforce • An all-time high of
3.8
million tourists was recorded in July 2019 as compared to an alltime low of 140.107 persons in February 2013.
• Tourism Revenues in Greece reached an all-time high of
3645
million euros in July 2019
sources: INSETE, National Bank of Greece
and other Ministries, to enable us to react immediately to a crisis, and to also be prepared with pre-emptive measures all year long. It must be said that when Thomas Cook announced its bankruptcy, we immediately set up a crisis operating centre at the Ministry of Tourism and very quickly the Greek Government adopted appropriate measures. One of the risks in Greek tourism has been that of ‘over-tourism.’ How do you balance the fragile sustainability of an island with tourism growth? Targetting for a sustainable tourism development means that we want to have an increase of the number of visitors, the quality of the product together with the protection of the natural beauty of the Greek environment. Tourism growth in an area doesn't mean that it also needs to be harmful to the environment and this is the issue of the next decade. We want to improve the infrastructure, respect the environment, and promote this agenda to the actors of the tourism sector and also to our visitors. athens insider | 67 |
As the 17 Sustainable Development Goals guide us, we believe that “over-tourism” as an issue can be handled with the necessary policies, because we want to have prosperity and pass it on to the next generations. Tourism was largely dismissed as a fringe industry in Greece and has only lately been given the importance it so rightly deserved. How do you hope to change that image of tourism in Greece? Tourism adds a significant amount to Greece's GDP every year and while tourism is an old product that goes back many decades, it can be much more productive for the country as Greece is blessed with natural beauty and also enjoys a unique location in the planet. As the new administration at GNTO and the Ministry of Tourism, we want to unlock the potential of every region in Greece by promoting activities that embrace all aspects of tourism - nature, culture, gastronomy, sports (extreme sports and high-end activities such as golf), sailing and more!
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Making people’s stays memorable in a positive way can create wordof-mouth referrals via social media and this is an extremely valuable and effective method of creating the market for high-end customers more alluring.
13%
in the first quarter of 2019
• Greece was among the world’s leading destinations as demonstrated by growth at Athens Airport up by 16.6% and regional airports stronger by 8.6%.
©Icon made by Freepik from www.flaticon.com
We want to make millennial travellers, like other visitors, feel at home, and at the same time to live unique experiences that they will narrate when they go back. This is our strategy, and with the means of new technology instruments, we can promote their activities and the experiences gained during their stay in Greece.
• Greek tourism flows and revenue up
How We will travel in 2020
As we get ready to head into a new decade, we wanted to look at the 2020 travel trends that will shape the way we all vacation and shape the industry as a whole. So what will the main 2020 travel trends be? We decided to delve a little deeper and pick out the most important shifts happening‌
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Shareability is king: Travellers, partners, and influencers will seek an environment to create shareable moments. People-based growth: Visitor growth in itself is not a goal. Increasing the value of visitors for all parties is.
The rise of the ‘second city’ traveler: The exploration of lesser known destinations will take a leap forward with awareness campaigns to entice visitors to take the road less travelled.
4
Ecotourism: The environment has moved from a fringe issue for many to become one of the most important factors in planning a trip.
5
Slo-Mo is the new #FOMO: Travel in 2020 will be all about taking it slow, 48% of travelers plan to take slower modes of transport to reduce their carbon impact and 61% would prefer to take a longer route to experience more of the journey itself.
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10
7
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Cash Free Travel: A whole new range of cashless solutions means that we might reach the stage where you might not even have to have any local currency whatsoever on a trip abroad.
No pets, no holiday: 2020 looks set to herald a new era in pet-centric vacations. Travellers will put the needs of their beloved pets well before their own when it comes to selecting where to go, where to stay and what to do.
8
Travel That is Transformative: The idea of making a difference, helping others, but also helping oneself, even when they vacation will guide 2020 travellers. Yoga retreats and art therapy retreats will be big draws.
Personalized service: Everybody – from hotels, airlines and ride sharing companies to Google – knows more about you than ever before. To many this is a creepy invasion of privacy, but the net effect could means a much more fluid and enjoyable travel experience.
The Gig Economy: From the moment you click on your app for a cab at the airport you are entering the world of the gig economy. This is the world where individuals are using technology to connect with people traveling and offering a service for a cheaper fee. Services like Uber, AirBnB and Deliveroo or any service that cuts of the middle man will be a key trend.
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Race to the reservation: Plane tickets will take a back seat to restaurant reservations. Snagging the all-important table to enjoy highly coveted cuisine from big name restaurants to hidden gems that offer sought-after homegrown flavours, will be a priority for global travelers who say that eating locally sourced produce is important to them when on vacation.
Šshutterstock
(sources: Destination Think and Booking.com)
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Veganism: This also ties in with ecotourism and veganism will continue to manifest itself in 2020 travel trends. Vegan-only trips, retreats and cooking classes will come to the fore even more over the coming years, as the world changes its eating habits.
©Illustrations by Lauren Rebbeck
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Taking it to the extremes in Greece
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Embrace your fears and dip into dangerous adventures. Get your pulses racing and discover some stunning destinations in Greece with six adrenaline-packed adventure sports compiled by Ethel Dilouambaka
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Rock climbing Now, we can all agree that when it comes to rock climbing, Greece is definitely a great destination thanks to its extensive mountainous landscapes. While the temperate climate means it can be practiced year-round, there are plenty of options in terms of terrain. For example, you can rock climb on limestone rocks or caves, and admire fascinating geological formations at the same time. The number 1 destination is undeniably the island of Kalymnos, located between Leros and Kos, in the Dodecanese islands. Indeed, the island is popular for its impressive rock formations and is even home to an international rock-climbing festival held every year and attracting hundreds of participants. Meteora, in central Greece, comes second, thanks to its fairytale-like landscape and the plethora of rocks and boulders to climb. Rock climbing is also gaining a following in Crete, Peloponnese and around Athens. climbkalymnos.com
Adrenaline junkies unite! Are you always on the lookout for a new challenge? Do you want to swap your beach-side chills for risky thrills? Here are some fun extreme sports you can indulge in.
Skydiving It doesn’t get more extreme than that! Skydiving is all about taking a leap of faith and jumping into the sky from a plane with an instructor. If you are a beginner, the day starts with a short ground preparation before gearing up and getting into a plane that will soar up to 3500 meters. And then, all you have to do is jump. You will be freefalling for a minute before your instructor opens the parachute and you fly back to earth. During that time, you will be able to admire the fascinating landscapes of Greece from way high and make the most of it. If you want to give it a go, a few companies in Greece offers you the opportunity to do so, including Skydive Athens and Skydive Greece so make sure to check them out! skydive-athens.gr
Free diving Another water-based extreme sports, free diving is definitely worth a try, even if you have never done it before. More extreme than scuba diving, free diving implies diving underwater without using scuba gear but rather holding one’s breath until resurfacing. Perfect for the adventurers wanting to test their own limits, free diving courses are available in several locations in Greece, including Kalamata and Antiparos, and are open to beginners and more advanced divers as well. Lessons involve practical training and theory classes on breathing techniques, pressure, and discipline. According to the company you choose, different requirements may apply so make sure to check them to see if you fit the criteria. freediving-club.gr, blueisland-divers.gr athens insider | 72 |
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River g Raftin Bungy jumping For many adrenaline seekers, one of the ultimate extreme sports is bungy jumping. For those who have been living under a rock, it involves jumping from a tall structure with an elastic cord. This thrilling activity was born in New Zealand and has quickly spread across the globe to reach Greece, where it has been gaining more and more popularity in the past ten years. There seems to be only one company offering bungy jumping experiences in Greece, namely Zulu Bungy. When booking with them, you get to jump from the Corinth Canal bridge, at 100 meters high. As always with extreme sports, you are accompanied by a small crew of professional and trained team to assist and prepare you for the experience of a lifetime. zulubungy.com
For those who love water activities, why not try rafting? Granted, this activity may not be as extreme as other sports on this list, but it still is a thrilling experience. Greece is home to a plethora of rivers where rafting is possible. The bonus about rafting is that it gives you the opportunity to do some sightseeing differently. On the quieter waters, you can actually admire the beauty of the scenery, the vegetation, and the impressive nature. Several companies offer rafting adventures in Meteora, in Arcadia, Peloponnese or even in Mount Olympus. adrenaline-hunter.com, trekking.gr, visitmeteora.travel
Paragliding
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If one of your dreams has always been to fly like a bird, then paragliding is for you. This fantastic sport allows you to take to the skies and discover the Greek landscape from above. And guess what? There is no need to jump. All you have to do is take a few quick steps to allow the wing to get inflated and off you go! Of course, you will be accompanied by a certified pilot that will maneuver the gear so you can relax and simply enjoy the ride. There are several paragliding companies in Greece, including O2 Paragliding, Olympic Wings, Paragliding Fun or Corfu Paragliding. These take you on different parts of Greece such as Corfu, Lefkada, Drama, Mount Olympus, Plastiras lake to soar over beautiful forests, stunning rivers and lakes, and picturesque villages. o2paragliding.gr, olympicwings.com paraglidingfun.gr
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CITY LIFE TRAVEL
5 reasons why you should visit
Nafplio
This little coastal gem in the Peloponnese was Greece's first capital. Its stunning architecture, layered history, cultural outposts and its laidback vibe make Nafplio the perfect getaway destination. Ethel Dioulambaka suggests five compelling reasons to visit.
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Because of its fascinating past, Nafplio and particularly its Old Town has strong architectural interest. Indeed, visitors can admire stunning ancient stone walls and fortifications, three medieval castles, Byzantines churches, Turkish fountains and mosques as well as impressive neoclassical buildings adorned with bright and colourful bougainvillea. This is probably why people love Nafplio, with its old-time charm, stunning architecture and its maze of narrow streets and alleys where visitors can get lost in. Trust us, this little town has plenty of hidden corners all more photogenic than the next, and it is not surprising that it is considered one of the prettiest and most romantic destinations in Greece.
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#01. IT IS CONSIDERED AS ONE OF THE MOST ROMANTIC CITIES IN GREECE
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#02
IT IS THE PERFECT BASE TO EXPLORE THE SURROUNDING SIGHTS Besides being only two hours away from Athens, Nafplio is also conveniently located near a plethora of ancient sites and cities worth exploring. For anyone wanting to explore the Peloponnese, the town is the best base to explore the region. If you love wine for example, you will love the fact that Nafplio is near the Nemea region and its famed wineries. Furthermore, the archaeological sites of Ancient Tyrins and Mycenae, home of King Agamemnon, as well as Epidaurus and its stunning ancient theatre and even Corinth are all a quick drive away, making it a great central point to venture from.
#03. IT WAS THE FIRST CAPITAL OF THE NEWLY ESTABLISHED GREEK STATE Did you know that Athens wasn’t always the capital of Greece? In fact, after the Greek war of Independence, which ended more than 400 years of Ottoman occupation, Nafplio served as the capital of the first Hellenic republic and the Kingdom of Greece from roughly 1822 to 1834. Indeed, during the war, Nafplio was an important Ottoman stronghold, It finally surrendered and thanks to the impressive fortifications still standing today, it became the home of the provisional government, when the independence of the country was recognized in 1828. Though the city was only made officially the capital of Greece in 1829, it remained so until the establishment of the new Kingdom of Greece in 1832, which was established at the Convention of London by the Great Powers and headed by King Otto, a Bavarian prince. The King later decided to transfer the capital to Athens, in 1934.
#04. IT HAS IT ALL Nafplio has it all indeed. While being perfect for walks, it is extremely bike-friendly and many hotels offer bike rentals for cheap. Besides its castles and churches, there are also interesting sightseeing opportunities in Nafplio, including the Archaeological museum of Nafplio, the War Museum, housed in the buildings of the first military academy, and the Komboloi Museum, where one can learn all about worry beads. The Fougaro cultural center, located 3 kilometers outside of town, is also a great stop for an art exhibition or a jazz concert before enjoying a delicious dinner at the on-site restaurant. Nafplio is also home to traditional tavernas to modern eateries serving Greek cuisine with a modern twist. Don’t miss the chance to stop by the Antica Gelateria di Roma to end your day on a high and sweet note. If you visit Nafplio during the summer, don’t forget your swimming gear! There are several beaches nearby, including the most popular one, Arvanitia, a pebbly beach easily accessible by foot via a paved promenade. Karathonas, Kiveri and Nea Kios are all nearby beaches within a 20 to 30-minute drive. So, seriously, what are you waiting for?
#05
IT HAS A RICH HISTORY STILL VISIBLE TODAY Nafplio also boasts a rich past since it was first inhabited during Classical Antiquity. The walls of Acronauplia, which still stand to this day above the modern city, are perfect testimonial to this. Up until the 13th century, this ancient part of town was inhabited, The city was later fortified by the Franks. Under Venetian rule, from1388, the lower city expanded and the water castle (the Bourtzi) on the islet of Agios Theodoris was built. Around 1685, the Venetians retook the city from the hands of the Ottomans and constructed the Palamidi fortress to strengthen the new capital of the Venetian Kingdom of the Morea. But the city fell back into the hands of the Turks in 1715, until it was captured by the Greek forces led by Staikos Staikopoulos in November 1822. And the rest is history as they say.
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©Jason Lloyd-Evans
Describing it as her most personal collection to date, Greek designer Mary Katrantzou’s SpringSummer 2020 collection feted her fashion brand’s 10th anniversary, and raised awareness for children with cancer, in a setting truly fit for the Gods - the 2,500 year-old Temple of Poseidon suspended atop a 200-foot cliff overlooking the Aegean. As models in Katrantzou’s kaleidoscopic, sculptural creations trod on the Temple of Poseidon’s ancient grounds under a half moon, the experience was both humbling and awe-inspiring. Vangelis’ haunting music only heightened the mystical energy and elevated her fashion show to a lifeaffirming experience.
©German Larkin
STYLE
Mary Katrantzou presents her SS 2020 collection flanked by her models and Bvlgari Jewelry’s Creative Director Lucia Silvestri. With threads running through Greece’s influence in every aspect of modern life, the collection was her ode to Greece
W
e catch up with Mary Katrantzou at Four Seasons Astir, a few hours before her much-anticipated show at Sounion. Watching her bask in the October sun, unflustered, she seemed to mask her anxiety remarkably well. It must have been the lull before the storm. Minutes later, the skies darkened, and an unseasonal autumnal storm threatened to wash out her show altogether. With almost as much drama and magic as her phantasmagorical creations, the clouds cleared, the sun peeped under them, infusing the sky in such rich hues of vermillion, you knew even the Gods had relented so that this phenomenal talent and delightfully humble creator could have her moment in the sun. Your ethereal creations tying in Greek myths and symbolism to Vangelis’ haunting music under a moonlit night at Sounion – was it exactly as you’d envisaged it? Why had you set your heart on this setting? Was it a homecoming of sorts for you? Describe your emotions. I am grateful to Vangelis, for giving me the incredible gift of writing the music that allowed us all to travel back in time and into the future, on October 3, at The Temple of Poseidon, in Sounio. His music defined the spirit of this encounter between our historical past and our cultural present. Music, as Vangelis's has instilled in me, can be found everywhere and everything is music. It is my belief that the music he composed has always belonged to The Temple of Poseidon and through Vangelis's genius, it emerged that night, heightening the mystical energy of this landmark location. I am lucky to have discovered not only the many layers of his brilliance but also his generous spirit and I am blessed to be able to call him a friend. This show was
a homecoming and a personal love letter to Greece, the country that formed the person I am today. It has been my intention, for some time, to do something meaningful in Greece that would allow us to send a message of culture and humanity beyond our borders. ELPIDA was founded by Marianna Vardinoyannis on these exact values and when she approached me to join forces in celebration of their 30 Years, I knew there could be no higher purpose than supporting their sacred cause. I cannot describe my emotions when ELPIDA’s children and adult survivors walked down the steps in front of The Temple of Poseidon, a monument that has stood there for over 2,500 years, accompanied by the music of Vangelis. Marianna inspired me and allowed me to find a new purpose and reassess the power of creativity in bringing people together for the common good. I hope with our efforts, and with the kind support of Bulgari, Swarovski, MasterCard and the National Bank of Greece, we managed to raise awareness around ELPIDA's work far beyond our borders and sent a message of hope and humanity around the world.
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Feathers, festoons, fronds, beads, maps, alphabets, Katrantzou’s couture creations came in dramatic prints, shapes, shades and structures.
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ŠGerman Larkin
STYLE
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Reflecting the timeless elegance of the 16 Doric columns, Katrantzou’s painstakingly crafted creations celebrate Classical Greece but she also thoughtfully uses this magical moment to support Elpida in giving hope to thousands of children.
ŠPavlos Davios
STYLE
athens insider | 82 |
STYLE
This show was a homecoming and a personal love letter to Greece, the country that formed the person I am today. It has been my intention, for some time, to do something meaningful in Greece that would allow us to send a message of culture and humanity beyond our borders.
The anxiety of putting on a fashion show such as this one - down to getting the permits and even pleasing the fickle weather Gods - did you get the feeling that if you’ve done this, you can take on anything?! It had been a dream of mine to do a show at The Temple of Poseidon and we knew from the first time we confided in Elpida's team of our intention that it wouldn’t be easy. The importance of ELPIDA's cause that we were servicing and the historical nature of the location, ignited a determination in all of us to achieve what at times seemed impossible. I remember, when we managed to get the approval from the Ministry of Culture and KAS, I was in tears and vowed to Marianna that I would do my absolute best to raise awareness around her life's work at ELPIDA. At that moment, I felt the weight of responsibility after being trusted with a monument that has never been offered before for such a worthy cause. Both ELPIDA's team and our team worked tirelessly for over two months to ensure we were respectful of the Ministry's decision. On the day of the show, Athens was experiencing torrential rain and we feared the show would be cancelled. When I saw that the clouds disappeared just 1 hour before the show, literally changing direction and moving away from us, I felt that we had Poseidon on our side all along. Do you think this might set a precedent for future fashion shows to be staged at iconic venues in Greece? It is important to distinguish that this event was dedicated entirely to raising financial support and awareness for a very important cause, ELPIDA’s invaluable research on child cancer.
You do realise that the bar has been set so high – how can you possibly top something like this next season?! I always take time to reflect and the show at The Temple of Poseidon is still very raw in my mind. What I do know, is it has forever changed the impact I believe culture and creativity can have, when joining hands with philanthropy, to raise awareness on a global level.
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I have great respect for how protective the Greek Archaeological Council (KAS) and the Ministry of Culture are of our monuments, that is their responsibility. I equally witnessed first-hand that when the application is meant for a sacred cause and it is done with respect to the location, they are willing to support it.
©Jason Lloyd-Evans
The collection was also designed to highlight the values of Greek ideas that were born here, at the time the Temple of Poseidon was built because it was important to me that the clothes felt rooted in the location. Sending a message of humanity from Greece to the world, allowed us all to witness the impact of a historical landmark in communicating our values as Greeks.
©Jason Lloyd-Evans
STYLE
What stimuli does your creativity feed on? Do you consider creativity to be inexhaustible? I find inspiration comes from everywhere, from symbolism and applied design to art and architecture. I love to obsess over one idea, dissecting the inspiration to re-assemble a collage of contrasting references and create unexpected narrative arcs for each collection. The source of creativity is infinite. Exploring each idea and driving it into final finished product on the runway is always the hardest part. In a world where technology is becoming ever more dominant, how important do human factors such as inspiration and creativity remain for you as a designer? Using digital technology opens up a huge spectrum for opportunity; it allows me to create possibility out of impossibility, surrealism out of realism and push boundaries. These digital tools enable us to explore ideas, but ultimately still require the human touch to interpret and channel ideas to bring them into the physical world. A lot of renowned fashion houses have based their collections on, or been inspired by, ancient Greece. Do you intend to incorporate more Greek influences into a future collection? I can understand why others are also drawn to the rich culture and history of Greece – the civilisation offers an incredible richness and it is wonderful to see more attention being drawn to it. For me, the source of inspiration for each collection changes every season evolving into an independent theme of its own. However, my Greek roots and upbringing will always subconsciously influence me and my aesthetic. If you had to choose between developing your brand further and taking over a fashion house, what would you choose? And why? With my own brand, I feel privileged to be in a position where I can follow my designs from an initial idea to runway and onto the shop floor.
It has been an incredible journey to see the company grow and build an amazing team support to turn dreams into reality. I still have many more stories to tell and I am excited about all the possibilities that the future can bring for the brand. Being a celebrated name, how would you deal with a run-out of ideas? In fashion there is always a demand for fresh, innovative designs. As a designer there is never a time where I should stop pushing the boundaries and challenging myself; there is no room to become complacent, only room to develop. What has been the most serious obstacle you had to overcome to become Mary Katrantzou as you are today? Evolving the brand beyond its digital print roots to showcase the full scope of our creativity has been a challenge over the evolution of the brand. In seasons past, there has been a deliberate decision to explore fabrications, embellishments and texture to push the creative boundaries of possibilities. I feel we have now reached a point where the collections have achieved a harmonious balance that honours the brand DNA, tantalises the consumer and allows room for further growth. If you were to host a foreigner in Greece, which are the three most memorable experiences you would wish to share? I would love to share the rich culture and intensity of Athens, combined with the experience of relaxing island holidays in Spetses. Both locations offer breathtaking landscapes, sunsets and open-hearted people ready to share their stories. You’ve managed to stay grounded after your phenomenal success – your work ethos and fashion philosophy is: Work hard, be patient and always stay true to your values.
athens insider | 84 |
My Greek roots and upbringing will always subconsciously influence me and my aesthetic
athens insider | 85 |
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©Pavlos Davios
STYLE
HOLIDAY PIZZA ZZ PHOTOGRAPHY: Giannis Seferos FASHION EDITOR: Aristidis Zois MODEL: Laia Vega, D-Models MAKE UP & HAIR: Efi Ramone, Beehive Artists STYLING ASSISTANT: Sophia Tsakali LOCATION: Presidential Suite, Arion, Four Seasons Astir
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Metallic dress with embroidery Zeus + Dione, ZEUS + DIONE Boutique. Sandals Gucci, KALOGIROU. White gold necklace 18K with rose cut diamonds and emeralds and white gold necklace 18K with diamonds VILDIRIDIS
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Leather strapless dress Ermano Scervino, LINEA PIU. Heritage collection necklace in 18KT white gold, Heritage collection ring in 18KT gold with diamonds, sapphires and rubies and Heritage Collection bracelet in 18KT gold with diamonds, ZOLOTAS.
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Draped dress with open sleeves Sara Battaglia, ENNY MONACO. Leather pumps Saint Laurent, KALOGIROU. Happy Hearts sautoir necklace in rose gold, diamonds and malachite by Chopard and Chinese New Year Imperiale Jade watch by Chopard, KASSIS.
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Coat and skirt from wool Helmut Lang, ATTICA. Body Eres, ERES BOUTIQUE. Leather pumps Jimmy Choo, LUISA WORLD. Earrings, necklace and bracelet from gold 18KT with diamonds Marco Bicego, MARCO BICEGO Boutique.
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Blazer Alexandre Vauthier, LUISA WORLD. Lingerie Eres, ERES Boutique. Sunglasses Gucci, ALOS Boutique.
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Embroidered Dress Balmain, LUISA WORLD. Velvet sandals Tom Ford, LINEA PIU.
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Draped dress Saint Laurent, LUISA WORLD. White gold necklace in18KT with diamonds, white gold earrings with diamonds and white gold ring in 18KT with princess cut, marquise cut and pear cut diamonds, VILDIRIDIS.
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fashion Silk pleated dress by Mary Katrantzou and suede belt Temperley, SALT WATER Boutique. Leather boots with studs, Alexander McQueen, KALOGIROU. Leather Bag Callista, CALLISTA BOUTIQUE. Sunglasses Celine, ALOS Boutique. White gold earrings in 18KT with diamonds and white gold rings in18KT with diamonds and emeralds, VILDIRIDIS.
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Knit dress with leather details and sneakers with tweed Louis Vuitton, LOUIS VUITTON Boutique.
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HISTORY
The forgotten Cdr. Demetries Grimes, a former US naval officer, aviator and diplomat recounts
history of the the exploits of the elite 122nd Infantry Battalion, established by President Franklin
122nd Infantry Roosevelt at the request of the Greek government in exile, to recruit Greek-Americans
Batallion to support resistance efforts in German-occupied Greece
HISTORY
L
ike Cadmus’ Spartoi, sown men, grown from the slayed dragon’s teeth he planted in the ground in Thebes, in WWII German-occupied Greece, the dragon’s teeth would be sown once again... Much of what has been written about the Office of Strategic Services (OSS), the predecessor of the Central Intelligence Agency (CIA), revolves around tales of clandestine activities and espionage. Overlooked by most historians are the fascinating and heroic exploits of the OSS Operational Groups (OG), kept Top Secret for more than forty years after the war. During World War II, OGs were small, highly trained military units tasked with intelligence gathering, organizing, training, supplying, and working with local resistance fighters against Axis forces behind enemy lines. The OGs in the Mediterranean were organized under the command of the 2671st Special Reconnaissance Battalion. The most effective and highly decorated of these groups was formed from the 122nd Infantry Battalion at Fort Carson, Colorado. The 122nd Infantry Battalion was established by President Franklin Roosevelt, at the request of the Greek government in exile, to recruit Greek-Americans to support resistance efforts in German-occupied Greece. The founder of the OSS and the OGs was millionaire Wall Street Lawyer and World War I Medal of Honor winner, Col. William ‘Wild Bill’ Donovan. In 1940, before the US entry into the
War, Col. Donovan was tasked by President Roosevelt and the US Secretary of the Navy with a special mission to gather intelligence in Britain, Europe, and the Southern Mediterranean on Axis operations and Allied capabilities to counter the German war machine. After two extended trips to the region, he concluded that neither the US nor Britain were capable of defeating the Axis powers with conventional military forces alone. According to his assessment, highly skilled forces engaging in coordinated guerrilla warfare would be required to win the war. He believed the rich ethnic makeup of America could provide second generation American soldiers with special capabilities to support local resistance organizations. He envisioned creating an elite force of highly skilled warriors and inserting them as small teams behind enemy lines to gather intelligence, commit acts of sabotage, engage in counterespionage, train local resistance fighters, and coordinate combined guerrilla resistance operations. Convinced by Col. Donovan’s assessment, President Roosevelt appointed him to lead the OSS and begin the recruiting and training of agents and units needed to “sow the dragon’s teeth” in Europe. The men recruited for these special units were physically fit, intelligent, motivated, trusted, and resourceful soldiers with language skills and cultural knowledge. Skills that would enable them to operate independently behind enemy lines. The source of inspiration for their training syllabus were the British Secret athens insider | 99 |
A force of 12 officers and 120 NCOs qualified for the Greek-American Battalion. The units were inserted by sea and by parachute under cover of darkness in early 1944 and dispersed throughout Greece to work with British military officers and the Andartes of the EAM-ELAS to inflict damage on the enemy and destroy communications rail networks, and bridges used by the Wehrmacht.
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The Greek-American Battalion at their Fort Carson, Colorado training base carrying the US and Greek flags. Official US Army photo
HISTORY
01.Greek Andartes. Jack Ray 02. OSS Forces in Northern Greece. J. Giannaris Collection. 02
01
03. OSS Forces in the Pindos Mountains. J. Giannaris Collection.
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05
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04. OSS Forces in front of The National Library in Athens. J. Giannaris Collection 05. OSS and Andartes Forces in Northern Greece. J. Giannaris Collection. 06. 122nd Infantry Greek Battalion Parade at their Fort Carson, Colorado training base. Official US Army Photo
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HISTORY
A force of 12 officers and 120 non-commissioned officers qualified for the Greek-American Battalion. In advance of the OG deployments, OG officers parachuted into Greece to establish relations with the British Military Mission and Andartes groups in their mountain hideaways. The men were formed into eight Operational Groups. The units were inserted by sea and by parachute under cover of darkness in early 1944 and dispersed throughout Greece to work with British military officers and the Andartes of the EAM-ELAS (National Liberation Front-National Liberation Army). Their mission was to inflict the heaviest damage possible on the enemy and destroy communications, rail networks, and bridges used by the Wehrmacht for redeployments and withdrawal of the 150,000 German and Axis occupation forces and their equipment. They also conducted sabotage operations, with intelligence provided by the US Naval Attaché in Ankara, against the transfer of strategic materials moving from Turkey to Germany via Greece
With thousands of documents related to their exploits yet to be declassified by the US government, expect to hear more about these brave warriors who went into harm’s way, willing to make the ultimate sacrifice for both the United States and Hellas.
by rail. Group I conducted operations in Epirus, Group II in Roumeli, Group III in Thessaly, Group IV in Macedonia, Group V in Mt. Paikon, Group VI in Mt. Olympus area, Group VII in the Peloponnese, and Group VIII in Macedonia. Considering the overwhelming odds and challenges they faced, the Greek Battalion suffered only three combat fatalities and 23 wounded in action. Despite Hitler’s order and capture reward, not a single member of the Greek Battalion was betrayed or captured. The eight groups conducted 76 operations in Greece accounting for more than 2000 enemy killed, wounded, or captured, destroyed 15 bridges, 11 locomotives, 32 train cars, 63 military vehicles, 6 garrisons, and more than 9000 meters of rail. Their successful actions earned them a US Army record number of individual Bronze Star Medals and the prestigious Presidential Unit Citation. On 26 May 2005, they were recognized with the unveiling of a statue in their honor by then Greek Defense Minister, Spilios Spiliotopoulos, at the Armed Forces Park in Athens. In his address to the US and Greek officials, veterans, widows, and family members of the Greek Battalion gathered, Minister Spiliotopoulous stated “the actions of the Greek American volunteers express in general their contribution in all our nation’s struggles and exemplifies the attachment to modern Greece with the ancient values and ideals of our Hellenism.” In March of 2018, OSS and OG veterans were honored once more, at the Capitol in Washington, DC, in a ceremony awarding them the Congressional Gold Medal. With thousands of documents related to their exploits yet to be declassified by the US government, expect to hear more about these brave warriors who went into harm’s way, willing to make the ultimate sacrifice for both the United States and Hellas. Some great books about the OSS and the Operational Groups are: Donovan’s Devils, OSS Commandos Behind Enemy Lines-Europe, WWII by Albert Lulushi, Behind the Lines in Greece: The Story of OSS Operational Group II by Robert E. Perdue, Jr., and Classical Spies: American Archaeologists with the OSS in WWII Greece by Susan Heuck Allen. Commander Demetries Grimes has served as Naval Attaché to Greece, Naval Attaché to Israel, Deputy Commander of the US base in Crete, and Advisor to NATO’s Maritime Commander in London, UK.
athens insider | 101 |
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Intelligence Service (MI6), British Special Air Service (SAS), and Special Operations Executive (SOE). The Greek Battalion was comprised primarily of Greek-Americans, but also included Greek merchant mariners who joined the US Army from Greek ships stuck in US ports. They were volunteers and made aware of the inherent risk of serving in the commando units. Fewer than ten percent were expected to survive their tour of duty. Aware of the threat these special units would pose, Adolf Hitler issued an order on Oct 18, 1942, Fuhrer Edict No. 003830/42g, which stated: “From now on all enemies on so called Commando Missions in Europe or Africa, challenged by German troops, even if they are to all appearances soldiers in uniform or demolition troops, whether armed or unarmed, in battle or in flight, are to be slaughtered to the last man.” It was also rumored that Hitler offered a capture reward for Commandos equivalent to their weight in gold.
PHOTOGRAPHY
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PHOTOGRAPHY
Deck Class on the Despina. The ship was a regular visitor to Mykonos and was affectionately known as "Despinaki" which means "Little Despina". It was owned by the Foustanos Family. Deck Class was fine when the wind and seas were calm, but when the winds rose it was a very different scene as passengers tried to avoid the sea spray and find a solid hand-hold.
Mykonos, an island that once was Robert McCabe’s black and white images capture a poetic, poignant Mykonos whose charms he finds have been all but tainted with its newly minted patina as the island of party excesses and bling. This book is a precious reminder of just how much has been lost and how much is still worth saving.
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M
y first visit to Mykonos was in the summer of 1955. From the vantage point of those days on that magical quiet island with one 12-passenger bus and a plethora of donkeys it was absolutely inconceivable what would happen over the ensuing 60 years. On the day I arrived, there were some 15 visitors on the island. These days, on a typical summer day, the island expects between 120,000 and 140,000 visitors. So, in 1955, here was a small exceptionally beautiful island with little electricity, no cars, motorbikes, running water, tractors, TV or internet, no airport, no dock, and essentially no tourists. But artists and writers had already identified Mykonos as a special place some decades before my first visit, for many reasons. One was the beauty of the architecture of Chora and its extraordinary setting directly on the sea. Most Choras - island main villages - are built in the hills hidden from view from the sea to avoid so pirates wouldn’t get interested. But the Mykonians - either audaciously unafraid of pirates or because they were among the pirates - built directly on the sea, some houses so close that a captain could disembark directly into his living room. There were other unique attractions too: the warmth and hospitality of its people, the beaches with unusually fine Aegean sand, the proximity to Delos and its important archaeological site, the unspoiled landscape with its spectacular rock formations, and generations of hard-won terracing created to expand and maintain agriculture.
St Panteleimon Monastery. Michalis Rabias on the santouri. The young woman is Argyro Kypraiou. It appears they are dancing the kalamatianos, a popular folk dance. Panigyria, the religious festivals in Mykonos, are still among the most vibrant in the Aegean. Many of the customs and traditions of Mykonos have been preserved despite the massive tourism development
Mykonos was like an independent island principality with its own culture, its own dances, songs, poetry, cuisine, textiles, architecture, and even language. It is not an exaggeration to say that life in Mykonos has changed more in these past 60 years than it did in the prior 3000 years. All of this had evolved and been carefully honed over a period of thousands of years, through wars, occupations, drought, and other calamities. You cannot underestimate the isolation of these Aegean islands in the age of sail and how unique and distinctive cultures evolved there. It is not an exaggeration to say that life in Mykonos has changed more in these past 60 years than it did in the prior 3000 years. It was an undisturbed example of a very carefully polished, self-sufficient Aegean civilization. How incredibly lucky I was to see it in those days when it was still just on the threshold of such dramatic change. A few hours after I arrived I wrote a letter to my parents in New York and dispatched it at the post office. I told them I had found the most beautiful place on earth and even if they came directly from the United States and saw nothing else, it would be worthwhile to come and see just Mykonos. I know this must sound made-up today but it is true. If you don’t believe me I will try to find the letter. This year Mykonos is expecting two million visitors. One senses there’s been a huge explosion - an explosion of houses, cars, tour buses, motorbikes, villas, roads, and people from all over the universe. That incredible magnificent little village by the sea has become a huge shopping center with virtually every retailer you can name present. But where is the bakery, where are the
blacksmiths, where are the caiques and the donkeys? Outside of Chora, the landscape is dense with villas. This is progress of its own sort, and the economist in us applauds the enormous economic success of the island, the envy of its Aegean neighbours.
The sailor steadies himself with one hand as a slightly apprehensive young girl reaches to the man in the tender. In rough seas these hand offs were an adventure foor all parties
In the period after the war people started to move out of the Aegean islands, seeking work on the mainland or abroad. Houses were sometimes abandoned when families emigrated. Development and tourism have saved some island villages, and they have given employment to the local population and kept them in place. That has been good. Mykonos has been saved beyond imagination...and also beyond recognition. In 1955, Chora had evolved for the pleasure, economic viability, convenience and edification of its inhabitants, not to lure tourists. The streets were narrow and complex for protection. The churches were the objects of faith, of hope, of salvation at sea. It was an authentic and admirable civilization, perfect in its way to serve its residents. In the 1950s you took only real ships to Mykonos, often very old ships. The sea-going high-speed buses of today did not exist. You could smell the sea and feel it. You transitioned to shore by leaping into a bobbing tender and gripping a gunwale for dear life as the meltemi’s wild sea spray hit your face. Who could have guessed that docks would replace tenders and then ferry ports would replace docks; airports would be built and a huge cruise ship harbor would be constructed. The island would become a super prime tourist destination for the world. athens insider | 104 |
PHOTOGRAPHY
St Panteleimon Monastery. Konstantinos Rabias plays the violin while his son Nikolakis strums the laouto. a string instrument of the lute family found in Greece and Cyprus.
History is repeating itself. Delos had been a great and renowned international commercial center in antiquity. Mykonos has today taken up the mantle of its tiny ancient neighbor. The island has reinvented itself as a happy, fashionable place for people to shop, vacation, party, dine, relax by the sea (in â‚Ź100 lounge beds with an umbrella). They shop surrounded by some of the most beautiful architecture in the world. Yet we know in our hearts that something has been lost.
St Panteleimon Monastery. The priest is Vasilis Athimaritis; the lady with the cigarette is Elli Polimeropoulou, the godmother, and the lady between her and the priest is Katie Koumarianou. On the priest' right in the camera view is Aikaterini Georgouli. The boy baptised is shown in part on the right, George Tsitas
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When I look at my photographs today I feel like an archaeologist might feel when uncovering some carefully wrought object from the past that illuminates the history, mores, life and ethos of a long ago era. The photos feel to me like precious relics. They were the years just before tourism changed the face of the island forever. The wonderful thing about photography is that it provides a true historic document of a scene or activity and at the same
athens insider | 105 |
PHOTOGRAPHY
When I look at my photographs today I feel like an archaeologist might feel when uncovering some carefully wrought object from the past that illuminates the history, mores, life and ethos of a long ago era. The photos feel to me like precious relics. They were the years just before tourism changed the face of the island forever.
1955. A view from Kamnaki toward St Anna's beach, with the small chapel of St Anna visible behind the beach. On the right, the hostorical Hotel Delos owned by the Fiorentinos family. Just behind the camera is the Archaelogical Museum. Today the area is called Remezzo, after the renowned bar.
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PHOTOGRAPHY
(Left) The pantopoleion, or general goods store of Dimitras Daktylidis. The fruit is from Mykonos. On the left is Nicholas Nazos and on the right, Anastasis Xidakis
(Below) The twin churches of St Barbara and St Fanourios. On the left, behind the tree (now gone) are the chapels of St George and the Three Wells. Legend has it that if a girl offered a man water from the middle well he would ask her to marry him. The dress of the young women points to their coming from the countryside, perhaps with farm produce for the market
time offers the photographer an opportunity to present some interesting or artistic elements in a surprising or fresh way. I thought I would be returning for the rest of my life to photograph from new angles this undisturbed place. I was wrong and unfortunately I didn’t bring enough film those early years to really do my job properly, given the impending change. I am especially disappointed that I did not photograph more of the architecture and landscape of the island before retail signage and villa construction changed their character. It is sad that this year’s two million visitors cannot have the experience of Mykonos in 1955, the experience of an ancient authentic Aegean civilization. Fortunately we have Chora with its architecture fundamentally intact. This is a treasure of incalculable value. If these photos can help a visitor or a grandchild of the island relive or imagine some small aspect of the island’s earlier life I will be happy.
R
obert McCabe grew up in Rye, New York and started taking photographs when he was five. His earliest quest was for newsworthy photographs and he gathered images of hurricanes, drownings, and auto and train accidents. His first photographs of Europe were the result of a trip in 1954 to France, Italy, and Greece. He returned to Greece in 1955, and in 1957 he photographed in the Cyclades for National Geographic Magazine. Currently he is working on several projects including books: “Portraits of the Greeks 1954-2017”; “The Greeks and Their Seas”; Kassos 1965 with Marilen Kedros, and “Santorini: Portrait of a Vanished Era” with Margarita Pournara. Mykonos: Portrait of a Vanished Era, Published by Patakis Publications.
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A French couple pause to take a photograph in front of the mill of Yeronymo on a windy day. Little Venice is spread out below.
ARTS & EVENTS
Pame
Theatro!
With nearly 300 theatres and 2000 shows being staged annually, Athens boasts more theatres per capita than any other European capital - proof that the art form is alive and well in the land of Sophocles and Aristophanes. Athens Insider investigates the Athenian’s fascination for drama and revisits some of the capital’s most endearing venues.
The National Theatre of Greece Ag. Konstantinou 22 , n-t.gr Tel. +30 21 0528 8100
I
t is the land of tragedy and comedy, parody and satire, of sagas and myths - following in the grand tradition of playwrights of yore. Theatre still holds centre-stage as an entertainment option of choice for millions of Greeks. Despite the crisis, Athens is home to 293 theatres, not counting improv stages and pop-up theatres. A look at some of the capital’s most endearing venues - from the majestic Municipal Theatre of Piraeus, the National Theatre of Greece (helmed now by the visionary Dimitris Ligniadis), the iconic Pallas theatre, the historic Karolos Koun theatre and the Michael Cacoyiannis Foundation. Explaining the paradox
of the rise in number of performances during the economic downturn, Aris Asproulis, Director of Communication at the Art Theatre Karolos Koun observes, “Paradoxically, theatre has thrived in Athens despite the 10-year crisis period, or rather because of it. Theatre was an artistic escape from mundane preoccupations and political disappointments for most Athenians. Greek theatre has also been a very accessible venue for amateurs. So, a large number of the unemployed youth gravitated naturally towards theatre – and that explains the phenomenal increase in the number of performances per season since 2012.”
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Municipal theatre, Piraeus This grande dame of theatre raised its screens for the first time in April 1895. Since then it has been through dramas of its own with closures and lack of funds but in a happy ending, is back in its newly restored glory, to its exulted position as a purveyor of entertainment.
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Iroon Polytechniou 32, Piraeus Tel. +30 21 0414 3310 www.dithepi.gr
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THREE MUST-WATCH PLAYS THIS SEASON Karolos Koun: The Seagull Born bang in the midst of the Second World War, in 1942, almost as if to counter the human catastrophe around with deeper thought and analysis of the human psyche, the theatre has nurtured budding Greek theatrical talent and has been an introductory point for Greeks to enjoy foreign plays. It continues to stage classical and modern theatre productions and is currently staging Chekhov's The Seagull (Glaros), directed by Yiannis Paraskevopoulos. 14 Frynichou Street, Plaka, Plaka Tel. 210.3241193
Pallas Theatre: Onassis, I want it all Housed in the impressive Army Pensions Fund building, Pallas has been one of the iconic outposts for Athens’ theatre-loving public for decades. Recently renovated to make the theatre-experience an even more enjoyable one, the highly anticipated theatre season opens with Stamatis Fasoulis’ work on the life and times of Greece’s most celebrated personality, Aristotle Onassis, “Onassis – I want it all” Pallas,Voukourestiou 5. Syntagma Tel: 0030. 210.321.3100
Michael Cacoyiannis Foundation: Lulu Lulu is the face that launched a thousand fantasies. She is all things to all men. She is a snare and the one who sets you free, the hunter and the hunted. She is amoral but also curiously selfless, the femme fatale who embraces death at the hands of Jack the Ripper. She is a contradiction. She is a blank. She is what you want her to be. Her name is Lulu and she is nothing but trouble. She certainly was to her creator, the German playwright Frank Wedekind. Adapted and Directed by Yannis Houvardas. The production opens at the Michalis Cacoyannis Foundation on November 6. Michael Cacoyiannis, Pireos 206, Tel: 0030 210.341.8550 athens insider | 110 |
HISTORY IS BEING REWRITTEN.
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A drunken promise... and then some jazz A cross between a hallowed landmark and an edgy, intimate, no-frills joint, The Half Note Jazz Club has had a roster of bonafide musical titans, avant-garde boppers and bands-in-residence to claim its rightful place among the most influential jazz venues in the world. As it celebrates its four decades in show business in style, a grateful city thanks the passion and perseverance of brothers George and Panagiotis Georgas and Dimitris Diktakis for the music, magic and emotions they have charged countless Athenian evenings with.
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t all started with a drunken promise when the original Half Note was threatened with closure. Like most inebriated words, when brothers George and Panagiotis Georgas promised they’d do everything to help Dimitris Diktakis keep the club alive, they were forgotten with the next morning’s hangover. Dimitris reminded them persistently and finally the brothers came through with a venue - a former marble tombstone parlour, just across Athens’ cemetery where the city’s greats are laid to rest. “We didn’t find any skeletons, but the marble floor was a mosaic of recycled tombstones!” reminisces Panagiotis Georgas. What started off as a very romantic idea, soon found the brothers with frequent overnight stints in prison, (the licences were always questioned even though they were legit!) financial anxieties and the onus of putting on live-acts from across the Atlantic, week after week. They pulled it off, pioneering in the bargain, an improvised jazz music scene in Athens where New York sounds meet the electricity of Chicago, romantic Mediterranean ballads cross-over with the fiery passion of Buenos Aires. Looking back on their 40-year journey, “imprinted on countless bricks, at 250 live concerts each year, in the hundreds of small and big stories they hide, and in the unforgettable
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01. Panagiotis and George Georgas and Dimitris Deiktakis 2. Boticelli Baby 03. Lucky Peterson © Florian Duboe 04. Gisele Jackson 05. Petter Molvaer 06. Marlon James ©Anthony Joseph 05 06
It is easy to walk past the inconspicuous door that leads to Half Note, wedged as it is between a morbid array of funerary flower parlours, undertakers and tombstone markers. Its unlikely setting amongst the city’s dead, if anything, has only heightened the intrigue and awe the club holds amongst its legion of jazz fans.
The club’s reliable sound and fully equipped stage attracted the attention of the most important names in creative music and set the tone for an authentic live story-making jazz scene, with a completely different interactive story every evening. Jazz legends such as Archie Shepp, Benny Golson, Chico Hamilton, Steve Lacy and Lou Donaldson have graced the Half Note and blues greats such as Magic Slim, Hubert Sumlin, Big Joe Turner, Linda Hopkins, Carey & Lurrie Bell, and Lucky Peterson have performed to appreciative fans multiple times. In the ’90s and ’00s, the Half Note integrated world and ethnic music into its programme by hosting great artists of this endless genre. Celebrate the Half Note’s remarkable milestone this season with the legendary Lucky Peterson capping his 50-year career, Charles McPherson, Billy Harper, Dave Murray, Jesse Davis, Eddie Henderson, Fred Wesley, Petter Molvaer who comes to Greece for the first time, Piazzola's partner and Grammy legend Pablo Ziegler and many others.
MARK YOUR CALENDARS In November: Jonathan Kreisberg quartet on November 12 Billy Harper quintet on November 15 and 19 Anthony Joseph & People of the Sun on November 22 and November 25 In December: Cinema Paradiso on December 5 Velvet Candles, from December 20 to 26 Prof. Cunningham & his Old School from December 27 to 30 In January: George Kontrafouris Trio on January 8 Jesse Davis Quartet from January 24 to 27 In February: Boticelli Baby from February 21 to 24 In March: Eddie Henderson Quartet from March 6 to 9 Bys Trio, The Charlie Haden Project on March 11 Half Note Jazz Club, Trivonianou 17, Mets. Tel: +30.210.921.3310, Tickets at viva.gr or at halfnoteathensclub@gmail.com
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musical emotions that have been offered,” Georgas confesses that the success of the club was largely thanks to their choice of “honest music, that speaks to the soul,” and not financial wizardry.
STYLE
Eugenia Chandris
A Magic Cabinet A world of contemporary wonders Hotelier, author and founder of ‘A Magic Cabinet’, Eugenia Chandris draws inspiration from sixteenth century magic cabinets or cabinets of curiosity (Kunstkabinetts) - a treasure trove of extraordinary, strange, exotic or unusual elements that reflected the sometimes obsessive vision of their collectors. Such receptacles were the harbingers of what we now know as museums but instead of affording access to everyone, these adored collections were the enchanted privilege of their owners. A Magic Cabinet is a unique, multi-platform experience for people who seek to discover the most exquisite and eclectic products from selected producers and designers. Here you can discover and source or connect with all of those contemporary elements that will make up your personal magic cabinet. It is also a unique place for bringing together influential trendsetters, tastemakers and curators telling the personal stories behind their favourite and sometimes unique products and experiences. amagiccabinet.com athens insider | 114 |
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Exploring Athinas’ hidden charms with Chef Nikos Karathanos
©Nikos Karanikolas
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As the youngest Greek chef to have earned a Michelin star at 27, Nikos Karathanos has been quick to eschew the trappings that come with being a celebrity chef and has remained grounded to his roots. He speaks to Sudha Nair-Iliades while strolling through Athinas, “where the city’s heart really beats, where times stands still despite the chaos and bustle, where the fragrant Greek hillsides infused with sage and thyme come alive in the narrow alleys of its spice shops.” A reminder that the secrets to fine cooking, like Athens’ charms, lie in its simplicity, passion and creative chaos.
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ikos Karathanos grew up in the working-class neighbourhood of Neo Irakleio, with no exposure to fine dining or molecular gastronomy. What he did have going for him was his brash ambition to excel in the world of haute gastronomy – on his own terms.
stars and awards to re-discover cuisine as it should be – with quality raw materials that show off a dish more than complicated processes do. Attitudes are changing towards food, as are portions. Dishes are becoming more intimate, but no less thoughtful.”
He works with the top names in Greek gastronomy - Michelin chefs Lefteris Lazarou and Jerome Serres, from whom he learnt valuable lessons - and with Apostolos Trastelis, the enterprising spirit behind bastions of fine dining in Greece, Spondi, Hytra and Fuga. Nikos learnt quickly, and before long, bagged two Michelin stars, becoming the youngest-ever Greek chef to do so.
“I prefer being called a cook, rather than a chef,” Karathanos insists. “I am not dazzled by frilly, foamy cuisine. I’m all for comfort food, of refining my grandmother’s recipes from her childhood in Constantinople, and to deconstruct menus to their most elemental form.”
After his stints at Hytra, Galazia Hytra and Cookoovaya, Nikos Karathanos is currently the creative inspiration at Vittoria Gati, an Italian trattoria in Glyfada, helmed by restaurateur George Papakostas. “I felt the need to leave behind the the safety of the kitchens that brought me my
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©Nikos Vardakastanis
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Little wonder then that his footsteps unerringly lead him to the vibrant, colourful Athens' central market, with its tangle of smells, sounds and faces that remind him of “my childhood and memories of Athens as it used to be – before the advent of supermarkets, fast food and cafeterias.”
©Nikos Karanikolas
Which international chef does he most resemble? When I was younger, I was in awe of Ferran Adria and Gordon Ramsay, but temperamentally, I identify more with Jamie Oliver’s accessible, boy-next-door approach to food. I like getting my hands dirty, sharing my love for food, rather than making it seem like an esoteric art.”
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©Nikos Vardakastanis
What I love about Athinas and its “hole-in-the-wall” shops are its endless possibilities. You can find anything from icons and incense to fresh fruit and vegetables, herbs, garden tools, kitchen ware, aprons - everything!
©Nikos Vardakastanis
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#01 ON FISH & FRIENDSHIPS
©Nikos Karanikolas
As we wind through the Central Market, Nikos pauses to catch up with his go-to fishmonger. “It is the human aspect of looking for produce at the Central Market that explains my love of this part of town. You learn so much just chatting with people passionate about food and you make lasting friendships too, in the bargain.”
#02 SUGAR N SPICE AND ALL THINGS NICE At Elixir, the smells of a Greek hillside comes alive. Sea sponges vie for room with spice jars, pastourma strings dangle from the ceiling, oregano bouquets overwhelm with their pungent aroma, wicker baskets hark back to a time long gone.
Nikos’ cuisine has always shown a bias to vegetables and legumes too, “long before it became a fad.” “Greece is fortunate to have sun-kissed vegetables that lend it a naturally rich flavour. Add to that the different terroirs - from volcanic soil to mountainous regions and coastal areas and the flavour palette is that much richer. That is what distinguishes a carrot from one region to another. Our culinary history is testimony to the abundance of vegetables, bulbs and roots in our diet.”
#03 GOING GREEN “One of the things I would especially like to do is to re-introduce the goodness of vegetables and greens to meatobsessed teens by making it more appealing, more street-food inspired.”
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©Nikos Karanikolas
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#04 MEATY ENCOUNTERS
Named after the ancient city's patron goddess, Athinas joins what in the young Greek capital of the 19th century were its two vital hubs: the squares of Monastiraki (little monastery), representing the centre of the hamlet that Athens was reduced to under Byzantium and then Ottoman rule, and Omonia (concord), conceived as the new seat of power (though, in the end, the royal palace was built just above Syntagma and is today's House of Parliament). The Varvakeios Agora, built between 1877 and 1886 by architect Ioannis Koumelis and an example of the work of first generation of Greek architects - who followed in the footsteps of the Bavarian Ernst Ziller and the Danish Hansen brothers responsible for introducing the neoclassical style to Athens. Named after caviar merchant Ioannis Varvakis, it was excavation work on the Central Market that revealed the Roman Agora. The meat and fish markets, with raucous vendors, competing for the attention of the daily throng of shoppers, are the busiest section of the market.
“What I love about Athinas is that the shops follow a pattern handed down through time, coming in groupings selling similar wares: the modern-day version of pre-Independence esnafia or sinafia, the guilds of blacksmiths, tanners and leather-workers, or grocers that made up the social fabric of merchant Athens,” enthuses Karathanos. The tailors have transformed into shops selling clothes and workmen's garb, the blacksmiths have turned into ironmongers, the tanners and leather-workers have joined ranks and become outlets for sandals, shoes or other leather goods, the grocers
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A BIT OF HISTORY:
The butcher at Pirlibos at the Central Market, whom Nikos has been visiting since he was 16, stocks “the best Greek beef from Karditsa and Corinth, organic beef from Naxos and pork from Chalkida. And he stocks the best jokes too!”
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©Angelos Giotopoulos
“Whatever my initial mood, once I have wended my way in and out of this vibrant neighbourhood – revelling in the vigorous atmosphere, the incessant movement and the babble of many tongues – I always come home feeling lighter than I did upon setting out.” athens insider | 120 |
©Nikos Karanikolas
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#05 COFFEE BREAK My favourite cafe Odori on Skouleniou is where I unwind with my weekend newspaper after my early morning round of shopping.
#06 METHOD IN MADNESS Doorways framed by a collection of brushes, scissors and coat-hangers, steps blocked by shallow baskets holding washers, plugs and an assortment of tools, flyswats, doormats and shoelaces. It is chaotic, colourful and everything Athinas is about! continue being grocers – and the meat, fish vegetable and fruit markets have also joined the dance, though further along the street towards Omonia Square.
NIKOS' INSIDER TRACK Odori Cafe, Skouleniou 2, Tel: +30 21 0331 4674 Pirlibos Kreata, Athens Central Market, Filopimenos 14, Tel: +30 210 3216879 Elixir, Evripidou 41, Tel: +30 21 0321 5141 Lentzos: Athinas 26, Tel: +30 210 321 7136
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“This continues to be a true neighbourhood, where people still pass the time of day and take those few seconds to greet you with a smile and a word before serving you. Here, time flows at a pace slow enough to allow human relations to be established and grow from one visit to the next and money is not all that counts.”
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HOTEL FOOD &REVIEW DRINK
bars for beer lovers in Athens
ŠStephanie Wang
Great news for craft beer lovers out there. Ethel Dilouambaka does all the hard work of guzzling a few pints to curate the ultimate beer guide
STRANGE BREW TAPROOM & BOTTLESHOP In the up-and-coming neighborhood of Koukaki, one will find Strange Brew taproom on Falirou street. Here, you get to enjoy the delicious concoction of the eponymous brewery, as well as a few guest IPAs and ales. The star here is definitely the awesome Jasmine IPA, which can be found on the menus of several bars around town. While the bar is quite small, it has a cool, casual vibe which makes it a favorite among locals, ever since its recent opening. The staff, Orestis, Antonis and George, are the brains behind the brewery, which was established in 2015, and are always happy to chat about beer and their own products. And since Strange Brew is a tap room but also a shop, you can always leave the premises with a few bottles for you to enjoy home. Address: Falirou 86, Athens Tel: +30 21 0923 2146
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ARTS HOTEL CITY & REVIEW EVENTS LIFE
THE LOCAL PUB A veteran in the beer bars in Athens, the Local Pub, in the northern suburb of Chalandri, hardly needs an introduction for locals. This pub is definitely a favorite for several reasons. First, it is a smoke-free establishment. Second, the wide variety of draught beer available, including some of the freshest new products from Greek microbreweries, is simply impressive. Here, you can taste ales & IPAs, from Greek brands such as Anastasiou brewery, Alea Brewing Company and Mani Brewery, among others, as well as foreign labels such as Abnormal Beer Company or the Gypsy Hill Brew. Third, beside the beers on tap, the Local Pub also includes a vast selection of bottled beers from Greece and beyond. Fourth, the casual atmosphere and the knowledgeable staff contribute to making it a place where customers quickly turn into regulars. Chaimanta 25, Chalandri. Tel: +30 694 086 4443
PULP A stone’s throw from the Acropolis museum, the inquisitive beer lover will find Pulp, a friendly place where the beer is cheap and the vibe is relaxed. The menu includes a wide selection of beers, including several from local brewing companies, such as Noctua, one of the first Athenian microbreweries. We need to warn you though; chances are, what you thought was a quick pitstop to refresh yourself with a beer will turn into a long evening enjoying yourself chatting with fellow customers, while doing some people watching. Even more so in the summer, when tables are set on the street, just like a small street party. And this is exactly why we love it, a friendly bar where you feel more like a friend than a stranger. Address: Veikou 5, Athens. Tel: +30 21 1406 9835
It is virtually impossible to compile a list of the top beer bars in Athens without mentioning the aptly named BeerTime. Because at BeerTime, it is always time for a beer. Located in the heart of Psyrri, on Iroon square, this beer temple features a vast menu of local and foreign beers, mostly Greek, Bavarian and European beers. And just like in a German beergarten, BeerTime includes a small food menu with homemade cuisine & snacks, including bbq meat varieties, German sausages, salads, and even vegetarian dishes. And do we need to add that BeerTime, unlike many bars in Athens, actually has a happy hour between 4 and 5, so why not drop by then and decide for yourself? Address: Pl. Iroon 1, Athens. Tel: +30 21 0322 8443 athens insider | 123 |
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BEERTIME
BIBERE – HOUSE OF BEER
BEANS & HOPS
Located in Pasalimani, in Piraeus, Bibere made its entrance int the magical world of beer back in 2011. As such, it is definitely worth a visit if you are in the area. Here, you will find all types of beers for all tastes on tap and in bottles, while the staff won’t hesitate to make suggestions if you can’t decide what to try. At Bibere, local microbrewery IPA mingle with global beers to create a brilliantly interesting menu, with about 80 permanent labels and over 40 in constant rotation. Add to this an ample food menu with classic choices, such as burgers, as well as lighter options, all made to pair perfectly with the draught or bottled beer of your choice. Basically, all the ingredients are present for a perfect night in Piraeus. Address: Aggelou Metaxa 5, Pireas. Tel: +30 21 0411 0004
Located in the residential suburb of Ano Patisia, Beans & Hops is a fresh entry in the beer bar scene. As the name suggests, this establishment specializes in quality coffee and craft beers. As such, the minimalistic spot includes a bar dedicated exclusively to coffee and a second dedicated to serving delicious and refreshing beer, while we recommend you take advantage of the inviting outdoor seating area during the summer days. Beans and Hops has around 25 beer labels from Greek and foreign breweries and five taps; three of which serving domestic beers, while the other two host guest labels from abroad. We definitely think Beans & will quickly win the hearts of Athenians and visitors alike so make sure to drop by before it becomes so popular you can’t find a spot to sit at! Address: Avenue Irakliou 43, Athens. Tel: +30 21 0202 2026
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CITY LIFE
Greece's craft beer scene has been through an unprecedented boom, with some great microbreweries putting out unique and delicious hops and who knows soon we can look forward to bars that also brew on site!
The world of craft beer has also reached the southern borders of Athens too, of course! Located in Glyfada, Brewklyn is a small gastropub known for its extensive beer menu but also its delicious pizzas. And we cannot help to think that this winning combination is a strong contributor to the bar’s success. With over 80 names, including many new Greek craft beers and international brands as well, Brewklyn has made a name for itself in the southern suburbs. Don’t hesitate to ask if you have question, as owner Alex and its staff will be happy to direct you to the beer you would fancy. A true gem ideal for grabbing a pint with friends at the end of the day. Can you tell we are hooked? Address: Giannitsopoulou 3, Glyfada. Tel: +30 21 0894 3400
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BREWKLYN
RESTAURANT
A Fine Mess
Harvest
Autumn brunches & leaves The golden hues of autumnal leaves have yet to appear in the city. As for Athens, Autumn tends to include all the seasons within the same week. Regardless of the random golf-ball sized hailstorms, swiftly followed by scorching afternoons worthy of the beach, this season calls out for lazy Sunday brunches. Hot, roasted artisanal coffee, fluffy eggs and a Bloody Mary or two, are the perfect accompaniment for the Sunday blues, Elena Panayides finds. For heartier brunch fare, Kolonaki now has its very own Texan BBQ spot, with not one but two smokestacks that provide a hearty, smoky flavour to dishes such as spare-ribs with smoky beans, grain-fed Black Angus and Carolina style pulled-pork with fregola sarda and fig sauce. The gentleman’s mac and cheese with brisket tips and whiskey dressing, old fashioned cocktails and peach and cherry crumble are packed with flavour and belt-loosening effects! A Fine Mess, Skoufa 73, 211 1155725, fb: @finemessbbq For brunch with a Spanish twist, you can indulge in great huevos on the rooftop of the Acropolis museum at Harvest. Beyond the exceptionally breath-taking view of the archaeological site, the all-day brunch involves perfectly roasted coffee accompanied by dishes like Huevos de Castilla - poached eggs with guacamole and jalapeùos sauce on rustic whole-wheat bread or Huevos Cubanos, fried eggs on toasted rustic bread with chorizo sausage, spring onion and feta cheese. Their extensive wine list will also transport you to Spain, as you gaze at the Greek Wonder of the World. Harvest, Aiolou 64 & Evripidou, 21 3025 2284, fb: @Harvestcoffeewine athens insider | 126 |
A Fine Mess
ΑΡ.ΜΗΤ.Ε.: 0206E81000494100
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WE TRY HARDER W W W. AV I S . G R
To Lokali
To Lokali
The former Cine Psyrri is now Lokali, an all-day hangout spot. Greek brunch with eggs, pancakes and sandwiches are the perfect excuse to stay right through till closing time at 03am, (3.30 am at weekends) with coffee, beers, cocktails and high-quality taverna-style food. Greek twists on old classics such as an Old Fashioned made with tsipouro, geranium and strawberry are served in a lush courtyard for those crispy fall nights. To Lokali, Sarri 44, Tel: +30 210 325 0673 fb: @tolokaliathens
Fita
At Lucca in Holargos, as you sip on your Kudu Coffee Roasters espresso in a luscious boudoir-like space you can ponder whether the Nutella pancakes with caramelised banana or the burger in a freshly baked bun are calling your name. The all-day space transforms into the place to be, thanks to its divine cocktails, great people watching and welcoming ambience. Lucca, Mesogeion 250, Holargos, Tel: +30 210 6549002 If you’re feeling like the King or Queen of the world, head to Mask, the restaurant and bar housed in one of the many homes of the first Kings of Greece, King Othon. The antique filled space with a 1960s edge, offers up brunch every day from 10am to 6pm and much more. Many of the brunch dishes are whimsically served in baskets such as the eggs with graviera cheese, turkey, mushrooms, baby tomatoes and mincemeat pies. We recommend you end your meal with the rice pudding with mascarpone and hand-made halva or maybe a signature cocktail is your preferred dessert, with over 50 choices you’ll be happily satiated one way or the other. Mask, Kalamiotou 18 & Kolokotroni 55, Tel: +30 698 7454777 With a menu that changes daily, and its location in the residential area of Neos Kosmos and the pathway of the tram, Fita is unique in many ways. Chefs Fotis Fotinoglou and Thodoris Kassavetis select Greek produce, traditional recipes and then smask them up against world cuisine, resulting in dishes such as sushi made of skipjack and vineleaves. The simple, café like décor hides many a creative culinary adventure, as the tram whizzes by. Fita, Ntourm 1, Neos Kosmos, Tel: +30 697 434 0034
Lucca
In the coming soon category, keep an eye out for Ovio. Masterchef host Panos Ioannides will be cooking up authentic Milanese cuisine with risottos, pizzas and fiorentinas prepared in unique ovens that will guarantee that exquisite flavours of Italy will be reaching us all in downtown Athens imminently. Ovio, Kerameikos, details unavailable
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RESTAURANT
All Day Cafe Bar Restaurant Blends at Nymfon Square, in Glygada, combining in its architecture the urban aesthetics with natural elements, the modern interior design with artworks, succeeds in creating a patchwork of unique experiences by “blending” senses.
A lovely place in a perfect location! Located in Marina Vouliagmenis, Moorings Café | Bar | Restaurant stands with its elegant and discreet style as the most popular meeting point of Southern suburbs. Fully renovated, is the ideal place to enjoy daily a coffee, meal, dinner or cocktail from early in the morning until late in the evening. Combining exceptionally the panoramic view of Vouliagmenis natural landscape and the glamorous environment of the yachts, Moorings offers its guests a feeling of both calmness and relaxation.
Marina Vouliagmeni, 16671 Vouliagmeni, T 2109670659, T 2108961310, info@moorings.gr, moorings.gr athens insider | 129 |
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19 Phoebis & Laodikis, 16674 Glyfada, Attica, Greece, T +30 211-1821711
RESTAURANT
The bars you’ll want to seek
COULEUR LOCALE
Elena Panayides rounds up the coolest watering holes where the city's hipster set hang out
COULEUR LOCALE As the name suggests, this is where the locals go and many of them still aren’t in the know! Located in the Normanou alleyway off Ermou Street, you’ll hesitatingly enter an antique furniture shop. Past the dusty tables and chests of drawers step into the old school elevator that will gradually take you to one of Athens coolest rooftops, with a killer view and cocktails to match. Normanou 3, Monastiraki
SENIOS
SPEAKEASY If you’re felling in the mood for a little mystery this underground, prohibition style bar plays on American 1920s theme of being a speakeasy. If you find the door and make it underground to the correct entrance down the stairs then you’ll find incredible cocktails, great tunes and after 10pm there’s often live music too. Lekka 12, Syntagma
BARRELDIER Just off Syntagma square, in the Bolani arcade this is your aperitivo and aged drinks spot, select from the barrels above the bar where Boulevadier, Dry Martinis and Negronis are elegantly ageing. There isn’t a drink you won’t find him, and the delicious food menu mean you’ll have something to line your stomach with, before you overindulge in the aged beverages. Barreldier, Voulis 7, Stoa Bolani
SENIOS Just before the always happening Ay. Irene square, you’ll find Senios from the multiple-award winning team behind The Clumsies. This former material shop is now an all-day retro café boasts a long pink marble bar that’s specialty is Greek distilled drinks that pack a punch. Try the Old Fashioned with Metaxa Brandy, and revel in the classic cocktails with a nostalgic and modern twist. Kalamiotou 15, Athens
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Elevated Riviera brunching Mercato introduces the Sunday brunch from November 3 through to April, that luxurious meal between breakfast and lunch, a perfect fit for the late-to-bed, late-to-rise Mediterranean lifestyle, with a brunch menu that makes the weekend wait more than worth it!
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O
n Sundays, from 12.30pm to 4.30pm, spoil yourself for choice with an extensive buffet at the deli area of the restaurant, flaunting irresistible Italian assortments from the Salumeria and Fromageria counters, antipasti, a vitamin-packed salad bar and a seafood corner. Fully-committed to the indulgence required for a truly successful brunch, everything here is sourced from artisanal producers, hand-picked for their passion for tradition and authenticity, and expertly curated by Chef Roberto Cannata. At Mercato, the brunches are designed to be long, languoros affairs, so expect a selection of hot appetizers to be served at your table and choose one main course per person from the à la carte offering. End on a sweet note, with a decadent dessert buffet and an enticing array of desserts to perfectly seal your Mercato brunch experience. What’s more, mineral or sparkling water, tea and coffee are also included in the brunch menu. In seaside setting that becomes even more inviting as winter sets in, Mercato promises to be the weekend meeting point in the Athens Riviera.
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For reservations call: +30 210 8901316 or e-mail mercato.athens@fourseasons.com
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A Sanctuary for the
Senses
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As a venue, Vouliagmeni Lake ranks as one of the most spectacular fairy-tale settings in Greece. Its sage-scented cliffs, the reflection of its dramatic rocks illuminating its emerald waters, and its beautifully manicured lawns skirting the lake, evoke effortless elegance. But more than anything, the Lake is a sanctuary for the senses. Get seduced by the Lake’s inviting temperate waters year-round, indulge in a therapeutic swim, enjoy a coffee or a light salad at its all-day cafÊ and take in the majestic beauty of the Lake. For enquiries, email marketing@limnivouliagmenis.gr or visit vouliagmenilake.gr or call +30. 210. 896.2237
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ADVERTORIAL
ENDOCRINOLOGY IN GREECE A HOLISTIC APPROACH H BYDR DRPARI PARIRAPTI, RAPTI, ENDOCRINOLOGIST ENDOCRINOLOGIST BY Endocrinologyisisthe thescience science Endocrinology effects that studies studiesthe thecomplex complex effects of various hormones of various hormones as wellasas well as disturbances disturbances caused bycaused excesby or deficient siveexcessive or deficient levels oflevels those of those hormones. Endocrine hormones. Endocrine glands are glands are hormone-producing hormone-producing organs; hororgans; hormones themselves mones themselves involved are involved in thearemanagein the management and process ment and process of regulating of regulating and rehabilitating and rehabilitating various funcvarious functions tions of the body. of the body. They affect, among other They affect, among other things, things, metabolism, absorption metabolism, absorption of nutri of nutrients, physicalheight, growth, ents, physical growth, hair height, hair growth and skin growth and skin quality. Hormones quality. Hormones also shape also shape the way an organism the way an organism responds responds internal and external to internalto and external envienvironmental stimuli causing ronmental stimuli bybycausing biological activity every cellcell and biological activityin in every en the appropriate by providing and by providing the appropriate for the variousof ergy forenergy the various functions functions the The human body. the humanofbody. endocrine The endocrine consists system consistssystem of the hypothalaof the hypothalamus and of the mus and of the pituitary, thyroid, pituitary, thyroid, parathyroid, parathyroid, thymus and adrenal thymus and adrenal glands, as glands, well as the pancreas, the well as as the pancreas, the ovaovaries and the testicles. ries and the testicles. Hormonalsecretions secretions begin in adolescence, Hormonal adolescence,accompanying accompanying and determining –- the lives of women -– and women and and men men throughout throughout their lives. Chemical messengers transmit information crucial to starting with with sex sex hormones hormones produced produced to all all bodily bodily functions, functions, starting by the ovaries, including estrogen and progesterone, aswell well by the ovaries, including estrogen and progesterone, as as androgen from the adrenal gland, which must be present as androgen from the adrenal gland, which must be present in defined amounts in a woman’s body, as it’s responsible for breast development, the shape of the pelvis, the density breast the shape of the pelvis, the of the development, bones, the deposit of adipose tissuethe in density specificoflocations that grant femininity to the female body and also the grant femininity to the female body and also the stimulation stimulation of hair growth in various areas. In addition, the
of hairhormones growth in various areas. In same determine the regularity and rhythm of menaddition, the same hormones de struation, and affect the termine the regularity andpsyche. rhythm Inofmen, height, weight, hair admenstruation, and affect the hesion, middle fatweight, tissue, psyche.libido, In men, height, personality and the activity of hair adhesion, libido, middle fat thymus are all influenced by hortissue, personality and the activimones, especially testosterone. In general, the thymus is afhormones, especially testosterone. fected by sex hormones, which, In general, the thymus womamong other things, givesinthe feen affects sex characteristics, memale characteristics and affects metabolism, bonestructure, structure,fatty fattabolism, bone ty tissue and mood changes, eartissue and mood changes, early lymenstrual menstrualsyndrome, syndrome, cramps, cramps, pains, constipation, indigestion pains, constipation, indigestion and acne. and acne. Generally speaking, a balanced speaking, a balanced dietGenerally is necessary to maintain hordiet is necessary to maintain hormonal equilibrium from puberty monal equilibrium from puberty to menopause. Maintaining such atobalance is crucial to quality of menopause. Maintaining such life and longevity women. a balance is crucial for to quality of Hormones have cardio-proteclife and longevity for women. tive properties, psychotropic Hormones have cardio-protective properties (with effects that inproperties, psychotropic proper clude mood improvement and ties (with effects that include mood cognitive function improvement) improvement and cognitive func and help determine skin quality, tionmaintaining improvement) and help deter so the proper hor-mine skin quality, soparamount maintainingimportance. the proper hormonal balance monal balance is of a professional endocrinologist and, as such, my aim is isI’m of paramount importance. to diagnose and treat hormonal disorders restoring horI’m a professional endocrinologist and, as by such, my aim is to monal balance in the body. My specialty is diseases of the diagnose and treat hormonal disorders by restoring hormonal thyroid balancegland. in the body. My specialty is diseases of the thyroid gland. I also deal with aesthetic endocrinology (wellness and I also deal with aesthetic endocrinology (wellness and well-bewell-being), combining specific diets (with a focus on super-foods and/ or weight loss targets) with physical exercise or weight loss targets) with exercise and thermal and thermal spa sessions. Allphysical treatments are presented in spa an sessions. All treatments are presented in an holistic way in order holistic way in order to achieve a more attractive appearance to well achieve a morehealth. attractive appearance as well as better health. as as better
DR DR PARI PARI RAPTI RAPTI ENDOCRINOLOGIST ENDOCRINOLOGIST email: rapti.clinic@gmail.com email:pari@rapti.gr pari@rapti.gr | rapti.clinic@gmail.com
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Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.7679 Kapopoulos Fine Arts Varis - Koropiou Av. 94, Koropi Tel: 210.642.6573
see & do
Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 The Blender Gallery Zisimopoulou 4, Glyfada Tel: 213.028.0597 The George Economou Collection Art Gallery - Marousi Grammou 77, Agii Anargyroi, Marousi Tel: 210.809.0519 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, Athens, Tel: 210.331.9333
GALLERIES Artion Argyropoulou 1 & Levidi Dimitriou 16, Kifisia Tel: 211.210.6455 Voukourestiou 21 Tel: 212.104.4166 Four Seasons Lobby Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni Tel: 6944.477.383 A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psyrri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549
Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278, Kriezotou 6, Syntagma, Tel: 210.363.4454
CULTURAL VENUES Athinais Cultural Centre Astorias 34-36, Votanikos, Tel: 210.348.0000. B&M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens, Tel: 210.361.1206 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st., Athens, Tel: 210.643.9466
Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938
Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali, Tel: 210.728.2333 Michael Cacoyannis Foundation Piraeus 206, Tavros, Tel: 210.341.8550
Bernier - Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thissio, Tel: 210.341.3935 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxurgeio, Tel: 210.331.7527
Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou 107-109, Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000
Citronne Gallery Athens Patriarchou Ioakim 19, Tel :219.723. 5226
Stavros Niarchos Foundation Syngrou 364, Kallithea Tel: 216.809.1000
Eleni Marneri Galerie Lebessi 5-7& Porinou 16, Acropolis, Tel: 210.8619.488
The Art Foundation Normanou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.323.8757
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CULTURAL INSTITUTES French Institute Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210.339.8600 Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900 British Council Kolonaki Square 17, 106 73 Athens, Tel: 210.369.2333 Instituto Cervantes Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens, Tel: 210.363.4117 Goethe Institut Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens, Tel: 210.366.1000 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou Ave. 107-109, 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000 Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission (28 Oktovriou) 47, Tel: 210.369.2333, 210.524.2646
THEATRES Gialino Music Theatre Sygrou 143, N. Smyrni, Athens Tel: 210.9316.101-4 Pallas Theatre Voukourestiou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.321.3100
MUSEUMS Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos, Athens. Tel: 210.321.0185 Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens, Tel: 210.923.1502 spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502 history-museum.uoa.gr B&E Goulandris Museum of Modern Art Eratosthenous 13, Athens, Tel: 210.725.2895, goulandris.gr Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue, Athens, Tel: 210.367.1000, benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos. Tel: 210.325.1311, benaki.gr Benaki Museum, Pireos
Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1027 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Kallirrois Av. & Amvr. Frantzi street, Athens, Tel: 210.924.2111- 3 Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros, Tel: 212.254.0000 hellenic-cosmos.gr Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Athens, Tel: 210.722.8321, cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210.346.1981 Apostolou Pavlou 37, Thissio Tel: 211.012.6486, herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni, Acropolis. Tel: 210.922.7260, lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka,Tel: 210.322.5582 jewishmuseum.gr Kerameikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552 Kotsanas Museum of Ancient Greek Technology Pindarou 6, Athens Tel: 211.411.0044 National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens, Tel: 210.363.5953, nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, Acropolis, Tel: 210.924.1043 theacropolismuseum.gr The National Art Gallery and Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 & Vas. Constantinou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.723.5857
FASHION Ancient Greek Sandals Kolokotroni 1, Athina 105 62 Tel : 210.323.0938
JEWELLERY
Callista Crafts Voukourestiou 11 Tel : 210.364.7989 Occhio Papavassiliou - Glyfada Leof. Dimarchou Aggelou Metaxa 34, Glifada 166 74 Tel: 210.894.8510 Occhio Papavassiliou – Athens Stadiou 5, Athina 105 62 Tel: 210.321.0042 Kokkoris Optics Pl. Esperidon 3, Glifada 166 74 Tel : 210.898.0850 Linea Piu Sekeri 6 Tel : 210.360.6125
Bulgari Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki Tel: 210.324.7118, Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories Cartier Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison Chopard Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou Tel: 210.325.0555 Legendary time pieces and jewellery.
Luisa World Skoufa 15 Tel : 210.363.5600
Elena Votsi Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation pieces in gold and stone
Louis Vuitton Voukourestiou St Tel : 210.361.3938 Panaidis Eyewear Boutique Artemidos 2, Glifada 166 74 Tel : 210.892.0934 Milioni 12 & Iraklitou 2, Kolonaki T: 210 3616683
Fanourakis Patriarchou Ioakim 23, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings
Zadig & Voltaire Voukourestiou 13 Tel : 210.364.0222
Folli Follie Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Kolonaki, Tel: 210.323.0739 Greece's high-street export stocks watches and everyday bijoux
Zeus + Dione Voukourestiou 6 Tel : 210.323.0132
Georgios P. Voulis 35, Athina Tel : 210.331.2220
DEPT. STORES Attica Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury brands , designer shoes and cosmetics Athens Metro Mall Vouliagmenis Avenue 276, Tel: 210.976.9444 Shops, cinemas and food Golden Hall Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 High-end (and high-street) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion McArthurGlen Building Block E71, Yalou, 19004, Spata, Tel: 210.663.0830, 210.663.0840 Designer Outlet Shopping Centre with value-for-money promotions The Mall Athens Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food
Apriati Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed jewellery for the young
Ilias Lalaounis Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller Kessaris Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces Marathianakis Karagiorgi Servias 4 (Stoa Kalliga), Tel: 210.362.7118 & 210.322.2424 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs Marco Bicego Boutique Voukourestiou 20, Athina Tel : 210.363.6900 Nikos Koulis Filikis Eterias 15, Kolonaki Square, Athens Tel: +30.210.723.3783 Contemporary designer jewellery Odysseus Jewels Voukourestiou 20, Athens
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Tel: +30. 211.220.4500 Wide range of jewellery and watches Omega Voukourestiou 2, Kolonaki Tel: 210.322.7682 Elegant boutique showcasing the brand's timeless timepieces Pentheroudakis Voukourestiou 19, Tel: 210.361.3187 Timeless pieces inspired by classical Greek design Van Cleef & Arpels Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki Tel: 210.331.0319 The jeweller of the international jetset Venetia Vildiridis Voukourestiou 11 and El. Venizelou 8, Tel: +30.210.363.5145, +30 210.321.9408 FAX: +30 210.360.2896 Kassaveti 19, Kifissia Tel: +30. 210. 623. 6617 Original designer jewellery pieces and watches Zerteo Jewellery Kiprou 78, Glifada Tel : 210.894.6682 Zolotas Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the ancient Greece as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso
SOUVENIRS Anamnesia Athens International Airport Departure Terminal, Tel: 210 3533104 Andrianou 99, Plaka Tel: 214.687.0704 Matogianni, Myconos, Tel: 2289 079171 anamnesia.gr Acropolis Museum Shop 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou, Tel: 210.900.0911 Benaki Museum Shop Koumbari & Vas. Sofias Tel: 210.367.1045, Four Seasons Lobby, Apollonos 40 Tel: 210.890.2000 www.benakishop.gr Museum of Cycladic Art Shop Neophytou Douka 4, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.8321-3 www.cycladic.gr
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Pireos 138 & Andronikou, Gazi Tel: 210.345.3111, benaki.gr
useful info
EMBASSIES ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Tel: 210.687.6200 ALGERIA Vas. Constantinou 14, Athens Tel: 210.756.4191-2 ARGENTINA Vas. Sophias 59, Athens Tel: 210.724.4158 ARMENIA K. Palaiologou 95, Athens, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145 AUSTRALIA Kifisias & Alexandras, Ampelokipoi, Tel: 210.870.4000 AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Av. 4, Athens, Tel: 210.725.7270 AZERBAIJAN Skoufa 10, Athens, Tel: 210.363.2721 BANGLADESH Marathonodromon 119, Palaio Psychiko, Tel: 210.672.0250 BELGIUM Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.0314 BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Hatzikosta 3, Athens, Tel: 210.641.0788 BRAZIL Vassilis Sofias 23, Athens Tel: 210.721.3039 BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.8105 CANADA Eth. Antistaseos 48, Halandri, Tel: 210.727.3400 CHILE Rigilis 12, Athens, Tel: 210.729.2647 CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.3282 CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.677.7033 CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei, Tel: 210.685.5550 CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A, Athens, Tel: 210.373.4800 CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.671.9701 DENMARK Mourouzi 10, Athens, Tel: 210.725.6440 EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.8612 ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4, Ampelokipoi,
Tel: 210.747.5660 FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens, Tel: 210.725.5860 FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.339.1000 FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.9585 GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2186 GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Athens, Tel: 210.728.5111 HUNGARY Karneadou 25, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.725.6800 INDIA Kleanthous 3, Mets, Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2345 IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16, Patisia, Tel: 210.674.1436 IRAQ Mazaraki 4, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.8276 IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7, Mets, Tel: 210.723.2405 ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.670.5500 ITALY Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.361.7260 JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri, Tel: 210.670.9900 JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.4161 KAZAKHSTAN Imittou 122, Papagou, Tel: 210.654.7765 KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens, Tel: 210.698.4080 KUWAIT Marathonodromon 27, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3593 LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.675.5873 LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2120 LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4356 LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38, Athens Tel. 210.729.4483
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LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofitou Vamva 2, Syntagma, Tel: 210.725.6400 MALTA V. Sofias 96, Athens, Tel: 210.778.5138 MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.729.4780 MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei, Tel: 210.699.0660 MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.4210 NETHERLANDS Vas. Konstantinou 5-7, Mets, Tel: 210.725.4900 NIGERIA Streit 17, Filothei, Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens Tel: 210.724.6173 PAKISTAN Loukianou 6, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.729.0122 PALESTINE Giassemion 13, P. Psychico, Tel.: 210.672.6061-3 PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus, Tel: 210.428.6441 PERU Semitelou 2, Athens, Tel: 210.779.2761 PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.1837 POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.679.7700 PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784 QATAR Perikleous 2 & Kifissias Av. 212, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.8875 RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.5235 SAUDI ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias Annis, Halandri, Tel: 210.671.6911 SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Athens, Tel: 210.777.4344 SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou, Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.677.1980
EMERGENCIES EMERGENCY NUMBERS Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016. They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer. Ipirou 1, Athens. Duty Pharmacies Tel:1434 Also check newspapers for listings. Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434 Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777
Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coast Guard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000 ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 1158 HEALTH PAEDIATRIC HOSPITALS EUROCLINIC PAEDON Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900 PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi, Tel: 210.746.7000 PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi, Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535 PRIVATE HOSPITALS CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS Asklipiou St. 31, Athens, Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000, centralclinic.gr EUROCLINIC Diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre. Athanasiadou 9, Athens, (near Mavili Sq.), Tel: 210.641.6600 EURODENTICA Specialized dental care Patision 150, Athens, Tel: 210.866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi, Athens, Tel: 210.619.5760-1, El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea, Athens, Tel: 210.956.5365 YGEIA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi, Tel: 210.686.7000, ygeia.gr IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER) Areos 36, P. Faliro, Tel: 210.989.2100-20 Distomou 5-7, Maroussi, Tel: 210.619.8100 METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro, Tel: 210.480.9000 metropolitan-hospital.gr IASO Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi, Tel: 210.618.4000 MITERA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi, Tel: 210.686.9000
PUBLIC HOSPITALS ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula, Tel: 210.895.8301-4 EVANGELISMOS Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.720.1000 KAT HOSPITAL Nikis 2, Kifissia, Tel: 210.628.0000 Specialized trauma unit. TZANNEIO Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus, Tel: 210.451.9411-9 ENGLISH MEDIA NEWSPAPERS & MAGAZINES Athens Insider, the quarterly magazine for Greece in English The International New York Times carries the English version of Kathimerini RADIO Athens International Radio 104,4 Good Morning Athens at 10am, English programs at 11am, music programs on weekdays at 9pm, weekends at 1pm. Peiraios 100, Athens, Tel: 210.341.1610 SCHOOLS GREEK LANGUAGE The Athens Center 48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636 Tel: 210.701.5242 CELT Athens 77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Tel: 210.330.1455 Greek House Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.5186 Hellenic American Union 22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900 Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi, Tel: 210.612.2706 SITES Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 210.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries. Byzantine Churches. many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox
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church) on Filellinon Street. Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when visiting. Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works. Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589. Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that marked the boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues. Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am. Panathenian Stadium Kalimarmaro was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden. Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the birthplace of democracy. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory. Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries. Irodou Attikou Street. Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma (Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changing-of-theguard ceremony takes place every hour. Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian’s Arch. Mon-Sun 8am7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330. Theatre of Dionysus built in 500 BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed. Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight winds, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus. Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora. Tel: 210.324.5220.
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SLOVENIA Kifissias Av. 280 & Dimokratias 1, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.0090-091 SOUTH AFRICA Kifissias 60, Maroussi, Tel: 210.610.6645 SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Plaka, Tel: 210.921.3123 SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.726.6100 SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.723.0364-6 TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.5122 Representative office THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 & Kyprou, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.9065 TUNISIA Antheon 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.671.7590 TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Athens, Tel: 210.726.3000 UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel: 210.680.0230 UAE Kifissias Av. 290 & N. Paritsi 2, Tel: .210.677.0220 UK Ploutarchou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.727.2600 USA Vas. Sofias 91, Athens, Tel: 210.721.2951 URUGUAY Menandrou 1, Kifissia, Tel: 210.361.3549 VATICAN Mavili 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3598 VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.9169 VIETNAM Yakinthon 50,Psychico, Tel. 210.612.8733, 210.675.3080
Kaleidoscope
In the insane world we live in, the art of the visual commentary is needed more than ever. And so is humour. Dimitris Hantzopoulos, who has been chronicling the times we live in through his political cartoons in Kathimerini, looks back on the year that was: Political change in Greece, the era of the trans-Atlantic twins – BoJo and Trump, and of almost-but-not-quite-there Brexits. Limited signed copies (1/6 to 6/6), available at Zoumboulakis Galleries, zoumboulakis.gr.
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NGISED MANIFESTO
DESIGN FURNISHING LIGHTING 91 Alimou Str, Alimos 17456 T +30 2109969569 info@bagnofantasia.gr 137 Kifissias Str, Marousi 15124 T +30 210 6858200 Kifisias@bagnofantasia.gr
www.roomdesign.gr fb: room by bagno fantasia
ALPINE EAGLE With its pure and sophisticated lines, Alpine Eagle offers a contemporary reinterpretation of one of our iconic creations. Its 41 mm case houses an automatic, chronometer-certified movement, the Chopard 01.01-C. Forged in Lucent Steel A223, an exclusive ultra-resistant metal resulting from four years of research and development, this exceptional timepiece, proudly developed and handcrafted by our artisans, showcases the full range of watchmaking skills cultivated within our Manufacture.
CHOPARD BOUTIQUES Athens · Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel · Mykonos · Santorini For info: +30 (210) 32 50 555