Inside Touring

C OUPLE’S THERAPY

A Rocky Mountain Adventure

BY PATRICK LAMBIE

After more than three decades of travelling together, the one trip that has eluded my wife Heidi and I is a motorcycle trip. In fairness, the fact that Heidi has no desire to ride on a motorcycle is a limiting factor. While I have always been accepting of her reluctance towards motorcycles, the inability to share the experience of travelling the country free of the confines of a car is one that I have long hoped to correct.

With this goal resident in the back of my mind, a plan started to gradually formulate last year when Heidi willingly jumped on the back of a Can-Am Spyder RT Limited that I was testing for Inside Motorcycles. While she still was uneasy with this new-to-her proximity to the surrounding traffic, the perceived stability of three wheels vs. two gave her the confidence to join me for a ride.

Planning kicked into high gear with the introduction of CanAm’s limited edition Spyder RT Sea to Sky model earlier this year. In addition to a stunning green paint colour dedicated to the natural foliage found along Hwy 99 as it ascends to Whistler, BC, the Sea to Sky model features every possible option including custom luggage designed to fit the saddlebags and front trunk, as well as a top case that can easily accommodate two full-face helmets, making it the perfect vehicle for a couple to tour with.

Looking for a simple trip designed to appeal to Heidi, I took a page out of IM travel writer Bruce Thomas’ hub city playbook

The Rocky Mountains provide a spectacular backdrop for any adventure.

and proposed a three-day trip using Canmore, AB as a base for exploring the Rocky Mountains. With its proximity to multiple destinations including Icefields Parkway and Jasper, Lake Louise and its year-round gondola, Hwy 93 towards Radium, and the Smith Dorian highway into Kananaskis, there are day rides to meet every style and level of riding.

In addition to its great location, Canmore also has a large inventory of condo style hotels that cost the same as a hotel room in nearby Banff but offer full two- and three-bedroom units – complete with full kitchens – that are perfect for unwinding at after a day of riding. A call to Bellstar Resorts yielded a reservation at the Solara Resort and Spa, which in addition to being a short walk to all the downtown shops and restaurants, includes underground parking, perfect for keeping motorcycles protected from the weather and other unwanted elements.

With plans firmly in place, the wildcard called weather reared its head in the days leading up to our planned ride with forecasts calling for cool temperatures and rain – lots of rain – falling on each and every one of the three scheduled days of riding. Despite serious consideration of cancelling our trip, the limited track record for accuracy in the local weather forecasts provided the confidence to proceed as planned and on a Friday afternoon in mid-June we set off from our home in Calgary

Three wheels? Check. Gear? Check. Lots of luggage space? Check. Let’s ride! Wrapping up day 1 with drinks on our patio at Solara and a view of the Three Sisters mountains.

The Can-Am Spyder RT easily accommodated all our luggage and two full-face helmets.

under, of course, sunny skies.

Wanting to make sure that Heidi had an enjoyable time, blasting down the TransCanada highway didn’t seem like a viable option so we made our way to Cochrane, AB where we turned onto Hwy 1A. While the 80 km section of Hwy 1A from Cochrane to Canmore, known as the Bow Valley Trail, may not be as popular as the Bow Valley Parkway that runs from Banff to Lake Louise, it also offers the chance to travel along some of the most spectacular scenery on the planet.

For anyone who has travelled this stretch of road in the past, the good news is that the road surface, which previously was full of potholes to the point of being treacherous, has received some attention over the last few years and now offers a much smoother ride. If you are planning to ride this stretch of road, keep in mind that the section that goes through the Stoney Nakoda Reserve has no shoulders and it is not unheard of to come around a corner to find a horse standing in the middle of the road. So, take your time, ride safely and enjoy the scenery.

Whether it was the forecast of inclement weather or the time of day, we encountered minimal traffic, which provided the opportunity to ride a relaxed pace, stopping along the way for photo ops, including the mysterious dome at the Lafarge plant in Exshaw. Visible from the Trans-Canada Highway, the out-ofthis-world looking storage shed is even more imposing up close.

Checked in to the resort with the Spyder securely tucked away for the night, we took the scenic walk downtown in the shadow of the Three Sisters mountains for dinner at our favourite restaurant, Murrieta’s, which is a must for steak fans. One final check of the weather forecast before calling it a day suggested that our luck was going to run out with the arrival of rain early next morning. Adopting an it-is-what-it-is attitude, we went to sleep with plans for an early start to avoid the crowds that have become a mainstay at tourist destinations in the Rockies.

Following breakfast at the must-visit Rocky Mountain Bagel Co., we made our way west along the Trans-Canada Highway in the cool, but dry, conditions, thankful for the heated seats and grips that the Sea to Sky Spyder offers both rider and passenger. I had hoped to jump back onto the 1A at Banff and ride the Bow Valley Parkway, but the section between the Banff exit and Castle Mountain is now reserved solely for pedestrian and cycling traffic. Arriving at the Castle Mountain exit, we found ourselves sitting at the railway crossing waiting for a long freight train to pass. On previous bike tours, where the goal was always focused on beating traffic to the next set of twisties, this would have been an annoyance; however, having adopted this weekend’s relaxed mantra, I sat back and took in the surroundings which included a perfect view of Castle Mountain emerging behind the train. This is something I would have never noticed in my typical hurry-up style of riding – there is probably a lesson in there somewhere.

A casual cruise along the parkway brought us to Lake Louise and with hopes that the road to Moraine Lake was still open (park officials typically close the road when parking at the lake reaches capacity, leaving a shuttle bus as the only option for visiting this attraction), we headed up the mountain.

Once again, the inaccuracy of weather forecasters worked to our advantage as crowds were very light and we were able to ride the winding 11-kilometre road up to the lake. For those who are too young to remember, Moraine Lake and its surrounding

Moraine Lake always offers up once-in-a-lifetime photo ops. The second highest waterfall in Canada, Takakkaw Falls is located just across the Alberta/BC border.

ten mountain peaks graced the back of the Canadian twenty dollar bills issued in 1969 and 1979, and being able to take it in was a great way to start the day.

With Moraine Lake in the rearview mirror we set our sights once again on the Trans-Canada Highway, heading west to Takakkaw Falls, located in Yoho National Park just across the BC border. While the 13-kilometre ride along Yoho Valley Road and its three sets of tight switchbacks are not for the faint of heart, the sheer spectacle of the 373-metrehigh falls (second highest in Canada) is something that defies pictures and needs to be seen in person to be truly appreciated. As an added bonus, train enthusiasts will appreciate a pullout

The Bow Valley Parkway between Banff and Castle Mountain remains closed to vehicle traffic, offering pedestrians and cyclists a unique opportunity to experience the Rocky Mountains.

along the road that provides a great view of Cathedral Mountain and the upper tunnel of the Kicking Horse spiral train tunnels. A lunch stop in Lake Louise and another visit to the Bow Valley Parkway wrapped up an excellent day of riding as we made our way back to Canmore in time to see the long predicted rain

Castle Mountain casts its imposing but welcoming shadow as we wait for the freight train to pass.

AND SHE SAID…

BY HEIDI LAMBIE

At 2,206 m, the Highwood Pass on Hwy 40 is Canada’s highest paved road. Gap Lake is one of the many photo stops available on Hwy 1A between Cochrane, AB and Canmore.

appear just as we arrived back at the Solara Resort. As we reflected back on our travels of the day over dinner, Heidi described the time on the Bow Valley Trail without the obstruction of a car windshield as “feeling like you are actually part of the experience.” Not bad for a first attempt at touring.

The following morning, with the Spyder all packed up and ready to go, we made a quick stop in town at JK Bakery to pick up some incredible sandwiches for a picnic lunch along the road home (another first for me) before heading east on the 1A under sunny skies. This time we diverted off at the junction of Hwy 1X, which would take us to the Trans-Canada and a quick three-kilometre ride to the junction of Hwy 40, allowing us to continue with our theme of avoiding major highways while also experiencing Canada’s highest paved road.

A stop at the summit for the obligatory photo stop, followed by a lunch stop by a river and even more of the incredible Rocky Mountain scenery, eventually led us into the towns of Longview and Black Diamond. Arriving in Black Diamond, Heidi directed to me a small German bakery that she had discovered on a previous visit where we purchased the most amazing desserts to wrap up a perfect weekend adventure. Funny thing is that I have ridden through Black Diamond countless times and never noticed this bakery. Even though I set out to introduce Heidi to a new way of travelling, I think I learned just as much and gained a new appreciation that taking the time to relax and enjoy your surroundings has the ability to take the amazing experience that is motorcycle touring to a whole new level. IM

When Patrick posed the question of doing a touring trip on the Spyder a few months ago, my stomach fell, and my first thought was “no way.” I like the protection of a seat belt and the steel of a car around me. Then I thought, “Patrick is willing to do some of my adventures; I need to reciprocate.” So, I stepped out of my comfort zone and said yes, and quietly prayed we might have to cancel.

My biggest concern about not being a rider is that I have no gear. Luckily Patrick’s collection of motorcycle gear is comparable to some shoe closets, so I had a diverse selection to choose from. With the required safety gear checked off, the next dilemma was how do you pack for riding and non-riding activities. I did not want to go out for dinner with the same clothes I wore riding – that would have been offensive. As I am an avid hiker, I realized this was not really a challenge. If I could carry my essentials on my back for a weekend backpack trip, I could pack them in the convenient rolling bag Patrick and I shared.

Riding in Calgary with all the cars around made me more nervous than on the highways we travelled. I eased into being a passenger rather quickly and only needed to hang onto the handle grips going over bridges and some sharp turns. My core muscles got the best workout that weekend. On Sunday, my Apple watch showed I burned 347 calories while doing 30 minutes of exercise, all while riding!

What I did not expect was the freedom I felt riding on the back of the Spyder. With no windshield acting as a barrier, I felt closer to nature; exactly how I feel when hiking. I was happy, though, that we were riding and not hiking when I saw the grizzly on the side of Hwy 40.

For all the non-riders who have partners who ride, I would recommend extending your wings and join your partner on a riding adventure that is, of course, within your comfort zone. I am thankful to Patrick for nudging me to try something he loves a great deal. I absolutely enjoyed the places we saw and how we got there.

Would I do this again? Not sure. You know the saying, ‘why ruin a good thing.’ I had a good experience that I will cherish for years to come. Thank you, Patrick! IM