Grace answers 25 questions about her, her work and studio life.
The Ultimate Guide to Second Hand Shopping Tips and tricks to score the best second hand finds.
Micro Trends
Delving into micro trends and how we can recreate them more sustainably.
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Sewing Stories with Emma Collins
Exclusive Interveiw with re-maker Emma Collins and tips on how to get creative yourself.
In Conversation with: Edison Earl, Founder of Salvage Collective
Ed gives us the low down on how they created Salvage Collective and what is coming next.
et’s rewind the clock to a pivotal moment that rocked the fashion world: the collapse of Rana Plaza in Bangladesh. A tragedy that claimed 1,132 lives and sparked a global revolution in the way we think about our clothes.
10 years on conditions in many supply chains have improved and fast fashion brands are becoming more transparent regarding their supply chain. There is much more to be done regarding the ethical side to fast fashion but unfortunately that’s not the only issue. From raw materials to disposal, fast fashion is leaving its mark on our beloved planet. While researchers are cooking up innovative materials, the sheer volume of clothing we churn through needs a serious makeover.
A pile of garment waste in the Atacama Desert of northern Chile can be seen via satellite from space, and globally, it is estimated that there is 92 million tones of textile waste a year. Trends blink in and out faster than fairy lights, especially with
budget giants like Shein tempting us with pocketfriendly picks. Sustainable fashion is a term we have been hearing for a while now and some brands have cashing in on this appealing selling point, launching ‘sustainable’ ranges and ‘eco conscious’ collections. Whilst some brands have authentically made an effort to change others have been greenwashing. Recently the EU have introduced new rules aiming to protect consumers from falling victim to the use of phrases such as ‘sustainable’, ‘natural’ and ‘recycled’. These rules are not yet law but hopefully igniting the flame for brands to take responsibility of the impact of their clothes and business models.
Now, before you drown in the overwhelm, here’s the good news: you can make a difference! Wondering how? By making a conscious shift in your choices, big or small. There’s a power in numbers, and if we, the consumers, change our tune, the industry follows suit.
So, where to start? Let’s talk wardrobe rehab. One simple move is embracing the
A Decade Of Change
Your Role In The Revolution
second-hand life. Platforms like Vinted, eBay, and Depop are treasure troves waiting to be explored. Your next party dress? Check them out first! Charity shops are also great outlets for not only second hand but high quality or vintage items. Not only is it a feel-good choice, but it’s also a walletfriendly one. Head to page 24 for the ultimate guide to shopping second hand. Supporting sustainable brands is another ace up your sleeve. Flip to page 20, where I’ve curated a list of budget-friendly brands that are doing it right. And here’s the golden rule: if a high street spree beckons you now and then, no judgment! Just pause and ponder –how often will you flaunt that new find? Do you really need it? Could you snag it second-hand? Feeling extra creative? Head to page 12, 30 and 36 to get inspiration from the best on how to rework and upcycle your own garments.
In this fashion-forward revolution, your choices matter. So, let’s be the change we want to see in our closets and beyond.
Photographer: Molly Kitching
Model: Grace Emmerson
Creative Direction: Elan Chidlow & Sophie Gatward
ey Grace, good to see you, do you have time for a couple Questions?
Yeah, of course!
Such a cool place, Is this your space?
Yes this is my little section.
How long have you been working here?
About eight months I’d say.
How would you describe yourself to someone who’s never met you?
I’d have to go with fun, creative and slightly annoying.
What would you say a typical day of work looks like for you?
Usually get up and come in straight away and stay around until about 8pm, but what I make is different everyday, I get to just come in and decide.
What three words would you use to describe your work?
I’d say innovative, stylish and it’s got to be sustainable.
You have such a cool and unique style what would you say isyour favourite piece?
Oooo, you know what, it’s gunna have to be the jeans that I’m wearing.
Which do you rather wear, trousers or jeans?
Jeans.
Dress or skirt? Neither.
What is a trend you used to love but now hate?
I used to wear loads of shell tracksuit bottoms back in the day, never jeans. I don’t know how I did that, it;s jeans everyday for me!
What an accessory you could never leave the house without?
Earrings, of course!
I love what your wearing today, what’s your first step to picking an outfit?
I usually work from the bottom up, so I’ll look at my jeans rail, decide my jeans then build the rest of the outfit around that.
Who is you favourite designer? Donatella Versace, it would have to be.
While your working what do you like to listen to the most?
Well I used to listen to a lot or rap but recently I’ve really being enjoying a bit of House music, prefer the vibe of that.
Do you have a guilty pleasure song?
A little bit of Olivia Rodrigo every now and again.
Who’s your favourite artist?
I really like Adrienne Salinger’s, In My Room, it reminds me of this whole studio space, everyone has their own style.
What’s your favourite thing about being in Bournemouth?
I’d have to say the fashion community, I’ve really gelled well with everyone here.
Where do you look to find new inspiration?
I always just look at people around me, little things they do, how they style accessories. I wouldn’t say I have a singular person I look too, I find little bits in everyone.
When did you first start sewing?
Only about six months ago!
Who taught you to sew?
Everyone around me in the studio actually.
What was the first garment you ever made?
It would actually be my Tie Tops, I’m actually making a new one at the moment too.
What would you say is your favourite piece you worked on?
It’s got to be my Carhartt Re-worked bag, I made this out of old jeans.
How long did this take?
A few months actually, I was just starting to learn and get to grips with things so it allowed me to learn loads of different techniques.
How did you meet the people you work with?
I got a job at a Vintage shop just down the road and this studio space used to be above there. So I was working behind the till and wondering why does everyone keep going upstairs what’s going on up there? So one day I asked, they said to come and have a look and it flourished from there.
Where is your favourite place to work?
Definitely in this studio
What are you most looking forward to in the future? We’ve got a couple trips lined up with the studio, were going to go to Italy and source some vintage so I’m excited to see what I make with what I find.
Oh Seven Days - Phoebe Dress
£134.92
This dress is perfect for both day and night looks, dress down with a jumper during the day and an oversized jacket during the evening. This dress can see you all year round with the help of some layering
Asket - The Mock Neck
Sweater
£105.00
Made of 100% recycled pre-consumer wool this garment is a staple Autumn through to spring. Pair with anything from jeans to a dress for an effortless but well puttogeather look. Asket offer free repairs to your garment if brought into store or oder spare parts to mend at home if anything was to happen!
Oh Seven Days - Lucy Dress
This dress made from 100% cotten is the perfect transitional spring/ summer piece. Layer with a loose kint on colder days or enjoy with light accessories during
Théla - Loria Tote
Théla creates bags which are handmade in India from discarded plastic bags. They stock many different styles and are perfect for everyday use or a spring picnic!
Quazi Design - Triangle Pulp
These gorgeous handmade earrings are an easy to wear statement piece made of innovative materials and add some colour
LA Relaxed - Washed Fleece
Pant
£81.00
These wide leg joggers are perfect to be dressed up or down with maximum comfort. Perfect with a lighter top transitioning into spring.
Yes Friends - Classic Organic Tank Top
£12.00
This basic is perfect all year round, wear independently in summertime and layer it up with a jumper for the colder months. We really like the charcoal blue colour to help add some colour to your basics whilst still being super wearable.
Image from @y.a.t.r.i on Instagram
Made in a Fair Trade and solar powered factory. Of course.
Cultivating Vintage Chic: A Masterclass in Vintage Shopping Strategies
Cultivating Vintage Chic: A Masterclass in Vintage Shopping Strategies
Written by Elan Chidlow and Ragnheiður Helga Blöndal
n the world of fashion, vintage, second-hand shopping, or thrifting— whatever you prefer to call it—is an art form. It’s a journey filled with surprises, and as any seasoned thriftier will tell you, having a strategy is key. This article delves into the expertise of a professional vintage sourcer, offering valuable insights into mastering the art of finding hidden treasures.
While some areas boast an abundance of vintage stores, many lack such luxuries. That’s where charity shops come in, serving as havens for those seeking unique finds. And if brick-and-mortar stores disappoint, online platforms like Vinted, Depop, or eBay offer endless possibilities. It’s wise to begin with a few key pieces in mind, such as denim, shirts, blazers, jackets, or trousers— staples often found at charity shops, where quality items can be found at a much more affordable price. If specific items elude you, focus on preferred materials like cotton, linen, leather, or denim, known for their durability. Having a clear idea of what you’re searching for can alleviate the overwhelm of navigating through crowded charity
shop aisles.
Quality reigns supreme when it comes to thrifted treasures. Take heed of fabric choices—natural materials such as cotton, linen, denim, or leather boast longevity. Pay attention to construction, examining seams and craftsmanship, which offer insight into an item’s durability. Brand recognition can also signal quality; even if the material isn’t natural, trusted or high-quality brands often warrant consideration, steering clear of fast fashion pitfalls.
Before embarking on a charity shop excursion, it’s beneficial to assess your existing wardrobe. Determine preferred cuts, fits, shapes, colours, and sleeve styles to streamline your search. Armed with this knowledge, you can narrow down your quest, sparing yourself the exhaustive perusal of every clothing rack. And remember: don’t overlook the men’s section, where hidden treasures like jeans, suit trousers, oversized shirts, and jackets await discovery.
Consistency is key in the realm of charity shops. While time may be a luxury, frequent visits allow you to discern each shop’s unique
offerings. Allocating a mere half-hour before your weekly food run can elevate both your pantry and your wardrobe, transforming mundane errands into style-savvy excursions.
For online thrifting endeavours, similar principles apply. Utilize filters on platforms like Vinted to refine your search by material, brand, or item. However, the challenge lies in finding the perfect fit. Take your own measurements and request exact garment measurements from sellers to ensure a proper fit. And remember, the garment you purchase doesn’t have to remain as is—small alterations, especially with natural materials like denim, can breathe new life into your finds, ensuring their longevity. Seek inspiration from artisans like Emma Collins, whose Instagram account, @steelandstich, showcases transformative DIY projects, also featured in Stripped Back.
In the pursuit of thrifted treasures, armed with these insights, you’ll navigate the world of vintage shopping with finesse, transforming each excursion into a treasure hunt filled with endless possibilities.
Lets Talk ... Micro Trends
n the ever-evolving landscape of fashion, the digital age has ushered in an era where trends come and go with the swipe of a screen. From the latest TikTok videos to Instagram feeds, we’re bombarded with constant updates on what’s hot and what’s not. It’s a fast-paced world where yesterday’s must-haves can swiftly become today’s faux pas. Yet, amidst this whirlwind of change, there’s a glimmer of excitement in the form of micro trends.
Micro trends, those fleeting fashion moments, offer a playground for creativity and self-expression. They invite us to explore new styles and personas with each passing trend, providing an opportunity to reinvent ourselves with every outfit. Unlike the fashion of yesteryears, where style was often a reflection of cultural identity and personal experiences, today’s trends draw inspiration from a melting pot of influences. Streetwear meets preppy, vintage meets contemporary— the possibilities are endless, and the boundaries of style are continually expanding.
With this unprecedented access to global trends comes a heightened sense of consumerism. We’re constantly bombarded with advertisements and promotions, enticing us to keep up with the latest fads and try something new. In the age of fast fashion, brands capitalize on micro trends, churning out mass-produced garments at lightning speed to meet consumer demand. The allure of affordability
often overshadows considerations of quality and longevity, leaving us with closets brimming with disposable garments destined for landfills. Indeed, fast fashion disrupts the natural cycle of clothing, hindering our ability to invest in statement pieces that endure through the ebb and flow of trends. While vintage treasures once stood the test of time, today’s fast fashion finds barely last a season, let alone a lifetime. It’s a cycle that perpetuates dissatisfaction and contributes to environmental degradation.
With trends coming and going so fast it’s hard to find your true authentic style and therefore buy into a trend that you’ll never wear again. We can embrace micro trends in a way that honours both our planet and our wallets. Try repurposing and upcycling to update your wardrobe to the newest trend. Did you buy into the new bow trend or did you repurpose some old ribbon and tie it to your hair, sleeves or bag straps to embrace the Coquette style. Loving ballet core at the minute? Find online tutorial of how to re-purpose your tights into a shrug! Raid your partner’s wardrobe for unexpected treasures, such as using boxers as layering, cut up an old sweater or long socks to repurpose into leg warmers.
By embracing sustainable practices, we not only reduce our environmental footprint but also cultivate a deeper connection to the clothes we wear. Get creative to try out new styles and buy investment pieces once you know it’s something you love to wear.
Emma FriedlanderCollins
Images From: Emma Friedlander- Collins
Sewing Stories: Emma Collins’ Mission to Reshape Fashion.
n the ever evolving world of social media influencers, Emma Friedlander-Collins, known for her crochet designs, has successfully created a platform that goes beyond just fashion and stands out as a pioneer in the realm of sustainability and creativity. Her journey, which began a decade ago with the creation of Steal and Stitch, has evolved from a simple crochet account to a platform dedicated to reshaping perspectives on fashion and environmental responsibility.
“I started it ten years ago as a crochet account,” Emma reminisces. “But after hitting about 20,000 followers, I felt an obligation to use my platform for good.”
With a keen eye for sustainability and a desire to inspire positive change, Emma embarked on a mission to
merge fashion with environmental consciousness. Long before sustainability became a buzzword, she sought to engage her audience in meaningful conversations about upcycling and reducing fashion waste.
Her approach was gentle yet impactful. Through innovative techniques like incorporating crochet into existing garments and promoting zero-waste upcycling, Emma demonstrated that sustainable fashion could be both accessible and creative.
“I wanted to talk about sustainability without making people run away,” she explains. “80 percent of everything that goes to charity shops goes to landfill. It’s better you bring those garments home and you cut them up and you make a mess out of it, but you learnt how NOT to do something, than
for it to just go straight into the bin.”
Emma wants to encourage anyone to remake, no matter your skill level and realises that making a mess of things is part of that process and people shouldn’t fear it.
Emma’s endeavours didn’t go unnoticed. With each project and post, her following grew, leading to the publication of several books, including ‘Crochet Dressup’ and ‘35 Crochet Bags’. These milestones culminated in her current endeavour—a Ph.D. exploring the real-world impact of collaborative remaking through Instagram and its role in fostering both wellbeing and addressing the climate crisis.
“Instagram has a massive real-world impact,” Emma emphasizes. “It’s about showing up and using your spaces positively.”
One of her recent initiatives, the “Remake Together” series on Instagram, invites followers to join her in weekly craft sessions where she shares techniques for transforming old clothing into new treasures. From simple hand-sewing to more elaborate collage work, Emma’s tutorials empower beginners to explore their creativity and share their creations using the #remakingtogether .
“For beginners, it’s all about having a go and not being afraid to fail,” she advises. “What’s the worst that can happen?”
Emma’s approach to crafting is refreshingly straightforward. Armed with just a needle, thread, and fabric scissors, she demonstrates that anyone can breathe new life into old garments with a little creativity and patience.
As for her favourite project? Emma finds it impossible to choose. Each creation holds a special place in her heart, a testament to the love and effort poured into every stitch.
“I can’t get rid of them,” she laughs. “I love them all.
Looking ahead, Emma remains committed to her mission of promoting sustainability and empowering others to embrace their creativity. With her infectious enthusiasm and unwavering dedication, she continues to inspire a new generation of fashion enthusiasts to reimagine their wardrobes and embrace the beauty of sustainable style.
For those eager to embark on their own creative journey, Emma’s message is clear: Dive in, experiment, and let your imagination soar. After all, the possibilities are endless when fashion meets sustainability. Follow @steelandstitch on Instagram for endless inspiration or pick up one of her books online or at any good bookstore!
Salvage Collective
Charity Shop Secrets: Salvage Collectives Upcycling Movement
alvage Collective is a creative non-profit organisation which promotes a circular alternative to fast fashion and uncovers the truth about charity shop donations. Salvage run creative re-workshops where disregarded garments are transformed and given new life.
Salvage Collective came about as a result of Ed’s final major project for their degree. Ed admits, initially the project was created just in order to get a good grade. As they delved deeper into sustainability and uncovered the horrifying truths they knew the project needed to be much more, and that’s what created the Salvage Collective we know today.
Through working part time in a charity shop, alongside completing their degree, Ed discovered a large number of donated garments never make it onto the charity shop floor. This
could be because of small marks or imperfections on a garment however, much to Ed’s dismay they found this included major brands such as Ralph Lauren jumpers and Levis jeans. Ed decided they needed to find a way to elevate these garments and spread awareness for what was really happening.
Salvage Collective has been recognised by many in the creative industry such as the Vivian Westwood Foundation and the Graduate Fashion Foundation and won numerous awards including the AUB innovation, Director of Schools and Sustainability awards. What started as a small project became part of a huge movement however, with so much success comes responsibility and pressure.
A struggle of Ed’s during their journey was navigating the creative field alone and
overcoming self doubt to believe in themselves and their project. It’s hard to believe that Ed had self doubt about a project recognised by Mary Portas herself!
Regarding the future of Salvage Collective Ed commented, “I need to do something, I feel like it’s not complete. With my new job I don’t have a lot of time left to invest in Salvage and I’d definitely need to build a bigger team, but I know it’s not the end so watch this space!”
At a Salvage Collective workshop I attended I transformed a white t-shirt into my own David Bowie merch using lino printing. It was such a fun creative process and would also make a lovely hand made gift. They also do embroidery and vinyl printing, allowing you to customize second hand garments, the perfect conscious, sentimental gift for any occasion.
Made in a Fair Trade and solar powered factory. Of course.
