FINDZ Magazine – Molli Childs, BA (Hons) Fashion Communication

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FINDZ magazine

OUR THRIFITNG MISSION

FINDZ is a magazine dedicated to education about sustainability within the fashion industry and the importance of shopping second-hand. With the fashion industry being responsible for 8-10% of global emissions worldwide, we are making it our mission to change the way people shop. Our thrifting journey begins with changing the way people percieve pre-loved clothes, and highlighting the key areas and tips to getting the best vintage clothes, to encourage people to start thrifting their fits. We hope to aid you in your thrifting journey and path to a more sustainable future.

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Trends, also known as the ‘Zeitgeist’, or spirit of the times, have been forever present within the fashion industry since the 14th century, with the echelons of society using fashion to display their status and wealth (Alexander, 2017). This principal of using fashion to show status has continued to influence fashion trends throughout history, from designers using catwalks and fashion magazines to influence fashion icons to them influencing the trends of the time such as the corset, miniskirts, and bellbottom jeans (Suriarachchi, 2021).

The ability to keep up with fashion trends and society forces us into consumerism no matter our financial status. Writer and Styl ist Aja Barber describes her experience with consumerism; ‘It fills the gaps that our soci ety makes us feel we have in ourselves and our lives. The void that never fitting in left in me. Perhaps this could be plugged by buying myself a place in the world and concealing these insecurities in piles of clothing?’ (Bar ber, 2021). Today, catwalks, magazines and celebrities are being traded for social media and influencers, leading to microtrends and fast fashion as a result. The term ‘fast fashion’ was first coined in the 1990’s by the New York Times to describe Zara’s ability for a garment to go from design to sale in just 15 days (Maiti, 2024). Accessibility to social media and apps such as Pinterest and Instagram have allowed people easy access to trends and fashion inspiration, with the ability for trends to go viral and for hype to build. This constant evolution of trends means that many people resort to fast fash ion brands to keep up with the latest fashion. Research suggests that British shoppers buy more clothes than any other in Europe, with the average Briton having 57 unworn items in their closet (BBC, 2022). Statistics suggest that between 80 to 150 billion garments are produced every year and nearly three-fifths of all clothing produced ends up in inciner ators or landfills within years of being made (Wicker, 2020).

Fast fashion brand’s ability to reproduce clothes via mass production means that clothes are being made cheaply with poor quality, designed to last until the next microtrend and be thrown away. Due to fast fashion brands like SHEIN and TikTok ‘hauls’, microtrends can be seen to last only a few months, meaning we are wearing our clothes less leading to excessive waste and overconsumption.

The effect that the fashion industry has on the environment and climate change is considerable, and ways to make the industry more sustainable should be seriously considered. The fashion industry is responsible for 8-10% of global emissions, contributing considerably towards climate change (BBC, 2022). The effects that the fashion industry has on the environment stems all the way from materials to production to shipping. The fashion industry is the second largest consumer of water worldwide, 93 billion tons a year. Cotton crops use up a huge amount of water, for example, it takes 10,000 letres of water to grow the cotton to produce a pair of jeans, and 1,200 bottles of water to make a pair of socks (BBC, 2022). In Uzbekistan, cotton farming used up so much water from the Aral Sea that it dried up after about 50 years. The fashion industry doesn’t just use water, it pollutes it too, responsible for 20% of all industrial water pollution worldwide. Textile dyeing is the world’s second-largest polluter of water, since the water leftover from the dyeing process is often dumped into ditches, streams, or rivers. The dyeing process uses enough water to fill 2 million Olympic-sized swimming pools each year. The fashion industry effects the ocean and the animals within it.

Washing clothes releases 500,000 tons of microfibers into the ocean each year, which never biodegrades (McFall-Johnsen, 2020). A 2017 report from the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) estimated that 35% of all microplastics in the ocean came from the laundering of synthetic textiles like polyester (McFall-Johnsen, 2020). Ways in which we can make the fashion industry more sustainable is crucial for the future of this planet. Sustainability should be considered and pushed by all areas of the industry, from consumers to brands, retailers, and suppliers. The ongoing cost of living crisis however is shifting priorities away from sustainability due to financial situation and the say-do gap is becoming bigger (Muston and Hall, 2024). Despite this, sustainable innovation within the industry is driving the way to making fashion more environmentally friendly. Coalitions are developing within the industry, such as mass-market footwear companies working together on circular solutions. The consumer is also becoming more educated, with the European Union tightening down on greenwashing, allowing for more transparency to consumers. Quality and durability for consumers are also becoming more important which is helping to eliminate fast fashion alternatives (Muston and Hall, 2024).

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Shopping second hand offers a sustainable and affordable alternative to fast fashion. The global second-hand market is expected to surge at three times the rate of the overall global apparel market up to 2027 says second hand online platform Thredup (Benissan, 2023). Shopping second-hand not only allows clothes to be re-worn and re-loved but it also prevents clothing from going to waste and landfill, lessening the industries effect on the environment. Charity shopping has become an increasingly popular way to shop for all ages, including Gen Z. According to the Charity Retail Association, charity shops have seen an 12.4% increase in transactions per day (Charity Retail Association, 2023). Misconceptions about charity shops are often viewed as having an outdated and limited style, despite the shops carrying high-quality items ranging from vintage to Y2k to recent trending items. Following the cost-of-living crisis, people look to charity shops for apparel compared to other high street retailers, for a fraction

Charity shop volunteer Susan Flaherty says “Don’t underestimate [second-hand shopping] it’s come a long way, the quality and the price are there. And when you consider you’re helping a charity along with the sustainability factor, it’s a win-win” (Varley, 2023). Charity shopping has become increasingly popular with Gen Z consumers, with #Thrifting and #charityshophaul trending on TikTok, the appeal of unique vintage pieces you can find at the charity shops are becoming increasingly popular. The ability to build a capsule wardrobe using high-quality items from charity shops for a fraction of the price also increases its appeal. Unique, one-of-a-kind, and rare items can be found when rummaging through the racks of the charity shops, allowing people to build on their own style and stand out. Tips for finding the best items in the charity shops include going earlier in the week, due to an increased likelihood of people clearing out their wardrobes over the weekend, vintage looking oversized labels are also a key sign of an authentic vintage piece, as well as shopping in more affluent areas to increase the likelihood of higher-quality items being donated (Hall-Davis, 2023).

TREND

With never ending micro trends and influencers, people can be pressured into keeping up with the latest trends and abandon their own personal sense of style. The trend of rediscovering personal style and experimentation, breaking free from the trend cycles and wear what makes you look confident has emerged. Jalil Johnson, fashion office coordinator describes personal style, “I would say embrace the discomfort of experimentation, for discovering your personal style is a game of trial and error, and not an overnight victory. Furthermore, if you’re truly dedicated to refining your style and discovering your true essence, stay receptive to inspiration at every turn” (Jackson, 2024).

Shopping second hand can allow people to explore new styles and create their own unique looks. Johnson describes where he finds inspirations for his personal style, “I am a big vintage shopper, so I usually frequent the same vintage spots, or scour auction/resale sites for finds” (Jackson, 2024). The new trend of self-stylists and maximalists are taking a mix of vintage and new, and making their outfits express their personal style. Influential fashion influencers such as Bella Hadid mix designer with vintage and archival pieces, offering a unique style and taking risks.

According to trend forecasting website WGSN, upscaling jewellery to achieve a maximalist look, as well as repurposing fabric scraps and offcut to create details including bows, corsages, frills and #mixmaterial pieces can make outfits more unique (WGSN, 2023) (WGSN, 2024).

Shopping preloved offers the ability to repurpose vintage items, accessorise and delve into new styles. Coachella, an influential music festival for fashion saw Y2K vintage accents, including statement belts, shoulder bags, lace, vintage football jerseys, #NuBoheme and maxi skirts (WGSN, 2024)

Shopping second-hand means that you can have quality vintage items which are one-ofa-kind, unique, and a sustainable alternative to fast fashion copies.

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Car boot sales also offer an opportunity to shop more sustainably and increase the lifecycle of clothing. Not only is it a great place to find quality vintage pieces, but it is also often the cheapest place to find vintage, with the majority of items being 50p to £1, it’s a place to revamp your wardrobe for a fraction of the cost. Selfridges hosted its own Women for Women International x Alex Eagle #SheInspiresMe Car Boot Sale in 2019 at the Selfridges Car Park. This formed as part of their Project Erath commitment to change the way we shop, powered by their resale platform RESELFRIDGES.

The car boot sale offered fashion lovers a chance to shop pre-loved designer fashion donated by the likes of Alexander McQueen, Anya Hindmarch, Elizabeth Saltzman, Jenny Packham (Selfridges, 2022). #carboot on TikTok is trending with many people giving hauls of their vintage and designer finds. Many resellers also use car boot sales to source stock for their sites, usually increasing the price of their items considerably. Shopping from car boot sales directly compared to second-hand selling sites can not only save you money but is also more sustainable as it reduces shipping and CO2 emissions as a result. Tips for finding car boot sales include looking on local Facebook groups for car boots or jumble sales near you, alternatively look out for flyers and posters about car boot sales in your area. Attending the car boot as early as 6:30am will ensure that you can get there before the other buyers to have the best chances of finding a bargain. Rummaging through piles of clothes and rails to find the best vintage pieces is essential as most people often clear out their whole wardrobes and vintage pieces may be hiding amongst the pile of newer items. Make sure to bring plenty of cash and your own bag too.

Archival fashion

WGSN describes “grail hunting” as a more educated consumer with an appreciation for specific items (and ruthlessly discerning taste) (Trunzo, 2018). Car boot sales and charity shops can be a way to find rare and expensive items. This has created its own category of grail hunters who search for these high-resale valued items. Trends on TikTok show people going to charity shops and car boot sales, spending £5 or £10 and reselling the clothes, turning a huge profit. Designer brands being sold for cheap can be found at places like these, such as Nike, Adidas, Dolce & Gabbana, Stussy and many more. Vintage 90s items such as rare Nike shoes and hoodies can also be found for cheap, as people often aren’t aware of the resale value. Knowing how to authenticate designer items and knowing what brands or designs to look out for could lead to huge profits. As well as making a profit, these grail hunters are often drawn to the dopamine rush that they get from finding a hidden gem.

Louise Childs, owner of Footballmcfootface on Vinted searches for second-hand football items which she sells for a profit, “Being a football fan myself, I know that each team’s football shirt/ kit design is unique to the season. I noticed that if someone wore an old shirt from 10 years ago, they would get lots of attention as it sparks nostalgia from past games for themselves and other supporters who see the shirt. With the average shirt being around £65 plus, I noticed lots of older shirts being sold at car boot sales. This gave me the idea to start buying and selling football kits from past years. On average at a car boot sale, I buy them for between 50p and £3 and they can resale between £15 to £30, depending on how vintage the piece is. This has allowed me to make a profit which goes towards holidays every year. My husband owns an original rare boldly patterned football shirt from the 80s which is now worth in excess of £300, and the football club has remade the design this year as part of their retro range, increasing the price of the original shirt. When buying vintage, it’s important to look out for stains, pulls in material, names written inside, peeling logos and fake remakes”.

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The resale market of pre-loved fashion has boomed in recent years with many people posting their clothes on online selling sites such as Depop, Vinted and Thredup. These third-party marketplaces make up 25-30 percent market share, driving much of the sectors growth (Webb, 2022). Business Of Fashion reports that the global second hand clothing market is currently worth $130 billion (Lee and Malik, 2021).

Buying from these sites and selling your old pre-loved clothes helps to reduce waste going to landfill and increases the lifecycle of clothes. Pre-loved clothes can therefore last for many more years and increase the amount of times the clothes are worn, compared to old clothes sitting at the back of wardrobes or chucked in the bin. Justine Porterie, Depop’s global head of sustainability says “People still want the feeling of new, we’re not going to tell you to stop buying. We’re going to ask you to buy within planetary boundaries.” (Dockterman, 2021). These sites can be the perfect way to find vintage gems to add to your wardrobe, ranging from new to vintage, you are guaranteed to find something unique. These sites can also make a profit, with many small businesses on Depop, it can support people financially. Molli Childs, owner of VintageHut on Vinted describes her experience of owning a second-hand clothing site. “Thrifting as a hobby started out a few years ago. I would search Facebook to find car boot sales, jumble sales and charity shops near me to hunt for bargains to make my wardrobe more interesting. I think it became a sort of obsession, the adrenaline of finding an amazing vintage piece hidden amongst the rails made it all worth it. I turned to starting my second-hand selling site VintageHut when items I bought didn’t fit or suit me.”

“ The items I sold on these sites funded my thrifting addiction, I was making a profit doing the thing I loved, while building up my wardrobe. I built up my site from there, spotting vintage clothes that I thought others might like whilst I shopped for clothes that I also loved.” Since starting her small business, VintageHut has grown to 517 followers with nearly 200 sales. Brands are seeing the appeal of the resale market in recent years and have started to own their customer journey and their resale offerings internally. This includes brands such as Lululemon’s resale site ‘Like New’ and Patagonia’s ‘Worn Wear’. This allows brands to keep customer experience monitored and for product narrative to prove longevity.

Vintage fashion and y2k/ 90s style has been trending again in recent years. With the rise of social media and endless micro trends lasting only a matter of months, y2k style inspirations have managed to stick around. The y2k style of cargo trousers, low waisted jeans and graphic tank tops have made an impact on Gen Z style.

Many believe that this rise in popularity in y2k style is due to the nostalgia of the 2000s and style inspirations of childhood celebrities. With the world being on lockdown and an increasing uncertainty about the future, many people looked to comfort TV shows and styles of the past to regain a sense of reassurance and familiarity. Y2k and 90s style inspirations were seen as an escape for many, transporting the wearer back to the simpler times of childhood (DeLong, 2022). According to WGSN, endless access to nostalgic fashion imagery on social media has pushed up the value in these throwback items over the years. Demand has soared as consumers hunt for rare, authentic relics, and emerging labels tap into this energy to create inspired contemporary designs (Trunzo, 2018). This fascination for vintage fashion has also led to many designers

The nostalgia from a brands ‘glory days’ or past collections makes archival fashion even more important to preserve. “The value of an archival item based on its design or historical significance moves beyond the reductive take that ‘this came from another dudes closet’” says Lawrence Schlossman, brand director at Grailed (Trunzo, 2018). These archival, throwback looks have allowed for inspiration on new releases, as well as demand to bring back archival designs that people miss and loved. New Balance for example re-released their classic vintage design, the 550’s, as well as Adidas releasing their Gazelles and Sambas which made a huge return and has become reinstated again as a classic in the footwear market.

FINDZ FINDZ of the month

CHARITY SHOP
CHARITY SHOP
CHARITY SHOP
CAR BOOT SALE
“THRIFTING WAS NEVER MORE NECESSARY IN THE WORLD’S HISTORY THEN IT IS TODAY”
- Francis H. Sisson

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