10 minute read
CUISINE
Inspired to Celebrate Holiday Traditions BY GRANVILLE WOOD
S
till sated from your Thanksgiving feast? It’s not the time to take your foot off the gas. December is upon us and if the Farmer’s Almanac prophecies are remotely accurate, which I have no reason to doubt, we are in for a cold, snowy winter, which makes the toasty kitchen the place to be.
It wasn’t until I spent time in Stockholm that I really came face to face with Nordic culture. Scandinavia includes Norway, Sweden, Finland, Denmark and, in some circles, Iceland and the Orkney Islands located off the coast of Scotland. If you are wondering why islands off the Scottish coast is included, this archipelago of 70 islands were annexed by the Danish in 875 until 1468.
Early in my career, the momentum of cooking changed dramatically when a few French chefs went rogue, creating what would become known as the “Nouvelle Cuisine” movement. This new movement was a hard right turn from the heavy flour-laden sauces to light, fresh, bright flavors and complex textures. I was hooked. It suited my artistic side perfectly and being a Garde Mange chef (cold kitchen) at the time, it was a great fit. It smacked of the Japanese style of precision and contrasting flavors that was totally in step with the Scandinavian style, in particular the open-faced sandwich and smørrebrød.
I embraced this new style, incorporating the Norwegian techniques of curing meats and fish and the pickling of various vegetables that created a bright, colorful visual appearance. Nordic chefs have changed the face of modern fine dining, creating a global phenomenon. Driven by sourcing local ingredients, foraging and studying the history of their culture, chefs like Rene Redzepi of Noma in Copenhagen turned fine dining on its head and influenced a whole generation of upcoming chefs. The Franztén Group based
in Stockholm has established award-winning restaurants worldwide. Maaemo in Oslo, Norway, is a Michelin three- star restaurant that has brought back the experience of fine dining with locally sourced ingredients, superb service and elegant trappings.
Now, weave your way through the rugged valleys and mountains of central Norway to the medieval village of Numedal, home to Nevada Berg, the new voice of Norwegian cuisine. Author of the award-winning book, North Wild Kitchen, she captures the essence of Scandinavian cooking. It is a must-have for anyone who loves cooking and eating well. I had to ask Nevada, with all her knowledge, what would be on her Christmas Eve table.
Christmas Eve, or Julafton, is the night they open presents and eat a big Christmas meal with a healthy amount of Gløgg (mulled wine) and dark, spiced beer. Lamb and mutton play a big part in the Norwegian diet so Nevada and her family will be having Pinnekjøtt (cured lamb ribs) with mashed rutabaga and rice porridge. Making Pinnekjøtt is a severalstep process — salt-curing lamb racks, airdrying them, smoking (optional), cutting the racks into ribs, rinsing off the salt and, lastly, steaming them for the table. The dessert, rice porridge called riskrem, Nevada shared, is a Christmas Eve tradition where one almond is hidden in the porridge and whoever finds it gets a marzipan piggy candy.
The Nordic countries embrace Christmas traditions. St. Lucia’s Day on Dec. 13, the festival of light, starts the holiday celebrations right up to Christmas Eve. In schools, an appointed girl will dress in a white gown and wear a wreath with a lit candle wreath upon her head. She will then lead a procession of both boys and girls in St. Lucia’s honor through the school while the children hand out Lussekatter (saffron buns) to friends and loved ones.
There are so many wonderful things to bake and cook on these dark cold winter days. Scandinavians celebrate the holidays enthusiastically through New Year’s Eve. Sounds good to me. Spread a little Christmas cheer with these St. Lucia saffron buns, a favorite of Nevada Berg. Merry Christmas!
Nordic chef and author, Nevada Berg
ST. LUCIA SAFFRON BUNS (LUSSEKATTER)
Recipe courtesy of Nevada Berg You’ll want to eat these buns fresh. Use any stale leftovers (that is, if there are any) to make a delicious bread pudding. Makes about 14 buns.
INGREDIENTS: 2/3 cup (150g) butter 2 cups plus 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. (5dl) milk 2 ounces (50g) fresh yeast or 2/3 ounces (17g) active dry yeast ¼ teaspoon (0.5g) ground saffron or saffron threads, gently crushed ¾ cup (15g) granulated sugar 1 tsp. salt 2 large eggs 7½ cups (900g) allpurpose flour, plus more if needed Raisins, for decoration Egg, for egg wash METHOD: In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Whisk in the milk, yeast and saffron and remove from the heat. Add in the sugar and combine. Whisk in the 2 eggs and pour the mixture into a large bowl. Add in the flour and salt and mix to form a sticky dough. Turn it out onto a lightly floured surface and knead until smooth and elastic, about 5-10 minutes. Cover with a tea towel and let it rest for 45 minutes, or until doubled in size.
Divide the dough into 14 or so equal portions. Working with one piece of dough at a time, roll out into a strand, roll up one end into the middle, and roll the other end into the opposite side, forming an S-shape (see photos for inspiration). You can also shape them as desired. Place the buns on two large parchmentlined baking trays. Let the buns rest, covered with a tea towel, for another 15-20 minutes, until doubled. Preheat the oven to 400°F / 200°C. Decorate the buns with raisins. In a small bowl, whisk the egg for the egg wash and, using a soft-bristled brush, lightly brush the egg on top of the dough. Bake the buns, one tray at a time, for 10-12 minutes, until golden.
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Lucia Festival of Lights
Lucia was an Italian saint, born in about 284 A.D. in Sicily, known for her generosity in feeding the poor and homeless. Today, in commemoration, almost every town in Sweden chooses one girl to be that year’s Lucia girl to lead the town’s Lucia parade. The chosen girl wears a white full-length chemise with a red sash around her waist and a wreath of lingonberry sprigs on her head that holds real candles for a halo effect. She is joined by a group of Lucia attendants and “Star Boys”, who together form a choir that sings Christmas carols and the traditional Lucia Song. Individual families choose their own Lucia – usually the oldest daughter — whose duties are to sing and serve the family saffron buns and peppakakor, ginger cookies.
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What Is Saffron?
Commonly used in Indian, Moroccan and Iranian dishes, Saffron is a spice made from the stigmas of the fall-flowering plant Crocus sativus, a member of the iris family. It is believed that saffron originated and was first cultivated in Greece, but today the spice is primarily grown in Iran, Greece, Morocco, and India. Saffron is one of the most precious spices in the world. It has been cultivated for thousands of years to be used in medicines, perfumes, dyes, and as a wonderful flavoring for foods and beverages. Saffron imparts a somewhat earthy taste that’s been described as pungent or even fruity. As the world’s most expensive spice, saffron provides a beautiful golden color and pungent, aromatic flavor to foods. Often, recipes call for only a pinch of saffron, threads or powder, so not to worry…a little goes a long way. A powerful antioxidant, saffron is good for your heart, brain, blood, and immune system.
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