7 minute read
CUISINE
SUMMER,
Isn’t it Just Peachy?
BY GRANVILLE WOOD
E
very season has a scent, a distinctive aroma that causes an immediate sensual stimulus. Winter for me is the smell of a steaming mug of hot chocolate laced with peppermint schnapps, along with a roaring fire. Spring brings forth the musty wet aroma of the frozen ground letting go of the cold winter. Fall is an easy one. Burning leaves on the cool breeze drifting through the bare tree branches. And then there is summer.
Summer is sweet, clean and bright. The curtain has gone up and nature is proudly showing her wares. Freshly mowed grass, the burst of the first-cut watermelon, suntan lotion and the smell of the pool. For me it’s the sweet smell of a lush, treeripened peach as the juices flow down my chin on a hot summer’s day. A close second and slightly unusual one is the scent given off by tomato plants when you pick the fruit and brush against the leaves. Either way you slice them, these are my two summer favorites.
Peaches are more elusive in North Dakota than are apples, which thrive in the summer and can tolerate the bitter cold winter. Peaches will grow and love the heat, but the winter is not their friend. Early arrivals from the Carolinas and Texas come north in July, announcing that summer has arrived. They are slightly bruised but bearing the characteristic sweet aroma and juiciness I grew up with at the farm. The farm was in southern Ontario where the alluvial soil is rich and dark. I used to sit with my back against the tree I had just climbed to get the sweetest fruit at the top. The breeze is warm and silky against my tanned skin. Summer was switched on, with peaches at the farm stands doting the country back roads. Life was good.
Peach trees, it turns out, were the first invasive species to arrive on our shores from, of all places, China via Central America and the conquistadors. When I say invasive that is an understatement. From Florida to New Jersey, you could find peach trees growing wild everywhere and in between. Of the three hundred or so varieties, you are probably most familiar with the Elberta or Golden Glory.
— George du Maurier
"My all-time favorite baked peach dish is a thick, warm, piece of Kuchen with its crunchy, sticky crust and soft peachy filling topped with a generous dollop of clotted cream."
— Granville Wood The major types are the Clingstone and Freestone and, true to their names, it is how they interact with the pit or the stone. Clingstones hold on tight to the pit while Freestones comes away easier. A ripe peach should be heavy with juice, yellow at the stem and have that ethereal aroma and sensual texture.
Clingstones show up in stores from May until October. Soft, sweet and juicy, they are excellent for canning, preserving and for baking that iconic summer favorite, peach pie. Freestones are larger and stay on the shelves into late October and show up in cobblers and pies. Don’t cool that pie on your windowsill because someone I know just might knick it. Peaches are much more versatile in culinary circles than just baking. I like to split them, remove the pit and grill them cut side down over a hot fire, serving them next to grilled chicken or roast pork belly. The sweet, smoky juiciness breathes life into the innocuous chicken while cutting though the richness of the pork belly.
Another off-beat way to utilize ripe peaches is to peel them, pit them and finely dice them to use in a vinaigrette dressing. I like to add some zip to it with the addition of finely minced jalapeno pepper, chives or shallots and a squeeze of lime. Drizzle this over some grilled walleye or lake trout and sit back to enjoy a new dimension of flavor. My all-time favorite baked peach dish is a thick, warm piece of Kuchen with its crunchy, sticky crust and soft peachy filling topped with a generous dollop of clotted cream. Another simple pleasure is fuzzy, juicy slices served over homemade ice cream or, better yet, peach ice cream. Now to really knock your socks off, sauté thick wedges of peaches in some sweet butter and dust with sugar. Cook until the sugar is caramelized, then add a splash of bourbon and a touch of heavy cream. Ladle it over bowls of good vanilla ice cream with a drizzle of chocolate sauce.
Now that is really peachy.
Turbinado Sugar — What is it?
While refined white sugar can be derived from sugar cane or sugar beets, turbinado comes exclusively from the first pressing of sugar cane. The cane juice is boiled just once, unlike refined granulated sugar, which is boiled multiple times to rid all residual molasses and brown color. The boiling process causes the sugar to crystallize, and those crystals are then whirled in a centrifuge—or turbine, to spin off excess moisture. The result is turbinado sugar.
Turbinado grains are coarser than refined white sugar, which is why they make an ideal finishing sugar. Unlike regular refined sugar, turbinado— also known as raw sugar—won’t melt into the batter while baking, so you’ll be left with a crunchy, sparkly, gourmet-looking finish to your bake goods.
Training is everything. The peach was once a bitter almond, cauliflower is nothing but a cabbage with a college ”education.
— Mark Twain
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PEACH KUCHEN WITH VANILLA ICE CREAM
DOUGH INGREDIENTS:
½ cup unsalted butter, cut into pea-sized pieces and well chilled 2 cups all-purpose flour ¼ tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. kosher salt 2 Tbsp. sugar
METHOD:
Preheat oven to 400F.
In a food processor, pulse all ingredients until coarse and butter still is present. In an ungreased 8-inch straightsided tart pan with a false bottom, press mixture evenly across the bottom and the sides. Chill for 15 minutes. FILLING INGREDIENTS:
6 large peaches, peeled and sliced ¾ cup sugar I teaspoon cinnamon 2 large egg yolks 1 cup full-fat sour cream Turbinado sugar
METHOD:
Toss peach slices with and sugar and set aside. In another bowl, beat the egg yolks with the sour cream.
Arrange peach slices in the tart pan and bake for 15 minutes. Pour cream mixture over peaches, sprinkle with a generous amount of turbinado sugar and bake for 30 minutes.
Let cool slightly. Cut slices and top with a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream. NOTE: To quickly peel peaches, cut a small X in the top of the peach (opposite end from the stem). Plunge into slightly boiling water for a few moments, lift out and drop into an ice bath. The skins should slip off easily using a paper towel. Do not cook the peaches.
SOUTHWEST PEACH VINAIGRETTE
This is superb on grilled chicken, fish, or shrimp!
INGREDIENTS:
2 large ripe peaches, peeled and finely diced
1 Tbsp. minced shallot 1 Tbsp. minced jalapeno, seeds and ribs removed
1 cup vegetable oil ½ cup white wine vinegar Juice of half a lime (add more to taste) 1 tsp. pure maple syrup 2 Tbsp. cilantro leaves, finely minced Optional: 1 Tbsp. white tequila
METHOD:
Place all ingredients in a glass jar, cover and give it a good shake. VARIATIONS:
Go Italian: Replace lime juice with orange juice, cilantro with basil, red chili flakes for the jalapeno and add a splash of Prosecco.
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WHEN:
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WHO:
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WHERE:
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