TOP TO BOTTOM TURKEY

From cave churches to grand mosques and subterranean cities, Turkey’s sights above and below ground will leave you with plenty to write home about

WORDS BY CHARLENE FANG

A fascinating country that needs little introduction, Turkey’s charms are plentiful. From its rich history dating back to the third millennium, 19 UNESCO World Heritage Sites and endless natural wonders, to its diverse food culture and vast landscapes, there are so many reasons to plan a visit to Turkey.

Goreme Open Air Museum

An essential stop in Cappadocia, this UNESCO-listed heritage complex of ancient monasteries is a stellar example of rock-based architecture, with the oldest cave churches dating back to the 10th century. While a number of the frescoes have been compromised by the elements, the stunning Karanlik Kilise (the Dark Church) holds vivid frescoes – thanks to its lack of light – depicting Christ on the cross and the Betrayal of Judas.

Open-air museum, Love Valley, in Goreme National Park

Kaymakli Underground City

While in Cappadocia, it’s essential to visit one of the 36 underground cities. While the deepest one is Derinkuyu, the widest remains Kaymakli. It’s believed there is a 9kmlong tunnel connecting the two, which dates back to Hittites (an Anatolian people) circa 1200 BC, and was used by the locals up until the 13th century. With 600 doors, the city boasts cellars, churches, wineries, stables and even a school. It’s a fascinating look at life below ground and the complex infrastructure and architectural skills required to live in a subterranean city.

The ancient multi-level underground cave city of Kaymakli is an unmissable historical site

Basilica Cistern

Built in the sixth century during the reign of Justinian 1, this captivating Byzantine structure with 336 towering marble columns (look for the two that sport a Medusa head) is the largest cistern in Istanbul. Located close to the Hagia Sophia, its water filtration system was originally built to service the Great Palace and supply water to the Topkapi Palace from the Ottoman era until modern times. Said to store up to 80,000 m3 of water delivered by 20km of aqueducts from a reservoir near the Black Sea, today it only holds a few feet of water but its presence more than adequately illustrates an engineering marvel of ancient times.

Blue Mosque

A majestic example of Ottoman-era architecture, the Blue Mosque (also known as Sultanahmet Mosque), with its distinctive facade and six minarets is as memorable on the outside as it is inside. Built between 1609 and 1616 by the architect Mehmet Aga, it was constructed as a complement to the Hagia Sophia. Famous for its elaborate ceramic interiors with over 20,000 ceramic Iznik tiles depicting floral designs, along with hand-drawn paintings and calligraphy art of Quranic verses, it’s best visited in the evenings at least an hour before the call to prayer. As it's a working mosque, a modest dress code is required and non-worshippers enter by the north entrance (entry by donation).

Tourists often visit the Blue Mosque, or Sultanahmen Camii

Hagia Sophia

Few buildings will leave you as awestruck as the Hagia Sophia. With a rich history that dates back to AD 537, it has served as a Greek Orthodox cathedral, Ottoman imperial mosque and is now a museum. Considered by many as one of the most important Byzantine structures, its massive dome – under which many emperors have been crowned – was considered an engineering marvel when it was built. Today, it’s a pertinent symbol of inter-faith harmony and the walls of the main hall, sporting symbols of Christianity alongside rounded calligraphy panes containing the names of Allah, Muhammad and four caliphs, is a sight that should not be missed.

Pamukkale

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the ethereal beauty of Pamukkale (cotton castle in English) is impossible to put in words. A natural wonder that’s deserving of numerous selfies, the white travertine terraces that cascade down a slope closely resemble a snowfield and are best captured at dusk when the sun casts a particular glow off its gleaming white surface.

The clear, reflective blue Pamukkale Pools invite tourists and locals year round

Hadrian's Gate

This famous arch in Turkey’s capital is arguably Antalya’s most beautiful monument. As one of the main entrances to Kaleiçi (the city’s historic quarter), it was built in AD 130 to commemorate the visit of Emperor Hadrian and discovered by Irish-British hydrographer Rear-Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort in 1817. Designed to resemble a Roman triumphal arch, the tower is more than eight metres high and built entirely out of white marble, except for the granite columns. Visitors will notice the original walkway where deep grooves caused by the passing of carts through the city can be seen through perspex flooring.

The old city of Antalya features historical sights such as Hadrian's Gate

Aphrodisias

For history (and romance) buffs, a visit to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Aphrodisias is a must. An ancient Greek Hellenistic city named after Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, it’s located in the village of Geyre and claims the Temple of Aphrodite as its main highlight. Plan to spend a couple of hours exploring the numerous sites; aside from the temple, there’s a well-preserved stadium built to accommodate up to 30,000 people, an odeon from the Antonine or early Severan period, and many still-legible ancient inscriptions.

Kaleiçi

Like many other old towns, Kaleiçi (Old Antalya) exudes a unique charm with its historic houses, narrow streets and old harbour. An excursion that’s easily covered on foot, seek out the Tekeli Mehmet Paşa Cami, an 18th-century Ottoman mosque, the ruins of Kesik Minare Cami (also known as Broken Minaret Mosque), first built as a Roman temple in second century BC but later converted to a mosque with a minaret added in the 13th century, and the Suna Inan Kirac Kaleici Museum housed in a former Orthodox church. For non-history buffs, settle in the port side for a leisurely meal or take a stroll to Karaalioglu Park at sunset.

Views of Old town, Kaleiçi, in Antalya

Higher Ground

The city of Istanbul isn’t short on vantage points to admire its mesmerising beauty

Istanbul is a city that pulls you in with its eastmeets-west vibe, a skyline dotted with minarets and Byzantine church spires, where chic rooftop bars lie close to the golden dome of the Hagia Sophia. Everywhere you turn there’s something to see, something to admire and most definitely something to remember.

Galata Tower

The Galata Tower’s ninth-storey vantage point is unbeatable, seeing as it was built by the Genoese in 1348 and used as an observation tower to spot fires by the Ottomans. For a breathtaking view of Istanbul’s skyline go at sunset, but be prepared to stand in line as there’s often a queue of people waiting to enter.

Mikla Rooftop Bar

Istanbul has a number of restaurants and bars that boast a sky-high perch looking out to the shimmering Bosphorus, but Mikla Rooftop Bar has a distinct advantage: a chic outdoor terrace – heated in the winter months – with a wraparound view of the city. Consider the menu of modern, Turkish cuisine that’s earned it a no.44 spot on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list and this marks the spot for more than just sunset cocktails.

House Café Ortakoy

Few cafes will offer as sweet a setting as the House Café in Ortakoy. Patio seats look out directly on the Bosphorus Bridge and the sublime Ortakoy Mosque. Head here before or after a visit to the mosque, or make plans to drink in the view over a leisurely brunch.

Maiden’s Tower

Visit this famous Istanbul landmark by boat from Uskudar on the Asian (or Anatolian) side. In existence since the medieval Byzantine period, legend has it that a Sultan put his daughter in the tower to protect her from a prophecy that had predicted her death. These days, the tower pulls in visitors for being right on the famed Bosphorus, and if it looks a little familiar, it was featured in two James Bond films, The World is Not Enough and From Russia With Love.

Ciragan Palace Kempinski

The palatial surroundings of the Ciragan Palace Kempinski count as a must-see spot in Istanbul. Once known as the Kazancioglu Gardens, this historic 17th-century structure was home to seven sultans and continues to host A-list guests today. If the opportunity to stay there crops up, do so and be sure to have a dip in the heated pool that looks out across the Bosphorus and towards the Asian side of Istanbul. Otherwise, make a reservation at Tugra and enjoy a divine Turkish meal inspired by traditional Ottoman recipes.

Topkapi Palace

The numerous views from the sprawling Topkapi Palace owe much to its location on Seraglio Point overlooking the Golden Horn, Istanbul’s ancient harbour. While it’ll take more than a day to explore the historic palace that was built in 1478 by Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror, don’t leave without dropping by the Konyali Lokantasi restaurant, where the terrace seating looks out to the Bosphorus in the direction of Russia.

Pierre Loti Hill

The on-site café has existed since the 18th century – this is reason alone to visit. That it overlooks the expansive Golden Horn from an elevated vantage point (reachable via walking up a hill or riding a cable car) just adds to the experience. Go for the view but linger to explore the numerous historical buildings including a double epigraphy, wooden Kasgari Tekkesi (a religious establishment belonging to Sufis) dating back to 1813.

Sakip Sabanci Museum

Set in a 1920s mansion – known as Atli Kosk (or Horse Mansion) – that was once the residence of an Egyptian prince, this private museum dedicated to calligraphic art and paintings of the Ottoman era is worth travelling to. Situated in the wealthy Emirgan neighbourhood, the mansion’s lush garden and terrace has a view looking towards the Asian side of Istanbul.

Buyuk Camlica Tepesi

If you happen to find yourself on the Asian side of Istanbul, pay a visit to the Buyuk Camlica Tepesi that’s situated 268 metres above sea level. Easily reached by bus or taxi, there’s a number of cafes dotted about the park where a cup of Turkish coffee and a snack can be enjoyed with the sunset.

Galata Tower and the street in the Old Town of Istanbul