THE BIG FREEZE

A beginner’s guide to cruising the southernmost continent.

WORDS BY EMMA CALLEY

Long known as the last frontier on Earth, Antarctica is wilderness at its most raw and beautiful and today, it’s more accessible than ever. Navigate the Drake Passage, spot penguins and follow in the footsteps of the world’s great explorers as you journey across glaciers and ice sheets.

The frozen continent is home to 90% of the world’s ice, a baffling landscape and extraordinary wildlife. The waters around the Antarctic are protected (the Ross Sea is now the world’s largest protected marine area) meaning that the penguins, seals and whales that inhabit the area can hunt, play – and entertain visitors – undisturbed.

For most, Antarctica is a once-in-a-lifetime journey. It is one of the most remote places in the world, making it an alluring destination for intrepid travellers. The best way to get there is by expedition ship, and the best time to see Antarctica is, of course, now: since the early 1990s, Antarctica has lost roughly three trillion tons of ice, and it’s estimated Antarctica’s ice could reach a melting tipping point by mid-century.

They say you have to ‘earn’ the Antarctic, and while the trip may not be easy, after spotting your first iceberg or pod of orca whales, you’ll agree that the journey was completely worthwhile. The great white continent is a land of wonder and unlike anywhere else on the planet.

Here, we answer all your questions about cruising Antarctica.

Sunset in Antarctica

What’s expedition cruising?

Expedition ships are equipped with custom-features to suit the conditions they face, such as stabilisers and ice-breakers. These vessels are designed to go where larger ships cannot, affording the chance to get up close with local wildlife, board a zodiac boat to access the most remote parts of the planet, and learn from experts in the fields of science and sustainability.

On an expedition cruise, the destination is the main event, so while leisure facilities may be limited by the size of the ship, the profound experiences they enable are unforgettable.

How do I get there?

The Argentinean city of Ushuaia – the most southerly city in the world – is the starting spot for most cruises. The ship will then head south towards the white continent past Cape Horn on the southern tip of Chile and through the stormy Drake Passage. Ahead is the Southern Shetland Isles and beyond that is the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.

Will I get seasick?

Known for its unpredictable nature, the Drake Passage commonly presents visitors with two conditions: glass-like seas dubbed the ‘Drake Lake,’ or colossal waves called the ‘Drake Shake.’ No matter which version you encounter, it’s bound to be unforgettable once you’ve reached your destination.

Scientifically, there are several reasons for the passage’s ferocity. It’s where the Atlantic, Pacific and Southern seas all converge and as there is no other landmass on the same latitude, the water flows freely. These factors, in addition to the area's frequent high winds, can make for a rough journey. Pack plenty of seasickness meds, skip the wine at dinner and spend your sea days horizontal; you’ll reach the calm Antarctic Peninsula without too much hassle.

Sunset at Port Charcot, Antarctica

What can I do onboard?

Although shore excursions are one of the most exciting elements of an expedition cruise, there are many other activities to keep passengers entertained. When not on a land excursion, there’s the option to board a tender and cruise around sights of interest with a guide. On board, there’s a gym, wellness centre and hot tub, as well as numerous lectures and activities hosted in the science centre by expert crew members.

The onboard educational program supports the encounters with a range of topics related to the landscape and wildlife. The topics are tailor made according to the region, given by experts in that particular field. In case of noteworthy encounters during the day, these events are summed up with a recap, explaining what guests have seen and why it was special.

Those looking for a bit of extra adventure can purchase optional activities, such as Antarctic kayaking or hiking. It’s best to pre-book to avoid disappointment as numbers are limited, but you can book while on board.

Will I have wifi?

These days, there are few places in the world without internet access and Antarctica is not one of them. For a fee, you can log onto the internet in public areas around the boat, while emergency phone calls can be made via the ship’s satellite phones. Just remember, this is the most remote place on the planet; factors like weather conditions can affect connectivity. Use your time at sea wisely and avoid the internet where possible – news and social media will all be waiting for you at home, but the wildlife won’t be.

An Emperor Penguin with chick at the Emperor Penguin Colony at Snow Hill, Weddell Sea; Penguins at Half Moon Island Antarctica

Everything you need to know about the MS Fridtjof Nansen

How environmentally friendly is the MS Fridtjof Nansen?

The MS Fridtjof Nansen is one of two revolutionary new hybrid additions to the Hurtigruten fleet. Nansen and its sister ship the MS Roald Amundsen both utilise electric propulsion. This state-of-the-art technology, coupled with its advanced construction is expected to cut fuel consumption and CO2- emissions by 20%. Hybrid technology will also enable periods of silent cruising, immersing passengers in their Antarctic surrounds and allowing them to hear distant animal songs or icebergs as they shatter into the ocean.

What are the cabins like on board the MS Fridtjof Nansen?

Unlike many other ships, the MS Fridtjof Nansen does not have any inside cabins, meaning every room has either a balcony or large window. The standard cabins are classified as ‘polar outside’ and are primarily situated on the lower and middle decks; these are bright, comfortable rooms, fitted with a television and ensuite. Arctic superior cabins and suites are available as upgrades for an additional cost.

Can I learn about the destination on board?

At the heart of any Antarctic expedition cruise are the lectures that educate guests on the intricacies of the icy ecosystem, its history and the animals that call it home. The MS Fridtjof Nansen’s edutainment venue, the Nansen Science Centre, hosts daily presentations with their expert crew; times are set in advance, so passengers can plan their days on board. People can also do their own research in the resource library or experiment in the photo lab.

Signpost in Antarctica with directions to other countries; Crabeater seal in Antarctica

How safe is the MS Fridtjof Nansen?

The ship is equipped with extensive safety features and procedures to comply with international maritime law. In addition, Hurtigruten is a member of the Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO) and follows regulations set by Antarctica’s governing body, the IAATO. The vessel itself has lifeboats to accommodate all passengers, a double hull for strength and a Polar Class of 6 (1A+), making it an ice-strengthened expedition ship capable of tackling demanding conditions. On board, passengers will be briefed on safety procedures (as is required by maritime law) and are encouraged to approach the expert crew with any questions.

How will the size of the MS Fridtjof Nansen impact the Antarctic Expedition?

While people may look to smaller expedition ships for their Antarctic expedition, travelling on a larger, yet environmentally conscious ship has many advantages. As well as increased levels of comfort and facilities unmatched by compact vessels, the MS Fridtjof Nansen has been specially designed for efficiency. Its purposebuilt tender pit, for example, enables passengers to board inflatable tender boats quickly and easily, and ensures guests can embark on regular shore excursions. These features and many others ensure the size of the ship isn’t a hindrance to expeditioners.

What are the drinking and dining options on board the MS Fridtjof Nansen?

There are three restaurants offering a wide selection of dining options. Menus in each restaurant are inspired by traditional Nordic fare, as well as popular international dishes, ensuring options to suit all travellers. Aune, the main restaurant, is open throughout the day to allow flexible dining around shore excursions and other activities. There’s also the Fredheim – described as an ‘informal international meeting place’ – and a fine-dining restaurant named Lindstrøm, which offers refined Norwegian-style cuisine. Unlike the other two, Lindstrøm must be booked in advance and dishes at are paid for on an a la carte basis (with the exception of suite guests).

A selection of beer, wine and soft drinks will be available with meals for no additional cost, while coffee and tea are also complementary throughout each day of the Antarctic expedition.

Seals and penguins on the beach of South Georgia, Antarctica; MS Fridtjof Nansen suite; MS Roald Amundsen; Tourists on a Zodiac greet a visiting penguin

SHORE THING

Shore excursions are the highlights of any expedition cruise – here's what you need to know.

Damian Perry, managing director of the Asia-Pacific Region for Hurtigruten, gives us the rundown on shore excursions and what you need to know.

What is a shore excursion?

Shore excursions in Antarctica are your opportunity to get up close with the icy landscape and animals that call it home. Exploring on foot is the best way to observe penguins and other creatures up close in their natural environment.

Prior to embarking on a land excursion, Perry says passengers are briefed on the landing process and what to expect, as well as where to walk and not walk. During these landings, expedition crew are always available to offer assistance and expertise. They guide groups around the sites in search of animals, ice formations or other points of interest, share information and ensure everyone is okay.

Iceberg off coast of Antarctica

How do I get from ship to shore?

The transition from ship to shore runs like clockwork. Upon check-in, travellers are allocated to groups of around 20, depending on the number of people on board, before collecting a badge and equipment for use throughout the trip. The night before each shore excursion, a briefing is held to determine landing times and groups are given an estimated departure for the following day so they can prepare. This information is displayed around the ship and announcements are made every morning alerting passengers to weather conditions or any delays.

Purpose-built inflatable tenders (boats) are used to transport passengers and crew to land.

“The tender boats are constantly rotating,” Perry says. “We operate around 18 boats, so while five groups may be landing in Antarctica, [others] may be cruising, or doing activities such as kayaking.”

When it’s their time, groups are called to the tender pit – where passengers board the tenders – over the speaker and the following group is instructed to get ready.

What will I see during our shore excursions?

Several factors influence what you will see on Antarctic shore excursions. Certain animals are more active in some months, and weather fluctuates throughout.

November’s colder temperatures create pristine conditions. Migratory animals start arriving back to Antarctic waters, the land remains untrampled by visitors and ice formations are still intact. Towards the end of the month, penguins start to mate and lay eggs. As the summer progresses, daylight stretches to almost 20 hours. Late January and early February see many penguin chicks hatch and seal pups born on the pack ice, and whale sightings are more common, too.

Another aspect that differs is the landing sites. Some are home to scientific facilities and old whaling stations, while others are barren and icy. Then, of course, there’s luck. All of these elements impact what you will see on a shore excursion, but rest assured that the crew will facilitate the best possible experience.

Getting up close to the wildlife on a shore excursion

How many shore excursions will I get to do?

Antarctica is a wild place; conditions can turn from serene to windy in a flash. On average, people will experience one landing per day while in the Antarctic Peninsula, but if the weather permits, two may be possible. As safety is the primary concern, weather conditions dictate the daily schedule and programs will be shifted to suit them.

In addition, Hurtigruten abides by rules set by IAATO – the body dedicated to regulating Antarctic tourism and environmental impact – and only allows 100 people on shore per site at one time.

Ultimately, Perry says, expedition crew are passionate explorers themselves and are always looking to get people off the boat and on shore to truly experience the destination.

Walking near a big melting glacier in South Shetland

MAIN IMAGE : Adelie penguins and aquamarine water, Antarctica