VICTORIA: Hit the Gourmet Trail

From local producers to much-loved culinary icons, regional Victoria serves up something for every taste

WORDS BY EMILY HUMPHREY & VISIT VICTORIA

1. Port Fairy

Uncover history in every corner of this winsome fishing village at the end of the Great Ocean Road. The last destination on Victoria's famed Shipwreck Coast, Port Fairy boasts wide streets lined with 19th-century cottages, great Norfolk pines and old stone churches. It’s a lovely place for a stroll, whether it’s a bushwalk at Tower Hill Wildlife Reserve or a walk along the wharf and around Griffiths Island – a haven for short-tailed shearwaters, or mutton birds, in summer. Try to see them at sunset.

In a place steeped in the charm of yesteryear, it’s no wonder that the mostloved eateries are old stalwarts: Merrijig Kitchen (located in Victoria’s oldest inn, with a cosy ambience) is a local institution, with a daily-changing menu based on local produce and their own kitchen garden.

Port Fairy Beach

Local restaurateurs Ryan and Kirstyn Sessions, known for their celebrated, two-hatted fine dining restaurant Fen that closed in 2018, now run ‘fast foodie’ gem Randy’s Burgers – soft shell crab burger, anyone? Meanwhile, Fen is now operating in a series of monthly pop-ups at Port Fairy’s boutique accommodation Drift House, with select dates in March available to book as part of a package.

Shaw River Buffalo Cheese, a local favourite on menus around here, is a family business in nearby Yambuk. Its yoghurt and cheeses are made from the only 100% pure Riverine Buffalo herd in Australia.

Stop by the farmers market (second and fourth Saturday each month) for local homemade, grown or created goods. You’ll find some of these delights from local producers on the menu at Le Crêpe Man of Belfast, a relative newcomer that’s settled in well.

When it’s time for a tipple, head to craft brewery Noodledoof Brewing Co. in Koroit, a stone’s throw from Port Fairy.

Noodledoof Brewing Co. in Koroit

2. Castlemaine

This heritage town boasts many grand relics of its glory days in the mid-19th century as a gold rush town. Now, these beautiful buildings are home to the makers, artists and producers that have put this town on the map for its art, culture and culinary talent.

The Mill complex, on the site of the old Castlemaine Woollen Mill, is bursting with creative endeavour in each of its three precincts – food, artisan and vintage – from furniture makers and metal craftsmen to upcycled goods, an artisan chocolaterie and craft beers and cider on tap. A visit to the Boomtown Winery Co-op makes it easy to see why the town has earned the wry moniker Northcote North. It’s a little bit hipster, in the best way. At micro-roastery Coffee Basics, Das Kaffeehaus feels like a Viennese coffee house, serving up house-made apfelstrudel with, of course, coffee freshly roasted on site with over 60 years of family tradition and skill.

Johnny Baker's in Castlemaine

Pick up some honey from sixthgeneration beekeepers at McDonald Honey, a few km out of town. If you can’t make it there to leave your money in the honesty box, they’re also stocked in outlets around town under the Castlemaine Honey label.

Remember when country pubs had drive-through bottle shops? Well, these days you can grab an almond croissant from Johnny Baker, the small patisserie at the back of the Northern Arts Hotel with two drive-through lanes. Their danishes and tarte tatins are topped with local fruit, whether it’s from nearby Mt Alexander Organic Fruit Farm or customers’ backyard trees. Oh, and this former country pub is now a beautiful guesthouse.

3. Daylesford

Daylesford’s flourishing food and wine scene and idyllic landscapes make it a weekender favourite for the city crowd. This proud gourmet region is home to enduring Victorian icons like the Lake House, a celebrated restaurant that also includes accommodation, a day spa and cooking school. The Sunday market at the railway station serves up the usual eclectic bric a brac, craft and antiques, plus a farmers market section where you can pick up artisan sourdough bread from Two Fold Bakehouse or a refreshing drop from Daylesford Cider, made using English heritage cider apples grown organically on their property. Catch the heritage train to Passing Clouds winery, in the nearby village of Musk, for their la famiglia-style lunch or a tasting at the cellar door.

The Lake House

There are plenty of opportunities to get amongst it with small growers and local producers. At Spring Hill Peony Farm, a sprawling 28-hectare farm between Daylesford and Kyneton, you can pick your own blooms during the much-awaited, but short-lived, peony season in late November. Jonai Farms & Meatsmiths, self-described ethicurean farmers who butcher, cook and cure on farm, run workshops, including salami days in winter.

Passing Clouds Station

Ten minutes north of Daylesford lies Lavandula Swiss Italian Farm, where you can explore the grounds, take a tour of the original homestead and enjoy lavender-inspired dishes in the trattoria.

Lake House chef with a fresh catch

4. Bairnsdale

Set along the wide, slow-flowing banks of the Mitchell River, Bairnsdale is a town of rich heritage and the gateway to Gippsland’s natural beauties. See firsthand the thriving creative community at East Gippsland Art Gallery, wander the shops and find some local treasures or head down

Gippsland’s fertile area is known as a ‘food bowl’ boasting a bounty of delectable produce, so it’s little wonder you’ll find earnest food venues with a strong affinity for the local grub: try lunch at Northern Ground or dinner at The Loft, in a converted late-1800s stable. David Lucke’s Fresh Food Market is a great spot to fill the esky with locally sourced produce to create some fantastic meals at home.

Taking in the view at Lightfoot & Sons Winery

The Main Hotel is the oldest pub in town but it’s been given new life by its young owner, a baker by trade, and patrons are delighted with quality pub meals of generous proportions.

At family-owned boutique winery Lightfoot & Sons, relax on the deck with the views over a glass of pinot noir or chardonnay and a Taste of East Gippsland platter – think Maffra cheese and Seasalt sourdough.

5. Rutherglen

Discover the taste of history with a fresh palate in Rutherglen and take in stunning gold rush streetscapes, explore the surrounding vineyards, and enjoy outdoor fun in the nearby lakes and rivers. Join the Pedal to Produce cycle trail to sample the very best wine, fruit and produce at local orchards and wineries. The Rutherglen leg melds the town’s rich history and personality with farm-fresh produce and world-class wine. No need to lug your bike up there – you can hire at the Rutherglen Wine Experience (there are even two tandem bikes). Visitors won't go thirsty in this important wine region, home to world-beating fortified wines, robust reds and crisp white wines since the early 1800s.

Jones Winery & Vineyard

Pedal To Produce is an easy ride that can be done in less than an hour and a half, but it’s likely you’ll want to take your time tasting your way through this luscious part of high country. At Jones Winery and Vineyard, you’ll find fifth-generation winemaker Mandy Jones crafting fine drops from grapes grown by her brother, Arthur. The restaurant here has a distinct French country kitchen vibe; open for lunch Thursday to Sunday. Not a cyclist? Visit revitalised cellar doors including All Saints Estate, Morris of Rutherglen and Campbells Wines and meet fourth and fifth generation winemakers drawing on family tradition and modern techniques to keep Rutherglen on the map.

6. Mansfield

Uncover a nature lover's paradise in Mansfield and soak up the stunning Alpine scenery. Options are plentiful for adventurous travellers. Gallop from the summit of nearby Mount Buller to relive moments from The Man from Snowy River, making sure to stop by Craig’s Hut atop Mt Stirling. Enjoy boating or fishing at Lake Eildon or go cycling along Delatite River Trail.

With a wide selection of cafes and fine dining opportunities, settle in and discover the local culinary scene. From farm gates, like Howes Creek Farm for boutique smallgoods and charcuterie products, to hip eateries like The Fields and craft beer at Social Bandit Brewing Co, all bases are covered.

Find superb local coffee – try Mansfield Coffee Merchant for a seriously good brew – and visit regional vineyards that produce rich, weighty chardonnay, crisp riesling and superb sparkling wine from Ros Ritchie Wines and Delatite Winery.

There’s plenty of room to gindulge around here, too. Swiftcrest Distillery is a small family operation set on a very sustainable, zero-waste, 120-acre farm that is completely off-grid. Their stills are heated by a wood-fired steam boiler using deadfall timber gathered on the property. High quality, artisan spirits are made using organic and biodynamic ingredients sourced from local farmers. Stop in for a (prebooked) distillery tour.

BUY FROM THE BUSH

Can’t hit the road? Get these goodies delivered to your door

WEYHILL FARM

You’ll always have Australian garlic on hand with this dehydrated garlic grown on a family-owned farm in Ranceby, South Gippsland. They also make a range of garlic salts with their farm-grown herbs, preserved in pure Australian sea salt.

GOORAMADDA OLIVES

With a slew of awards to its name, this Rutherglen olive grove offers a superb tasting experience with its estate-grown extra virgin olive oils (EVOO) and other gourmet items. The online shop is the next best thing and even ships other local goodies, like cheese and honey.

LONG LANE CAPERS

Grown on about 200 acres on the flats of Broken River near Mansfield, these capers are hand-picked and preserved in Murray River salt. Do try to make it to their farm in Victorian high country to pick your own capers one day, the season runs from December until March.

THE COTTAGE HERBALIST

Caroline Parker blends tea and plant medicine from a home studio in the Wombat State Forest. Choose from an array of blended tea and tisanes to boost wellbeing, with names like Soothe and Love Potion.

CABOSSE AND FEVE CHOCOLATES

Husband and wife team Thomas Vandaele and Freya Schellhorn produce handcrafted, small-batch chocolates from their Castlemaine kitchen and shop, while ensuring that farmers are paid fairly for their beans. Plenty of vegan options here.

TRUFFLE PADDOCK

An affordable luxury, this extensive range of truffle products contain real French black winter truffles sourced either from their Gippsland farm, or elsewhere in Australia. In addition to sauces, oil, dressings, salts and honeys available year round, you can order fresh truffles in winter.